Six years ago, I first set foot in Yangon — still called Rangoon by French speakers, or Rangoon by English speakers. And in a country like Burma, six years is a long time. A very long time.
Because since then, the country has changed a lot. After decades of closed military rule, Burma has timidly opened up to the world. And Yangon, the former capital, was one of the first reflections of this. Not everything is settled yet, but in daily life, the evolution is palpable. This somewhat unique article offers you a glimpse of this city, still marked by its past but which seems to be rapidly turning towards the future.
A leap in time
The impression it gives me is as if in the space of these 2-3 years, Burma (still officially “Myanmar” as a reminder) has gone from the 60s to the 2010s… a real shock.
Gone are the days of quiet, deserted streets and old telephones placed on tables as makeshift phone booths… now, like in any big city, there are traffic jams , generally heavy traffic and cars everywhere, everyone is already addicted to smartphones and high-tech shops are flourishing…
While I can't fault a country for modernizing, I couldn't help but feel that it's all happening too quickly. I didn't recognize the peaceful atmosphere I'd enjoyed the first time.
Everything has changed. Even English, once widely used, with locals able to approach you easily because they liked to see and chat with the rare foreigners who ventured into their area at the time... Surprisingly, during this stay, even in the hotel environment, it was difficult to come across someone with even a basic understanding... As if the paradox of opening up to the world made them refocus on their native language (it's not so much a criticism in itself, but yes, it creates a paradox).
Even the currency. The dollar used to reign supreme, and the country was known for its high standards of currency. Not anymore; the national currency is now the only one used, with very few exceptions.
It builds, it moves
On the other hand, the city is more vibrant than ever. Once, it literally lived on a shadow of its former self. Many buildings were dilapidated, with plants and trees growing on many facades.
In 2014, brand new buildings are being built, repainted, renovated. Many of the sidewalks were apparently recent and the city is teeming with life everywhere. There are even "department stores", although we are still far from the excitement of Thailand.
It is a stay filled with memories and a certain nostalgia.
Even though we'd been there before, we ended up going back to the same places. Botahtaung Pagoda and Shwedagon Pagoda were the main attractions. But it was also an opportunity to wander a bit more around the old city. This difference from the Yangon I knew gave it a completely different feel.
I bitterly regretted at the time not having been able to enjoy it for longer, convinced at the time that I would return soon... This was almost the case, but the trip was then aborted at the last moment, due to insufficient budget...
Have you been to this city before this "boom"? I am interested in your opinions on the sudden evolution of Yangon (and the country in general)
