Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, a Tourist Trap?

Damnoen Saduak is probably the most famous floating market in Thailand. And for good reason, if you type "floating market bangkok" you will come across photos of this market (most of them dating from 15 or 20 years ago by the way).

Damnoen Saduak is a very touristy place, sold as THE floating market of Bangkok, but whose floating character is far from the original concept. And it is less obvious to call it a "market" since it is closer to a kind of giant souvenir shop, certainly special since it is centered around water; but you will mainly come across decorative objects, clothes, classic crafts and of course a little food and drinks, but rarely consumed by locals and not in the sense of a fresh vegetable market...

Damnoen Saduak: a brief historical and geographical overview

First point What I wanted to raise here is that this floating market is often "sold" as being in Bangkok, when in fact it is not. It is located in Ratchaburi province, a few 100 km from Bangkok city center, so it's not next door.

And that's already important. Especially in the case of taxis encouraging you to go there. If you're not aware, you won't understand the high fare, which ultimately remains consistent (normally around 2-000 Bhats) and above all, you'll understand why getting there takes time. Because some people don't expect to embark on a trip of about 2h500 minimum, so 1 hours round trip anyway.

While it is certainly possible to do the visit in one day, this timing must be taken into account when organizing your visits. It should be understood that floating markets in bangkok, there are some. The best known being Taling Chan, whose floating side is also a bit exaggerated for me, but above all there is the Lat Mayom Market, much more interesting. Problem, all floating markets only take place on weekends, which is also not always known, and this is where Damnoen Saduak comes in, because it is the exception. That is why the latter is very promoted, it is simply the only one open every day.

Second point, like many floating markets today, Damnoen Saduak is a resurrection of a floating market that once existed near the main Damnoen Saduak canal. The canal was created during the reign and by order of King Rama IV between 1866 and 1868 in order to connect the Tha Chin Rivers in the west, to the Mae Klong River in the east.

The main market of Damnoen Saduak, built by human hands.

Many floating markets then appeared along this 32 km canal, the roads being then little or not at all developed. The many surrounding canals (more than 200!) dug by the villagers were then the main means of moving around, by boat therefore.

Originally called Lad Plee Market, this floating market finally ceased its activities in 1967, when the road network became sufficient to gradually abandon this method of selling on the water, deemed less practical.

This is what it looked like before, maybe 20 or 30 years ago, an image that visitors think they are entitled to when they come to Damnoen Saduak.

But at the same time, tourism, due to the presence of American troops in Thailand during the Vietnam War, was beginning to develop. The Tourism Organization of Thailand (now the TAT for Tourism Authority of Thailand), a newly created body to promote the country's attractions and in charge of promoting and developing tourism in the Land of Smiles, decided in 1971 to revive the Lad Plee market to attract foreign tourists.

In 1981, the road now running through the middle of the canal (where the main part of Damnoen Saduak Market is located) was built, leading contractors to develop the canal banks into what would become the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market we know today.

A little clarification in passing, the market is in reality a combination of 3 small separate markets: Ton Khem, Hia Kui and Khun Phitak, which can be reached by navigating by boat in the canals.

So Damnoen Saduak, what to expect?

As it is the most famous, I am not telling you anything new by saying that it is often crowded. Many tour operators bring tourists from Bangkok by bus, and it goes by like that for a good part of the day.

And who says tourist, says prices that go with it…. If in normal times, you can pay 20-30 Bahts for a coconut, here, it's 60 Bahts straight away, a drink, even water, it's going to be 20 Bahts instead of 10. So you're going to tell me, it's still not much in euros and it's true, but as a matter of principle, I don't like paying double or triple for something just on the principle of being in a busier place (which is precisely a paradox, there are people, so it's a way to earn a good crust without necessarily inflating the prices).

The tour operators arrive, it is 10am.

It's rush hour.

Some have been sold boat tours for 3000-4000 Baht for 1h30, claiming that they cannot share and must rent the whole boat (which even in Bangkok is not that expensive...).

You only have to see the TripAdvisor reviews to see how the reviews are rather mixed. The market itself is reduced to an endless line of shops, all selling more or less the same thing. There are so many that I always wonder how they manage to get by…

A typical canal with a row of shops.

The part on land.

The restaurant corner.

Because typically, the boats will make sure to stop from time to time depending on the "partnerships" towards this or that shop, or simply depending on the looks that we give, thinking that we are interested in this or that shop. However, I ultimately see few people buying, less and less fooled by all this little game.

There is also a mandatory stop at what used to be a palm sugar factory, if they still make it (you have to go all the way to the back to see), it is now more of a well-oiled souvenir shop since everyone has to stop there...

The shop today. © Suddhasatya Samanta

Palm sugar production in 2010.

The palm sugar factory in 2010.

Boats with fresh produce vendors also circulate, selling beers, Pad Thai, or coconuts (how original!). There are certainly a few "grandmas" with a decidedly retro look and bringing a sort of "authentic" guarantee to the place. But in the end, there are more boats with tourists on them than locals, so much so that on the main part, you have to tuck your elbows in and the boats all touch each other as they make their way through.

Knowing that some are rowing boats, others have motors, which occasionally spit their smoke on those behind... All this is not very glorious but it is a well-oiled machine and Damnoen Saduak continues irremediably to attract... And to show how well it works, there was a time when the market only opened in the morning until around noon while it is open non-stop all day these days, 7 days a week.

So should you visit Damnoen Saduak?

Given the description above, one might wonder why I ask the question since the answer seems obvious at first glance. Except that there is a subtlety. As mentioned above, Damnoen Saduak is the only floating market open on weekdays, so if you are not in Bangkok on the weekend, and you want to see this kind of market, this is the only possible choice.

Then, leaving with full knowledge of the facts, this can limit your excessive spending on site, buy water before, and avoid motor boats. Prefer a rowing boat, it is all the more pleasant as it is silent and the feeling of floating soothing, and above all the price is then much more reasonable.

Early in the morning.

In contrast, when there are people later.

Where I take it (see location below), it's 500 baht per boat for a 1 hour loop, regardless of the number of people (well after that places are more limited so if there are 10 of you, you'll need 2 boats).

In addition, the surrounding restaurants have reasonable prices. There are also, because it is the general trend in Thailand, lots of nice little cafes to take a coffee break. Finally, the best advice I can give you is to arrive before 9am, which is the time when the groups arrive. Obviously, you will have to be early, but after all, this is often how we make the most of tourist places.

Get up early to enjoy the peaceful atmosphere from 7:30 am (well after that it leaves Bangkok at 6 am...). You will be able to see monks passing by boat to collect the offerings. At this early hour, there are a few boats really selling vegetables produced locally and sold by local people, so the very essence of a floating market. Also stroll around the surroundings, especially near the main canal of Damnoen Saduak, you will see many wooden houses with old-world charm.

The calm before the “storm”.

A monk praying for a worshiper who has just made an offering.

For boat trips, I recommend the rowing boat to go around the market. But you can also opt for a long-tail boat trip in the surrounding area. In this case, try to negotiate a wide circuit to get out of the market areas a little and see a little of the local atmosphere, this is what I did with my parents a few years ago and the atmosphere remains quite authentic.

On the map below, I show you 2 circuits allowing you to see something a little different from the market itself (extension 1 and 2, the base in blue remaining the same for a 1-hour trip by rowing boat).

Again, by going there knowingly, you appreciate the place more, because the atmosphere is still unique. It's a bit like going on a merry-go-round, everything is "fake" but there is something fun about it, you can come across talkative moments.

It’s hot, we need to cool down a bit!

There's laughter around here!

House on stilts in a canal near the market.

The canal serving as a starting point for the rowing boats I suggest.

How to get to Damnoen Saduak?

The easiest and quickest way is to call a taxi from bangkok. These will normally offer you a daily package (including the return trip) at around 2 baht depending on your negotiating skills.

By public transport, you have to go to the Southern Bus Terminal in Bangkok (or Saï Taï Maï). It remains practical because there are buses and minivans direct to the market, without going through the nearest town otherwise (Samut Songkhram). Doing so costs only 150 baht per person.

The other solution is by train. To do this, go to the small Wongwian Yai station, on the right bank of Bangkok. The train will take you to Mahachai market, 1 hour away. You will have to exit the station to reach a quay to take a boat across the Tha Chin River. Then, walk to Ban Laem station.

The train arrives at Samut Songkhram station, passing through the famous Mae Klong train market.

I understand that for those who are not frequent travelers this option may seem complicated, but the advantage is that it takes you to Mae Klong station (so called because of the river of the same name nearby, but actually located in Samut Songkhram). The arrival therefore takes you through and arrives at the famous train market, located along the tracks in Samut Sonkghram.

My conclusion

To the question of whether you should go there, you see that I qualify my statement. You have to go there with full knowledge of the facts. See for yourself, some people still enjoy their visit because it remains a change of scenery, with a special and lively atmosphere. If you really prefer a authentic market, so take a look at the Tha Kha floating market, it is one of the 7 original floating markets, still active in the region. It is only 10 km from Damnoen Saduak, but it only happens on weekends AND early in the morning!

I would add that the area around the city of Samut Songkhram is also well worth spending the day there. Among other attractions, I can mention the temple surrounded by century-old trees, Wat Bang Kung, but also the seaside and its mangroves at Don Hoi Lot, or even the Amphawa market, if it's the weekend too. These are just a few examples, I will not fail to concoct a summary of this region soon because there is still quite a lot to do!