Ko Phra Tong is an island in the Phang Nga province, along the coast of the Andaman Sea. Located almost halfway between Phuket and Ranong, it is little known to the "general public", yet it is an island with unique landscapes, with its share of large deserted beaches.
Legend has it that a band of pirates hid a golden Buddha statue there, hence its name, Ko Phra Thong which can be translated as the island of the golden Buddha.
An island spared to this day by mass tourism, with little infrastructure. A few hotels, all concentrated in the same area, a main fishing village, no school (actually one, but abandoned anyway), no supermarkets and even less ATMs, it barely has a basic health center… The people here have never really recovered from the tsunami that struck in 2004.
There are three villages on the island, home to a total of 300 Moken, also known as sea gypsies (before the disaster, their population was at least 1200). Even though I'm writing about it, revealing its existence, I hope it will remain this little-known gem, preserving its unique character. Here's an account of my two days of exploration.
How to get to Ko Phra Thong
If for our part it is since Ranong, which we had just visited, whether we go to the island of Ko Phra Thong, the route will remain the same from Phuket.
Note that you will need to go to the town of Khura Buri (also spelled Kuraburi, place names are never simple in Thailand…)
Knowing that The quay is 8 km north of the cityIt's not the closest point to the island per se, but it's the main access. I mention this because, firstly, I was driving there myself, and initially, when I was scouting the area using Google Maps, I'd seen a dock on the south side of the island, very close by. However, apart from the local fishermen, it's not really possible to reach the island's beaches and hotels from there, as there's no road access.
Fortunately, seeing a sign on the right, along the main road Phet Kasem (No. 4) indicating a pier to get to Ko Phra Thong, I decided to follow it without continuing towards my pier spotted, more than 40 km away.
To understand this situation, it's important to know that the main wharf is in the north, as access to the island is located there. This is where the main fishing village is situated, essentially the only one on the island. There is no closer wharf because the area is covered in mangroves.
On site, it is best to have an arrangement with a hotel booked in advance that will take care of the boat transfer. As it is private, it is not cheap, normally 2000 ฿ round trip. Allow just over 1 hour for the crossing to reach Ko Phra Thong.
You will then travel along the mangrove, admiring the mountains in the background on one side, and the island of Ko Ra, an almost deserted island 11 km long which is, it seems, a superb wildlife reserve (if you are interested, there is a place to sleep there, the Ko Ra Eco Lodge although apparently a bit expensive for the service that goes with it).
From Ranong
Departures every hour from 9:00am to 21:45pm, cost ฿100, should take 3 hours.
From Phuket
Departures every hour from 7:00am to 18:00pm, cost ฿160, should also take 3 hours.
From Khao Lak
In our case, this was our destination following our stay in Ko Phra Thong. Khao Lak is one of the most likely destinations to be your starting point for the island, if you then go back up to Ranong and want to continue your journey to Bangkok.
Departures every hour from 7:00am to 18:00pm, cost ฿85, journey time: 1 hours via buses to/from Phuket.
From Bangkok
It is possible to go directly to Khuri Buri from Bangkok via South Terminal (Southern Bus Terminal). It is via the Lignite company, with a departure at 19:05 p.m. and arrival at 5:25 a.m. (i.e. 10h20 journey, at night) for a cost of 715 ฿ or 954 ฿ depending on the type of bus.
There are also buses departing from Mo Chit station in the north of Bangkok. You have several choices:
- In 1st class express (usually VIP bus) for a cost of 492 ฿, with departures at 12:00, 13:40, 17:40, 18:15 and 19:15, allow 11 hours of travel.
- 2nd class (local bus) for a cost of 380 Baht, departures at 11:30, 14:00, 15:40, 17:30 and 19:15, the journey takes 14 hours.
Walk on the main beaches
In short, understanding the island's layout is quite simple: the west side consists of long stretches of beach, while the east side, where you arrive, is mostly mudflats and mangroves. The whole island is essentially made up of two parts, as a channel runs its entire length, effectively dividing it into two sections (similar to Ko Lanta).
Welcome to Mr. Chuoi's
We arrived via the main village, in the northeast of the island, a fishing village called Thapayoi. Its inhabitants are mostly Moken. It's the closest access point to the Khuri Buri pier, where we arrived. Our host, Mr. Chuoi himself, came to greet us, having arranged for us to arrive by boat (using an acquaintance).
By the time we arrived from Ranong, after a few morning visits, waited for our transport, and finally got there, it was already past 14 PM when we landed on Ko Phra Tong, our feet in the water, and within minutes, I was already captivated. The tide was low, so it wasn't possible to dock at the pier, and we were greeted on the island with our feet in the mud. The rest of the journey was in his old, rickety 4x4.
Taking advantage of the good weather, we sat in the back seats (outside the vehicle) to reach our cabins from Thapayoi. It still took a good twenty minutes along a path that was mostly concrete and then sandy for the last few hundred meters.
It's worth noting that Mr. Chuoi is a local legend, having survived the tsunami by clinging to a tree. He and his partner rebuilt his entire accommodation complex themselves, creating 20 bungalows of varying sizes that can accommodate couples like us, as well as families and groups.
After settling into our bungalow, we headed to the nearest beach, some 300 meters away. The tide was low, the space vast and deserted. The slightly wispy blue sky completed this idyllic scene as we began our stroll along the beaches.
An incredible feeling of freedom
It's the kind of moment when you really feel good in nature. A real walk along the beach without meeting anyone or almost. Because this little paradise attracts a little bit anyway, we met some French people there in the evening.
After walking a little over 300 meters along the beach facing the islet of Ko Rang Nok, we reached a point where we then crossed to the neighboring beach. There, opposite this point, lies the islet of Ko Pho Ta.
Here lies a small rocky hill, dotted with spirit houses; in itself, nothing surprising, we are in Thailand. But their significance here dates back to the famous 2004 tsunami, when someone is said to have survived by climbing onto this promontory and clinging to the trees—you guessed it, Mr. Chuoi himself!
In front of us, a stretch of sand, lined with pine trees, also deserted. This is where you will find the Moken Eco Village, one of the main hotels on the island, which I also mention below in the "where to sleep" section. As we can see the end of this second beach, all in a crescent shape, we continue on our way. Knowing all the same that with its curvature, it is a little over a km long.
Shells and hermit crabs
On the sand, there are some beautiful seashells and quite a few playful hermit crabs, playing hide-and-seek as soon as you get too close. You then come across a local and his dog, the owner of the NOK Bar & Restaurant, still undergoing preparations before its seasonal opening. Reaching the end, the same scenario unfolds: there's a small rocky point, but also a path through scattered coconut palms to reach the next beach.
This is where the Golden Buddha Resort is located, named after the island's main beach, which also gives the island its name. This hotel is also mentioned further down in the list of places to stay. We had planned to have dinner there, having arrived late in the afternoon, and still hadn't eaten since that morning, but it wasn't open yet…
Before us stretches the longest beach on the island, over 10 km of uninterrupted sand! So we call it a day and turn back. We hope to find a place to stop for lunch while admiring the sunset, which is sure to be imminent.
Looking for a restaurant
After stopping to play with the dog at the NOK Bar, we tried our luck at the Horizon Eco Resort. Although the hotel itself had just opened, as we saw a family there, the beachfront restaurant service was not yet operational and only offered drinks.
Despite being hungry and having walked for over two hours, we figured a refreshing break wouldn't hurt. After this impromptu fifteen-minute pause, we decided to continue back to our bungalow, figuring that even if it wasn't right on the beach, we could always eat there.
It was with the setting sun just before 18 p.m. that we returned to the height of Moken Village. Seeing people in the area, we tried our luck and Bingo! The restaurant is open!
Goal achieved, what better way to end this beautiful day and stroll on the island, with a romantic dinner on the beach, against a backdrop of twilight.
Return at nightfall
As an aside, the return journey was somewhat "epic." We hadn't considered one small detail: since our daytime walk, the tide had risen! Returning inland didn't seem like a particularly viable option, as we weren't sure if a path would lead back to Mr. Chuoi's house, not to mention that it would have taken us through private property (the Moken Resort, in short).
So, just like on the way there, along the beach, we decided on the spur of the moment to return to our bungalow. And there was quite a difference in elevation, since the beach was practically gone! Just a strip of sand lapped by the waves crashing against the trees. For a few meters, it wasn't a big deal since we only got our feet wet.
But very quickly, we encountered a slight problem. We hadn't really noticed the outlet of a canal flowing into the sea, cutting the end of our beach in two. At low tide, we walked on the sand where a trickle of water flowed. There, the water rose up to the mouth of the canal.
Initially hesitant, I didn't want to turn back without really knowing where to go. Armed with our mobile phones as torches, we had to get wetter than expected to reach our hut because to cross this canal, the water was waist-deep (especially for Jitima who is smaller than me).
Back in our "domain", we came across Mr. Chuoi's pet, not one of his dogs, nor his chickens, but a doe! Not at all shy and which let itself be approached without flinching.
The abandoned village and a small safari on the island
At the start of our second day, the weather is already more mixed than yesterday. We can see some blue sky, but it's much cloudier. The tide is still high, but it shouldn't be a problem for reaching the Moken Eco Village again.
Satisfied with our dinner the night before, we decided to settle in for breakfast. However, the weather quickly changed, and just minutes after our arrival, it started pouring. This was really inconvenient, as there's not much to do on an island like this in such conditions.
Knowing that we had originally planned to take a walk on the island today, inland this time, to go and see an abandoned village and the island's "savannah". And we were going to be "stuck" at the Moken restaurant for more than 4 hours... Which meant that we also had lunch there, while we were at it.
At least it was forced rest, in peace.
Baan Lion: the abandoned Moken village
So yes, this subtitle can be confusing but I am talking about the Mokens, the people of the seas and no longer about the Moken, the resort. Once the weather became milder, we left our cocoon to join our other cocoon, that of our bungalow. It is already almost 15 p.m. There is still a little time to visit.
My initial idea, true to form, was to rent a small motorbike and explore the island on our own. Except, well, it's Ko Phra Thong… So no rental agencies and not really any motorbikes.
At first helpful and accommodating, Mr. Chuoi tries to find me a vehicle and if an acquaintance has a small motorbike, the latter is not too keen despite the state of his machine, to leave it in the hands of a stranger (LOL).
He then offered to take us on the tours in question with his old 4x4, for a fee of course (300 B / person for a 2-hour tour). I remained understanding that he had to have a bite to eat and our host knew how to sell himself by explaining that knowing the island well, he would be able to take us to the photogenic and interesting spots directly (I'm talking especially about the walk in the local "savannah").
Time to get ready and at 17pm we took off on the concrete and sand runway leading to the north of the island, heading to the village of Baan Lion just 5 min drive.
With the visit to the savannah the next day, this was one of the places I wanted to see while staying in Ko Phra Thong. The name of this village comes from the charity that funded it, which is called Lions Club. Faced with the power of the tsunami, the Moken village that adjoined the sea on this part of the island was completely razed. The Lions Club therefore rebuilt a "modern" village, set back from the sea, comprising a hundred houses on stilts, electricity and a school, to get local life back on its feet and help its inhabitants turn the page on the disaster.
Unfortunately, life is no longer the same, and many have chosen to leave, moving to the mainland in search of work. Today, only six families remain. The school, lacking students, finally closed a few years ago.
Baan Lion is therefore a bit of a ghost village, abandoned. The empty houses are surrounded by vegetation. We are surprised to see these few locals who, having nowhere to go, organize themselves around what remains of this village.
For example, you'll find a small supermarket, a local handyman who repairs motorcycles, and also, more surprisingly, a kind of small maritime museum. This last one is the work of an NGO whose objective is to monitor and help protect the local environment and wildlife, particularly turtles. Naucrates, its name, has offices in this very village.
The feeling while walking around there is, all in all, quite strange. Even though it was over a decade ago, we're still witnessing a consequence of the tragedy that changed the world for so many families that year. The emptiness I felt walking through the deserted classrooms, their blackboards now covered in messages (sometimes obscene and stupid, unfortunately…), was barely dispelled by the smiles of the few children still present among the remaining families.
These children overflowing with joy contrasted quite a bit with the sadness of the place. However, I find this visit pleasant, because it is a facet of the island. It is a way of doing a "courtesy" visit, of not forgetting its inhabitants, its guardians of the island who are and remain the descendants of the peoples of the seas today so rare.
Time to walk around, chat a little with the people at the supermarket while buying a little snack on the way and we left the village after 40 minutes.
The round trip for this visit took us just an hour. We returned to the bungalow just before dusk. That evening, we finally got to try our host's cooking, as we were too lazy to go back to the Moken Eco Lodge and just wanted a change of pace.
In safari mode in Thailand
It's our departure day. And yet, we still have one more visit, and a significant one at that: the local savannah. Ko Phra Thong is indeed known for its landscape reminiscent of the African savannah, with the added bonus of sand.
And it was still with Mr. Chuoi that we obviously made this last visit. The idea being to stop there on the way, taking us back to the main village to take the boat back to Khuri Buri.
So it was with our luggage that we set off, sitting in the back of the 4x4 with its tired shock absorbers. In safari mode, as in the title. And very quickly we left the concrete path, barely wider than a single car, to plunge onto a white sand track.
We then drove for a few minutes through a vast meadow, dotted with shrubs and here and there with trees with whitish trunks. We made our first stop in the shade of one of these trees. The trunk resembled a twisted rag, the bark peeling like skin. Our host then briefed us on the Ko Phra Thong savannah, explaining that it is home to a unique flora, some examples of which he showed us shortly afterward.
This is done at the next stop, by a pond. On the water, we see leaves resembling common water lilies, but the small flower that accompanies them is, in fact, unique.
The third spot is definitely the most beautiful. In the middle of these white-barked trees, we are near a pond, the ground covered with fine grass, creating a lovely effect. Hanging from the trees, Mr. Chuoi shows us unique little wild orchids; on the ground, a type of small carnivorous plant (I can't make out if it's a Drosera spatulata or burmannii).
Basically, as you've probably gathered, everything here is in "mini" versions. The place is very photogenic and really gives me the feeling, at that moment, of being somewhere other than Thailand.
Unfortunately, our boat was about to dock and we had to go to the village of Thapayoi. But before getting back on board and going to the parking lot where the car was waiting for us, we took a few minutes to walk around the village, soaking up the morning atmosphere.
The tide being high, it was from a quay this time that we left the island with the same boat as on the way there. It is with a smile on my lips and already a bit nostalgic that I observe the houses on stilts and other floating ones, as we move away from the island.
Where to sleep in Ko Phra Thong
It's worth noting that, as the island is largely untouched by tourism, the options are limited and, even more so, dependent on the seasons. Hotels on the island only open during the winter months, generally from November 1st to April 30th. The rest of the year, it's still possible to stay there through our hotel selection (see below), but as it will be the rainy season, it won't be easy to fully appreciate the island if it's raining, since activities will be limited.
Also note that most hotels are geared towards a mid-range budget clientele, so this should be taken into account.
Other hotel suggestions in Ko Phra Thong
There are a few more options on site other than those mentioned here, especially for those on a budget there is the Horizon Nature Resort. But as the island is limited in choice and can fill up quickly, it is still better to book in advance, if only to benefit from transport from the mainland.
That's why I'm offering you some hotels that can be found on online booking platforms, which, as you may already know, allow me to earn a commission (without changing the rate for you). It's a way for you to indirectly help me continue the blog and always an appreciable gesture.
Horizon Eco Resort
Located at the far end of the beach where the Moken Eco Village is situated, this small resort offers fairly simple bungalows at very reasonable prices. It also has its own bar and restaurant, making it convenient to stay put.
Sea Rounding
If you are looking for a bit of comfort, you will have more robust bungalows on stilts at Sea RoundingLocated behind Mr. Chuoi, along a canal leading to the adjacent beach. The price remains reasonable. from 43 €, they also have comfortable tents on the beach from €34.
The Moken Eco Village
One of the most famous on the island, and the most upscale, the Moken Eco Village refers to the nomadic sea people who still inhabit this island. From €45 per nightIt's a standard bungalow, though cozier than in other hotels. For a significantly more comfortable bungalow, prices start at €69. In both cases, the service, particularly the food, is superior.
In fact, we had dinner at their restaurant on our first night, which was their annual opening day! We also went back for lunch the following day. From what I understand, there's a minimum two-night stay required.
BABA Ecolodge
Le BABA Ecolodge (formerly Golden Buddha Beach Resort) is somewhat the "star" of the island. At least the most upscale and therefore also the most expensive. I don't know if they still require a minimum stay of 3 nights.
This same hotel, run by a French speaker (at least at the time), was featured in a report on Thailand (on the travel program "Échappées Belles"). Described as a true little paradise in harmony with nature, it was not yet open when we visited.
In summary: what to do on Ko Phra Thong
Walk along the beaches: long strip of sand almost all to yourself.
Snorkeling: The seabed that we didn't get to enjoy is less beautiful compared to other islands, but it remains a viable option.
Discovery of the savannah: the main attraction of the island, essential in my opinion! With Mr. Chuoi, possibility of a 2-hour visit (300 ฿/person) or even a day (package of 1500 ฿/person).
Canoe: Mr. Chuoi has canoes. Expect to pay 300 ฿/day.
Quads: not always available but if they are there, it's 400 ฿/hour at Mr. Chuoi's always.
In bulk: It's an island to relax on, ideal for a bit of reading, a walk along the water, watching hermit crabs, making sandcastles (there's no age limit for that 😉 ) and, if the weather permits, sunbathing.
After that, it's not possible from Ko Phra Thong itself, but note that the Surin islands are off the coast of it, 50 km away.
Conclusion
This is the kind of article that always seems a bit "delicate" to me. Because even though I don't claim to be a "major influencer" for Thailand (and even less so for Asia), I, combined with others, could transform the destiny of this island by shining too much light on it.
Locally, the temptation to build ever more must be resisted, and the island must retain its "Robinson Crusoe" spirit and tranquility. Following the 2004 tsunami, the island was virtually abandoned, but there were already seven hotels in 2014; there are reportedly at least nine today in 2019.
Even though everyone wants to be eco-responsible and makes the effort to blend in, it remains vital not to follow the path of other popular islands like Ko Phi Phi etc.
Personally, it's a real favorite, because it demonstrates once again that even in Thailand, and thankfully, there are still places like this preserved from mass tourism and offering a fantastic setting.
Ko Phra Thong is a perfect haven of peace for a short break of 2 or 3 days. Walking alone on large beautiful beaches always remains an incredible feeling of freedom.
So, would you like a little dose of paradise?
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13 Comments
Hello Romain,
I've been reading your blog for a while now, looking for inspiration for my upcoming trip to Thailand. I already visited the "Land of Smiles" in 2017 and had the chance to see the must-see sights. This time, I'm on the lookout for great ideas for "off-the-beaten-path" excursions, and I find your articles very inspiring!
Thank you for sharing your experiences and discoveries!
A little practical information for those who wish to go to this island: while looking for practical information, I found comments from people who went there this year and it seems that there is now a boat crossing service twice a day, in the morning and in the afternoon from the Kuraburi pier and which is much cheaper than the private transfer organized by the hotels, about 200 baht/person.
Thanks again for your articles!
Thank you for your message and the little update, have a nice stay!
Hello and thank you Romain for this post!
You have already helped us recently by responding very quickly to one of our questions.
It's really "Cool" to realize that there are still people like you!
Sincerely.
Thank you !
Patrick,
I didn't miss anything, especially not a "couche" (sunset, sunrise). It's exceptional to surf the Web before nightfall.
Perfection is not of this world, to aim for it is to escape the deadly mediocrity that surrounds us, it is to prefer gastronomy to media fast food, of which certainly more than eighty percent of readers do not pay attention to the details, they do not even read the text and skim over the images... Who has seen the dog and (massa9e), the blue salaeng..., who has wondered about these curious orchids whose leaves have a central vein (orchids normally have parallel veins)?
I like pages that are polished, that show that they have been stripped of their raw material and not delivered in bulk as has become the norm on the Internet.
It is in the attention to detail that the craftsman, the artist, distinguishes himself from the day laborer. As Boileau so aptly puts it:
“Make haste slowly, and without losing courage,
Vingt fois sur le métier remettez votre ouvrage,
Polissez-le without cessation, et le repolissez,
Add sometimes, and erase often. »
This site is very pleasant, the style is friendly and the photos are of high quality, I was a teacher, but it is above all the professional deformation of the work of a proofreader in printing, then in digital publishing which made me react.
Friendly.
It's incredible you publish a document with Ko Phra Thong! And you persist in calling it in Globish Koh!
Thai place names must be written in RTGS… and ???? is Ko
First of all hello,
Of course, there is an official transliteration system, however, and I added a sentence to clarify this, the latter, even on a national scale, in official bodies, is far from being respected. However, from a French-speaking point of view, I have always seen and mostly used Koh rather than Ko. Finally and above all, do you really believe that it interferes with reading the article and that the average reader will be upset by it?
The average reader is not bothered by this. Nor is the undemanding editor. It bothers me and some of my friends.
Just because uneducated people, uncultured officials and Anglo-Saxons (who despise local cultures) write Koh instead of Ko, Nakhorm instead of Nakhon, does not mean that these usages are correct.
It is true that this is a detail in an amateur typography...
Some examples that the former professional noted...
"ABOUT" is "ABOUT"
"Armed with our cell phones" is "Armed with our cell phones"
“drosera spatulata” is “Drosera spatulata”
"By force" is "By force"
"B" is "?" for baht
“alone.es” is “alone·e·s” (and the midpoint is important for Google)
"Mr.Chuoi" is in English "Mr Chuoi" in French "M. Chuoi"
"already 7 hotels" is also incorrect, numbers less than ten are written in letters...
... / ...
I think it's a shame for a very nice site. A lack of finishing touches that would raise it to the "pro" level...
Don't think that I make these kinds of remarks to the rags that are published on the Internet about Thailand, whose spelling and typography are not the only faults...
cordially
Hello,
I understand your point of view, after you say it yourself, you call yourself a professional (former teacher?), so it tickles you more and you are more able to point out the mistakes. I would even say that you are a bit fussy. I note details like the midpoint, the number in letters. I suppose that more than 80% of readers do not pay attention to it.
I remain inexcusable, I grant you that, however, it should be noted that I am alone in managing the site which in itself requires a lot of time. The time for proofreading and correction is therefore more than truncated... Not to mention that if I make an effort, the spelling and it's a bit "I love you, I love you not".
However, I took your advice into account and changed all the Koh to Ko, not without a certain hint of "bitterness" given how I had gotten used to it 😉
For the A, as it is capital, at the time, I often forget to type all the keys to obtain the A, a question of speed at the time of writing...
As for the Mr, at the base, it was to keep the reference to the name of his establishment, which is indeed written with the Mr, and in my head, I considered Mister in the friendly sense, even if there you are going to tell me that we certainly do not mix anglicisms in the language of Molière.
But in summary, since these criticisms are, in fact, accompanied by a compliment that I do not omit, I thank you warmly.
Sincerely,
Roman
Dear Kanchanana, if perfection is rarely of this world, it is very sad that by wasting so much time correcting these tiny mistakes in French, you missed the magnificent sunset on this heavenly beach so lovingly described by Romain.
Sincerely.
Patrick
Thank you for this beautiful answer!
You hope that this island remains as it is without the tourist damage I hope so too.
I don't know if you know the pirate Blackbeard (Teatcher was his real name) he died on Okracoke Island in North Carolina USA the first time I went there it was a wonderful little English-style village there was just enough tourism for the island but the tourist machine went and put a big hotel there and there you have it, total destruction of the island and its history it is this kind of quiet place that I am looking for it may seem selfish but it is the pleasure of discovering and preserving.
Hello,
I know Blackbeard but I didn't know his story, but I'm not surprised by what you say, some places get a sudden popularity and the authenticity of the places remains weakened. In a different case, it is following the inscription on the UNESCO heritage that George Town, on the island of Penang in Malaysia, is changing in contempt of the locals...