Phrae, pronounced "preh," is a small town in northern Thailand, easily considered as a stop on the way to Chiang Rai. Little known to foreign tourists, it nevertheless deserves a visit.
Its old town, wooden houses, a few interesting temples, and several nearby attractions make it a discreet but far from uninteresting destination. This overview will give you an idea of what you can see there if you're looking to venture off the beaten path.
The charm of the old town
This might not be immediately obvious to you, unless you already know a little about Thailand. Phrae, and this is undeniable in my opinion, exudes a certain aura, a charm and a tranquility, more like a village than a city (albeit a small one, with fewer than 20,000 inhabitants).
A century ago, logging (of teak wood) was Phrae's economic mainstay. Today, its legacy still has a strong presence in the city's culture and architecture.
Phrae's "Gingerbread" Style
As I detail below, several important houses are not only still standing, but also open to visitors. Admittedly, we're talking about a relatively recent history, at most a hundred years old, but let's not forget how sadly these wooden buildings are becoming increasingly rare in Thailand.
And apart from in the Lampang old town (located 100km away), I have rarely found this atmosphere. In total, there are no less than 100 teak houses in the city, whose construction dates from 1890 to 1920.
Some are in a particular style called "gingerbread", a colonial invention of the late 19th century that is said to have originated in the mansions built by the French in Haiti. Its elaborate, flamboyant features and use of bright colors are said to be similar to the model houses once made by children out of gingerbread dough (yes, just like in the fairy tale Hansel and Gretel).
Apart from the wooden houses, we also find the old wall, surrounding the old town and accompanied by a canal. Although it may not seem like much, this old wall, now quite covered in brushwood, is still almost 1200 years old!
A good way to explore the old town is to rent a bike for the day (available at Be Bike).
Ban Chao Nan Chaiwong
We start with the quickest one, Ban Chao Nan Chaiwong. There's not much information about this magnificent 2-story house except that it dates back to 1907. But we notice its careful architecture, with its numerous wooden sculptures, mainly floral motifs, which adorn the balcony and the underside of the roof.
The house is still inhabited, so there are no opening hours or entrance fee since the gate will be closed by default. However, it is possible to arrange a visit with the owner if they happen to be in the area. Otherwise, you can always stop by and have a look.
Wichai Ratcha residence
The former home of Phra Wichai Racha, treasurer and chief of Phrae province, this teakwood mansion is a jewel in peril. Dating back to 1880, it has been the scene of a turbulent history.
First in 1902, during the period of the so-called Ngiao rebellion, an ethnic group originating from the Shan state (in what is now Burma, but under British control at the time).
Indeed, in order to combat the oppressive grip of foreign powers (the British on one side, the French on the other, having seized from Siam the vassal states of what is now Laos, Cambodia, part of Burma, and even Malaysia), Bangkok imposed higher taxes on local leaders and forced them to cede much of their power to officials in the capital. This incited local authorities against Bangkok, as it was restrictive for their affairs.
Baan Wichai Racha then served as a hiding place for some officials wanted by the rebels. Later, during World War II, the house was used again, this time as an arms cache and meeting place for the Free Thai Movement. It was Wichai Racha's own son, who became a member of parliament (after the fall of the absolute monarchy in 1932), who led this movement in Phrae, an equivalent of the French Resistance, fighting here against the Japanese invaders (for more on the Free Thai Movement, there is a museum dedicated to Phrae).
Left to decay for a time, it wasn't until 1992 that a Vietnam War veteran, Veera Star, fell in love with the ruin and decided to preserve it at all costs. With his savings, he bought the house and began renovating it. Unfortunately, he was caught off guard by the cost of such a massive undertaking and spent all his resources on it, from the houses he had accumulated throughout his life to the land he owned.
Today, the bank has repossessed it with a 10 million baht mortgage. Mr. Verra, never giving up, has approached various state agencies such as the Ministry of Finance, the Department of Fine Arts, and others. While he welcomes these efforts to preserve this heritage, since the mid-2000s he has received only empty promises and now lives in fear that the house will be sold to someone unaware of its historical significance.
It's a long presentation, but for someone like me who's curious about history in general, I think it's important to explain what this building represents. It's also a way to highlight the recurring problem in Thailand regarding the preservation of old buildings like this one.
Khum Vongburi Museum
Khum Vongburi Museum is a magnificent two-storey teak mansion built in the late 19th/early 20th century and now open to the public as a museum. It was the home of Luang Phongphibun and his wife Chao Nantha. Phongphibun was a nobleman who made his fortune in the teak timber trade when his wife was a member of the Phrae royal family.
This beautifully preserved residence, set within well-maintained gardens, is a classic example of Northern Thai style at the turn of the century. The architecture is not classically Thai, but shows European influences (particularly French, British, and Dutch, due to the companies heavily involved in teak logging in Northern Thailand during this period).
The two-story, tiled roof, high ceilings, and large balcony are somewhat reminiscent of colonial buildings, particularly those found in Burma, but the intricate wood carving on the gables and balustrades clearly distinguishes it from the traditional Lanna style. It is, in fact, a Thai version of the "gingerbread" style mentioned in the introduction.
If I give you examples of temples to see below, I'll mention this one right here since it's nearby. You can also take a look at the neighboring temple, Wat Phong Sunan.
You will then be struck by its giant statue of a tortoise topped with a small Buddha; next to it is a white structure topped with multiple chedis with golden parasols, typical of the Burmese style. In the courtyard, you will also see a golden statue of a reclining Buddha.
Khum Chao Luang
Khum Chao Luang is the former residence of Prince Piriyatheppawong, the last ruler of Phrae. Indeed, the city of Phrae, which traces its origins back to the ancient Mon Kingdom of Haripunchai (now Lamphun), and despite being at various times dependent on the more powerful kingdoms of Phayao, Nan and Lanna (Chiang Mai), has always maintained its own royal family lineage and, for some periods, a semblance of independence.
Built in 1892 during the reign of Rama V, the house embodies the perfect blend of European and Thai styles, and is impeccably preserved with delicate carvings on the balconies, verandas and roof gables inspired by traditional Thai sculpture. Unusually, entry is free for all visitors.
Inside are exhibited period objects, paintings and the rooms seem frozen in time. The last Lord having fled the palace during the Ngiao rebellion in 1902 (to join Luang Prabang, then under French domination). A special fact, there is even a small local prison in the basement.
It was in this building that King Bhumibol (Rama IX) and his wife Queen Sirikit stayed during an official visit to Phrae in 1958.
Some interesting temples around Phrae
Like anywhere in Thailand, and if you're not yet satiated with temples, Phrae has its share of Wat (temples), worth at least a look.
Wat Chom Sawan
For me, my favorite in Phrae. Already because this one, in the logic of what developed the city, is a teak temple built on several levels between 1910 and 1912. Wat Chom Sawan is of Burmese architectural style. And for good reason, the temple is the work of a rich merchant from the Shan state, in Myanmar.
The temple was built by Shan labourers, many of whom migrated to the region as loggers on the timber plantations (under the supervision of British merchants). It is notable for the decorative use of tin stenciling on the ceilings and interior columns.
Wat Chom Sawan is often quiet, sometimes inside, a small lady weaves with a wooden machine. She makes rolls of orange fabric, used either for the monks' robes or to surround the brick chedi located on the side in front of the temple. The decoration is typical of the north and personally, I was quite captivated by its high ceiling richly decorated with red and gold ornaments.
Also worth noting is that there is a small amulet market between the temple and the road.
Wat Phra Non and the Saturday Night Market
It is not so much the temple itself that is worth the detour, even if it is a beautiful representative of the architecture and the finesse of the Lanna style. Literally, the name means "temple of the reclining Buddha" because, you guessed it, it houses a 9m statue in this position.
But the reason I mention it here is to talk about its market, which is associated with the temple. This night market, held only on Saturday evenings, is locally called "Kad Phra Non," a reference to the temple located along the street where the event takes place. It's a chance to soak up a local atmosphere off the beaten path.
Wat Phra That Cho Hae
Probably the most important temple from a religious point of view in the region, and also a temple of royal status, Wat Phra That Cho Hae is located to the east on a hill outside the city. Its main chedi, 33 m high, is said to date back to 1337, although its current form is the result of successive expansions and renovations.
It is said to contain a hair of the Buddha as well as a piece of elbow bone. It was Phaya Lithai, king of Sukhothai who controlled the region at the time, who ordered the construction of the building to enshrine the sacred relic.
The chedi is in the Chiang Saen style, with a square base and an overall octagonal shape. Next to it is the Viharn, the main building in the shape of a cross, surrounded by a cloister beneath which are the traditional Buddha statues.
The main Buddha image sits enthroned in the building, appearing quite small compared to the high ceilings of the place, which is very colourful.
Wat Phra That Suthon Mongkhon Khiri
Wat Phra That Suthon Mongkhon Khiri is of recent construction, dating back to 1977. It is intended as a memorial to the memory of soldiers who died in combat (however, which soldiers from which battle, I don't know more).
This temple is located outside the city, closer to the town of Den Chai (where the Bangkok – Chiang Mai train passes), along the main road 101 connecting Phrae to Lampang.
We immediately notice the large statue of a reclining Buddha in the outer courtyard. Burmese in style, it appears very effeminate for some reason I don't know.
The temple itself is associated with a kind of small museum, located in a wooden house on stilts just at the entrance to the cloister surrounding the Ubosot. Works of art, antiques, period photographs and weapons are displayed there.
Wat Phra That Suthon Mongkhon Khiri skillfully blends Burmese styles, such as its large Buddha and its main chedi with multiple peaks, with the Lanna style, specific to northern Thailand.
Phae Mueang Phi (geological site)
Also spelled Pae Muang Pee as in the name of the reserve where this site is located (Pae Muang Pee Forest Park, which covers an area of 0,27km²), is an area comprising rock outcrops formed by erosion over the millennia.
This creates columns and mushroom-shaped rock formations, whereas several millennia ago, the Yom River, which today flows through the city of Phrae, passed through this mountain range of Phi Pan Nam.
Muaeng Phi can be translated locally as "the ghost town", due to the somewhat "otherworldly" appearance of these structures that have survived the centuries.
Located outside the city, 10 km from the center, it's the area's most famous attraction. The area is easily explored on foot and is quite compact. While not exceptional, it's photogenic and has a rather unique look, if only because of the dominant yellowish hue.
The good news is that it's free so why not. To get there, hire a songthaew (2-row pickup) from Phrae, it should cost you 400 Baht for this outing.
Ban Thung Hong: the indigo village
As such, nothing special to visit, but you will surely pass by if you are going to the Mueang Phi rock formations from the center of Phrae. Ban Thung Hong is a village specializing in the manufacture of clothing made from Mo Ham, a local cotton fabric dyed indigo blue.
Located 4 km from the center along Route 101, you'll eventually see a row of shops showcasing their wares, a mix of traditional and modern clothing. You can even try dyeing your own handkerchief, t-shirt, or other garment by folding the fabric in a specific way; the resulting patterns will appear when unfolded. Here's the address: Auntie Ngiem Indigo Dyeing Learning Center.
If you can't try it yourself, you can take a look at their shop and see their artisanal production (almost too much so, because when you see where the waste products go, which are, I must point out, toxic... but hey, that's also Thailand).
National parks and other natural areas in Phrae
The region is obviously not lacking in national parks and other places to relax. The most important being the Wiang Kosai National Park. Located off Route 11, the main road to Lampang, it is a park visited for its waterfalls and dense forest covering the mountain which peaks at over 1200m.
On weekends and summer days (March/April), many Thais come to cool off and splash around at the main waterfall, Namtok Mae Kaeng Luang and its 7 levels.
And speaking of waterfalls, if you love nature, there is another one worth a look, Huai Rong WaterfallLocated in the north of the province, about fifty kilometers from the center, this secluded waterfall (little known to the general public) lies 4 km off the main road 101 that leads up to Nan. Surrounded by forest, the waterfall's appearance is reminiscent of the so-called "sticky" waterfall of Bua Thong (north of Chiang Mai), as it is easy to climb on foot, or at least understand that it's not slippery due to the nature of the limestone.
Finally, another national park, more secondary but also special, the Doi Pha Klong National Park, located along Route 1023, 20 km west of the provincial capital. The latter is special because its attraction is linked to these rock formations, but no "yellow mushrooms"
Pha Nang Khoi Cave
A nice bonus on this list: a cave. I stumbled upon it quite by chance while wandering around the area before heading to Chiang Rai. And what a pleasant surprise! Besides the fact that it was free (at least, I didn't see anything suggesting an entrance fee), the whole place is well-maintained with a staircase leading up to the cave, located on the side of a karst cliff.
The cave itself is long and narrow, and you walk through it until you emerge on the other side. The route is initially marked with explanatory panels, but these are not only damaged but only in Thai. This doesn't detract from the enjoyment of the colorful lighting, which beautifully highlights the shapes, columns, stalactites, and other features that can be seen during the walk through it.
At the far end of the cave, as is often the case in Thai caves, is a prayer area. There you'll find its ever-present Buddha statue in the lotus position, along with places to set candles and incense. To the side, a chasm plunges into the ground; I can only imagine the sounds it makes during the rainy season!
Next to the statue is a staircase leading to the back exit. A road passes through here, as there are fields in this area; it was via this road that I decided to return to the parking lot to explore the area.
It's a fairly quick walk (about an hour), pleasant and not many people on the day of my little exploration.
How to get to Phrae
Since I won't go into too much detail here, I'll mention the three main destinations you're likely to arrive from outside Bangkok. For more information, I plan to create a dedicated page on how to get to and from Phrae (I'll post the link once that page is live, and I'll do this for all the important destinations mentioned on the site—yes, yes, there's a lot of work to do!).
Overall, note that Phrae has an airport, served daily by the local company Nok Air. If you are planning to come by train, be aware that there is no train station in Phrae itself, but the northern line connecting Bangkok to Chiang Mai passes through Den Chai, a town located 25 km south of the city.
From Sukhothai
If you have just visited the ruins of the Sukhothai Historical Park, you will logically have to go back through Phitsanulok, where all the transport in the region is concentrated.
Then you have the choice of taking the train to Den Chai and then Songthaew to Phrae city centre. You will also have the choice of buses and minivans that connect Phitsanulok to Phrae in less than 3 hours for 113 Baht.
From Chiang Rai
Buses also pass through Phayao from Chiang Rai for 147 Baht, normally taking less than 4 hours.
From Chiang Mai
To reach Phrae from the ancient capital of the Lanna kingdom, you will have regular departures, notably via the Greenbus company. Buses also go via Lampang, the journey should cost 174 Baht and take about 3 hours.
Where to sleep in Phrae
Before giving you the search tool, I present to you the hotels tested in the city and near Phrae.
Gingerbread House Gallery
Note 9.0 / 10
From 25€ / night
The first hotel tested in the city itself is named after the particular style of wooden houses presented in this article, Gingerbread. And if it doesn't have the look, the Gingerbread House Gallery is still housed in a superb renovated and nicely decorated wooden house.
As a bonus, you will be treated to excellent organic food and a real café on the ground floor, the bedrooms being upstairs.
Baan I Inspire
Note 8.8 / 10
From 27€ / night
Another hotel tested, in a modern style, the Baan I Inspire. One of the criteria being that I needed parking (which the Gingerbread doesn't have where I have to stick against the building right on the street).
The hotel is a bit out of the way so it's better to have a car (even to go eat). Otherwise for this price, it's pretty good, personally I had a room that was just huge! Breakfast ok but good overall value for money.
Hug Inn Hotel
Note 8.9 / 10
From 25€ / night
The latest hotel tested to date is the Hug Inn Hotel. This one contrasts quite a bit with the provincial prison opposite it. Run by a young team, the hotel is modern. It is located not far from a few restaurants and an area with street vendors.
The breakfast is great and is taken in the small café attached to the hotel. It is perhaps the best in terms of location, and as a little bonus, it has parking.
Samnaree Garden House
Note 8.0 / 10
From 23€ / night
Located near Den Chai (therefore outside the town of Phrae), the Samnaree Garden House is an option for those who would like a more "local" hotel. As the name suggests, this one is in the middle of a garden, owned by the family that runs the place.
It's quite simple, but still comfortable and just what you need for a night in the countryside. It's a hotel that can serve as a stopover for the night without having to go all the way back up to Phrae itself.
Book a hotel in Phrae
If you don't find what you're looking for among the suggestions above, feel free to explore the various options in Phrae using the search tool. Please note that I receive a commission on every hotel booking made through this site. This commission won't affect the price for you, but it helps me keep this blog running. Thank you in advance, and above all, good research !
My opinion on Phrae
Just like the neighboring provinces, namely Phayao (which I myself must explore in order to be able to talk about it later), and Nan, Phrae is a small province in northern Thailand largely ignored by foreign visitors, although becoming increasingly popular among local tourists who pass through Phrae to reach Nan or Chiang Rai.
The provincial capital has a mostly recent but not uninteresting history. It is a relaxed and friendly city (as is often the case in the north), with its charming old town and a large collection of Wats (temples), surrounded by picturesque landscapes, valleys filled with rice fields (in the right season) and hills covered with forests, in short, it can really be worth a visit.
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