Bolovens Express: 3 must-see waterfalls for a glimpse of the plateau in one day

Let's imagine this scenario: You're in Pakse, with only one day left, and the desire to explore the Bolaven Plateau. What should you do? Where should you start?
With its many waterfalls and country roads, the Bolovens Plateau is well worth several days... That's why it's generally visited as a loop from Pakse, lasting between 2 and 4 days.

But if, like my first time here, that's not possible, there's still a way to get a good glimpse. Here's what I was able to do, in express version!

My express itinerary: how I organized my day

To put the reason for this short visit into context, I was staying in the region as part of my visa renewal. And if I have to leave Thailand, I generally like it take the opportunity to discover a little of the neighboring countries, depending on which embassy I choose for this (Laos or Malaysia).

Even though, in itself, I could plan more days to explore, it is mainly my limited budget which encouraged me to stay for a short period of time - knowing that I would then have to join Savannakhet, where the Thai embassy is located.

Basically, I had two free days around Pakse. I could have considered the small loop, but as I wanted to get to the Vat Phou, the other must-see in the region (I also talked about it in a separate article), it already “ate up” a whole day, since it is not at all in the same direction as the Bolovens plateau.

So I thought that a good compromise would be, if I didn't do a loop, to still discover some of the emblematic waterfalls of the Bolovens plateau... without rushing too much.

And let's be honest: I left late. But even with half a day cut short, the route remains largely doable, since I managed to connect three sites in two different areas, without feeling rushed.

Successful mission, so — and proof that in just one day, you can already have a nice overview of the plateau. And if you leave earlier than me, you will have plenty of room to see more.

so here's my daily schedule, step by step :

1. Departure (late) from Pakse

Normally, it is recommended to go towards 7:30–8:XNUMX a.m. to avoid the heat and make the most of the place. Me? I'm not always a morning person... So I left Grandpa Pakse toward midi, after having brunch at Vida Bakery Café (which I recommend if you are passing through the area).

Allow about 45 minute drive to reach the area of Tad Fane / Tad Yuang, by a paved road, fairly straight and without difficulty.

Vida Bakery Café in Pakse.

2. Tad Fane & Tad Yuang: an unmissable duo

The two waterfalls are at 5 minutes apart, which makes it a perfect combination.

• Tad Fane, the most impressive on the plateau, offers a spectacular view of two falls over 100 meters highIt is also famous for its zipline allowing you to fly over it.
• Tad Yuang allows you to descend to the foot of the waterfall. It's a nice spot to take your time and relax in the cool air.

3. Direction Tad Pha Suam

After this first area towards Paksong, I returned towards Paksé but I turned off halfway to join Tad Pha Suam, located along the road going up to the north of the plateau. It is necessary to count 1h to get there from Tad Yuang.

The waterfall is lower, but the setting remains pleasant: its atypical U-shape, its gateway, and an ethnic village next door. Perfect for a last nature stop before heading back.

4. Return to Pakse in the late afternoon

From Tad Pha Suam, I had left about 45 minutes road to return to Pakse, without traffic jams or particular difficulty - but with a beautiful sunset as a bonus. The sun sets quite early at this time, which is still a another constraint to keep in mind.

Map / Route overview

First Stop – Tad Fane Waterfall

When I leave Pakse, I quickly find myself driving along a beautiful tarmac road. I note this down, because a road in good condition, it remains quite rare in Laos : in general, as soon as you leave the cities, there are often potholes or missing sections... But here, in addition to going straight, I don't encounter any particular obstacles, and there are few cars driving around.

I need about 3/4 hour to reach the sign indicating the path to follow to reach the parking lot of the first waterfall of this day of exploration. As this is a major site, access is chargeable : 30 kips (not even $000 at the current rate), to which you have to add 2 kips to park your motorcycle.

On site, you can sit in a local café with a terrace, while a short staircase leads to the viewpoint of this double waterfall which makes up Tad Fane. From the recent photos I've seen, the cafe has been expanded and the site has been upgraded quite a bit and nicely furnished.

The landscape is quite grandiose, very green, and to see these two columns of water spring so abruptly from the forest The waterfall in front of me gives a rather unique impression. The water here tumbles down over 100 meters, but you can't really get any closer—unless you opt for the zip line.

Because yes, that's also what makes this site unique, with this local attraction : suspended ziplines that allow you to literally fly over the falls. Thrills guaranteed. Personally, I hesitated, because I imagined the crazy view it would offer. But the $40 price put me off a bit... so I just watched.

Second stop – Tad Yuang Waterfall

I stayed at Tad Fane for just about twenty minutes, then I continued with the next waterfall: Tad Yuang (spelled Tad Yeung on Google Maps). The latter is located on another path that branches off to the right of the road, just a few minutes from Tad Fane.

Again, a sign clearly indicates the site and the distance to travel from the road: 800 m. When I passed, the road was not paved, and the sign specifically specified to drive slowly — gravel obliges, it can quickly become a pain.

After paying the entrance fee and parking, I set off on the path leading to the waterfall. The site is organized in two parts. On the upper part, you can access the riverbank via a small bridge. There are several thatched-roof huts serving as picnic shelters. I even came across a family there enjoying this beautiful sunny day.

Continuing down, a path abrupt allows you to reach the base of Tad Yuang. The waterfall measures approximately 40 meters high, which makes it a notable fall—less imposing than Tad Fane, certainly, but the setting is just as pretty.

An observation post was set up on a ridge facing the waterfall, which, again, divides into two distinct streams of water, even though they are much closer to each other than at Tad Fane. With the droplets projected into the air, a rainbow sometimes forms at the foot of the waterfall. A small path continues behind the observatory to access the edge of the river, which then plunges into the virgin forest.

Time to take some photos and enjoy the coolness, I witness the arrival of a father and his two sons, who came net fishing right at the foot of this very peaceful natural spot. I'll hang around there much longer than at Tad Fane — Tad Yuang “kept” me for almost an hour on site.

Last stop – Pha Suam Waterfall

To give an idea of ​​the timing, I start from Tad Yuang shortly before 14:30 p.m. But as I am changing sectors, I am leaving for a short hour's drive in order to reach the next waterfall, Pha Suam, which forces me to first return in the direction of Pakse, before turning onto the road that goes up north.

Note that further along this road there is another waterfall not to be missed, Tad Lo — but it was too far away for my little day trip.

On the road near Pha Suam Waterfall.

The road leading to the waterfall from the main road is quite damaged, but if you drive carefully, it's easy to get through. After that, again, the site is paid, just like the parking lot.

When I arrive, some saleswomen are lined up along the path, offering fruits, almonds, or even grilled sweet potato. If, on the first two waterfalls, I had almost only met local visitors, here I see a group of foreign tourists leave the premises upon my arrival.

Again, the waterfall is located in a forest environment. But here, it's not his height which impresses - it hardly exceeds the 6 meters —, it is rather distinguished by several peculiarities.

Starting with its shape: a horseshoe dug into a rocky cirque, rather photogenic. Access to the main viewpoint is via a pretty woven bamboo bridge, which gives a beautiful perspective on the fall.

And then, right next to the waterfall, we also find a small reconstructed “ethnic village”. There are some traditional houses representing different local ethnic groups, such as the Make a or Form. Let's say it is plus a staging for visitors than a real inhabited village - but it's still nice to explore for the atmosphere.

This is the opportunity to meet a few people therelocal crafts, with its weavers, or even this grandfather who gave me a little demo of his traditional instrument. It's especially a good way to see typical local outfits and, for me, of meet people and take some portraits (as a reminder, Laotian is very close to Thai, which allowed me to approach them while chatting - and not just take their portrait without asking for my change).

In the end, I spent twice as much time in the "village" as I did seeing the waterfall itself. I stayed there for almost an hour before having to return to avoid arriving at night. It would take me less than an hour to get back to Pakse, despite numerous photo stops.

I always find interesting scenes that encourage me to pull over, whether it's to immortalize some unusual scenes along the road like this convoy of big motorcycles, or this cultivator transporting an entire family.

I also take advantage of crossing these rural areas to take some pictures of houses and rural life around, where smiles are never far away, whether from adults or children, that's the magic of Laos!

Shortly before arriving, I was treated to a superb sunset with very orange colors. I couldn't help it, and I stopped again to take a few more photos.

Practical tips for this express loop

Scooter or car rental: in Pakse, the rental of small semi-automatic motorcycle (Honda Wave type) generally comes back to 130 kips per day (around €6). For a automatic scooter (like a Honda Click 125cc) you should expect to pay around €9. If you are not comfortable on two wheels, you will find Car around 30 to 40 € the day. The portion of the loop covered here is generally in good condition, without any particular difficulty.

The references for rental are Miss Noy and his Belgian boss (see the address), Or Bolaven trail motorbike rental shop and his boss, Xavier, which, in addition to automatic scooters, is the only one with real motocross bikes if you plan to do a lot of off-roading.

timing: Even if you leave after lunch, it's possible to see all three waterfalls without rushing. By leaving early in the morning, you can easily add one or two waterfalls, such as Tad Champee or Tad E-Tu, located near Tad Fane, or even consider including Tad Lo or another waterfall further to the east (such as Elephant Head Waterfall).

Ideal season: It is best to visit between July and December (or early January at the latest). The best time is November (my photos) and December. In the dry season, especially from February to April, some waterfalls may be dry or much less impressive.

Lunch break : You'll find plenty to eat around the waterfalls, especially near Tad Fane, with a few small restaurants and cafes. I recommend the Lava Café, for example, which is perfect for a coffee break or a quick lunch.

Inputs: nothing ruinous, each waterfall takes a small entrance fee (and often a little for parking), but the total rarely exceeds €2.

In conclusion: a quick overview... which makes you want to go back

In the end, even leaving late and without much planning, this day on the Bolovens plateau gave me a great overview of what the region has to offer without even having the sensation of “running”.

With three waterfalls in two different areas, generally few people and pleasant weather, what more could you ask for! Obviously, it does not replace the real loop, which requires a minimum of two and up to three or four days, which allows you to better enjoy the small roads, stopping in villages, discovering coffee plantations and more remote waterfalls.

But for a short version accessible from Paksé, It's a route that works perfectly.
And of course… it makes you want to come back and explore further.