Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, whose name translates to "auspicious victory monastery," was founded as early as 1357 by Ayutthaya's first ruler, King U-Thong. Located outside the capital's walls, it housed a group of monks who had recently learned in Sri Lanka and became the seat of the patriarch (the supreme monk in Thailand). Originally known as Wat Pa Kaeo, the temple did not take its current name of Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon until the 16th century.

History of Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

It is assumed that the temple was built on a site previously occupied by a religious building, probably a Khmer complex dating from the Dvaravati period (which extends from the 6th century ^e at XI ^e), as evidenced by the presence of a moat surrounding it, symbolizing the celestial ocean surrounding the sacred mountain, Mount Meru. However, if nothing remains from this earlier period, The temple in its "modern" form was founded in 1357 (some sources mention the date of 1363) by the first ruler of the new kingdom of Ayutthaya, King U-Thong (or Ramathibodi I from his dynastic name, who reigned from 1350 to 1369).

The origin of its construction follows the death of two princes, Chao Kaeo et Chao Thai (two sons of one of Ramathibodi I's wives), who died of cholera. The king then ordered that the bodies of the two princes be exhumed and that a sacred monument (the famous chedi, or stupa in the broad sense) as well as a preaching hall (viharn) be established on the cremation site.

A map by Engelbert Kaempfer published in the early 17th century, showing Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon.

This complex soon after hosted a group of monks newly ordained by "Somedet Phra Wannarat", the head of the monks at the time (the patriarch). The latter were returning from the island of Ceylon (present-day Sri Lanka) where they had studied Buddhist scriptures and perfected their knowledge of meditation. It was then known as Wat Pa Kaeo (also spelled Wat Pakew), which can be translated as crystal forest temple.

Two centuries later, in 1548. , the temple was used as a meeting place to set up a plot to overthrow King Worawongsathirat, considered a usurper and assassinated with his wife Si Sudachan, after only 42 days of reign. This upheaval saw the rise to power of Prince Thianracha, crowned under the title of Maha Chakkraphat (r.1548-1569) and considered legitimate because he came from the lineage of the Suphannaphum dynasty, which had then reigned for 150 years over the kingdom.

Although surprisingly not mentioned in the royal chronicles, it is assumed that the expansion of the temple followed the victory over the Burmese army by King Naresuan in 1592.

Known as the Battle of Nong Sarai, this historic episode of first instance, ended with the death of the Burmese crown prince by the hands of King Naresuan himself, during an epic battle seeing each sovereign face to face on their war elephant. A scene that can be found in many paintings throughout the kingdom and on one of the interior walls of the ubosot at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon.

The interior of the ubosot with the painting on the right.

Le King Naresuan ordered the restoration of the temple and the main chedi was enlarged during these renovations, becoming the Phra Chedi Chaiya Mongkhon, from which the new name of the temple derives. It was also during this period that the room housing a reclining Buddha was added, the latter being positioned on a north-south axis with the face turned towards the East.

Another two hundred years later and the temple was once again embroiled in the war against the Burmese. The Phraya of Tak (who would later become the new king under the name of Taksin, founding his capital at Thonburi, preceding the founding of Bangkok) was promoted by
le King Ekathat commander of a fleet of ships, in order to counter the advance of the Burmese army on the capital.

It was in this very monastery that he formed his army to confront the Burmese. at the end of 1766. The following year marks the fateful year with the fall of the city, in 1767 In fact, the temple was ransacked and the temple abandoned for almost two centuries.

The monastery was officially reestablished and recognized in 1957, making it one of the few ancient temples in Ayutthaya still active today. It was at this time that the concrete statues surrounding the cloister were added. The reclining Buddha statue was remade in 1965. , because the original had been too damaged by looters.

in 1979. , the temple abbot is coordinating, with the Thai Fine Arts Department, the reconstruction of the ubosot, while preserving the original structure which remains clearly visible.

Architecture of Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

The basic structure of the temple holds no surprises since we find the alignment of the buildings in the east-west axis, with the viharn to the west, the central chedi and the ubosot to the east. Around the chedi was originally a covered cloister while the surroundings are dotted with several chedis of various sizes.

As the temple is still active, there are also kutis, dwellings for monks, consisting of a small wooden structure on stilts, similar to a small house. Finally, in the north-east corner are the remains of the viharn that housed the reclining Buddha.

1- The big chedi (Phra Chedi Chai Mongkhon)

With its 60 m height, the large chedi of Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon was certainly one of the landmarks of Ayutthaya, largely protruding and visible to all for those arriving from the East. It is one of the rare temples with Wat Phu Khao Thong to take up the architectural codes of Burmese temples.

The chedi is divided into three parts, with first a square base of 32 m on each side, surmounted by a bell-shaped dome, typical of the stupas of the Ayutthaya era, which itself rests on an orthogonal structure, placed on the terrace of the square base. On each corner of this platform, located 15 m high, there are also smaller chedis. There is also a privileged view of this part of the city, because the temple is not surrounded by buildings.

Stairs lead inside the chedi and face east, with a branch of stairs leading to the terrace just before the dome entrance. In the chamber beneath the dome are several Buddha statues, while in the centre is a well revealing the original location of the relics (the large chedi having been built over the original).

The tradition is to throw a coin into the bottom of the well, aiming for the center of the stone square, the true sacred heart of the temple, and if successful, it is interpreted as a sign of future luck or the fulfillment of a wish made just before throwing the coin.

2- The gallery

A rectangular gallery encircles the main chedi. This cloister was evidently covered by a roof in the past, of which only the foundations of the pillars remain today, attesting to this. Along the inner wall of the gallery are rows of seated Buddhas, which remain to this day in their raw state, without gilding or painting.

These Buddha statues were carved when the temple was rehabilitated in 1957 to replace the original ones, which had become too damaged over time. Under their base, you can see plaques, indicating that several of them contain the ashes of the deceased.

A small tent next to the left mondop allows visitors to make a donation to hang a sheet (symbolizing the monks' robes) around one of the statues, a gesture that is usually accompanied by a prayer.

3- The mondops

Two mondops stand at the front on either side of the staircase climbing up into the chedi. The pyramidal structures that once covered the statues inside have collapsed, leaving the last ones exposed today, roofless. The statues have been renovated and it is also common to see people paying to have a cloth placed over the statue and offering prayers at its foot.

4- The main viharn

Located to the west of the chedi are the remains of the sermon hall, where the monks met to preach. Little remains of it except the foundations, with rows of hedges in the middle that were placed there to "beautify" the ruin. At the back are several statues, disciples facing a standing representation of Buddha, all of which are obviously recent reconstructions.

5- The ubosot

The ordination hall or ubosot is located to the east and therefore in front of the large chedi. The hall originally measured 16 m by 44 m. It is now covered by a frame and modern walls, built on top of it in a more modest size, in order to preserve the state of the original structure intact. The statue found inside the ubosot, called "Phra Phuttha Chaiya Mongkhon" is one of the most sacred Buddhas in Ayutthaya, and the temple is therefore very frequented by Thais, who pray on the outside part of the ordination hall (which once corresponded to the entrance to the building).

The iron bars protruding from both sides of this building indicate that the final project was never completed. I don't think it was a lack of budget here, but it is clear that ornaments were planned but not placed.

The ubosot on the left with the large chedi in the background.

6- The viharn with the reclining Buddha

Located in the north-eastern corner of the temple, just next to the parking lot and the main entrance to the complex, you will see the ruins of the viharn which contains a large reclining Buddha statue. This complex, built during the reign of King Naresuan, is on a north-south axis, with the Buddha facing the rising sun.

The roof has disappeared, but the statue is still surrounded by portions of walls. The Buddha is a reconstruction with a small unusual touch, because in this position he is usually depicted with his eyes closed while here they are wide open.