Chiang Mai: 5 temples to see in the old city

When we talk about Chiang Mai, we think of the mountains, the ethnic villages, nature in general and everything the region has to offer in terms of landscapes and excursions. But since it's Thailand, and since I'm talking about the city here, we also inevitably think of its many temples (I already gave you some a list around the city here). The old town, this square delimited by its moats and walls, alone contains several dozen of them. Needless to say, it's hard to know where to look first.

Obviously, there is not necessarily any interest in seeing them all. For a first discovery, I therefore offer you a selection of 5 Temples to Visit in Chiang Mai Old Town. Spread throughout the historic center, they allow you to combine cultural visits and a walk through the alleys of the old town.

The 5 temples on a map

To help you find your way around, here is a map showing the locations of the five temples mentioned in this article.

1- Wat Chiang Man

I start with the Wat chiang man, which is not my favorite or even the most popular. Its modest size makes it often neglected and quieter, as its architecture is not as impressive as that of other temples. It is nonetheless a must-see for its major historical importance: built at the end of the 13th century, it is considered the first royal temple of Chiang Mai.

Indeed, when King Mengrai — already founder of the current Chiang Rai — established his new capital here in 1296, with the support of his allies Ramkhamhaeng (Sukhothaï) and Ngam Mueang (Phayao), an alliance commemorated by the Three Kings Monument, he ordered the construction of a temple on this site. Despite its age, Wat Chiang Man remains in excellent condition and displays several typical elements of Lanna architecture.

As soon as you enter, you notice the large viharn adorned with intricately carved gold motifs. Its rich façade contrasts with the sobriety of its elongated, multi-roofed building. Inside, however, red and gold dominate: painted columns, murals, and Buddha statues arranged around a central altar create a vibrant setting. Among them, a standing Buddha image holding an alms bowl, dated 1465, is considered the oldest Buddha image in Chiang Mai.

The most emblematic element of Wat Chiang Man is undoubtedly the Chedi Chang Lom (literally the "chedi surrounded by elephants"). Its square brick base is supported by fifteen sculpted elephants, appearing to carry the building on their backs. This type of structure is found in Sukhothai and And Satchanalai, where Sri Lankan influence blended with local traditions. In Chiang Mai, this variation marked the beginnings of what would later become the Lanna style.

To the right of the main viharn, a smaller, contemporary-looking building houses two highly revered Buddha images: the Phra Sila, a stone bas-relief of Sri Lankan origin associated with the power to call rain, and the Phra Sae Tang Khamani, or crystal Buddha, carved from quartz and considered the protector of the city. The first is particularly honored during Songkran, as it is traditionally invoked to bring rain before the agricultural season while the latter is considered a protective image of the city, since it is said to have survived intact the conquest of Hariphunchai (present-day Lamphun) by Mengrai himself.

A third building, to the left of the courtyard, completes the essential sights to see at Wat Chiang Man. This is theubosot (ordination hall), which was built in its current form in 1805. Its access is generally closed, but it houses a XNUMXth-century stone stele indicating precisely the date of Chiang Mai's founding.

2- Wat Phra Singh

Le Wat phra singh is undoubtedly one of the most photogenic temples in the old city. It owes its name to the Phra Phuttha Sihing, a bronze Buddha statue from Sri Lanka, which arrived in Chiang Mai in 1367. Legend has it that three identical statues were commissioned by Sinhalese kings over a millennium ago. Today, three effigies bear this name in Thailand: one at Wat Phra Singh, another at the National Museum in Bangkok, and a third at Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan in Nakhon Si Thammarat — a city I visit regularly since my in-laws are from there.

The origin of the temple is slightly older since its construction dates back to 1345, during the reign of King Phayu, fifth ruler of the Lanna kingdom. He then founded this temple, called at the time Wat Phra Chiang, to house his father's ashes. Over the centuries, several buildings were added, forming the vast complex that can be visited today, which also includes a college. As is often the case in Thailand, the site's age does not mean that all its buildings are original: many have been renovated or rebuilt.

It's important to know that Buddhist temples in Thailand are not frozen in time. Their appearance is constantly evolving: new buildings are added, old ones are restored, and sometimes some are demolished. main viharn Wat Phra Singh is a good example of this phenomenon. Upon entering the grounds, this is the first thing you'll see.

However, it does not date from the 14th century but from the beginning of the 20th: it is the work of the charismatic monk Khruba SiwichaiThe latter led more than a hundred projects, both religious and civil (temples, roads, bridges) - he is notably credited with the construction of the road leading to Doi Suthep. This activism earned him the nickname “engineer monk”, and a statue in his honor stands in front of the viharn.

Its façade is reminiscent of Wat Chiang Man, with a more sober interior. For some reason, access to this viharn is the only paid part of the temple. Since you can see the large golden Buddha statue from the entrance, that's enough for me because it's the most interesting part of the temple.

On the left of the courtyard you will find the viharn Lai Kham, the oldest and most emblematic building of the temple. It dates back to the founding of Wat Phra Singh. Its murals, although partially damaged, have survived thanks to successive restorations and offer a valuable insight into the talent of the artists of the time. It is here that the famous Phra Phuttha Sihing is located, considered the second most venerated statue in Thailand after the Emerald Buddha of the Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok.

Perpendicular to the viharn Lai Kham is theubosot, an ordination hall that combines a brick base with wooden walls and roof. Inside, you can see some old photos of Chiang Mai, as well as strikingly realistic statues of monks (the Musée Grévin should take a leaf out of this book!).

Interior of the ubosot.

Nearby, the main chedi inevitably catches the eye. Each side of its base features sculpted half-elephants that seem to emerge from the wall, hence its name Chedi Than Chang Lom, very similar to that of the chedi of Wat Chiang Man. This large stupa is surrounded by three other smaller golden chedis, two of which house niches with images of Buddha, as well as a richly decorated sala (a kind of shelter).

As a testament to the constant evolution of temples, I still remember these chedis in their rougher form, before the gilding was added a few years ago. It's a trend I've noticed recently: covering chedis with gilding to give them a more vibrant look.

Continuing the visit, you will come across the Ho Trai Library, a small, elevated building, somewhat like a miniature version of the Lai Kham viharn. It is believed to date from the early 1930th century, although the most extensive restoration was carried out in the late 1961th century, under King Kawila. Interestingly, photographs from the XNUMXs show that next to this library once stood a Burmese-style chedi, erected by a wealthy Burmese teak trader, but which was eventually removed in XNUMX.

The Ho Trai of Wat Phra Singh.

3- Wat Chedi Luang

We come to the main temple of the old city: the Wat Chedi Luang WorawihanLocated in the heart of Chiang Mai's historic square, it is recognizable by its immense chedi, the upper part of which has collapsed. More than just a place of worship, it is a vast complex that resembles a small village, with its various viharn, ubosot, monks' dwellings, but also a museum, a college and even a Buddhist university.

The temple was founded in 1391 by King Saen Muang Ma to rest his father's ashes. The chedi would not be completed until two generations later, in the mid-late XNUMXth century. Once free, admission to the site is now paid and is located just beyond the main entrance, which faces the large viharn. If you are not dressed appropriately, sarongs and other coverings are available at the entrance.

Next to the imposing tree that adjoins the ticket office, we find the San Lak Mueang, literally the pillar of the cityThis type of shrine is found in most Thai cities: it represents the spiritual heart. Here, the pillar is buried and therefore invisible, but the interior of the shrine is nonetheless richly decorated with paintings and colorful patterns. It should be noted that access is forbidden to women, which remains occasional in some northern temple buildings. The neighboring tree was planted in 1800 by King Kawila, when this shrine was built within the temple.

Right next to it stands the royal viharn, a massive building that houses a standing Buddha statue (rare in itself), called Phra AttharotThis 9-meter bronze statue dates from the founding of the temple. The interior, rather sober, is the result of a reconstruction in 1928.

Moving forward behind the viharn, you arrive at the central courtyard dominated by the large chedi. It was severely damaged by an earthquake in 1545, which caused its upper part to collapse. Originally over 80 meters high, it now stands only about fifty meters. Its architecture is inspired by the pagodas of Bagan, Burma. In the 1990s, major renovations were carried out, with the addition of elephant statues to the square base.

The chedi has a particular historical importance: in 1468, one of its niches housed the famous Emerald Buddha, before it was moved to Laos (to Luang Prabang then to Vientiane), where it remained for more than 200 years.

On the back side of the site, we discover several more recent structures which illustrate well the vitality of Thai temples. Viharn Luang Pu Mun Bhuridatta, for example, gives the impression of an ancient Lanna building with its wooden architecture. However, it was only added in 2002, to house relics of the monk of the same name.

Facade of Viharn Luang Pu Mun Bhuridatta.

Two years later, in 2004, another wooden building but in the shape of a cross, the Viharn Chatumuk Buraphachan, came to complete the ensemble. Here again, its style fits in perfectly, even if it is recent: it contains several relics displayed in glass cases, including bones and ashes of monks of the forest tradition.

Right next door, in a discreet and little-visited corner, the viharn Luang Pho Somprathan, surrounded by a small grassy courtyard, has recently been renovated.

Back around the main chedi, there is also a structure housing both a reclining Buddha and a Chinese Buddha (recognizable by its pot belly), as well as a wooden pavilion containing a beautiful stone Buddha statue protected by a naga. While all this is quite recent, it remains aesthetically pleasing and respects the local architectural style, notably by favoring wood over modern materials.

Wat Chedi Luang is also known for its yoga sessions. Monk Chat, literally “discussion with the monks”. It is mainly young novices who take part in this, happy to answer visitors’ questions about monastic life, meditation and Thai culture in the broadest sense.

A little “monk chat” session?

Before leaving the enclosure, we pass in front of the Buddhist Manuscripts Library-MuseumIts architecture, shaped like a small, multi-story pagoda, is eye-catching. Inside, you'll find a collection of religious objects and traditional manuscripts written on dried palm leaves, and some old photos of Chiang Mai on display on the ground floor.

The building housing the museum.

4- Wat Phantao

Le Wat Phantao can easily be visited in combination with Wat Chedi Luang since they are literally neighbors. Seen from the sky, you might even think it is part of it. Historically, the two temples were linked: the land once served as a residential area for the monks of Chedi Luang.

Its name, which means "temple of a thousand ovens," is said to come from the site's use as a place to cast Buddha statues for the large neighboring temple. Its foundation also dates back to the late 14th century, making it one of the oldest in Chiang Mai. Most of the buildings are modern, however, but the site retains one unique piece: its teak wood viharn.

Wat Phantao seen from the side.

Recognizable from the street, it is built entirely of teak panels placed on a stone base - one of the few structures of this type still visible in Chiang Mai. A special feature: it is made of recycled wood. The building was originally a Ho Kham, throne room of the Lanna king Mahotara Prathet, built in 1846.

Abandoned by his successors, the royal residence was dismantled and the wooden panels were then reused in 1875 by Prince Inthawichayanon to become the viharn of Wat Phantao. As a reminder of this royal past, an emblem can be found above the entrance: a peacock (a symbol of wisdom in Lanna culture) accompanied by a dog (the sovereign's zodiac), all surrounded by protective nagas and surmounted by a small chedi.

The beautiful wooden facade of Wat Phantao.

The interior exudes a calming atmosphere, with its ochre tiled floor and a green central aisle contrasting with the dark wood. The overall simplicity reinforces the feeling of zen.

The temple courtyard, now more open, was once renowned for its staging, with a pond running along the courtyard like a stream, centered around a beautiful bodhi tree, beneath which sits a statue of Buddha, ever present. This place became so popular during the celebrations of Loy Krathong / Yi Peng that the abbot decided to limit the developments to restore some of the tranquility to the temple. Not everything has disappeared since on my last visit, there were floral installations but the difference from before was particularly noticeable.

The current layout. And below, I'll show you a before/after of the Bodhi tree next to it.

Finally, behind the viharn, you have the unconditional chedi, here octagonal in shape. Like others in Chiang Mai, it has recently been covered with gilded plaques, following a trend that adds extra sparkle to the whole.

The golden chedi of Wat Phantao.

5- Wat Jetlin

Very close to Wat Chedi Luang, located in the same street 400 m further, the Wat Jetlin (or Wat Ched Lin, depending on the transliteration) is a temple located south of the old city, a few minutes from the Chiang Mai gate. Its name means "temple of the seven ponds", in reference to pools that once existed and are said to have served as a bathing place for the royal family.

Today, there is still a small body of water, crossed in the middle by a woven bamboo footbridge, which gives a lot of charm to the place and attracts photography enthusiasts, including myself. One side of the pond is filled with water hyacinths while the other is scattered with large water lily leaves.

As in many temples in Chiang Mai, the buildings have been renovated, but the site retains a beautiful architectural coherence. The main viharn, modern, continues the style lana, with its multi-tiered roof and gilded decorations. A small subtlety here is that the viharn is almost glued to the street: it is therefore accessed from the side, and not from the front facade. The interior, more sober, houses several statues of Buddha in different postures, and the atmosphere remains peaceful.

Just behind it, before reaching the pond, you have a historic chedi with exposed brickwork, giving it a more authentic, raw feel. The main attraction of Wat Jetlin, however, remains its calm and photogenic atmosphere, quite different from the large, iconic temples like Chedi Luang or Phra Singh.

It's a place where you'll mostly encounter locals feeding fish and monks going about their daily business, giving it a more intimate and less touristy feel. While not a must-see in terms of history or grandeur, Wat Jetlin is worth a stop if you want to vary your visits and enjoy a relaxing setting in the heart of the old city.

A monk from Wat Jetlin busy with some DIY.

Bonus: Wat Sai Mun Burma

Bonus: Wat Sai Mun Burma

To complete this selection, I suggest a temple that is a little different, less well-known and rarely included in classic itineraries: the Wat Sai Mun BurmaAs its name suggests, this is not a Lanna temple but a Burmese-style building, bearing witness to the presence of a large community who came from Myanmar at the end of the 19th century, notably to work in teak exploitation.

The main viharn is immediately distinguished by its roof with several superimposed levels (Pyatthat), typical of Burmese temples, and by its softer decor, where red and yellow predominate. Inside, the atmosphere remains sober, with a few Buddha statues and colorful ornaments. You also have two Burmese-style chedi located behind. In front, there is a beautiful bodhi tree, delimited by a low wall.

It's not a must-see temple for a first visit to Chiang Mai, but if you like to compare styles or discover more discreet places, Wat Sai Mun Burma may be worth a little detour. It's a good way to appreciate the religious and cultural diversity of the city, between Lanna traditions and Burmese influences.