Located 25 km from the center of Chiang Mai, Khun Chang Khian is a Hmong village which is a good example of what a getaway close to the city can be: easy to access since the road was resurfaced, but with that end-of-the-world feel that we like to find off the beaten track. And yet, as the crow flies, it is only less than ten kilometers from the hustle and bustle of Chiang Mai.
Climbing to Doi Pui from Chiang Mai
Doi Pui, which rises to 1,685 m, extends the same ridge as the neighboring Doi Suthep — both part of the Doi Suthep-Pui National Park. As the route is shared, the visit is naturally combined with the Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, one of the most iconic temples in Chiang Mai.
So you can first do the visits specific to Doi Suthep, which I detail in this article, before continuing higher. Once on the road to Doi Pui, several stops are worth the detour before reaching Khun Chang Khian.
Hmong Doi Pui Village
I've never been there, because that's where the tour operators and songthaews parked in front of the temple below will take you by default, when they offer to go see a "Hmong village".
The reason is simple: this village—which doesn't really have a name other than this descriptive term—is located only 3 km from the Bhubing Palace, making it very easy to access. Conversely, the other Hmong village that interests us here, Khun Chang Khian, requires going 8 km further into the mountains, by a narrow road (even if it is now in good condition, whereas before it was a bit folkloric!).
This is precisely why I never took the time to go there: too much of a 'showcase village' for my taste, intended primarily for groups on excursions.
There's a shopping street there, somewhat in the spirit of Doi Suthep, with boutiques, restaurants, and of course, cafes. The Hmong now specialize in growing coffee, which has gradually replaced the opium once cultivated in these mountains. But the main plantation isn't really open to visitors, as it's located 3 km below the village, accessible only by a dirt road.
That said, if you have limited time and want to see an ethnic village, this is a valid option. Thais sometimes come in large numbers, especially on winter weekends, when the schoolyard used as a parking lot is full. To make the village more attractive, gardens have been created: one near the Hmong Doi Pui Family Coffee, with a beautiful view of the village, and another further back, the Doi Pui Waterfall Garden.
Even though there is generally a Christian population in these villages, there is no church here to my knowledge but there is on the other hand a temple a little away from the village, the Wat Doi Pui Wirotchanaram.
Doi Pui Viewpoint
If you choose to continue directly to Khun Chang Khian, you will come across a junction less than a kilometer after the Bhubing Palace. A sign on the left indicates the descent towards the Hmong Doi Pui Village : just turn right to continue towards Khun Chang Khian.
From here, the road becomes significantly narrower. You might think it's a one-way street, but no... So, caution is advised. As the signs indicate, remember to signal your presence before each turn by honking your horn, it will save you a few scares.
About 1 km after the junction, a small unpaved parking lot is located around a bend on the left. Here you'll see a few local vendors selling dried fruit, coffee, and even gemstones. At the end of the parking lot, there's a viewpoint overlooking the mountains and the Hmong village of Doi Pui below.
San Ku: the small ruin in the middle of the woods
Another 900 m higher, a small secondary stop that I ignored for a long time, not knowing of its existence. I finally paid a visit, curious to see what it was like. There is a small space to park in a hairpin bend, which marks the local ridge.
A sign clearly indicates the presence of this point of interest: San Ku, literally "stupa on a ridge." Walking a few meters into the forest along a clearly visible path, you will discover the ruins of an ancient Buddhist temple lost on the mountain.
This ruin consists of a modest stupa, all in brick (≈ 4 m on each side, 3 m high in its current state), and a east-facing viharn, of which only the base remains. Its construction is estimated between the 12th and 13th centuries, at the time of the Mon kingdom of HariphunchaiThis makes it a site that predates Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, which was not built until the 14th century, after the founding of Chiang Mai.
Partially covered by vegetation, the place exudes a wild charm and a somewhat timeless atmosphere. It's also a popular spot for bird watchers, whom I've already encountered here.
Doi Pui Nature Trail and Doi Hua Moo Viewpoint
Continue for another kilometer. You will see a wooden cabin, a small parking area, and some signs. This is a place that normally serves as a starting point for Doi Pui Nature Trail, a trail leading to the summit of Doi Pui and passing through the Doi Hua Moo Viewpoint.
I say "normally" because, each time I last passed, access to the path was closed by a barrier (Google Maps indicates it as temporarily closed).
When the trail is open, it allows you to do a boucle by the ridge:
- Distance: ~4,8 km (loop)
- Elevation: ~270 m
- Duration: ~1.5 to 2 hours depending on pace and season
- Level : moderate
There is a shorter alternative: continuing 600 m further, you reach a campsite, which seems so out in the middle of nowhere, but which can also serve as a starting point to reach the peak. Then count ~2,3 km round trip, or about 1 to 1.5 hours (but again, not sure if it is currently accessible).
For the more athletic, other longer variants exist in the same sector of the Doi Suthep–Pui National Park:
- Northern Ridge (R/T): ~7,1 km, more sustained, from the campsite.
- Loops & ridges (examples): ~11–13 km for the most famous loops (≈ 5,5–6 h), and other routes of 7–10 km depending on the starting point (campsite, viewpoints, etc.).
More information (maps, tracks, variants) on the reference in the field: AllTrails.
The Hmong village of Khun Chang Khian
Another 4 km further, we arrive at the village of Khun Chang Khian, at an altitude of about 1,300 m. In winter, mornings and evenings can therefore be freshThe village still lives mainly from the exploitation of café, which has become a real “black gold” in the northern mountains (I also talk about it in my article on Chiang Rai).
My ritual when I arrive is to go to the View Suai Coffee, the first cafe we come across shortly after entering. Depending on the time, I nibble on a small dish: originally, the menu was limited to three choices: rice + omelet, fried rice, or fried rice with basil (the famous pad kra pao). The couple who run the place have since slightly expanded the menu with noodle soup and a plate of vegetables.
It remains resolutely simple, no fancy decor for Instagram, roosters sitting on stakes next to the tables act as protectors of the place (against evil spirits).
Otherwise, if I don't have lunch, I just have a coffee (served with a small biscuit) while enjoying the partial view of the valley. mae rim good days clear. Little anecdote: one day, I came across it by chance the French trail team came to recognize the routes, the World's Championships to take place at Doi Pui shortly after. For the record, the women's team became world champions a few days later, and the rest have accumulated several medals.
While I consider View Suai Coffee a pioneer, it's no longer the only one today. The village retains its quiet atmosphere, but it's not unknown: in addition to the trails, I see mountain bikers passing by on their downhill runs, and thanks to word of mouth, it's no longer uncommon to come across tourists on scooters or motorbikes.
The village is slowly adapting: there are now at least five coffees spread throughout the village. On the upper part, a little before View Suai, you have a cafe with a panoramic view of the village. Next to it, a shop sells clothes and bags in local colors (it is also possible to rent for photography, Thais are generally fond of them). By the way, it is around here that you will find the small gas station if you are ever on two wheels.
Otherwise the only other coffee I have tried in this village is the Chong Wa Coffee Shop, which also serves as a grocery store. From its back terrace, the view of the village is nice. It is run by a non-Hmong Thai woman (not originally from the north either) who chose to settle here and open a small shop.
Despite a more frequent passage of visitors, Khun Chang Khian retains an appearance frozen in time: traditional Hmong wooden houses, some of which display a protection against spirits.
The Hmong are above all animists, but as in many mountain villages, there is also a Christian community: hence the Khun Chang Khian Chistian Church, near View Suai Coffee. A small church which, if it didn't have a cross on its roof, looks like a house, all sobriety. The small staircase leading there is lined with coffee trees.
My other ritual is to go to thevillage school, the Srinehru School. This allows you to cross a good part of the village and encounter local life. Most days, at the time I pass there, it is rather quiet: we mainly come across ladies from a certain age weaving, babysitting or running the small corner grocery store (even in a small village like this, there are always several).
As it is a coffee producing village, depending on the season we see drying racks covered with coffee beans in front of the houses. These Workspace, sometimes in a greenhouse, are a key step in post-harvest treatment (method known as natural ou honey, depending on the exact process).
On the way to the school, we pass a crossroads where a giant cherry tree (there is another one near Chong Wa Coffee Shop). If you have never seen one before coffee tree, a small plantation is located just opposite the square formed by the free space in the corner (spoiler: we already come across them before without always realizing it).
Under the shade of the cherry tree lies a grain grinder communal: it looks like it's from another time, but it is indeed used! If you try to manipulate it, go slowly so as not to dislodge anything. From this intersection, turn to the right leads to school.
Shortly after, we lands in the courtyard. It's quite crazy to think that while in Europe many schools have become very closed, here you can go there quietly: you will be just as well welcomed by teachers, if they are present, and by students when they are at recess.
Some days, they wear their pretty traditional dress : it's highly photogenic. Always ask for the permission before taking pictures, especially of children: refusals are rare, but respect is paramount.
Until recently, continuing on the other side of the courtyard, one came across another village café, the Fernpresso (play on words between “fern” – fern – and All espresso brewing methods). Surprising to find such an establishment in the school grounds, but it makes sense: the job of barista is popular in Thailand and this cafe was apparently run by the older students.
I say "was" because at the time of writing I'm not sure if it's still active as I can't see the marker on Google Maps anymore. To be checked on site — and if you go there, don't hesitate to let me know in the comments! It was a pretty good location, from the terrace, the view of the valley allowed a glimpse of Chiang Mai.
Right next to the school, you might come across a gentleman who offers you to shoot at a target with his Slingshot. Nothing obligatory: he doesn't insist, but if you play along, he'll ask for a small ticket. At the entrance to the village, you can also try a wooden crossbow shooting range (if the manager is there).
Still in these parts, a house stands out for its courtyard where ladies are often busy: washing and sorting by hand the coffee beans, weaving, or wire winding intended for trades.
Overall, I really like the atmosphere of this village. It retains its old soul and does not seem to give in to the pitfalls of modernity. To cite a concrete example, I came across children playing with a top or rolling on wooden karts and broken bikes: simple games, when their peers in the city are often already taped to the screens.
And it's a bit the same for adults, who go about their daily business while often still wearing traditional Hmong clothing (here more precisely Hmong Daw / “White Hmong”): indigo/black short jacket long-sleeved, embroidered borders et colorful ribbonsA rather striking contrast when you consider its proximity to the second largest city in the country!
Nature and landscapes around the village
In addition to the hikes mentioned above, there are two spots to see very close to the village to complete your visit to the area.
The Hmong Strawberry Farm
200 m before arriving at Khun Chang Khian, while the main concrete road leads to the village, a small track goes off to the left. It leads to a strawberry farm nestled in the hollow of the mountain, about 200 m away.
It's not far, but since it's downhill and the track is dirt, I'd avoid looking there in rainy season. In dry season, it's okay: you just have to pay attention to the condition of the path, which may be dig with the passage of vehicles.
In itself, nothing exceptional: a strawberry plantation on a hillside, but nicely landscaped, with floral decorations and some facilities suitable for souvenir photos. Usually, someone from the village has a small stand, where they sell dried strawberries, strawberry liqueur and, depending on the period, fresh strawberries.
Khun Chang Khian Highland Agricultural Research and Training Station: the place to see sakura
We go back slightly, 500 m from the village. Leaning against the slope of Doi Suthep-Pui, this university station serves as a training groundmountain agronomic experimentation and training (internships, practical work). Crops adapted to altitude (coffee, fruit trees, etc.) are tested there, with some areas accessible to visitors.
It is also the most famous spot in Khun Chang Khian in winter: the Himalayan cherry trees (Prunus cerasoides) and usually bloom in January (varies depending on the weather), attracting people for a short window of 1 to 2 weeks. A fleeting spectacle that had impressed me enough during my first visit that the article you are reading was originally entirely devoted to this subject. But since Doi Pui is not limited to this and remains accessible all year round, it seemed more relevant to me to expand its scope.
An anecdote, it was when I saw a man with his sign at Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, encouraging visitors to take a songthaew to come and observe this phenomenon, that I discovered the existence of this place (and the village further away at the same time).
Outside of flowering, the walk remains pleasant to see the plantations and enjoy the mountain atmosphere. We can see two zones : the first, an entrance provides access to an area that serves as a parking lot. A path along the edge of the forest leads to a pond. A path along the road leads to the second zone, 200 m further: there are research areas with greenhouses and a small cafe (simply called “Small cafe” on Google Maps) which overlooks coffee trees.
And speaking of coffee trees, when I mentioned earlier that you might come across them without realizing it, the road that winds downhill just before arriving here (in the direction of the climb towards the village) is lined with cherry trees, but also coffee trees scattered among the trees. They are the size of shrubs, with deep green leaves and, depending on the season, are covered in beans.
To know : the station depends on theChiang Mai University. Some areas may be closed occasionally (signs, barriers). Please respect the areas reserved for research.
Practical information for visiting Khun Chang Khian
How to get there
Scooter / motorcycle — The simplest and most flexible option. Since the Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, continue to climb towards Doi Pui: the road becomes narrow on the last section, with hairpin bends and blind turns (honk lightly before each hairpin bend). Although the journey is only 26 km from the center of Chiang Mai, allow ~1 hour depending on traffic (especially on the way back).
- Location : 250–400 THB/day for a 110–125 cc (depending on model/season). Helmet provided.
- Consulting : avoid nights and heavy rain; engine braking and smooth driving on descents.
- For more information on driving in Thailand, I refer you to the dedicated article: Driving in Thailand: what you need to know!
Songthaew (red shared taxi) — Two options:
- Shared up to Doi Suthep (from Old Town/Tha Phae Gate or University): Cheap, but connections are spotty.
- Private charter (from Doi Suthep or the town) to go up to the Khun Chang Khian village : count one negotiation on a case-by-case basis (more expensive in high season/sakuras). Useful if you want to chain several stops (viewpoints, San Ku, etc.).
Indicative orders of magnitude : shared intra-city → Doi Suthep often 40–80 THB/pers. ; private charter to Khun Chang Khian instead 800–1,500 THB depending on season, waiting time and requested stops.
Car — Road resurfaced to the village (work completed in 2021), but narrow remaining template on several sections: tricky crossing between vehicles, limited visibility. Reserved for drivers comfortable in the mountains.
Weather forecast & typical itinerary
- Round trip from Chiang Mai : ~1 hour drive (without stops) + your time on site; in “walk with stops” mode (viewpoint, San Ku, cafes), easily count half a day and the full day including Doi Suthep and his visits.
- Direction of visit : Doi Suthep → Doi Pui Viewpoint / San Ku → Khun Chang Khian → (agricultural station/strawberry field) → return by the same path.
Can we make a loop?
From the village, a track descends towards the Huai Tueng Thao Lake (Mae Rim), but she is unpaved and often in poor condition. Avoid on standard 110–125 cc scooters; only suitable forenduro / trail motorcycle and in dry weather. In most cases, there is no choice, we returns by the same route...
