Phetchaburi: 7 good reasons to discover the city and its region

– Note that if you are interested in old palaces, there is another one in Phetchaburi, the Phra Ram Ratchaniwet Palace (also known as Ban Puen Palace). Its construction began in 1909. Ordered by King Rama V, he unfortunately never had the opportunity to stay there since he died in 1910 while the construction was completed in 1916.

4- The temples of Phetchaburi

Of course, it would be a shame to visit a city in Thailand without seeing some temples. Phetchaburi has its fair share of interesting monasteries.

Wat Mahathat Worawihan

First, the old royal temple Wat Mahathat Worawihan is undoubtedly one of those not to be missed.

Its central Khmer-style tower (which is called a prang (in this case) stands out from other, more "traditional" chedis. Its construction dates back to the period of the Kingdom of Sukhothai (so at least 700 to 800 years!).

Inside one of the buildings, you can see beautiful murals, a little damaged by the ravages of time at the time of our visit, but which at least testify to their antiquity.

Even in the evening, worshippers still come to pray there, which always gives a pleasant atmosphere to this kind of visit.

Wat Yai Suwannaram

If you only have time to see two temples, in addition to the previous one, I recommend at least the Wat Yai Suwannaram, a 3rd-class royal temple dating from the Ayutthaya period.

As in many temples, there is a whole array of dogs roaming around the courtyard, much to the delight of the lady.

More specifically, the temple consists of a beautiful group of buildings, admittedly quite classic in their layout, but each of which stands out in one way or another.

First there is an ubosot with, again, beautiful murals, and above all a long teakwood sermon hall on stilts, very photogenic, housing an altar with a small Buddha statue (take off your shoes as always to access it).

The other interesting architectural feature of Wat Yai Suwannaram is located in the middle of a pool, itself placed behind the temple.

It houses a traditional library, called Ho Trai (หอไตร), designed to house sacred manuscripts, generally from the Buddhist canon known as the Tripitaka. This type of library takes the form of a wooden pavilion, typically built on stilts over a pond. The water naturally protects the manuscripts from insects and also helps to limit the risk of fire.

Overall, it's a pretty nice temple visually, which we visited a bit hastily because we arrived at sunset, but this allowed us to see a pretty pink sky above the structures and we weren't bothered by the crowds (although I doubt it's crowded during the day anyway, except for a special event of course).

A few other temples

Another suggestion, if you enjoy these walks around monasteries, is to take a tour of the complex of Wat YangThis one also includes a fairly classic set of buildings, but stands out with a beautifully crafted wooden structure and, once again, a library set on the water, mixing old on the upper part and modern on its lower floor.

During our visit, on that hot day, we came across novices using water jugs to cool off while doing their laundry. It's the kind of everyday scene, both simple and amusing, that we enjoy observing.

I can also cite the Wat PhlapplachaiNot far from our guesthouse, there are some street art pieces on the low walls that perfectly reflect the spirit of the temples (paintings of dogs!), while still feeling quite unexpected in such a place. There's other street art in the area, so keep your eyes peeled.

I didn't see it myself, but I wanted to mention it: there's also the Wat Sanam Brahm, a little out of the way (1 km, that's fine), which seems worth a look, especially for its old T-shaped building, rather unusual.

5- The old wooden houses of Phetchaburi

This is clearly a big part of the city's charm. And in Thailand, there aren't that many cities where I find this kind of old-world atmosphere. Phetchaburi still has many old wooden houses, some of which are a hundred years old.

This is all the more rare given that, in most urban areas, older dwellings are gradually being replaced by more modern structures. This is particularly striking in Bangkok, even though the capital still retains some older communities (I'm thinking of Kudee Jin or again Chinatown)

Walking through the streets of Phetchaburi gives a slight feeling of stepping back in time or, at the very least, that pleasant impression of rediscovering an older Thailand, perhaps even more discreet, and above all less transformed.

This is especially true in the narrow streets around the river. If you wish, there is a quick loop you can take starting from Wat Mahathat Worawihan, where a bridge allows you to cross the river that cuts the city from north to south.

You can then go to the municipal market (Muang Phetchaburi Municipal Food Market) and stroll around the area before moving on to another market, advertised under the name of Phetchaburi Riverside Old Market, which runs along the river and faces Wat Phlapplachai.

From there you can either reach the next road bridge to cross back to the other side, or cross directly from the Riverside Old Market Thanks to the addition of a pedestrian bridge, you will arrive directly on the street where the hotel I recommend at the end of the article is located.

Since I'm on the subject of markets, note that if you visit Phetchaburi on a Saturday, and only on that day, you will find a night market along Pa Nich Charoen Street between 17pm and 21pm.

Returning to the wooden houses, they contribute greatly to the charm of the town, as do the small shops they still house and the local life that one encounters along the streets.

Phetchaburi will, I think, show you that the title "Land of Smiles" still holds true. I certainly hope you will enjoy wandering through it as much as I enjoyed strolling and photographing some everyday scenes.

Phetchaburi at night

Once night falls, Phetchaburi, which isn't particularly hectic during the day, becomes genuinely peaceful. But it's still Thailand: there are still a few lively areas, with street vendors offering all sorts of delicious things, from simple bowls of noodles to spicy salads.

However, there aren't that many restaurants open in the evening. I do, however, have a good recommendation to share with you, exceptionally, at the end of this article.

But Phetchaburi is also famous for its desserts. Admittedly, this falls into the specific category of Thai specialties, because apart from sticky rice and banana pancakes (the famous roti), it can't be said that this is where the... thai food excels.

One of these shops, Nok Noi Thai DessertIt's practically a local institution, or at least its owner's success seems undeniable, judging by the numerous portraits of celebrities who have come to sample its specialties. Jitima had stopped there during our first visit to Phetchaburi, and she made sure to return on our last trip.

Moreover, during this express return to Phetchaburi — a stop on the way south, precisely — we took a short digestive stroll around the street of our hotel.

Besides the dessert shop, we passed by the red-lit facade of Wat Phlapplachai, where there is a Chinese Buddha, and then by the entrance of Wat Mahathat Worawihan, also highlighted by its night lights.

We finally reached the river opposite the temple, before returning to the alleyway of our hotel. Opposite, on the other side of Wat Phlapplachai, a small area has now been redeveloped into a garden, the Sunthorn Phu Memorial Parkwhere a statue of the great Thai poet stands Sunthorn Phu.

This is also where the new pedestrian bridge mentioned above is located, which allows access to the old riverside market.

6- Seaside: beaches and whale watching

The town of Phetchaburi isn't exactly a seaside resort, as it's not directly on the coast. The nearest beaches are about 25 km away, which is quite reasonable. So, if you have a car, there's nothing stopping you from taking a short trip there.

The Phetchaburi coastline

So obviously, don't expect the famous white sand beaches and turquoise water that Thailand is known for here. No. As on much of the northwest coast of the Gulf of Thailand, the water is often murkier, or even downright brownish as soon as the sea is a little rough.

The advantage is that you generally won't be bothered by crowds. Unfortunately, it's not always very clean, as you can see in my next photo, but that also depends a lot on the time of year.

In general, the seaside here offers a taste of Thailand as we love it, living at its own pace, with people going about their business peacefully. Here you'll find simple, sometimes more rugged spots that offer a different perspective on the Phetchaburi coast.

There is, however, a small exception with Cha-am, the best known and most developed seaside resort on the province's coast, located about forty kilometers south of the city.

Due to its proximity to Hua HinCha-am is more touristy, but it's still a nice stop for a meal by the sea, which we made sure to do on our way back to Bangkok. Nakhon Si Thammarat (where we go regularly).

Salt marshes

If you are traveling independently, I suggest you leave the main road (Route 35) and turn left onto Route 4012 when arriving from Bangkok. You will then travel along a pleasant road for a while, passing through salt marshes.

It's not necessarily a must-see attraction that alone justifies the trip, but it fully contributes to the character of the local landscape, a blend of sea, human activity, and the vast, flat expanses typical of this part of the Gulf of Thailand. The scenery reminds me a bit of the Vendée region of France, which I know well from having spent a lot of time in Noirmoutier. It's very photogenic, and you don't necessarily expect to find this kind of scenery in Thailand.

Along the coast, you'll also see the classic mangroves, where you might spot a few monkeys. The landscape is reminiscent of Samut Songkhram, the province where they are located. the floating markets of Amphawa et Tha Kha, about 80 km from Bangkok. Salt marshes can also be seen directly from the main road that runs south from Bangkok.

On another visit, we also really enjoyed a short impromptu stop shortly before arriving in town, having lunch late in the afternoon on a boat serving as a restaurant.

Only Thais here, mangroves right next door, a few monkeys frolicking peacefully nearby, while the fishing boats went out to sea: a good glimpse of a more local coastline, with an activity still largely focused on fishing.

The whales of Chao Samran

Something few people know: it's possible to go whale watching here. Yes, you read that right. And I'm not talking about the whale sharks that delight divers in Ko Tao or elsewhere in the south of the country. I'm talking more specifically about... Bryde's whales, also called tropical rorquals.

This cetacean, depending on whether it is male or female, can reach between 12 and 15 meters in length and weigh 16 to 18 tons. They are regularly observed in the northern Gulf of Thailand, around the coasts of the provinces of Phetchaburi, Samut Songkhram, and even as far as Samut Sakhon, near Bangkok.

They can sometimes be seen in groups of around twenty individuals, not counting the Irrawaddy dolphins which may also visit the area.

A boat trip isn't always straightforward, as the activity is limited and now better regulated, following an uncontrolled surge in popularity that had started to drive people away. Chao Samran beach can serve as a starting point; in fact, that's why I went there, hoping to take this boat trip.

You can contact an association, Chom Whales, which regularly organizes outings during the season, from June to December, but booking isn't easy because their former website is no longer active. So, I'm giving you their Instagram instead: https://www.instagram.com/chomwhales/

Note that this is a fairly expensive activity: it costs around 2,000 baht per person. While there, I tried to find a local to take me on a trip. They offered to take us on a fishing boat for 4,000 baht for the whole boat, even though there were only two of us.

It was consistent with the advertised price of 2,000 baht per person, but at the time, I wasn't expecting that price, so it was beyond my budget. I had to decline, much to my regret… However, it could be an interesting option if you are a group of four or five.

As I mentioned, it's more regulated these days, so it's not certain that you can still improvise this on the spot at the last minute. It's best to find out more beforehand if this type of activity interests you.

7- Kaeng Krachan National Park

If you're in the area, Phetchaburi is a good starting point for visiting Kaeng Krachan National Park, about 50 km away. It's a relatively undiscovered park, partly because it's less well-connected and developed than the more famous one. Khao Yai National Parknear Bangkok.

However, it boasts a large and diverse fauna. It is particularly renowned for the observation of numerous birds but also butterflies (more than 400 species!).

You can also encounter, among other things, various mammals including monkeys such as langurs and gibbons, porcupines, civets, giant black squirrels, but also, for the luckiest, there is a population of tigers as well as black panthers.

There are also waterfalls, like any national park, but one — Thor Thip — is accessible only with a ranger and the other — Pa La-U Waterfall — is in another area of ​​the park further south, and is best visited from Hua Hin.

I haven't visited it myself yet, but it's still a park on my "to do" list. More information on this site in English.