Seeing elephants up close and interacting with them is a popular activity in northern Thailand , especially for families with children. While more and more travelers are aware of the abuses of "old-fashioned" elephant camps, where rides on elephant back in a basket are still offered, many are now turning to places that are more respectful of animal welfare.
Elephant sanctuaries are now found throughout the country, particularly around Chiang Mai , where the Elephant Nature Park played a pioneering role. Its founder, Lek Chailert , is at the origin of this enthusiasm for experiences closer to nature and elephants, without exploitation or artificial means.
The aim here is not to enter into the debate on the domestication of elephants and their place in the jungle (a complex subject that would deserve an article of its own), but to tell you about a sanctuary based in Chiang Rai.
I had already heard about it, because it was created by Sophie, a French woman who has lived in Thailand for over 30 years, and whose story deserves a film. About ten years ago, in addition to running a guesthouse, the Thai Apache, she began taking in elephants from tourist camps like circuses or intensive treks, buying them back from their owners to offer them a peaceful retirement.
Here is how a day with Sophie's elephants unfolds, in an exceptional natural setting, in the heart of the Chiang Rai mountains.
Elephant Steps Moves…Twice
As it happened, I learned of Sophie and her elephants' troubles shortly after my first visit to the sanctuary in July 2018.
For just over two years, Elephant Steps was located near the village of Ban Pha Thong, 25 km east of Chiang Rai. But after all the effort put into creating a suitable space for elephants, they had to start all over again and move 15 km further to a more appropriate site. This time, the location seems to be permanent.
The new site is up to date on Google Maps , but regardless, you will still be taken care of from Chiang Rai, so access remains simple for visitors.
Beyond Elephant Steps, Sophie is deeply involved in animal welfare and humanitarian aid in the region. She founded the Kat Pat Association , which fights against animal abandonment, funds vaccination campaigns, and cares for stray dogs and cats in remote villages of northern Thailand.
She is also the founder of the ABCD for All Foundation , which provides assistance to disadvantaged children in these same villages by providing them with academic support and educational materials.
Memory of the “original” Elephant Steps:
What’s a day at Elephant Steps like?
Since my first visit, I have returned to the "new" Elephant Steps, which allows me to give you details of how a day with Sophie's elephants goes.
The price remains unchanged: 2 Baht per adult for the day, and half price for children under 10 (remember to bring pants for them). If you ever want to immerse yourself for longer, she also offers a 2-day + 1-night package for 5 Baht.
This price includes everything :
✔️ Lunch, fruit, water and coffee
✔️ A Karen outfit loaned for the day
✔️ The round-trip transfer from your hotel in Chiang Rai
When making your reservation , please remember to provide the name of your hotel so we can arrange your pick-up. You can book here.
⏰ Departure and route
- Pick-up between 8:30 a.m. and 8:45 a.m., for an arrival towards 9:15.
- Le new site is closer from the city center than before, which facilitates access while remaining in a setting rural and peaceful.
- The journey takes place in the back of a pickup, with some possible bumps on country roads.
- If you come in winter (November to February), plan a long-sleeved garment : mornings can be very fresh at this season.
Getting to know elephants
Upon arrival, you'll discover a hilly landscape dotted with pineapples, while the valley is filled with rice paddies . Even before you spot the elephants, you'll be greeted by a pack of dogs . Don't be intimidated: most of them are just as adorable as the elephants!
It should be noted that beyond the elephant sanctuary , Elephant Steps also houses around forty dogs , as well as horses, cows, donkeys, chickens, geese, ducks and goats … in short, a real haven for the animals rescued by Sophie.
Short briefing and welcome coffee
After a short briefing , we begin with a relaxing coffee break . It's a chance to chat with the other participants before the experience starts. The sanctuary favors small groups , and I've never seen more than 15 people there on the same day.
Meeting the Horde
Once awake, it's time to meet the elephants . For a long time, three female elephants lived here:
- Mélanie, almost 50 years old,
- Gypsy, his daughter, a 25-year-old,
- Menoune, almost 40 years old.
For a time, an old elephant, Metta , also lived here. I was lucky enough to meet her before she went to elephant heaven after spending a few months with Sophie.
Since then, a fourth elephant , Mélina , has joined the herd. At around thirty years old , she is still young for her species – as a reminder, an elephant can live as long as we do.
First contact with elephants
Initial contact is made through feeding : they are given fruit and vitamins, which are just a small snack for them. This is a key moment, as it allows the elephants to establish a positive connection with us.
Next, we put on a Karen outfit provided for the day, and once everyone is ready, we set off . A group of dogs naturally follows us and accompanies us throughout the walk in the forest.
Jungle walk with elephants
Here, the elephants set the pace . They are completely free, setting off at their own speed, accompanied by their mahout (designated guardian, also called cornac). We simply follow them, observing their behavior in their natural environment.
The last two times I did this hike, it was during the dry season , so the trail was fairly easy. However, during the rainy season, the provided boots will be very useful, and you'll need to be more careful of slippery surfaces. That said, the terrain is less demanding than the previous location, where the climb was a bit more challenging.
We soon crossed a bamboo forest , which was a veritable open-air restaurant for our four-legged friends. They stopped regularly to nibble, and with their appetites, it's no wonder: an elephant can eat 200 to 300 kg of vegetation per day! This gave us plenty of time to observe their behavior.
Even without knowing that Mélanie and Gypsie are mother and daughter, one notices that they often stay close together, while Ménoune prefers to go at her own pace. But since elephants are very sociable animals, there is no tension in the group; they move about in perfect harmony.
After less than an hour of walking, we arrive at the only slightly tricky section: a descent that crosses a stream, or the only area that can be muddy at this time of year (it must be trickier in the rainy season). Nothing too bad, but it's best to watch your footing and be careful with your shoes.
While we're careful with our shoes, the elephants are taking advantage of the place to smear themselves with earth, a natural technique to protect themselves from the sun and insects. A true "sunscreen" ritual, pachyderm style!
Lunch break by the water
It's always impressive to see how easily the elephants move around in this environment. A few minutes later, it's already lunchtime.
As expected, the meal is entirely vegetarian, in keeping with the sanctuary's values. Everything is prepared in advance and beautifully arranged with rice and fruit on the side on banana leaves. A real treat.
Lunch is served on bamboo benches set up at the edge of a reservoir. After a hearty meal, a bamboo raft ride is offered to enjoy the surroundings. Meanwhile, homemade tea is prepared and small elephants are carved onto our bamboo cups, a unique souvenir to take home with you.
During this break, the elephants roam freely around the area . We are clearly told that this is their time, and that it is important to maintain a certain distance. Outside of this break time, there is no problem staying near them at other times of the day.
The dogs, meanwhile, stayed close by, as adorable as ever. One of them, particularly affectionate, even used to stop and watch us, as if to say, "Are you okay? Are you coping?"—a real little companion.
Return and moment of relaxation
After a well-deserved break of about an hour , it's time to resume the walk . The return journey is either via the same path or along a dirt road that runs alongside a rice paddy and a pineapple plantation. In both cases, you'll arrive back at the farm around 14:30 pm.
Last stop: swimming and refreshment
Before arriving, we make one last stop near a pond, which sometimes serves as an impromptu swimming pool for the elephants. Depending on their mood, they might decide to take a dip – or not! Meanwhile, you can also refresh yourself with a small beer (available for purchase on site) or try a glass of local rice whisky.
One last moment with the elephants
Back at the farm, you still have a moment to enjoy the elephants , say goodbye to them and observe their last moments of freedom before changing and hitting the road again in the pickup truck.
After a busy day, you'll arrive at your hotel around 16 p.m. And if you believe visitor reviews, this experience leaves lasting memories, both for the encounter with the elephants and the unique atmosphere of the sanctuary.
Conclusion: Don't forget the elephants of Chiang Rai
It wasn't the first time I'd spent time with elephants, but these days always remain just as memorable . The great atmosphere of the group (often French speakers, but not exclusively) contributes to this, but above all, this privileged contact with nature and animals is a unique experience.
Through this article, I also wanted to remind people that Chiang Rai isn't just the city and its White Temple . Many visitors, due to time constraints, only make a fleeting, one-day visit on a day trip from Chiang Mai. As a result, they miss out on places like the Elephant Steps , while favoring the neighboring region, which, while beautiful, is far more touristy.
In Chiang Mai, elephant sanctuaries are numerous, sometimes too numerous, as the trend has taken hold. Conversely, Chiang Rai offers a more intimate approach , with more authentic experiences , far from the crowds.
So, be curious . Chiang Rai isn't just Wat Rong Khun and its city center. It's a whole province just waiting to be explored.
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