Crossing the Thailand–Cambodia border via Aranyaprathet–Poipet

Crossing a border can seem trivial when you're used to it. But if it's your first time, especially on foot via a land crossing, it's best to be well prepared. A few tips are in order to avoid any hassle—especially at the border between Thailand and Cambodia, between Aranyaprathet and Poipet, which is known for its chaotic nature.

Getting to the border from Bangkok

From Bangkok, you will have minivans making the trip to the border (around 400 ฿). You also have buses specialized on cross-border trips, with for example Giant Ibis who makes a journey Bangkok - Siem Reap, which will usually be the next destination after Poipet.

Some vans or buses leave very early in the morning around 1:30-2:00 in order to arrive among the first at the border. This may be preferable because it can get very busy from noon onwards, with waits of more than 2 hours sometimes.

If ever, it is also possible to take the train, but the timetables are limited (two per day).

Regardless of your mode of transport (bus, taxi or train), they normally stop very close to the point of exit from Thailand, Khlong Luek Border Checkpoint.

Visit Aranyaphrathet Border Market

Before leaving Thailand, if you have the time and are curious, I encourage you to visit the local market. As is often the case near borders, the towns are bustling with cross-border trade. It's a chance to get a glimpse of Cambodia without actually being there. You can find just about anything, from food to clothing.

The welcome was generally warm because few foreigners come here to see what is happening, most are content to just cross the border.

Exit Thailand

Often, right out of your bus or taxi, upon arriving in the area, you will be approached by "guides" or people presenting themselves as officials with badges, who are there to guide you through the different steps that I describe here. Basically, they will want to accompany you to make your Cambodian visa, and offer services at inflated prices to make the necessary photocopies, identity photos, etc. 

Unless you're heading to the border unprepared and without any preparation, these aren't essential, so you can skip them and continue to the border crossing. Go to the Thai immigration building to get your stamp. Similar to the airport process, if you've already tried it, you'll queue up to go before the immigration officer and get your exit stamp with the date. Don't forget to check that you have your "departure card" (TM6) before this step and that it's correctly filled out.

As soon as you exit this hall through the back, you will cross into "no man's land," where technically you are no longer in Thailand, nor yet truly in Cambodia, whose official border is marked by the small stream you will cross via a bridge, leading you to the Cambodian border post. There, too, you will be approached by people offering to assist you with the procedures.

It can be confusing if you are faced with it for the first time. To summarize – DON'T LISTEN TO ANYONE – and continue on your way across the small bridge. While there might be some sincere people among them (as some are genuinely helpful), most will confuse you by adding unnecessary steps and, above all, demanding more than the basic $30 visa fee. They take advantage of the ignorance and fear of novice tourists about dealing with officials.

Return to Cambodia

The process is simple enough to do on your own. Once you've crossed the small bridge, you'll find yourself in front of the new building (a welcome change from the tent-like structures that were there 10 years ago). Go inside the Cambodian immigration building and ask for the form to fill out. Once completed, hand over the $30 (it's best to exchange your money beforehand, as paying in Baht or another currency will result in a loss) and a passport photo.

For a few years now (I experienced it in 2016), there has been an assumed corruption where, for no reason, you are asked for an additional 100 Baht (€2,5) to obtain the stamp for your visa (since Covid, they can mention a pseudo medical certificate to obtain as is the case between the border between the 4 islands in Laos and Cambodia, also very prone to scams).

Since I was with my parents, I didn't look into it and I stupidly paid... However, and let's be clear, this isn't official, so... NOT MANDATORY! The law is clear: a visa costs $30, period. Be aware that if you're patient, they'll typically let those willing to pay through first without hesitation, and then, perhaps discreetly when it's less busy, they might finally let you through if you don't pay the extra fee, but even that's not guaranteed…

With your visa in hand, all that remains is to have it inspected by the agents a few meters away as you exit the immigration building. You'll pass by a row of casinos, attracting Thais since gambling is illegal in their country. After that, Cambodian tour operators will approach you, asking where you're going and offering their transportation services.

Getting to your next stop in Cambodia

Initially, you're given a (free) shuttle to the bus terminal. So far, so good… Well, except that this terminal is a complete rip-off. Officially, you buy the ticket and they tell you the bus will leave when it's full enough…

That is to say, practically never… Or at least, it can take quite a while. And it's at this point that "friendly" taxi drivers will offer their services to take you the rest of the way to Siem Reap, if that is your destination.

Another bus option, but you will also have to be patient, is via a local company Vireak Buntham. The advantage is that their counter is located directly next to the Kbal Spean roundabout, which is just after the border. The disadvantage is that there are buses only in the evening…

According to the latest information, there is one at 21pm and 22pm, and they arrive at 23:50pm and 00:55am respectively. Both cost $11. However, I understand that if you are there during the day, they may offer vans for a similar price, so we'll see...

If you are going to Phnom Penh, there are several bus companies, including Vireak or Cambolink 21 Express which seems to have a better reputation. Whatever you choose, it is around 600-700 baht for a duration of about 8h to 9h.

We have been hearing about the renovation of the railway and the Poipet station for several years, accessible on foot from the border since it is 400 m after the roundabout, precisely crossed by the tracks that pass there in the middle of this square. If there was a limited service for a time, I can't find any information to date about regular trains crossing the country from Poipet...

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