We’re coming to the end of our stay in Japan, with a return to where it all began: Osaka, the bustling capital of Kansai. Renowned for its iconic castle and lively Dotonbori district, Osaka is a city where modernity and tradition blend harmoniously. The third largest city in Japan (after Tokyo and Yokohama), Osaka is also renowned for its culinary scene and relaxed atmosphere. Here’s the story of our two half-days spent discovering its must-see attractions.
First steps in Osaka
It was early afternoon when we landed in Osaka. Our first steps in the city consisted of going to our hotel, just to drop off our suitcases. As mentioned above, this was a super easy task since the latter (see bottom of the article) was barely 200 m from the Ōsaka-Uehommachi station, where we arrived.
The problem was that it wasn't yet 14 PM, so check-in wasn't possible yet… As such, we could have simply left our luggage and gone exploring straight away. But since it was lunchtime, we figured we might as well find something nearby to sample the local cuisine, which is quite renowned, and then check in right after.
Since we were in a more "budget-friendly" area, with offices and all that, the dining options were quite limited. After some hesitation, we settled into a small local restaurant, just past a store (Joy Fit 24) and next to a shop (Yahoo Mobile). Most of the dishes were around €6-7, there was hardly anyone there when we were, but it did the job perfectly well.
Visit to Osaka Castle
It was already 15 PM when we left the hotel to head to our first visit of the day, Osaka Castle. Time flies, so we decided to get straight to the point. We boarded the subway at Tanimachi 9-chome station, 600 meters from our hotel. We only had two stops to reach the closest station to the castle, Tanimachiyonchome, all on the Tanimachi line (you can also get off at the next station, Temmabashi, to reach the north entrance of the park surrounding the castle). Simple and efficient. Another 800 meters on foot and we were at Otemon Gate, the southwest entrance to the park surrounding Osaka Castle.
History of Osaka Castle
We're standing at the level of a watchtower, a photogenic spot where you can admire the imposing rampart and the moat surrounding the keep. These are, in fact, the only (almost) original elements, dating from the early 17th century. Indeed, the construction of the castle and its famous keep (called tenshu in Japanese) was begun in 1583 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, on the site of a former temple, which had been destroyed by his rival at the time, Oda Nobunaga. As an interesting side note, Osaka Castle was based on the model of Oda's castle (Azuchi Castle), built just a few years earlier.
Construction was completed in 1598, the very year of the initiator's death, and the castle then passed to his son. At the time, it was the largest Japanese castle of its era, consisting of eight stories in total (five above ground, resting on a stone base, but concealing three underground levels). The castle was built to be the center of power for the Toyotomi family's shogunate. And as you might expect, Japan's tumultuous history has not spared the site. Destroyed by fire following the Siege of Osaka in 1615, when the powerful Tokugawa family seized power (beginning the Tokugawa shogunate, which would last for over 200 years), the castle and its keep were rebuilt starting in 1620.
Tokugawa Hidetada, the second shogun of the Tokugawa clan, rebuilt the tenshū and ordered the reconstruction of the walls. This brings us back to my point about the "almost" original elements, since these are the ramparts that still exist today, composed of large stone blocks placed side by side without mortar. Unfortunately, the "poor" tenshū would only last another 45 years, as it burned down after being struck by lightning in 1665. Since the Tokugawa capital was in Edo (Tokyo), the site was not subsequently rebuilt.
In the 19th century, when the castle was already in poor condition after years of neglect and lack of maintenance, a large part of the buildings were destroyed during the fighting during the period known as the Meiji Restoration (ending the Tokugawa shogunate to restore the power of the Emperors, the shogunate being considered a kind of feudal military dictatorship).
It wasn't until 1928 that the Osaka city government launched a reconstruction project, but using modern techniques, favoring reinforced concrete over the granite that originally composed the keep. As Japan was heavily bombed during World War II (at that time, the castle site was occupied by the military, making it a prime target), Osaka Castle suffered further damage. Its last major renovation took place between 1995 and 1997, so it is a relatively recent keep, but one with an interesting history, that visitors see today.
Admire the view of Osaka from the keep
Getting back to the point, here we are in the park surrounding the famous keep. We arrive at the inner gate known as the "sakura," as we cross a second moat encircling the keep. We then come across one of the castle's megaliths; the ramparts are made up of large blocks of rock, some of which are so large that they make you wonder, "How did they get there?!"
Here we are facing Taiko-ishi, or "octopus stone"—yes, because they even have nicknames (its name comes from the octopus shape visible in its lower left corner). This one is among the largest megaliths in the castle, with a face measuring 5,5 by 11,7 meters and weighing 130 tons! We had just passed another one near the Otemon Gate, and there's another one at the Kyobashi-guchi entrance (the northwest corner of the park surrounding the castle).
As we approached the castle, we passed a large department store, Miraiza, which includes souvenir shops and restaurants. It's itself shaped like a castle, but its style contrasts sharply with the one directly opposite. Apparently, these were military buildings from the 30s and 40s. Since we didn't have much time, we didn't linger too long in the area around the park, so I missed a lovely photo spot in the small Japanese garden on the left. It was a beautiful spring day, albeit overcast. There were people around, but it wasn't overcrowded (we came specifically after the cherry blossoms had finished blooming), and since some were content with just the park (which covers six hectares), there was no queue to enter the keep that day.
The floors each form an exhibition detailing the history of Osaka and especially concerning the era of the castle's builder, Toyotomi Hideyoshi. In short, the interior of the keep makes up the Osaka-jô Museum (free for children under 15, 600 yen per adult) and has a large collection of over 10 objects (weapons, armor and everyday objects from the castle). The highlight of the visit is the panoramic view of the city that can be had from the eighth floor.
Time to do some shopping in the souvenir shop, cleverly arranged when you go back down the dungeon, and it was time to continue our visits. Without realizing it, we had spent two hours in total in Osaka Castle, the time to come out at the northwest corner, to then join the subway at Temmabashi station, direction Dotonbori.
A short stroll through the Dōtonbori district
Originally, we had planned a stop at Nakanoshima Park (the first public park opened by Osaka as a city, back in 1891), located between the Dōjima and Tosabori rivers. It's known for its rose garden and its neo-classical building, the Osaka City Central Public Hall. Since we were arriving in the late afternoon, with the sun setting soon, we took the Keihan Line subway directly, then the Midosuji Line to Osaka-Namba Station, a stone's throw from Dotonbori. This subway ride, rather crowded at that hour, made me smile, thinking that people must live underground, given how quiet the street seemed above ground.
Moreover, one of the restaurants at Samba station, upon arrival, was full and typical, since there are no seats but just a counter where people have a small meal, just hidden by a sort of curtain, a Japanese-style fast food in short.
Before diving in, we took advantage of the nearby Don Quijote, that well-known Japanese chain of general stores (a sort of local "discount store," if you will…), and left with a few odds and ends. Speaking of which, along Dotonbori, there's another branch of this store that you can't miss, as it actually has a Ferris wheel (the Ebisu Tower Ferris Wheel) as its facade.
This district, which sprawls around the Dōtonbori Canal, between the Dōtonbori Bridge and the Nipponbashi Bridge, has become a must-see tourist destination in Osaka. Its name comes from a local entrepreneur, Dōton Yasui, who began widening the small east-west flowing river in the 17th century, hoping to stimulate local trade. Interrupted by the Siege of Osaka, the character of its banks was further developed under the Tokugawa shogunate, transforming Dōtonbori into an entertainment district of Osaka, then undergoing significant urban planning.
For a long time, this was Osaka's red-light district and a popular nightlife spot with its many traditional theaters (all now gone). Today, it's the abundance of restaurants, shops, and numerous neon signs that attract people like moths to a flame.
The most famous of its signs is undoubtedly that of the confectioner Ezaki Glico, which depicts a runner crossing the finish line. It has been present in one form or another in Dotonbori since 1935. The brand is also well-known in Thailand, particularly for its stick-shaped biscuits resembling Mikado sticks, called Pocky there. It's obviously an excellent spot to sample the renowned local cuisine. Osaka's regional cuisine includes okonomiyaki, which we tried in Nara, takoyaki (octopus balls), udon (a noodle dish), and a wide variety of regional sushi.
Among the recognizable restaurants are Kinryu Ramen, with its golden dragon on the facade (it has three different branches), Kani Doraku and its giant mechanical crab (6,5 m) whose specialty I'll let you guess, and Zubora-ya, a fugu restaurant (fugu is a fish that can be deadly if improperly prepared) with a huge lantern shaped like… well, fugu, of course. One of the oldest restaurants still in operation is Hariju, specializing in beef (only Japanese, of course).
Wandering around the area, we passed through the covered Shinsaibashi-Suji Shopping Street. That's where we stopped for dinner, taking a break from Japanese food (since we were nearing the end of our trip) and trying an American chain, Shakey's Pizza (Yes, I know, boo to the bad guys… For the record, this branch has since closed permanently, so don't bother looking for it). Beyond the main street, we found ourselves in small back alleys lined with restaurants and places to spend a pleasant evening with friends (read: boozy).
There are already people returning along the canal and it contrasts quite a bit with the still very calm atmosphere of our arrival. The street comes alive and lights up and the boats parade on the canal to offer visitors a different view of the vibrant district of Osaka. For our part, we took a tour to admire the facades of the restaurants and especially a few stops in shops to buy stocks of local sweets and it was time for us to end this day by returning to our hotel.
Small flea market in Shin-Osaka (Osaka Charity Flea Market)
During his visit to Osaka, Jitima was keen to visit a flea market. While there are several in the city, including some of the largest in Japan (like the Nanko DIY Market), that morning we headed to the small market near Shin-Osaka Station. The reason was primarily that it was a Saturday, the market's day, but also because the proceeds go to a charity for people with disabilities.
And although it's a small flea market, this place is brimming with bargains. From old records to bags, clothes (including kimonos), and other possible finds, there might be a few gems for you. In our case, we fell for an old Canon film camera (a first-generation Canonet from 1961, if I'm not mistaken; judging by the look, it's not a QL17 or QL19) that was being sold to us for the equivalent of 500 Baht (about €15). It's supposedly still in working order, although I haven't had a chance to test it yet.
Umeda Sky Building: incredible view of Osaka
Our next and final visit was to the iconic Umeda Sky Building, a glass and steel structure dominating northern Osaka. It has a distinctive, somewhat retro-futuristic look. An ambitious project for what was intended to be the heart of Shin Umeda City, a new urban center northwest of Osaka Station. At the time of its construction, completed in 1993, it was clearly a groundbreaking building, with its unusual combination of two separate towers, later joined at their summits by a platform raised over 170 meters high, built separately at ground level. Designed by Hiroshi Hara, the Japanese architect who also designed Kyoto Station, the Umeda Sky Building continues to attract tourists more than 20 years after its opening.
Its attraction lies, besides its unique architecture, in the 360° view offered at the level of its "floating" observatory, in the shape of a ring, at 173 meters high. To get there from Shin-Osaka, it was direct via a train arriving at Osaka station, located not far from the tower. In doing so, we passed through one of the "legendary" department stores of this district, the Hankyu Department Store.
Opened in 1929, it was the first to offer a department store concept (originally eight stories high) combined with a train station, in this case, Hankyu Umeda Station, over which the building was constructed. While the station has since been relocated slightly uphill, the store has remained, undergoing significant transformations from the 1930s to the 1980s before a major renovation in 2012.
It was at the foot of the Hankyu Department Store, while facing the large red Ferris wheel in this area, that we witnessed a rather funny scene: visitors dressed as characters from the Mario Bros universe, taking a go-kart tour of the city!
Seeing that, I thought, "Damn, that's what I should have done!" Well, with Jitima it wouldn't have been possible, because even though she has her license, driving isn't really her thing… Anyway, if you're interested, you can book here: Visit Osaka by kart*
To reach the foot of the Umeda Sky Building, we struggled a bit since the area is under redevelopment (it was used until 2014 as a train depot/maintenance area, or something like that). We finally found the path between the Grand Front Osaka tower, next to the station to the Umeda Sky Building, avoiding going around the construction site. But it took us a good 20 minutes in the end to get there from Osaka station.
And there, Jitima, who enjoyed markets, was in her element, as there was one underway, coupled with an event that wasn't necessarily expected here. the Aloha Summer FestivalWe lingered to watch a Tahitian dance before taking the elevator up to the 35th floor. That's where you buy tickets to go higher, all the way to the "floating gardens," a rather surprising name since there are no plants at all…
And to reach the platform, it's best not to be afraid of heights, since you have to take an escalator above the void! As it is suspended between the two towers, the experience is quite amazing, even if the space is enclosed, the surrounding windows allow you to fully appreciate the climb to the top.
As an aside, there is another much taller tower in Osaka that also offers a panoramic view of the city: Abeno Harukas. Located next to Tennoji Station, just 2 km from our hotel, it is currently the tallest tower in Japan (300 m).
Returning to our current view, we find ourselves on this ring suspended 173 meters above the ground. From here, we overlook the entire city, in a district located north of Osaka. Despite the somewhat overcast sky, it doesn't detract from the charm of the 360-degree view offered by these "floating gardens."
With on one side, a group of large towers clustered around Osaka Station. One of them is also famous, not for its size (only 16 floors), nor even for its helipad at the top (rather ordinary, let's say). No, the reason? Oh, just a highway slip road that runs right through the middle.
The TKP Tower (the current owner, as it is still known by its former name, the Gate Tower) is indeed bisected by a road built between the fifth and seventh floors. This rather absurd situation stems from the owners' stubborn refusal to "abandon" their plot of land, as they wanted to redevelop it in the 80s, even though the road project had just been approved (in 1983). It took five long years of negotiations with the Hanshin Highway Company to reach an agreement.
And the tower was completed in 1992, thanks to this compromise… To make this architectural feat possible, the agreement stipulated that the highway company would lease the floors occupied by the infrastructure. Furthermore, the highway is obviously not in direct contact with the building (otherwise there would be too much vibration). Instead, it crosses it via a bridge, held in place by supports on either side of the tower. The road is also surrounded by a structure that serves both to protect the building and to mitigate noise and vibrations.
Another building below stands out in this cluster of towers, with a somewhat "old-fashioned" design, somewhere between a castle and a kind of cathedral. Being curious, I looked it up; it's a hotel, if you're interested: the Monterey Osaka (double rooms are around €80-130 depending on promotions, which is quite reasonable for this area). you can book here on Booking*).
On the other side, you can see the entire series of bridges spanning the Yodo River (Yodo-gawa), and the seemingly endless urban sprawl of Osaka and its surroundings. The only exception is the mountain range visible in the distance, an area known for its numerous golf courses. It is behind these mountains that the sun sets, making the skyscraper a particularly popular spot to admire this special moment.
The river also flows into Osaka Bay, which can be seen clearly from this height, you can even make out the Akashi Bridge, connecting Awaji Island to Honshū Island (the one where Osaka is located). After a good series of photos, zooming in, zooming out, observing the surroundings by going around twice, we had been on the platform of the Umeda Sky Building for 20 minutes, and it was time to go back down, because we had a plane to catch...
On the way to the 39th floor, you will have cafes and restaurants with an equally nice view and if ever, there are of course souvenir shops. Back down, the rest of the day was pretty ordinary, because we were leaving by plane that day.
Passing through Osaka Station and end of the trip to Japan
So we were going to go back to our hotel to pick up our luggage and make the trip to Osaka Kansai Airport. Before that, we went back to the department store located at Osaka Station to get lost in the twists and turns of this large complex, just to go and eat a bite.
After searching for a while, uninspired, for what we wanted, despite a wide selection of restaurants, we were struggling to decide. The day before, we'd given in to a pizza craving, but this time it was a crêperie… No, we were beyond saving… We quickly redeemed ourselves once we got to the airport by enjoying a delicious bowl of ramen, even though it was already dinnertime while we were waiting for our flight. And it was on this gastronomic note that we ended our first trip to Japan.
Goodbye Osaka and see you next time? Probably…
Getting to Osaka from Nara
There is only a mountain separating the historical city of nara where we were coming from to go to Osaka. 30 km to travel by train. Despite a fairly short distance, allow around an hour for the journey.
If at the outward journey from Kyoto we arrived at JR Nara Station, we left from the other train station in Nara, Kintetsu-Nara Station. So, if on the way there, we had little to travel between the station and our hotel, we had to travel a good kilometer to reach the station.
I should clarify that we ended up taking the Kintetsu-Nara line, the best option for getting to Osaka from Nara in our case. We didn't have a JR Pass (which wasn't essential given our route), and our arrival point on this line was Osaka-Uehommachi station, right next to our hotel. If you have a JR Pass, and depending on the location of your hotel, you can take the JR Yamatoji line, which arrives at JR Namba station (near the Dotonbori district).
Where to stay in Osaka?
For information about our hotel in Osaka, click here!
Daiwa Roynet Hotel Osaka-Uehonmachi
Note: 9 / 10
Budget: from 95€
The name is a bit long, but the precision is somewhat important, since Daiwa Roynet is a chain, and there are at least five of them in Osaka alone. As we were nearing the end of our trip, we upgraded "slightly," even though it was still a small, windowless room at that price…
But we still had a designated bathroom and the location was really convenient for our stay in Osaka, close to the train and the metro (Sennichimae and Tanimachi lines).
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