Chiang Mai: 5 temples to discover outside the old city

Chiang Mai, the rose of northern Thailand as it is nicknamed, does not escape the profusion of temples of all kinds scattered here and there. If I specify "outside the old city", it is because I will not talk about the temples located in the central square, limited by the canals and the remains of the old wall.

I will not talk about Doi Suthep either, probably the most famous temple in Chiang Mai and yet well outside the city, but I already mention it when mentioning the 5 reasons to visit Doi Suthep (which is not just a temple and no, the number 5 is not my lucky number…).

The idea here is to present you 5 temples, all located on the outskirts of the old city, within a radius of 10 km max. And because there are many temples, they should have a certain charm that distinguishes them from the others, to be worth the time to dedicate a day to take a look.

1- Wat Si Suphan: the silver temple

If I just say "Wat Si Suphan", this name will probably mean nothing to you (nor to me before writing this article!), on the other hand, if I say Silver Temple, you may have heard of this particular temple, located just south of the old city of Chiang Mai.

The silver temple.

The temple as a whole was founded as early as the 16th century. But its main attraction, an Ubosot (main ordination hall) entirely covered and decorated with silver plates, is more recent.

It was following a series of renovations and redevelopments of the temple, undertaken by the abbot of the temple in 2004, that this goldsmith's work came to light and continues to evolve today. You can also see craftsmen at work in a shop located on the street just in front of the entrance to the temple.

A craftsman on the street leading to the temple.

If we find the traditional golden Buddha statue inside the Ubosot, the motifs are nonetheless varied and original, we come across an effigy of the king as symbolized on a 1000 Baht note as well as a small flying saucer (fantasy of the artist?).

The structure as a whole takes up the typical Lanna architecture, but also its culture, because sorry ladies, but access to the interior of this building will be forbidden to you (Basically this is linked to having periods... It is said that this can damage the temple as much as the woman).

The Buddha inside the silver building.

Note that between 17:30 p.m. and 21 p.m., the temple organizes "monk chats" sessions on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Particularly known and possible during the day at Wat Chedi Luang, these short interviews with the monks allow you to discuss, exchange with them, you can ask questions relating to the life of a monk, meditation or even other subjects more focused on Lanna and Thai culture in general.

Paid entry : 50 Baht
Opening times : 06:00 – 21:00 (there are indeed night openings with special lighting)
Address: 100 Wulai Road

2- Wat Suan Dok

Also known as Wat Buppharam, this temple, whose name translates to "the temple of the flower garden", is located along Doi Suthep Road (it is not the road going up the famous mountain, although it goes all the way to its foot), 1 km from Suan Dok Gate, the western entrance to the old city.

Wat Suan Dok, built in the late 14th century on a garden belonging to the then King of Chiang Mai, was originally intended to accommodate and provide refuge for an important monk arriving from Sukhothai. The temple contains several structures of historical significance. These include the main pagoda containing the Buddha's relics, in Sri Lankan style with a square base, and a large open (unwalled) Wiharn (assembly hall).

For me, its main attraction lies in the garden of white mausoleums, a royal cemetery housing the ashes of the former rulers and nobles of Chiang Mai (among others, the ashes of King Kawila, who reigned in the early 19th century).

The multiple white mausoleums of Wat Suan Dok.

The open hall (without walls) of Wat Suan Dok.

The airport is not far.

This temple is closely linked to the one overlooking the city at Doi suthep. The latter was founded following the death of a white elephant that climbed the mountain, carrying a sacred relic of Buddha on its back. The relic in question was previously to be enshrined in the pagoda of Wat Suan Dok, but it broke in two.

As you can guess, one half is the one that is today at Doi Suthep, the other being here, at Wat Suan Dok.

Free admission
Opening times : 06:00 – 22:00 (normally accessible 24 hours a day)
Address : 139 Suthep Road

3- Wat Umong (Suan Phutthatham)

This is a truly atypical temple, not only for Chiang Mai but for all of Thailand, because to this day, it is the only temple of its kind that I have been able to visit. Its particularity? A network of tunnels, located under the main chedi, which serve as places of prayer.

Wat Umong.

These tunnels, which gave the temple its name (umong in Thai meaning tunnel) were once covered with superb frescoes with floral motifs and dominated by the color red.

Ordered by King Meng Rai over 700 years ago, shortly after the founding of his new capital, Chiang Mai, Wat Umong was intended to accommodate a respected monk, Therachan, who was tired of the noisy environment of the city and could not meditate in peace. Thus located on the outskirts of the city, surrounded by a forest, the monk could finally find peace and solitude in order to devote himself to meditation.

Prayer in one of the tunnels of Wat Umong.

A monk at Wat Umong.

This is still true today and the temple remains what is called here a "forest temple", a name given to temples that focus on meditation while being isolated by the calm of a forest. Wat Umong is however only 4 km from the central square of the old city. Situated at the foot of the Doi Suthep mountain, one almost forgets that the end of the runway of the city's airport is only 1 km away.

There is a certain tranquility there. However, the temple has come a long way, as it was abandoned during the time of King Tilokarat in 1487 and was not reinvested until 1940, almost 500 years later!

Restored in 1948 and later reopened as a meditation center, the place lends itself well to this. In front of the tunnels are a group of statuettes and remains of larger statues such as ancient Buddha heads, deposited by devotees of the temple, to save these relics from abandonment.

Another notable structure is a copy of an Ashoka Pillar that dates back to the same period as the temple's founding, the 13th century. The Ashoka Pillar refers to the Indian king Ashoka, who sent monks throughout Southeast Asia and even Europe in the 3rd century BC to spread Buddhism. These pillars were erected to bear witness to the early traces of this religion.

Copy of Ashoka's Pillar.

On the side of the site, there is an artificial pond filled with many fish that can be fed and surrounded by forest, this area serves as a small zoo, with ducks, birds, but also deer, which the monks as well as visitors can feed.

The small lake next to the temple.

Free admission
Opening times : 06:00 am - 18:00 pm
Address : Soi Ban Mai Lang Mo 1 (also known as Soi Wat Umong)

4- Wat Phra That Doi Kham

This temple, whose name means temple of the golden mountain, can certainly be called the little brother of Phra That Doi Suthep, as it has the same characteristics. Namely a temple containing relics of the Buddha (hence the term Phra That), a beautiful view of Chiang Mai and an ancient temple perched on a hill.

The courtyard of Wat Phra That Doi Kham.

Wat Phra That is rarely visited by foreigners, but is very popular with locals. However, it has a much older history than its "neighbor" stealing the show. Indeed, according to some sources, the foundation of this temple dates back to the 687th century! More precisely in the year 600 AD, XNUMX years before the creation of the Lanna kingdom in this region!

It is from this period that its chedi dates, surrounded by a courtyard and a cloister, similar to Doi Suthep. The temple was gradually abandoned and neglected. The chedi was damaged by heavy rains in 1966, revealing a large number of Buddha statuettes inside. It was then that the villagers mobilized to find funding to restore the chedi and restore its letters of nobility to this small mountain temple with a forgotten history.

Under the cloister, you will find the classic Buddha statues in various positions. It is a very venerated temple and you can attend a ballet of prayer and an impressive number of white flowers laid in wreaths in front of an altar protected by a wooden roof.

Outside the chedi area, you can admire the richly decorated ubosot with the traditional stair banisters adorned with 2 Nagas, here combined with a mythological aquatic creature, called Makara. Finally, and you can't miss it, you will see near the ubosot a giant 17 m Buddha statue, just before entering the cloister surrounding the chedi.

The view of Chiang Mai from Wat Phra That Doi Kham.

The 17 m tall Buddha.

The ubosot of Wat Phra That Doi Kham.

Regarding the view, we see Chiang Mai certainly less high up, but with the mountains in the background, rice fields in the foreground and the Royal Park pavilion which I will talk about just after.

Free admission
Opening times : 06:00 am - 18:00 pm
Address : 108 Moo 3, Tambon Mae Hia, Amphoe Mueang, Chiang Mai

5- Royal Park Rajapruek

The most recent of all those listed here, this "temple" is actually the "centerpiece" of an entire garden, built in 2006 to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the accession to the throne of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX, died in 2016), it also marked his 80th year the following year.

The path leading to the royal pavilion with Wat Phra That Doi Kham perched on the hill above.

The park was then called at the beginning "International Exposition for His Majesty the King", the king having greatly developed agriculture in the country, the Royal Park aims to be a research center in the field of culture and agriculture.

The garden is divided into several areas. One such area is the Thai Tropical Garden, which showcases the diversity of Thai tropical plants. Another area is the "King's Gardens", where Thai government officers and private sectors showcase their garden arrangements that followed and made use of His Majesty's theory on agricultural and gardening management.

Depending on the season, you can see a large number of plants and flowers there. The entrance already sets the tone, with a very wide path, bordered by hedges and well-trimmed pines. At the end of this path, you can admire the Ho Kham Luang royal pavilion (with just above the Wat Phra That Doi Kham!), which, although not technically a temple (hence my quotation mark above), takes up all the architectural elements.

The park hosts many events, especially for the New Year or the famous Loy Krathong in November. But the most important is probably the flower festival from December to February, the best time to visit the site. I was able to visit it for free at "the time" (in November 2015) after simply asking for my ticket in Thai... But I admit that paying 200 Baht to visit a garden requires a real interest in botany and flower gardens.

Paid entry : 200 Baht (adult) / 150 Baht (child) – includes tram service to get around the site
Opening times : 08:00 am - 18:00 pm
Address : 334 Mae Hia, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50100