We no longer present Ko Samui, the 2nd largest island in Thailand, which still attracts as many visitors year after year. My first visit was in 2007, and in 7 years now, I have been able to see its evolution.
So does its typical postcard setting with coconut trees and white sand still live up to its reputation?
Much like my recent experience with Phuket , the island has the advantage of being large, thus offering diverse atmospheres depending on where you are. Furthermore, even though it's crowded, you don't necessarily end up bumping into people, which is a good thing.
But what has changed in 7 years?
Well unfortunately like any highly touristic place, we build, and in some places, we have really concreted a lot. So much so that some pieces of beach, or entire beaches are inaccessible, because privatized or access is blocked by the presence of a hotel or a restaurant in front and that to find a public access, you really have to look…
This is the scourge of Thailand, the price of success is transformed into a frenzy of satisfying demand, even if it means disfiguring the landscape (in the same vein of not very glorious history, an airport is going to be built on the neighboring island of Ko Phangan, does it really need it?).
A resort here, a resort there, restaurants galore but also homes, shops. We can draw a parallel with this small fishing village that was Pattaya, only 50 years ago…
Deserted beaches in Ko Samui still possible?
Well surprisingly yes, it will obviously depend on the season and time of year of stay, but during my last visit to the island, I was the first to be surprised to see that the beaches are not necessarily all stormed.
Chaweng and Lamai, on the west coast, are the most popular, but if you go further south towards the beaches of Hua Thanon and Laem Set you will then have an idyllic setting without too many people.
On the way between Lamai and Hua Thanon, you can take a look at the local curiosity, the Hin Ta and Hin Yai rocks , which literally mean "grandfather rock" and "grandmother rock." Why "grand"? I don't know, but father and mother, well, the shapes of the rocks are quite explicit... be careful with children as these are X-rated rocks 😉
My favorite beach is located just after the rocks, Hua Thanon , a small beach with a Seychelles feel and a parking lot where surprisingly, few people actually stop.
The beaches at the very south of Ko Samui, towards the fishing village of Bang Kao , are also deserted by tourists, although admittedly, it is not the best for swimming, as it is used as a starting point precisely by fishermen and a few private excursion boats.
Beaches in the west and north of Ko Samui
I don't personally know the beaches west of Samui, which is why they're rather neglected. The reasons are that they're less easily accessible and, supposedly, not as good for swimming, but Ao Phang Ka and Hat Taling Ngam might be worth a visit. But the fact remains, there are still unspoiled places on Ko Samui.
As for the northern beaches, those near the airport, they have the advantage of having more or less retained their "village" feel, even though Bophut now has many guesthouses and therefore many tourists. But there are no large resorts, and Bophut remains known for its restaurants and its somewhat more relaxed atmosphere.
Not far from there are 2 popular attractions on the island, the Big Buddha of Wat Phra Yai , from where you can witness superb sunsets and the amazing temple of Wat Plai Laem with its large 18-armed statue of the Chinese deity, Guanyin, the "goddess" of compassion and mercy.
The neighboring beach in Bophut, Mae Nam, is also a beautiful large calm beach and still allows you to discover a "postcard" Ko Samui in 2014.
The center of the island also remains, thankfully, mainly filled with coconut trees; there are also a few hotels, such as the Wazzah Resort Bungalows where I stayed some time ago.
Otherwise, it's all about nature , coconut trees galore, waterfalls and viewpoints, and incidentally the golf course, which offers a sublime view over a whole part of the island.
Finally, it is still possible to find local markets on Ko Samui, an opportunity to stroll around with the family and taste typical dishes cheaply.
Conclusion
I would say that Samui retains its charm ; what saves the island is its size, offering enough unspoiled space to maintain that "postcard" feel. It's certainly a very touristy place, but outside of peak season (between December and February and July/August) you can still enjoy a bit more peace and quiet, especially outside of Chaweng (the equivalent of Patong in Phuket).
They even managed to stop the craze for full moon derivatives that were also becoming trendy on the island by keeping only the original on Ko Phangan.
It remains a useful gateway to the neighboring island of Ko Phangan or to go diving on Ko Tao. From Samui, it's also easy to reach the Ang Thong archipelago , which also offers some beautiful spots.
Have you been to Ko Samui recently? How was it? Crowded? Nice? Meh? I'm interested in hearing about your experience!
