Doi Tung is best known for its beautifully flowered gardens and Phra Tamnak Doi Tung, a villa that served as the residence of Princess Srinagarindra, grandmother of the current King Rama X.
It remains a classic destination in the region, often included in day trips from Chiang Rai. But if you are traveling independently and are a little curious, there is much more to discover in the surrounding area.
While Doi Tung is accessible in one hour from Chiang Rai, you can also make a beautiful day loop by passing through Chiang Saen and the Golden Triangle Park ( which I talk about here ), combining with the Mae Sai border market before reaching Doi Tung via route 1149.
This small road climbs sharply into the mountains, running along the Burmese border. It passes through several coffee-producing villages, including Ban Pha Hi, and offers breathtaking views of the neighboring country.
Route 1149: a route bordering Burma
I was just talking about it, and it is the common thread of these visits. Route 1149 really comes back to flirting with Burma, the latter running along the crest of the Doi Nang Non mountain, which acts as a real natural border with its neighbor. Basically, the road starts from the crossroads with Route 1290, which comes directly from the Hall of Opium and the Golden Triangle.
This junction is close to Mae Sai city centre, just 3 km from the border post. It is also possible to reach this same road 1149 from Tessaban Road 5, located right next to Mae Sai market.
Ban Pha Mi, the starting point
For my part, I started this route from an intermediate road located 2 km from the crossroads. This leads to the village of Ban Pha Mi, which takes its name from the Doi Pha Mi located next door. A little bonus info, by passing through there, you are next to Tham Luang Nang Non, located only 2 km from the climb to the village.
The cave, actually a series of cavities located beneath Doi Nang Non, became famous after an incident involving 12 members of a local football team and their coach who were trapped in the cave following a heavy rainstorm in July 2018.
When I first passed through this road, the area remained relatively well-known only to locals and under the radar, but this sudden international spotlight was going to change things a bit... Because yes, this celebrity was not without consequences, with a marked desire among the population to discover this region, and therefore a craze for traveling the road and its villages.
If, due to its proximity to Mae Sai and the valley, Ban Pha Mi already enjoyed a certain popularity before that, with the proven presence of a few cafes on its slope, Ban Pha Hi, located a little further away, was transformed in just a few years following this event… but I'll come to that later.
In any case, the first time I went to the area, I was blown away by the karst rock formations that stretched out before me. I didn't know it at the time (I went there a few months later), but these landscapes are somewhat reminiscent, to a lesser extent, of the mountains of northern Vietnam.
The road that winds through the village was still just a small paved road, barely wider than a car despite being two-way. And if since then it is tarmacked and a bit wider (but not that much), the climb up here is still worth it, especially since the view from the top of the village remains just as beautiful. A good warm-up for the rest which promised to be just as interesting.
On Doi Nang Non
At the top of Ban Pha Mi , Route 1149 is visible. If you turn right, you descend towards Mae Sai. So I turned left , beginning the climb towards the ridge of Doi Nang Non , the main mountain over which Route 1149 winds before reaching Ban Pha Hi.
After 2 km , the climb becomes steeper with a series of hairpin bends . Before the last bend, I spot a bamboo platform set up on the shoulder (downhill side), with a view that definitely warrants a stop. It's a shame there's no parking , because if you're driving, you have to stop on the mountainside (watch out for the ditch), squeezing in as close as possible so as not to obstruct traffic.
If you'd rather avoid stopping by the roadside, an alternative is to visit the "Life Museum ," which isn't really a museum but is actually a nice café-restaurant with a great view. You could also opt for Phamee Hill (ผาหมีฮิลล์) , located a few meters before the road.
The climb is short but intense, with a steep incline. Be careful not to cut corners too far , as visibility is limited.
As you gain altitude, the vegetation gradually changes . At a certain point, pine trees begin to line the road. Depending on the year, the density of the vegetation varies on the right.
The first few times I passed through here, the landscape was quite open, which really encouraged me to stop and enjoy the view. Which I did, of course: after parking as best I could, I jumped over a shallow ditch on the side of the road and found myself facing the mountains of Myanmar.
It's important to know that the Doi Nang Non ridge officially marks the border . And since there's no physical barrier along this section of road, technically, when I crossed the ditch, I was in Myanmar when I took the panoramic photo below.
This road is usually deserted. You might see a few locals on motorbikes, but it's easy to stop and take photos. There are several obvious spots to enjoy the views of the nearby mountains.
Along this section of Route 1149 , you will also come across your first coffee plantations . The coffee trees are planted directly by the roadside, on the mountainside, sheltered by tall pine trees.
Ban Pha Hi: a hilltop Akha village and its local café
When I first discovered this mountain, it was precisely to reach Ban Pha Hi . I had noticed that coffee was produced there and that it was an Akha village. However, this last point isn't immediately obvious, apart from the traditional swing that can be seen at the village entrance.
Otherwise, it looks more like a classic country village, except that it is perched at an altitude of 1,200 m and there are more solid buildings than wooden houses , proof that the coffee trade is a good business!
A village still discreet before Tham Luang
On my very first visit, Ban Pha Hi was still under the radar . There were hardly any visitors, the parking lot at the entrance to the village served more as a playground for kids than anything else, and there were only two cafes in total.
I went to the one I consider to be "the original" , Pha Hee Coffee (so yes, even though the village is called Ban Pha Hi , the cafe chose the spelling Hee ).
Located in the courtyard of a family home , it was at the time a simple open terrace overlooking an incredible panorama, between two mountain peaks. It was precisely this view, spotted on Google Maps, that had prompted me to take Route 1149.
And since I love coffee, I might as well taste it directly from the source! The barista at Pha Hee Coffee has typical Akha features, and even back then, they provided a traditional headdress and clothes for souvenir photos.
All over the village, there were stalls of drying coffee beans and coffee plants near the cooperative, which was then freely accessible.
The rise of the village and the explosion of tourism
With each visit, I see Ban Pha Hi evolve . First, Pha Hee Coffee doubled in size , then they added photo platforms where you can drink your coffee with your feet dangling in the air. See its evolution between 2017 and 2022:
At that time, there were already more visitors, but the village still maintained a certain balance. Then one day, the shock.
The parking lot was full (well, it was a weekend, that also played a part), panoramic platforms had been added all over the place, but above all, two large buildings had sprung up above the original cafe: hotels! Worse! One imposing hotel had literally embedded itself in the middle of the village's main plantation!
Today, Ban Pha Hi has more than a dozen homestays and at least five or six additional cafes . Furthermore, the cooperative is no longer accessible. Gone is the tranquility of its early days, even though the village remains frequented more by Thais than by foreign tourists.
So, is it still worth the trip? Yes, definitely, the view remains incredible. But seeing a place change so quickly is always somewhat frustrating.
Passing through the military base: a strategic area at altitude
Less than 3 km past Ban Pha Hi, continuing along Route 1149 , you'll see an area on your right marked by a bamboo fence. If you look closely, you should spot a yellow, green, and red flag flying from a pole. As you might have guessed, this is Myanmar. More precisely, it's a Burmese military outpost!
A few meters further on, you'll reach a Thai checkpoint . The barrier is closed by default, so you have to stop. They'll just ask where you're coming from and where you're going; simply say you're going to "Doi Tung" and they'll let you through without any problem.
Just after this point, you'll come across the Thai military outpost (marked as Chang Moob Military Outpost on Google Maps), which is open to the public . You can park nearby, and after simply signing a register, a zigzagging bamboo walkway leads to the top of the base.
From up there, the view of the Burmese mountains is breathtaking , with a village visible below. The base is so peaceful that, apart from a few shelters protecting against hypothetical explosions, there's… a small café , located right inside the military outpost! Typically Thai.
Doi Tung and surroundings
Less than a kilometer past the military outposts , we finally arrive in the Doi Tung area . Continuing along Route 1149 , we pass through a small, widened area, with a parking lot on the left and a kind of local market, with a line of vendors on the right, mainly selling fruits and vegetables.
The parking area provides access to the Mae Fah Luang Arboretum , not to be confused with the gardens of the royal villa , located further away. Not being a flower enthusiast, I've never stopped there, but for botany lovers, this site boasts a collection of rare plants and colorful flowerbeds , accessible via shaded paths.
Right next door, a panoramic platform allows you to admire the valley. A pedestrian tunnel passes under the road to access another platform, this time offering a view of the surrounding mountains.
Near the arboretum, a path leads from the market to the Doi Chang Mub stupa , a small pagoda perched on a rock that, seen in profile, resembles a prostrate elephant. The area is surrounded by majestic pine trees and a banyan tree with tangled roots.
The turnoff to Doi Tung
Shortly after the arboretum, you'll reach a fork in the road . Whichever direction you choose, the route remains Route 1149 , and the two paths rejoin further down . However, the attractions vary depending on your choice:
Left: Towards Wat Phra That Doi Tung
One kilometer after the junction, you will reach another fork. Continuing to the right, you continue down Route 1149 , while going left takes you up towards the temple.
Just to the right, on the side of the road, there is a small restaurant. If you haven't eaten yet, this is a nice option, although I usually prefer to stop at Ban Pha Hi. But I have tried this restaurant before and it is very good.
Next to it, stairs lead to the first part of the temple . Here you'll find a modern viharn and a golden chedi, but the place isn't particularly interesting, so you can skip it and continue straight ahead. A sign then indicates Phra That Doi Tung is 1 km away.
The climb to the temple
When I first visited, the road leading to the temple was narrow, just wide enough for two vehicles to pass each other. At that time, it was even still possible to park directly within the temple grounds.
Since then, the road has been completely rebuilt . At one point, there is an unobstructed view of the valley and even of Ban Pha Hi , visible in the distance.
For parking , there are two possible options:
- Le premier (small), shortly after the viewpoint, with a few shops, snacks and toilets. From there, a staircase lined with Nagas leads to the temple.
- The second (larger), located higher, provides direct access to the temple entrance for the least motivated to climb on foot.
If you choose the stairs, a paved and shaded path awaits you, bordered on both sides by an impressive row of bells . It remains easily accessible because, apart from the beginning, it is essentially flat and there are less than 300 meters to walk before reaching the temple terrace.
An important temple undergoing a metamorphosis
From what I've been able to find, Wat Phra That Doi Tung is mentioned in some sources as a temple nearly 1,000 years old . In its current form, it is best known for its two twin golden chedis , built in the Lanna style . It is also an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists.
Because this temple, although modest, is one of the 12 main temples in the country , each associated with a sign of the Chinese zodiac. All are located in the north (four of them in Chiang Mai province alone), except for Wat Phra That Phanom , located near the Mekong River in Isaan (northeast region).
In this case, Wat Phra That Doi Tung is associated with the sign of the Pig , which corresponds to my sign!
Here again, I've seen this temple evolve over time . After just a few years, it underwent a significant facelift . That's normal and not at all shocking. But it was seeing recent photos that made me notice other changes:
- The floor has been completely redone
- Added new structure to side of temple
- Extension of the platform around the temple
The most troubling thing about all this? The site once offered true serenity , surrounded by vegetation . But to prioritize the view, the expansion led to the felling of trees… Yet, a viewpoint already existed just 300 meters from the temple!
Indeed, you will find a staircase on the left side leading to a small path leading to a panoramic platform. Why cut down the trees when there was already a dedicated belvedere?
Right: Towards the village of Ban Musoe Laba
Let's start again from the fork in the road. Let's imagine you've seen enough temples and you choose road 1149 on the right . After 3 km, you'll arrive at the entrance to a village: Ban Musoe Laba.
This is a Lahu village , an ethnic group originating from Yunnan, China. The Lahu are one of the six main ethnic groups considered to be hill tribes in Thailand.
Like Ban Pha Hi , Ban Musoe Laba has nothing particularly distinctive architecturally, at least not enough to clearly identify its ethnic affiliation. But here again, the appeal lies in the combination of the view and… the coffee, of course!
This is actually what prompted me, one day, already familiar with Phra That Doi Tung , to take this road and stop here. Unfortunately, as of this update date (2025), the Laba Cafe and Bistro Doi Tung , the only cafe in the village , appears to be closed.
It's a shame, because the view was really lovely , as was the welcome from the family who ran the place. It's currently listed as "temporarily closed ," so we'll see if that changes…
In principle: note that this route slightly lengthens the journey. Indeed, taking route 1149 from the Wat Phra That Doi Tung side is only 3,7 km to the junction where the two descents meet, compared to 7 km going through this village.
The Royal Villa and Gardens of Mae Fah Luang
Shortly after the junction of the two 1149 roads, the road becomes flatter. You will pass a bend with a water retention basin below and just after a discreet village on your right, you will have a widened area with parking spaces visible on each side.
Opposite this area there is a junction. If you go left, it takes you on route 1149 which in this direction ends up going back down into the valley and back towards “civilization”.
Turning right, as indicated, the road leads to Doi Tung Royal Villa . The climb extends for 1,5 km and, along the way, parking spaces are provided on the left side, evidence that it can get very busy on certain days.
At the top, there's parking on both sides of the road, near the Doi Tung Bazaar , a local market run mainly by members of the Akha ethnic group who live in the neighboring village. It's also in this village that you'll find a guesthouse, the Ruea Phu Mok Homestay . Since parking is limited at the bazaar, the parking areas below help to better distribute the vehicles.
It should be noted that the gardens and the royal villa can be visited independently of each other, the garden being on one side of the road and the villa on the other.
Mae Fah Luang Garden
The name Mae Fah Luang is frequently mentioned in the region (as with Mae Fah Luang University ) and directly refers to the Princess Mother , who worked tirelessly to improve the living conditions of the northern hill tribes. Her frequent helicopter flights over these mountains on her royal missions earned her the nickname "Royal Mother of Heaven" or "Celestial Royal Mother . "
The Mae Fah Luang Garden is a superb 10-hectare botanical garden , created at her initiative to offer Thais an experience similar to the European gardens she had admired during her stays abroad, and more particularly in Switzerland.
This project also aimed to create jobs and improve the living conditions of local communities, while combating deforestation and poppy cultivation , which was once widespread in the region.
The garden is renowned for its wide variety of plants and flowers, which change with the seasons. Paths allow you to stroll among the flowerbeds, decorated with a few artistic sculptures.
Previously, one could also go tree climbing at the Doi Tung Tree Top Walk , but this attraction has closed. Before entering the gardens, it is also possible to visit the Hall of Inspiration , an interactive exhibition dedicated to the royal family, in particular the Mahidol branch , the current ruling family.
Doi Tung Royal Villa
Doi Tung Royal VillaThe history of this villa is closely linked to the Princess Mother's efforts to improve the living conditions of the mountain populations of northern Thailand. From the 1960s, she became actively involved in the region and, during her visits, she noted the extent of deforestation due to slash-and-burn agriculture and poppy production.
Faced with this situation, she initiated projects to restore forests and offer economic alternatives to residents, promoting sustainable crops such as coffee, tea and flowers.
Inspired by these initiatives, the Thai government launched the Doi Tung Development Project in 1988 , a program aimed at reforesting the region, combating poverty, and improving access to education and healthcare. To allow the government to oversee these efforts more closely and avoid its lengthy annual trips to Switzerland, it was decided to build a residence on site.
The choice of Doi Tung was no accident : situated at an altitude of over 1,000 meters , it enjoys a milder climate year-round, and its mountainous landscape (though objectively different) reminded her of the area surrounding Villa Vadhana, where she stayed in Lausanne. She moved there even before the construction was finished, in November 1988, and resided there regularly until her death in 1995, continuing to oversee the region's development.
The villa's architecture, with its wooden chalet style , is inspired by Swiss chalets, while also incorporating Thai elements. The house has two floors :
- The upper floor includes his private quarters, those of his daughter Princess Galyani Vadhana, as well as a reception room and a kitchen.
- The lower floor is reserved for living areas and work spaces.
In front of the villa, a large flowery lawn offers an unobstructed view of the surrounding mountains. At the rear, a long balcony lined with planters recalls her love of flowers: it was here that she spent long hours gardening.
Inside, photos are prohibited , but there are several elements reflecting the passions of the Princess Mother, particularly for astronomy, with a ceiling depicting the solar system as it was on the date of her birth ( October 21, 1900 ).
Today, the Doi Tung Royal Villa is open to the public, offering a glimpse into the lifestyle and commitment of the Princess Mother to sustainable development and the preservation of natural resources.
How to get there
Being an off-the-beaten-path destination , there is no direct public transportation to travel Route 1149 in its entirety.
If you only wish to visit Doi Tung , it is possible to take a taxi from Chiang Rai or reach the entrance of the site by purple songthaew , which leave from Chiang Rai's central bus station at fixed times.
In any case, these options do not allow you to explore the villages and scenic viewpoints along the route.
The best solution, therefore, remains renting a vehicle :
- By scooter : I have already come across some on this road, but This is not an option I particularly recommend.. Mountain roads are sometimes steep, and driving in Thailand can be full of surprises. (I refer you to my article on the driving in thailand for more details.)
- By car : More comfortable, especially if you plan to make a lot of stops. A 4×4 is recommended, although not essential. Some portions are very stiff, and in the rainy season the road can become slippery.
Organized excursions
For those who prefer do not drive but want to fully explore this part of the province, tours from Chiang Rai offer tours of Doi Tung and surroundings. Some also include ethnic villages or in panoramic stops.
In summary, Doi Tung and its surroundings offer a walk that combines mountainous landscapes, local history and traditions. Apart from the gardens and the royal villa, it is a getaway that offers an experience a little off the beaten track.
To complete this visit, it is possible to take a detour to the Choui Fong tea plantations , located about 20 km from the gardens, nestled in the valley slightly off the main road leading to Chiang Rai.
From its plantations, you have a view of Doi Tung, clearly visible in the background, perfect for ending this day in the north of Chiang Rai province.
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