The Kok River "valley" refers to the entire mountainous area west of Chiang Rai , along the Kok River. It is home to many charming villages nestled among rice paddies, as well as mountain tribe villages scattered throughout the highlands.

It's not very visited, as most people are content with a visit to the temples of Chiang Rai, a quick trip to the Golden Triangle, and then move on to other places. Another reason is that unless you have your own transport, it's unlikely you'll be able to explore this area independently.

I should point out that this is not an official name, but the road leading there runs along the river, and the places to visit are all within 10 km of the river, so I needed to define this whole area, which is quite vast in itself, since it covers Doi Hang mountain on the right (south) bank and Mae Yao on the left (north) bank.

So here is a small selection of points of interest to see, just to make you want to go and take a look and spend a day exploring!

Boat along the Kok River (Thaton – Chiang Rai)

And I'll start with the main point: the river itself. The Kok River originates in Myanmar and flows from Thaton, a small town in the neighboring province of Chiang Mai. It's possible to travel by boat between Chiang Rai and Thaton (and vice versa) when the water level permits. There are two options:

• The fast version, which implies no stops, but also the privatization of the boat, therefore a higher cost, normally around 2,000 ฿
• The slower version is a kind of floating bus that stops at several village docks along its route. In this case, the cost is normally 350 ฿ (a minimum of 4 passengers may be required to depart).

You need to allow plenty of time for this river trip, as the journey from Chiang Rai to Thaton takes about 5 hours , since you're going upstream against the current, while the trip from Thaton to Chiang Rai takes advantage of the current to travel with it in the opposite direction. The Kok River continues its course east of Chiang Rai until it joins the Mekong River near Chiang Saen.

To give you an idea of ​​the distance, Chiang Rai to Thaton by land is 90 km, a journey of about 1 hour and 30 minutes. This peaceful river trip allows you to travel through the mountains, passing villages here and there inhabited by various ethnic groups, often Akha or Karen. Furthermore, Thaton itself has its own attractions and makes a possible stopover on the way to Chiang Mai via a less touristy route (my suggestion in this case would be to then stop near Fang and climb Doi Ang Khang and/or Chiang Dao before ending your "northern" journey in Chiang Mai).

If you don't have that much time but still want to take a boat ride along the river, that's also possible. Usually the boats offer to go to the Karen village of Ruammit (where there are elephants but for rides in baskets...) before returning. The price in this case is 1 Bahts round trip, including a stop at the village for as long as you normally want. This is an opportunity to see the local crafts (mainly weaving) and its small church.

Wat Huay Pla Kang

Wat Huay Pla Kang, also known as the 9-tier temple, is a Buddhist temple of Chinese influence (it was reportedly initiated by the local community), starting with its imposing statue of the goddess Guanyin (goddess of mercy), often mistaken for a Buddha statue.

Some people criticize the site for being too commercial and modern, because in fact, there was nothing on this hill in 2002. A few years later, this Chinese-style pagoda first appeared, with 9 floors, giving the temple its nickname (the number 9 being a symbol of longevity for the Chinese).

But his real fame came with the completion in 2017 of the large white statue of Guanyin, which, without knowing the official figure, would be 90m high, an estimate that I make knowing that there are 25 floors.

It is also possible to access the interior via a paid elevator, 40 ฿ (the stairs are currently inaccessible). From there, you have a breathtaking view of the surrounding countryside and mountains.

To approach the statue, you can choose to take the massive stairs lined with Chinese dragons, or use the free “hello kitty” shuttle (yes, really!) provided.

If you are not keen on paying anything, the view from the top of the 9-story pagoda is already pretty good. The interior is bathed in slightly repetitive music but decorated with beautiful wooden statues, the main one being at least 8-9m high.

Finally, a building next to the pagoda is more reminiscent of local architecture, but instead of being all colorful as is the trend in the Lanna style, here we have a refined all-white style.

Located 8 km from the center of Chiang Rai, accessing the site by yourself is not necessarily easy because there is no public transport in the immediate vicinity. You will have to call one of the city's blue songthaews to get here, failing to have your own transport.

Wat Tham Phra (Buddha Cave Temple)

As the name suggests, this is a small temple with a prayer area set up in a cavity at the foot of a cliff. The link is not unmissable, but if like me you are a little curious and want to get away from more traditional visits, this small temple has a certain appreciable tranquil aspect.

The latter also being on the banks of the Kok River, this adds a certain charm. You can also see a view of the river and the surrounding valley from the Buddha statue set on a piece of rock on the river bank, accessible by a footbridge.

It was also possible below this spot to have lunch on a sandbank, appearing during the dry season and offering a perfect setting to cool off on hot summer days (between February and April). I speak in the past tense, because recently, I saw some work on the banks there so I don't know if it's still possible. In any case, if ever, you will find huts with tables, but opposite on the other bank.

Lam Nam Kok National Park

I mention it because it's one of the official attractions of the region, although I've never actually visited it. Indeed, like all national parks, there's an entrance fee: 200 ฿ per adult.

However, it is a fairly small area, adjoining our main theme of this article, the Kok River. Its main interest lies in the presence of a hot spring, which sometimes offers an interesting palette of colors due to the mixture of minerals present. The setting certainly looks pretty, but does not justify paying so much just to see that.

Especially since you can't swim there, the temperature being too high at 56°C. To do so, you can stop at the village of Ban Pha Soet, just 1,5 km downstream from the national park.

Pha Soet Hot Springs (also spelled Phaset) is a small hot spring with pools heated to 39°C where you can relax. There is an entrance fee, but it only costs 30 ฿ per adult (and 10 ฿ for children).

As with every hot spring in Thailand, you will also have the opportunity to cook eggs (quail or chicken) in springs at 73°C.

Just opposite, on the other side of the road, you will find a very good little restaurant tucked away in a modest property with a large garden, above the river (listed simply as Phasoet Restaurant on Google Maps ).

Wat Phrathat Tham Doi Kong Khao

If you have time, here is a small local temple that may be worth a look. Not because of its unique architecture. But it has the atmosphere of a small local temple on the one hand, and the latter also has a small cave furnished with statues of Buddha or hermit.

But what had attracted me there was the small cliff backing onto the temple, on which one can see a flag flying in the distance and make out at least one chedi at the top, indicating that it is possible to climb up there and therefore have a view of the valley.

That's the theory. On site the day I did my scouting, it was impossible to find a staircase leading upwards... One of the staircases leads to the cavity, another goes up to some monks' huts perched there, but I didn't see any other accesses to go higher... But I still saw recent photos there while writing this article, so proof that it is indeed possible.

Ethnic villages

Chiang Rai is still an area with many ethnic villages. And in this area along the Kok River are several of them.

Baan Khwae Wua Dam and Baan Cha Doe

And I'll start with the furthest ones. Baan Khwae Wua Dam is a village located shortly before the Thai Apache GH, where Sophie's elephants used to be ( Elephant Steps , which has moved elsewhere but the GH remains operational).

Baan Khwae Wua Dam is the village located on the left bank while Baan Cha Doe is a slope of the mountain located on the right bank. The two banks are connected by an old bridge donated by Japan 30 years ago. It is a suspension bridge with a wooden floor, crossed every day by the villagers of Baan Cha Doe.

The advantage is that the road is paved on the Baan Khwae Wua Dam side and it is then easier to get to a mini-market in a larger village rather than staying on their side where the road is unpaved until the level of the Lam Nam Kok national park, 3 km away.

Baan Jalae Muang

It is mainly a village that I used as a parking lot to reach the one described below, but it remains a village easily accessible by road, which is tarmacked up to there.

In this village, there was a small local museum dedicated to the area's ethnic groups, namely the Akha and Lahu. A sweet old lady had even opened it just for us, donning her traditional attire as she passed by. I speak in the past tense because I no longer see it listed, but it's still possible to stay in a homestay in the heart of the village, the Hill Tribe Art House.

Also note that less than a kilometer away you have a small waterfall, Mae Sai Waterfall.

Baan Yafu (บ้านยะฟู)

In order to deepen my visits to the surrounding villages, I decided one day to go to Baan Yafu, located on Google Maps. It is a village of the Lahu tribe.

Since the road up there is unpaved and I was with my old (city) car, I could not get there directly. But looking at the map it did not seem excessively far and decided to go up on foot, and I got my parents involved in this affair.

The fact is that there are still 2,3 km and almost all uphill (200 m difference in altitude). So it took longer than expected to reach the village. And it was almost disappointing to come across… tourists… Well ok, these are people who sleep on site, because this village, like others here, offer a homestay but I didn't expect that at all!

It remains a typical mountain village atmosphere. If you ever want to explore the area even more, you can climb up to a viewpoint, Doi Bo view point, overlooking the mountain of the Mae Yao district. To do this, you have to continue the climb for 2,5 km (300 m of elevation gain).

Baan Ja Jaw (Bamboo Nest)

Another Lahu village, I go to this one to eat in the heart of nature at the Bamboo Nest , another mountain homestay located above the village.

To get to the Bamboo Nest, you have to cross the village on a particularly steep hill. So I park the car in the village and finish the last 500 meters on foot. The view from the village is superb, we pass pineapple plantations and rubber trees on the slopes shortly before arriving in sight of the Bamboo Nest.

If I come here, it is not so much for the home cooking, which remains very limited in choice (the cook is not always available and the husband, as friendly as he is, helps out as best he can with the available ingredients) but for the setting.

This family homestay is next to rice fields and is really isolated in the quiet of the mountain (if you stay there, they offer a shuttle from the Chiang Rai bus terminal, see the information on their website linked above). The huts are perched on the mountainside with a hammock area to relax, the garden is superb, well maintained, electricity is only available at the reception, a good spot to recharge your batteries in short.

Huay Keaw Waterfall

Finally, I'll conclude this brief overview with a waterfall in the heart of the jungle. Located not far from an Akha village with two small guesthouses ( Akha Hill House and Tree House Homestay Akha ), it's accessible via a path leading from the Bamboo Nest mentioned above. If you don't want to do the short one-kilometer trek, you can reach it by road by turning left shortly before the Pha Soet hot spring (thanks again, Google Maps).

Unpaved for a short distance, it joins a small road which takes you to an unnamed village (shortly before the village of Ban Pong Nam Ron), a small bridge will cross a stream, the Keao, to then cross an old tea plantation area, again, on a section of unpaved road (and in the rainy season it quickly becomes a mess).

From the car park, there is only 350 m left to walk into the jungle, and beyond the waterfall itself, there is the possibility of a short walk in the heart of the tropical forest.

As an anecdote, the Akha village next door has set up a water flow control system, converted into a sort of swimming pool using water from the nearby spring. There is also a small café, but it is not always open due to lack of staff. One day, I was surprised to find it not only open and available but also run by a French woman! Who managed it in exchange for accommodation in the neighbouring village.

How to get along the Kok River

It goes without saying that to see all this, it is better to have a vehicle, because you will not have public transport in the area, apart from Wat Huay Pla Kang, easily accessible by shared taxi from the city center.

So I'm afraid I can't help you any further on this point, you'll have to be resourceful, you can use the map below to find your way: