What to do at Doi Suthep in Chiang Mai: temples, nature and culture

If you're planning a trip to Thailand, and more specifically to Chiang Mai, you've probably heard the name Doi Suthep. The term "doi" refers to a mountain (mostly in northern Thailand), here the one that dominates the city of Chiang Mai from a height of 1,676 m.

For many, this name mainly evokes the famous golden temple, the Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, but there is actually much more to discover, especially since the entire area, including the temple, is part of the Doi Suthep–Pui National Park.

It is a destination as much popular by Thais themselves as well as by tourists from passageIt offers fresher mountain air and is an easy escape from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Between spectacular panoramas, waterfalls, sanctuaries and more intimate Like Wat Pha Lat and Hmong villages nestled in its hills, Doi Suthep has many surprises in store for those who take the time to explore it.

Nature and waterfalls of Doi Suthep–Pui Park

When you say mountain, you obviously say nature. The national park of Doi Suthep–Pui thus includes several waterfalls and hiking trails accessible from the foot of the mountain.

Huay Kaew Waterfall & Nature Trail

Easy to access and, above all, free (unlike the waterfall mentioned just after), this small waterfall next to the zoo, not far from the entrance to Chiang Mai University (CMU), is a perfect appetizer to start the visit to Doi Suthep.

La Huay Kaew waterfall is accessible in a few minutes from the road, then a small path (Huai Kaeo Nature Trail) goes up the stream in the shade of the trees. Being so close to the center, it's quite busy, including with locals. It's still a nice place to sit, but not necessarily ideal if you want peace and quiet.

• Access : just after the entrance to Chiang Mai Zoo.
• Temps : 10–15 min to the main waterfall; possible extensions along the stream (free return).
• Level : very easy, short path; rocks sometimes slippery depending on the season on the upper part.
• Season : modest flow in the dry season; prettier after rain (access occasionally limited depending on the day).

Around the waterfall, at the parking lot, the place is lively: along route 1004 which climbs the mountain, we find the monument dedicated to the monk Khruba Siwichai (I talk about it in my article on the temples to see in the old city) and, just next to it, up above, the Wat Sri Soda (Phra Aram Luang), an active temple.

If you don't have your mount for the day yet, you can continue your visits to Doi Suthep by taking a songthaew red: a departure station is located here.

Montha Than Waterfall & Nature Trail

Located about 3 km after the Khruba Siwichai monument, on Route 1004, a small road on the right leads to the park post and then to the waterfall (parking, camping area, tables, toilets). The waterfall consists of several levels: the first is about 200 m from the parking lot, and a small loop trail goes into the forest if you want to continue the walk to the others.

It's not the most spectacular waterfall, but it's a good way to get close to the forest—ideal for families. Note: The park has been reclassified to category 1, which resulted in a lower entrance fee (rare enough to be underlined).

• Access : Route 1004 → right turnoff signposted “Montha Than Waterfall”, park checkpoint then parking lot.
• Path : short loop (~1,3 km / ~30–40 min) in the shade, sometimes slippery ground after rain.
• 🕒 Schedule : in general 8:30–16:30 (varies depending on season/weather).

Wat Pha Lat: a sanctuary in the jungle

For a long time, Wat Pha Lat was seen as a temple hidden in the middle of the forest: everyone headed towards it Wat Phra That Doi Suthep without stopping there (including local agencies). Word of mouth and social media coverage have since popularized this forest temple, dedicated to meditation.

It always feels strange to talk about it, knowing that just a few years ago, the parking lot was empty, there was hardly anyone there, and one of the buildings was in ruins. Its success is understandable: it remains a peaceful stopover before the hustle and bustle of Doi Suthep. Despite being more crowded than before, the temple retains a Zen atmosphere linked to its setting.

In the visible buildings, we can see directly at the entrance a cloister, recently built. The latter, in addition to providing shade and protection from the rain, acts as a "buffer" zone with a beautiful grassy area, before accessing the back of the site. At the back, on the edge of the forest, a small wooden pavilion houses a seated Buddha statue.

Next door, we join a old chedi covered in moss and ferns; its dark stone contrasts sharply with the glitz of the large golden chedi of Doi Suthep, higher up the mountain. Finally, on the other side of the chedi, there is a last building whose interior cannot be visited, which faces a courtyard intended to accommodate worshippers for certain ceremonies (this remains my deduction...)

Classically, we find in front of the chedi, a small viharn which houses several images of the Buddha. Apart from the motifs decorating the posts and the ceiling, the whole remains sober: this is a characteristic of forest temples, which favor meditation rather than the "look at me" effect.

In front of the viharn, a small shaded courtyard leads to a staircase lined with bamboo and guarded at its base by two lions. Then comes an intermediate platform, then another staircase, this time lined with nagas, which leads to the edge of the waterfall located within the temple grounds.

Because one of the elements that distinguishes this place, in addition to the forest that surrounds it, is the stream which crosses the site and forms a waterfall right in the heart of the temple. The place is peaceful and, from this area, you can partially see Chiang Mai. By the way, don't forget that this is a meditation center: be discreet.

A path runs alongside the river, with a few improvements: the most visible is an arched facade (the building was once in ruins), in reality a cavity housing Buddha statues. Crossing a small, recently renovated, century-old bridge, you reach a meditation platform in the shade of banana trees.

From here, you can see that the path continues its descent, but if you go to the other side, the climb continues. This is because this path is part of the " Monks Trail " For the more motivated, it is possible to reach Wat Pha Lat on foot from Chiang Mai University: the path passes by the temple before continuing higher towards the Wat Phra That Doi Suthep.

Monk's Trail

The monks' path was once used not only by religious people, but also by the faithful who wished to reach the Wat Phra That Doi Suthep when the road did not yet exist. The Wat Pha Lat then served as a rest stop.

Today, some still hike it out of conviction, but it's also a beautiful nature walk to reach Chiang Mai's flagship attraction on foot. The most popular departure point is at the top of Suthep Road, behind the campus of the CMU / near the zoo. On the map below, also locate the “Mindfulness Hill” spot: it sets the tone.

The path is marked by strips of saffron fabric hung from the trees.

• Route & elevation: total distance ≈ 3 km and ~500 m cumulative elevation gain.
• To Wat Pha Lat : ~30–45 min climb, moderate elevation (sections with mixed roots/rock, slippery in wet weather).
• Continue to Doi Suthep : more sustained route then (allow ~2 hours more depending on pace). Possibility of going back down in songthaew from the temple.
• Variant : to go up in songthaew to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep and go down on foot via Pha Lat.

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep: the iconic temple

Perched above Chiang Mai at 1,046 m, the sanctuary houses a sacred reliquary and a golden chedi visible from the city on a clear day. The ascent is made either by the famous naga staircase (306 steps), either by the funicular.

The funicular is convenient if you're carrying a lot of luggage, have mobility issues, or are traveling with children, but you can expect queues in the middle of the day. If you take the stairs, it's easy to miss the small entrance ticket counter, despite a sign... because it's on your right just before you reach the upper courtyard at the top of the steps.

History of Phra That Doi Suthep and the Legend of the White Elephant

Tradition tells that at the end of the 14th century^e century, the monk Sumana Thera (Sumanathera) made a dream telling him where to find a Buddha relic — often described as a fragment ofscapulaGuided by this dream, he laid his hand on the sacred bone.

Originally from the kingdom of Sukhothai, Sumana Thera first presented the relic to his sovereign, Lue Thai. In the story, the relic is said to have previously manifested supernatural signs (eg. emit a glow, to duplicate, to move ou cure). But once in the possession of the king of Sukhothai, the hoped-for signs not occurring, he was skeptical and refused to keep it.

Sumana Thera then obtained Lue Thai's agreement to take the relic to Chiang Mai, near the king Kue Na, Lanna Kingdom, who showed a keen interest in it. It was there that, according to the story, the relic would have been duplicated : a part was embedded in the city at Wat Suan Dok, built to accommodate the venerable monk.

Wat Suan Dok.

The second relic was fixed on the back of a white elephant, released to "choose" the location of the sanctuary. The animal climbed the mountain and reportedly stopped at several places along the way, including the Wat Pha Lat, which would have served as a stage before the final climb to Doi Suthep. The story thus explains the presence of several sanctuaries on the mountain (some now in ruins).

Then he continued to a point where he trumpeted three times before kneeling and collapseThis sign was interpreted as the desired location for the reliquary: a first chedi is traditionally dated to 1383 (while the arrival of the relic in the kingdom is located around 1368–1369).

After the foundation, the site was redeveloped in XVI^e century : notably from 1538, when the chedi was enlarged to reach approx. 24 m in height, then came the addition of the viharns and cloister a few years later, and finally the famous naga staircase, generally associated with the middle of the 16th century^e (often indicated 1557). In the 20th century^e century, the builder-monk Khruba Siwichai began major renovation work from 1920 and then launched the access road modern: fine works 1934, inauguration on April 30, 1935, making the temple accessible to all.

What to see inside Wat Phra That Doi Suthep?

— The central part (cloister & chedi) —

The heart of the temple is formed by the cloister, surrounding the golden chedi in the center of the sanctuary. The tradition for praying here is to walk around it clockwise (called circumambulation). There are also annex rooms in the form of viharns, one on each side, where one can receive a blessing from a monk (a donation is appreciated, but not obligatory).

The cloister with arcades is lined with rows of Buddhas and small altars. It includes a gallery of murals (rather recent). Around the chedi, numerous statues are arranged under the galleries and around the low wall surrounding the chedi, with variations ranging from a marble Buddha to copies of the Emerald Buddha from Bangkok.

On site, official photographers always offer to take "THE" photo with the chedi in the background (typically couples, Thai families, who are fond of it), asking visitors to step aside for a few moments for the shot.

Regardless In season, the chedi is very photogenic; the contrast between its gilding and the blue sky is particularly striking on a clear day.

Good to know :

• For the photo Arrive just after opening or at the end of the day to enjoy the golden chedi without the crowds. In the middle of the day, take the stairs; the experience is better, and the funicular can sometimes be crowded.
• Proper behavior : shoulders and knees covered in the reliquary area; clothing is available at the main entrance if needed. Remove shoes to enter the sacred spaces in the center.
• Avoid crowding at the entrance : if you already have a suitable outfit, use the rear access ramp from the cloister (there is a rack for putting shoes) to avoid the possible traffic jam at the main entrance.

— Teak Pavilion & other outbuildings —

Walking around the courtyard around the cloister, you will come across several outbuildings. To the right towards the belvedere, there is a teak pavilion carved in the Lanna style (black and gold lacquer, chiseled pediments), guarded by makaras (aquatic monsters combining crocodile, fish and dragon).

At the back of the temple, facing the ramp mentioned in my insert, one can see a large golden bell offered by the king Kawilorot Suriyawong in 1860. Shortly after there is a magnificent bougainvillea, often in full bloom. Continuing the tour, we reach theubosot (ordination hall), which is closed to visitors. Next to it, there is a café, some snacks, and a souvenir shop.

Back to the area at the top of thenaga staircase, a white elephant sculpture recalls the legend; below, a small structure houses funeral urns.

— Belvedere and esplanade —

Another major asset of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep: the point of view across the entire Chiang Mai plain. Visibility varies depending on the season and time of day, but on a clear, clear day, the mountain range can be seen on the other side of the valley (towards Mae Kampung) which separates the province of Chiang Mai from that of Lampang.

The old town is clearly visible in the middle with the mountains in the background.

Two main spots offer views of the city. Descending to a terrace below, you first walk along a flower-filled area (often artificial, but the whole thing remains pretty) with a pond. On the right, a discreet access leads to a platform located behind the wooden pavilion.

Besides the view of the valley, we can clearly see the traffic of theairport at the foot of the mountain and if the sun is beating down, you will find a little shade in the form of a DINING (open pavilion) in carved teak decorated with a frieze of the 12 signs of the zodiac, added recently.

The temple lives and evolves : besides this recent sala, the main esplanade (another point of view) presents a statue of the Standing Buddha in wood, under a shelter which is also decorative in wood. On the side of theubosot, another representation of the Buddha appears in the form of bas-relief made of wood, in a lying position.

Weather / season : mist or smoke possible at the viewpoint depending on the period (especially during burning, approx. Feb.–Apr.); view often clearer after rain. To give you an idea of ​​the difference, I'm putting two photos, on the left a very clear view vs. on the right, a puree...

— Meditation Center —

The temple grounds, surrounded by forest, host a meditation center which offers retreats for all levels and accessible to foreigners (information available here in English).

— The village, market and stalls —

At the foot of the temple a real village has developed where the merchants who officiate along the road and at the foot of the steps have elected domicile. You will find there stands with various snacks, fruits, desserts or even coffees, but also souvenir shops and crafts: ideal for a little shopping before/after the visit.

In the middle of the village, a free parking is planned if you access Doi Suthep by car. Around, clothing shops, restaurants and, at background (with parking spaces additional), bathroom (paid: 5 ฿).

Things to see along the way (between Doi Suthep and Bhubing)

• Phra Ruesi Cave : small cave-sanctuary accessible from the roadside (small parking area). I have never stopped there yet; according to the photos, there is an altar and a spirit house at the entrance - the place probably served as a hermitage.
• Photo stop “view of the chedi” : right on the side of the road, there is a specific spot with a beautiful view of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep below. There are no facilities or parking: you have to squeeze in tightly against the railing, trying not to encroach too much on the road.

Bhubing Palace & Royal Gardens

Continuing ~4 km beyond the temple, we reach the entrance of the Bhubing Palace (Bhubing Rajanives), royal winter residence. Built in 1961 Located on the heights of Chiang Mai to enjoy the fresh mountain air, the estate was used to accommodate the king and his entourage during trips to the region, as well as to house foreign dignitaries and royal families.

Today, when the royal family is not staying there, a good part of the landscaped gardens opens to the public: rose gardens (the fame of the place), greenhouses, European-style flowerbeds and numerous species uncommon in Thailand. The interior of the buildings cannot be visited: they remain private and are still used occasionally.

count 30 min for a quick tour (up to 1 p.m. while strolling), especially since some areas are regularly inaccessible. The marked circuit begins near the entrance, with several building complexes (including a pavilion reminiscent of a temple) near a pond filled with koi carp.

The continuation crosses a forest area which goes up to the tank (I don't know if it's just decorative or if it supplies the palace with water). In the middle of this forest, there is a small aquarium where a rare species of salamander is presented. In early winter (November–December), it is not uncommon to have your head in the clouds or fog this way.

From the reservoir, we can see one of the stilt house serving as guest accommodation. Built with wooden logs, it clearly gives it the appearance of a mountain chalet. Moreover, other houses of this type were added in the 90s, using wood eucalyptus.

The banks are lined with flower beds that change according to the season. And it varies greatly; you can come across a particularly colorful and well-stocked garden, or a more simply flower-filled path. In January, you will find a small group of cherry trees in bloom in this corner.

Higher up is the residential part properly speaking: it is often closed to the public, but when it is open you can see the exterior of the main residence and the surrounding gardens.

The main building of the palace was built in a style that blends northern Thai architecture with contemporary influences of its time, officially called "ruen mu," a term that translates to "group of houses." Built on stilts, this U-shaped dwelling consists of an upper floor that is the official residence of the royal family, while the ground floor houses the living quarters of the royal suite.

Further back stands a small pavillon serving as a private sanctuary (type viharn) called Hor Phra.

Otherwise, all that remains is to go back down a road that leads back to the entrance to complete the loop. On the bend just after the reservoir area, don't miss theimpressive giant bamboo planted by the Queen Mother more than thirty years ago. This species can reach 30 to 40 meters in height with stems that can be between 20 and 30 cm in diameter on average.

Following the same principle as the temple below, shops have been set up opposite the palace entrance with a few parking spaces. You will also find something to eat here if you haven't already.

Doi Pui & Hmong villages

Continuing from Doi Suthep, if you continue the road beyond the Bhubing Palace, you enter the territory of the Doi Pui, who is the neighboring summit from the same massif (approx. 1,685 m, a little higher than Doi Suthep). People come here in particular for these Hmong villagesincluding Khun Chang Khian which I recommend. It also has a mountain atmosphere, surrounded by forest, a hike to its summit possible and even a small ruin away from the road.

From Wat Phra That Doi Suthep you will see the Red Songthaew offer to take you there, highlighting trees in bloom. This is what you can see there in the right season, between the end of December and the end of January, the famous ornamental cherry blossoms, similar to the sakura of Japan.

• Hmong villages — Doi Pui Village (“showcase” version with small museum/garden, crafts, cafes) and Khun Chang Khian (coffee plantations, mountain atmosphere). You will find some crafts in the form of embroidery and small jewelry, clothing. The village really bathes in a fairly preserved rural atmosphere, with part of the population still wearing traditional clothing on a daily basis.
• Nature & Views — the small wooded road leading to the village crosses a pine forest and undergrowth, you have a first viewpoint overlooking the Doi Pui Village then a belvedere over the valley from one of the cafes Khun Chang Khian.
• Thai "Sakura" — flowering of Himalayan cherry trees (Prunus cerasoides) Above all end of Dec.–Jan. (window varies depending on the year, sometimes until early February). The groves around Khun Chang Khian are particularly popular.

For hiking details, flower season and precise access : → see my redesign dedicated to Doi Pui.

Viewpoints on the way up (route 1004)

In addition to the views discussed in the previous sections, the rise of the 1004 route offers several areas with “Viewpoints” dotted along the mountain. They allow for nice breaks before the temple.

Where to stop?

• Viewpoints (x2) : a first spot with shelter allows a partial view on the city just before the Wat Pha Lat ; a second, higher, shortly before Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, with a roadside widening and clear view.
• Chaloem Phra Kiat Pavilion Viewpoint : the "main" viewpoint, which is located between the two I just mentioned. It consists of a small parking area and a platform offering a very clear view in Chiang Mai. Especially on weekends, you'll always find fruit/drink/snack vendors hanging around and often a local artist doing portraits.

Viewpoint from Chaloem Phra Kiat Pavilion Viewpoint.

When to go?

• Morning : sun opposite (towards the east) → possible backlighting and mist depending on the season.
• Late afternoon : sun in the back/side → warm light, well-lit city (often the best time slot). Coming back down late, pretty night view.
• After the rain : clearer air, sharper views. Burning season (~Feb.–Apr.): Reduced visibility.

Safety : park only in the designated areas (not on a bend), turn off the engine, watch out for buses and songthaews in maneuver.

Practical information – Routes & durations

• How to get there : in songthaew red (shared) — approx. 30–40 ฿/pers. to Doi Suthep, direct route (no stops). For a personalized tour, negotiation possible at the monument Khruba Siwichai, in front, there CMU or at the foot of the temple. By scooter: winding road 1004, sometimes heavy traffic; drive on the left, tighten your trajectory and anticipate vehicles cutting corners. Also watch out for bicycles and hikers (some Monk's Trail passages along the road).
• Typical durations :
  • Short loop (2–3 hrs) : Wat Pha Lat + Doi Suthep.
  • Half day (4–5 hrs) : waterfalls + Wat Pha Lat + Doi Suthep.
  • Day (6–8 hrs) : add Bhubing (if open) + Doi Pui.
• Recommended direction of visit : Waterfalls → Wat Pha Lat → Doi Suthep → Bhubing (option) → Doi Pui.
• Little tips : mosquito repellent depending on the season; proper clothing (shoulders/knees); temple parking lot often busy in the middle of the day; do not block the road during photo stops.