Phimai Temple: A Jewel of Khmer Heritage

Phimai is a small town in northeastern Thailand, located about 60 km from the large city of Nakhon Ratchasima (known to many as Khorat). Phimai was once an important fortified city as it was situated on the imperial road leading to the heart of the Khmer Empire.

Considered one of the most beautiful temples of its kind in Thailand, the Khmer temple of Phimai is the main vestige of this distant era and constitutes the Phimai Historical Park in itself.

1- Prasat Hin Phimai, Khmer architecture in all its splendor

Prasat is a word designating a sanctuary, while the word "hin" designates the stone, mainly used for this type of construction.

The Phimai temple is a Buddhist shrine (of the Mahayana school more specifically, as opposed to the Buddhism currently practiced in Thailand, Theravada Buddhism) and the largest Khmer temple in Thailand.

Knowing that I am not going to elaborate on all the characteristics of a Khmer temple here, I refer you to Wikipedia which summarizes very well the particular style of Khmer architecture.

If you like museums, you can complement this visit with a visit to the Phimai National Museum (it has just been recently renovated and it will cost you 100 Baht).

Upon arriving at the site, you will first pass through a "bridge", lined with nagas, the mythological serpent, very present in Thai temples.

Note that next to it is a secondary rectangular building, but I don't know its function… it's possible that the museum or a sign I failed to look at explains its presence.

Then you will enter the temple grounds through the south gate (there is typically a gate at each cardinal point in this type of sanctuary).

We then find ourselves surrounded by a red sandstone wall, with a cloister that was once entirely covered, typical of the time of Jayavarman VII, the last great king of the Khmer Empire who reigned at the end of the 12th century (the very same one whose face can be admired at Angkor Thom in Cambodia ).

As is often the case in this type of structure, there are lintels (sculptures above the doors) and statues inside the buildings (usually copies, you will find the originals in the museum).

In one of them, in the middle, sits a carved stone, a Yoni , which is missing its "linga," a phallic-looking stone symbolizing the Hindu god Shiva, to whom these temples were originally dedicated.

The remaining buildings, the oldest of which date from the late 11th century. The main structure is in the shape of a cross; around it you can see the galleries connecting the gopuras, the entrance gates surrounding the sanctuary.

The site is well-maintained, and the main shrine is in good condition considering its age. Many Thais visit the site, especially on weekends, and during the week you might encounter school trips, but it's definitely not where you'll find a site packed with foreign visitors.

This is a visit that will take between 1 and 2 hours depending on your pace. The fact is that you quickly find yourself stopping in the shade of the beautiful trees or inside the sanctuary to admire the architectural details or the details of the superbly sculpted and preserved statues (the Thais, for their part, are more into their favorite pastime, the selfie).

In addition to the main shrine and its beautiful Prang (the large main tower) and annexes, you can also see rooms that were not put back in place during the renovation of the site, the old water tanks, but also the beautifully wooded garden surrounding the whole site.

2- Sai Ngam: The venerable Banyan Tree

Less than 2 km from the Prasat Hin Phimai site, there is an unusual tree. While you may have already seen or heard of the banyan tree ( a type of fig tree, sacred to Hindus and Buddhists), Sai Ngam is a good example of the fantastic creations that the planet can produce.

If the largest of its kind is in India (at the Howrah botanical garden, near Calcutta), with a circumference of 412 m and a diameter of 131 m, this version here in Phimai still measures 120 m in length and 55 m in width, a great achievement!

And again, this is due among other things to the space available to grow finally, limited by the presence of the pond surrounding it, but which adds to the charm of the place. It is a pretty setting to come and sit a little in the shade of the tree, at the edge of the water.

In addition to that, we can mention its venerable age, estimated at 350 years . Considered sacred, in addition to coming to pray at its altar, in the heart of the tree, people leave a piece of paper, writing a wish on it.

Wandering through this tangle of roots and trunks formed by the tree's shoots is quite unique and special. The prayer corner and incense sticks add to the mystical atmosphere, making it truly pleasant. And to top it all off, it's free ! 😉 So there's no excuse not to check it out!

3- In the surroundings of Phimai

Before leaving Phimai, you might want to visit the southern gate of Pratu Chai , a rare remnant of the city wall that once surrounded the town.

You can also go and take a look at the ruins of the Meru of Bharamadat, an ancient stupa built on a small artificial hill from the time when Phimai was briefly a small independent kingdom defying the authority of Ayutthaya at the end of the 18th century.

If you like Khmer temples, you can then complement the visit to Phimai with that of Nakhon Ratchasima and its Prasat Hin Phanomwan , then continue in the region south of Buriram and visit the impressive Phanom Rung (located in a historical park) and the smaller sanctuary of Prasat Hin Muang Tam.

→ See my article dedicated to Phanom Rung and Prasat Muang Tam

4- How to get to Phimai

The easiest way is to first go to Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat), accessible via the Mo Chit northern bus terminal in Bangkok.

Once there, head to Terminal 2 at Nakhon Ratchasima Airport. Buses to Phimai depart every 20 minutes. Most people get off at the Phimai City Clock Tower, but just in case, be aware that this isn't the final stop, so you'll need to ask to get off there.

The Nakhon Ratchasima – Phimai connection should not cost more than 60 Baht for a duration of 1h30.

It is also possible to get there from the north of Issan, if you arrive from Nong Khai for example.

5- Where to stay in Phimai

Sleeping in Phimai will not necessarily be common, in my case, I only passed through, continuing my journey further once the visits there were done.

If you happen to have time to stop for the night (especially if you're traveling by public transport), there are of course several guesthouses around the historical site. For example, the Benya Guesthouse offers good value for money and is a good option to consider.

Alternatively, you can find what you're looking for using the search tool below:

Yet another good reason to come and discover Issan, isn’t it?