Amphawa is a floating market located in the small province of Samut Songkhram, about 90 km from the center of Bangkok. Considered the second most popular floating market after Damnoen Saduak , one should not expect to see dozens of boats loaded with all kinds of goods: Amphawa is primarily a market on the canal bank rather than a true floating market.
Its charm comes from elsewhere. Amphawa is often considered more authentic, thanks to its rows of centuries-old wooden houses and an atmosphere largely driven by the Thais, who come in large numbers on weekends.
I've already talked about Amphawa on this blog , but it was more of a personal article than a truly practical one, and above all, it was starting to get a bit old. Having visited many times since then, I wanted to provide a recent and comprehensive overview of what you need to know about the Amphawa floating market.
A short history of Amphawa
This small village was already very lively in the middle of the 17th century since a market was already taking place there. Amphawa was then a small community prospering in agriculture and trade. Its location on the banks of the important Mae Klong River, leading to the Gulf of Thailand, is obviously not unrelated to this.
Later, a king of the current dynasty, Rama II, was even born there in 1766, his mother being a native of Amphawa. But its real popularity would begin much later. Amphawa, like all floating markets, would undergo a slow erosion in terms of attendance. Thais abandoned the floating aspect, perceived as "impractical", to go to more down-to-earth markets.
What to do in and around Amphawa
The main attraction is, of course, the market itself, so Amphawa is mainly visited on weekends for that reason. But even during the week, the town has a certain charm.
A few shops are opening along the canal and boat trips are still possible.
The Amphawa Floating Market
It is, among other things, thanks to the revitalization of the community around the Damnoen Saduak floating market, brought up to date to promote tourism, that floating markets will experience a second wind.
But in Amphawa, it's more than just a "floating" market; it's a collection of floating restaurants. The aim was never to recreate the bustling activity of countless boats selling anything and everything, as has become the case in Damnoen Saduak.
In Amphawa, life moves at a slower pace, and everything, like in Thailand, revolves around food. Emphasis is also placed on the traditional aspect of the place, with shops selling locally grown produce, some handicrafts, and a friendly atmosphere.
Along the quays, boats offer visitors fresh seafood from the nearby sea. From clams to langoustines, you can admire your dish being prepared on-site on one of the specially equipped boats. The largest gathering point is around the main pedestrian bridge, which connects the two sides of the canal and the two sections of the market.
You can eat right there, sitting on the quayside, admiring the constant stream of boats offering rides along the canal and the Mae Klong River (see below). I've heard people say they were "disappointed" with Amphawa because, and I quote, "there aren't many boats."
People (tourists) tend to want to see a "real" floating market, so they want to see lots of boats and will therefore head towards Damnoen Saduak (also because it is the only one open on weekdays).
As a result, Amphawa is mostly frequented by Thais , who unwind here on weekends, and that's not a bad thing.
Its popularity remains constant and you might even have some difficulty moving along the quays around 19 p.m., when the market reaches its peak in attendance.
After an increase in Chinese tourists, who were neglecting Damnoen Saduak (or combining the visit, as it is only 13 km away) to also enjoy the delights of Amphawa, it has returned to calmer levels in recent years, making the site still pleasant to visit.
So far, even though Amphawa is evolving, shops are being renovated, more "modern" extensions are being added, the overall atmosphere remains resolutely "Thai".
Sitting on a terrace by the canal, listening to live music, enjoying a good local dish with a good beer, is always something enjoyable.
Several distinct zones can be identified. The main one is the row of shops on either side of the canal. As you walk through the aisles, you'll encounter all sorts of food and aromas emanating from the various restaurants lining the area.
The local specialty is steamed mackerel. You will also have shops selling crafts, sometimes local, sometimes more general in the souvenir genre.
If you're not hungry for a hot meal, you'll also find charming cafes, desserts, ice cream , and places to sit by the water and admire the endless stream of boats sailing on the canal.
In total, 3 small pedestrian bridges allow you to cross to either side of the canal, so it is possible to make a loop without having to retrace your steps.
The other areas are the shops and street food stalls lined up on either side of the canal, perpendicular to it, from the Wat Amphawan Chetiyaram parking lot to the quays of the Mae Klong river on the other side (towards the police station).
Finally, as is typical in Thailand, at the end of the eastern alley (the one opposite the temple, Wat Amphawan Chetiyaram, leading towards the river) you will find a massage parlor , located in an old wooden building by the water.
Boat trips: day and night
Besides eating and shopping for souvenirs or other items, a popular activity in Amphawa is taking one of the many boats (long tail) offering rides around the market.
You won't be able to miss them, as some will shout to attract customers "Long Tail Boat! Fifty Bahts!", pointing at their sign to show you the highlights of the tours.
During the day, there are 2 different daytime tours + one night tour:
- The tour of the 5 temples
- The loop around Amphawa
- The fireflies
In both cases, the price will be 50 baht per person , if you're willing to wait. The catch is that you have to wait for the boat to fill up before you can leave. The other option is to rent the entire boat directly if you have the budget and don't want to/can't wait. In that case, expect to pay around 500-600 baht per boat (depending on the size).
The tour of the 5 temples
As its name explicitly indicates, this tour involves visiting 5 different temples located along the Mae Klong River, with a 15-minute stop at each one. Generally, these 5 temples are as follows:
- Wat Pummarin Kudeethong
- Wat Thong Khung
- Wat Kasemsoranaram (also called Wat Bangchak)
- Wat Bang Khae Yai
- What Bang Kung
It can be interesting to observe Thais paying respect to Buddha at each temple, making a donation followed by a prayer with the typical kit, which includes a candle, incense and flowers (and usually, a gold leaf to stick on one of the statuettes).
However, this tour can become a little repetitive and while there are some interesting temples in the area (and others in the region for that matter), it may be more useful to visit them by land, selecting the most interesting ones; I suggest two below.
Allow around 1h30 to 2h in total for this tour.
Wat Bang Kung, the plant temple
Its history dates back more than 200 years. During the conflict between the Kingdom of Ayutthaya and its Burmese neighbor, Wat Bang Kung served as a military camp . The goal? To train local villagers in the art of Muay Thai so they could counter the Burmese and join the Siamese army, which was struggling against the invasion of their capital in 1767.
You'll understand why you see statues of Muay Thai fighters there. It has become a memorial site. The result is the ruins of a small, unusual ubosot (prayer house). Also called Bot Pork Pho, this temple is now covered by several trees, four species in total, including a bodhi tree and a banyan tree whose roots intertwine around the walls.
These trees have enveloped the building, giving the impression at first glance, from a distance, of seeing only a clump of greenery. It is a peaceful site during the week, with most people visiting in combination with the Amphawa floating market; it is bustling with activity on weekends.
Inside, you can see a Buddha statue enthroned at the end of the room. This statue, called Luang Phot Bot Noi, is covered in gold leaf, which is applied daily by devotees who come to honor the site.
Inside the room, besides the visible roots embedded in the brick, one can still distinguish the old murals with some visible Buddhas.
Wat Phummarin Kudi Thong
This is the other most famous temple. An unusual story lies behind the superb teakwood residence located within this old temple. Originally, it was located in another temple, Wat Bang Li.
It is said that a man from a prominent family was told by the abbot that his daughter would become queen. The wealthy man then promised to build a Kudi Thong (a monks' residence made of precious golden teak) if the abbot's prediction came true.
History would later prove that indeed, his daughter, Ammarinthramat, would marry a certain influential general, Thong Duang, who later became Rama I (although she would not be elevated to the rank of queen until the reign of his son Rama II, having been on bad terms with Rama I following a story of jealousy…).
Fulfilling his promise, Ammarinthramat's father then had the special structure built. However, when the temple floor was eroded and destroyed by the waters of the Mae Klong River, the Kudi Thong was moved to this temple, originally named Wat Phummarin. It was thus renamed by adding Kudi Thong (also spelled Wat Phummarin Kudeethong).
It's easy to reach Wat Phummarin without taking the Five Temples Walk, as there's a barge that crosses the river from one side to the other. Departing from the docks at the end of Pong Sombun Street in Amphawa, they go directly across to Wat Bang Nang Lee Yai. Wat Phummarin is then 500 meters away.
The loop around Amphawa
The other loop is much more relaxing as there are no stops. The idea is to complete a loop in either direction, depending on your starting point, around the Amphawa market. This route will take you to the Mae Klong River, which you will follow for over 8 km before joining the canal that runs through Amphawa.
This last part is the most interesting in my opinion. Although the shortest at only 4 km, this section is narrower, so you can better appreciate observing the vegetation and the lives of the locals.
Depending on the season, you might see children swimming, people leaning on the terraces of the restaurants and small resorts that dot this part of the route.
In addition, you will pass through the market and have a view of the bustling quays from the canal.
As the Mae Klong River is quite wide, this part of the loop is less captivating, although the effect of being surrounded by these coconut trees on both sides and occasionally seeing a pretty temple appear, completing the picture, makes it still a pleasant ride, you let yourself be gently lulled by the purr of the engine (noisy if you are behind).
Allow an hour for this 12 km long tail ride
Bonus: Night walk to see the fireflies
The last possible loop is done at night. In fact, it's exactly the same as the loop described below. The only difference is that in the dim light of the river, and in the trees along the canal, you'll see a whole series of lights flashing, like Christmas decorations.
And no, you're not dreaming, these are swarms of fireflies!
This attraction, very popular with Thais, is, I must say, quite surprising. Especially on a dark, moonless night, the effect is quite hypnotic; children should love it!
To take this tour at night, the price is 60 ฿per person.
Rama II Memorial Park
I mentioned this when discussing the temple at Kudi Thong; the sovereign's mother was from Samut Songkhram, and one of her sons, who became Rama II, was born right here in Amphawa. This park was built to honor King Rama II and is managed by the Phraboromrachanusorn Foundation under royal patronage.
It is built to commemorate its great patron of Thai arts and culture, which has become a national heritage.
This was made possible by the donation of land by Phra Rajsamutmatee, the abbot of the nearby temple, Wat Amphawan Chetiyaram, on which the memorial is built.
The park houses a museum , which displays ancient art objects dating from the beginning of the Rattanakosin era, and allows visitors to learn a little more about the way of life of Thais during the time of King Rama II.
Near the main entrance is a beautiful traditional Thai house , made of wood and built on stilts. The rest of the park is a botanical garden containing various tree species featured in Thai literature.
The memorial also borders the Mae Klong River, practically opposite Wat Phummarin Kudi Thong, from where it is possible to take a barge to cross.
How to get to Amphawa
There are several options available to you. Most of them involve going to Samut Songkhram first, the main town located 7km east of Amphawa. It will take at least 1h30 depending on traffic to get there.
By car
You can always ask a taxi to take you there for simplicity. Depending on whether you're staying overnight or not, expect to pay a minimum of 1500 Baht for the trip and at least 2500 Baht for the day if you take a taxi from Bangkok.
If you enjoy exploring a country independently (which is usually my preference), and you rent a vehicle, head towards the southern highway, Highway 35, signposted Rama II Road from Bangkok. Continue for over 60 km (be aware that in addition to the current roadworks, this road is very often subject to traffic jams).
You'll first pass through Samut Sakhon, and further on, you'll see signs for Samut Songkhram . Once you reach the town, you'll pass a market at the end of a straight stretch and turn right. Follow the road, cross a railway line, and continue to the right immediately after. The next traffic light will be signposted to the left; the remaining 7 km mentioned earlier will be from there.
I'm taking this opportunity to mention that the tracks you'll be crossing are the ones leading to the famous Mae Klong market , the market known for its train passing through it – it's right here in Samut Songkhram! I'll talk about it in more detail in a dedicated article, but it's worth noting here that it's a visit that can be combined with Amphawa (check the train schedule beforehand; I'm usually there when the train arrives at the station at 14:30 pm).
By bus
There are two options. You can either take a minivan from the new Chatuchak minibus station, called Mor Chit New Van Terminal . It's located under the highway directly opposite the Mor Chit bus terminal in northern Bangkok (and not far from the Chatuchak Weekend Market). By combining the BTS Skytrain to Mor Chit and then a taxi, you'll be there in no time.
The minivan will take you to the Samut Songkhram van station for 100 baht . From there, walk to the nearby market; you'll find tuk-tuks making the trip, but it's a bit far and might be more expensive than the minivan fare. The best option is to take a blue songthaew (pickup truck, usually numbered 333), which goes to Amphawa for 20 baht.
The other option is to go to Bangkok's southern bus terminal, Sai Tai Mai (or Southern Bus Terminal). There are also vans there heading towards Samut Songkhram, which continue on their way since their destination is the Damnoen Saduak floating market.
If you're only interested in Amphawa, you can ask to be dropped off near the village. The van travels along Route 325, which is close to Amphawa. It should drop you off at a crossroads from where it's less than a kilometer's walk to the market.
You should get by for 70฿ per person with this option.
As a bonus option, there are also minivans departing from the old southern station (Old Sai Tai Mai or Southern Mini Van Station), located 5 km upstream from the new terminal, in the Pin Klao district.
To leave and return to Bangkok, you will find vans next to the main bridge crossing the canal (where the cars pass).
By train
An option for those in less of a hurry. Already because the train is not direct, the train is slow, and there are not 36 timetables. So it's for the fun of experiencing a smooth journey.
So, ready to go? In that case, head to Wongwian Yai Station (via the BTS Skyline, Wongwian Yai stop, then a motorbike taxi or walk to the station; it's only 850m). There, you'll have a choice of train times ( check here ; departures from Wongwian Yai are listed from top to bottom on the left-hand side of the board).
To reach the terminus at Maha Chai station, it should take about an hour. From there, leave the station to the left and walk approximately 200 meters towards the main road. Turn left onto the main road and walk another 200 meters to the town pier. Take a boat from this Maha Chai pier (for 3 baht – they operate 24/7) to the pier opposite, Tha Chalom pier. Ban Laem station is a few hundred meters to your right.
Head back to the terminus of this line, which goes to the town of Samut Songkhram, also known as Mae Klong. On the way, you'll pass through the train market!
To summarize :
- 1st train: Wongwian Yai to Maha Chai (18 stations) in Samut Sakhon city – 1 hour
- Cross the Tha Chin River to reach Ban Laem Station
- 2nd train: Ban Laem to Mae Klong (15 stations) in Samut Songkhram town -1h
- songthaew or other (motorbike taxis too if you are more daredevil) to get to Amphawa
Overall, at least 2 hours or even 30 hours for this very local method!
Book your trip to Samut Songkhram
If you are more of a forward-thinker, you can book your seats via 12go.
Why and where to sleep in Amphawa?
While many people are happy to do a day trip from Bangkok, you might just as well get the night off. You'll enjoy the atmosphere without the tourist crowds, leaving Amphawa to its evening quiet.
→ Conversely, if you prefer to keep Bangkok as your base, also consider carefully choosing your starting area: I have detailed the most practical options in my guide to knowing which area to stay in in Bangkok.
Until around 22pm, you can still enjoy the local restaurants to sit and eat by the water. Most of the guesthouses are in traditional wooden houses, bordering the canal.
Early in the morning, don't miss the offerings to the monks, who come to collect alms from the locals. Around 6 or 7 a.m., you'll see them passing on the canal in their small wooden boats.
You can ask the staff at your guesthouse if you would like to attend, or even better, participate in the morning "tak baht" (offering). They can then prepare something for you to give to the visiting monks.
A perfect conclusion to this peaceful stay in Amphawa.
Did you like this article? Share it on Pinterest!
