Pakse is a large city in southern Laos. It lacks the charm of Luang Prabang , and Pakse is more like one of those ordinary cities that you pass through without lingering. It's true that it mainly serves as a starting point for the famous Bolaven Plateau loop, or as a transit point for Vat Phou in Champasak—the other major attraction in the area, along with the 4,000 Islands further south.
And yet, if you take the time to spend a day or two there, you will discover a typical Laotian city atmosphere (that is to say, laid-back), some nice temples, a lively market and beautiful views along the Mekong.
Not enough to disrupt an itinerary, certainly, but enough to put down your suitcases, get a little organized, and get a taste of a more discreet Laos. Here are some ideas for discovering Pakse before heading off to the waterfalls or the Khmer ruins.
How to get to Pakse?
Pakse is the third largest city in Laos by population, so it is well served, whether by road or even by air, making it an almost essential crossing point for exploring southern Laos.
By car
From Vientiane
Night buses connect Vientiane to Pakse. The journey takes between 10 and 12 hours, with departures in the late afternoon or evening. Tickets cost between €16 and €22 (approximately 320,000 to 440,000 kip ), depending on the level of comfort and the bus company.
From Savannakhet
Since I was getting my visa in Savannakhet at the time, that's where I first went to Pakse. Regular buses run from Savannakhet to Pakse. The journey from Savannakhet takes about 5 hours, with frequent departures between 6:30 am and 4:30 pm. Expect to pay around €12 (approximately 240,000 kip ).
From the 4000 Islands (Don Det, Don Khone)
Minivans connect the 4000 Islands to Pakse in approximately 3 to 4 hours. Tickets cost around €12. Departures are usually early in the morning.
From Bangkok (Thailand)
From Bangkok, it's possible to take cross-border buses to Pakse via the Chong Mek/Vang Tao border crossing. I tried this option during my last stay in Pakse. The journey takes about 12 hours (add 1 hour to cross the border). Tickets cost around 900 baht (about €25).
By plane
Pakse International Airport (PKZ) offers domestic flights from Vientiane and Luang Prabang. Fares vary depending on the season and airline, but can be found starting from €60.
Regarding international flights, it remains a small airport, so there are currently no regular direct flights between Bangkok and Pakse. Travelers usually have to make a stopover, often in Vientiane or Luang Prabang. Fares for these flights with a stopover start at €150 for a one-way ticket.
Where to stay in Pakse?
Although Pakse isn't the most memorable city in Laos, spending a night or two here can be worth it, if only to rest between two journeys or to prepare for the Bolovens loop.
If you're planning on embarking on this adventure, note that reliable rental companies are mainly located in the city center and along the main road. Some accommodations will store your bag for free for the duration of your trip, which is always a good idea.
Here are some useful tips and suggestions based on your profile.
Small budgets: simple and inexpensive tips
There are quite a few simple guesthouses concentrated around the northern banks of the city center, some even offering private rooms, Wi-Fi, fans, and sometimes breakfast included. You can find really cheap options starting from 100,000 to 160,000 kip (about €5 to €8 ) per night.
Suggestion: DD Guesthouse
Cheap, clean, well-located. Nothing fancy, but for one night before heading out on the loop or to Champassak, it's more than enough.
→ Ideal for : solo travelers, tight budgets, quick stopovers
Suggestion: Sabai ca Baille Guesthouse
A guesthouse with a slightly bohemian charm, run by French people who have been living there for a while. Simple rooms, a pleasant patio, home-cooked meals as an option... and above all, a really good atmosphere. It's not high-end, but it's clean, quiet, well-located, and the welcome is excellent. Approx. 10 to 15 € the night depending on the room.
→ Ideal for : cool travellers who like friendly places, interactions with owners and slightly offbeat spots without being cheap.
Reasonable comfort: sleep well without breaking the bank
For slightly more comfortable accommodation, there are a few hotels with good amenities: air conditioning, a good mattress, hot water, and sometimes a rooftop terrace with a view of the Mekong. At between 300,000 and 600,000 kip (approximately €15 to €30), it's a good option for a more comfortable stay.
Suggestion: Pakse Hotel & Restaurant
A budget-friendly option in Pakse, starting at €21. Ideally located in the city center, it boasts a lovely rooftop terrace with views of the city and the Mekong River.
→ Ideal for : travellers who want to do everything on foot, enjoy a rooftop for a drink at sunset, or treat themselves to a little comfort without breaking the bank.
Suggestion: Intouch Riverside Hotel
A good plan midrange, with modern rooms, some with beautiful views of the Mekong, and a quiet location that's not too far from the center. It's clean, comfortable, and a step above basic guesthouses without being "luxurious."
→ Ideal for : those who want a slightly more refined setting, with a view of the Mekong, without going too far from the centre or breaking the bank.
To relax a little longer
Do you want to take a break before heading back, or are you arriving tired from Vientiane? You might as well stay somewhere quieter with a comfortable bed, a pool, and a more airy setting.
Suggestion: The Garden Hotel
A little out of the way from the center, but very pleasant setting, swimming pool, bright rooms and decent breakfast. Approximately 30-35 € (600–000 kips).
→ Ideal for : couples, tired travelers, a break
You can check prices and availability here: → View accommodations in Pakse
What to do in Pakse?
Like any city in this region of Asia, Pakse has its share of Buddhist temples. And even though I've seen a plethora of them in my nearly 20 years in Asia, I always like to see at least a few temples in a new place I visit, at least to get a feel for the local architecture.
Wat Phousalao
It's surely the most famous image of Pakse: a large golden Buddha facing the Mekong River, perched on a hill on the outskirts of the city. Wat Phousalao itself isn't exceptional architecturally, but the site is worth visiting for the panoramic view from the top.
To get there, two options
If you're feeling energetic, you can climb the steep staircase (over 300 steps), lined with colorful nagas, which you'll find shortly after crossing the bridge. It leads directly to the foot of the large Buddha. Depending on the season, I don't recommend doing it in the middle of the day: it gets very hot quickly, and the climb is tough. In any case, the temple is more pleasant in the late afternoon , and it's a great spot to admire the sunset over the Mekong and the rooftops of Pakse.
The other option, the one I chose: I had a scooter, so I took the road that winds up the hill (about a 5 km detour from the bottom of the steps). On the way up, I passed quite a few locals out for a run — apparently a popular spot for that.
The atmosphere is calm , and as is often the case in Laos, the people are smiling. I head straight to the foot of the large Buddha to enjoy the breathtaking view of Pakse, bathed in soft light.
After taking a few photos, I went to take a look at the main building. It doesn't quite follow the classic design: its cruciform shape is unusual. The roof is green, the facade covered in gold leaf… it has a colorful and slightly kitschy style typical of recent temples in Laos. Inside, a monk was at his post, ready to receive donations.
Outside, I stroll through a small flower garden, come across rabbits in an enclosure (yes, rabbits, don't ask me why...), then a small group of young people admiring the landscape that I immortalize.
Shortly after, I came across two female students taking photos of each other. It was here that I took the iconic photo of Pakse , the one with the bridge and the hill in the background.
Time to sit down for a bit, enjoy the surroundings... then I get back on my bike. During the descent, I still enjoy the misty view of the surroundings with this beautiful sunset. On the road, I meet several people who are taking advantage of the setting to come and jog while the temperatures at this time of day become more tolerable.
If you take your time, allow up to 45 minutes on site, no more, but a beautiful interlude above the city.
What Luang
Located right in the city center, on the riverbank, Wat Luang is Pakse's main temple . Despite its importance, I only had the chance to visit it during my second trip to the city. Built in 1935 , during the French colonial period, it's the oldest temple in the city. It was originally founded as a Buddhist school, where both religion and more "modern" subjects like English and business were taught.
Even today, the temple remains active: it is very likely to come across families there who have come to leave offerings, and especially monks. In my case, I met a “tourist” monk, camera in hand, indulging in the same hobby that I was there for: capturing moments of life and the architecture of the temple.
It's a living temple, but not frozen for tourists, few in number during my visit. The complex is well maintained, with two main buildings. One has classical facades with colorful frescoes, but does not stand out particularly in its design. The other, on the other hand, is more interesting. It is very long and has some beautiful carved woodwork, in addition to having a more "ancient" appearance.
Around it, you can see some Buddha statues, chedis, and other structures typical of Buddhist temples. Note that just across the street, you can also see the City Pillar Shrine, a small, recent building believed to house the guardian spirit of Pakse. This type of sacred pillar exists in quite a few cities in Laos and Thailand, and even though this one is brand new, it has its significance for the locals.
As I walked to the bank of the Xe Don River, which borders the temple (and soon flows into the Mekong), I passed several monks studying. Basically, I should have just taken my photos in this beautiful sunset light and then returned to my hotel.
But I came across two curious monks who tried to practice their English by approaching me. The fact is that Laotian is understandable if you speak Thai, so I was able to converse with them for longer than expected! I stayed almost half an hour chatting, talking about what had brought me here to Pakse, asking them how their studies as monks are going, etc. It all ended with a souvenir photo (taken by the second monk, unfortunately blurry).
I'd say the visit doesn't take more than 15 to 20 minutes, but it's still a nice stop, especially if you enjoy seeing temples in their everyday setting. Plus, it's free since admission is free.
Wat Phabat
It's more of an anecdote, but I also stopped at this temple, located along the main road leading to the Bolaven Plateau. I'd read that it's often visited as a stopover—and that was precisely my case, since I was heading out for a day trip to the plateau. That said, it would probably make more sense to visit it on the way back , since the entrance is on the opposite side of the road when leaving Pakse (in Laos, they drive on the right), making it more convenient for returning to the city.
It's not particularly remarkable, but Wat Phabat (ວັດພະບາດ), which also borders the Xe Don River, is a notable Buddhist temple in Pakse. Its most striking feature is the presence of numerous small, chedi-like structures . These funerary monuments house urns containing the ashes of the deceased, making the site an important Buddhist cemetery.
I also saw a Bodhi tree, a sacred tree for Buddhists because it's the type of tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment (I discuss this in my article on Bodhgaya , the original location of the Bodhi tree, its other name). There was also a small statue in a meditative pose resting in the shade of the Bodhi tree to symbolize this reminder.
I also got a glimpse of the monks' quarters, which consist of wooden houses on stilts. In one of them, I saw a monk through the window, seemingly concentrating on his studies.
Note that the name “Phabat” means “footprint of the Buddha,” a term often found in temples in Southeast Asia, believed to house a sacred footprint. As is often the case, it's difficult to say whether this is actually the case, but the name has stuck.
The old streets of Pakse
Even though Pakse doesn't have a proper old town center, you can still spot a few streets with a slightly old-fashioned charm, with colonial houses, wooden facades, and a quiet atmosphere typical of small Laotian towns. It's a far cry from the elegance of Luang Prabang, we agree, but it lends itself well to a stroll without a specific goal—camera slung over your shoulder, or not.
You'll find this old-world atmosphere particularly in the northern area of the city center. From Wat Luang, simply cross the avenue (the one that passes just after over a small bridge) to arrive at an area with some beautiful old buildings and old shops.
Along the way, you'll also find an excellent bakery called La Boulange . In the same neighborhood, there's also a nice café—the Vida Bakery Café —which I tried before embarking on my whirlwind tour of the Bolaven Plateau . You'll also find a few budget guesthouses there. It's the kind of street where you can capture a scene that perfectly encapsulates the local atmosphere: simple, slow-paced, and unpretentious.
Pakse People's Market (DAO Hueang)
I'm trying to present the visits here in a "logical" order, but not chronologically: the market was actually the very first place I visited upon arriving in Pakse . And it's often a good entry point: markets offer a direct glimpse into local life, and they're often very photogenic—even when they're not trying to be.
This isn't the kind of market you visit for handicrafts or souvenirs. It's raw, authentic, local. Dao Heuang Market , one of the largest in southern Laos, is located east of the city center, just before the bridge that crosses the Mekong River. I stopped there on my way out of town to Wat Phousalao.
You can find everything there: fresh produce, dried fish, fruit, clothes, toys, fabrics, utensils, motorcycles in parts… in short, a real organized mess.
The atmosphere is lively, even in the middle of the day. Often chaotic, but frankly interesting, especially if you like to observe daily life without filter. You'll encounter families coming to do their shopping, shopkeepers calling out to each other, smells (good and bad) mingling, and a joyful mix of colors and sounds.
It may not be the most aesthetically pleasing market in the world, but it gives a very vivid glimpse of Pakse.
Note: it's a bit out of the way, so it's best to go by scooter or tuk-tuk. Allow 30 to 45 minutes if you want to stroll around the aisles.
The quays of Pakse
During my first visit, the quays did not yet exist and the riverbanks were still natural. On my last visit, I was able to see the beginning of the work to develop the city's quays.
These walkways now allow you to stroll along the riverbank—first along the Xe Don River, then the Mekong—from Wat Luang to the large bridge, not far from the Dao Heuang market. It's a walk of about 3 km , offering breathtaking views, especially at sunset.
For my part, it was beyond the bridge , in a still undeveloped area (which it still is), that I made my way to a sandbar, similar to a beach , where I was able to admire the superb golden hues of the sunset during my very first time in Pakse. A view of the Wat Phousalao hill , fishing boats at my feet… a beautiful moment to end the day.
Beyond Pakse
Although this article focuses on city tours, it's hard not to mention what there is to do nearby. Pakse is a great base for exploring southern Laos—so it's worth a bit of a discussion!
Not counting the 4,000 islands, also accessible from Pakse, you have nearby two must-sees in southern Laos : Champasak and the Bolaven Plateau , which I wanted to mention briefly here before dedicating separate articles to them.
Champasak
Located about 30 kilometers south of Pakse, Champasak is best known for Vat Phou , an ancient Khmer temple and UNESCO World Heritage Site . But beyond the temple itself, the village is also worth a visit: peaceful, situated on the banks of the Mekong River, with some charming old houses, a tranquil atmosphere, and a beautiful, scenic country road leading there.
It's an easy day trip from Pakse, or even a great place to spend the night if you want to enjoy the area without immediately returning. It's also possible to make a loop by crossing the Mekong River to return to Pakse on the other side and discover some interesting sites —I've detailed this itinerary in a separate article: Champasak: 2-day itinerary around Vat Phou and Don Daeng.
Bolovens Plateau
Clearly one of the main reasons to stop in Pakse is the famous Bolaven Plateau , known for its impressive waterfalls, coffee plantations, small villages and winding roads, ideal for a scooter trip.
Depending on how much time you have, you can choose the shorter loop (two days) or the longer loop , which takes three or four days. It's less common, but it's also possible to visit on a day trip —which is what I did on my first visit. It's obviously very short, but it gives you a good overview of the region and lets you see some beautiful waterfalls.
In a nutshell
Pakse isn't the most exciting city in Laos, but it has the advantage of being a practical, peaceful, and rather pleasant base when you take the time to explore it. A few temples, a lively market, a stroll along the Mekong River… and above all, easy access to the major sites in the south of the country.
A stopover that makes sense , especially if you look beyond its apparent banality.
