Pakse is a large city in the south of Laos. We are far from the charm of Luang Prabang, and Paksé is rather one of these cities lambda which we cross without lingering there too much. It is true that it mainly serves as a starting point for the famous Bolovens loop, or as a passage to Vat Phou in Champassak — the other major point of interest in the area, with the 4 islands further south.
And yet, if you take the time to spend a day or two there, you will discover a typical Laotian city atmosphere (that is to say, laid-back), some nice temples, a lively market and beautiful views along the Mekong.
Not enough to disrupt an itinerary, certainly, but enough to put down your suitcases, get a little organized, and get a taste of a more discreet Laos. Here are some ideas for discovering Pakse before heading off to the waterfalls or the Khmer ruins.
How to get to Pakse?
Pakse is the third largest city in Laos by population, so it is well served, whether by road or even by air, making it an almost essential crossing point for exploring southern Laos.
By car
From Vientiane
Night buses connect Vientiane to Pakse. The journey takes between 10 and 12 hours, with departures in the late afternoon or evening. Tickets cost between 16 and 22 € (about 320 to 000 kips), depending on comfort and operator.
From Savannakhet
Since I was applying for my visa in this city at the time, this is where I traveled to Pakse for the first time. Regular buses depart from Savannakhet to Pakse. The journey from Savannakhet takes about 5 hours, with frequent departures between 6:30 a.m. and 16:30 p.m. In this case, count on € 12 (about 240 kips).
From the 4000 Islands (Don Det, Don Khone)
Minivans connect the 4000 Islands to Pakse in approximately 3 to 4 hours. Tickets cost around €12. Departures are usually early in the morning.
From Bangkok (Thailand)
From Bangkok, it's possible to take cross-border buses to Pakse via the Chong Mek/Vang Tao border crossing. I tried this option during my last stay in Pakse. The journey takes about 12 hours (add 1 hour to cross the border). Tickets cost around 900 baht (about €25).
By plane
Pakse International Airport (PKZ) offers domestic flights from Vientiane and Luang Prabang. Fares vary depending on the season and airline, but can be found starting from €60.
Regarding international flights, it remains a small airport, so there are currently no regular direct flights between Bangkok and Pakse. Travelers usually have to make a stopover, often in Vientiane or Luang Prabang. Fares for these flights with a stopover start at €150 for a one-way ticket.
Where to stay in Pakse?
Although Pakse isn't the most memorable city in Laos, spending a night or two here can be worth it, if only to rest between two journeys or to prepare for the Bolovens loop.
If you're planning on embarking on this adventure, note that reliable rental companies are mainly located in the city center and along the main road. Some accommodations will store your bag for free for the duration of your trip, which is always a good idea.
Here are some useful tips and suggestions based on your profile.
Small budgets: simple and inexpensive tips
There are quite a few simple guesthouses concentrated around the northern banks of the city center, with even private rooms, Wi-Fi, fans, and sometimes breakfast included. You can find really cheap options starting from 100 to 000 kips (is 5 to 8 €) at night.
Suggestion: DD Guesthouse
Cheap, clean, well-located. Nothing fancy, but for one night before heading out on the loop or to Champassak, it's more than enough.
→ Ideal for : solo travelers, tight budgets, quick stops
Suggestion: Sabai ca Baille Guesthouse
A guesthouse with a slightly bohemian charm, run by French people who have been living there for a while. Simple rooms, a pleasant patio, home-cooked meals as an option... and above all, a really good atmosphere. It's not high-end, but it's clean, quiet, well-located, and the welcome is excellent. Approx. 10 to 15 € the night depending on the room.
→ Ideal for : cool travelers who like friendly addresses, exchanges with the owners and slightly offbeat places without falling into the cheap.
Reasonable comfort: sleep well without breaking the bank
For a more refined accommodation, there are a few hotels with good amenities: air conditioning, good mattresses, hot water, and sometimes a rooftop with a view of the Mekong. 300 and 000 kips (around €15 to €30), it's a good option to settle down more comfortably.
Suggestion: Pakse Hotel & Restaurant
A budget-friendly option in Pakse, starting at €21. Ideally located in the city center, it boasts a lovely rooftop terrace with views of the city and the Mekong River.
→ Ideal for : travelers who want to do everything on foot, enjoy a rooftop drink at sunset, or treat themselves to a little comfort without breaking the budget.
Suggestion: Intouch Riverside Hotel
A good plan midrange, with modern rooms, some with beautiful views of the Mekong, and a quiet location that's not too far from the center. It's clean, comfortable, and a step above basic guesthouses without being "luxurious."
→ Ideal for : those who want a slightly more refined setting, with a view of the Mekong, without going too far from the center or blowing the budget.
To relax a little longer
Do you want to take a break before heading back, or are you arriving tired from Vientiane? You might as well stay somewhere quieter with a comfortable bed, a pool, and a more airy setting.
Suggestion: The Garden Hotel
A little out of the way from the center, but very pleasant setting, swimming pool, bright rooms and decent breakfast. Approximately 30-35 € (600–000 kips).
→ Ideal for : couples, tired travelers, “off” break
You can check prices and availability here:→ See accommodations in Pakse
What to do in Pakse?
Like any city in this region of Asia, Pakse has its share of Buddhist temples. And even though I've seen a plethora of them in my nearly 20 years in Asia, I always like to see at least a few temples in a new place I visit, at least to get a feel for the local architecture.
Wat Phousalao
This is surely the most famous image of Pakse: a large golden Buddha facing the Mekong, perched on a hill at the edge of town. Wat Phousalao is nothing exceptional in itself architecturally, but the whole complex is worth the detour for the panoramic view that we have from up there.
To get there, two options
Either you are motivated and you climb the steep stairs (more than 300 steps), lined with colorful nagas, which you will find shortly after crossing the bridge. They lead directly to the foot of the big Buddha. Depending on the season, I do not recommend doing it in the middle of the day: it gets very hot quickly, and it is a steep climb. In any case, the temple is more pleasant at the end of the afternoon, and it's a great spot to admire the sunset over the Mekong and the rooftops of Pakse.
The other solution, the one I chose: I had a scooter, so I took the road that winds up from the back of the hill (about a 5 km detour from the bottom of the steps). On the way up, I passed quite a few locals jogging—apparently a popular spot for that.
The atmosphere is calm, and as is often the case in Laos, the people present are smiling. I head straight to the foot of the big Buddha to enjoy the breathtaking view on Paksé, bathed in a soft light.
After a few photos, I take a look at the main building. It doesn't quite follow the classic pattern: its cross shape stands out. The roof is green, the facade covered in gilding... we find a style colorful and a little kitsch Typical of recent temples in Laos. Inside, a monk stands at his post, ready to receive donations.
Outside, I stroll through a small flower garden, come across rabbits in an enclosure (yes, rabbits, don't ask me why...), then a small group of young people admiring the landscape that I immortalize.
Shortly after, I come across two students taking pictures of each other. This is where I take the iconic photo of Pakse, the one with the bridge and the hill in the background.
Time to sit down for a bit, enjoy the surroundings... then I get back on my bike. During the descent, I still enjoy the misty view of the surroundings with this beautiful sunset. On the road, I meet several people who are taking advantage of the setting to come and jog while the temperatures at this time of day become more tolerable.
While dragging well, count to class on site, no more, but a nice interlude above the city.
What Luang
Located right in the city center, right on the river, Wat Luang is the main temple of PakseDespite its importance, I only lingered there during my second stay in the city. Built in 1935, during the French colonial period, it is the oldest in the city. It was originally founded as a Buddhist school, where both religion and more “modern” subjects such as English and business were taught.
Even today, the temple remains active: it is very likely to come across families there who have come to leave offerings, and especially monks. In my case, I met a “tourist” monk, camera in hand, indulging in the same hobby that I was there for: capturing moments of life and the architecture of the temple.
It's a living temple, but not frozen for tourists, few in number during my visit. The complex is well maintained, with two main buildings. One has classical facades with colorful frescoes, but does not stand out particularly in its design. The other, on the other hand, is more interesting. It is very long and has some beautiful carved woodwork, in addition to having a more "ancient" appearance.
Around it, you can see some Buddha statues, chedis, and other structures typical of Buddhist temples. Note that just across the street, you can also see the City Pillar Shrine, a small, recent building believed to house the guardian spirit of Pakse. This type of sacred pillar exists in quite a few cities in Laos and Thailand, and even though this one is brand new, it has its significance for the locals.
As I walked to the bank of the Xe Don River, which borders the temple (and soon flows into the Mekong), I passed several monks studying. Basically, I should have just taken my photos in this beautiful sunset light and then returned to my hotel.
But I came across two curious monks who tried to practice their English by approaching me. The fact is that Laotian is understandable if you speak Thai, so I was able to converse with them for longer than expected! I stayed almost half an hour chatting, talking about what had brought me here to Pakse, asking them how their studies as monks are going, etc. It all ended with a souvenir photo (taken by the second monk, unfortunately blurry).
Basically, I would say that the visit doesn't take more than 15 to 20 minutes, but it's still a nice stop, especially if you like to observe temples in their everyday setting. Plus, it doesn't cost anything since it's free entry.
Wat Phabat
This is more anecdotal, but I also stopped at this temple, located along the main road leading to the Bolaven Plateau. I've read that it's often visited like this, in passing - and that was precisely my case, since I was leaving for a day trip to the plateau. That said, It would probably be more logical to visit it on the way back., since the entrance is on the opposite side of the road when leaving Paksé (in Laos we drive on the right), therefore more practical when returning to the city.
It is nothing exceptional, but Wat Phabat (ວັດພະບາດ), which also adjoins the Xe Don River, is a notable Buddhist temple in Pakse. It is distinguished above all by the presence of a large number of small chedi-like structuresThese funerary monuments house urns containing the ashes of the deceased, making the site a important Buddhist cemetery.
I was also able to see a "Bodhi" tree there, a sacred tree for Buddhists because it is the type of tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment (I speak of it later). my article on Bodhgaya, the original location of the pagoda fig tree, its other name). There was also a small statue in a meditation position resting in the shade of the fig tree to symbolize this reminder.
I also got a glimpse of the monks' quarters, which consist of wooden houses on stilts. In one of them, I saw a monk through the window, seemingly concentrating on his studies.
Note that the name “Phabat” means “footprint of the Buddha,” a term often found in temples in Southeast Asia, believed to house a sacred footprint. As is often the case, it's difficult to say whether this is actually the case, but the name has stuck.
The old streets of Pakse
Even though Pakse doesn't have a proper old town center, you can still spot a few streets with a slightly old-fashioned charm, with colonial houses, wooden facades, and a quiet atmosphere typical of small Laotian towns. It's a far cry from the elegance of Luang Prabang, we agree, but it lends itself well to a stroll without a specific goal—camera slung over your shoulder, or not.
You'll find this old-world atmosphere particularly in the northern area of the city center. From Wat Luang, simply cross the avenue (the one that passes just after over a small bridge) to arrive at an area with some beautiful old buildings and old shops.
Along the way, we also come across an excellent bakery called The bakery. In this same neighborhood, there is also a nice cafe — the Vida Bakery Café — that I tested before committing to my express tour of the Bolaven Plateau. You'll also find a few cheap guesthouses there. These are the kind of streets where you can capture a scene of life that sums up the local atmosphere: simple, slow, no fuss.
Pakse People's Market (DAO Hueang)
I try here to present the visits in a “logical” order, but nothing chronological: the market was in reality the very first place I visited when I arrived in PakseAnd it's often a good gateway: markets plunge directly into local life, and they're often very photogenic — even when they're not trying to be.
This isn't the kind of market you visit for crafts or souvenirs. It's raw, real, local. Dao Heuang Market, one of the largest in southern Laos, is located east of the city center, just before the bridge that crosses the Mekong River. I stopped there as I was leaving the city to go to Wat Phousalao.
You can find everything there: fresh produce, dried fish, fruit, clothes, toys, fabrics, utensils, motorcycle parts... in short, a real organized mess.
The atmosphere is lively, even in the middle of the day. Often chaotic, but frankly interesting, especially if you like to observe daily life without filter. You'll encounter families coming to do their shopping, shopkeepers calling out to each other, smells (good and bad) mingling, and a joyful mix of colors and sounds.
It's not necessarily the most aesthetically pleasing market in the world, but It gives a very lively overview of Pakse.
Please note: It is a bit out of the way, so it is best to go there by scooter or tuk-tuk. 30 to 45 minutes on site if you stroll a little between the aisles.
The quays of Pakse
When I first visited, the docks did not yet exist and the banks were still natural. On my last visit, I was able to see the start of development work from the city quays.
These now allow you to follow the bank - first that of the Xe Don River, then of the Mekong - from Wat Luang to the large bridge, not far from the Dao Heuang market. A walk of approximately 3 km, with above all a breathtaking view at sunset.
For my part, it is beyond the bridge, in a still raw area (which still is), that I made my way to access a sandbar, similar to a beach, where I was able to admire the superb golden hues of the sunset during my very first time in Pakse. View of the hill from Wat Phousalao, fishing boats at my feet… a beautiful moment to end a day.
Beyond Pakse
Although this article focuses on city tours, it's hard not to mention what there is to do nearby. Pakse is a great base for exploring southern Laos—so it's worth a bit of a discussion!
Not counting the 4 islands, also accessible from Pakse, you have nearby two must-sees in southern Laos : Champasak and Bolovens plateau, which I wanted to briefly mention here before devoting separate articles to it.
Champasak
Located around thirty kilometers south of Pakse, Champassak is best known for being home to the Vat Phou, an ancient Khmer temple listed as Unesco World HeritageBut beyond the site, the village itself is also worth the detour: quiet, on the banks of the Mekong, with some pretty old houses, a tranquil atmosphere, and a beautiful picturesque country road to get there.
This is a easy day trip from Pakse, or even a nice stopover to spend a night there if you want to enjoy the place without making the round trip immediately. It is also possible to make a loop by crossing the Mekong to return to Pakse by the other bank and discover some interesting sites — I have detailed this route in a separate article: Champassak: 2-day itinerary around Vat Phou and Don Daeng.
Bolovens Plateau
It's clearly one of the main reasons to stop in Pakse : the famous Bolovens plateau, known for its impressive waterfalls, coffee plantations, small villages and winding roads, ideal for a scooter trip.
Depending on the time you have available, you can opt for the small loop (over two days), or for the Big loop, to be done in three or four days. It is rarer, but it is also possible to go there on a day trip — which is what I did on my first visit. It's obviously very short, but it gives you a good idea of the region and allows you to see some beautiful waterfalls.
In a nutshell
Pakse is not the most exciting city in Laos, but it has the merit of being a practical, quiet, and rather pleasant base when you take the time to discover it. A few temples, a lively market, a stroll along the Mekong... and above all, easy access to the major sites in the south of the country.
A stopover that makes sense, especially if we know how to look beyond its apparent banality.
