Chiang Mai, the "rose of the north" is a city particularly suitable for walking and visiting its many temples, among the oldest in the kingdom, once an independent kingdom of Lanna.
Many, quite rightly, will be happy to focus on the central square. This area defines the historic old Chiang Mai, still partially delimited by the remains of its ancient wall. It is also in this central zone that most of the old temples that make the old city famous are located (although there are others just as interesting in the immediate vicinity; I discuss them in an article detailing 5 temples to see outside the old city ).
Today, I invite you to explore another part of Chiang Mai, stretching to the Ping River, which flows through the city to the west. This walking tour focuses particularly on the famous Warorot Market (also known as Kad Luang). This short walk will allow you to discover buildings with interesting architecture and immerse yourself in the markets that shape local life.
The walk on a map
It's not strictly a loop, and to be transparent, I didn't walk the entire route myself (I rented a scooter that day, mainly because we were going to visit the Jing Jai market that morning, located further north). However, the overall distance is less than 4 km and can easily be covered in 2-3 hours without any problems. While this is the route I took, it's not essential to follow it exactly; the section of the loop that crosses the river isn't strictly necessary, unless you're looking for a good coffee and an art gallery.
Starting point: Si Phum corner
I suggest we begin this personalized tour from one of the corners marking the old city wall of Chiang Mai . The red brick walls that once surrounded the city are still visible, particularly in the corners and around the old gates, notably the Tha Phae Gate, which serves as the endpoint for this walking tour.
The fortifications were built 700 years ago by King Mangrai, when he established Chiang Mai as his new capital (which, as a reminder, means "new city"). This was in the 14th century, the golden age of the Lanna kingdom , which stretched across the entire northern region of Thailand, and Chiang Mai was to replace the old capital, located further north, the aptly named Chiang Rai.
In addition to the wall, you will appreciate the charm of the canals (the old moats surrounding the city), but you will also have an unobstructed view of the mountain inseparable from Chiang Mai, Doi Suthep.
Coffee break at brewginning coffee
Not necessarily essential, this first step can be an opportunity to try one of the many coffee shops in Chiang Mai (and the country). It may not be obvious at first glance, but if you are a connoisseur of the blog, perhaps you have already noticed my attraction to coffee shops, especially since more and more of them have been offering very good coffees (Arabica, what's more), and the environments and/or decor are often original and pleasant.
Well after here, I actually didn't try their coffee, but I stopped there because I wanted to take some pictures of the neighborhood. I noticed in particular this shop right next door, selling wicker bags and baskets. This shop is clearly popular with the ladies who come there to take a perfect Instagram shot...
Personally, I was more interested in the retro architecture of the brewginning coffee and the few murals that were in the vicinity.
Chinatown and Warorot market
Warorot Market happens to be located in the heart of Chiang Mai's small Chinatown. In fact, the area is like a mini shopping mall, as it's surrounded by a fruit market, Chiang Mai's flower market , and the neighboring Ton Lam Yai Market. The latter, along with Warorot, is known locally as "Kad Luang" (which can simply be translated as "big market").
Formerly, the site was a place used for the cremations of members of the Chiang Mai royal family. It was from 1910 onwards that it was developed into a market under the impetus of Princess Dara Rasmi and named Warorot in memory of her brother, Intawaroros Suriyawong , who was the 8th king of Chiang Mai.
Nowadays, it is an important market appreciated by tourists as well as locals who come to stock up on northern specialties. Indeed, this market is renowned for the sale of local products, rarer in other regions.
For example, there is the famous spicy sausage from the north (Sai Oua), another type of pork sausage, of Vietnamese origin (Moo yo), a spicy curry paste with green pepper (Nam phrik num), and I can also mention the assortments of dried fruits. In addition to local food, there are also clothes, ceramics, fabric, embroidery devices, flowers, etc.
The whole thing is organized on several floors, with, to simplify, food downstairs and clothes upstairs. After Warorot, we also went to the neighboring Ton Lam Yia market, organized in a similar way to its neighbor, you can find everything, like this small hairdresser, wedged between two shops. This brought us out on the side of the flower market, bordering the road that runs along the Ping River.
Chansom Memorial Bridge and Charoen Rajd Road
Located opposite the market, this is a pedestrian bridge connecting the Kad Luang area to the Wat Ket Karam area. A bridge existed here as early as 1892, called Khua Kula . Khua means "bridge" in the northern Thai dialect, and Kula is an old term for foreigners (what you know today as farang). The reference to foreigners is that the original bridge was built of teak wood and designed by Dr. Marion A. Cheek, a former American missionary working for the Borneo Company , a British logging company specializing in teak.
The latter was heavily damaged by a flood in 1932, forcing residents to take a ferry to cross. As this junction between these two districts was important, a bamboo bridge was later built to compensate for this shortcoming. But the latter was obviously fragile, mainly used in the dry season and requiring repairs every year. Residents could even go several years without a bridge.
The "liberation" came in 1965. That year, Chansom, the wife of a Pakistani businessman, passed away. Her husband, Montri Kosalaphirom, owned a fabric shop in the Warorot market. He financed the construction of the bridge in her memory, hence the name Chansom Memorial , but also Khua Khaek in Thai, the term "Khaek" referring to Pakistani/Indian individuals. The original bridge, having suffered too much damage following the major floods of 2011, was replaced by the current, wider, and more modern bridge in 2015.
If we didn't visit Wat Ket Karam itself, which has a museum that might be worth a look, we were mainly interested in the area surrounding the temple, which includes many nice little cafes, especially along the river.
The facades are colorful, it has charm. After with the pandemic, it is desperately deserted and half of the cafes are also closed…
You'll also come across some beautiful buildings, some of which are now part of prestigious hotels. I can mention 137 Pillars House , which included none other than the offices of the American mentioned earlier, Mr. Cheek! We didn't pass by it, but we did cross paths with the Baan Orapin Bed & Breakfast , where there's a café I've marked on my map because it has an excellent reputation.
Despite this, it wasn't the place we'd chosen for a short break, which was starting to become necessary. Continuing our journey towards the Nakhon Ping Bridge, to cross back to the other side, we passed an art gallery housed in an old building whose architectural style I'd place in the 50s. Thinking we might also find something to eat there, as is often the case in Thailand, we decided to take a look at La Luna Gallery.
Unfortunately, we quickly understood that there was no café there... But this time, due to the pandemic, there were not many people and the staff was delighted to show us the works then exhibited (and for sale...). At the crossroads before crossing the bridge, we come across another wooden house, quite imposing and on two floors.
Seeing that it was for sale, we fantasized about the price such a location, with its lovely grounds bordering the river, might fetch. It was just past the bridge that we finally settled down for that long-awaited coffee at the Rustic Boutique River . While I have no doubt it's a welcoming hotel (the reviews are quite excellent), it's not where I'd recommend enjoying a good cup of coffee (for that, I suggest Khna Coffee Brewers , next to the Baan Orapin).
The Hmong Market
Once our break was over, we headed back towards the area around Warorot Market , as we still had some places to explore. Before going there, I took a quick look at the small Chinese shrine of Kuan U ; nothing particularly impressive if you're used to this kind of place, but hey, sometimes you find surprises in temples, so why not?
It is also an opportunity to stroll through the lively shopping streets that Thailand is so good at offering us. The area is mainly occupied by vendors selling all kinds of clothing, although there are shades of indigo and patterns and colours more typical of the north.
Further along, around a bend in the alleys, lies another market, called "Trok Lao Zhou" (ตรอกเล่าโจ๊ว), offering both Chinese and Hmong products . The Hmong bring local goods and handicrafts, which are sold in the narrow streets and in a small area shared by several families.
I imagine that in normal times it's more lively, there was no one there... that didn't prevent a few moments of happiness like these two little boys enjoying their ice cream with undisguised pleasure!
Tha Pae Road
To conclude this tour, how could we not end with one of the main arteries leading to Chiang Mai, Tha Pae Road ? The road extends from the old fortified gate "Tha Pae Gate" and reaches the banks of the Ping River at Narawat Bridge, the first bridge in Chiang Mai.
There are a few old houses there , some over a century old, and even some recently renovated. It's a shame, however, that they aren't better preserved and that many of the old houses have now disappeared.
One of the most famous is the residence of Yong Chiang , a Chinese merchant who had this two-story house built in 1903. It's located at the intersection of Tha Pae and Wichayanon Road. The first time I saw it a few years ago, it looked dilapidated and more or less abandoned. Recently, it has been restored to its former glory, and it's wonderful to see such a piece of heritage preserved, as old houses disappear far too often in Thailand.
Another example of preservation is the Kitipanit Mansion . A superb two-story teakwood building, its construction dates back to 1880. It was then Chiang Mai's first general store, opened by a family of Chinese immigrants. The house still belongs to the fifth generation of descendants who arrived here at that time, and who, after neglecting the establishment for 70 years, have finally transformed the place into a charming restaurant.
Of course, if you pay attention, you'll notice other facades, though I can't name these buildings or know their origins. But for anyone interested in architecture, it's interesting to observe. And the loop will be (almost) complete upon arriving at Tha Pae Gate Square , a true symbol of the city.
For us, the day wasn't over, but it was time to take a break, and for you too! The rest will take you to the temples located just north of the city, but I'll cut that out in another article that I'll share with you soon, so as they say, stay tune!
So, what was the verdict on this walk? Well, it allowed me to see another side of Chiang Mai, other than temples, and it's a great way to soak up the city's charm. Without all the tourists, I happily rediscovered the lesser-known corners of Chiang Mai and thoroughly enjoyed this route.
