Prasat Phanom Rung and Prasat Muang Tam: two Khmer gems in southern Isan

Today, I'm heading to a region I haven't mentioned in a while. Aside from a foray into Khao Yai National Park—straddling the East and Northeast—the last time I visited Isan, it was with Phimai, also known for its major Khmer temple in the country. Suffice to say, it goes back a long way.

This time we head to the heart of Buriram province to discover two other impressive Khmer sites: Prasat Phanom Rung, perched on an extinct volcano, and Prasat Muang Tam, its "little brother" located not far below.

Two temples that I recommend as much for their historical interest as for their location: a little-visited corner of Thailand, a change from the classics. An opportunity to discover another side of Thailand.

Why come here?

First, I would say: because things are changing. When we think of old buildings and historical sites in Thailand, we often turn to the old capitals—and that's normal. Ayutthaya is only an hour from Bangkok, and Sukhothai fits easily into a northbound itinerary.

But if you like this kind of place, then I would say this: these two temples are among the most beautiful Khmer remains in Thailand.

• Phanom rung is a real eye-catcher with its monumental staircase, its perfectly aligned doors, and its dominant position on an ancient volcano.
• Prasat Muang Tam, more discreet, exudes a real serenity, with its pools lined with nagas and its harmonious architecture.

Located 5 hours by road from Bangkok, in the large northeastern region, commonly called "Isan" (which is sometimes written as Issan on French-speaking sites to transcribe the pronunciation), it is also an opportunity to travel through provinces that are much less touristy - at least for foreign travelers, Prasat Phanom Rung can attract quite a few Thais, but the region remains generally peaceful.

If you're traveling in the area, these two temples can easily fit into a larger itinerary around Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) and Buriram — either before heading back down to Bangkok via the Khao Yai National Park, or on the contrary by continuing east, towards the border regions of Laos.

And if you push a little further southeast, you will also find some Khmer temples lost in the forest, on the Cambodian border — confidential sites, away from everything, which I recommend precisely for this rare sensation of being alone facing thousand-year-old ruins. I spoke about it in more detail in a recent article, for those who are interested.

And that's not all: around Phanom Rung and Prasat Muang Tam, there are also several other Khmer ruins scattered throughout the countryside. Prasat Plai Bat 1, Kuti Ruesi Ban Nong Bua Rai or Prasat Ban Bu are good examples. The latter, moreover, resembles like two drops of water the border temple of Prasat Ta Muan — like an architectural nod which clearly demonstrates the coherence of this Khmer ensemble across the entire plateau.

Prasat Phanom Rung: a temple at the top of a volcano

We start with the most important of the two. Prasat Phanom Rung was built between the 10th and 13th centuries, during the Angkorian period, in a style close to that of the Baphuon in Angkor. It was, like many temples at that time, dedicated to Shiva (and therefore to Hinduism).

The tour begins with a long paved path, lined with stone markers in the shape of a stylized lotus, which leads straight to the sanctuary. The layout is perfectly straight, the symmetry impeccable, and we already feel the desire to impress (mission accomplished). During certain events, like this one, the markers are dressed in red fabric, which further reinforces the solemnity of the place. It's a rather spectacular introduction, I must say.

Once you reach the end of the alley, you climb a fairly steep staircase that leads to a terrace guarded by nagas (mythical serpents). This transition symbolically marks the passage from one world to another. The perspective remains aligned, and the higher you go, the more you become aware of the highly codified staging of Khmer sacred architecture.

At the very top, you come across the temple's main enclosure, perfectly restored. Along the sides, you can see several ponds filled with water lilies, which add a touch of freshness and color. Passing the first building at the top of the steps, you reach the inner courtyard, in the middle of which stands its central prang of pink sandstone.

Once inside the sanctuary, one discovers this long alignment of perfectly centered doors. It is here that the sun crosses the entire axis of the temple during the equinoxes. In the center of the passage, a statue of the bull Nandin, Shiva's mount, recalls the Hindu origins of the sanctuary.

On the side of the temple, I come across a very well-preserved carved stone drainage system. This kind of detail is a reminder that Khmer architecture was not limited to religious pomp: it was also designed in a highly functional manner.

The contrast with the finesse of the neighboring sculptures is quite striking—whether it be the details on the lintels and pediments, or even this Khmer statue that still guards access to the central prang. One can still distinguish the jewelry, the posture, the clothing—everything that gave these sculptures a human dimension.

A closer look at some of the blocks reveals subtle engravings, half-erased by time. It's hard to tell whether this is simply graffiti left by a more recent visitor or a sculpture that was never finished.

Behind the sanctuary, we discover a rougher facade, where a few trees have since taken up residence. Today, the vegetation partially obscures the view, but we can still make out the opening onto the plain below. In the Khmer era, the summit must have offered a much more unobstructed panorama: the position is strategic, dominant, and the perspective extends far into the horizon.

In my experience, the effect is stronger at the end of the day, when the warm light brings out the colors of the stone and the details of the sculptures that adorn this almost thousand-year-old complex.

Prasat Muang Tam: more discreet, but just as charming

Located below the Phanom Rung, Prasat Muang Tam is less imposing in some ways, but it gives off a very special atmosphere. Its name doesn't lie: it can be translated as " sanctuary of the lower town", which reflects its geographical position well.

Here, the whole seems to exude harmony. There is a real coherence between the architecture and the environment: the surrounding pools, the majestic trees now integrated into the decor, and the structures of the sanctuary form a particularly soothing whole.

The buildings, constructed from a mixture of materials—mostly sandstone and laterite—form a well-preserved ensemble. The staggered plan is typical of Khmer temples with religious purposes, with a central sanctuary and enclosures delimited by gopura, these towers forming the entrance passages to Hindu temples.

What immediately catches the eye are the four L-shaped pools, perfectly symmetrical, bordered by steps and sculpted nagas, with a little extra here: the presence of water lilies on the surface of the water. Water also played a major symbolic role within the sacred space.

Just as at Phanom Rung, here we find finely carved ornaments and lintels. Above a door, we can clearly see the figure of Kala, a mythological creature believed to protect the place. Even worn by time, the finesse of the sculpture remains a stunning testament to the dexterity of the artists of the time.

Upon entering the central section, I was struck by a rather rare detail for a building of this period: the use of red bricks for the main towers. They contrast beautifully with the dark laterite bases and the light sandstone frames. The result: a real play of textures and natural colors, even more striking in the low light of late morning (and just as beautiful at sunset, which I also experienced).

Despite its immediate proximity to Phanom Rung, Prasat Muang Tam is often much quieter. It's a stop I recommend without hesitation, following in the footsteps of its elder brother perched on the hill.

Practical advice

Accommodation, meals, here are some useful tips to make the most of Phanom Rung and Prasat Muang Tam.

Where to sleep nearby

Nan Rong
This is the ideal base if you want to visit both temples stress-free. The town is about thirty minutes from Phanom Rung, which makes it easy to arrive at the site early. There are quite a few small, very affordable hotels (around €15–20 per night), perfect for a simple stopover.

• P.California Inter Hostel – simple but central, very good value for money
• Phanomrungpuri Hotel – decent comfort, with swimming pool
• Hotel of Love – a hotel a little away from the center but chic and with its own restaurant

Buriram
If you prefer to stay in a slightly livelier city with more restaurants and cafes, Buriram is also an option. However, it's about a 60km round trip to the temples.

Where to eat around the temples

Around Phanom Rung, there are a few local eateries near the parking lot, but nothing fancy. On the Prasat Muang Tam side, it's even quieter—not much to stop and eat.

The easiest way to have lunch or dinner is in Nang Rong: a little livelier in the evening, with a few restaurants, stalls, and a small night market (Nang Rong Night Market).

On Fridays and Saturdays there is also a walking street not far from the night market, from 15 p.m. Local atmosphere guaranteed!

Tips for visits

Morning or end of day?
You'll sometimes read that it's best to start with Prasat Muang Tam, then finish with Phanom Rung. Honestly, the order doesn't really matter: they're very close. But in any case, avoid the middle of the afternoon: it's often very hot, and the light is much more beautiful early in the morning or late in the day.

When to come?
To avoid the crowds, it is best to aim for a weekday, and if possible outside of Thai public holidays.

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