Lampang: between old charm and tranquility on the road to Chiang Mai

Lampang is a city in northern Thailand., often visited on the way to Chiang Mai or even Chiang Rai. Nestled in the basin where the Wang River flows peacefully, 100 km southeast of Chiang Mai (and some 600 km from the capital, Bangkok), Lampang was a prosperous city just over 100 years ago, when the teak wood trade was in full swing.

Wood is not its only source of income, as the city was also famous for its ceramics and more recently for its coal mine. Lampang is considered above all as a place to visit resolutely more cultural than for its nature, where there are certainly green mountains, but which do not have as much charm as those further north.

However, there are some absolutely unique temples there, the most famous of which is the Wat Phra That Lampang Luang, which skillfully combines the Lanna architecture and Burmese influence. But the idea here is to show you what is possible to see in the city itself, which is largely overshadowed by Chiang Mai despite its undeniable charm.

Like a breath of old

In the old town, there is a special and peaceful atmosphere. The horse-drawn carriages circulating around are part of it. Even the songthaews, these particular taxis using pick-ups as public transport are part of the decor, here, they have as in each city their own little color specific to Lampang, in yellow and green or also in blue.

Lampang is known for having a large number of ancient buildings, teak wooden houses, remains of this Lampang's glorious past, although it remains today a fairly large city in northern Thailand (60 inhabitants).

The beauty of Lampang station

We will also note the Lampang train station, considered as one of the most beautiful in Thailand. A mixture of European architecture (German-Art Nouveau to be precise) and Lanna whose exceptional conservation has been recognized by an association of architects under royal patronage.

Like any train station in Thailand, the atmosphere is special with an air of yesteryear. At the time of my visit, a train was arriving at the station, allowing us to see the sweep of whistles and flags of the agents.

Job Sao Nak

Baan Sao Nak, which means the house with multiple pillars (Nak being the word pillar, but in the local dialect). The name is simply due to the fact that this large teak wood building is built on stilts, which remains classic for constructions of this type in Thailand. But its particularity comes from the fact that due to its size, no less than 116 pillars are needed to support it!

Job Sao Nak can be visited for an entrance fee of 50 baht, which includes a tea tasting (well, you have to like it because it has a particular taste…) and biscuits.

Built in 1895 by a wealthy merchant of Burmese origin Mong Chan Ong and his wife) in a style mixing Lanna and Burmese architecture (the terrace in front in particular), this residence is still the property of the Mong Chan Ong descendants.

Eager to preserve their heritage, they began major renovations in 1964 to replace and solidify the famous pillars. It took 10 years to complete this restoration work, then they had the idea of ​​​​showing it to share this heritage with everyone. Inside, you will find photos of family members from various periods as well as many antique objects and furniture.

As an anecdote, the large tree in front to the right of the house, which is called a Saraphi, is older than the house itself and is over 130 years old.

Next to the house, you have a small souvenir shop and refreshment stands with drinks. In the garden, there is another wooden building on 24 stilts. This is an old rice warehouse. It dates from the same period as the house, but is not the original one, which was removed and replaced by this one, in better condition. Note the horse-drawn carriage stored underneath even though it is not considered a garage.

For tea tasting and small cakes, it is under the house among the pillars that you will be served by the owner herself.

The Louis T. Leonowens House

Not far from there and well hidden, you can if you feel like it see the Louis T. Leonowens House. If this name rings a bell (you never know), it's because he was the son of Anna Leonowens, who was the tutor and English teacher for the many children of the King of Siam, King Mongkut (Rama IV I remind you) between 1862 and 1867.

If that doesn't ring a bell, watch the movie Anna and the King, starring Jodie Foster as Anna. Note that this 1999 film, based on a 1944 novel and based on Anna's memoirs, is banned in Thailand because it is fictionalized. The story involves a relative romance between Anna Leonowens and King Rama IV in the film, when the relationship remained purely professional to the authorities.

Old Market Street: Talad Gao (Kad Kong Ta)

Old Market Street is a bit like an open-air museum. Also known as Kad Kong Ta, it is located next to the Wang River in the heart of Lampang. It was a bit like the old business district of Lampang, also known as Thanon Talad Gao (ถนนตลาดเก่า) which therefore means, old market.

In this case, it was known as the Chinese market, in the early 19th century, when businessmen from Thailand, China, Myanmar, and even the United Kingdom came to do business, especially in logging. Along this artery, one can come across a good number of old wooden houses, but also solid structures. Starting with the Ratchada Bridge.

At the very end of the artery, you will find this arched bridge dating from 1894 (hence the fact that it is not very wide). Simply nicknamed the white bridge, it is hard to believe that it was at the time the longest bridge in Thailand with its 120 m crossing the Wang River, which runs along Talad Gao behind (as a reminder, the first bridge in Bangkok, the Memorial Bridge and its green steel structure crossing the Chao Phraya, only dates from 1932).

It is next to you can taste the best Khao Soy that I have been able to try to date. Khao Soy is a typical northern dish made with rice noodles, a yellow curry (a little spicy, but normally it's okay) and a chicken thigh.

Another point regarding the Lampang old town. This one also seems to be getting into the fashion of " street art.", murals that add a "fun" dimension if you want to find them all. Knowing that I don't know how many there are to date, but I have only been around Talad Gao (Old Street Market), where I was able to spot a few.

The old buildings of Talad Gao

The most famous of these ancient buildings is the Moung Ngwe Zin Building, owned by a former Burmese who worked for the British in the forestry industry. This house of 1908 whose main structure is made of teak wood, has a balcony and typical Burmese architecture (and probably influenced by the British). Its white facade with exposed beams contrasts particularly with the usual style of houses in Thailand.

It is very photogenic and therefore hides the house opposite, the Kanchanawong family house. Here again, a rich Burmese merchant is at the origin. The architecture recalls the Sino-Portuguese style and the houses on the streets of Georgetown in Penang or Phuket town, the main town of the eponymous island.

Dating from 1905, it is a mix of Chinese and Burmese style, with its balcony decorated with floral patterns. The neighboring house is of a similar style but more sober.

Further on, you can see another 2-storey house dating from 1918, Baan Mae Daeng, soberly renovated and not transformed into a hotel or restaurant, this building has beautiful wood carvings under the eaves and on the balcony. Opposite are 2 beautiful Thai-style wooden houses on stilts and another slightly set back, larger, more Western-style. Next door, another wooden building that is not ugly.

A few meters further you will pass another 2-storey building dating from 1913, Yean Si Tai Li Ki Building (also spelled Yan See Tai Lee Kee). This time built by a wealthy Chinese merchant using this building as a large business. It is therefore a Chinese style with a mixture of baroque elements, the roof and doors are beautifully engraved even if poorly maintained. For the record, this building now belongs to two different owners, so the painting of the exterior wall separates the place into two different colors.

If you continue to the entrance of Wat Ko Wasukaram temple, you will see on the corner an imposing house enthroned at the bottom of a beautiful garden, Baan Komsom. Built in 1917, this house was built by a Chinese construction company while the architect was foreign.

Finally, if you go to the end of Talad Gao Street, you will first pass in front of the art center, housed in a wooden house on stilts in the Thai style, then you will find yourself facing the Fong Li Building. Renovated and now converted into a café and hostel, The Prink, it would almost seem insignificant in the sense of being less old given its remarkable condition. However, this 2-story building, whose upper-floor terrace is covered with wooden panels with shutters, is one of the oldest in Lampang since its construction began in 1891.