Ayutthaya is often visited on a day trip from Bangkok. Its proximity to the capital makes it easily accessible, and a day can be enough to see the major temples and get a first impression of the former capital of Siam. This is precisely what I detail in another article dedicated to... Ayutthaya's must-sees in one day.
But whether you're a history buff or prefer to take your time, the city is brimming with ancient temples, some still in use, which reveal a completely different side of it. By venturing away from the most frequented sites and slightly outside the historic island, you'll stumble upon equally interesting historical and architectural remains.
This article is for those planning a two-day stay in Ayutthaya who prefer to take their time exploring and discovering the ancient capital in depth. The idea is to dedicate the first day to the major attractions, and then the second day to lesser-known sights and walks that offer a different perspective on Ayutthaya.
Day 1 in Ayutthaya: the must-see temples
This first day corresponds to the most classic route in Ayutthaya, centered on the major temples while also including some less iconic sites.
As such, there's nothing stopping you from also choosing from the temples mentioned for the second day. But the main idea here is to lay a solid foundation:
→ If, for whatever reason, you have to change your plans and end up only staying one day in Ayutthaya, you will at least have seen the essentials of what makes this historic city famous, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as a reminder. Unesco World Heritage.
The great classics, in short
I've listed them in the order they appear in my article detailing these visits. It's not essential to follow this order exactly, but it maintains a logical geographical sequence that helps optimize travel time:
- Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon
- Wat Mahathat
- Wat phra si sanphet
- Wat Lokaya Sutha
- Wat Phu Khao Thong
- Wat Chai Watthanaram
👉 For details on the history of the ancient capital and temples, please refer to the article The essentials of Ayutthaya in one day.
Day 2 in Ayutthaya: secondary temples and quieter sightseeing
This second day marks a change of pace and allows for a more relaxed exploration of Ayutthaya. After the major temples, it's time to visit lesser-known sites, generally overlooked on a first visit, as these are more secluded temples than those mentioned so far.
To be transparent, these temples were visited in the order presented, during the same day, on the occasion of a short trip outside Bangkok with Jitima, to complete my "collection" of temples in Ayutthaya.
We traveled by car, which is certainly convenient and especially faster than cycling, the usual mode of transport. But since we didn't leave particularly early, this itinerary is perfectly doable by bike or, even better, by tuk-tuk, and gives a good idea of the pace possible for this second day.
Two large complexes of historical importance
wat kudi dao
We began the day at Wat Kudi Dao, located just east of the historic island. This area, bordered by several canals, corresponds to what can be seen as a form of proto-Ayutthaya. Many sources believe that the site was already inhabited before the arrival of King U-Thong, who established his capital there in 1351.
Wat Kudi Dao does not have a precise founding date, but the current temple was originally located at the intersection of two canals that have now almost disappeared, the Khlong Pradu and the Khlong Kudi Dao.
Little information exists regarding the origin of its name, as the temple is only clearly mentioned in royal chronicles during the reign of Thai Sa (1709-1733). What can be said, however, is that Wat Kudi Dao likely derives its name from kudi, the traditional dwellings of monks, while dao means "star" in Thai.
These same chronicles report that King Thai Sa's younger brother went there to be ordained a monk. This explains why, while King Thai Sa was undertaking major renovations at Wat Maheyong, his younger brother—the future Borommakot—began restoring Wat Kudi Dao in 1711. The two monasteries, located close to each other, were then connected by a canal.
This brings me to the first building visible upon arriving at the complex, named Tamnak KammalianWe are here just outside the temple walls, facing a two-story building with arched windows, which reflect a marked Muslim influence.
This building is not part of the temple, as it is a temporary palace built by the future King Borommakot to reside there during the restoration work. Its architecture thus differs markedly from the rest of the site. Its state of preservation intrigued me when I saw photos, and it prompted to visit Wat Kudi Dao.
On one exterior side of the structure, a pagoda fig tree — also known as a bodhi tree — has taken root, providing welcome shade along the north facade.
After thoroughly photographing the building from all angles, we finally enter the temple itself, clearly delimited by a perimeter wall, also in excellent condition.
We then find ourselves facing a large room, which adjoins another beautiful tree. Here again, the walls are largely intact, except for a rear facade ripped open in a V shape, like a scar that has never healed.
In modern temples, we generally find this same configuration: a viharn on one side, and a second building which then corresponds to theubosot, the ordination room.
The distinction is normally made thanks to the presence, around theubosotsymbolic stones called bai semaAlthough they have now disappeared, the location of the pedestals that held them can still be discerned. But what allows for a more certain identification of theubosot This is what you discover when you go inside.
This ubosot is distinguished by the presence of a visible hole in front of the remains of the altar: it corresponds to the location of a luk nimit, a ritual stone sphere buried during the temple's consecration ceremony, marking its sacred character.
One distinction from this ubosot is the presence of false windows on these walls. These were once finished with black lacquer and covered with gold leaf.
Behind the ordination hall is the main chedi. This large, bell-shaped chedi is built in the Sri Lankan style.
With a rounded shape at the top, it rests on a square platform, a terrace previously surrounded by a balustrade, which allowed the faithful to walk around it three times counter-clockwise.
A practice that remains relevant today, which can be observed in temples such as Wat Phra That Lampang Luang (in Lampang) or Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (in Chiang Mai), to name just a few.
Square-based chedis completed the decoration at each corner, not to mention other chedis of varying sizes and states of preservation, scattered throughout the temple grounds.
The large spire that formed the tip of the chedi has collapsed, but it can still be seen on the ground below, with a large piece literally planted upside down, giving a good idea of the scale of the structure.
Next, we come to the other building that makes up the temple, the sermon hall (what is called a viharn in Thailand), located on the other side of the chedi.
The interior is less interesting here, as only the bases of the columns remain, but, surprisingly, we find this same V-shaped collapse on the back wall.
The whole Wat Kudi Dao is very photogenic...to the point that we easily spent a good half hour there before leaving to go to the neighboring temple. If I have one complaint, it's that with the more recent renovations, the floor has been entirely paved with bricks, which strongly reflects the heat.
Before crossing the road to head towards Wat Maheyong, we also took a quick look at the chedi of Wat Chakkrawat, located right next to Wat Kudi Dao.
Wat Maheyong
The founding date of this temple is known: it was established in 1438 by King Borommaracha II (also known as Chao Sam Phraya). The name Wat Maheyong is believed to derive from Mahiyanga, an ancient Buddhist site in the Sri Lanka, linked to the Buddha's legendary first visit to the island shortly after his Enlightenment.
When I mentioned the historical importance of these temples earlier, it was primarily because during the Burmese War of 1568–1569, the army of the Burmese king Bayinnaung established its camp at Maheyong Monastery. It was here that King Mahinthrathirat of Ayutthaya presented himself to the Burmese sovereign after the fall of the capital in August 1569.
Finally, as mentioned previously, the temple was renovated under the reign of King Thai Sa from 1709 onwards, which explains its generally very good state of preservation.
The sovereign also had a temporary residence built there for the duration of the works (three years): the Tamnak Maheyong, whose remains are visible a little further south of Wat Maheyong, but in a significantly worse state than that built by his brother at the neighboring temple.
The importance of this temple is quickly understood through its unique access. ubosotWe are indeed walking along a corridor that was originally reserved for members of the royal family, a configuration that I had never seen anywhere else in Thailand.
The ubosot It is itself imposing, measuring 35 meters long by 17 meters wide. The boundary markers bai semaThe markings that define the sacred space are clearly visible and leave no doubt about the function of this ordination room, nor about its royal status, reinforced by the presence of double slabs.
I don't know what explains the V-shaped breach in the wall that I also see here, but it's clearly visible on the front facade. Inside, a few octagonal columns still stand, surrounding the altar that once held the Buddha statue at the back of the building.
Today, a pile of statue fragments is placed at its base to preserve a sense of sacredness. Offerings are still left there, and locals come to pray, lighting incense in the provided pots.
From the outside, one detail confirms that the renovation dates from the end of the Ayutthaya period: the visible curve of the wall, in a style known as "junk," characteristic of that era. I also notice that there is a pool next to theubosot, which is not something that is usually common (I had already seen it, but at Kamphaeng Phet(older site, near Sukhothai).
Otherwise, as always, the temple precinct includes the remains of minor stupas. But to the west of the ordination hall, the main chedi dominates, incorporating Sinhalese architectural elements. Its spire has collapsed, but it remains visible on the ground, right next to the structure.
This bell-shaped chedi rests on a square base measuring 32 meters on each side, once decorated with 80 elephant sculptures—twenty on each side—evoking the age of the Buddha at his death. This configuration is not unique: it can also be found at Chedi Chang Lom from Sukhothai.
Another chedi, smaller but still complete, is located in the southwest corner of the temple. From this spot, one can also see an isolated chedi in the middle of what now looks like an empty field, which is actually the remains of Wat Chang.
On the other side, we won't see it, but there are also the remains of another small temple, Wat Sika Samut.
Also, a monastery that is still in operation
Although the ruined section can be visited separately, it is actually located in front of the current temple, as Wat Maheyong is still in operation and serves as a renowned center for meditation.
This is why, upon arrival, you'll see many people dressed in light white clothing, indicating they are participating in a meditation retreat. The area is largely shaded, thanks to the many trees planted around it. Naturally, if you come here, silence is essential so as not to disturb those practicing.
At the rear of the site, a pond enhanced the grounds, with an artificial waterfall at its end. Along this pond, a kind of cloister, mimicking the appearance of a cave, offers a place for meditation by the water's edge, sheltered from both sun and rain.
But the centerpiece of this temple in its modern version remains the construction of a new viharnnamed Prasat Phra Borommathat Chedi Maha Viharn, of monumental dimensions — nearly 100 meters long!
Its shape and appearance are reminiscent of the Sanphet Prasat Palace visible in Ancient Siam (or Muang Boran, the park located southeast of Bangkok), itself a reconstruction of what the royal palace in Ayutthaya must have been like.
Temples that are still active and frequented locally
Wat Mae Nang Pluem
We change zones and this time head to the north of the historical island of Ayutthaya. Wat Mae Nang Pluem preserves several written records of its existence, which allow us to know its founding date: 1377.
Its current name was later bestowed upon it by King Naresuan (1590–1605), a major figure in Thai history. According to tradition, the sovereign was sheltered one stormy night by an old woman named Lady Pluem, who welcomed him as her own son, unaware that he was the king. In gratitude, the temple was subsequently dedicated to him.
As a side note, Wat Mae Nang Pluem is now divided in two, on either side of the road that runs through the neighborhood. The most historically interesting part is on one side, while the other runs along the river.
It is also on this side that there is a pedestrian bridge leading to the royal market of Hua Ro, built on the site of the old Maha Chai fort.
According to some sources, it was by breaching this fort that the Burmese entered the city, precipitating the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767.
The temple features an imposing viharn, whose facade clearly betrays its age. One notable peculiarity: while the openings are generally rectangular, the central entrance here adopts a curved arch – a detail you might say, but rare enough to be worth mentioning.
The interior has remained untouched and despite the absence of murals, which have surely disappeared over time, this still gives it a certain charm.
The Buddha statue enthroned in the background is in very good condition and stands out for its white color, where many are simply gilded.
The ubosot, located on the left, appears to have undergone more extensive renovation, but it was closed when we passed by — not unusual, since it is the most sacred space in the temple and is not always open to the public.
The chedi remains, of a size comparable to those already observed earlier in the day. What distinguishes it here is the presence around its base not of elephants, but of lion statues.
While the whole is generally inspired by the Sukhothai style (notably the idea of surrounding the base with animals), the use of lions, clearly influenced by Khmer architecture, would echo the conquest of Angkor in 1431 by King Borommaracha II (r. 1424–1448).
Nowadays, the only other temple I know of with a chedi featuring this type of decoration in Ayutthaya is Wat Thammikarat.
Wat Choengtha
Wat Choeng Tha is a modest temple, but interesting for the way it blends past and present. The active part of the monastery is located slightly east of the older structures.
It contains all the typical buildings of a still active temple (monks' quarters, bell tower, viharn, etc.) and, in addition, a small museum presenting ancient ceramics and local terracotta handicrafts.
If I came here, it certainly wasn't for this contemporary section. I've seen enough "ordinary" temples not to linger here, and the only photo I took was of the altar dedicated to King Taksin, located in front of the modern viharn.
The presence of this statue is explained by the fact that the future founder of the kingdom of Thonburi — then governor of Tak, under the name of Phraya Taksin — is said to have completed his monastic period in this temple before the fall of Ayutthaya.
The older part of the site, however, is more interesting. The remains here are distinguished by an unusual configuration: seen from the sky, the ruin takes the form of a cross, with a prang (a Khmer-style chedi) directly integrated into the center of the structure.
More specifically, the prang is attached to the viharn, surrounded by small intervening rooms. The date of the temple's foundation, as well as the identity of its patron, remain unknown, but the presence of this prang suggests a construction dating back to the early Ayutthaya period.
The site has undergone several phases of renovation, notably at the end of the 17th century and then during the reign of Borommakot, which explains the presence of numerous traces of Buddha sculptures and stucco decorations still visible on the remains.
Nearby is also an old ubosotCompletely renovated. Having nothing particularly striking to show from the outside, I didn't bother to take a look. The rest of the site consists of a collection of small chedis arranged in front of the viharn.
As time was passing, I didn't want to linger any longer, as I was saving the sunset for the last temple of the day. So we missed the other attraction: a sermon hall located on the riverbank.
Built later, during the reign of Rama IV, to whom the temple owes its current name, it houses beautiful centuries-old paintings, notably created by the abbot of the temple at that time.
Wat Phra Ngam (“Portal of Time”)
Wat Phra Ngam is the last temple on my list for today, and that's no coincidence. It's best known for its entrance, nicknamed the "Gate of Time."
This little nickname comes from the old brick main gate, beautifully enveloped by the intertwined roots of a banyan tree, forming a natural arch that truly gives the impression of stepping back in time when passing through it.
It's very photogenic, let's not kid ourselves, and the spot is especially enhanced by the sunset — the best time of day to visit this ruin, hence my obvious choice of timing!
The reason is simple: the sun then sets almost directly in line with the door, reinforcing the mystical aspect of the place, with the rays of light passing through.
Beyond its visual appeal, the gate is also perfectly aligned with the walkway leading to the still-standing chedi. To avoid any disappointment, let's be clear: the rest of the temple itself isn't particularly impressive. The site is quite small, and apart from its intact chedi, little more than the foundations of the old buildings remain.
But to end the day, it was perfect — and it can also make an excellent conclusion to a stay in Ayutthaya.
And if you still have a little leeway
Depending on your pace, it is quite possible to fit in one or two additional visits, possibly outside of temples, just to add some variety.
In our case, this interlude took place between two areas, after the Wat Kudi Dao / Wat Maheyong combo and before reaching Wat Mae Nang Pluem.
Walks and more secluded spots
Phet Fortress
We killed two birds with one stone by wanting to eat in a restaurant by the river, and taking advantage of the opportunity to visit the Phet fort, located right next door.
Called in Thai "Pom Phet", or Diamond Fortress, it was one of the sixteen fortresses that once protected the walls of Ayutthaya, and one of only two of which remains still exist today.
The site now serves as a public park. It is located at the southeastern tip of the historic island, specifically at the confluence of the Pa Sak and Chao Phraya rivers. It therefore offers views of the river and the Wat Phanan Choeng Worawihan which can be seen on the other bank.
Due to its strategic location, Pom Phet was the most important fortress in the defensive system. It protected the port where foreign ships, which were not allowed to go beyond this point, were forced to anchor for inspection and unloading.
The old bridges
You may not know this, but originally, Ayutthaya operated on the same principle as Bangkok, known for its vast network of canals.
Because while many have disappeared today, there was once a whole network of canals allowing travel by boat through the old capital. And where there are canals, there are bridges. One of them is actually quite easy to spot—or at least what remains of it—if you pass by the intersection between the Wat Mahathat (and its famous Buddha head) and the What Ratchaburana.
In the middle of this fork, where a small ruin also stands by the roadside, one can still see the pillars of an old bridge, in the very spot where a canal once passed in front of the temples.
But if you're looking for a complete bridge, in a discreet and very photogenic setting, I have just the thing for you. Along the main thoroughfare called Si Sanphet Road — which leads to the temple of the same name and crosses Ayutthaya from north to south — you will pass a ruin visible behind a barrier: the Wat Boromphuttharam.
This ruin, as well as another that cannot be seen directly (the Wat Singharam), are both located within the grounds of the Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Rajabhat University.
Needless to say, one would not spontaneously rush in upon finding oneself facing one of the campus entrances.
And yet, there's nothing stopping you from going to take a look. To clarify, this visit was not made on the same day as the visit to the temples mentioned earlier in the article.
As you head towards this temple, and then pass behind a building belonging to the sports faculty, you will come across the Dinso bridgeNot only is it intact, but it still spans its canal — now isolated from the rest of the network — and is surrounded by several banyan trees.
In addition to providing welcome shade, the trees spread their roots which intertwine gracefully on the ground all around — which is to say that the visual effect is guaranteed.
It turns out that another bridge is also visible within this same university, the Wanon BridgeWe obviously went to see him right away.
The Wanon bridge is also a beautiful structure that is still complete, but its surroundings — including a rather ugly building in the background — make it significantly less striking.
Chao Sam Phraya National Museum
If you happen to be visiting on a rainy day, it could be a good opportunity to schedule a museum visit. And in Ayutthaya, if you only have time for one museum, the National Museum is the most important one.
Recently renovated and, most importantly, enhanced with a wing entirely dedicated to the gold treasures discovered in the city (Ayutthaya Gold Treasure Exhibition Building), there is a beautiful collection of jewelry, ceramics, statues and relics, both religious and related to daily life.
Normally, I'm not much of a museum person, but this one captivated me quite a bit, especially because the history of Ayutthaya, which spans several centuries, is particularly interesting.
Ayutthaya in two days: practical tips
Getting around Ayutthaya
Ayutthaya is a fairly spread-out city, with the sites to visit spread between the historic island and its immediate surroundings. Walking alone is therefore not a viable way to see the city as a whole, especially since the sometimes overwhelming heat would quickly make the experience unpleasant.
Cycling is the most popular option, especially for exploring the island and visiting temples that are close together. It's pleasant early in the morning, but, again, it can quickly become tiring during the hottest hours or when distances are longer. Not to mention that traffic can make the experience hazardous, especially with children.
That leaves the tuk-tuk, undoubtedly the most practical alternative, especially if there are several of you.
→ a reference for a driver: Tony Tuk Tuk Ayutthaya
For greater freedom, a scooter is the most flexible option, especially if you plan to visit temples that are a bit further out or explore different areas over two days. For more information, please refer to my article on the... driving in thailand, in order to be in compliance and well prepared.
When to go to Ayutthaya
Ayutthaya can be visited all year round, but certain periods make the experience more or less comfortable, especially when you are doing a series of visits on foot, by bicycle or by scooter.
→ From November to FebruaryWith more bearable temperatures and no rain, it's clearly the most pleasant time to explore the ruins, even if it's inevitably the busiest. That said, because the site is so spread out, the feeling of crowds is generally limited, except at a few very popular spots like Wat Chai Watthanaram and Wat Mahathat.
→ From March onwards, and especially in AprilThe heat becomes significantly more challenging. Sightseeing is still possible, but you need to adjust your pace, prioritize the beginning and end of the day, and be prepared to take more breaks.
→ The rainy season, from May to OctoberThis doesn't prevent you from visiting Ayutthaya. The showers are often short, in the late afternoon, and the temples sometimes take on an interesting atmosphere. September remains the wettest month, however, and October can still be a bit unpredictable depending on the year.
Generally speaking, as is often the case in Thailand, leaving early is the best option to make the most of the day. The temples are quieter in the early morning and the heat is still bearable (don't expect this in March or April, though).
The middle of the day can be devoted to a break, a long lunch, or an indoor visit, such as to a museum.
In the late afternoon, the light softens and the temperature drops, making it ideal for exploring open ruins, riverbanks, or certain temples that are particularly photogenic at sunset. Unfortunately, this window of opportunity is quite short: the sun sets quickly here, and temple opening hours also limit the chances of extending your visit.
Where to sleep in Ayutthaya
Over two days, staying near the historical park allows you to maintain some flexibility in your schedule: leave early without constraints, take a real break in the middle of the day, then go out again in the late afternoon without having to replan everything.
You can find everything from simple guesthouses to more comfortable hotels, at reasonable prices compared to Bangkok. The higher the price range, the more likely the establishments are to be located by the river or on the outskirts.
Areas near the train station or along the riverbanks outside the island are also interesting options.
Two good options for those on a budget:
For those with comfortable budgets: Baan Veanglhek Residence
Organize visits
Over two days, you will have the opportunity tobalance the program : as I mentioned, a first day more focused on the major temples, then a second more relaxed day, with less crowded visits or a few walks to unwind.
In itself, there's no strict route to follow, but a little common sense will help avoid unnecessary backtracking. For the first day, I've already established an order that I believe optimizes movement.
Overall, the ideal is to group visits by area, as we were able to do on the second day by starting with the area in the east, before heading back up towards the north of the historic island.
The great thing about Thailand is that you can eat at any time of day, so there's no need to plan your sightseeing around restaurant opening hours. Spreading your visits over two days avoids that feeling of being rushed, which is often what makes exploring Ayutthaya more enjoyable. So don't hesitate to take breaks now and then, otherwise you risk quickly becoming overwhelmed.
Settle down in one of the many small cafes, let yourself drift a little. Ayutthaya is a historical park, but by taking the time to explore beyond the most famous temples, you discover another facet, blending history and local life, which often goes unnoticed during a simple round trip from Bangkok.
