Phetchaburi is one of those cities and regions that remain relatively unknown. Yet, located only two hours from Bangkok, it could easily be the subject of a day trip, just like Kanchanaburi, which some people don't hesitate to visit and return to, even though the city is further from the capital.
Most travelers head straight to Hua Hin or the islands further south, without stopping. Let's be clear, Phetchaburi is better suited to those who like to take their time and explore a country in more depth. But if you also enjoy venturing off the beaten path, it definitely has its charms, even if some of the tourist spots are quite well-known.
Here is a summary of what you can find there!
1- On the road to the south
The first, and arguably the best, reason is that you don't even need to make a detour to visit this city. Phetchaburi is simply on the main road leading to southern Thailand.
It can therefore very well serve as a first step before, for example, going to Chumphon or Surat Thani, if you then go to Ko Tao or Ko Samui in the Gulf of Thailand.
Obviously, this will be most interesting if you have some flexibility in your route, instead of heading straight south.
But as I mentioned in the introduction, Phetchaburi is also very close to Bangkok, only 130 km away. This makes it an easy destination for a short break from the capital.
2- Khao Luang Cave
It's one of Phetchaburi's most famous attractions. The very first time I went, I parked in a small lot at the bottom of the hill and walked to the site (about a 300-meter uphill climb), since you couldn't drive directly up to the parking lot next to the cave entrance. I don't know if it was related to the presence of monkeys in the area.
If the road is still closed, a shuttle bus is available for 25 baht if you don't want to walk. Otherwise, if car access is permitted again, you'll arrive directly at the upper parking lot, where there are a few souvenir shops.
You will then be greeted by a gaggle of small monkeys swarming around the cave. They are not very shy, so avoid upsetting them or attracting them with food.
For a long time, visiting this cave remained free, but having not returned recently, it would seem that a small contribution is now requested.
Please check during your visit :
- Access has long required leaving your vehicle at the bottom and taking a shuttle, but it now seems possible to drive up with your vehicle.
- The visit remains very inexpensive, with a small entrance fee of around 10 baht per person according to some sources.
Nevertheless, after a few steps to reach the top of this small hill, one finds oneself descending via a stone staircase leading into the cavity. The cavity itself remains relatively small, but precisely because of this, its interest lies not in its size.
Because, as is often the case in Thailand, the interest lies not just in walking around in a "simple" cave, but in the discovery of a real place of worship, directly linked to the presence of the royal palace located on another hill 3 km away.
This place was indeed popularized by King Mongkut (Rama IV), who reigned between 1851 and 1868 and made this cave a privileged place to practice meditation and study Buddhism.
It is said to contain no less than 170 Buddha statues, distributed in a cave composed of three chambers, the main one reaching 27 m in height.
The large Buddha statue visible in this main hall was added by Rama V in honor of his predecessors Rama III and Rama IV. In a corner, you will also see a reclining Buddha statue 5 meters long.
The other highlight of the place is its skylight, which lets in light. At the right time (depending on the season, around 11 a.m. to noon), a magnificent ray of light bathes this space, further enhancing the beauty of this place of worship.
Besides the main room, the phenomenon can also be seen in another intermediate room, also pierced in the ceiling, where the light then illuminates at the right time a white chedi placed at the right angle.
Exploring further, you come across a steep staircase leading out behind the cave, but I didn't explore it any further. I know there are other structures on the hill, but again, I didn't go beyond the cave.
3- Khao Wang Summer Palace (Phra Nakhon Khiri)
Khao Wang literally means "palace hill." King Mongkut (Rama IV), having fallen in love with this region, decided to build a summer palace there. And it was on the summit of this 100-meter hill that he had it built.
In fact, more than just a palace, it is a whole complex of buildings that one finds here: a temple with its pagodas / chedis, royal reception rooms, a museum and other constructions forming a historical park, the Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park.
Some buildings are in a classical Thai style, while others are heavily influenced by the European neo-classical style (the site being completed in 1860, contacts with Europe were frequent at that time), or even by Chinese elements.
Beyond that, another of the site's attractions is its location overlooking the city, making the visit worthwhile for the view it offers. This view is spread across the three ridges that form the hill.
Otherwise, just like at the cave, expect to be greeted by monkeys. Upon arriving at the parking lot, we noticed the presence of crocodile plush toys on the roofs of some cars, as the monkeys are supposed to be afraid of them… (apparently it keeps at least 40% of them away).
As we climbed the hill, we passed several of them going about their business (it's nature, after all!), a monk coming back down, and beautiful green spaces bordering the paved path. But apart from that, it was very peaceful!
Western Ridge
This is where you'll arrive if you take the cable car to the summit (40 baht return, payable separately from the entrance ticket). King Mongkut's palace is located on the westernmost point, where the ruler had his personal quarters.
The Phra Thi Nang Phet Phum Phairot Throne Hall , the largest building in the palace, houses a bedroom, a dining room, and a dressing room. Inside are displayed personal items from that era.
Another important building is the Phra Thi Nang Pramot Mahaisawan , which is said to have served as the queen's personal quarters.
It also features a prang, the Phra Thi Nang Wetchayan Prasat , a style of construction typical of Khmer architecture in Cambodia, but which is regularly found in the temples of Siam, particularly in the 18th and 19th centuries.
The Ho Chatchawan Wiang Chai is a tower used by King Mongkut as an observatory. The king was very interested in science, innovation, and astronomy, to the point of being nicknamed the "Father of Thai Science".
Surrounding it are several small buildings that served as stables, quarters for guards and servants, and a kitchen. The palace was also protected by a fort at each corner of the complex.
Central ridge
On the central peak stands a 40-meter-high white chedi called Phra That Chom Phet . It is believed to house relics of the Buddha. Due to its central location, this ridge is also an excellent vantage point for admiring the royal palace on the western peak and the temple on the eastern peak in the distance.
Eastern Ridge
This is where you'll find the temple with the rather unoriginal name, Wat Phra Kaew Noi . It's normal if this name sounds familiar: it's the same as that of the royal temple in the Grand Palace in Bangkok , with the distinction of Noi , which means "small".
However, its overall design differs from its famous namesake in the capital, notably with a very recognizable red pagoda, visible from afar.
– Note that if you are interested in old palaces, there is another one in Phetchaburi, the Phra Ram Ratchaniwet Palace (also known as Ban Puen Palace). Its construction began in 1909. Ordered by King Rama V, he unfortunately never had the opportunity to stay there since he died in 1910 while the construction was completed in 1916.
4- The temples of Phetchaburi
Of course, it would be a shame to visit a city in Thailand without seeing some temples. Phetchaburi has its fair share of interesting monasteries.
Wat Mahathat Worawihan
First of all, the ancient royal temple Wat Mahathat Worawihan is undoubtedly one of those not to be missed.
Its central Khmer-style tower (called a prang in this case) stands out from the other more "traditional" chedis. Its construction dates back to the Sukhothai kingdom period (so at least 700 to 800 years ago!).
Inside one of the buildings, you can see beautiful murals, a little damaged by the ravages of time at the time of our visit, but which at least testify to their antiquity.
Even in the evening, worshippers still come to pray there, which always gives a pleasant atmosphere to this kind of visit.
Wat Yai Suwannaram
If you were to see only two temples, in addition to the previous one, I would recommend at least Wat Yai Suwannaram , a 3rd class royal temple dating from the Ayutthaya period.
As in many temples, there is a whole array of dogs roaming around the courtyard, much to the delight of the lady.
More specifically, the temple consists of a beautiful group of buildings, admittedly quite classic in their layout, but each of which stands out in one way or another.
First there is an ubosot with, again, beautiful murals, and above all a long teakwood sermon hall on stilts, very photogenic, housing an altar with a small Buddha statue (take off your shoes as always to access it).
The other interesting architectural feature of Wat Yai Suwannaram is located in the middle of a pool, itself placed behind the temple.
There you'll find a traditional library, called a Ho Trai (หอไตร), designed to house sacred manuscripts, generally from the Buddhist canon known as the Tripitaka. This type of library takes the form of a wooden pavilion, typically built on stilts over a pond. The water naturally protects the manuscripts from insects and also helps to reduce the risk of fire.
Overall, it's a pretty nice temple visually, which we visited a bit hastily because we arrived at sunset, but this allowed us to see a pretty pink sky above the structures and we weren't bothered by the crowds (although I doubt it's crowded during the day anyway, except for a special event of course).
A few other temples
Another suggestion, if you enjoy these walks in monasteries, is to visit the Wat Yang complex . This one also has a fairly classic set of buildings, but stands out for its beautifully crafted wooden structure and, once again, a library built on the water, blending the old on the upper part and the modern on its lower floor.
During our visit, on that hot day, we came across novices using water jugs to cool off while doing their laundry. It's the kind of everyday scene, both simple and amusing, that we enjoy observing.
I can also mention Wat Phlapplachai , not far from our guesthouse, with its low walls featuring some street art that perfectly reflects the spirit of the temples (paintings of dogs!), while remaining quite unexpected in such a place. There's other street art in the area, so keep your eyes peeled.
I haven't seen it myself, but I wanted to mention it: there is also Wat Sanam Brahm , a little further away (1 km, that's fine), which seems worth a look, especially for its old T-shaped building, which is rather unusual.
5- The old wooden houses of Phetchaburi
This is clearly a big part of the city's charm. And in Thailand, there aren't that many cities where I find this kind of old-world atmosphere. Phetchaburi still has many old wooden houses, some of which are a hundred years old.
This is all the more rare given that, in most urban areas, older dwellings are gradually being replaced by more modern structures. This is particularly striking in Bangkok, even though the capital still retains some older communities (I'm thinking of Kudee Jin or Chinatown ).
Walking through the streets of Phetchaburi gives a slight feeling of stepping back in time or, at the very least, that pleasant impression of rediscovering an older Thailand, perhaps even more discreet, and above all less transformed.
This is especially true in the narrow streets around the river. If you wish, there is a quick loop you can take starting from Wat Mahathat Worawihan, where a bridge allows you to cross the river that cuts the city from north to south.
You can then go to the municipal market ( Muang Phetchaburi Municipal Food Market ) and stroll around the area before reaching another market, advertised as Phetchaburi Riverside Old Market , which runs along the river and faces Wat Phlapplachai.
From there, you can either take the next road bridge to cross back to the other side of the river, or cross directly from the Riverside Old Market via the newly added pedestrian bridge. This will take you directly to the street where the hotel I recommend at the end of this article is located.
Since I'm on the subject of markets, note that if you visit Phetchaburi on a Saturday, and only on that day, you will find a night market along Pa Nich Charoen Street between 17pm and 21pm.
Returning to the wooden houses, they contribute greatly to the charm of the town, as do the small shops they still house and the local life that one encounters along the streets.
Phetchaburi will, I think, show you that the title "Land of Smiles" still holds true. I certainly hope you will enjoy wandering through it as much as I enjoyed strolling and photographing some everyday scenes.
Phetchaburi at night
Once night falls, Phetchaburi, which isn't particularly hectic during the day, becomes genuinely peaceful. But it's still Thailand: there are still a few lively areas, with street vendors offering all sorts of delicious things, from simple bowls of noodles to spicy salads.
However, there aren't that many restaurants open in the evening. I do, however, have a good recommendation to share with you, exceptionally, at the end of this article.
But Phetchaburi is also famous for its desserts. Admittedly, this falls into the specific specialties of Thailand, because apart from sticky rice and banana pancakes (the famous roti), it can't be said that Thai cuisine excels in this area.
One of these shops, Nok Noi Thai Dessert , is practically a local institution, or at least its owner's success seems undeniable, judging by the numerous photos of celebrities who have sampled her specialties. Jitima had stopped there during our first visit to Phetchaburi, and she made sure to return on our last trip.
Moreover, during this express return to Phetchaburi — a stop on the way south, precisely — we took a short digestive stroll around the street of our hotel.
Besides the dessert shop, we passed by the red-lit facade of Wat Phlapplachai, where there is a Chinese Buddha, and then by the entrance of Wat Mahathat Worawihan, also highlighted by its night lights.
We finally reached the river opposite the temple, before returning to the alleyway of our hotel. Opposite, on the other side of Wat Phlapplachai, a small area has now been redeveloped into a garden, the Sunthorn Phu Memorial Park , where a statue of the great Thai poet Sunthorn Phu stands.
This is also where the new pedestrian bridge mentioned above is located, which allows access to the old riverside market.
6- Seaside: beaches and whale watching
The town of Phetchaburi isn't exactly a seaside resort, as it's not directly on the coast. The nearest beaches are about 25 km away, which is quite reasonable. So, if you have a car, there's nothing stopping you from taking a short trip there.
The Phetchaburi coastline
So obviously, don't expect the famous white sand beaches and turquoise water that Thailand is known for here. No. As on much of the northwest coast of the Gulf of Thailand, the water is often murkier, or even downright brownish as soon as the sea is a little rough.
The advantage is that you generally won't be bothered by crowds. Unfortunately, it's not always very clean, as you can see in my next photo, but that also depends a lot on the time of year.
In general, the seaside here offers a taste of Thailand as we love it, living at its own pace, with people going about their business peacefully. Here you'll find simple, sometimes more rugged spots that offer a different perspective on the Phetchaburi coast.
There is, however, a small exception with Cha-am, the best known and most developed seaside resort on the province's coast, located about forty kilometers south of the city.
Because of its proximity to Hua Hin , Cha-am is more touristy, but it remains a nice stop to eat by the sea, which we never failed to do on our way back up to Bangkok from Nakhon Si Thammarat (where we go regularly).
Salt marshes
If you are traveling independently, I suggest you leave the main road (Route 35) and turn left onto Route 4012 when arriving from Bangkok. You will then travel along a pleasant road for a while, passing through salt marshes.
It's not necessarily a must-see attraction that alone justifies the trip, but it fully contributes to the character of the local landscape, a blend of sea, human activity, and the vast, flat expanses typical of this part of the Gulf of Thailand. The scenery reminds me a bit of the Vendée region of France, which I know well from having spent a lot of time in Noirmoutier. It's very photogenic, and you don't necessarily expect to find this kind of scenery in Thailand.
Along the coast, you'll also see the classic mangroves, where you might spot a few monkeys. The landscape is reminiscent of Samut Songkhram, the province where the Amphawa and Tha Kha floating markets are located , about 80 km from Bangkok. Salt marshes are also visible directly from the main road heading south from Bangkok.
On another visit, we also really enjoyed a short impromptu stop shortly before arriving in town, having lunch late in the afternoon on a boat serving as a restaurant.
Only Thais here, mangroves right next door, a few monkeys frolicking peacefully nearby, while the fishing boats went out to sea: a good glimpse of a more local coastline, with an activity still largely focused on fishing.
The whales of Chao Samran
Something few people know: it's possible to go whale watching here. Yes, you read that right. And I'm not talking about the whale sharks that delight divers in Koh Tao or elsewhere in the south of the country. I'm talking specifically about Bryde's whales , also known as tropical fin whales.
This cetacean, depending on whether it is male or female, can reach between 12 and 15 meters in length and weigh 16 to 18 tons. They are regularly observed in the northern Gulf of Thailand, around the coasts of the provinces of Phetchaburi, Samut Songkhram, and even as far as Samut Sakhon, near Bangkok.
They can sometimes be seen in groups of around twenty individuals, not counting the Irrawaddy dolphins which may also visit the area.
A boat trip isn't always straightforward, as the activity is limited and now better regulated, following an uncontrolled surge in popularity that had started to drive people away. Chao Samran beach can serve as a starting point; in fact, that's why I went there, hoping to take this boat trip.
You can contact an association called Chom Whales, which regularly organizes outings during the season, from June to December, but booking isn't easy because their former website is no longer active. So, here's their Instagram instead: https://www.instagram.com/chomwhales/
Note that this is a fairly expensive activity: it costs around 2,000 baht per person. While there, I tried to find a local to take me on a trip. They offered to take us on a fishing boat for 4,000 baht for the whole boat, even though there were only two of us.
It was consistent with the advertised price of 2,000 baht per person, but at the time, I wasn't expecting that price, so it was beyond my budget. I had to decline, much to my regret… However, it could be an interesting option if you are a group of four or five.
As I mentioned, it's more regulated these days, so it's not certain that you can still improvise this on the spot at the last minute. It's best to find out more beforehand if this type of activity interests you.
7- Kaeng Krachan National Park
If you're in the area, Phetchaburi is a good starting point for visiting Kaeng Krachan National Park, about 50 km away. It's a relatively undiscovered park, partly because it's less well-connected and developed than the more famous Khao Yai National Park near Bangkok.
However, it boasts a large and diverse fauna. It is particularly renowned for the observation of numerous birds but also butterflies (more than 400 species!).
You can also encounter, among other things, various mammals including monkeys such as langurs and gibbons, porcupines, civets, giant black squirrels, but also, for the luckiest, there is a population of tigers as well as black panthers.
There are also waterfalls, like any national park, but one — Thor Thip — is accessible only with a ranger and the other — Pa La-U Waterfall — is in another area of the park further south, and is best visited from Hua Hin.
I haven't visited it myself yet, but it's still on my "to-do" list. More information is available on this website (in English ).
How to get to Phetchaburi
From Bangkok, the fastest route is by road: the journey takes approximately 2 hours depending on traffic. By public transport, it is possible to reach Phetchaburi by bus from Bangkok's southern terminal ( Sai Tai Mai ). There are also vans departing from the Mo Chit area (Chatuchak Coach Station – Mo Chit 2), not far from Bangkok's new main train station.
However, fares and schedules can change, so it's best to check before you travel. Generally speaking, the journey remains affordable, with vans costing around 180 baht and trains that can be significantly cheaper or more expensive depending on the class chosen.
If you prefer the train, it's also possible to get there by this mode of transport, as Phetchaburi is located on the railway line heading south. Depending on the type of train chosen, the journey generally takes between a little over 2 hours and up to 4 hours if it stops at the numerous intermediate stations.
Long-distance departures now take place from Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal , the current main train station in Bangkok.
On site, you will find, as usual, some tuk-tuks, motorcycle taxis for short trips, and still some rickshaws (manual tricycles), rarer but still present.
I'll leave you with the search tool if you prefer to plan ahead (always useful during the holiday season):
Where to stay in Phetchaburi
We had chosen the White Monkey Guesthouse , very well located, right in the heart of the old town, not far from the canal, and for a very reasonable price (from €12!).
We went back a few years later (I'd forgotten we'd already been!) and it was just as good, so I still recommend it. They've since added an outdoor terrace, covered the parking lot, and even expanded the premises by buying the neighboring houses. This allowed them to create a rather nice open space upstairs, like a terrace for relaxing.
Alternatively, literally right opposite the White Monkey, a house has since been converted into a guest house: the A+ Hometel , with a view of the river from its terrace, for a similar price.
Restaurant recommendation
Normally, I never include this section in my articles. I've already mentioned the reason, but to put it simply, restaurants, even successful ones, can change address, ownership, and therefore sometimes quality, or even simply close permanently. In short, it's complicated to keep track of all of this over time.
And generally speaking, everyone will have different tastes, so I've never really enjoyed recommending restaurants for all these reasons.
But there are always exceptions. And in Phetchaburi, I have an address that falls into this category. Recommended by our hotel, this restaurant is located just down the street, discreetly tucked away next to the bridge.
Rabieng Rimnam is an intimate restaurant, housed in a century-old building on the riverbank. We almost couldn't get a table because they have very few tables, but the reason I wanted to include it in this article is that, beyond its very local setting, the food was excellent and reasonably priced.
For my part, I had the chicken cashew nut, quite simply the best I've had in Thailand. And I should mention that I've been enjoying it regularly for 20 years.
Have you heard of Phetchaburi? Have you been there?
