Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

History of Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

It is believed that the temple was built on a site previously occupied by an older religious complex, probably Khmer and dating from the Dvaravati period (6th ^– 11th ^centuries ). The presence of a moat surrounding the enclosure attests to this: it symbolizes the celestial ocean surrounding the sacred mountain, Mount Meru. However, no visible structures from this period remain.

The "modern" foundation of the temple dates back to 1357 (some sources mention 1363), during the reign of the first ruler of Ayutthaya, King U-Thong (Ramathibodi I, r. 1350–1369).

The origin of the construction is linked to a family tragedy: two princes, Chao Kaeo and Chao Thai — sons of one of the king's wives — succumbed to cholera. The king then ordered the exhumation of their bodies and the construction, on the cremation site, of a sacred monument (a chedi) and a preaching hall (viharn).

Shortly after, the complex welcomed a community of monks recently ordained by Somdet Phra Wannarat , the patriarch of the kingdom. These monks had returned from Ceylon (present-day Sri Lanka), where they had studied Buddhist scriptures and deepened their meditation practice. At that time, the temple was called Wat Pa Kaeo (or Wat Pakew), which can be translated as "Temple of the Crystal Forest."

Two centuries later, in 1548 , the temple served as a meeting place for a plot to overthrow King Worawongsathirat, considered an usurper. He and his wife, Si Sudachan, were assassinated after only 42 days on the throne. This coup brought Prince Thianracha to power, crowned as Maha Chakkraphat (r. 1548–1569), the legitimate heir to the Suphannaphum dynasty that had ruled Ayutthaya for nearly 150 years.

Although no official mention appears in the royal chronicles, the major expansion of the temple is considered to be directly linked to King Naresuan 's resounding victory over the Burmese army in 1592.

This famous historical episode, known as the Battle of Nong Sarai , saw Naresuan face off against the Burmese Crown Prince Mingyi Swa in single combat, mounted on a war elephant. This epic duel, won by the Siamese ruler, is depicted in numerous paintings throughout the country—including on one of the interior walls of the ubosot at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon.

Following this victory, King Naresuan ordered the restoration and expansion of the temple. The large chedi was then raised and renamed Phra Chedi Chaiya Mongkhon , giving the temple its current name. It was also during this period that a hall housing a reclining Buddha was added, oriented north-south with its face turned towards the east.

Two centuries later, the temple still played a strategic role. In 1766 , faced with the advancing Burmese armies, King Ekathat appointed Phraya of Tak (the future King Taksin) commander of a fleet tasked with defending the capital. It was at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon that he assembled his troops before the assault. The following year, in 1767, Ayutthaya fell: the temple was looted and abandoned for nearly two centuries.

The monastery was officially restored in 1957 , becoming one of the few historical temples in Ayutthaya still active today. It was at this time that the concrete statues lining the cloister were added. The reclining Buddha was reconstructed in 1965, the original having been too badly damaged by looting.

Finally, in 1979 , the abbot of the temple launched, in collaboration with the Thai Department of Fine Arts, the reconstruction of the ubosot, while preserving the original structural elements that remain visible.

Architecture of Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

The temple's general structure follows the classic Ayutthaya sanctuary pattern, with an east-west alignment: viharn to the west , large chedi in the center , and ubosot to the east . The chedi is surrounded by a cloister, originally covered, and the surrounding area is dotted with several smaller chedis of varying sizes.

As the temple is still active, it also features kutis —small wooden houses on stilts that serve as accommodations for the monks. In the northeast corner, the remains of the viharn that housed the large reclining Buddha can still be seen.

1 – The big chedi (Phra Chedi Chai Mongkhon)

Standing 60 meters tall , the Great Chedi was one of Ayutthaya's most prominent landmarks, especially for those arriving from the east. It is one of the few monuments, along with Wat Phu Khao Thong, to incorporate elements inspired by Burmese architecture.

The chedi consists of three parts:
– a square base with sides of 32 m,
– an elevated orthogonal structure, forming a terrace 15 m high,
– a bell-shaped dome typical of the Ayutthaya period.

Small chedis are located at the four corners of the terrace. The absence of modern buildings nearby still allows for an unobstructed view of the city from this platform.

An east-facing staircase leads into the chedi, with a fork providing access to the terrace. In the chamber beneath the dome are several Buddha statues, as well as a central well marking the original location of the relics.

Tradition dictates that a coin be thrown into the bottom of the well, aiming for the center of the stone square: if it falls in, it is a good omen, heralding luck or the fulfillment of a wish made just before.

2 – The gallery

A rectangular gallery surrounds the main chedi. Once covered, only the bases of the pillars remain today. Along the inner wall, there is a row of seated Buddha statues, deliberately left in their raw state, without gilding or paint.

These statues were created during the temple's restoration in 1957, replacing the originals which had deteriorated too much. Some contain the ashes of the deceased, as indicated by the plaques affixed to their base.

Near the left-hand mondop, a small tent allows visitors to make a donation and hang an orange cloth (symbolizing the monks' robe) around a statue, while reciting a prayer.

3 – The Mondops

Two mondops stand on either side of the staircase leading into the chedi. The pyramidal structures that once covered them have collapsed, leaving the statues exposed to the open air. Restored, they now serve as places of prayer: visitors can leave offerings or wrap the statue in a cloth as a gesture of devotion.

4 – The main viharn

To the west of the chedi lie the remains of the great preaching hall, where monks gathered for sermons. Little remains but the foundations, now adorned with hedges to "beautify" the site. At the far end, modern statues depict disciples facing a standing Buddha.

5 – The Ubosot

Located to the east, the ordination hall ( ubosot ) originally measured 16 m by 44 m. It is now covered by a more modest, modern framework, erected over the old structure to preserve it.

The main statue inside, Phra Phuttha Chaiya Mongkhon , is one of the most revered in Ayutthaya. The site is very popular with worshippers, who often pray on the outer esplanade corresponding to the original entrance. The metal bars visible on the facades attest to an unfinished decorative project—probably not due to a lack of funds, but because it was never completed.

6 – The viharn with the reclining Buddha

In the northeast corner of the complex, near the parking lot and the main entrance, are the ruins of the viharn housing a large reclining Buddha statue . Erected during the reign of Naresuan, the whole is oriented north-south, with the face turned towards the rising sun.

The roof is gone, but the statue is still framed by sections of wall. It is a modern reconstruction, with a rare feature: the eyes are wide open, whereas reclining Buddhas are generally depicted with closed eyes.