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Bodhgaya: Arrival at the Cradle of Buddhism

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3.5
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For this 2nd day, we had to go to Bodhgaya, an important place for Buddhists since it is there that the Buddha practiced his meditation under the sacred Bodhi tree before finally reaching Nirvana.

We left early in the morning by taxi (150 Rs) towards Howrah station, not far from our hotel, crossing the famous Howrah bridge along the way.

The bridge built between 1937 and 1943 is the 6th longest in the world in its category (cantilever type, i.e. with cantilever beams). 30m wide with a span of 457m crossing the Hooghly River, one of the branches of the Ganges, the bridge supports daily traffic of some 80 vehicles, 000 million pedestrians and a few thousand cattle...

howrah bridge calcutta - india
We cross the Howrah Bridge to head towards the station of the same name, one of the busiest in the world.

Train journey Calcutta – Bodhgaya

We had barely set foot in front of the station when a porter offered to carry my bag. At that moment, I thought to myself that I could carry my bag and at the same time, I thought to myself why "steal" his livelihood, so there he was, heading towards our train after we had informed him of our destination.

It should be noted that Calcutta station has one of the highest passenger volumes in the world, meaning there are a lot of people around.

Didn't have much time to see the station since we arrived and got on our train straight away which was already at the platform. The train left the station a good half hour later. We were in second class, the "legend" that Indian trains are packed to the point of not knowing where to sit (on the roof) is far away for us.

Everyone has their assigned seat and if a few people will squat the same corner of the cabin before departure, once the train has left, everyone returned to their quarters and the journey went smoothly. We ate our meal on the train while a guy came by to sell bags of chicken, 95 Rs for lunch.

yellow taxis in front of calcutta station - india

Calcutta train - India

Calcutta train - India

Calcutta train - India

in train calcutta bodhgaya - india

train calcutta bodhgaya - india

train calcutta bodhgaya - india

train calcutta bodhgaya - india
Desert…

Upon arriving at Gaya station, we decided to buy our tickets to Varanasi , our next stop. Tickets for a night train the day after tomorrow. There weren't many people, and yet it was a long journey…

Between the shameless Indians who pass in front to ask for something, the only counter (no. 7) available for reservations which really took its time, we had to be patient, but we did get our ticket, couchettes, forced to take a higher class due to lack of space, it would cost us 3 Rs.

We notice that people are crowding into the corridors and elsewhere while waiting for, I don't know which train, because they don't have reservations, necessarily cheaper, and arrive as early as possible to be sure of having a seat.

Once this was done we could finally reach Bodhgaya , after a tuk tuk ride, only 150 Rs, because it was shared with a few other Indians along the way.

bodhgaya station - india
Arriving at Bodhgaya railway station.
bodhgaya station - india
Not many people… And yet, it will take us half an hour to get our train ticket to Varanasi…
bodhgaya - india
In the shared tuk tuk.

bodhgaya - india

bodhgaya - india

bodhgaya - india
Even on the rooftops.

How to sleep in a temple

Our goal for Bodhgaya was to sleep in the main Thai temple, knowing that for Thais, it is all the more possible as it is free, meals included.

So we went to the temple, unfortunately, we were told that a group of monks being present at the temple at the moment (Bodhgaya being a major place of pilgrimage for Buddhists) all the rooms were unavailable.

bodhgaya - india

bodhgaya - india

bodhgaya - india
We pass the Buddhist monastery in Bangladesh.
a thai bodhgaya temple - india
The other Thai temple in Bodhgaya.

bodhgaya - india

bodhgaya - india
The scenery around the other Thai temple.

bodhgaya - india

bodhgaya - india
There we came across a group of children who were very happy to have a photo shoot.
cow dung drying bodhgaya - india
Drying cow dung, used as fuel for cooking in particular.

bodhgaya alley - india

Ok… So we set off again towards another Thai temple a little far away where we were advised to go.

Jitima explains our situation to a nun passing by, she tells us that she is going to look for someone in charge... Still not seeing her return after more than half an hour, we decide to leave.

Not having a hotel and really wanting to save money, we decided to try our luck again at the first temple, they having told us that they would see what they could do and miraculously, they found us a room to sleep in!

Obviously, it's very basic, a very thin, hard mattress, no sheets, no blankets, nothing, we still have a bathroom nearby.

But it's perfect for us, Jitima feels at home among his friends and the meal being included allows us to taste something other than curries which we were starting to overdose on after everything we had eaten in Sri Lanka.

thai temple bodhgaya - india
Here we are at the Thai temple, easily recognizable.

A Little Lesson in Buddhism

Bodhgaya has the appearance of a village despite having nearly 31 inhabitants. Part of the Gaya district (where we arrived by train, some 000km away) in the province of Bihar, the small town is, as I said earlier, a major Buddhist pilgrimage site, the reason being that it is the place where Prince Siddhartha Gautama, the one who would become the Buddha, attained "enlightenment".

Buddha which is actually a "title" designating the one who, through his wisdom, has achieved Awakening (bodhi), that is to say attained Nirvana. It is also defined as a kind of elevated consciousness and supreme knowledge and that of a total and permanent inner peace.

In Buddhist belief, reaching this stage ends the cycles of reincarnation and one can finally reach heaven.

monk under a tree
Photo credit : Pixa Bay Maxlkt

Walking through the streets of Bodhgaya

For our part, there was no meditation or other moment of relaxation, but rather a walk through the alleyways of Bodhgaya where poverty hits you full force. Children smile cheerfully at you, not necessarily begging, but simply enjoying the pleasure of having their picture taken and receiving a little attention.

We'll go on a "reconnaissance" tour around the Mahabodhi temple , where the Bodhi tree is located, under which Buddha... Well, I'm not going to repeat myself...

place temple bodhgaya - india
On the square adjoining the main temple of Bodhgaya, the Mahabodhi temple.
rickshaw bodhgaya - india
On a rickshaw taking us back to the Thai temple, it's not far but we thought it would make someone happy.
access room temple thai bodhgaya - india
On the way to our little room.
monk thai temple bodhgaya - india
A monk will chat with Jitima for a little while.
thai temple meal bodhgaya - india
Our meal of the day, at the Thai temple.
thai temple meal bodhgaya - india
Other Thais (employees?) were there too.

After this walk we will return by rickshaw (40 Rs) to the temple to have our meal just before they close the service (we are obviously held to fixed times) then we will leave again for the Mahabodhi, at night this time, just to take a digestive walk and because there is nothing else to do in the area...

Before going to bed, we will stay a little in the Thai temple café, with the monks amused by my presence, some of whom will take pictures (I lost mine after my phone's memory card was corrupted...).

As is customary at the Temple, one does not "buy" the available drinks in the strict sense, one makes a "donation" by slipping one's coins and/or bills into the box provided for this purpose.

place temple night bodhgaya - india
Short night stroll in front of the Mahabodhi temple.

night market bodhgaya temple - india

mahabodhi temple night bodhgaya - india
A view of the Mahabodhi Temple compound at night.
thai temple bodhgaya - india
The Thai temple has its own little café (with WiFi, please), where some monks meet in the evening to chat.
night temple thai bodhgaya - india
Obviously it's basic, but it's free!

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