Phu Chi Fah: a sunrise above the clouds

Chiang Rai, Phu Chi Fah, Northern Provinces, Travel to Thailand

If you're a morning person, or simply ready to get up at the crack of dawn to admire a magnificent natural spectacleThen Phu Chi Fah is a great option.

Northern Thailand is full of mountains and viewpoints, but not all of them are easily accessible. One of the advantages of Phu Chi Fah, it is enough to have one short walk about 700 meters from the parking lot to reach the summit (admittedly, uphill, but nothing insurmountable).

Summary hide

1. A popular attraction in winter

2. How to get to Phu Chi Fah?

3. Experience the sunrise at Phu Chi Fah

4. Where to stay in Phu Chi Fah?

5. Best time to visit Phu Chi Fah

A popular attraction in winter

Like all the mountains in the region, Phu Chi Fah is particularly popular between November and February, period corresponding to theThai winter.

Why is this period ideal?

✔️ The air is more frais and sought after by city dwellers.
✔️ The view is more clear than in the warm season.
✔️ The famous sea of clouds, which often covers the valley at sunrise, is more frequent.

zen in phu chi fah province of chiang rai

Zen at Phu Chi Fah.

A site that is a victim of its own success

The downside is that the Phu Chi Fah attracts more and more visitors, especially Thai people and amateur photographers, of which I am one... If you want to avoid the crowds, it is advisable to favor a visit during the week and excluding public holidays.

But don't worry: as soon as the sun rises, the majority of tourists quickly go back down. To 7h30, there are often only a few photographers left, and the place quickly regains its calm.

How to get to Phu Chi Fah?

If you would like to see the sunrise at Phu Chi Fah, the ideal is to arrive the day before and sleep there to avoid a long night departure from Chiang Rai.

By car or scooter: the best option

Rent your own vehicle remains the most effective way handy to get there, especially if you want to enjoy scenic roads and multiply the stops along the way (like me who stops every 10 minutes to take photos and illustrate this article). Besides, The journey alone is worth the detour.

Getting to Phu Chi Fah doesn't necessarily have to be a goal in itself, especially if it's just to see the sea of clouds. Especially since there are other peaks along this mountain range with equally exceptional views in the surrounding area, such as Phu Chi Dao or the Doi pha tang which can be easily visited immediately.

landscape long road leading to phu chi fah

The road itself is a real experience, crossing isolated villages and offering magnificent views on this region, the easternmost of the Chiang Rai province.

I loved walking this road in the late afternoon: the colors, the feeling of being alone in the world, and of course, this incredible setting.

Phu Chi Fah is located approximately 100 km from Chiang Rai (allow 1 hours for the journey), but the route may vary depending on which path you take.

The shortest and most efficient route

Rather than following the route often suggested by GPS (via the 1020 and the 1155), the quickest way is to take the 1421. This road cuts directly through the countryside and joins the 1155 by climbing via the 4018. Not only do you save 30 km, but the 1421 is now a beautiful dual carriageway all the way, making the journey smoother and more enjoyable.

The route via the 1020 and the 1155 (sometimes recommended by GPS)

If you follow the "classic" route, you'll take Route 1020, which detours south before joining Route 1155 past the small town of Thoeng. This option is a bit longer, but still worthwhile for those who want to enjoy more varied scenery along the way.

valley between Chiang Rai and Phu Chi Fah mountains

villages visible mountainside phu chi fah province of chiang rai

mountain landscape near Phu Chi Fah Chiang Rai

winding road phu chi fah chiang rai province

crossing village near phu chi fah province of chiang rai

In both cases, the 1155 is a scenic road offering superb viewpoints before arriving at the village of Phu Chi Fah.

Please note:

The roads are beautiful, with many viewpoints to admire the scenery.
Road conditions have improved for several years, but be careful on certain sections because the slopes are particularly steep.
plan enough gasoline, because there is few stations on the mountain section.

My advice :

If you are comfortable with driving (see the conditions for driving in Thailand), rent a car (safer) remains the best choice to be flexible and enjoy the ride, which is an experience in itself. When I say scooter, consider a big engine, or even a motorcycle if you can because given the roads and the distance, it's much more recommended.

By bus or public transport: feasible, but less practical

If you do not wish to rent a vehicle, options exist, but they ask more time and organization.

1️⃣ Bus from Chiang Rai :

In high season (November-February), there are direct minibuses from the bus station Chiang Rai to the village of Phu Chi Fah.
Departures between 7:15 p.m. and 13 p.m..
Price: around 100 Baht.

2️⃣ Bus to Thoeng + local transport (out of season) :

Take a bus to Thoeng (about 30 Baht).
From there, it is necessary find a tuk-tuk or a pickup truck to climb to Phu Chi Fah (⚠️ count around 700 Baht for 50 km, therefore not very profitable alone).
It is sometimes possible to share a pickup with other travelers or negotiate with a local for a more economical journey.

Access to Phu Chi Fah: important update

Since my first visit, access to the summit has changed. It's no longer possible to drive up to the final parking lot in your own vehicle. You must take a shared pickup truck from among those that operate along the road that runs alongside the village.

How does it work?

✔️ Notify your guesthouse in advance of the time you wish to leave.
✔️ A pickup truck will come and pick you up to take you to the starting point.
✔️ Fixed price :

30 Baht per person one way
30 Baht for return

parking at the foot of the path leading to Phu Chi Fah

Parking with a line of pick-ups.

This mandatory transportation system has become established over the years, a trend that's increasingly common at certain tourist sites in Thailand. It's no longer really a surprise, but it's still annoying, especially when each new restriction becomes an opportunity to charge a little more...

However, it seems that this restriction only concerns sunrise. During the day, the parking lot probably remains accessible freely, because the problem of excess numbers no longer arises. This is also the first reason of the implementation of this rolling system with the pick-ups.

Experience the sunrise at Phu Chi Fah

Getting up early isn't really my thing... except when it's for a mountain sunrise. Then the motivation is completely different. It's barely 5 a.m. when I leave my bungalow, still half asleep.

The very first time, I was able to drive up to the parking lot by myself, but the process remains the same with the new system: you just have to wait for the pickup, booked the day before.

The climb in total darkness.

After a short journey in the dark in the back of the pickup truck, we finally arrive at the starting point. There is still 700 meters to climbIn the parking lot, the stalls are lined up, mainly run by the women of the village, mainly from the Hmong ethnic groupYou can find a bit of everything there: souvenirs, instant coffees to wake you up a bit, and instant noodles to give you strength.

If necessary, we also offer you flashlights (100 baht each), very useful for seeing where you are putting your feet when going up. The climb is not long, but at this time of day, and in total darkness, you have to motivate yourself. The hyper-early morning atmosphere, combined with the freshness and fog, gives a special dimension to this short climb.

Note that some days the fog does not lift, this is something to take into account.

Once at the top, you still have to find a good spotThe summit of Phu Chi Fah rises before me, a steep cliff plunging towards Laos, and above all… a crowd already well established, if you are there on a weekend.

The first time, I admit I was a little lost at first. As a reminder, it was still completely dark, and not knowing the layout of the place, I didn't really know where to stand to admire the spectacle. I first tried to go to the top, where I stayed for a few minutes, before realizing that the place wasn't really suitable for me, too oppressive with the crowd around.

dewy sunrise at phu chi fah

I then spot a small patch of land below, where a few photographers have already set up their tripods. I settle down quietly and wait for the sun to rise.

The next times, I knew where to go and I managed to position myself directly at the top, around the marker indicating the altitude of Phu Chi Fah: 1 m. In all cases, It is better to arrive early to get a good position.

At the top of Phu Chi Fah.

The wait begins. The air is fresh, all we hear are whispers and the light wind whistling through the tall grass. Then, around 6:30 a.m., an hour after my ascent, the show gradually begins. An orange halo gradually illuminates the horizon, and within minutes, the sun gently emerges from a sea of clouds.

This is exactly what I came looking for: this very special landscape, where the peaks seem to float above an ocean of mistThe devices crackle, some let out a "wow" of admiration, others simply savor the moment.

Meow Gallery: The justified layout is not available in this version.

As mentioned above, the majority of visitors do their "Instagram" session quickly and start going back down at 7:30 a.m. To give you a clear idea, I'm posting two photos, one at 7:15 a.m. and the other at 8:00 a.m., practically from the same spot, the difference is obvious!

crowd long ridge phu chi fah province of chiang rai

empty ridge phu chi fah province of chiang rai

This is the time to enjoy the atmosphere a little, hanging around, following the ridge on the surrounding trails. You can also see the valley from the Thai side if the weather clears.

The atmosphere has completely changed: now that there are only a few photographers and a few die-hard dreamers, you can really feel the serenity of the place. I find it hard to leave, because even though I'm almost alone, it feels good here.

I take my time before going back down. After all, it's for these moments that I get up at dawn. On the way there it's still a little early, and since it's dark, we won't really see them, but on the way back to the parking lot, you'll come across several children in traditional Hmong clothing, singing to collect some coins.

Most of them are very young, girls between 4 and 8 years old, and honestly, it's a phenomenon that always leaves me a little perplexed. It's hard not to be annoyed by the idea that their parents are pushing them to scrape together a few pennies rather than simply enjoy their childhood weekend. I don't know if they're also around during the week, but in any case, it's a well-established ritual here.

girls in traditional Hmong clothing at Phu Chi Fah

girls in traditional Hmong Phu Chi Fah clothing

Where to stay in Phu Chi Fah?

To take full advantage of the Sunrise, spend the night there is the best option. It avoids a late-night departure from Chiang Rai, and above all, it allows you to arrive at the summit at least somewhat rested.

The first time, I had spotted some hotels in advance, but once there, I preferred trust my instinct and stop me in a small resort perched on the hill, just before sunset. The place didn't really have an official name at that time because it had just opened. It is now listed on Google Maps as Phuchifa Resort.

The place was simple but decent, and at 400 Baht a night it was unbeatable, especially with that mountain view from my balcony.

Since then, accommodation has multiplied. Several small resorts and bungalows have sprung up like mushrooms in recent years, some of which offer fully-equipped tents.

From the entrance to the main area, we find about ten guesthouses clustered on the hill. As such, it is not really a village, although there are a few shops and restaurants along the road, but it is more of a housing area than a proper village.

The “real” village of Phu Chi Fah is slightly set back, 5 km away, with also some accommodation options like the Man Fah Hill (ม่านฟ้าฮิลล์ ภูชี้ฟ้า). In the main area you have the Long Huk Kao Phu Chi Fa or Happy Camp Phuchifa. Moving a little further away, there is the U Krit Farm Hill Resort (อุกฤษฟาร์มฮิลล์ ภูชี้ฟ้า), which is the cheapest I could find in the area (700 baht).

Small bonus : The sunset from the village can also be very nice, with golden light on the surrounding mountains. A nice appetizer before the morning show.

Rates and booking: the downside of success

With the success of Phu Chi Fah, accommodation has moved upmarket, and the prices followed…

En high season, average rates are around 1 – 500 Baht (€2 to €000).
Off season, there are more options around 30 €.

The other problem is that few establishments are available on Agoda or Booking. The only ones listed are roughly those mentioned above. Most are booked via Facebook, the preferred means of communication for Thais.

This is explained by the fact that few foreigners come here on their own. The majority visit Phu Chi Fah as part of an organized excursion from Chiang Rai.

If you prefer a turnkey day trip, here is a convenient option:

⚠️ On weekends, it is better to book in advance.. During the week, we can try to find on site, but it's a little by chance.

My latest test? A resort with tents, Phutawancamp Phuchifa, booked directly via their Facebook page (and luckily, they can communicate in English in this specific case).

tents at the phutawancamp phuchifa resort

Best time to visit Phu Chi Fah

Phu Chi Fah is accessible all year round, but not all seasons are equal. The ideal time to make the most of it is clearly winter, between November and February.

This is when you will have the best chances to observe the famous sea of clouds, which often covers the valley at sunrise. The air is fresher, visibility clearer, and the mountains still retain their greenery after the rainy season.

November – February: the best period

Cool and pleasant temperatures (bring a jacket, especially in the morning).
Frequent sea of clouds (especially in December-January).
Vegetation still very green after the rainy season.

March – May: the hot season, not ideal

Drier landscape, the grass turns yellow.
Heat haze and pollution from burning reduces visibility.
Less chance of having a beautiful sea of clouds.
Only asset : this is the flowering period of Thai sakuras in this region.

road lined with sakuras Phu Chi Fah mist heat March

sakura flowers in Phu Chi Fah mist heat March

June – October: the rainy season

Rain can be frequent, especially in September and October, making the ground slippery.
Clearer view possible after a downpour, but more random.
In the advantages, very green and lush landscape, perfect for those who love nature in its wildest state.

+ If you can choose, December and January remain the perfect months, with the best balance between freshness, clear skies and the spectacle of the sea of clouds.

– Avoid September and October, the two wettest months in the north of the country.

mountain landscape in phu chi fah northern thailand

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So, Phu Chi Fah or Phu Chi Fah not?

Activities and Adventures Heart-stopper Mountain Point of view Hiking

Roman

02/06/2016

Comments:

Bozonnet
22/07/2017
Hello and thank you Romain for your precious blog.
We are in Mae Salong and we are planning a sunrise at Phu Chi Fa in the next few days with the children.
Do you think it's worth it at this time of year? It's been raining quite a bit since we arrived in the North and there's also a lot of fog...thank you and good luck
Guillaume
Roman
22/07/2017
Hello,
In this season it could be overcast and there will be no sea of clouds…. After the mountain is beautiful in this corner, you can also admire the view at Doi pha tang not far from there if you have the possibility.
Steph
22/02/2018
Hi, your photos are very nice and congratulations for your blog! I am leaving tomorrow from Chiang Mai to Phayao and from Phayao to Chiang Kong. I would like to take road 1093, the one that is closest to Laos. For the first time I will not be on a motorbike, but with a small rental Toyota… Do you think we can drive on this road? I am not talking about the 1055, but rather road 1093 which looks very steep… Thanks in advance for your answer
Steph
Roman
22/02/2018
Hello,
Thanks for the compliment! This road is quite passable by car, I took it several times going from Phu Chi Fah to Chiang Khong. I don't know the lower part between Phayao and Phu Chi Fah so it must logically be of the same ilk. It's a road that is superb in any case, redone on certain portions, you have to have good brakes and on the descent, go really slowly and in 1st because the slope is steep indeed.
Louise
01/04/2020
Hello,
Your blog is a wealth of information, thank you!
I would like to go to Phu Chi Fah from Chiang Kong by bus. Can you tell me if there is one? How long is the journey and how much does it cost?
Thanks in advance!
Louise
Roman
01/04/2020
Hello,
As far as I know there should be 3 songthaews (shared taxi pick-ups) leaving Chiang Khong at 7:30, 8:30 and 12:30 respectively. The journey takes about 2 hours and costs around 100 Baht (if shared), depending on demand, it might be necessary to privatize… I don't know where they get them from but logically it should be at the Chiang Khong Local Bus Station.

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Phu Chi Fah: a sunrise above the clouds

A popular attraction in winter

A site that is a victim of its own success