Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

Le Wat Yai Chai MongkhonThe temple, whose name literally means "Temple of the Great Auspicious Victory," was founded in the early years of the kingdom by King U-Thong, the first ruler of Ayutthaya. Located outside the old city walls of the capital, it housed a community of monks returning from Sri Lanka, thus becoming the seat of the patriarch, the supreme monk of the kingdom.

History of Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

It is assumed that the temple was built on a site previously occupied by an older religious complex, probably Khmer and dating from the period Dvaravati (VI^e - XI^e century). The presence of a moat surrounding the enclosure testifies to this: it symbolizes the celestial ocean surrounding the sacred mountain, Mount Meru. However, no visible structures from this period remain.

The "modern" foundation of the temple dates back to 1357 (some sources mention 1363), during the reign of the first ruler of Ayutthaya, King U-Thong (Ramathibodi I, r. 1350–1369).

The origin of the building is linked to a family tragedy: two princes, Chao Kaeo et Chao Thai — sons of one of the king's wives — succumbed to cholera. The king then ordered the exhumation of their bodies and the construction, on the cremation site, of a sacred monument (a chedi) and a preaching hall (viharn).

Shortly afterwards, the complex housed a community of monks recently ordained by Somdet Phra Wannarat, patriarch of the kingdom. These monks were returning from Ceylon (present-day Sri Lanka), where they had studied Buddhist scriptures and deepened their meditation practice. At that time, the temple was called Wat Pa Kaeo (or Wat Pakew), which can be translated as "Temple of the Crystal Forest".

Two centuries later, in 1548The temple served as a meeting place for a plot to overthrow King Worawongsathirat, considered a usurper. He and his wife, Si Sudachan, were assassinated after only 42 days on the throne. This coup brought Prince Thianracha to power, crowned as... Maha Chakkraphat (r. 1548–1569), legitimate heir to the Suphannaphum dynasty which had ruled Ayutthaya for nearly 150 years.

Although no official mention appears in the royal chronicles, the major expansion of the temple is considered to be directly linked to the king's resounding victory. Naresuan on the Burmese army in 1592.

This famous historical episode, known as the Battle of Nong SaraiNaresuan faced off in single combat, on the back of a war elephant, against the Burmese crown prince Mingyi Swa. This epic duel, won by the Siamese sovereign, is depicted in numerous paintings across the country — including on one of the interior walls of the ubosot at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon.

Following this victory, King Naresuan ordered the restoration and expansion of the temple. The great chedi was then raised and given the name of Phra Chedi Chaiya Mongkhongiving the temple its current name. It was also during this period that a room housing a Reclining Buddha was added, oriented north-south with the face turned towards the east.

Two centuries later, the temple still plays a strategic role. 1766Faced with the advance of the Burmese armies, King Ekathat appointed the Phraya of Tak (future King Taksin) commander of a fleet tasked with defending the capital. It was at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon that he assembled his troops before the assault. The following year, in 1767, Ayutthaya fell: the temple was looted and abandoned for nearly two centuries.

The monastery was officially re-established in 1957, becoming one of the few historical temples in Ayutthaya still active today. It was during this period that the concrete statues lined up around the cloister were added. The Reclining Buddha It was rebuilt in 1965, the original having been too damaged by looting.

Finally, in 1979The abbot of the temple, in collaboration with the Thai Department of Fine Arts, launched the reconstruction of the ubosot, while preserving the original structural elements that remain visible.

Architecture of Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

The general structure of the temple follows the classic pattern of Ayutthaya sanctuaries, with an east-west alignment: viharn to the west, large chedi in the center et ubosot to the eastThe chedi is surrounded by a cloister that was originally covered, and the surrounding area is dotted with several secondary chedis of varying sizes.

Since the temple is still active, one can also find there... kutis — small wooden houses on stilts serving as accommodations for the monks. In the northeast corner, one can still see the remains of the viharn which housed the large reclining Buddha.

1 – The big chedi (Phra Chedi Chai Mongkhon)

With 60m highThe great chedi was one of Ayutthaya's most visible landmarks, especially for those arriving from the east. It is one of the few monuments, along with Wat Phu Khao Thong, to incorporate elements inspired by Burmese architecture.

The chedi consists of three parts:
– a square base with sides of 32 m,
– an elevated orthogonal structure, forming a terrace 15 m high,
– a bell-shaped dome typical of the Ayutthaya period.

Small chedis are located at the four corners of the terrace. The absence of modern buildings nearby still allows for an unobstructed view of the city from this platform.

An east-facing staircase leads into the chedi, with a fork providing access to the terrace. In the chamber beneath the dome are several Buddha statues, as well as a central well marking the original location of the relics.

Tradition dictates that a coin be thrown into the bottom of the well, aiming for the center of the stone square: if it falls in, it is a good omen, heralding luck or the fulfillment of a wish made just before.

2 – The gallery

A rectangular gallery surrounds the main chedi. Once covered, only the bases of the pillars remain today. Along the inner wall, there is a row of seated Buddha statues, deliberately left in their raw state, without gilding or paint.

These statues were created during the temple's restoration in 1957, replacing the originals which had deteriorated too much. Some contain the ashes of the deceased, as indicated by the plaques affixed to their base.

Near the left-hand mondop, a small tent allows visitors to make a donation and hang an orange cloth (symbolizing the monks' robe) around a statue, while reciting a prayer.

3 – The Mondops

Two mondops stand on either side of the staircase leading into the chedi. The pyramidal structures that once covered them have collapsed, leaving the statues exposed to the open air. Restored, they now serve as places of prayer: visitors can leave offerings or wrap the statue in a cloth as a gesture of devotion.

4 – The main viharn

To the west of the chedi lie the remains of the great preaching hall, where monks gathered for sermons. Little remains but the foundations, now adorned with hedges to "beautify" the site. At the far end, modern statues depict disciples facing a standing Buddha.

5 – The Ubosot

Located to the east, the ordination hall (ubosotIt originally measured 16 m by 44 m. Today it is covered by a more modest, modern framework, erected over the old structure to preserve it.

The main statue inside, Phra Phuttha Chaiya MongkhonThe temple is one of the most revered in Ayutthaya. It is very popular with worshippers, who often pray on the outer esplanade corresponding to the original entrance. The metal bars visible on the facades are evidence of an unfinished decorative project—probably not due to a lack of resources, but because it was never completed.

6 – The viharn with the reclining Buddha

In the northeast corner of the complex, near the parking lot and the main entrance, are the ruins of the viharn housing a large statue of Reclining BuddhaErected during the reign of Naresuan, the complex is oriented north-south, with the face turned towards the rising sun.

The roof is gone, but the statue is still framed by sections of wall. It is a modern reconstruction, with a rare feature: the eyes are wide open, whereas reclining Buddhas are generally depicted with closed eyes.