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Bolovens Express: 3 must-see waterfalls for a glimpse of the plateau in one day

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Let's imagine this scenario: You're in Pakse, with only one day left, and the desire to explore the Bolaven Plateau. What should you do? Where should you start?
With its many waterfalls and country roads, the Bolovens Plateau is well worth several days... That's why it's generally visited as a loop from Pakse, lasting between 2 and 4 days.

But if, like my first time here, that's not possible, there's still a way to get a good overview. Here's what I was able to do, in a very quick version!

My express itinerary: how I organized my day

To put this shortened visit into context, I was in the region for my visa renewal . And since I was leaving Thailand anyway, I generally like to take the opportunity to explore some of the neighboring countries , depending on which embassy I choose for this purpose (Laos or Malaysia).

Although I could have planned more days to explore, it was mainly my limited budget that prompted me to stay for a short period — knowing that I then had to get to Savannakhet , where the Thai embassy is located.

Originally, I had two free days around Pakse . I could have considered the small loop, but as I wanted to go to Vat Phou , the other must-see in the region (I actually talked about it in a separate article ), it already "ate up" a whole day, since it is not at all in the same direction as the Bolaven Plateau.

So I thought that a good compromise would be, if I didn't do a loop, to still discover some of the emblematic waterfalls of the Bolovens plateau... without rushing too much.

And to be honest: I left late. But even with half a day cut short, the route remains largely doable, since I managed to link three sites in two different areas , without feeling like I was rushing.

Mission accomplished , then — and proof that in just one day, you can already get a good overview of the plateau. And if you leave earlier than me, you'll have plenty of time to see even more.

Here is my itinerary for the day , step by step:

1. Departure (late) from Pakse

Normally, it's recommended to leave around 7:30–8:00 am to avoid the heat and make the most of the place. Me? I'm not always a morning person… So I left leisurely Pakse around noon, after having brunch at Vida Bakery Café (which I highly recommend if you're ever in the area).

Allow approximately 45 minutes to reach the Tad Fane / Tad Yuang area , via a paved road that is fairly straight and without difficulty.

Vida Bakery Cafe Pakxe Laos
Vida Bakery Café in Pakse.

2. Tad Fane & Tad Yuang: an unmissable duo

The two waterfalls are 5 minutes apart , making them a perfect combination.

  • Tad Fane, the most impressive on the plateau, offers a spectacular view of two falls over 100 meters highIt is also famous for its zipline allowing you to fly over it.
  • Tad Yuang allows you to descend to the foot of the waterfall. It's a nice spot to take your time and relax in the cool air.

3. Direction Tad Pha Suam

After this first area towards Paksong, I headed back towards Pakse but turned off halfway to reach Tad Pha Suam , located along the road climbing north of the plateau. It takes about an hour to get there from Tad Yuang.

The waterfall is lower, but the setting remains pleasant: its unusual U-shape , its footbridge, and an ethnic village nearby. Perfect for a final nature stop before heading back.

4. Return to Pakse in the late afternoon

From Tad Pha Suam , I had about a 45-minute drive back to Pakse, with no traffic jams or particular difficulties—but with a stunning sunset as a bonus. The sun sets quite early at this time of year, which is another constraint to keep in mind.

Map / Route overview

First Stop – Tad Fane Waterfall

When I leave Pakse, I soon find myself speeding along a beautiful paved road. I note this because a road in good condition is still quite rare in Laos : generally, as soon as you leave the cities, there are often potholes or missing sections… But here, in addition to going straight, I encounter no particular obstacles, and there are few cars on the road.

It takes me about 45 minutes to reach the sign indicating the path to the parking lot for the first waterfall of this day's exploration. As it's a major site, there's an entrance fee : 30,000 kip (less than $2 at the current exchange rate), plus another 5,000 kip to park your motorbike.

There, you can relax in a local café with a terrace, while a short staircase leads to the viewpoint overlooking the double waterfall that makes up Tad Fane . From recent photos I've seen, the café has been enlarged and the site has been significantly upgraded and nicely landscaped.

The landscape is quite magnificent, lush and green, and seeing these two columns of water spring so abruptly from the forest in front of me is a truly unique experience. The water plunges over 100 meters here, but you can't really get any closer—unless you opt for the zipline.

Because yes, that's also what makes this site unique, along with this local attraction : suspended ziplines that allow you to literally fly over the falls . Thrills guaranteed. Personally, I hesitated, because I imagined the incredible view it must offer. But the $40 price tag put me off a bit… so I just watched.

Opening hours: 8:00 a.m. to 17:00 p.m. Although this is a natural site, access will normally be restricted outside of these hours.
Entrance fee: 30 kips
Parking: 5 kips
Zipline: $40

Second stop – Tad Yuang Waterfall

I stayed at Tad Fane for just about twenty minutes, then I went on to the next waterfall: Tad Yuang (spelled Tad Yeung on Google Maps). This one is located on another path that branches off to the right of the road, just a few minutes from Tad Fane.

Here again, a sign clearly indicates the site and the distance to travel from the road: 800 m . When I passed through, the path was not paved, and the sign specifically advised driving slowly — gravel being what it is, it can quickly become treacherous.

entrance path leading to tad yuang waterfall laospath leading to tad yuang waterfall laosupper part of tad yuang waterfall laos

After paying the entrance fee and parking, I set off on the path leading to the waterfall. The site is divided into two parts . In the upper section, you reach the riverbank via a small bridge. There are several thatched huts there, serving as shelters for picnics. I even came across a family enjoying the beautiful sunny day.

Continuing downhill, a steep path leads to the base of Tad Yuang. The waterfall is about 40 meters high , making it a notable cascade—less imposing than Tad Fane, certainly, but the setting is just as beautiful.

An observation post has been set up on a ridge overlooking the falls, which here too splits into two distinct streams , although they are much closer together than at Tad Fane. With the droplets thrown into the air, a rainbow sometimes forms at the base of the falls. A small path continues behind the observation post to reach the riverbank, which then disappears into the virgin forest.

After taking a few photos and enjoying the cool air, I witnessed the arrival of a father and his two sons, who had come to fish with nets right at the foot of this peaceful natural spot. I ended up lingering there much longer than at Tad Fane— Tad Yuang had “held” me for almost an hour.

Opening hours: 8:00 a.m. to 17:00 p.m. Same as above.
Entrance fee: 20 kips
Parking: 5 kips

Last stop – Pha Suam Waterfall

To give you an idea of ​​the timing, I leave Tad Yuang shortly before 14:30 pm. But as I then change sectors, I set off for a short hour's drive to reach the next waterfall, Pha Suam , which requires me to first return towards Pakse , before turning onto the road that goes up to the north.

Note that further along this road is another waterfall not to be missed, Tad Lo — but it was too far for my little day trip.

river crossing Bolovens plateau Laos
On the road near Pha Suam Waterfall.

The road leading to the waterfall is quite rough compared to the main road, but with careful driving, it's manageable. Again, there 's an entrance fee for the site , as well as for the parking.

When I arrive, a few vendors are lined up along the path , offering fruit, almonds, or even roasted sweet potato . While at the first two waterfalls I had encountered almost exclusively local visitors, here I see a group of foreign tourists leaving as I arrive.

Once again, the waterfall is located in a forest environment. But here, it is not its height that impresses — it barely exceeds 6 meters — rather it is distinguished by several particularities.

Starting with its shape: a horseshoe carved into a rocky cirque , rather photogenic. Access to the main viewpoint is via a pretty woven bamboo bridge , which offers a beautiful perspective of the falls.

And then, right next to the waterfall, there's also a small reconstructed "ethnic village ." You can see a few traditional houses representing different local ethnic groups, like the Laven or the Alak . Let's just say it's more of a display for visitors than a real inhabited village—but it's still nice to walk through for the atmosphere.

It's a chance to see some local crafts , with the weavers, or even the grandfather who gave me a little demonstration of his traditional instrument. Above all, it's a great way to see typical local clothing and, for me, to meet people and take some portraits (as a reminder, Lao is very close to Thai, which allowed me to approach them and chat — and not just take their picture without asking for permission).

In the end, I spent twice as much time in the "village" as I did seeing the waterfall itself. I stayed there for almost an hour before having to return to avoid arriving at night. It would take me less than an hour to get back to Pakse, despite numerous photo stops.

I always find interesting scenes that encourage me to pull over, whether it's to immortalize some unusual scenes along the road like this convoy of big motorcycles, or this cultivator transporting an entire family.

I also take advantage of crossing these rural areas to take some pictures of houses and rural life around, where smiles are never far away, whether from adults or children, that's the magic of Laos!

Shortly before arriving, I was treated to a superb sunset with very orange colors. I couldn't help it, and I stopped again to take a few more photos.

Opening hours: 8 a.m. – 00 p.m.
Entrance fee: 10 kips
Parking: 5 kips
Ethnic “village” reconstructed next door
Bamboo bridge + wild setting

Practical tips for this express loop

Scooter or car rental: In Pakse, renting a small semi-automatic motorcycle (like a Honda Wave) generally costs 130,000 kip per day (about €6). For an automatic scooter (like a Honda Click 125cc), expect to pay around €9. If you're not comfortable on two wheels, you can find cars for around € 30 to €40 per day. The section of the loop described here is generally in good condition, without any particular difficulties.

The recommended places for rental are Miss Noy and her Belgian boss ( see address ), or Bolaven trail motorbike rental shop and its boss, Xavier , who, in addition to automatic scooters, is the only one with real motocross bikes if you plan to do a lot of off-road riding.

Timing: Even leaving after lunch, it's possible to see all three waterfalls without rushing. By leaving early in the morning, you can easily add one or two more waterfalls, such as Tad Champee or Tad E-Tu, located near Tad Fane, or even consider including Tad Lo or another waterfall further east (like Elephant Head Waterfall).

Ideal season: Visit between July and December (or early January at the latest). The best time is November (as seen in my photos) and December. During the dry season, particularly from February to April, some waterfalls may be dry or less impressive.

Lunch break : you'll find plenty of places to grab a bite around the waterfalls, especially near Tad Fane with a few small restaurants and cafes. I recommend Lava Café, for example, perfect for a coffee break or a quick lunch.

Entrance fees: nothing exorbitant, each waterfall charges a small entrance fee (and often a little for parking), but the total rarely exceeds €2.

In conclusion: a quick overview... which makes you want to go back

In the end, even leaving late and without much planning, this day on the Bolaven Plateau gave me a great overview of what the region has to offer without even feeling like I was "rushing".

With three waterfalls in two different areas, generally few people and pleasant weather, what more could you ask for! Obviously, it doesn't replace the real loop , which requires a minimum of two and up to three or four days, which allows you to better enjoy the small roads, stopping in villages, discovering coffee plantations and more remote waterfalls.

But for a short version accessible from Paksé, It's a route that works perfectly.
And of course… it makes you want to come back and explore further.

What's next? I finally got around to it! A longer, more personal version of the Bolovens Loop, far from the classic route.

→ The article is available here!

 

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