Each year, for a short period, Khao Khitchakut becomes one of the most frequented pilgrimage sites in eastern Thailand (and even one of the most popular in the entire country). This pilgrimage leads to Khao Phra Bat, one of the high points of the Khao Khitchakut National Park, in the province of Chanthaburi, which I am particularly fond of.
Mount Khao Phra Bat is home to a sacred and highly revered Buddha footprint, to which devotees attribute powers of protection, healing, and wish fulfillment. A short climb on paper, but far from insignificant in reality, offering a unique experience in Buddhist devotion.
A pilgrimage accessible only two months a year
The Khao Khitchakut pilgrimage is only accessible during a short period of the year, usually from late January to March / early April (depending on the year). The rest of the time, access to the summit is completely closed, but the rest of Khao Khitchakut National Park, which includes some waterfalls, remains open.
This very limited opening is primarily due to safety reasons: during the rainy season, the mountain becomes slippery, muddy, and simply too dangerous to accommodate crowds.
In addition to this, there is a significant logistical constraint. The ascent requires daily 4x4 pickup trucks, strict flow management, rescue teams, rest areas, vendors, and a whole support system that is impossible to maintain over a long period.
The pilgrimage calendar generally falls within the same period as makhabucha, one of the major Buddhist festivals in Thailand, celebrated in February. Even though the dates are not officially linked, this proximity naturally reinforces the spiritual significance of the ascension.
Result Over these few weeks, crowds from all over the country converge on Chanthaburi, sometimes numbering in the tens of thousands during peak periods. especially on weekendsThis temporary nature further enhances the intensity of the experience, making the ascent a unique moment, almost “outside of time”.
Although the opening period is strictly limited in the year, once the pilgrimage has started, the ascent can theoretically be done 24 hours a day, which also explains why some choose to climb it at night.
To put things in context, we first went during the height of the Covid pandemic. The site had opened as usual, but given the circumstances, the crowds were practically nonexistent. Furthermore, we went two days before closing time, when the majority of pilgrims had already made the journey—ideal conditions, therefore, for discovering this preserved place.
We were able to quickly compare by repeating the experiment the following year, precisely at night, with attendance returning to normal.
A short but very physical climb
For many devotees, the ascent is more than just a visit. Climbing the mountain is an integral part of their spiritual journey. Reaching the footprint allows them to "gain merit" (tham bun), a key concept in Thai Buddhism, linked to karma and good deeds. The greater the effort, the greater the merit is considered to be.
And even though most of the ascent is done by pickup truck, the final stretch on foot is experienced as a truly symbolic passage, a way to push one's limits. The physical effort is directly linked to the religious experience, to the point that some call the climb the "Stairway to Heaven"—"the staircase to paradise," in a more colloquial French version, like the famous Led Zeppelin song.
The starting points of the ascent
Officially, the Chanthaburi city, located 30 km away, can serve as a drop-off point and therefore a starting point for this pilgrimage, since vans and pickups leave from the bus station.
But if, like me, you have a motorized vehicle, you can sleep in the area directly and reach one of the three or four temples at the foot of the mountain from where the round trips by pickup truck are organized to the starting point of the hike.
The first time, we went to Wat Krating (วัดกะทิง) (photos above), located 5 km downstream from the temple we used the following year, Wat Phluang (วัดพลวง). The latter being the closest to the mountain, it became the true nerve center of the Khao Khitchakut pilgrimage.
As it is also the most important transport service in the area, you will find a whole host of temporary restaurants and souvenir shops, making the place particularly lively; enough to get you right into the swing of things in terms of atmosphere.
The ride in a pickup truck to the starting point of the hike
Regardless of your starting point, the process is the same. First, you must purchase a transport ticket, valid for a round trip, bearing in mind that The price is 200 baht per person for a round trip. (40 baht for Thais).
The pickup trucks, those famous "songthaews", usually leave every 5 to 15 minutes Once they're full, each 4x4 can carry 8 to 12 passengers depending on the model and its configuration. You'll see that the pickups are numbered, but this is mainly to facilitate traffic flow and the organization of rotations.
Once there, you're simply directed to the next available vehicle, and on the return trip, you generally just need to hop on another pickup from the queue, without worrying about a specific number. However, on days of very high demand, your ticket will have a number. This number doesn't correspond to the vehicle, but to your call number: it's what determines your place in the queue.
From Wat Phluang, you quickly reach the base of the dam, which you then ascend via a road that runs alongside the impressive structure. Shortly after, vehicles stop at the forest ranger's post, as payment is required. the entrance to the national park separately from transport (200 baht for foreigners).
Then we left for a journey of approximately 30 minutesIt quickly becomes clear why these cars are necessary. The forest road leading to Khao Phra Bat is steep and, above all, in poor condition (dirt road), so no private vehicles are allowed on it.
It's an adventure in itself: over the approximately 5 km climb, you go from about 120 m altitude at the starting station to nearly 850 m at the arrival station, representing an average gradient of around 14%.
A little anecdote: While in Thailand they normally drive on the left, here they alternate… Depending on the section and the curves, they alternate between left and right, depending on the road conditions. Drivers obviously warn each other by honking before each curve to avoid any collisions. Often, vehicles passing each other give pilgrims a greeting.
It's a friendly atmosphere, with our current fellow travelers sometimes expressing themselves as if on a roller coaster, with exclamations when the pickup truck hits the gas pedal while starting a turn, gently jolting our bodies with the force of the thrusts.
The last kilometer on foot
Upon arrival, we were dropped off at a designated area, a reminder of just how well-oiled the machine has become. While I imagine there wasn't much here a few years ago, there are now several facilities (completely renovated between our two visits, by the way), in addition to the guard post. These include restrooms, snacks (mostly instant noodles), and water.
If you haven't already, bring something to drink before starting the final climb.
Two prayer areas are also set up at this starting point. The first is located at the foot of a tree, on a platform that serves somewhat as a roundabout, where pickup trucks can right themselves before beginning the descent. The other area is situated just to the right of the first steps of the ascent. It includes donation trees, as well as places to hang plaques to mark one's passage.
Given the physical exertion involved, there's also a first aid station with an ambulance ready to go if needed. To truly grasp the level of difficulty, it's important to understand that the trail starts at an altitude of approximately 850 meters and finishes just over 1,000 meters. In short, over barely 1,2 kilometers, you climb nearly 250 meters, resulting in an average gradient of around 20%—which is significant.
For this reason, porters are present at the starting point to accompany the most vulnerable people to the sacred place.
When you pass through this symbolic gate, made of white threads, you truly enter the spiritual part of the ascent. These sacred threads, called sai sin, are used in Buddhist rituals for protection, blessing, and the transmission of merit. You will encounter them throughout the climb.
The same applies to donation boxes that will be distributed throughout, knowing that the tradition is to give at least a little to each box if your wish has been granted.
We then set off on an ascent of approximately 50 minutes, including stops. The very first section consists of a series of brick steps; it remains fairly easy, allowing us to reach a first stop after about ten minutes.
Further along the path, another installation uses these white threads, this time around a golden statue representing a monk holding a ceremonial fan (As a reminder, no spike on the head = no Buddha). While this space was empty the first time—likely due to Covid—on our second visit, a monk was sitting beside him. He blessed those who paused for a few seconds. For even amidst the exertion, the pilgrimage remains ever-present.
Just a little further up, you pass through an area where several displays are concentrated: various statues (Buddhas, Ganesh, guardians of the Ramakien), but also columns of banknotes—often 20-baht notes—hanging freely everywhere. While I've grown accustomed to seeing banknotes displayed this way over the years, it's still disconcerting to see so much money in plain sight.
By moving slowly, we also take the time to observe our surroundings. That's how I came across a leaf grasshopper, perfectly camouflaged on a rock covered in gold leaf, to the point of blending completely with the scenery.
Even though it's just the beginning, these short stops offer a chance to catch your breath. The next section, still a series of steps, is lined with a long row of bells, the tradition of which, as you might guess, is to ring each one. A bucket with sticks is provided on either side of the row to ring them—this saves you from stubbing your fingers.
This is where things get tricky. The climb becomes more arduous, with a seemingly endless series of steps. To be more precise, it's not a continuous ascent (thankfully) but an alternation of sections that climb, others that descend slightly… with also some flat areas, always punctuated by new sets of bells (but not continuously).
From there, you start to get views of the valley, and the path splits in two, the flow of traffic sometimes being such that you absolutely need one side to go up and the other down. The first time, since it was very calm, we were able to alternate directions without a second thought, but if you commit to it on the day, I think it's impossible to go wrong.
After half an hour, still unaware that we were almost at the end, we arrived, after yet another series of steps, at what looked like a fork in the path. An unexpected passage, with a footbridge on the left leading into the trees to an area surrounded by rocks.
Here again, a monk is settled in a shelter, ready to bless passersby. At the end, a magnificent view opens up over the mountain, the valley and the end of the path we have just traveled.
A sign indicates that the small shrine placed at the edge of a rock is supposed to bring good fortune if you place your wallet (as the saying goes, nothing ventured, nothing gained…) in the hollow of a mark resembling a tiger's paw — hence these visible effigies.
Just before leaving this area, I spotted a beautiful rhinoceros beetle perched on a bed of moss, immediately catching my eye with its prehistoric, monster-like appearance. A surprising presence, but relatively logical in this jungle, which remains humid for much of the year, as evidenced by the numerous moss-covered rocks I'd encountered so far.
Back on the steps, we squeeze through a narrow passage between two large rocks, and after not even ten minutes, we realize that we are nearing our goal: the footprint of Buddha.
Khao Phra Bat and the Buddha's Footprint
Seeing this large rock balanced there, I can't help but draw a certain parallel with the golden rock of KyaiktiyoThe somewhat unusual access by vehicle is included. It has both a religious/pilgrimage aspect and a large rock standing out in the mountain. But the comparison ends there.
Here, the rock is less precariously balanced and is not covered in gold leaf as in the neighboring country. The other major difference, besides the seasonality, is that there isn't a whole mini-town that has sprung up around it: there's only one building used to house the monks who give blessings one after another, and a few kiosks for making all sorts of donations.
I don't know the exact history of this rock, but unlike the large carved Buddha footprints seen in some temples, this one isn't an elaborate or decorated representation of symbols. The imprint comes directly from the rock's natural shape, interpreted as sacred and consecrated over time by the faithful.
Then again, you have to admit that seeing this imposing rock sitting there, in the middle of nowhere, gives the place a unique feel. Since it was so peaceful that first time, we had plenty of time to approach and apply a gold leaf, as is the tradition. Be careful, though, because the slope at the foot of the large boulder is quite steep: in my socks, it made balancing down rather perilous.
Besides sticking on gold leaf, the local "game" involves wedging a coin into the rock's crevices. I decided to try it myself—I like leaving my mark, and that was my little challenge for the day. Between doing all that and taking the obligatory photos, we were there for about twenty minutes.
The red ribbons of Pha Daeng
Thinking I had explored everything, I then noticed that a path continued at the back of the site. A staircase initially led to a platform from which there was a plunging view of the rock and the expanse below.
The trail then continues, heading into the forest. It goes up and down slightly, but since you're generally on the ridge, it's less strenuous than the main climb... even if it still requires some effort.
We pass a first shrine where we find name plaques that worshippers (including us) sign before hanging them on white wires stretched between the trees, as well as a shelter housing several Buddha statues. From here, we once again enjoy a beautiful view of the mountain.
In the surrounding area, other shelters and small sanctuaries are scattered, some able to accommodate monks, others simply serving as places of prayer.
Continuing on, you reach a trickier section that plunges quite steeply downhill (complete with a helpful "caution" sign), before arriving at a slight plateau where there's a small first aid station. Just beyond, the trail climbs briefly and opens onto a new area.
Curiosity compels me to follow the various signs, which systematically lead to new places for quiet reflection. I pass under a large rock and come across a rug laid out at the foot of another rock: yet another prayer area.
In total, the route extends for approximately 300 meters to a specific point in the forest called “Pha Daeng,” which literally translates to “red cloths.” It is here that worshippers come to write a wish, their name, and the date of their visit on a red ribbon, before attaching it to branches or ropes stretched between the trees.
In Thailand, red is a color associated with protection (usually of the nation), passion, power, boldness, and wealth (especially for people of Chinese descent). It's also a color that can be associated with good fortune—hence the veritable forest of ribbons, which gives the place a rather striking atmosphere.
Of course, having reached this point, we both took the opportunity to add our own ribbons. It's impossible to know how often they're removed to make room, but in any case, we concluded our pilgrimage in style.
Without even realizing it, this round trip through the woods added a good hour to our stay in Khao Khitchakut. Before starting the descent, we made a mandatory stop at the large rock. We lingered a bit, soaking up the atmosphere of the place a little longer—unaware that we would return the following year.
While exploring the surroundings, I came across a small cavity wedged between two large boulders. A small group of people were there, deep in meditation.
I won't bother them for long: a few clicks, and we're out again. Time to get back to the pickup trucks. The journey is simpler this way, even if my knees and calves don't quite agree.
Khao Khitchakut at night: a different atmosphere
As my wife's wish had been granted, we set off again the following year towards Khao Khitchakut. As the first time, we deliberately chose to go there at the very end of the pilgrimage, two days before its conclusion.
And, to avoid as many people as possible, we increased our chances by going in the evening rather than during the day. So we left Bangkok at a leisurely pace in the early afternoon; it takes about 4 hours to reach Wat Phluang, which would be our starting point for the pickup truck tour.
The difference in crowds compared to last time is immediately noticeable, but the wait isn't long. We arrive at the start of the hike before nightfall, shortly after 18 p.m.
With the loudspeakers kicking in, the crowd growing larger, and the haze rapidly rolling in, the atmosphere is radically different. I notice along the route that it's much more "decorated," with ribbons everywhere and tickets dangling at each crossing point.
It's hard to say if it's "better" or "worse," because it's simply a different atmosphere: more lively, less contemplative than the almost unreal calm of the first time. It's probably closer to what usually happens there in terms of crowds, even though it was still quite manageable; you could move around without having to elbow your way through.
While the landscape is beautiful during the day, the mist at night creates a more contemplative atmosphere. Personally, I'm fascinated by the interplay of light that highlights the shadows of people and statues, and I enjoy the experience just as much as during the day.
Up at the top, we were practically enveloped in fog. Spotlights illuminated the passage, and the light diffused through the mist, creating an almost ghostly atmosphere. Since I wanted to capture this atmosphere, we returned to the same spots as during our first visit, including the extension towards Pha Daeng, where we tied a red ribbon once again.
However, contrary to appearances, since it was March, despite the mist and the altitude, it wasn't particularly cold. Before beginning the descent to conclude this V2 pilgrimage, we witnessed a joint ceremony with monks praying at the foot of the rock.
And after seeing so many people doing the same, we couldn't resist grabbing a small bowl of instant noodles to fill us up, since we'd gone up there without dinner. By the time we got back to the car and returned to our hotel in Chanthaburi, it was around 22 pm.
Go to Khao Khitchakut
As I have already mentioned at length, Khao Khitchakut is located in the province of Chanthaburi, around 4 hours drive east of BangkokThe city of Chanthaburi can also serve as a nice stopover if you continue your stay towards the islands of the Gulf off Trat (Ko chang, Ko Mak et Ko Kood(which have also been gaining popularity lately).
From Bangkok
By car (the simplest and most flexible option)
Allow about 4 to 4.5 hours journey depending on traffic.
We generally go through:
- Highway No. 7 towards Chonburi;
- then road no. 344 and no. 3 towards Chanthaburi.
Once in the province, you must join one of the starting temples serving as a base for pickup trucks
(as the Wat Phluang or other points organized according to the year).
By bus
Buses connect Bangkok to Chanthaburi since :
- Ekkamai (Eastern Bus Terminal)
- Mochit (Northern Bus Terminal)
Route: approximately 4h30 to 5h.
Once in Chanthaburi, there should be options right from the bus station to continue directly to the foot of the mountain. minubus or songthaew.
Final access: the pickup truck
As a reminder, Private vehicles are prohibited on the ascentThe ascent therefore necessarily begins with a 4x4 pickup truck trip, organized continuously:
- journey of approximately class ;
- very sporty driving;
- prices set annually by the local organization (normally 100 baht one way).
- Entrance to the national park is paid for separately (you can't avoid it).
The pickup truck drops you off at starting point of the hiking trail, for the last section on foot.
Where to stay near Khao Khitchakut
To stay near Khao Khitchakut, you have two main options:
- sleep directly in the immediate vicinity of the starting temples (what we did the first time),
- or accommodation in Chanthaburi, more comfortable and better equipped (especially more practical if you don't have a vehicle).
Sleep as close as possible to the departure point
If you wish to arrive very early, or avoid the drive at night after the climb, it is possible to sleep in the immediate vicinity of Wat Phluang and other starting points.
- small local guesthouses;
- simple bungalows;
- some homestays with locals.
The comfort is generally basic, but more than adequate for a night. The main advantage remains the immediate proximity of the pickup trucks and the special atmosphere of the pilgrimage from the morning onwards.
In our case, we opted for a unique guesthouse, located halfway between the city and Wat Phluang. The establishment is called the Rin Radee GardenAnd while it includes accommodation, a restaurant and even a cafe, its primary activity is to be an orchard, specializing in the king of fruits of the region: the durian!
It's so local that they're not available on the usual booking platforms; they have... a website, but the latter is only in Thai… Otherwise you can contact them via their Facebook page, the means of communication they prefer.
Accommodation in Chanthaburi
The other, more comfortable option is to sleep directly in the city of Chanthaburi, located about thirty kilometers from the starting temples.
- larger selection of hotels;
- varied catering;
- improved comfort after exertion.
It's also a good option if you want to enjoy the city, and especially you strolling through its old street along the river. During our second visit to Khao Khitchakut, we opted for this option, thus booking at Rangsiya Boutique Hotel, a recently built hotel less than 10 minutes from the famous street (Chanthaboon Waterfront Community).
