Weekend idea: Amphawa floating market

Amphawa is a floating market located in the small province of Samut Songkhram, some 90 km from the center of Bangkok. Considered the second most popular floating market near Bangkok, don't expect to see many boats, it's not as "busy" as in Damnoen Saduak. Its charm comes from elsewhere and Amphawa is often considered “more authentic.”

Indeed, along the canal are lined wooden houses typical of Thai architecture, most of them centuries old, giving a feeling of a Thailand of yesteryear. If I have already spoken to you from Amphawa on this blog, it remained a more “personal” and less informative article as I tend to deliver to you lately.

Having been there many other times since, I wanted to give a recent and comprehensive review of what you need to know about the Amphawa floating market.

A short history of Amphawa

This small village was already very lively in the middle of the 17th century since a market was already taking place there. Amphawa was then a small community prospering in agriculture and trade. Its location on the banks of the important Mae Klong River, leading to the Gulf of Thailand, is obviously not unrelated to this.

Later, a king of the current dynasty, Rama II, was even born there in 1766, his mother being a native of Amphawa. But its real popularity would begin much later. Amphawa, like all floating markets, would undergo a slow erosion in terms of attendance. Thais abandoned the floating aspect, perceived as "impractical", to go to more down-to-earth markets.

It's a photo of the canals in Bangkok, sure, but it gives an idea of ​​what Amphawa looked like back then.

Ambiance in Amphawa

This is, among other things, thanks to the revitalization of the community around the floating market of Damnoen Saduak, brought up to date to promote tourism, that the floating markets will experience a second wind.

But at Amphawa, more than a “floating” market, these are floating restaurants. The goal was never to recreate an animation with boats galore selling you everything and anything as has become the case in Damnoen Saduak. À Amphawa, we take the time to live and everything revolves, like good Thais, around food. Emphasis is also placed on the traditional aspect of the place, with shops selling products from local agriculture, some craft production and a friendly atmosphere.

In people's imagination, a floating market looks like this, except that it was 30 years ago....

Along the quays, you come across boats offering visitors fresh produce from the nearby sea. From clams to langoustines, you can admire your dish created on site on one of the boats equipped for this purpose. The biggest concentration area being around the small main pedestrian bridge, connecting the 2 sides of the canal and the 2 market areas.

We eat there directly seated on the edge of the quays, admiring the incessant sweep of boats offering trips along the canal and the river Mae. Klong (see below). I have heard people say they are "disappointed" withAmphawa, because I quote "there are not many boats".

People (tourists) tend to want to see a "real" floating market, so want to see lots of boats and will therefore head towards Damnoen Saduak (also because it's the only one open during the week). Result, Amphawa is mostly frequented by Thais, who unwind here on the weekend, and it's not so bad that way.

Its popularity remains constant and you might even have a little trouble moving along the docks at the drop of a hat. 19 hours, when the market reaches its peak in attendance. Unfortunately in recent years, there has been an increase in Chinese tourists, starting to abandon Damnoen Saduak (or combine the visit, the latter being only 13 km away) to also come and enjoy the delights of Amphawa.

When there are people.

There are several karaoke spots along the quays.

So far, this does not take away from the charm of the place. Even if Amphawa evolves, shops are renovated, more "modern" extensions are added, the general atmosphere remains resolutely Thai. Sitting by the canal on a terrace, listening to live music, tasting a good local dish with a good beer, it is always something enjoyable.

What to do in and around Amphawa

The main attraction is of course the market itself, so Amphawa is mainly visited on weekends for that. But even during the week, the town has a certain charm. A few shops open along the canal and boat trips are still possible.

Amphawa Market on weekdays.

Concretely, several zones can be distinguished. The main one being on each side of the canal. As you walk through the aisles, you can come across all kinds of food and smells emanating from the various restaurants lined up along. The local specialty is steamed mackerel. You will also have shops selling crafts, sometimes local, sometimes more general in the souvenir genre.

If you are not hungry for a hot meal, you will also find lovely cafes, desserts, ice creams and what about you poser along the water to admire the incessant sweep of boats navigating the canal. In total, 3 small pedestrian bridges allow you to cross from one side of the canal to the other, so it is possible to make a loop without having to retrace your steps.

One of the restaurants in the market.

The other areas are the shops and street food stalls aligned on either side of the canal, perpendicular to the latter, from the car park of What Amphawan Chetiyaram to the Mae Klong River embankments on the other (towards the police station).

Finally, Thailand obliges, you will find at the end of the alley is (the one opposite the temple, the What Amphawan Chetiyaram, leading towards the river) a massage parlor, located in an old wooden building on the water's edge. 

The entrance to the market, at the parking lot next to Wat Amphawan Chetiyaram.

The green space in front of Wat Amphawan Chetiyaram.

The bridge connecting the 2 sides of the market.

The massage parlor is in the big wooden house.

Boat trip and fireflies

In addition eat and shopping for souvenirs or other, the popular activity in Amphawa is to take one of the many boats (long tail) offering tours around the market. You won't be able to miss them, because some will shout to attract customers "Long tail Boat! Fifty Bahts!", pointing at their sign to show you the highlights of the towers.

During the day, there are 2 different tours:

• • • The tour of the 5 temples
    • The loop around Amphawa

In both cases, the fare will be 50฿ per person, if you are OK with waiting. The trick in this case is that you have to wait for the boat to fill up before you can leave. The other option is to rent the whole boat directly if you have the budget and don't want/can't wait. In this case, expect to pay around 500-600 Baht per boat (depending on the size).

The tour of the 5 temples

As the name explicitly suggests, this tour involves visiting 5 different temples located along the Mae River Klong, with a 15-minute stop at each of them. Generally, these 5 temples are as follows:

• • • Wat Pummarin Kudeethong
    • Wat Thong Khung
    • Wat Kasemsoranaram (also called Wat Bangchak)
    • Wat Bang Khae Yai
    • What Bang Kung

It can be interesting to observe Thais paying respect to Buddha at each temple, making a donation followed by a prayer with the typical kit, which includes a candle, incense and flowers (and usually, a gold leaf to stick on one of the statuettes).

Let's go for a ride!

However, this tour can be a bit redundant and if there are some interesting temples in the lot (and others in the region elsewhere), it may be more useful to visit them by land. Among these, the best known is the What Bang kung.

Wat Bang Kung, the plant temple

Its history dates back more than 200 years. During the conflict between the Ayutthaya Kingdom and its Burmese neighbor, the Wat Bang Kung then served as a military campThe goal? To train the local villagers in the art of Muay Thai to counter the Burmese joining the Siamese army, which was struggling after the invasion of their capital in 1767.

You will understand why there are statues of people practicing Muay Thai there. It has become a commemorative place. Today, the result is the ruins of a small, atypical ubosot (prayer place). Also called Bot Pork Pho, this building is today covered by several trees with intertwining roots. There are 4 species including a bodhi tree and a banyan tree.

These trees have enveloped the building, giving the impression at first glance, from a distance, of seeing only a tuft of greenery. It is a peaceful site on weekdays, with most people coming to see it in combination with the floating market inAmphaw, it is in full swing with animation weekend.

Inside, you can see a statue of Buddha enthroned at the end of the room. The latter, called luang Phot Boots We is covered with gold leaf, stuck on every day by devotees who come to honor the place. Inside the room, besides the visible roots embedded in the brick, one can still distinguish the old wall paintings, depicting the story of Buddha.

Wat Phummarin Kudi Thong

This is the other most famous temple. There is an unusual story behind the stunning teak wood residence located in this old temple. Originally, the latter was located in another temple, the What Bang Li. It is said that a man from a prominent family was told by the abbot that his daughter would become queen. The rich man then promised to build a Money thong (a monks' residence in precious golden teak), if the abbot's prediction were to come true.

History would later prove that indeed, his daughter, Ammarinthramat, will marry a certain influential general, Thong Plan, later known as Rama I (even if it will not be elevated to the rank of pure that under the reign of his son Rama II, having been on bad terms with Rama I following a story of jealousy…).

Fulfilling his word, the father ofAmmarinthramat then had the special structure built. However, when the temple floor was eroded and destroyed by the water of the Mae River Klong,  Money Thong was moved to this temple, originally named What Phummarin. It was later renamed by adding Money thong (also spelled What Phummarin Kudeethong).

It is easy to get to the What Phummarin without going through the 5 temples walk since there is a barge crossing the river on both sides. Leaving from the docks at the end of the street Pong Sombun, they normally go just opposite, to the What Bang Nan Lee Yai. Le What Phummarin then being 500 m away.

The loop around Amphawa

The other loop is much more relaxing since there are no stops. The idea being to make a loop in one direction or the other depending on the starting point, around the market ofAmphawa. In doing so, you will reach the Mae River Klong, which you will follow for more than 8 km before joining the canal passing through Amphawa.

This last part is the most interesting in my opinion. Although the shortest with only 4 km, this passage is more narrow, we therefore better appreciate the observation of the vegetation and the life of the locals. Depending on the season, you can see children swimming, people leaning on restaurant terraces and small resort which mark this part of the journey.

In addition, you will pass through the market and have a view of the bustling quays from the canal.

The Mae River Klong being quite wide, this part of the loop is less gripping, even if the effect of being surrounded by these coconut trees on both sides and from time to time, seeing a pretty temple emerge to complete the picture, it remains a pleasant walk, we then gently let ourselves go rock by the purr of the engine (loud if you are behind).

Allow an hour for this 12 km long tail ride

Seeing fireflies at night

The last possible tour is done at night. In fact, exactly the same as the loop described below. Except that in the darkness of the river, and in the trees along the canal, you will see a whole series of lights flashing, like Christmas decorations. And no, you are not dreaming, these are clouds of fireflies!

This attraction, which is very popular with Thais, is, I must say, quite surprising. Above all, if the night is dark, without a moon, the effect is quite hypnotic, children should love it!

To do this night tour, the price is then 60 Learn More per person.

Rama II Memorial Park

I was talking about it when I mentioned the temple at Money Thong, the mother of the sovereign, is from Samut Songkhram and one of his sons, who became Rama II, was born right here in Amphawa. This park was built to honor King Rama II, and is run by the Phraboromrachanusorn Foundation under royal patronage. It is built to commemorate his great patronage of Thai arts and culture, which has become a national heritage.

Traditional house in Rama II Park.

This was made possible by the donation of land by Phra Rajsamutmatee, the abbot of the nearby temple, Wat Amphawan Chetiyaram, on which the memorial is built. The Park houses a museum, which exhibits ancient art objects dating back to the early Rattanakosin era, and provides insight into the Thai way of life at the time of King Rama II.

Near the main entrance, is located a beautiful traditional Thai house, made of wood and on stilts. The rest of the park is in the form of a botanical garden containing various species of trees found in Thai literature. The memorial also adjoins the Mae Klong River, almost opposite Wat Phummarin Kudi Thong, from where it is possible to take a barge to cross.

A scene depicted in the museum.

How to get to Amphawa

There are several options available to you. Most of them involve going to Samut Songkhram first, the main town located 7km east of Amphawa. It will take at least 1h30 depending on traffic to get there.

By car

You can always ask a taxi to take you there to make it simple. Depending on whether you stay on site or not, count on 1500 Baht minimum for the journey and at least 2500 Baht for the day if you do it by taxi from Bangkok.

If you are a fan of discovering a country on your own (which is usually my case), and rent a vehicle, take the southern highway direction, Highway 35, signposted Rama II Road from Bangkok. Continue for more than 60 km (be careful because in addition to the current roadworks, this road is very often subject to traffic jams).

You first pass Samut Sakhon and further on you will see the signs for Samut Songkhram. Once you arrive towards the city, you will pass next to a market at the end of a straight line and will have to turn right, follow the road, you will cross a railway and continue right just after. It will be indicated on the left at the next red light, you will have the 7 km mentioned just before.

I take advantage of this paragraph to mention that the rails that you are going to cross are those leading to the famous Mae Klong market, the market known for its train crossing it, it is here, at Samut Songkhram ! I will talk about it in more detail in a dedicated article, but it should be noted here that it is a possible visit to combine with Amphawa (check the train times before, in general, I am often there when the train arrives at the station at 14h30).

By bus

Two options to do this. Either take a minivan from the new Chatuchak minibus station, called Morchit New Van Terminal. It was built under the highway just across from the Mor Chit bus terminal in northern Bangkok (and not far from the Chatuchak weekend market). A combination of BTS (sky train) to Mor Chit and then a taxi will get you there in no time.

This last will take you for 100 ฿ to Samut Songkhram van station. From there, walk to the nearby market, you will find tuk tuks running the route, but it is a bit far so may be more expensive than the minivan ride here. The best option is to take a blue songthaew (pick-up, normally numbered 333), which go to Amphawa for 20 Baht.

The other option is to go to the Bangkok South Terminal, Sai Tai Mai (or Southern Bus Terminal). There are also vans going to Samut Songkhram, the latter continuing their route since Their destination is the floating market of Damnoen Saduak. If you are only interested in Amphawa, you can ask to get off near the village. The van goes through road 325 which is close to Amphawa. It should drop you off at a crossroads where you will have less than a kilometer walk to reach the market.

You should get by for 70฿ per person with this option.

Bonus option, there is also minivans leaving from the old south station (Old Sai Tai Mai or Southern Mini Van Station), located 5 km upstream from the new terminal, in the Pin Klao district.

To leave and reach Bangkok, you will find vans next to the main bridge crossing the canal (where cars pass).

By train

An option for those in less of a hurry. Already because the train is not direct, the train is slow, and there are not 36 timetables. So it's for the fun of experiencing a smooth journey.

So, are you ready? In which case, go to Wongwian Yai station (via the BTS Silom Line, Wongwian Yai stop, then motorbike taxi or walk to the station, it's only 850m). There, you will have a choice of schedules (available here, departures from Wongwian Yai are to be read from top to bottom, on the left table).

To reach the terminus, Maha Chai station, it should take an hour. From there, leave the station on the left, and walk about 200 meters to the main road. Turn left onto the main road, and marcher Another 200 meters to the city pier. Take a boat from this Maha Chai pier (for 3 baht – they operate 24/7) towards the quay facing him, Tha Shalom pier. Ban station Laem is a few hundred meters on your right.

The train arriving at Mae Klong market in Samut Songkhram.

Go back to the end of this line which goes to the city de Samut Songkhram, also known as Mae Klong. In doing so, you will pass through the train market!

To summarize :

• 1st train: Wongwian Yai to Maha Chai (18 stations) in Samut Sakhon city – 1 hour
•  Cross the Tha Chin River to reach Ban Laem Station
• 2nd train: Ban Laem to Mae Klong (15 stations) in Samut Songkhram town -1h
• songthaew or other (motorbike taxis too if you are more daredevil) to get to Amphawa

Overall, at least 2 hours or even 30 hours for this very local method!

Book your trip to Samut Songkhram

If you are more of a forward-thinker, you can book your seats via 12go.

Why and where to sleep in Amphawa?

While many people are happy to do a day trip from Bangkok, you might just as well get the night off. You'll enjoy the atmosphere without the tourist crowds, leaving Amphawa to its evening quiet.

Until around 22pm, you can still enjoy the local restaurants to sit and eat by the water. Most of the guesthouses are in traditional wooden houses, bordering the canal.

Amphawa in the evening.

Once calm has returned.

In the early morning, do not miss the offerings to the monks, who come to collect alms from the inhabitants. Around 6-7am, you will see them passing on the canal with their small wooden boats. You can ask the staff of your GH that you wish to attend or even better, participate in the "tak baht" (the morning offering). They can then prepare something for you to give to the passing monks.

A perfect conclusion to this peaceful stay in Amphawa.

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