In the same way that I had already chosen a deliberately long stopover in Dubai to have time to visit, I repeated the experience this time by going through Oman.
I had a whole day ahead of me to get a feel for Muscat, the capital. No overnight stay during this first stop, but enough time to combine a walking tour in the Mutrah district with a wider tour using the Hop On Hop Off bus.
I returned to Muscat later, this time spending the night, but without doing any further sightseeing due to the late hours. In total, I spent a day and a night there, although this article focuses solely on my initial one-day visit to the city.
Before leaving the airport
Do I need a visa for a stopover in Oman?
If you plan to leave the airport to visit Muscat during your stopover, first check whether you can enter Omani territory without any special formalities or if a visa is required depending on your nationality.
On the Royal Oman Police website , you can consult the list of countries eligible for visa-free entry, provided you meet the following criteria:
- Your passport must be valid at least six months after your return date.
- For a tourist stay of less than 14 daysEntry without a visa is possible provided you have a confirmed hotel reservation, health insurance and a return ticket.
- Beyond 14 daysA visa is required and must be applied for online before departure.
In my case, I did not have a hotel during the stopover dedicated to sightseeing, so I had to apply for a transit visa.
→Oman has an official electronic visa portal for this purpose: evisa.rop.gov.om.
SIM card, currency exchange and taxi: the first things to do upon arrival
Before embarking on this day of exploration, I first took the time to get organized upon arriving at the airport.
I started by buying a local SIM card. Even for just one day, I preferred to have the "security" of internet access, if only to fully use Google Maps, even though it is of course possible to download offline maps in advance.
🌐 At the airport, it's easy to get a tourist SIM card; I was able to do it directly from a machine located near the baggage carousels. If you prefer in-person assistance, you'll of course find the usual counters, but for me, it seemed easy and straightforward.
Prices vary depending on the operator and the chosen plan (mine was Vodafone), but you can find basic offers around 5 OMR, with more generous plans at 10 OMR or more. For my day, the minimum was more than enough.
💵 I then exchanged what I thought I needed for the day, preferring to have cash on me rather than paying for everything by card. You never know if all merchants accept it, and it also avoids bank exchange rates, which are rarely in my favor.
🚖 Once these preparations were settled, I left the airport to take a taxi towards the area I had targeted, Mutrah.
My itinerary for visiting Muscat during a one-day stopover
In one day, my journey allowed me to combine:
- a walk on the Mutrah Corniche,
- the discovery of Mutrah Souq,
- the climb to Mutrah Fort,
- a wider tour in Hop On Hop Off, Along with:
I concentrated most of my visits around Mutrah, a former fishing village now fully integrated into Muscat, because that is where several of the most interesting places are located, especially those of a historical nature.
The rest of the city, which runs along the coast, does have some beaches, but mainly takes the form of a modern residential capital, with more limited interest for a day trip.
First exploration on foot in the Mutrah district
Taking a taxi from the airport, I discovered landscapes that were particularly new to me, with these rugged hills, almost entirely devoid of vegetation, and these clusters of light-colored cubic houses that seem to stretch out at their base.
I sensed fairly quickly that the day was going to be interesting, and I wasn't wrong.
Mutrah Corniche
Upon arriving there, I asked to get off a little before the souk, with the idea of walking first along this promenade which borders the bay and the port of Mutrah.
That day, the water and the sky were in perfect harmony, a beautiful blue. In the bay, one could see cruise ships, traditional wooden boats and, more surprisingly, a frigate flying the French flag.
The Mutrah Corniche is enhanced by a few shelters respecting the local architecture, as well as statues of dolphins, echoing the sea trips offered in the area to try to observe them.
On the other side of the road, a large mosque also catches the eye, with its beautifully decorated blue minaret. I continue on to the entrance of the souk. For the moment, I prefer to continue my stroll along the seafront, thinking that I will probably come back for a visit later.
So I continue along the promenade in full sun, passing the hill on which Mutrah's fort is perched, which I also plan to visit right after.
This part of the coastline is lined with large concrete blocks used to break the waves. I continue for several hundred meters until I arrive at a park (Riyam Park).
On the sea side, an open space with a shelter, a few benches and a bit of lawn borders a small hill. At its base are a long fountain and, to the side, a few trees providing welcome shade.
Google Maps indicates a viewpoint called Mutrah Hill View Point , supposed to allow you to gain some height to admire the port, but I didn't find an obvious access so I didn't insist.
From this area, one can still enjoy a beautiful view of the port, with the immense ships that were present, but also of the road which continues to wind along the coastline.
In the distance, an intermediate fort can also be seen, as well as an old watchtower overlooking the Mutrah coast, located on Google Maps under the name Muscat Marine Tower.
Another notable visual landmark is the Riyam Censer , perched above Riyam Park , between Mutrah and Old Muscat. It is a memorial in the shape of a giant incense burner, a nod to the importance of incense in Omani history and culture.
Mutrah Fort
Back at the foot of the fort, I looked for directions. And I came back to my previous comment: having Google Maps was very useful. At first glance, one might think that the entrance is directly from the promenade along the port, but in reality, no.
First, you need to take the first small street after the hill. On foot, you can then cut through an alley to reach the actual entrance. At first, I wasn't sure I was in the right place because I didn't see anything resembling a ticket office, and the whole thing looked like an administrative building, with its walled perimeter and barrier preventing cars from freely accessing the parking lot…
The ticket office itself didn't look very official at first glance: I entered a rather plain room, which looked more like a break room for the guards. But no matter, it was there, and I paid the 3 OMR to access the fort.
I then climb a series of 125 steps to reach what looks more like an old observation and surveillance post of the port than a defensive fort in the classical sense.
Built by the Portuguese in the 16th century, Mutrah Fort remains quite small and compact. Its main interest lies precisely in the view it offers of Mutrah and its port.
On one side, I see the houses clustered at the foot of the hills; on the other, a section of the ridge I had just walked along. At that moment, it wasn't even 10 a.m., and yet it was already unbearably hot since I left the airport around 8 a.m.
Needless to say, when I saw the café inside, simply called Fort Café , I immediately went in to enjoy a refreshing drink—in this case, an iced coffee—so I could get my caffeine fix while I was at it. Enjoying the air conditioning, I stayed for about half an hour, also taking the time to grab a little treat.
Refreshed, I resume the visit by taking the stairs leading to the different areas of the fort. Old cannons are visible here and there, and a terrace offers a few chairs sheltered by parasols, in addition to the café room, which remains quite small.
On the upper section, there's an old anti-aircraft gun on a platform in the ramparts, while at the far end of the fort stands the watchtower. There were a few visitors when I was there, but overall it was quiet. Once I'd finished exploring the site, I headed back towards the entrance to rejoin the ledge.
Mutrah Souq
Next stop: the souk. I arrived there less than 10 minutes after descending from the fort. The contrast in crowds was immediate: at the fort, it was almost deserted; here, there was a good concentration of tourists and locals going about their business.
Although the souk has an ancient historical origin, linked to Mutrah's role as a major trading port in Oman, it was, in its current version, largely rebuilt and modernized after a fire in the 2000s.
However, right from the entrance, one is greeted by a high wooden ceiling, supported by beams richly decorated with floral motifs. Its architecture is therefore not without interest. Nearby, shops offer several local specialties, including incense , textiles , and spices.
The atmosphere is friendly and, here, no one pressures you into going into their shop as you might expect in some touristy souks. I wander around until I come across a kind of crossroads, sheltered by a large circular roof.
Continuing my stroll, I take in the bustle, the colors, the smells. I pass the entrance to a small mosque tucked away in the maze of alleyways, then notice a stained-glass window on another ceiling structure. It's charming, and I linger there for a good half hour, also taking the time to do some shopping.
In the end, I couldn't resist buying a few souvenirs. It just goes to show, you don't need to be pushy. Nothing spectacular in itself, but the souk is still well worth a look, especially if you're already passing through Mutrah.
Hop On Hop Off in Muscat: a good idea for a stopover?
During a stopover, the Hop On Hop Off bus can be a practical solution to connect several sectors of Muscat without having to organize everything yourself.
Paradoxically, this isn't really the kind of transport I usually use. I always struggle a bit with the very touristy aspect of these open-top buses, which sometimes give the impression of flying over a city rather than really discovering it.
But after identifying what there was to see and looking at the distances between the different sites, it became clear that this was the simplest solution to make the most of my stopover.
By visiting their website , I looked at the route to identify potential stops where I could get off, although I also thought I'd just go with the flow. You can also simply stay on the bus for the entire loop, which takes about 1 hour and 45 minutes.
Big Bus route to Muscat
Important note: the Hop On Hop Off service, allowing passengers to get on and off at various stops, is only available on days when cruise ships are in port. On other days, the bus only runs the scenic loop, without intermediate stops, with two departures per day, at 10:30 am and 14:30 pm.
I was lucky; I was there on a cruise day, so I was able to enjoy it as planned. Big Bus Tours usually updates the information on this page to find out which days it's available.
To put it simply, I had booked my ticket in advance. So all I had to do was show it to the driver before boarding from the main departure point, at the souk, which I had just visited.
A first loop in Hop On Hop Off
So I set off from Mutrah, and of course I settled down upstairs to enjoy the view and be able to take photos without any glass obstructing my view.
The complete loop is nearly 60 km, so there's plenty to see in terms of scenery and passing interesting monuments. We initially head towards the center of Muscat, as if returning to the airport, a route I had taken in the opposite direction that very morning by taxi.
After almost an hour, we passed by a beach, Qurum Beach . I thought to myself that I might come back later to take some photos there, in addition to the ones I quickly took from the bus.
A few minutes later, we return to the main road to head back towards Old Muscat (located not far from Mutrah).
We pass by a mosque, giving me the opportunity to mention here that one of the main sites in the city that I did not visit is the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque , the latter not being on the route of the Big Bus and being closer to the international airport (about 12 km away nonetheless).
After a while, you follow a beautiful road along dry hills, then you arrive on a road offering an unobstructed view of the sea.
A few minutes later, we arrive in the Al Bustan beach area , near which there is a luxury hotel, a small residential area and several official buildings, including the Council of State, whose main facade can be clearly seen by going all the way around a large roundabout.
This roundabout, Al Bustan Palace Roundabout , is an attraction in itself as it is dominated by a replica of the Sohar , a traditional Omani dhow recalling the historical importance of navigation and maritime trade in the country.
Shortly after, we reached an important stop, which I'll discuss later: Marina Bandar Al Rowdha Viewpoint . I say "important" because, up to this point, the journey had been non-stop. However, upon arriving at this spot, the bus pulled up, the driver announcing two minutes before leaving, which gave us just enough time to take a few photos from the viewpoint overlooking a small marina below.
I even hesitated to stay there, which would have given me about thirty minutes before the next bus arrived. But at the time, I decided to get back on board, giving priority to the next stop: the royal palace.
Stop at the Royal Palace of Muscat
Just 10 minutes later, I arrived at a roundabout, shortly after entering Old Muscat. We were then somewhat at the heart of the apparatus of power: in addition to the long esplanade leading 300m further on in front of the royal palace, there are several government buildings and buildings linked to the royal family, but also the National Museum, on the other side of the road.
The palace, also known as Al Alam Palace , is the ceremonial palace of the Sultan of Oman . It is therefore used more for official receptions than as a residence.
When I arrive, I see a group of tourists huddled in front of the closed gate of the palace, as the interior is not open to the public. This is where I will see the most tourists, but it doesn't last long: they are mostly passengers from cruise ships, so generally, they are people in a hurry.
By the time I'd taken a few photos, sheltering from the sun along the covered walkway bordering the esplanade, most of the cruise passengers had already finished theirs. The square gradually emptied, people dispersing to the surrounding area, leaving me with a clear view in front of the gate.
This last opening only allows a glimpse of an alleyway devoid of guards, leading to another gate that is also closed. But it still allows one to observe the details of the facade, with its rather unique style, blending traditional influences and contemporary design.
In its current form, the palace dates from the 1970s. It is therefore not a historical building in itself, but its architecture clearly stands out, with its blue and gold arches.
Afterwards, I take a look at the gardens accessible from the esplanade. Besides a beautiful lawn, there are a few flowerbeds and scattered trees offering welcome shade.
Passing behind the arched walkway, I came across a small mosque, Masjid Al Zawawi Muscat . I didn't expect to find one so close to the palace, in such a modest form.
The fact is that there is a second mosque barely 100m before, Jami'aa AlHaaj Ali Bin Moosa , with a slightly more elaborate architecture, which I glimpsed on my way back to the roundabout, passing under the arched walkway.
Alternatively, from the esplanade, you can see the two old Portuguese forts surrounding the palace: Al-Jalali to the east and Al-Mirani to the west. Al-Mirani Fort is open to visitors and offers a panoramic view of the palace and the bay.
I was content to observe it from below, because the entrance fee was 11 OMR, I wanted to limit expenses and I was afraid I wouldn't have enough time to see other sectors.
Walking a little further, I find myself following a road squeezed between the bay and the small hill dominated by Fort Al-Mirani. This road leads to a naval base and also connects to the road on the other side via a tunnel.
From here, there is a beautiful view of the bay, with again, fortifications visible at each rocky end surrounding the bay which faces an island, Al Jazirah.
Back near the palace, still along the bay, you can see the back of Al Alam Palace and the Al-Jalali fort, stuck on its bit of rock.
Coffee break in the village of Sidab
For the next part, I decided to go back "backwards". While passing by bus a little earlier, I had seen the fishing port while crossing the village of Sidab, thinking that the area looked nice.
As I was passing by, I thought I could kill two birds with one stone: the heat was starting to get oppressive and I wanted to relax in a cool café. Perfect timing, I'd spotted the T-Café, just 900 meters from the roundabout where I was walking back after visiting the Palace.
Given the distance, it took me less than 15 minutes to reach the café with the pink facade. It couldn't have taken any longer, as the temperature was starting to rise considerably in the early afternoon.
The interior is simple but colorful, with restrooms that surprised me, but perfectly matched the all-pink facade! The coffee itself wasn't anything particularly remarkable, but I appreciated the sheltered break. I left after about half an hour, giving me time to think about what I could do next.
From Sidab to Marina Bandar Al Rowdha Viewpoint
Leaving the café, I quickly made my way to the small fishing port, which was deserted at this hour. I barely glimpsed a lone man working on his boat, a few meters from the shore. In the distance, I could see the coast guard vessels, moored on the other side of the port.
The streets of Sidab that I walk through are deserted… I take some photos of the houses with the hills in the background, and I also come across a facade with beautiful tapestries that are, I imagine, drying.
I've only gone a few hundred meters, but the heatwave is forcing me to revise my plans. My initial plan was to walk to the viewpoint overlooking the marina, which was about 2 km away. A journey I would normally make without difficulty, but now, I admit defeat in the sweltering heat.
So there I was, waiting by the side of the road, hoping a free taxi would pass by. Luckily, a car finally arrived after 10 minutes. The driver didn't speak English very well, and it wasn't easy to explain that it was just a short trip, 2 km away… But he managed.
Given the distance, I get away with spending about 2 OMR and I ask to be dropped off near the small public garden, Bandar Al Rodah Park , less than 300m from the viewpoint where I can catch the Big Bus.
I spotted a few people in the park, obviously sitting in the shade, including a family having a picnic. I then went up to the viewpoint and enjoyed the view of the marina below and the surrounding landscape for a longer time.
Between the park and the viewpoint, I only stayed in the area for about ten minutes. The timing was perfect: a bus, which ran every 30 minutes that day, arrived just then. I showed my ticket again and was able to board the shuttle to continue my day's journey.
Last bus journey via Qurum before returning to the airport
After only a few minutes, I pass by the esplanade of the royal palace again, then the bus turns along the small road at the foot of the Al-Mirani fort, where I had walked an hour earlier.
After that, we pass under the Muscat Gate Museum , which is aptly named as it is housed in a monumental gate that appears ancient, but whose current structure turns out to be a modern reconstruction inspired by the old gates of Muscat.
As we approach the Mutrah Corniche, the route takes us close to Al-Ward Beach, which I can easily spot thanks to the elevated position offered by the upper-level seats. Just a little further on, we pass the rocky outcrop on which stands the old Portuguese watchtower I mentioned earlier, the Old Watch Tower , which I glimpsed during my morning walk along the corniche.
The Big Bus then returns to its starting point, the Mutrah souk. Even if I get off at this stop, I'm not quite finished with this mode of transport yet.
By then it was already past 15 p.m., so I was starting to get hungry and wanted to grab a bite to eat before heading out again. Waiting for the next bus gave me about 30 minutes.
The paradox is that, as I write these lines, I can't remember what I ate, or even if I ate at all. I must admit, I'm not really the type to take pictures of what I eat… I'm not a food blogger!
My plan for the next leg of my journey was to get back on the bus, as my ticket was still valid all day, and its route was taking me closer to the airport. By heading back down towards Qurum beach, which I'd seen earlier, I'd save a good 10 kilometers, thus reducing the cost of the taxi I'd need to take me back to the airport.
This last part of the bus journey allowed me to see other facilities that I had not noticed on the first pass (depending on which side you sit on), such as the Qurum Natural Park Waterfalls , or a brief glimpse of the Qurum mangroves, which are part of a nature reserve.
I also took some more photos of Qurum beach, where there were quite a few families having picnics or relaxing in the shade of the palm trees lining the sand.
Having arrived at the Qurum stop, I finally got off. All I had to do was find a taxi to get back to the airport at a leisurely pace. I had plenty of time since it was 16:15 pm and my flight wasn't until 22 pm. But the main reason I was returning so "early" was that the sun sets in Oman around 17:30 pm (practically all year round).
But once night fell, I didn't really see the point in staying in the city anymore. Muscat doesn't have that kind of city center filled with skyscrapers and neon lights that creates a truly vibrant and colorful nighttime atmosphere perfect for photography. Basically, in my mind, once the sun went down, it was "move along, there's not much left to see."
After quickly finding a taxi, I was back at Muscat International Airport (its English name) less than 30 minutes later, arriving shortly before 17 p.m.
The rest of my day passed quietly in the international zone. After going through immigration and security again, all I had to do was wait for my flight to Bangkok and return home after several months spent working in France.
What can we take away from this day's stopover in Muscat?
A single day obviously isn't enough to explore Muscat in depth, especially given the distances between the different parts of the city. But this stopover still allowed me to get a pretty good feel for it, including the Mutrah Corniche, its souk, a few viewpoints along the coast, and a visit to Old Muscat.
Ultimately, what I enjoyed most was the city's unique landscape, nestled between the sea and rocky hills, as well as its peaceful atmosphere. During a long layover, the experience was definitely worthwhile rather than being stuck at the airport, and while Oman already appealed to me, this glimpse reinforced my desire to visit more thoroughly someday.
