Amphawa is a floating market located in the small province of Samut Songkhram, some 90 km from the center of Bangkok. Considered the second most popular floating market near Bangkok, don't expect to see many boats, it's not as "busy" as in Damnoen Saduak. Its charm comes from elsewhere and Amphawa is often considered “more authentic.”
Indeed, along the canal are lined wooden houses typical of Thai architecture, most of them centuries old, giving a feeling of a Thailand of yesteryear. If I have already spoken to you from Amphawa on this blog, it remained a more “personal” and less informative article than I tend to deliver to you now.
Having visited the place many times since, I wanted to provide a recent and comprehensive overview of What you need to know about the Amphawa floating market.
A short history of Amphawa
This small village was already very lively in the middle of the 17th century since a market was already taking place there. Amphawa was then a small community prospering in agriculture and trade. Its location on the banks of the important Mae Klong River, leading to the Gulf of Thailand, is obviously not unrelated to this.
Later, a king of the current dynasty, Rama II, was even born there in 1766, his mother being a native of Amphawa. But its real popularity would begin much later. Amphawa, like all floating markets, would undergo a slow erosion in terms of attendance. Thais abandoned the floating aspect, perceived as "impractical", to go to more down-to-earth markets.
Ambiance in Amphawa
It is, among other things, thanks to the revitalization of the community around the Damnoen Saduak floating market, brought up to date to promote tourism, that floating markets will experience a second wind.
But in Amphawa, it's more than just a "floating" market; it's a collection of floating restaurants. The aim was never to recreate the frenetic activity of countless boats selling everything and anything, as has become the case in Damnoen Saduak. In Amphawa, people take their time, and everything revolves, like in true Thai fashion, around food. Emphasis is also placed on the traditional aspect of the place, with shops selling locally grown produce, a few handicrafts, and a friendly, relaxed atmosphere.
Along the quays, boats offer visitors fresh seafood from the nearby sea. From clams to langoustines, you can admire your dish being prepared on-site on one of the specially equipped boats. The largest gathering point is around the main pedestrian bridge, which connects the two sides of the canal and the two sections of the market.
You can eat right there, sitting on the quayside, admiring the constant stream of boats offering rides along the canal and the Mae Klong River (see below). I've heard people say they were "disappointed" with Amphawa because, and I quote, "there aren't many boats."
People (tourists) tend to want to see a "real" floating market, so they want to see lots of boats and therefore head towards Damnoen Saduak (also because it's the only one open on weekdays). As a result, Amphawa is mostly frequented by Thais, who unwind here on the weekend, and it's not so bad that way.
Its popularity remains constant and you might even have some difficulty moving along the quays around 19 p.m., when the market reaches its peak in attendance.
After an increase in Chinese tourists, who were neglecting Damnoen Saduak (or combining the visit, as it is only 13 km away) to also enjoy the delights of Amphawa, it has returned to calmer levels in recent years, making the site still pleasant to visit.
So far, even though Amphawa is evolving, shops are being renovated, more "modern" extensions are being added, the overall atmosphere remains resolutely "Thai".
Sitting on a terrace by the canal, listening to live music, enjoying a good local dish with a good beer, is always something enjoyable.
What to do in and around Amphawa
The main attraction is of course the market itself, so Amphawa is mainly visited on weekends for that. But even during the week, the town has a certain charm. A few shops open along the canal and boat trips are still possible.
Several distinct zones can be identified. The main one is located on either side of the canal. As you walk through the walkways, you'll encounter all sorts of food and smells emanating from the... various restaurants lined up along.
The local specialty is steamed mackerel. You will also have shops selling crafts, sometimes local, sometimes more general in the souvenir genre.
If you are not hungry for a hot meal, you will also find lovely cafes, desserts, ice creams and a place to sit by the water to admire the constant coming and going of boats navigating the canal.
In total, 3 small pedestrian bridges allow you to cross to either side of the canal, so it is possible to make a loop without having to retrace your steps.
The other areas are the shops and street food stalls aligned on either side of the canal, perpendicular to it, from the parking lot of Wat Amphawan Chetiyaram to the quays of the Mae Klong river on the other side (towards the police station).
Finally, as is typical in Thailand, at the end of the eastern path (the one opposite the temple, Wat Amphawan Chetiyaram, leading towards the river) a massage parlor, located in an old wooden building on the water's edge.
Boat trip and fireflies
Besides eating and shopping for souvenirs or other items, a popular activity in Amphawa is taking one of the many boats (long tail) offering rides around the market.
You won't be able to miss them, as some will shout to attract customers "Long Tail Boat! Fifty Bahts!", pointing at their sign to show you the highlights of the tours.
During the day, there are 2 different tours:
- The tour of the 5 temples
- The loop around Amphawa
In both cases, the fare will be 50฿ per person, if you are OK with waiting. The trick in this case is that you have to wait for the boat to fill up before you can leave. The other option is to rent the whole boat directly if you have the budget and don't want/can't wait. In this case, expect to pay around 500-600 Baht per boat (depending on the size).
The tour of the 5 temples
As its name explicitly indicates, this tour involves visiting 5 different temples located along the Mae Klong River, with a 15-minute stop at each one. Generally, these 5 temples are as follows:
- Wat Pummarin Kudeethong
- Wat Thong Khung
- Wat Kasemsoranaram (also called Wat Bangchak)
- Wat Bang Khae Yai
- What Bang Kung
It can be interesting to observe Thais paying respect to Buddha at each temple, making a donation followed by a prayer with the typical kit, which includes a candle, incense and flowers (and usually, a gold leaf to stick on one of the statuettes).
However, this tour can become a bit repetitive, and while there are some interesting temples along the way (and others in the region as well), it might be more worthwhile to visit them by land. Among these, the most famous is Wat Bang Kung.
Allow around 1h30 to 2h in total for this tour.
Wat Bang Kung, the plant temple
Its history dates back more than 200 years. During the conflict between the Ayutthaya Kingdom and its Burmese neighbor, the Wat Bang Kung then served as a military campThe goal? To train the local villagers in the art of Muay Thai to counter the Burmese joining the Siamese army, which was struggling after the invasion of their capital in 1767.
You will understand why there are statues of people practicing Muay Thai there. It has become a commemorative place. Today, the result is the ruins of a small, atypical ubosot (prayer place). Also called Bot Pork Pho, this building is today covered by several trees with intertwining roots. There are 4 species including a bodhi tree and a banyan tree.
These trees have enveloped the building, giving the impression at first glance, from a distance, of seeing only a clump of greenery. It is a peaceful site during the week, with most people visiting in combination with the Amphaw floating market; it is bustling with activity on weekends.
Inside, you can see a Buddha statue enthroned at the end of the room. This statue, called Luang Phot Bot Noi, is covered in gold leaf, which is applied daily by devotees who come to honor the site.
Inside the room, besides the visible roots embedded in the brick, one can still distinguish the old murals, depicting the story of Buddha.
Wat Phummarin Kudi Thong
This is the other most famous temple. An unusual story lies behind the superb teakwood residence located within this old temple. Originally, it was located in another temple, Wat Bang Li.
It is said that a man from a prominent family was told by the abbot that his daughter would become queen. The wealthy man then promised to build a Kudi Thong (a monks' residence made of precious golden teak), if the abbot's prediction were to come true.
History would later prove that indeed, his daughter, Ammarinthramat, would marry a certain influential general, Thong Duang, who later became Rama I (although she would not be elevated to the rank of queen until the reign of his son Rama II, having been on bad terms with Rama I following a story of jealousy…).
Fulfilling his promise, Ammarinthramat's father then had the special structure built. However, when the temple floor was eroded and destroyed by the waters of the Mae Klong River, the Kudi Thong was moved to this temple, originally named Wat Phummarin. It was thus renamed by adding Kudi Thong (also spelled Wat Phummarin Kudeethong).
It's easy to reach Wat Phummarin without taking the Five Temples Walk, as there's a barge that crosses the river from one side to the other. Departing from the docks at the end of Pong Sombun Street in Amphawa, they go directly across to Wat Bang Nang Lee Yai. Wat Phummarin is then 500 meters away.
The loop around Amphawa
The other loop is much more relaxing as there are no stops. The idea is to complete a loop in either direction, depending on your starting point, around the Amphawa market. This route will take you to the Mae Klong River, which you will follow for over 8 km before joining the canal that runs through Amphawa.
This last section is the most interesting in my opinion. Although the shortest at only 4 km, this stretch is narrower, allowing for a better appreciation of the vegetation and local life. Depending on the season, you might see children swimming, people leaning on the terraces of the restaurants and small resorts that line this part of the route.
In addition, you will pass through the market and have a view of the bustling quays from the canal.
As the Mae Klong River is quite wide, this part of the loop is less captivating, although the effect of being surrounded by these coconut trees on both sides and occasionally seeing a pretty temple appear, completing the picture, makes it still a pleasant ride, you let yourself be gently lulled by the purr of the engine (noisy if you are behind).
Allow an hour for this 12 km long tail ride
Seeing fireflies at night
The last possible loop is done at night. In fact, it's exactly the same as the loop described below. The only difference is that in the dim light of the river, and in the trees along the canal, you'll see a whole series of lights flashing, like Christmas decorations.
And no, you're not dreaming, these are swarms of fireflies!
This attraction, very popular with Thais, is, I must say, quite surprising. Especially on a dark, moonless night, the effect is quite hypnotic; children should love it!
To do this night tour, the price is then 60 Learn More per person.
Rama II Memorial Park
I mentioned this when discussing the temple at Kudi Thong; the sovereign's mother was from Samut Songkhram, and one of her sons, who became Rama II, was born right here in Amphawa. This park was built to honor King Rama II and is managed by the Phraboromrachanusorn Foundation under royal patronage.
It is built to commemorate its great patron of Thai arts and culture, which has become a national heritage.
This was made possible by the donation of land by Phra Rajsamutmatee, the abbot of the nearby temple, Wat Amphawan Chetiyaram, on which the memorial is built.
The Park houses a museum, which exhibits ancient art objects dating back to the early Rattanakosin era, and provides insight into the Thai way of life at the time of King Rama II.
Near the main entrance, is located a beautiful traditional Thai house, made of wood and on stilts. The rest of the park is in the form of a botanical garden containing various species of trees found in Thai literature.
The memorial also borders the Mae Klong River, practically opposite Wat Phummarin Kudi Thong, from where it is possible to take a barge to cross.
How to get to Amphawa
There are several options available to you. Most of them involve going to Samut Songkhram first, the main town located 7km east of Amphawa. It will take at least 1h30 depending on traffic to get there.
By car
You can always ask a taxi to take you there for simplicity. Depending on whether you're staying overnight or not, expect to pay a minimum of 1500 Baht for the trip and at least 2500 Baht for the day if you take a taxi from Bangkok.
If you enjoy exploring a country independently (which is usually my case), and rent a vehicle, head towards the southern highway, Highway 35, signposted Rama II Road from Bangkok. Continue for more than 60 km (be careful because in addition to the current roadworks, this road is very often subject to traffic jams).
You first pass Samut Sakhon and further on you will see the signs for Samut Songkhram. Once you arrive towards the city, you will pass next to a market at the end of a straight line and will have to turn right, follow the road, you will cross a railway and continue right just after. It will be indicated on the left at the next red light, you will have the 7 km mentioned just before.
I take advantage of this paragraph to mention that the rails that you are going to cross are those leading to the famous Mae Klong marketThe market known for its train passing through it is indeed here in Samut Songkhram! I will talk about it in more detail in a dedicated article, but it is worth noting here that it is a possible visit to combine with Amphawa (check the train times beforehand; generally, I am often there when the train arrives at the station at 14:30 pm).
By bus
Two options to do this. Either take a minivan from the new Chatuchak minibus station, called Morchit New Van Terminal. It was built under the highway just across from the Mor Chit bus terminal in northern Bangkok (and not far from the Chatuchak weekend market). A combination of BTS (sky train) to Mor Chit and then a taxi will get you there in no time.
This last will take you for 100 ฿ to Samut Songkhram van station. From there, walk to the nearby market, you will find tuk tuks running the route, but it is a bit far so may be more expensive than the minivan ride here. The best option is to take a blue songthaew (pick-up, normally numbered 333), which go to Amphawa for 20 Baht.
The other option is to go to the Bangkok South Terminal, Sai Tai Mai (or Southern Bus Terminal). There are also vans going to Samut Songkhram, the latter continuing their route since Their destination is the floating market of Damnoen Saduak.
If you're only interested in Amphawa, you can ask to be dropped off near the village. The van travels along Route 325, which is close to Amphawa. It should drop you off at a crossroads from where it's less than a kilometer's walk to the market.
You should get by for 70฿ per person with this option.
Bonus option, there is also minivans leaving from the old south station (Old Sai Tai Mai or Southern Mini Van Station), located 5 km upstream from the new terminal, in the Pin Klao district.
To leave and reach Bangkok, you will find vans next to the main bridge crossing the canal (where cars pass).
By train
An option for those in less of a hurry. Already because the train is not direct, the train is slow, and there are not 36 timetables. So it's for the fun of experiencing a smooth journey.
So, are you ready? In which case, go to Wongwian Yai station (via the BTS Silom Line, Wongwian Yai stop, then motorbike taxi or walk to the station, it's only 850m). There, you will have a choice of schedules (available here, departures from Wongwian Yai are to be read from top to bottom, on the left table).
To reach the terminus at Maha Chai station, it should take about an hour. From there, leave the station to the left and walk approximately 200 meters towards the main road. Turn left onto the main road and walk another 200 meters to the town pier. Take a boat from this Maha Chai pier (for 3 baht – they operate 24/7) to the pier opposite, Tha Chalom pier. Ban Laem station is a few hundred meters to your right.
Return to the terminus of this line, which goes to the town of Samut Songkhram, also known as Mae Klong. While doing so, you will pass through the train market!
To summarize :
- 1st train: Wongwian Yai to Maha Chai (18 stations) in Samut Sakhon city – 1 hour
- Cross the Tha Chin River to reach Ban Laem Station
- 2nd train: Ban Laem to Mae Klong (15 stations) in Samut Songkhram town -1h
- songthaew or other (motorbike taxis too if you are more daredevil) to get to Amphawa
Overall, at least 2 hours or even 30 hours for this very local method!
Book your trip to Samut Songkhram
If you are more of a forward-thinker, you can book your seats via 12go.
Why and where to sleep in Amphawa?
While many people are happy to do a day trip from Bangkok, you might just as well get the night off. You'll enjoy the atmosphere without the tourist crowds, leaving Amphawa to its evening quiet.
Until around 22pm, you can still enjoy the local restaurants to sit and eat by the water. Most of the guesthouses are in traditional wooden houses, bordering the canal.
In the early morning, do not miss the offerings to the monks, who come to collect alms from the inhabitants. Around 6-7am, you will see them passing on the canal with their small wooden boats. You can ask the staff of your GH that you wish to attend or even better, participate in the "tak baht" (the morning offering). They can then prepare something for you to give to the passing monks.
A perfect conclusion to this peaceful stay in Amphawa.
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