Visit Phang Nga Bay: sites to see and practical advice

When it comes to iconic landscapes in Thailand, Phang Nga Bay can easily top the list. Located in the Andaman Sea between Phuket and Krabi, Phang Nga Bay is a must-see for anyone visiting these regions.

With its many islands and islets bordered by karst cliffs, its sea caves and its mangroves, Phang Nga is often compared to Halong Bay in Vietnam. It offers a surprising natural setting, where emblematic places such as the floating village of Ko Panyi or the famous "James Bond Island" and its nail-shaped rocky peak mingle.

In this article, I share my tips for exploring this unique bay and fully enjoying your visit. This is actually a complete rewrite of the original article, because during my first visit, my discovery of the bay was limited to the very end of the afternoon, considerably limiting the sites seen (for example, I had skipped Ko Tapu, James Bond Island). This new exploration took place over a full day, allowing me to visit Phang Nga in more detail. It therefore seemed necessary to reflect these new discoveries and enrich my story to better share this complete experience.

I hope this more detailed version will help you better prepare your own exploration of Phang Nga Bay.

Ao Phang Nga: a unique marine national park

This vast territory extends over 400 km², straddling Phuket to the west, and Krabi to the east. While Phang Nga province is best known and frequented for its long, wild beaches in Khao Lak, the bay is gaining notoriety after serving as a backdrop for the film The man with the golden gun, the iconic James Bond released in 1974.

Despite this illumination, it was not until 1981 that a large part of the bay was integrated into the Ao Phang Nga National Park, in order to preserve this unique natural heritage.

Ao Phang Nga National Park boundary map.

Looking at the map, we notice that the marine park encompasses a good part of the bay, certainly, but also includes parts of Ko Yao Noi and Ko Yao Yai, the two main islands straddling Phuket and Krabi.

As an aside, Phang Nga Bay is also used in another James Bond film, "Tomorrow Never Dies" (1997) with Pierce Brosnan as 007 and Michelle Yeoh as his sidekick. Interestingly, the action is supposed to take place in Halong Bay (which I give my impressions here), and many forget that Michelle Yeoh is actually a Malaysian actress!

Thanks to its proximity to Phuket Island and the Khao Lak beaches, Phang Nga Bay is ideal for a day trip, offering a pleasant change of scenery away from the classic beaches.

Typical view of Phang Nga Bay.

In Thailand, discovering the country by water is one of the must-see experiences: Bangkok with its many canals and the floating markets dotting the region are a perfect example of this, and Phang Nga Bay is no exception. Here, it is aboard a longtail boat, faithful to the local tradition, and by kayak, ideal for immersing yourself more intimately in the details of this unique landscape.

The main attraction remains the spectacle that nature can offer us. The work of erosion on these limestone rocks, from which result these karst structures, started it millions of years ago. It is hard to imagine that these rocks once formed the sea floor and were covered with corals.

Sailing among these ghostly islets is a bit like diving into a living painting, where each turn reveals a new breathtaking scene. That's the magic of Phang Nga Bay.

1. The hidden lagoon of Ko Hong

So be careful, you should not confuse this island with the one of the same name, located only 25 km away, closer to Krabi. If the latter is better known, because it is part of the combo of the so-called 4 islands tour, which is done from Krabi, "this" Ko Hong that I am talking about here, does not have a beach. But the origin of the name is the same.

In fact, in Thai, the word "Hong" (大大) means "room" or "room". And in the context of Ko Hong (เกาะห้อง), it refers to a inland lagoon or an open cave, hidden in the heart of an island. A phenomenon due to erosion that creates spaces similar to rooms accessible only by water.

On this Ko Hong, like the one near Krabi, the main attraction is precisely an interior lagoon, accessible by kayak or boat at high tide, which gives the impression of being in an isolated "natural chamber", surrounded by limestone cliffs.

Overview of Ko Hong.

From our starting point, our first visit of the day was to be a cave called Kaeo Cave, or "crystal cave". So it was towards this cavity that our boatman took us, the opportunity for us to rediscover the islands of this bay, some of which form imposing walls of rock. It was then around 10am, but that day, the tide was not yet right to bring the boat in. It was only postponed, and we continued our trip.

We first stop in front of a rocky peak, which the boatman insists on taking a photo of us in front of. We know he means well, so we get into the spirit before continuing to the next stop, Ko Hong.

And as we arrived at the edge of the island, we saw a floating barge, with kayaks working around it. Our boatman approached and the team on the barge offered us an excursion into the lagoon. This activity, independent of our boat, was announced to us at 500 baht per person.

At the time, I admit that this price put me off a bit, because it wasn't particularly planned in the budget, but in a way, that's also what I was there for, to discover as many things as possible in the bay and so I ended up accepting.

My advice: prepare a little margin in your budget if you want to take full advantage of the activities offered on site.

I want to clarify that if the boatman follows a circuit that you have defined in advance, there is no obligation for you to do these extras. If you are not interested, just politely decline and continue your visit. Coming back to our visit, after transferring from our boat to the platform, we make the payment and we both settle into a kayak, where a smiling rower welcomes us.

We arrive at the platform next to the island.

It's always better with a smile!

This is one of the pleasant points of this excursion: although the place can be likened to a "tourist factory", the rowers are distinguished by their good humor and their attention, far from the jaded attitude that one might fear in this kind of setting. First, we reach a partially isolated lagoon. It seems that access for long-tails is possible on the other side, but this is closed to preserve the area and avoid the mixing of kayaks and motor boats.

This area alone is already magnificent, with the impression of being privileged to admire this somewhat "secret" nature, which is revealed before our astonished eyes. Our rower, still smiling, picks up a leaf and begins to cut a heart in the center. A little attention that earns us the souvenir photo of the day! Then, direction a first cavity, which forces us to lie down to avoid hitting ourselves against the rock.

Once on the other side, we enter a first "room", relatively small, but probably because it is the first one we discover, it really gives off an atmosphere out of time. Although we are not alone, it could have been worse and the place remains quiet enough to be pleasant.

After a few minutes, we pass under another arch, revealing a second room, larger, but surprisingly deserted when we pass. Our rower takes advantage of this moment to make a flower from a palm leaf, a small souvenir as charming as it is ephemeral.

First passage under a cavity of Ko Hong.

First lagoon.

2nd lagoon.

We then continue to sail quietly, passing through a new narrow passage where we have to lie down once again. The blue sky remains visible above us, but thanks to the configuration of the place, we enjoy the beneficial shade, far from the scorching sun. That said, remember to bring sunscreen: in Thailand, it's always a good idea!

Some passages are so narrow that I have a thought for those of you who are subject to claustrophobia… This is especially true of the next one, which takes us back to the main lagoon. However, rather than going back the way we came, we quickly move on to another cavity. There, a surprise awaits us: looking up, the vegetation forms a heart-shaped opening, a small poetic detail offered by nature.

We continue this pleasant stroll in the middle of the lagoons.

The passage is so narrow that it forms a small traffic jam.

Watch your head!

We arrive in a new area.

The little surprise of the day.

Each cavity reveals stalagmites, and each lagoon retains that immersive tranquility that makes the experience so special. After a final narrow passage, almost like a canyon, we greet a small crab clinging to a rock wall, before returning to the starting platform, located to the south of the island.

This little walk, although quite short – just half an hour – turned out to be a most enjoyable moment. No regrets about this extra investment: it was worth it and I recommend it.

Coming back to the bay soon

We find our long-tail.

2. Ko Sawang Yai Cave

Let's stay on the theme of cavities for our next stop: a cave. But this time, it stands out for its position, slightly higher than the water level.

No need for a kayak this time, so we land on the island of Ko Sawang Yai, located approximately 1,7 km from Ko Hong, our previous stop. In front of us, an old wooden ladder waits to be climbed to access the entrance of the cave. Two other boats are already there, their passengers still inside, discovering the place.

In the direction of Ko Sawang Yai and its cave.

In Thai, the cave is called Tham Nok Kra Rian (ถ้ำนกกระเรียน), the “crane cave”. Greedy means cave or cavern, and Nok Kra Rian refers to the crane (we are talking about the bird here). Although this animal is often associated with longevity and wisdom in Asia, we have not obtained any explanations on the attribution or origin of this name.

Once inside, we discover a large, unique room, decorated with various rock formations: stalactites, stalagmites, columns, and even a structure similar to a petrified waterfall. The pronounced shades of green contrast nicely with the white, gray and brown shades of the surrounding walls.

The cave is not completely plunged into darkness, natural light sneaks in through gaps, but some more remote areas are obviously darker and the help of a lamp is not too much in this case. Our phones do the trick, other visitors have provided torches when it is not simply their companion who lights them.

Some boatmen actually escort their clients and play the role of guide, while ours seems to take advantage of the opportunity to stretch his legs, and I say this without animosity, we do very well with our lights and there is not much else to explain about the cave itself.

Following the advice of the locals, we head towards an opening located at the back of the cave. This one "normally" offers a view of the sea. The fact is that a tree hides the panorama but the effect of this small natural window on the outside remains pleasant.

After ten minutes on site, it is time to return. In the end, the opening that serves as an entrance offers the most beautiful view of the bay rather than the discreet one at the back of the cave. Another two or three photos and we went back down the ladder to find our long-tail, ready to discover our next stop.

3. Khao Phing Kan and Ko Tapu (James Bond Island): the icon of Phang Nga Bay

If there is one island that embodies the appeal of Phang Nga Bay, it is Khao Phing Kan, better known as "James Bond Island". Made famous by the film " The man with the golden gun » (1974), the island serves as the setting for the confrontation between James Bond, played by Roger Moore, and his enemy Francisco Scaramanga, played by the late Christopher Lee. In the plot, Khao Phing Kan is Scaramanga's secret base, an isolated and mysterious place, ideal for his Machiavellian plans.

Iconic scene from the movie "The Man with the Golden Gun".

Khao Phing Kan, better known as "James Bond Island", consists of two small islands separated by a sandbar... originally. Today, to better manage the sometimes large crowds during the day, a platform covered with earth and gravel has been built. The island has two main beaches: a small beach on the side, which serves as an access point, and the main beach, from where you can admire Ko Tapu, this famous nail-shaped rock.

And justly, Ko Tapu literally translates to “nail island”. This islet, which proudly emerges from the water at 20 meters high, has become a true icon. Its popularity makes it a must-see tourist spot, where you can find souvenir shops, but also an entrance fee of 300 Baht to access Khao Phing Kan.

Ko Tapu and its recognizable shape.

As a reminder, Phang Nga Bay is part of the Phang Nga National Park.Ao Phang Nga National Park. The Thai government considers that any visitor to the bay will necessarily pass through this island, which explains the installation of a checkpoint to pay this entrance fee. However, it is a double-edged bet: if, like me during my first visit, you are content to admire Ko Tapu from the sea, without setting foot on the island, you will not need to pay a ticket, because it is the only island in the bay with an access fee.

Have some cash ready though, in case you want to explore Khao Phing Kan!

Since 1998, boats no longer land on the main beach. They now dock on the small beach to the south of the island, which has become the main access. This measure was put in place to protect Ko Tapu, as boats are now prohibited from approaching too closely, in order to preserve this natural wonder.

A well-appointed visit

After landing on the small beach, you can directly pay the ticket to access the national park (they have set up a kiosk that blends into the scenery). On your left, you will see some concrete steps, discreetly integrated into the local setting, allowing you to reach the main area. On the way, you can already enjoy a nice viewpoint of Ko Tapu: the perfect opportunity for some must-see photos. With a bit of luck, you will come across a monitor lizard wandering quietly in the area!

The small beach where you disembark on James Bond Island.

The small kiosk to pay the ticket for Ao Phang Nga National Park.

A few steps lead to a viewpoint.

Viewpoint on Ko Tapu.

A little further, you reach a sort of dock, located at the foot of the steps, offering a breathtaking view of Ko Tapu. Shortly after you have another kiosk to buy the entrance ticket. If you already have one, you can ignore it. Right next door, the main beach is available to you: and good news, it is possible to swim there. Doing a few lengths with this iconic view, admit that it is a unique experience!

At the back of the island, you will find souvenir shops. And if you feel like it, you can try their toilets, with this rather original feature: they are open-air!

View of the beach and shopping area.

A little dip with this view?

Beyond taking pictures of Ko Tapu and a possible dip to cool off, exploring Khao Phing Kan, whose space remains very limited, is limited to a few natural curiosities that bear witness to the work of erosion over the millennia. Among them, a small cavity in which you can walk a few steps in the shade and above all, impossible to miss this immense inclined wall, vestige of a fracture that detached an entire section of the hill. Standing below it, you really feel very small in the face of this work of nature.

4. Ko Thalu and Lod Cave

Lod Cave is the name of the main cavity associated with the island of Ko Thalu. In reality, it is also a network of marine galleries, separating rooms with lagoon, on the same principle as in Ko Hong, where we were previously.

This network can also be visited by kayak, always accompanied by a rower. The advertised price is the same as that of Ko Hong. If, at the time, I tell myself that it is starting to blow the budget, I still decide to let myself be tempted, just to live the experience to the end.

Arriving towards Ko Thalu.

The starting point for kayaks for Ko Thalu.

So here we are again on a kayak, with, as usual, a cheerful rower – at least that doesn't change. Our first passage is under Tham Lod, the main sea cave of Ko Thalu, which crosses the island from one side to the other. We then follow the wall to the south before reaching the mangrove. This is the special feature of Ko Thalu: a vast area, wedged between two piles of rocks, is covered in mangrove.

The same phenomenon, but on a much larger scale, is observed on the neighboring island of Ko Raya Ring, where the mangrove stretches for more than two kilometers between two rock formations.

The mangrove at the foot of Ko Raya.

Passage under Tham Lod.

Yes yes, this is the kind of hole we go through!

First passage in the mangrove.

Very quickly, we pass under a narrow tunnel to reach a first room. If I am honest, it is certainly beautiful again, but it gives a feeling of déjà vu after Ko Hong. The advantage here is that there are clearly fewer people. We then set off again into the mangrove. I have already explored several, but, in general, on foot, following raised paths.

Navigating through this wildlife by boat provides a completely different experience, between the sensation of floating but also in particular thanks to the surrounding sound atmosphere.

The ceiling is beautiful.

We're coming from there.

And we find ourselves facing this wall.

The rower, faithful to tradition, does so by cutting out a heart for us from a sheet of paper to immortalize the moment. Another feeling of déjà vu… We arrive in a second mini-room, so small that, when we look up, we feel like we are in the heart of a natural chimney. Shortly after, the loop ends and we return to our starting point.

This ride, about 30 minutes, is pleasant, but, even if the experience differs slightly thanks to the presence of the mangrove, I would advise choosing between the kayak in Ko Hong and this one to avoid weighing down your budget. Afterwards, if your budget is larger, nothing prevents you from doing both, like me.

5. The floating village of Ko Panyi

Who says sea, says fishing communities. Around Phang Nga Bay, you will find several traditional villages, all Muslim, with houses on stilts. I can mention Ban Ko Mai Phai (on the island of Ko Mai Phai) or Ban Bang Phat (on the island of Ko Bang Ling), but the best known is undoubtedly Ko Panyi (also spelled Koh Panyee), due to its particular location.

It is a Muslim fishing village, originally from the island of Java, Indonesia. They settled around this piece of rock, at the end of the 18th century, when the law on the right of the soil, reserved only for Thai citizens, was already in force.

To get around this constraint, the houses were built on stilts, thus avoiding occupying the land officially. These inhabitants became rich thanks to the profitable fishing in the bay and ended up acquiring Thai nationality.

Thanks to this regularization, permanent constructions were added, notably the mosque, which adjoins the only piece of land available, used as a cemetery to honor Muslim traditions.

The birth of Panyee Football Club

Personally, it was a famous photo by Yann Arthus-Bertrand that introduced me to this village, whose view from the sky made it fascinating and particularly unique. A stream of houses on stilts surrounded by water and this easily recognizable sugarloaf islet, this ensemble forms a heavenly setting characteristic of Phang Nga Bay, so much so that they began to attract people with the gradual arrival of tourism in the region.

But this village is also famous for another, more unusual reason: its incredible football history. In 1986, inspired by the World Cup, the children of the island decided to take up the sport, but one obstacle stood in their way: the lack of space. Ingeniously, they built a floating pitch from recycled materials, allowing them to train.

The famous floating football field of Ko Panyi.

Soon after, having heard of an inter-school championship in southern Thailand (the Southern Thai School Championships), they decide to participate and, with the support of some residents, obtain suitable equipment (shoes, t-shirts, shorts).

Against all odds, they finally finished 3rd in the championship, finishing the semi-final barefoot, pouring rain invited itself into the game, and its latter, out of habit from picking up the ball in the water, proved more comfortable in this way on a wet pitch. This performance gave birth to the Panyee Football Club, a real local pride. A true story that was the subject of an excellent Thai advertisement (the latter being excellent story tellers) that I invite you to watch here:

Football has remained in the veins ever since and the village has no less than three pitches! First there is the original, the floating pitch from which this whole story stems, it has of course been preserved and still exists. The other two are side by side with the largest, serving as a municipal pitch, which is surrounded by barriers to prevent the ball from falling into the water too often. Finally, the last, smaller pitch serves as a playground for the school located in the village.

A village between tradition and modernity

Over time, Ko Panyi has evolved. While fishing remains a partial activity, tourism now occupies a predominant place. Some of the traditional houses on stilts have been transformed into souvenir shops or restaurants specializing in seafood. Tour operators regularly stop there to allow visitors to have lunch and stroll around the village.

This was also our case since we had not had lunch until then. But before that, we were just going to explore the village, even if we are already familiar with the place following our previous visit.

During our visit, our boat dropped us off directly on the famous floating land, a change from our previous arrival via the main quay. Although we quickly come across a stall with souvenirs, this is not a very commercial area of ​​the village. We quickly reach the foot of the mosque, adjacent to the only available land on the island, used as a cemetery.

Next door is a courtyard of what looks like a farm, two kids are carrying chickens. I think to myself that this is the only house in the village built on dry land. I wonder what the story of its owner is.

We continue the walk on the concrete paths that wind and act as "streets". We pass houses with a very heterogeneous appearance but overall, colorful. Most of them rest on stilts still made of wood when their walls alternate between wood, sheet metal and PVC cladding for the most modern.

And speaking of modernity, it's strange when we come across a solid house, with a tiled terrace and concrete walls with air conditioning, I must say that it stands out and is surprising, but it's an almost inevitable evolution in comfort, how can we blame them.

At this point in the afternoon, after 14pm, the flow of tourists had dissipated, giving way to a peaceful atmosphere and scenes of daily life. Here a lady is doing her dishes, there two village women are chatting, and further away, a man is preparing balls to make "roti" this famous southern specialty, a kind of crepe best known to tourists for its dessert version, with banana and condensed milk on top.

The temptation is too great, not being particularly fond of seafood, I cracked for a well-garnished roti in this shop, it will do the trick for my lunch. Jitima, she had a small bowl of noodles right next door. We are then in the middle of the street that we could call the main one, with a row of shops where hundreds of clothes with flashy patterns hang (hello elephant pants).

Before leaving, Jitima took the time to taste some local specialties like fried crab and dried shrimp and left with some shopping. After an hour of wandering, we returned to the floating land, ready to continue and finish our exploration of the bay.

6. The Crystal Cave (Kaeo Cave)

Remember the unsuccessful attempt to dock in the cave at the very beginning? Our boatman did not forget. After our visit to Ko Panyi, we headed back to our departure dock, since this cave was not far from there.

On the way, we made a short stop to immortalize another cavity dug by the waves and crossing an island from one side to the other. Then, after about twenty minutes of navigation without any other stops, we finally arrived near the crystal cave, Kaeo Cave. This time, the tide is low enough to allow us to enter.

But just before going there, our boatman suggests that we set foot on a beach on the neighboring island (its name in Thai is written " เกาะชาวทะเลใต้", which translates to " The Island of the South Sea People", Chaw Thale Tai in Latin letter). As such, a photo from the boat was enough for me, even if it was part of our excursion, I declined the invitation and favored the cave, time was running out and back on dry land, we still had to drive 1 hour to reach Khao Lak, which I wanted to do preferably before dark.

Chaw Thale Tai Beach (เกาะชาวทะเลใต้), right next to the island where the cave is located.

The entrance to the cave.

Then comes the time to tread the ground of the cave. Finally, before that, we must let the boatman tackle the maneuver, which is particularly delicate when we see the concentration and delicacy to enter this restricted space, while the lapping of the waves easily deflects the long tail. With caution, he succeeds and we can use the boat's ladder to touch land... or rather sand.

In itself, it's not the cave that's really interesting, but the experience. It must be admitted that finding yourself in this cave with its small beach clearly gives it a little pirate/adventure feel! Inside, a few stalactites embellish the walls, but its real asset remains the clear view of the sea from a slightly elevated opening.

This time, no trees obstruct the view. Our boatman improvises as a photographer for the souvenir break, and after only 5 minutes on site, we go back on board.

The navigation resumed, and in about ten minutes, we reached the departure quay, thus concluding a busy day in Phang Nga Bay.

Other notable sites

Although we were able to explore many sites in the time allowed (much more than during my first visit), we still lacked a little time to see everything. An extra hour or two would have been enough to complete this already full tour, knowing that we left the pier in the middle of the morning, around 10am. We chose to go to the most important ones, leaving aside a few more secondary sites (except one, Ko Phanak).

Here are some suggestions for other places to visit in Phang Nga Bay:

Suan Hoi (สุสานหอย)

It means "Seashell Graveyard". When we were making our selection of visits for the day, we understood that it is a small geological site where layers of fossilized shells, millions of years old, have formed. Note that there is a similar, better known site near Krabi.

Talay Waek (ทะเลแหวก)

This term, which means "divided sea" or "separated sea", refers to a natural phenomenon where, at low tide, a sandbank emerges, connecting several areas that are usually submerged. The most famous case being Tub Island (or Ko Thap), again, in Krabi. Here, there is no white sand but with good timing of the tide, it is still a visible attraction in the bay.

Khao Khian Paintings

Khao Khian, which translates to “the mountain of drawings,” is located on a cliff approximately 1 km north of Ko Panyi. If I had known before writing this article how close this place was, I would probably have asked to make a small detour.

This site is in the form of a cavity dug by the waves, where one can observe rock paintings representing animal scenes (fish, lizards) but also human figures, one of which seems to be fishing. These drawings, made about 3 years ago by sailors who anchored here for shelter during the monsoon, provide a window into the maritime history of the region.

Ko Phanak

Finally, it is impossible not to mention Ko Phanak, one of the major islands in the bay that we had to leave due to lack of time (and to preserve the budget!). Nearly 4 km long, this island is full of hidden treasures, accessible mainly by kayak, or on foot if the tide is low.

Like Ko Hong or Ko Thalu, Ko Phanak reveals a network of natural tunnels that allow you to venture across the island. Visitors can explore caves like the Bat Cave (Gotham had better watch out) or access open spaces surrounded by chaotic cliffs. These areas, sometimes surrounded by hidden lagoons, offer an immersive experience in the heart of the island.

List of attractions in the bay seen at the departure dock of our boat.

Viewpoints of Phang Nga Bay

This article would not be complete without mentioning the breathtaking views of Phang Nga Bay. In recent years, a small mountain called Samet Nangshe, still mostly covered with palm plantations, has become a real place of pilgrimage for lovers of panoramas.

Local owners have exploited the potential of these hillside locations, offering breathtaking views, particularly at sunrise.

The view from the road is already pretty good in itself.

Ao Tho Li Viewpoint

It was the first to be established in the area, and it has managed to maintain a certain simplicity. Originally, there were a few bamboo bungalows, now no longer used from what I have seen, but replaced by tents for rent. The site is well equipped, with toilets, a small restaurant, a terrace, and even a swing for those who want to relax facing the bay.

The view from Ao Tho Li is superb: clear and immersive, it offers a more intimate alternative to Samet Nangshe. If you have a vehicle, a concrete road allows you to access it easily. Note that not far away, there is another more recent spot, the LeoBro View Point, the view of which is slightly obstructed by vegetation.

Viewpoint from Ao Tho Li.

Samet Nangshe Viewpoint

The most famous viewpoint, thanks in large part to the Boutique Hotel that has sprung up nearby. However, my first experience here was rather frustrating. On my very first visit to the bay, I had planned to go here before our boat trip.

The problem was that I was pretty late compared to my planned schedule (we arrived from Ko Phi Phi that morning and I had taken the opportunity to visit a few sites in Krabi), which left me little leeway... When I arrived at the parking lot, I discovered that the path leading to the viewpoint was very rutted and required a shuttle to go up. Between the waiting time, the climb, and the excursion that awaited me, I had to resolve to leave immediately, without even enjoying the view...

I was as disappointed as I was afraid. that the site is completely disfigured. Finally, I was reassured because nothing has changed, you still won't be able to go there by yourself, the path leading there remains unpaved. You have to leave your vehicle in the parking lot below and from there you will have two choices:

• Either wait shuttle (local pick-up). You have to pay for this 90 baht per person for the round trip.
• Either you go there Strolling along and the rate (for site maintenance) is at that time 30 baht per person.

On this second attempt, I decided to go at sunrise for a different atmosphere, having already contemplated a daytime view from Ao Tho Li the day before. Despite the commercial aspect of the site, it was difficult not to succumb to the magic of the panorama that was offered to us. The facilities remained sober, with a few tent pitches, a terrace and decorations, including several heart-shaped wicker seats, ideally placed to capture memorable shots.

Khao Pra-art View Point

If Samet Nangshe attracts the crowds by its fame, another point of view, much more discreet, offers a peaceful alternative… It is the least known, and for good reason: it is only modestly indicated on Google Maps and no sign indicates its presence from the road. You have to take a dirt road that crosses a palm plantation to reach it. Although the view is more partial than on the other points, it remains pleasant and deserves a mention for lovers of tranquility.

How to get to Phang Nga Bay

Basically, the easiest way is to go to either Phuket, either at Khao Lak (see the "Where to Stay" section below). These are the two most common and convenient starting points for organizing an excursion in the bay. The alternative remains the city of Phang Nga, which is closer to the bay but less used as a base by visitors.

1. Getting to Phuket

Phuket is easily accessible from Bangkok, Chiang Mai or other major Thai cities thanks to a well-connected international airport. From abroad, many direct flights also land there, especially from Europe via the national airline Thai Airways.

• By plane : From Bangkok, allow about 1h30 flight. Companies like Thai Smile, AirAsia or Nok Air offer very affordable rates.
• By bus or car: From Bangkok, the bus journey takes about 12 hours. If you rent a car, the driving time is similar.

2. Getting to Khao Lak

Khao Lak, although less accessible directly from abroad, is a popular destination for visitors already in Thailand, particularly those arriving via Phuket.

• From Phuket: The drive or minivan takes about 1 hours (30 km). This is the most convenient option if you are already in Phuket.
• From Bangkok: You can take a flight to Phuket and then drive to Khao Lak.

A view of Phang Nga Bay with Ko Panyi in sight, from the plane approaching Phuket airport.

You can book your transport from Phuket via the search tool:

Once there

After reaching one of the starting points mentioned above, you have several options to explore Phang Nga Bay.

On an organized tour

The easiest solution is to use a local agency. From Phuket, Khao Lak or Phang Nga, agencies offer tours under the classic title James Bond Island Tour, generally covering the must-sees of the bay.

There are variations, including an evening outing, as Phang Nga Bay is also known for its bioluminescent plankton phenomenon. It is important to note that the visibility of bioluminescent plankton depends on several factors, including weather conditions, and even the phase of the moon, so check beforehand to avoid disappointment.

• Price: From 1 to 200 Baht, depending on comfort level and group size.
• Usual program:
  • Passage to Wat Suwan Khuha and its cave with the reclining Buddha (near the city).
  • Longtail boat navigation to caves like Tham Lot ou Khao Khian.
  • Lunch at Ko Panyi.
  • Visit of James Bond Island
  • Depending on the options chosen, a stop for kayaking at Ko Phanak.
• Examples of towers:

How to get there by yourself?

If you prefer to plan your own day, it is entirely possible to rent a boat from one of the local docks.

Here are the two I've tested so far:

• • Pa Yang Boat Service

  Discovered somewhat by chance, this quay was located just 16 km from Samet Nangshe, after an aborted visit to the viewpoint. The welcome is warm, the prices reasonable, and the area is quiet, which makes it an excellent option to start your excursion.

  

• • Hin Rom Pier

  This pier ticks three important boxes: it's located right next to Samet Nangshe (where we had slept the night before), has very good reviews, and is just 1km off the main road, a little way from the village of Baan Him Rom. A perfect picturesque setting to start the day.

  

Then there are two main docks, where you should find a wide choice of boats and options for your visits:

1. 1. Phang Nga Bay with a longtail boat
      • Located in the north of the bay, next to Phang Nga town, this pier is one of the most popular for organizing a day in the bay.
   2. Ban Klong Khian Pier
      • This major pier is located in Khlong Khian village, facing Ko Phanak. It is only 45 minutes from Phuket Airport, making it particularly convenient if you are arriving from the island.

Rates and options

• Basic rate: Expect to pay a minimum of 2 Baht to rent a longtail boat for half a day.
  • This corresponds to a private visit, but you may be able to find others to share the boat by heading to the main docks. Long lines can hold up to 20 people (or more depending on their size), which can reduce costs per person.
• Express visits: If you opt for a shorter route (1-3 islands), you might be able to negotiate a reduced rate, between 1 and 500 Baht.
• Full day: For a full tour, as described in this article, our boat was negotiated at 4 500 Bahts.

Little reminder :

Note that long-tails are always expensive, because they use large engines that are very fuel-hungry... This cost should be kept in mind during your negotiations.

Where to stay in Phang Nga

While Phuket tends to take the cake for the default place to stay in the region, there are three spots from which it is easy to get to Phang Nga Bay.

• Phang Nga, the city. The bay takes its name from this province, which itself bears the name of its main city. Located in the north of the bay, less than 10 km from the main quay (simply referenced as Phang Nga Bay with a longtail boat on Google Maps), it is an ideal option to minimize travel times. However, few visitors choose it as a base, preferring spots by the sea.
• Khao Lak. The beaches of Khao Lak are located about 70 km from the bay and thereby are an ideal place to stay. Many local agencies offer excursions to Phang Nga Bay. If you prefer to go independently, it's a good hour's drive before you reach one of the docks that take you into the bay by longtail boat.
• Phuket. Default option for many. Here too, you will find a plethora of local agencies offering a day tour of the bay. In terms of transport, it is similar to Khao Lak since it is about 70 km, if we take into account that you stay rather on the southern part of the island, generally more popular (whether it is Patong, Kamala, Rawai or even Phuket town).

Beach in Khao Lak.

Sametnangshe Boutique: The hotel with a breathtaking view

To illustrate my experience on this tour, let's talk about the hotel where I stayed the day before our excursion: the Sametnangshe Boutique. Initially, it was a simple café with a terrace, taking advantage of its exceptional location to offer a panoramic view of the bay. Its dazzling success led to its expansion: bungalows, tent pitches, and, in a short time, a transformation into High-end boutique hotel, with the prices that go with it…

At the time of our stay they had small "capsule" style rooms about 70 € per night, but they have moved upmarket so much recently that these have apparently disappeared. For a basic room, you now have to count on average 100€ off season, and 170€ in high season.

Book your stay at Sametnangshe Boutique

Since my visit, the establishment has continued to expand. What I described a few years ago as "a still very recent development, starting from nothing" has now become a complete complex, with comfortable rooms, a large restaurant with terrace, a new café also with its terrace, and even a swimming pool.

The flip side

While the success of Sametnangshe Boutique is understandable, it is unfortunately accompanied by rapid development that is profoundly changing the local landscape and ecosystem.

That's the problem with Thailand, when a place becomes famous (often thanks to its popularity on Instagram), expansions multiply, sometimes to the detriment of the environment and natural aesthetics.

It is hard not to feel a certain sadness in the face of this phenomenon: the fragile balance between preservation and exploitation always seems to tip to the wrong side. On this hill, the trees are gradually giving way to new bungalows and terraces, razing entire sections of the mountain.

This success has also attracted competitors, such as the recent Beyond Skywalk Nangshi. The latter is even more ambitious in terms of luxury, since they have built a skywalk (platform with glass floor), mounted on enormous concrete pylons that hardly fits into the natural landscape. The prices are just as high, and despite the appeal of this spectacular view, the visual and environmental impact of this development remains very questionable.

Map of attractions in Phang Nga Bay

To help you get your bearings, here is a detailed map of the bay showing almost all the attractions mentioned in this article as well as a visualization of the route taken to understand the area covered.

By displaying the list via the icon at the top left, you will see at the top of the list the lighter icons corresponding to the sites that I have not visited. I have also distinguished the platforms with a color code: the platforms in blue indicate those that I have already used during my visits.

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