Osaka Express: Visit the essentials of the Kansai capital in two days

We’re coming to the end of our stay in Japan, with a return to where it all began: Osaka, the bustling capital of Kansai. Renowned for its iconic castle and lively Dotonbori district, Osaka is a city where modernity and tradition blend harmoniously. The third largest city in Japan (after Tokyo and Yokohama), Osaka is also renowned for its culinary scene and relaxed atmosphere. Here’s the story of our two half-days spent discovering its must-see attractions.

First steps in Osaka

It was early afternoon when we landed in Osaka. Our first steps in the city consisted of going to our hotel, just to drop off our suitcases. As mentioned above, this was a super easy task since the latter (see bottom of the article) was barely 200 m from the Ōsaka-Uehommachi station, where we arrived.

The problem is that it is not yet 14h, so check-in not yet possible… As such, one could simply leave the luggage and go exploring straight away. But since it was time to eat, we thought we might as well find something nearby, just to taste the local gastronomy, which is quite famous, and to do the check-in in the process. 

As we were in a more "economic" area, with offices and all that, the restaurant options were quite limited. After some hesitation, we stopped at a small local restaurant, just after a store. (Joy Fit 24) and adjoining a shop (Yahoo mobile). Most of the dishes were in the 6-7€ range, there was no one there when we were there, but it worked just fine.

In the area of ​​our hotel.

There was no name in English but that's how it was inside if that helps... (since you can't see anything from the outside...)

Visit to Osaka Castle

So he is 15h already when we leave the hotel to go to our first visit of the day, Osaka Castle. Time flies, so let's get to the point. We board the metro at the station Tanimachi 9-chome, 600 m from our hotel. We only had two stations to reach the closest to the castle, the station Tanimachiyonchome, all while taking the line Tanimachi (you can also get off at the next station, Temmabashi, to reach the northern entrance of the park surrounding the castle). Simple and efficient. Another 800 m walk and we were at the Otemon gate, the southwest entrance to the park surrounding Osaka Castle.

Towards the Otemon Gate of Osaka Castle.

One of the remaining guard towers around the wall.

History of Osaka Castle

We are at the height of a guard tower, a photogenic spot since we can admire the imposing rampart and the moat surrounding the keep. These are the only elements (almost) of origin, namely beginning from the 17th century. In fact, the construction of the castle and its famous dungeon (called tenshu in Japanese) was started in 1583 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, on the site of an ancient temple, moreover destroyed by his rival at the time, Oda Nobunaga. For the record, it is precisely on the model of Oda Castle. (the castle ofAzuchi), built just a few years before, which is the base of the Osaka one.

Construction was completed in 1598, the same year that the instigator died, and the castle passed to his son. It was then the largest Japanese castle of the time, consisting of eight floors in total. (five based on a stone base, above ground, but hiding three underground floors). The castle is built to be the center of power of the shogunate of the family toyotomi. And as you might expect, Japan's tumultuous history has not spared the site. Destroyed by fire following the siege of Osaka in 1615, where the powerful family Tokugawa seizes power (starting the Tokugawa shogunate which would last more than 200 years), the castle and its keep were rebuilt from 1620.

Depiction of the siege of Osaka in 1615.

Tokugawa Hidetada, 2nd shogun of the clan Tokugawa, rebuilt the tenshsu, and orders the reconstruction of the walls. This brings us back to my remark about the "almost" original elements, since these are the ramparts that still exist today, made up of large blocks of stone placed side by side, without mortar. Unfortunately, the "poor" tenshu would only last another 45 years, as it went up in smoke after being struck by lightning in 1665. The capital of Tokugawa being at Edo (Tokyo), the site will not be rebuilt subsequently.

In the 19th century, when the castle was already in poor condition after years of neglect and lack of maintenance, a large part of the buildings were destroyed during the fighting during the period known as the Meiji Restoration (ending the Tokugawa shogunate to restore the power of the Emperors, the shogunate being considered a kind of feudal military dictatorship).

It was not until 1928 that Osaka City Hall launched a reconstruction, but with modern techniques, favoring reinforced concrete over the granite that originally made up the keep. As Japan was hit hard by bombing during World War II (at that time, the castle site was occupied by the military, making it a prime target), Osaka Castle took a beating… Its last major renovation took place between 1995 and 1997, so it is ultimately a recent dungeon, but one with an interesting history, that we are visiting today.

Admire the view of Osaka from the keep

Let's get back to our sheep, here we are in the park surrounding the famous dungeon. We arrive at the level of the inner gate called "sakura", while we pass a second moat surrounding the keep. We then come across one of the castle's megaliths, the ramparts being composed of large blocks of rock, some reaching dimensions that make us ask the simple question "how did it get there!!??"  

Here we are facing Taiko-ishi or " octopus stone", the octopus stone, yes, because we even give them little names (its name is derived from the octopus shape visible in its lower corner left). This one counts among one of the largest megaliths in the castle with a face measuring 5,5 by 11,7 metres and weighing 130 tonnes! We had just passed another one at the door level Otemon and there is another one at the entrance Kyobashi-guchi (North-West corner of the park surrounding the castle).

The “taikoshi” megalith.

As we approach the castle, we pass a department store, Miraiza, which includes souvenir shops and restaurants, itself shaped like a castle, but which stands out in style from the one we facing… These were apparently premises used by the military in the 30s-40s. As we didn't have much time, we didn't linger too much in the surroundings of the park, so I missed a nice photo spot at the small Japanese garden located on the left. It's a beautiful spring day, although overcast. There are people, but not a big crowd. (we came specially after the flowering of the sakuras) and some are content with the park (which covers six hectares), there is no queue to enter the dungeon that day.

Possible view from the Japanese Garden. Photo by Newell Kenji.

The Miraiza store in the castle courtyard.

A samurai artist.

The floors each form an exhibition detailing the history of Osaka and especially concerning the era of the castle's builder, Toyotomi Hideyoshi. In short, the interior of the keep makes up the Osaka-jô Museum (free for children under 15, 600 yen per adult) and has a large collection of over 10 objects (weapons, armor and everyday objects from the castle). The highlight of the visit is the panoramic view of the city that can be had from the eighth floor.

Time to do some shopping in the souvenir shop, cleverly arranged when you go back down the dungeon, and it was time to continue our visits. Without realizing it, we had spent two hours in total in Osaka Castle, the time to come out at the northwest corner, to then join the subway at Temmabashi station, direction Dotonbori.

The museum inside the dungeon.

A view of Osaka from the top of the keep.

One last look.

A short stroll through the Dōtonbori district

Originally, we had planned to stop at Nakanoshima Park (the first public park opened by Osaka as a city, in 1891), located between the Dōjima and Tosabori rivers. It is known for its rose garden and its building built in a neoclassical style, the Osaka City Central Public Hall. Since we were arriving in the late afternoon, with the sun setting soon, we took the subway line Keihan then Midosuji to arrive at Osaka-Namba station, a stone's throw from Dotonbori. This passage in the subway, rather crowded at this time, makes me smile to think that people live underground as the street seemed calm up above.

Moreover, one of the restaurants at Samba station, upon arrival, was full and typical, since there are no seats but just a counter where people have a small meal, just hidden by a sort of curtain, a Japanese-style fast food in short.

An empty street in Osaka.

Meanwhile, in the subway.

Let's eat

Before diving in, we took advantage of the proximity of a Don Quijote, this well-known chain of catch-all stores in Japan (a kind of " fairground search » local, if we can make the comparison…) and we came out with a few bits and pieces. Speaking of which, along Dotonbori, you have another branch of this store that you can't miss since there is a big wheel (the Ebisu Tower ferris wheel) right on the front.

This district, which spreads around a canal of the same name, Dōtonbori, between the bridge Dōtonbori and the bridge Nipponbashi, has become a tourist must-see in Osaka. Its name is also taken from a local entrepreneur, Dōton Yasui, who began the enlargement of the small river running from east to west, which went from east to west, hoping to stimulate trade in the region, and this in the 17th century. Interrupted by the siege of Osaka, the character of its banks would come under the Tokugawa shogunate transforming Dōtonbori into an entertainment street of Osaka, then in full urban planning.

For a long time it was a red light district of Osaka and a place to go out with its many traditional theaters. (all gone). Today, it is its abundance of restaurants, shops and its many illuminated signs that attract people like butterflies.

Along Mido Suji Street, approaching Dotonbori.

The entrance of a Don Quixote, with its mascot, the penguin.

The best known of its brands and certainly that of the confectioner Ezaki Glyco, which represents a runner crossing the finish line. It has been present in one form or another in Dotonbori since 1935. The brand is also well known in Thailand, particularly for its stick biscuits resembling mikados, called here pocky. It is obviously an excellent spot to taste the renowned local gastronomy. Osaka regional cuisine includingokonomiyaki, which we tested in Nara, the takoyaki, which are octopus balls,udon (a noodle dish) or even a host of regional sushi.

Among the recognizable restaurants, we can mention the Kinryu Ramen, with its golden dragon on the front (there are 3 branches different), Kani Doraku and his giant mechanical crab (6,5 m) whose specialty or even the Zubora-ya, a fugu restaurant (fish with deadly poison if poorly prepared) with a huge lantern in the shape of…. Well, of course, it's a runaway. One of the oldest restaurants still present is the Hariju, specializing in beef (only Japanese of course).

Glico Man!

As we wandered around the area, we passed the shopping street Shinsaibashi-Suji Shopping Street, which is covered. This is where we would stop for dinner, taking a break from Japanese food. (as we were arriving at the end of our stay) and we were testing an American chain Shakey's Team Building (Yes I know, boo the bad guys… For the record, this branch has since closed its doors permanently, so la don't look for it if ever). After the alley, we found ourselves in small back streets where you see lots of small restaurants and places to have a good evening with friends (understand, alcoholic).

There are already people returning along the canal and it contrasts quite a bit with the still very calm atmosphere of our arrival. The street comes alive and lights up and the boats parade on the canal to offer visitors a different view of the vibrant district of Osaka. For our part, we took a tour to admire the facades of the restaurants and especially a few stops in shops to buy stocks of local sweets and it was time for us to end this day by returning to our hotel.

Before.

Afterwards. The difference in atmosphere is obvious.

Along Shinsaibashi Alley.

On a small back street in Dotonbori.

The Ferris wheel of the other Don Quixote of Dotonbori.

The cookie shop.

Small flea market in Shin-Osaka (Osaka Charity Flea Market)

Jitima wanted to go to a flea market during this trip to Osaka. And if there are several in the city, then some among the largest in Japan (as the Nanko DIY Basket Market), we were heading towards ce that morning to the small market next to the station Shin Osaka. The reason being firstly that it was a Saturday, the day when the market is held, but also because the profits go to a charity for the disabled.

And although a small flea market, this place is full of great deals. From old records, to bags, clothes (including kimonos) and other possible finds, there may be some nuggets for you. In our case, we fell for an old Canon film camera (a Canonet first version from 1961 if I'm not mistaken, given the look, it's not a QL17 or QL19) which was sold to us for the equivalent of 500 Baht (About 15 €). The latter is apparently still in working order although I have not yet had the opportunity to test it.

Overall view of the park at Shin-Osaka Station.

Umeda Sky Building: incredible view of Osaka

Our next and final visit was the iconic skyscraper Umeda Sky Building, a glass and steel structure dominating northern Osaka. It has a particular look, a little retro futuristic. An ambitious project for what was to be the heart of Shin Umeda City, a new urban center northwest of Osaka Station. At the time of its construction, completed in 1993, it was clearly an avant-garde building, with its atypical assembly of two separate towers, later joined at their top by a raised platform over 170 m high, built separately on the ground. Designed by Hiroshi Hara, the Japanese architect who also designed Kyoto Station, theUmeda Sky Building continues, more than 20 years after its opening, to attract tourists.

Its attraction lies, besides its unique architecture, in the 360° view offered at the level of its "floating" observatory, in the shape of a ring, at 173 meters high. To get there from Shin-Osaka, it was direct via a train arriving at Osaka station, located not far from the tower. In doing so, we passed through one of the "legendary" department stores of this district, the Hankyu Department Store.

Opened in 1929, it was the first to offer a department store concept (originally comprising 8 floors) associated with a station, in this case, that ofHankyu Umeda, on top of which the building was constructed. Although the station has since been moved just a little further up, the store has remained, undergoing many transformations from the 30s to the 80s before undergoing a major renovation in 2012.

In Hankyu Department Store.

It is at the foot of Hankyu Department Store, while facing the big red wheel located in this district, we witnessed a rather funny scene, visitors dressed as characters from the Mario Bros universe, taking a tour of the city in a kart!

Seeing this, I say "shit", that's what I should have done!" . Good after with Jitima It wouldn't have been possible, because she does have her license, but hey, driving it is not really his cup of tea… However, if you are interested, you can book here: Visit Osaka by kart*

An original visit!

To reach the foot of the Umeda Sky Building, we struggled a bit since the area is under redevelopment (it was used until 2014 as a train depot/maintenance area, or something like that). We finally found the path between the Grand Front Osaka tower, next to the station to the Umeda Sky Building, avoiding going around the construction site. But it took us a good 20 minutes in the end to get there from Osaka station.

And there, Jitima appreciating markets, she was served since there was one in progress, coupled with an event that we did not necessarily expect here, theAloha Summer Festival. We lingered to watch a Tahitian dance before taking the elevator and climbing to the 35th floor. This is where you have to buy tickets to go higher, to the “floating gardens”, a name that remains surprising since there are no plants…

The “floating garden” platform seen from below.

And to reach the platform, it is better not to be afraid of heights, since you have to take un escalator, above the void! The latter being suspended between the two towers, the experience is quite astonishing, even if the space is closed, the windows surrounding us allow us to fully appreciate the climb to the top. 

As an aside, there is another much taller tower in Osaka that also offers a panoramic view of the city: Abeno Harukas. Located next to Tennoji Station, just 2 km from our hotel, it is currently the tallest tower in Japan (300 m).

To return to our current view, we find ourselves on this ring suspended at 173 m. We then dominate the entire city, in a district located in the north of Osaka. Despite the slightly overcast sky, this does not detract from the charm of the 360 ​​degree view offered by these “floating gardens”.

In the escalator.

With on one side, a group of large towers clustered around Osaka Station. One of them is also famous, not for its size (only 16 floors), nor even for its helipad at the top (rather ordinary, let's say). No, the reason? Oh, just a highway slip road that runs right through the middle.

Tower Crime scene (current owner, as it is still known by its former name, the Gate Tower) is, in fact, crossed by a road built between the fifth and seventh floors. This rather absurd situation is due to the relentlessness of the owners who did not want to "abandon" their plot of land, wanting to redevelop it in the 80s, when the road project had just been approved. (In 1983). It took five long years of negotiations with the motorway company hanshin, to agree.

And the tower was completed in 1992, with this compromise… To enable this architectural feat, first of all, the agreement stipulates that the motorway company is the tenant of the floors occupied by the infrastructure. Finally, the highway is obviously not in direct contact with the building (there would be too many vibrations differently). She then crosses it by a bridge, held in place by supports on each side of the tower. The road is also surrounded by a structure that serves both to protect the building, but also against noise and vibrations.

Another building below stands out in this group of towers, with a somewhat "old-fashioned" design, halfway between a castle and a sort of cathedral. As I'm curious, I looked up what it was, it's a hotel if you know what it is. interested, it's the Monterey Osaka (double rooms are around €80-130 depending on promo, which is quite interesting for this area, you can book here on Booking*).

Overall view of the southeastern part of the Umeda Sky Building.

If we zoom in a little bit. The hotel I'm talking about (the Monterey) is at the bottom left.

If we zoom in again, here is the TKP tower and its highway ramp.

On the other side, we see the whole series of bridges crossing the Yodo River (Yodo-gawa), and the urbanization of Osaka and its surroundings, seemingly endless. If not for the series of mountains that can be seen in the distance, an area known for its many golf courses. It is there behind these mountains that the sun sets, making the skyscraper particularly popular for admiring this privileged moment.

The river also flows into Osaka Bay, which can be seen clearly from this height, you can even make out the Akashi Bridge, connecting Awaji Island to Honshū Island (the one where Osaka is located). After a good series of photos, zooming in, zooming out, observing the surroundings by going around twice, we had been on the platform of the Umeda Sky Building for 20 minutes, and it was time to go back down, because we had a plane to catch...

On the way to the 39th floor, you will have cafes and restaurants with an equally nice view and if ever, there are of course souvenir shops. Back down, the rest of the day was pretty ordinary, because we were leaving by plane that day.

North side, view of the mountains.

View towards Osaka Bay, west of the tower (with Awaji Island in the distance).

Cafe on the 39th floor.

Passing through Osaka Station and end of the trip to Japan

So we were going to go back to our hotel to pick up our luggage and make the trip to Osaka Kansai Airport. Before that, we went back to the department store located at Osaka Station to get lost in the twists and turns of this large complex, just to go and eat a bite.

After searching for a while without inspiration for what we wanted, despite a wide choice of restaurants, we had difficulty deciding. And if the day before, we fell for a pizza, this time, it was a creperie… No, we are beyond redemption... We quickly made up for it once at the airport by enjoying a nice little one. Windows, while it was already dinner time when we were waiting for our plane. And it was on this gastronomic note that we ended this first stay in Japan.

Returning to Osaka Station.

The Grand Front Osaka, a building I talked about in this article if you read everything carefully!

A little thought for the fans.

Goodbye Osaka and see you next time? Probably…

Getting to Osaka from Nara

There is only a mountain separating the historical city of nara where we were coming from to go to Osaka. 30 km to travel by train. Despite a fairly short distance, allow around an hour for the journey.

If at the outward journey from Kyoto we arrived at JR Nara Station, we left from the other train station in Nara, Kintetsu-Nara Station. So, if on the way there, we had little to travel between the station and our hotel, we had to travel a good kilometer to reach the station.

I would like to point out that this was to borrow la line Kintetsu-Nara, the best option to get to Osaka from Nara, in our case. Because we had no JR Passport (which was not essential given our journeys) and our arrival point on this line was the station Osaka-Uehommachi, right next to our hotel. If you have a JR Pass and depending on the location of your hotel, you can take the line JR Yamatoji, whose arrival is at JR namba (near the district of dotonbori).

On the train between Nara and Osaka.

Where to stay in Osaka?

For information about our hotel in Osaka, click here!

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