Ban Gioc, the largest waterfalls in Vietnam

Our visit to Cao Bang was with the sole aim of taking a trip to the Ban Gioc Falls, these waterfalls which, like Niagara Falls or Iguazu Falls to name just these two, are located on a border, in this case here, between Vietnam and China.

It was also an opportunity to explore the province of Cao Bang a little and visit a not uninteresting cave and landscapes that were always so pleasant.

Ban Gioc Falls, a little paradise Chino – Viet

To reach these famous falls, it is a 90 km journey from Cao Bang to the border, which must be done, along a beautiful road, often considered one of the most beautiful in northern Vietnam.

This is done in more or less 3 different stages. A first one is quite short, which runs along a river and passes by a slightly bumpy road between small mountains. After a series of bends and a few straighter lines, we pass by the small pass of Ma Phuc (horse's elbow...), which reaches just 525 m above the sea (but there is a beautiful view at the top).

Finally, the last part is a flatter and easier road because there are few bends. In total, count 2 short hours (photo stops included 😉 ) to reach your destination.

Among the stops, we will make one especially towards the end, because one of the "attractions" of the region are these bamboo wheels that are used for irrigation. And the surrounding landscape had a certain soothing quality, between the river that flows peacefully, the mountain peaks that mark this valley and the horses that quietly graze the fresh grass in the middle of said river, I am conquered.

But that was nothing compared to what awaited us some 6 km later. It was the same river we were following earlier and the same one that falls from a height of 30 m over 3 floors, the Ban Gioc Falls.

And seeing this fabulous scenery that opens up to us from the side of the road, there again my eyes twitch.

Before our astonished eyes was this little paradise, with China opposite. A little anecdote, I was thinking that it was the first time for my part that I was going to see Chinese people in their country…

To my great surprise, I thought the place was more frequented and more developed for tourism, since it is one of the main attractions of Vietnam (and being used to the "Thai" style), but no, at most a few souvenir shops, deserted when we passed, are lined up along the small path leading to the foot of the falls.

And what a fall. It's even more impressive as we get closer. The river separates us by only 100 m from our neighbors opposite, who are much more numerous. We can clearly see that on the Chinese side, there is more development, we can see a hotel, a platform at the level of the first floor, etc.

It is possible to access the first floor and go to the top, on the Vietnamese side, you have to take a small path as I push you. I would go alone, driven by my curiosity and my desire for different angles for the photo. I was served!

The biggest presence of people around this place was this group of students listening to a professor's speech at the foot of the left part of the waterfall, which is a little separated from the big main part.

When I made my escapade up there, I only came across a few cows and further away, a local taking a bath, traquilou bilou.

I remain amused for a moment by the sweep of boats filled with Chinese people, who approach as close as possible to the falls, while on the Vietnamese side, the boatmen twiddle their thumbs a little...

We stayed for more than 1h30 in total, with this intense heat, despite all this water around us, it was time to go and find a little freshness, next stop, the Nguom Ngao cave.

Nguom Ngao Cave

Just before the falls is the Ngom Ngao cave, considered the second most beautiful in the country after Phong Nha. It stretches for 3 kilometers, apparently up to the falls. The part that can be visited is lit and includes a huge room over 100 m long.

The access itself has its charm. First we pass in front of villages with pretty stone houses, along a path passing between the mountains. Then because we crossed a large cornfield, lodged between the mountains like a secret corner, because there is no access road in this small valley, the stairs from the parking lot being the only access (apart from the small local paths leading to isolated houses in the area)

While we were paying our ticket, a group of Vietnamese were busy playing cards with enthusiasm. (apart from the small local paths leading to isolated houses in the area)

I have to say that I didn't expect much when I went there, just that it was one of the tourist attractions in the area and after all, we were passing by.

Well, I have to say that I was rather pleasantly surprised. Without being "overwhelming" either, it has an undeniable atmosphere and charm, its relevant lighting certainly having a lot to do with it. I enjoyed wandering around during these 45 minutes that our visit lasted.

There weren't many people, we just passed a group of Vietnamese tourists before us, but we were essentially alone in the cave, fully enjoying the place and its atmosphere.

And there, it's the drama...

It was then that I was moving away from the cave, taking this little dirt road again, that THE problem of this trip occurred... We had already covered a large majority of the route and had reached almost 900 km in our legs, without any notable problems.

But a little hen changed everything... Anyone would say coldly, "yeah the hen, too bad for her, don't hesitate, it's her or you."

Except that at the time, I was going, but really not fast, so a little brake seemed quite natural to me... Except that firstly, it was a dirt and gravel road... And what's more, by reflex at the time, I used the front brake.

The result is clear and I didn't see it coming, BAM, here we are sliding to the side. Last mistake, the most fatal I would say, as I wasn't going fast, I tried to hold the bike in my fall.

There I am, my head flat on the ground, I thank my helmet while still thinking a few curses in my head as the motorcycle crushes my leg.

It all happened in front of a house where some villagers first looked at us incredulously before helping us to lift the motorbike, which was not really badly damaged, not even my wife, who was barely scratched.

I felt a slight pain in my chest and, more importantly, a sharper one in my right elbow. I felt like my wrist was going to suffer in the coming days.

This won't stop me from finishing the trip. But I quickly felt frustrated, because my arm was preventing me from taking pictures properly (yes, everyone has their own priorities...) and braking was painful when using my right hand.

For the record, 15 days after that, when we returned to Thailand, my elbow was turning yellow, I decided to have a check-up at the hospital, what was the outcome? I had still cracked the bone at the elbow (at the ulna) as well as a rib at the sternum… ouch!

A way of reminding you that the north of Vietnam is really worth it and that if you are not used to motorcycling, it may be wiser to call on a the specialized agency Comptoir des voyages and/or prefer the car…

So, still tempted by motorcycling in the north of Vietnam?