If you're planning a trip to Thailand, and more specifically to Chiang Mai, you've probably heard the name Doi Suthep. The term "doi" refers to a mountain (mostly in northern Thailand), here the one that dominates the city of Chiang Mai from a height of 1,676 m.
For many, this name mainly evokes the famous golden temple, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep , but there is actually much more to discover, especially since the whole area, including the temple, is part of the Doi Suthep–Pui National Park.
It's a destination equally popular with Thais themselves and tourists passing through . People appreciate the fresher mountain air, and it's a simple option for escaping the hustle and bustle of the city.
Between spectacular panoramas, waterfalls, more intimate sanctuaries like Wat Pha Lat and Hmong villages nestled in its reliefs, Doi Suthep holds many surprises for those who take the time to explore it.
Nature and waterfalls of Doi Suthep–Pui Park
Mountains inevitably bring nature into the picture. Doi Suthep-Pui National Park boasts several waterfalls and hiking trails accessible right from the foot of the mountain.
Huay Kaew Waterfall & Nature Trail
Easy to access and, above all, free (unlike the waterfall mentioned just after), this small waterfall next to the zoo, not far from the entrance to Chiang Mai University (CMU), is a perfect appetizer to start the visit to Doi Suthep.
Huay Kaew waterfall is accessible in a few minutes from the road, then a small path ( Huai Kaeo Nature Trail ) follows the stream in the shade of the trees. Due to its proximity to the town center, it's quite popular, including with locals. It's still a pleasant spot to relax, but not necessarily ideal if you're looking for peace and quiet.
- Directions : just after the entrance to Chiang Mai Zoo.
- Temps : 10–15 min to the main waterfall; possible extensions along the stream (free return).
- Level : very easy, short path; rocks sometimes slippery depending on the season on the upper part.
- Season : modest flow in the dry season; prettier after rain (access occasionally limited depending on the day).
Around the waterfall, at the parking lot, the place is lively: along Route 1004 which climbs up the mountain, there is the monument dedicated to the monk Khruba Siwichai (I talk about it in my article on the temples to see in the old town ) and, just next to it uphill, the Wat Sri Soda (Phra Aram Luang) , an active temple.
If you don't yet have your mount for the day, you can continue your visits to Doi Suthep by taking a red songthaew : a departure station is located here.
Montha Than Waterfall & Nature Trail
Located about 3 km after the Khruba Siwichai monument, on Route 1004, a small road on the right leads to the park post and then to the waterfall (parking, camping area, tables, toilets). The waterfall consists of several levels: the first is about 200 m from the parking lot, and a small loop trail goes into the forest if you want to continue the walk to the others.
It's not the most spectacular waterfall, but it's a great way to experience the forest—ideal for families. Note: the park has been upgraded to Category 1 , resulting in a lower entrance fee (quite rare and worth mentioning).
- Directions : Route 1004 → right turnoff signposted “Montha Than Waterfall”, park checkpoint then parking lot.
- Path : short loop (~1,3 km / ~30–40 min) in the shade, sometimes slippery ground after rain.
- Hours : in general 8:30–16:30 (varies depending on season/weather).
Wat Pha Lat: a sanctuary in the jungle
For a long time, Wat Pha Lat was a hidden temple in the middle of the forest: everyone headed straight for Wat Phra That Doi Suthep without stopping (including local agencies). Word of mouth and social media have since popularized this forest temple, dedicated to meditation.
It always feels strange to talk about it, knowing that just a few years ago, the parking lot was empty, there was hardly anyone there, and one of the buildings was in ruins. Its success is understandable: it remains a peaceful stopover before the hustle and bustle of Doi Suthep. Despite being more crowded than before, the temple retains a Zen atmosphere linked to its setting.
Among the visible buildings, a recently constructed cloister is immediately apparent upon entry . In addition to providing shade and shelter from the rain, it acts as a buffer zone with a pleasant lawn before reaching the rear of the site. At the rear, bordering the forest, a small wooden pavilion houses a seated Buddha statue.
Next to it, you come to an old chedi covered in moss and ferns; its dark stone contrasts sharply with the gleaming gold of the grand chedi of Doi Suthep, higher up the mountain. Finally, on the other side of the chedi, there is one last building whose interior cannot be visited, facing a courtyard presumably used to accommodate worshippers for certain ceremonies (that's my deduction...).
Typically, in front of the chedi, there is a small viharn housing several Buddha images. Apart from the motifs decorating the posts and the ceiling, the whole remains simple: this is a characteristic of forest temples, which prioritize contemplation rather than ostentation.
In front of the viharn, a small shaded courtyard leads to a bamboo-lined staircase guarded at its base by two lions. Next comes an intermediate platform, then another staircase, this time lined with nagas , which leads to the edge of the waterfall located within the temple grounds.
One of the features that distinguishes this place, besides the surrounding forest, is the stream that flows through the site and forms a waterfall right in the heart of the temple. The place is peaceful, and from this area, you can partially see Chiang Mai. By the way, please remember that this is a meditation center: be discreet.
A path runs alongside the river, with a few improvements: the most visible is an arched facade (the building was once in ruins), in reality a cavity housing Buddha statues. Crossing a small, recently renovated, century-old bridge, you reach a meditation platform in the shade of banana trees.
From here, you'll notice the trail continues its descent, but if you go the other way, the climb continues. This is because this path is part of the " Monk's Trail ." For the more adventurous, it's possible to reach Wat Pha Lat on foot from Chiang Mai University: the trail passes by the temple before continuing higher up towards Wat Phra That Doi Suthep.
Monk's Trail
The monks' path was once used not only by religious figures, but also by worshippers wishing to reach Wat Phra That Doi Suthep before the road existed. Wat Pha Lat then served as a rest stop.
Today, some still walk it out of conviction, but it's also a beautiful nature walk to reach Chiang Mai's main attraction. The most common starting point is at the top of Suthep Road , behind the CMU campus /near the zoo. On the map below, also look for the "Mindfulness Hill" marker: it sets the tone.
The path is marked by strips of saffron fabric hung from the trees.
- Route & elevation: total distance ≈ 3 km and ~500 m cumulative elevation gain.
- To Wat Pha Lat : ~30–45 min climb, moderate elevation (sections with mixed roots/rock, slippery in wet weather).
- Continue to Doi Suthep : more sustained route then (allow ~2 hours more depending on pace). Possibility of going back down in songthaew from the temple.
- Variant : to go up in songthaew to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep and go down on foot via Pha Lat.
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep: the iconic temple
Perched above Chiang Mai at 1,046 m, the sanctuary houses a sacred reliquary and a golden chedi visible from the city on a clear day. The ascent can be made either by the famous Naga Stairway (306 steps) or by funicular.
The funicular is convenient if you're carrying a lot of luggage, have mobility issues, or are traveling with children, but you can expect queues in the middle of the day. If you take the stairs, it's easy to miss the small entrance ticket counter, despite a sign... because it's on your right just before you reach the upper courtyard at the top of the steps.
History of Phra That Doi Suthep and the Legend of the White Elephant
Tradition tells that at the end of the 14th century , the monk Sumana Thera (Sumanathera) had a dream indicating where to find a relic of the Buddha — often described as a fragment of shoulder blade . Guided by this dream, he laid hands on the sacred bone.
Originally from the kingdom of Sukhothai , Sumana Thera first presented the relic to his ruler, Lue Thai . According to the account, the relic had previously manifested supernatural signs (e.g., emitting a glow , duplicating itself , moving , or healing ). However, once in the possession of the Sukhothai king, the hoped-for signs did not occur, and he became skeptical and refused to keep it.
Sumana Thera then obtained Lue Thai's permission to take the relic to Chiang Mai , to King Kue Na of the Lanna kingdom , who showed great interest in it. It was there, according to the story, that the relic duplicated itself : one part was enshrined in the city at Wat Suan Dok , built to house the venerable monk.
The second relic was placed on the back of a white elephant , which was released to "choose" the site for the shrine. The animal climbed the mountain and is said to have stopped along the way at several locations, including Wat Pha Lat , which served as a rest stop before the final ascent to Doi Suthep. This account explains the presence of several shrines on the mountain (some of which are now in ruins).
Then he continued to a point where he trumpeted three times before kneeling and collapsing . This sign was interpreted as the desired location for the reliquary: a first chedi there is traditionally dated to 1383 (while the arrival of the relic in the kingdom is placed around 1368–1369 ).
After its founding , the site was redesigned in the 16th century : notably from 1538 onwards , when the chedi was enlarged to reach approximately 24 meters in height, followed a few years later by the addition of the viharns and the cloister, and finally the famous Naga Stairway , generally attributed to the mid-16th century (often cited as 1557 ). In the 20th century , the monk and builder Khruba Siwichai initiated major renovations starting in 1920 and then launched the modern access road : construction completed in late 1934 , and the inauguration on April 30, 1935 , making the temple accessible to all.
What to see inside Wat Phra That Doi Suthep?
— The central part (cloister & chedi) —
The heart of the temple is formed by the cloister , surrounding the golden chedi at the center of the sanctuary. The tradition for praying here is to walk around it clockwise (a procession known as circumambulation). There are also adjoining rooms in the form of viharns , one on each side, where one can receive a blessing from a monk (a donation is appreciated, but not required).
The arcaded cloister is lined with rows of Buddhas and small altars. It includes a gallery of (relatively recent) murals . Around the chedi, numerous statues are arranged under the galleries and around the low wall encircling the chedi, with variations ranging from a marble Buddha to copies of the Emerald Buddha in Bangkok.
On site, official photographers always offer to take "THE" photo with the chedi in the background (typically Thai couples and families, who are fond of it), asking visitors to step aside for a few moments for the shot.
Whatever the season, the chedi is very photogenic; the contrast between its gold and the blue sky is particularly striking in clear weather.
Good to know :
- For the photo Arrive just after opening or at the end of the day to enjoy the golden chedi without the crowds. In the middle of the day, take the stairs; the experience is better, and the funicular can sometimes be crowded.
- Proper behavior : shoulders and knees covered in the reliquary area; clothing is available at the main entrance if needed. Remove shoes to enter the sacred spaces in the center.
- Avoid crowding at the entrance : if you already have a suitable outfit, use the rear access ramp from the cloister (there is a rack for putting shoes) to avoid the possible traffic jam at the main entrance.
— Teak Pavilion & other outbuildings —
Walking around the courtyard surrounding the cloister, you will come across several annex buildings. To the right, towards the belvedere, there is a teak pavilion carved in the Lanna style (black and gold lacquer, chiseled pediments), guarded by makaras (aquatic monsters combining crocodile, fish and dragon).
At the rear of the temple, opposite the ramp mentioned in my note, you can see a large golden bell, a gift from King Kawilorot Suriyawong in 1860. A short distance beyond is a magnificent bougainvillea, often in full bloom. Continuing the circuit, you reach the ubosot (ordination hall), which is closed to visitors. Next to it are a café, some snacks, and a souvenir shop.
Returning to the area at the top of the Naga stairs , a white elephant sculpture recalls the legend; below it, a small structure houses funerary urns.
— Belvedere and esplanade —
Another major advantage of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is the view over the entire Chiang Mai plain. Visibility varies depending on the season and time of day, but on a clear day, you can see the mountain range on the other side of the valley (towards Mae Kampong ) that separates Chiang Mai province from Lampang province.
Two main spots offer views of the city. Descending to a terrace below, you first walk along a flower-filled area (often artificial, but the whole thing remains pretty) with a pond. On the right, a discreet access leads to a platform located behind the wooden pavilion.
Besides the view over the valley, you can clearly see the airport traffic at the foot of the mountain and if the sun is beating down, you will find some shade in the form of a recently added carved teak sala (open pavilion) decorated with a frieze of the 12 signs of the zodiac.
The temple is alive and evolving : in addition to this recent sala, the main esplanade (another viewpoint) features a standing wooden Buddha statue under a decorative wooden shelter. Near the ubosot , another representation of the Buddha appears as a wooden bas-relief , depicting him reclining.
Weather/Season : Mist or smoke is possible at the viewpoint depending on the time of year (especially during controlled burns, around February–April); the view is often clearer after rain. To give you an idea of the difference, I've included two photos: on the left, a clear view vs. on the right, a foggy mess…
— Meditation Center —
The temple grounds, surrounded by forest, house a meditation center that offers retreats for all levels and is accessible to foreigners ( information available here in English ).
— The village, market and stalls —
At the foot of the temple, a veritable village has sprung up, where merchants have set up shop along the road and at the foot of the steps . You'll find stalls offering a variety of snacks , fruits, desserts, and cafes, as well as souvenir and craft shops: ideal for a bit of shopping before or after your visit.
In the middle of the village, there is free parking if you are coming to Doi Suthep by car. Around it, there are clothing shops, restaurants and, at the back (with additional parking spaces ), toilets ( fee: 5 ฿ ).
Things to see along the way (between Doi Suthep and Bhubing)
- Phra Ruesi Cave : small cave-sanctuary accessible from the roadside (small parking area). I have never stopped there yet; according to the photos, there is an altar and a spirit house at the entrance - the place probably served as a hermitage.
- Photo stop “view of the chedi” : right on the side of the road, there is a specific spot with a beautiful view of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep below. There are no facilities or parking: you have to squeeze in tightly against the railing, trying not to encroach too much on the road.
Bhubing Palace & Royal Gardens
Continuing approximately 4 km beyond the temple, you reach the entrance to Bhubing Palace (Bhubing Rajanives), the royal winter residence. Built in 1961 on the hills above Chiang Mai to take advantage of the fresh mountain air, the estate served to accommodate the king and his entourage during trips to the region, as well as to house foreign dignitaries and royal families.
Today, when the royal family is not in residence, a large part of the landscaped gardens is open to the public: rose gardens (for which the place is renowned), greenhouses, European-style flowerbeds, and numerous species uncommon in Thailand. The interiors of the buildings are not open to visitors: they remain private and are still used only occasionally.
Allow 30 minutes for a quick tour (up to an hour for a leisurely visit), especially since some areas are regularly inaccessible. The marked trail begins near the entrance, with several groups of buildings (including a pavilion reminiscent of a temple) near a pond filled with koi carp.
The path continues through a wooded area that leads up to the reservoir (I don't know if it's purely decorative or if it actually supplies the palace with water). In the middle of this forest, there's a small aquarium displaying a rare species of salamander. In early winter (November–December), it's not uncommon to have cloud cover or fog around here.
From the reservoir, you can see one of the stilt houses used as guest accommodation. Built with wooden logs, it clearly has the look of a mountain chalet. In fact, other houses of this type were added in the 90s, using eucalyptus wood.
The riverbanks are lined with flowerbeds that change with the seasons. And it varies greatly; you might stumble upon a particularly colorful and lush garden, or a more simply flower-lined path. In January, you'll find a small group of cherry trees in bloom in this area.
Higher up is the residential part proper: it is often closed to the public , but when it is open you can see the outside of the main residence and the surrounding gardens.
The main building of the palace was built in a style that blends northern Thai architecture with contemporary influences of its time, officially called "ruen mu," a term that translates to "group of houses." Built on stilts, this U-shaped dwelling consists of an upper floor that is the official residence of the royal family, while the ground floor houses the living quarters of the royal suite.
Further back stands a small pavilion serving as a private sanctuary ( viharn type ) called Hor Phra.
Otherwise, all that remains is to descend via a road that leads back to the entrance to complete the loop. In the bend just after the reservoir area, don't miss the impressive giant bamboo planted by the queen mother over thirty years ago. This species can reach 30 to 40 meters in height, with stems averaging between 20 and 30 cm in diameter.
Following the same principle as the temple below, shops have been set up opposite the palace entrance with a few parking spaces. You will also find something to eat here if you haven't already.
Doi Pui & Hmong villages
Continuing from Doi Suthep, if you follow the road past Bhubing Palace, you enter the territory of Doi Pui , the neighboring peak in the same mountain range (approximately 1,685 m , slightly higher than Doi Suthep). People come here particularly for its Hmong villages , including Khun Chang Khian, which I highly recommend. It also offers a mountain atmosphere, surrounded by forest, with the possibility of hiking to its summit and even a small ruin tucked away from the road.
From Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, you'll see red songthaews offering rides, highlighting the blossoming trees. This is what you can see there during the right season, between late December and late January: the famous ornamental cherry trees in bloom , similar to the sakura of Japan.
- Hmong villages Doi Pui Village (“showcase” version with small museum/garden, crafts, cafes) and Khun Chang Khian (coffee plantations, mountain atmosphere). You will find some crafts in the form of embroidery and small jewelry, clothing. The village really bathes in a fairly preserved rural atmosphere, with part of the population still wearing traditional clothing on a daily basis.
- Nature & Views — the small wooded road leading to the village crosses a pine forest and undergrowth, you have a first viewpoint overlooking the Doi Pui Village then a belvedere over the valley from one of the cafes Khun Chang Khian.
- Thai "Sakura" — flowering of Himalayan cherry trees (Prunus cerasoides) Above all end of Dec.–Jan. (window varies depending on the year, sometimes until early February). The groves around Khun Chang Khian are particularly popular.
For hiking details, flower season and precise access : → see my dedicated Doi Pui redesign.
Viewpoints on the way up (route 1004)
In addition to the viewpoints mentioned in previous sections, the ascent via Route 1004 offers several viewpoints dotting the mountainside. These provide pleasant rest stops before reaching the temple.
Where to stop?
- Viewpoints (x2) : a first spot with shelter allows a partial view on the city just before the Wat Pha Lat ; a second, higher, shortly before Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, with a roadside widening and clear view.
- Chaloem Phra Kiat Pavilion Viewpoint : the "main" viewpoint, which is located between the two I just mentioned. It consists of a small parking area and a platform offering a very clear view in Chiang Mai. Especially on weekends, you'll always find fruit/drink/snack vendors hanging around and often a local artist doing portraits.
When to go?
- Morning : sun opposite (towards the east) → possible backlighting and mist depending on the season.
- Late afternoon : sun in the back/side → warm light, well-lit city (often the best time slot). Coming back down late, pretty night view.
- After the rain : clearer air, sharper views. Burning season (~Feb.–Apr.): Reduced visibility.
Safety : park only in designated areas (not on a bend), turn off the engine, watch out for buses and songthaews maneuvering.
Practical information – Routes & durations
- How to get there : located on songthaew red (shared) — approx. 30–40 ฿/pers. to Doi Suthep, direct route (no stops). For a personalized tour, negotiation possible at the monument Khruba Siwichai, in front, there CMU or at the foot of the temple. By scooter: winding road 1004, sometimes heavy traffic; drive on the left, tighten your trajectory and anticipate vehicles cutting corners. Also watch out for bicycles and hikers (some Monk's Trail passages along the road).
- Typical durations :
- Short loop (2–3 hrs) : Wat Pha Lat + Doi Suthep.
- Half day (4–5 hrs) : waterfalls + Wat Pha Lat + Doi Suthep.
- Day (6–8 hrs) : add Bhubing (if open) + Doi Pui.
- Recommended direction of visit : Waterfalls → Wat Pha Lat → Doi Suthep → Bhubing (option) → Doi Pui.
- Little tips : mosquito repellent depending on the season; proper clothing (shoulders/knees); temple parking lot often busy in the middle of the day; do not block the road during photo stops.
