Ko Mak: a quiet and authentic island.

Ko Mak, Eastern Provinces, Travel to Thailand

Last March, we wanted to take a few days off on an island. The idea was to find a destination not too far from Bangkok, for a question of timing, but also of cost. Initially going to go to Ko kood, we finally opted for its little neighbor to the north, Ko Mak.

I mention it in the title, what do I think constitutes an "authentic" island? Let's be clear, I don't like this term, but since it's generally the word used, then let's go for it.

Welcome to Ko Mak!

Ko Mak is a good representation of what people imagine when dreaming of islands in Thailand. beautiful sandy beaches (more or less white depending on the area of the island), turquoise water, transparent and warm, of course. If we add coconut trees on the beach, it's even better. To the question, is Ko Mak authentic, I would say yes in the sense that it remains a small island, very small even, located in a much less visited area of the country, close to Cambodia.

On the island, there are only a few small roads, traveled only by local taxis, belonging to the different hotels. These make transfers from the different docks (3 in number) to take people to their accommodation. Otherwise, travel is mainly done by scooters, or even bicycles, whether locals or tourists. And above all, no giant building (only one exceeds 3 floors on the entire island!).

It is an island that has remained calm and humble. No party areas, no buildings blocking access to the beaches, welcoming Thais, a rather simple, cool atmosphere.

And yet, it is not a desert island, there are all the amenities for a successful stay, and there are still tourists. But in any case in March, when I came, it was not the hustle and bustle and so it was perfect !

Summary hide

Getting to Ko Mak

3 days and 4 nights on Ko Mak

1st day, discovery of Ko Mak by motorbike

2nd day, snorkeling day around Ko Mak

3rd day, excursion to Ko Kradat and rest in Laem Son

Where to sleep in Ko Mak

Small warning: watch out for jellyfish

Getting to Ko Mak

It took 4h30 to drive from Bangkok to Laem Ngop pier (about 350 km). Knowing that we had to be there before 15pm, the time the boat left. Well, we knew for sure that there was one at that time.

In our case, we had to pay the payment for parking, 200 baht (for the entire duration of our stay).

Parking in Laem Ngop.

We know that it is possible to take a ferry, the journey to Ko Mak being then 3 hours. Which is a bit long, but is cheaper than the “Speed Boat” option, which we will take.

Le speedboat, reaches Ko Mak island in less than an hour (approximately 50 min), for a price of 400 baht per person, which remains very reasonable.

Arriving around 16pm on Ko Mak, this gave us time to reach our hotel (we were at Baan Ko Mak, on Ao Kao beach), which a shared taxi took us there upon arrival, and then to visit the surroundings of it and get an overview of the island.

Arrival dock at Ao Nid.

Setting of our hotel.

The room at Baan Ko Mak. Simple but sufficient.

In front of our room.

Ao Kao beach, in the southwest of the island, is the largest. It has its own pier (from where we will take the boat for the snorkeling day the next day, see below)

We walked that evening to the tip of Laem Tookkata, which faces the small island of Ko Rayang Nai. Time to observe sea urchins and small crabs while it was low tide.

I already appreciate the fact of not meeting anyone, of not seeing any buildings, but mainly trees along the beach, like this coconut tree happily sticking out and tempting me to do a bit of Tarzan on it. We watched the sunset there before going back to our hotel and having our dinner.

Moreover, concerning the latter, the tastes were very random depending on the dishes, we ate very good things and others quite bland.

It's already the end of the day.

Time for a rodeo!

3 days and 4 nights on Ko Mak

Given the size of the island, it is more than enough to go around it. Already upon arrival, we will have, as I said above, time to walk along our beach. The disadvantage is that it collects waste from the continent and Ko Kood, it is not the cleanest...

Too bad this part of the island is dirty...

So if I have to give a first piece of advice, favor Ao Suan Yai beach, in the north, for swimming. You will have absolutely clear water and a very good restaurant nearby (at the foot of the pier).

1st day, discovery of Ko Mak by motorbike

For this first full day, we decided to rent a scooter and go around the island. We took the scooter directly from our hotel for 250 bahts per day... Wrong, just in the street in front, we could get one for 200 bahts (which we did the day after tomorrow).

Very quiet little street in front of the hotel.

Let's go !

Once we have our map in hand, the objective is simple, go on all available roads. Objective which will be completed in just over half a day.

We started this day by going to the only temple on the island, located not far from the pier where we arrived the day before (Ao Nid). The place is very quiet, because there are very few monks. There is a beautiful view of the southern bay and you can see Ko Kood in the distance.

We were there primarily to make a donation. Once done and after chatting a bit with the monks and playing with the puppies present, we got back on our machine. Direction the east coast.

Within the temple grounds.

View from Ko Mak temple.

Ao Nid Pier from Ko Mak Temple.

Before reaching Laem Son Cape, we will stop not far from Baan Luang, after taking a path through a rubber plantation. In fact, the island is covered with them, and if one could think that coconut trees dominate and coconuts provide a main source of income, clearly, this is not the case and it is indeed rubber trees that dominate the entire eastern part of the island.

Passing through the rubber plantation.

View of part of Baan Lang.

Arriving towards Laem Son, the road, or rather the path, is cut. But a diversion takes us through a plantation once again. I appreciate being in the shade in addition to this feeling of total freedom.

And arriving at Laem Son, after passing 2 houses in the middle of the coconut trees, we were won over. Apart from a family swimming there, there is no one and the beach is beautiful, bordered by a row of large fir trees, with the island of Ko Kradat facing us.

It is there, in the shade of the fir trees, that you will find this little cabin, run by a woman. A cabin that serves as both a bar since you can drink various beverages there (beer included ;-), and also a restaurant). We will learn here that there is the possibility to go to the island of Ko Kradat, where there is a herd of deer roaming freely, we will therefore return to the area and go to Ko Kradat, see the article here (available in 2 weeks).

We then continued the walk by going this time to the north coast, first Ao Tann, which is only mangrove, but remains very pretty, moreover, there was a resort in this area. Further, we landed at Ao Talong, a small fishing village, but which apparently also live from the rubber trade (as evidenced by the strips drying under cover).

Next, the large bay which makes facing the small island of Ko Kham, from which we can see in the distance the new resort built on this micro island. Before that, wanting to see as much as possible while we had our means of transport, we went to the oldest house on the island (about 100 years old).

We stopped at the crossing towards the " Somchai's Artistic Kingdom", challenged by 2 statues of women, inviting the curious that we are, to go take a look. It is a completely offbeat place, around a rustic cabin all in height, there are several statues of women, most of them naked, if not dressed in a real underwear… we also see this monkey with a long limb holding a bucket… Completely wacky and "so Thai"!

As for the old house (indicated as such on our map), we won't calculate it, because we didn't imagine it like that! It is in fact a large wooden building on 2 floors, recently repainted in blue. As it was literally in the gardens of a resort, we thought it was part of the hotel in question... (the Happy Days Bungalow).

Looking for the old house…

After going around in circles looking for this house, we finally reached the main bay of Ao Suan Yai, and there it was! So here it is, this white sand beach that makes you dream! It's clean, the water is clear and turquoise. It's decided, this is where we'll come and swim at the end of the day!

View of Ao Suan Yai Bay, north of Ko Mak.

But before that, we will take our lunch break by grabbing something to nibble on from a street vendor who was there in the parking lot. Once full, we continued our visit to Ko Mak, this time heading towards the west coast, which is wilder.

We pass through the center of the island and we stopped at the Vista Lookout to admire the view, we said to ourselves that we would also gladly come back there to enjoy a coffee, but for the moment, it was not possible.

Path between Ao Suan Yai and Ao Pra.

View from Vista Lookout Point.

Towards Ao Lom.

So we continued our journey towards the west, we passed the Ao Pra passage, then continuing towards a path, interspersed with a bit of concrete, I first wanted to follow a path that led towards Ao Lom, but faced with the slope that faced me, I preferred to give up, and we were a bit lazy to go and see on foot. On the other hand, I could see from there, a view of the beach of Ao Kao, and the island of Ko Rayang Nai opposite.

View from the west coast of the island.

Further back towards the main path, we landed near the cape of Laem Tookkata, where we had arrived on foot the day before while walking from the hotel.

In Laem Tookkata.

Having completed the tour of the island, it was then just after 15pm. This gave us time to go and change at the hotel and to go quietly to Ao Suan Yai and enjoy this end of the afternoon by swimming in this beautiful bay.

Swimming at Ao Suan Yai.

Sunset on Ao Suan Yai beach.

We ended with a meal in the restaurant located at the foot of the pier, I was able to taste a delicious burger there, well yes, sometimes it's a change from rice! I made up for it the day after tomorrow by tasting a good curry this time!

2nd day, snorkeling day around Ko Mak

This 2nd day was dedicated to snorkeling. Scheduled the day before with our hotel, the full article dedicated to this day is visible here: Snorkeling in Ko Rang

We had dinner that evening at the restaurant of theIslanda Hotel, next to the Vista Lookout cafe. A good choice since you can eat well, for a reasonable price and the view to go with it!

3rd day, excursion to Ko Kradat and rest in Laem Son

For this last day in Ko Mak, Jitima wanted to go to Ko Kradat.

See the dedicated article on Ko Kradat.

Since we had to go to the other end of Ko Mak, we decided to rent a scooter again, this time from the street for 200 baht.

Then we headed to the temple first, to make a new donation (Well, originally, we mainly wanted to watch the sunrise, but having slept badly the night before, we gave up... We slept badly, because of a group of young Thais, who were a bit noisy drinking on the terrace of their room, not far from ours, it was the weekend and the Thais like to come to Ko Mak).

Before we go to Laem Son, we stopped for coffee at Vista Lookout Point, to start the day off on a high note! Then head to Laem Son, taking a slightly different path, mainly made up of sand and passing right through the middle of the coconut trees, I really love it.

To end this day, we were first going to sit down at the hotel restaurant The Cinnamon Art Resort and Spa, which also has a good reputation for offering a nice setting for taking photos.

Which is pretty true! Between the view of Ko Chang opposite, Ko Kradat on the right, this long pier that starts in the mangrove, the rather stylish hotel! We each had a drink after the photo shoot and then we decided to spend our last evening again on the bay of Ao Suan Yai.

And we were well inspired since we will attend a small show of jugglers and fire eaters (apparently coming from Cambodia, not far from there). Before our good evening meal, we sipped a cocktail while enjoying happy hour.

This concluded this perfect stay on the island of Ko Mak, a little paradise, which I hope will remain so.

The next day we returned to Bangkok, not without stopping to visit the area around Trat (article visible here)

Where to sleep in Ko Mak

Depending on your budget, the hotels mentioned in the article are all good options.

– Our hotel on Ao Kao was the Baan Ko Mak. We paid 1000 baht per night. When booking, I hesitated with the Sea Breeze, but I wanted to have a hotel on the beach. In hindsight, I think it would have been better, but it is more expensive without a promo…

– If I had to do it again, for a similar budget, I would probably stay at Ko Mak Cococape Resort, located at the end of the main bay of Ao Suan Yai (between 720 and 1200 baht per night), I had also sent my parents there afterwards and the setting was pretty (although the hotel lacked maintenance).

– If you can afford it, I would rather go for the hotel soberly called Ko Mak Resort (count 2500 baht per night in high season).

– Another option if being by the sea is not essential, know that the Vista Lookout café also has a small private resort with only 4 rooms (Thaidaho Vista Resort), between 1000 and 1500 baht per night.

Small warning: watch out for jellyfish

According to the small first aid stations located at the edge of each beach, there are sometimes jellyfish that come to swim near the beaches of Ko Mak. Read the instructions and locate the terminals, it could help in case of need (apply the vinegar provided as soon as possible on the sting, among other things!)

Don't panic though, it's not systematic and as far as we're concerned, there were no jellyfish to report during our entire stay.

When I tell you that there are still some interesting islands left in Thailand! Ready to take a little trip there?

Off the beaten track Île Sea and beaches

Roman

06/04/2015

Comments:

Géraldine
08/04/2015
This place is beautiful!
Roman
08/04/2015
Is not it ?
marc@kohchangmag.com
08/04/2015
What an incredible "post", I think it's the longest I've ever read ;).. but I admit that it's very interesting and the photos are of very good quality. It's a hell of a job and I know something about it. I live on Koh Chang all year round and I sometimes go to Koh Mak. It's an island as you describe still preserved and the big landowners of the island are smart enough not to turn it into Koh Chang bis. It's a haven of peace and I look forward to returning there in a few weeks. Good luck!
Roman
08/04/2015
Wow, thank you! So much praise! Let's just say I had a lot to say about this island that deserves to stay calm as it is. It will be even more complete when the articles (already ready and to come) on Koh Kradan and Koh Rang are online 😉
Marine
29/04/2015
Thank you so much for this article! It's just in time, I'm preparing my trip to Asia and was looking for information on this island (not very touristy, so fewer sources...)! Good luck 🙂
Roman
03/05/2015
Thank you! Glad it helps you in planning your future trip!
Calanques
10/01/2016
Congratulations for your post, very complete and pleasant to read! I arrive in Thailand for the first time at the beginning of February, I booked 3 nights on Ko Chang, I would like to go to Ko Mak and Ko Kood… I am alone, happy fifty, apart from the beach… I take photos so I will enjoy these beaches! I hope not to find the island “deserted” at this time. Good luck and thanks again!
Roman
10/01/2016
Thank you for your comment! Wishing you a pleasant stay in this beautiful corner of Thailand!
diquelou
02/04/2016
very good subject on this island that I discovered yesterday evening on France 3 (1/04/2016) in an excellent report on Thailand.
Your topic is complete, well documented and makes me want to go there next winter!!!!!
Congratulations to you
Roman
03/04/2016
Don't hesitate! Thank you!
feix
31/05/2016
Hello,
I really liked this page!!!
I would like to ask you for some advice: I am hesitating between Ko Wai and Kho Mak. In fact, I am looking for a place not too far from Bangkok for the month of August to spend a few days on my way back from Laos and before taking the plane again.
merci de votre aide
Roman
31/05/2016
Koh Mak in August is not a good idea, nor is the whole coast... but if you are going to stay close to Bangkok, Koh Samet is better than Koh Mak or Koh Wai.
emeki
29/06/2016
Hello Romain and congratulations for sharing your experiences,
Why ko mak is not a good idea in August?
We will be on this coast (to avoid the southern islands that we imagine are overcrowded) at the beginning of August, with our two kids (7 and 10 years old). We were hesitating between Koh Chang and/or Koh Samet… We like places that are not too crowded and rather quiet/natural… What do you think? Thank you.
Roman
29/06/2016
Hello,
The rainy season is more pronounced in this region, with on average twice as much rainfall as in Bangkok. Koh Samet is still a better choice.
Arthur Nuez
10/08/2016
On the other hand, on Koh Mak, plan on a little money for a scooter (around 200 baht per day) because it is the main means of transport because on Koh Mak there are many roads that are almost impassable and even I have been going to the island for around 7-8 years and I can assure you that taxis are not common.
Roman
10/08/2016
That's not wrong, after all the island remains small enough to explore on foot, especially if you have time in front of you (over several days).
The Adventure of Nails
26/01/2017
Hello Romain, thank you for this great report with photos. We will be in Koh Chang and Koh Mak in March. I learned a lot thanks to your blog. I have a little question. On the way back, we will go directly from Koh Mak to Bangkok. How much time should we allow between the departure of the speed boat in Koh Mak and the departure of the plane in Trat? Thank you for your precious help. Sylvie
Roman
26/01/2017
Hello,
I don't know what time your plane is, but from Makathanee pier, there are only 2 departures per day, at 8am and 11:30am. The crossing is 45 minutes and the airport is 30 minutes from Laem Ngop pier. So basically you need to allow at least 1h30 for the trip, 2 hours to have a margin.
The Adventure of Nails
28/01/2017
Thank you Romain for your response.
My plane is at 10am. I'm afraid it'll be just... Otherwise, the next flight is at 13pm... That's a long wait.
Once you arrive in Laem Ngop, do you quickly find a taxi or minibus that takes you to the airport? Or do you have to wait until the minibuses are full of other travelers for them to leave?
How long before take-off should I arrive at the airport?
Thank you in advance.
Roman
28/01/2017
Well, knowing that you have to be at the airport 2 hours before, that would make 11 hours, with a departure at 8 am, you should be at the airport around 10 am, that's not that much of a wait, and it's better to wait than to miss your flight and pay again...
The Adventure of Nails
28/01/2017
By the way, we have to be there 2 hours before???? So, we definitely have to take the 13pm one.
We will review our photos of Koh Mak in the meantime 😉
Thank you very much Romain, your site is very valuable ;P
Roman
28/01/2017
It's not Trat's fault, but all domestic flights! After that I don't know this airport but I think it's small so in absolute terms you'd have to be there only 1h30 before... but indeed, the 13pm flight seems to me to be the right solution in any case. Thanks for the compliment 😉
Valérie
23/03/2017
beautiful, you make me really want to go to Koh Mak! just a question: I read that, especially on the southern beaches, there are a lot of sand flies, do you confirm?
Valérie
Roman
23/03/2017
Thank you! We mostly stayed on the beaches in the north of the island and had no problems there.
Severine Bourdarel
14/04/2017
Thank you for all this information, we are preparing our trip to this island and I have two little questions to ask you.
Is the sea still as clear as in your photos? Does Koh Mak have beaches where you can snorkel and see some fish and corals? Something fairly easy to access, I'm going with 3 children.
Thank you in advance.
Séverine
Roman
15/04/2017
Hello,
Well I would say that outside of the rainy season, yes. It is possible to snorkel around the island, on a day trip. I didn't really see any coral while swimming on the main beach in the north of the island.
Michelle Chalverat
16/10/2017
Hello and thank you for all these useful indications. However you do not mention sand flies while my guide mentions them and particularly on this island. What do you think for a trip in November?
Roman
16/10/2017
Hello,
To be honest, I haven't really paid attention to it, which means from my point of view there's nothing to worry about...
Jean-Marc
09/07/2018
Hello, and thank you for your very thorough work, and also your patience with all the questions :)
I have a doubt: I had been to Koh Chang… 20 years ago (!!) and it rained especially in the evening, with great storms, and I found it great (especially since I am coming in August with three children, who are going to discover Asia and the Thai beaches for the first time, to conclude 1 weeks in Burma!!)
There, I have difficulty choosing, and in this case, it is you who helped me the most.
It is certain that you should not go to the Andaman Sea side, but to the Gulf of Siam?
ko Samet and the whole west of the gulf of siam would be less rainy than Ko Chang and Ko Mak??
but it is still much busier and noisier…
I went to Ko Tao 12 years ago, it was still too hectic (for me)...
Do you have (any more) advice?
Thanks thanks thanks !
Roman
11/07/2018
Hello,
Thank you for the compliment! Actually, during the rainy season, the East coast is much more watered in quantity of rain (in mm, because on rainy days it's the same...) than further down in the Gulf of Thailand and towards the Andaman Sea and indeed, if you had to choose in August, it's towards Samui, Phangan that you'll benefit from a little better weather.
Koh Samet remains in the same climate zone as Koh Chang so it is also well watered (and not the most beautiful island around either). The north of Koh Phangan is not hectic and should please you.
Jean-Marc Brule
12/07/2018
ok we will study all that, thank you very much!
The children are still very attracted by the story of the big storms in the evening and at night, which I told them about my stay in Koh Chang (south of Kai Bae Beach).
One of two things, either I went there a different year (98, just after the World Cup! I saw the final at Kao San Road, 4 hours after I landed…), or the rains are very concentrated in the evening and at night, a bit like in the Dry Zone in Burma…
And then, your post is really appealing, less frequented and built up than the Samui & co area, and even Koh Chang (damn, when I look closely at Google Maps, the change is incredible!! scary, even...)
thanks again
Roman
12/07/2018
It is indeed common for thunderstorms to be in the late afternoon/evening, nothing exceptional about that. You could almost have done it again and seen a final in Thailand again 20 years later 😉
If you are still leaning towards the islands to the east, note that there is also Koh Kood which is well worth a visit too.

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Ko Mak: a quiet and authentic island.

Getting to Ko Mak

3 days and 4 nights on Ko Mak

1st day, discovery of Ko Mak by motorbike

2nd day, snorkeling day around Ko Mak

3rd day, excursion to Ko Kradat and rest in Laem Son

Where to sleep in Ko Mak

Small warning: watch out for jellyfish

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Comments:

Géraldine

Marine

Calanques

diquelou

feix

emeki

Arthur Nuez

Valérie

Severine Bourdarel

Jean-Marc

Jean-Marc Brule

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