Chiang Mai: 5 temples to see in the old city

The 5 temples on a map

To help you find your way around, here is a map showing the locations of the five temples mentioned in this article.

1- Wat Chiang Man

I'm starting with Wat Chiang Man , which isn't my favorite, nor even the most popular. Modest in size, it's often overlooked and quieter, as its architecture isn't as impressive as that of other temples. Nevertheless, it remains a must-see due to its major historical significance: built at the end of the 13th century, it's considered the first royal temple of Chiang Mai.

Indeed, when King Mangrai—already the founder of present-day Chiang Rai —established his new capital here in 1296, with the support of his allies Ramkhamhaeng (Sukhothai) and Ngam Mueang (Phayao), an alliance commemorated by the Monument of the Three Kings , he ordered the construction of a temple on this site. Despite its age, Wat Chiang Man remains in excellent condition and displays several typical elements of Lanna architecture.

Upon entering, one immediately notices the grand viharn adorned with intricately carved gold motifs. Its ornate facade contrasts sharply with the simplicity of its elongated, multi-tiered roof. Inside, however, red and gold dominate: painted columns, murals, and Buddha statues arranged around a central altar create a dazzling display. Among them, an image of a standing Buddha holding an alms bowl, dated 1465, is considered the oldest known representation of Buddha in Chiang Mai.

The most iconic feature of Wat Chiang Man is undoubtedly the Chedi Chang Lom (literally, the "chedi surrounded by elephants"). Its square brick base is supported by fifteen sculpted elephants, seemingly carrying the structure on their backs. This type of structure can be found in Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai , where Sri Lankan influence blended with local traditions. In Chiang Mai, this variation marks the beginnings of what would later become known as the Lanna style.

To the right of the main viharn, a smaller, contemporary-looking building houses two highly revered Buddha images: the Phra Sila , a Sri Lankan stone bas-relief associated with the power to call down rain, and the Phra Sae Tang Khamani , or Crystal Buddha, carved from quartz and considered the protector of the city.

The first is particularly honored during Songkran , as it is traditionally invoked to bring rain before the agricultural season, while the second is regarded as a protective image of the city, since it is said to have survived intact the conquest of Hariphunchai (modern-day Lamphun) by Mangrai himself.

A third building, to the left of the courtyard, completes the essential sights at Wat Chiang Man. This is the ubosot (ordination hall), whose construction in its current form dates back to 1805. Its entrance is usually closed, but it houses a 16th-century stone stele indicating the precise date of the founding of Chiang Mai.

2- Wat Phra Singh

Wat Phra Singh is undoubtedly one of the most photogenic temples in the old city. It owes its name to Phra Phuttha Sihing , a bronze Buddha statue from Sri Lanka that arrived in Chiang Mai in 1367. Legend has it that three identical statues were commissioned by Sinhalese kings over a millennium ago. Today, three effigies bear this name in Thailand: the one at Wat Phra Singh, another at the National Museum in Bangkok, and a third at Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan in Nakhon Si Thammarat —a city I visit regularly since my in-laws are from there.

The temple's origins are slightly older, dating back to 1345, during the reign of King Phayu, the fifth ruler of the Lanna Kingdom. He founded this temple, then called Wat Phra Chiang , to house the ashes of his father. Over the centuries, several buildings were added, forming the vast complex that visitors see today, which also includes a college. As is often the case in Thailand, the site's age does not mean that all its buildings are original: many have been renovated or rebuilt.

It's important to know that Buddhist temples in Thailand are not static. Their appearance is constantly evolving: new buildings are added, old ones are restored, and sometimes even demolished. The main viharn of Wat Phra Singh perfectly illustrates this phenomenon. It's the first thing you'll see upon entering the temple grounds.

However, it does not date from the 14th century but from the early 20th: it is the work of the charismatic monk Khruba Siwichai . He led more than a hundred projects, both religious and civil (temples, roads, bridges) — he is notably credited with the construction of the road leading to Doi Suthep . This activism earned him the nickname “engineer monk”, and a statue in his honor stands in front of the viharn.

Its façade is reminiscent of Wat Chiang Man, with a more sober interior. For some reason, access to this viharn is the only paid part of the temple. Since you can see the large golden Buddha statue from the entrance, that's enough for me because it's the most interesting part of the temple.

To the left of the courtyard, you'll find the Lai Kham viharn , the oldest and most iconic building in the temple complex. It dates back to the founding of Wat Phra Singh. Its murals, though partially damaged, have survived thanks to successive restorations and offer a valuable glimpse into the talent of the artists of that era. It is here that you'll find the famous Phra Phuttha Sihing, considered the second most revered statue in Thailand after the Emerald Buddha at Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok.

Perpendicular to the Lai Kham viharn is the ubosot , an ordination hall that combines a brick base with wooden walls and roof. Inside, you can see some old photos of Chiang Mai, as well as strikingly realistic statues of monks (the Grévin Museum could learn a thing or two!).

Nearby, the main chedi inevitably catches the eye. Each side of its base features carved half-elephants that appear to emerge from the wall, hence its name, Chedi Than Chang Lom , very similar to that of the chedi at Wat Chiang Man. This large stupa is surrounded by three other smaller, gilded chedis, two of which house niches with Buddha images, as well as a richly decorated sala (a type of shelter).

As a testament to the constant evolution of temples, I still remember these chedis in their rougher form, before the gilding was added a few years ago. It's a trend I've noticed recently: covering chedis with gilding to give them a more vibrant look.

Continuing your visit, you'll come across the Ho Trai Library , a small, elevated building, somewhat like a miniature version of the Lai Kham viharn. It dates back to the early 16th century, although the most significant restoration was carried out in the late 18th century under King Kawila. Finally, an interesting tidbit: photographs from the 1930s show that a Burmese-style chedi once stood next to this library, erected by a wealthy Burmese teak merchant, but it was finally removed in 1961.

3- Wat Chedi Luang

We arrive at the main temple of the old city: Wat Chedi Luang Worawihan . Located in the heart of Chiang Mai's historic district, it is recognizable by its immense chedi, the upper part of which has collapsed. More than just a place of worship, it is a vast complex resembling a small village, with its various viharns, ubosots, monks' quarters, as well as a museum, a college, and even a Buddhist university.

The temple was founded in 1391 by King Saen Muang Ma to rest his father's ashes. The chedi would not be completed until two generations later, in the mid-late XNUMXth century. Once free, admission to the site is now paid and is located just beyond the main entrance, which faces the large viharn. If you are not dressed appropriately, sarongs and other coverings are available at the entrance.

Next to the imposing tree beside the ticket office stands the San Lak Mueang , literally the city pillar . This type of shrine is found in most Thai cities, representing their spiritual heart. Here, the pillar is buried and therefore invisible, but the interior of the shrine is nonetheless richly decorated with colorful paintings and motifs. It should be noted that women are not permitted inside, although this is only occasionally observed in some temple buildings in the north. The neighboring tree was planted in 1800 by King Kawila when this shrine was established within the temple grounds.

Right next door stands the royal viharn , a massive building housing a standing Buddha statue (a rarity in itself), called Phra Attharot . This 9-meter bronze statue dates back to the temple's founding. The rather austere interior is the result of a 1928 reconstruction.

Moving forward behind the viharn, you arrive at the central courtyard dominated by the large chedi. It was severely damaged by an earthquake in 1545, which caused its upper part to collapse. Originally over 80 meters high, it now stands only about fifty meters. Its architecture is inspired by the pagodas of Bagan, Burma. In the 1990s, major renovations were carried out, with the addition of elephant statues to the square base.

The chedi has a special historical significance: in 1468, one of its niches housed the famous Emerald Buddha , before it was moved to Laos (to Luang Prabang and then to Vientiane), where it remained for more than 200 years.

At the rear of the site, several more recent structures can be seen, illustrating the vitality of Thai temples. The Viharn Luang Pu Mun Bhuridatta , for example, gives the impression of an ancient Lanna building with its wooden architecture. Yet, it was only added in 2002 to house relics of the monk of the same name.

Two years later, in 2004, another wooden building in the shape of a cross, the Viharn Chatumuk Buraphachan , was added to the complex. Here again, its style blends in perfectly, even though it is recent: it houses several relics displayed in glass cases, including bones and ashes of monks from the Forest Tradition.

Right next door, in a discreet and little-visited corner, the viharn Luang Pho Somprathan , surrounded by a small grassy courtyard, has recently been renovated.

Back around the main chedi, there is also a structure housing both a reclining Buddha and a Chinese Buddha (recognizable by its pot belly), as well as a wooden pavilion containing a beautiful stone Buddha statue protected by a naga. While all this is quite recent, it remains aesthetically pleasing and respects the local architectural style, notably by favoring wood over modern materials.