Sangkhlaburi: a break on the shores of Lake Khao Laem, between Thailand and Burma

Located on the banks of the great Khao Laem reservoir, very close to the Burmese border, Sangkhlaburi seduces with its peaceful atmosphere, its emblematic Mon bridge and its submerged temples.

While the province and its main town, Kanchanaburi, are often on the visitor itinerary, Sangkhlaburi, more isolated, is not really on the classic Thailand tours. It takes an additional 3 hours to drive from Kanchanaburi to reach this small town located on the edge of the lake formed by the construction of the Vajiralongkorn Dam, practically stuck to the Burmese border.

It's precisely this remoteness that gives it its charm. It's home to a local life marked by Mon culture, and some unique places like the wooden bridge crossing the lake between the small town of Sangkhlaburi and the Mon village, commonly known as Wangka. It's obviously a destination that requires time, but for those who like to get off the beaten track, it's a truly different part of Thailand, where time seems to pass more slowly.

What to see and do in Sangkhlaburi

It took me more than ten years to return to Sangkhlaburi. My previous articles, written in 2010, were more of a photo "report" than a real practical guide. This new visit was the perfect opportunity to update my impressions and images and add some useful tips.

And even though Sangkhlaburi remains off-center, it has plenty to offer: starting with its long wooden bridge connecting the town to the Mon village on the other side of the lake. The lake itself is a separate attraction, bordered by mountains and crossed by boat to reach, among other things, ancient temples in the now-flooded valley. The peculiarity is that some are partially visible and submerged depending on the water level.

It turns out that while foreigners remain rare, Thais can turn out in large numbers during major holidays. At these times, as during winter weekends when the weather is ideal, the city and its bridge can be more lively. The rest of the time, the atmosphere becomes peaceful again and time passes more easily in slow motion.

In addition to the bridge and the lake, the city center also offers a number of interesting sightseeing opportunities. Just before arriving, for example, you'll come across Wat Somdet, which is impossible to miss since it covers both sides of the road.

On one side you will have a line of Buddha statues and on the other, a small Burmese-style chedi, with a large reclining Buddha sheltered under a roof just behind the temple itself, visible from the national road. The name being identical to the abandoned temple on the hill by the lake (I will talk about it later), this is most likely its “new” version, which appeared after the dam was filled.

On the entertainment side, on Saturdays from 14 p.m. to 22 p.m., the streets around the municipal market become pedestrianized for Walking Street: a nice little night market that takes over from the daytime hustle and bustle. But even during the day, it remains photogenic and, like any market, deserves a little visit, especially since here in Sangkhlaburi, you'll be treated to a small ethnic melting pot.

Uttamanuson bridge: the Môn bridge

When the dam was built in 1984 and the valley was flooded, a way had to be found to connect the small Thai town to the other bank, where many Mon refugees from Burma lived, finding themselves isolated.

Under the leadership of the venerable local monk, Luang Pho Uttama, the Mon community and the Karen inhabitants of Sangkhlaburi mobilized between 1986 and 1987 to build this impressive structure, nearly 450 meters long, made entirely of wood, making it the longest of its kind in Thailand. Initially conceived as a simple means of maintaining the link after the filling of the Vajiralongkorn reservoir, it has become the longest wooden bridge in Thailand and a strong symbol of identity. It does not reach the length of the famous U Bein Bridge, near Mandalay in Burma, but its height, adapted to the variations in the level of the lake, makes it particularly unique.

View of the bridge in 2010.

Panorama of the Mon bridge and Sangkhlaburi lake

For more than twenty-five years, the bridge — also called Uttamanuson Bridge in honor of the monk — has withstood the vagaries of the weather. But in the summer of 2013, an exceptional flood swept away a central section of about sixty meters. The cut was brutal, and the inhabitants had to make do for a time with a temporary bamboo footbridge. It was finally rebuilt the following year in record time, thanks to the mobilization of the population and with the support of the army.

Today, this bridge remains much more than a simple footbridge: maintained by the Mon community, who see it as an act of merit and a duty of remembrance, it symbolically links two worlds and embodies both local solidarity, the memory of the founding monk and the union between two banks, two cultures and two histories.

Concretely, there are two ways to access the bridge (and I'm not talking about both banks). It all depends on where you're staying in Sangkhlaburi. If you're staying on the Sam Prasob side, access is directly from this street: that was my case about ten years ago, when I was sleeping at Sam Prasob Resort, just overlooking the bridge. If, on the other hand, you are staying further southeast, you will probably pass by the Red Bridge, a more modern concrete bridge which also provides access to the site. This is how I arrived during my last stay, staying at the Kingfisher House.

The “Red Bridge” leading to the Uttamanuson Bridge.

Beautiful view of the lake from the Sam Prasob Resort, with the red bridge below.

The view from the Red Bridge, with the riverbanks and the Mon Bridge in sight, already provides a beautiful first impression. It's best to go early in the morning: the mist, the sunrise light, and the still-sleepy atmosphere make the place magical. But above all, this is when one of the most memorable rituals takes place: the tak bat, the monks' alms collection.

Every day, as everywhere in Thailand, religious leaders go out to collect rice, fruit, and food. In Sangkhlaburi, the bridge itself becomes a stage for this ritual: locals line the bridge to perform their daily good deed.

Apart from this early morning moment, the bridge quickly returns to its calm: even during the peak local tourist season, you can cross it peacefully and enjoy the view of Vajiralongkorn Lake.

Mon Village (Wangka)

Mon village is located on the other side of the bridge and called Ban Wang Ka Lang, or more generally Wangka (This is actually the old name for the district as a whole). It is worth noting that the Mon are considered one of the first peoples to have settled in Southeast Asia, before the Thais who now dominate the country. They played an important role in the development of the culture and religion of Theravada Buddhism in Burma and Thailand.

As you cross the bridge, you immediately realize the attractiveness of the place: even before reaching the street that extends the wooden structure, you come across a few small shops set up at the end of the bridge and at its foot. From there, the bridge overlooks the village, which can be seen on both sides, with a few trees softening the overall effect.

Once past the large portico that marks the entrance to the Mon village, you emerge onto the sloping street that centers the morning's activity. This is where everything happens: the faithful coming to make their offerings meet Thai tourists looking for a souvenir.

There's a bit of everything here: souvenir shops, garlands of fabric, traditional Mon clothing, stalls selling fried snacks and kebabs, small local grocery stores, and not forgetting the old lady selling her fresh vegetables of the day. The atmosphere remains resolutely local, without it turning into a "tourist market."

By late morning, the street gradually empties, returning to a calmer rhythm—which makes sense, because once the tak bat is over, people disperse toward the lake or around Sangkhlaburi. I imagine that on weekdays and outside of the holiday season, it must often be like this, or even quieter.

Regarding the village itself, the architecture is not particularly highlighted (often the case in Thailand unfortunately), but many houses are still made of wood, some displaying the characteristics specific to the Mons, like this restaurant, Jok Nang Yong, popular for breakfast, which has a prominent niche on the 2nd floor serving as a space for the altar dedicated to the Buddha.

You can also see houses on stilts or floating ones. I never ventured much further than the area directly around the bridge because the rest, to me, looks like any other Thai village.

On the other hand, from my first time here, I headed towards Saphan Mai 2 Street (the 2nd on the right after the bridge). The idea was to reach an isolated area of ​​the village, to have a different view of the bridge and visit a street without the commercial aspect that comes with it. The latter is accessible via a small secondary wooden bridge. And as is often the case in these cases, as soon as you move away a little, it is immediately quieter.

I repeated the experience the next time but, due to lack of time (I had to get back to the hotel to enjoy breakfast before it was too late), I didn't go as far as the adjoining street, contenting myself with the view from this footbridge. I did, however, go back there during the day, just to have a different light from the somewhat "dull" morning appearance.

The view from the small bridge during the day. The Mon Bridge is visible in the background on the right.

From what I've seen on Google Maps, it's changed a lot, because back then, this particular area really had a country village feel, with traditional houses all along and a dirt road, which is no longer the case today.

Another notable development was that in 2010, I got up early to attend the tak bat in an almost silent atmosphere, where we came across a few villagers in simple clothing, sitting calmly by the side of the road with their baskets of offerings. It was the eve of the international New Year, and the atmosphere had something gentle and reverent about it.

The tak beats in sobriety in 2010.

But during my last visit, at the same time, I was treated to a completely different scene. As soon as I entered the Mon village, a dense crowd busied itself in the streets, the inhabitants – young and old – proudly wearing their traditional red and white clothes, with flower garlands in their hair, trays overflowing with sweets, drinks, and carefully wrapped offerings. Chairs lined the sidewalks, children carried tall flower baskets on their heads, and the monks, upon their arrival, were welcomed like rock stars.

An XXL version of the tak bat, festive and spectacular, a far cry from the sobriety I experienced last time. I can't say exactly if it became the norm at this time of year or if there was really something special about it that year, but everything suggests that it wasn't a morning like any other.

Wat Wang Wiwekaram

The village's main attraction is undoubtedly its temple, Wat Wang Wiwekaram, established in 1953. Its location was originally further south, but with the construction of the dam, it had to be moved higher up. The temple's former site can still be visited, as it has become the famous "underwater temple."

Wat Wang Wiwekaram was the living and preaching place of the monk Luang Pho Uttama, who arrived here alone at first. On the main part of the temple, there is a building that is out of the ordinary: surrounded by a cloister, its ubosot has an impressive roof, larger than the walls that support it. The interior is modern in itself, but you can see the body of the monk preserved in a glass reliquary, placed in the center of the sanctuary.

What also distinguishes the temple is the addition of a large golden chedi with a square base, named Chedi Puttha Khaya, built apart from the main part. When I last visited, it was undergoing renovation: the gilding had disappeared, leaving a rough white structure surrounded by bamboo scaffolding. Only the top, made of pure gold, retained its precious shine.

The Chedi is modeled after that of the Mahabodhi Temple in Bodhgaya (India), a major Buddhist site since it marks the place where Buddha attained enlightenment under the original Bodhi tree.

Guarded by two imposing Burmese lions (Singha, like the beer that made its logo), a staircase covered with an elegant wooden roof leads to the cloister surrounding the structure. The Burmese influence is immediately felt, giving the impression of being somewhere other than Thailand. From the back of the cloister, there is a partial view of the lake, but the best perspective is from the temple's latest addition.

By climbing a hill behind the main part, 1,5 km from the chedi, you reach the Phra Puttha Rup Ong Yai, the latest attraction. Still covered in scaffolding, we could make out an imposing golden Buddha in a seated position, installed on a large platform offering a sublime panorama of the lake and the Chedi Puttha Khaya which protrudes through the trees.

The superb view of the lake from this spot, with the chedi visible.

Phra Puttha Rup Ong Yai still under construction.

Stroll on the lake and its submerged temples

The vast reservoir at the foot of Sangkhlaburi was formed after the construction of the Vajiralongkorn Dam (named in honor of the then Crown Prince, now the current King Rama X). It is currently the largest artificial lake in the country at 388 km². While officially called "Vajiralongkorn Lake," it is sometimes referred to as "Khao Laem Lake" because it is surrounded by Khao Laem National Park.

One of the advantages of Sangkhlaburi is that the area's flagship tour—a boat tour of the submerged ruins of ancient temples—is well organized, with standardized prices. Boats are easily booked on site, usually from the pier at the foot of the Mon Bridge. In any case, boatmen will be waiting in front of the entrance and on the bridge to offer you the ride. You'll recognize them by the numbered bibs they wear.

What I did last time was to agree on a meeting time to be sure to have my boat at the time that suited me. Afterwards, there is normally plenty to do given the number of boats available, knowing that you can leave from the floating dock on the village side as well as from the one at the foot of the bridge on the Sangkhlaburi side.

Whether you choose a simple round trip to the ancient Wat Wang Wiwekaram (the main underwater temple), or the grand tour combining the three submerged temples and the lake's two other attractions, the Old City Gate on one side, and the Japanese Cliff on the other, the experience remains inexpensive for a group since you can take up to six passengers per boat.

And even though the temples are the stars, the walk itself is worth it, just for the scenery: life on the lake, a different perspective on the village, the surrounding hills, and the silhouettes of the temples emerging from the forests.

The Old City Gate

The first time, with Jitima, we were content to see the main submerged temple (I'll talk about it later). But this time, I wanted to try the full version. So we headed west of the lake, towards "The Old City Gate", which translates a bit quickly as "gates of the old city". The name is misleading: from what I was able to cross-check as information, it is not really an old entrance to Sangkhlaburi submerged under the waters.

Historically, the Three Pagodas Pass served as a passage between the kingdoms of Burma and Siam. Here, villagers say that an ancient military road allowed Burmese troops to cross the cliff from Huai Malai into Siam. It is therefore more of a "gateway to the country" than a true "city gate."

It is at the bend of a bend that we see the silhouette of the Old City Gate, today marked by a small sanctuary covered with a tin roof emerging from the waters. The walk is not limited to a simple crossing to reach the gate of the ancient city because the surrounding scenery is wild and the water acts here like a mirror, reflecting the rocks and vegetation in an almost perfect symmetry.

Among the garlands of marigold flowers (unfortunately artificial), we can still make out the remains of a small chedi. At its summit, a Buddha head that seems ancient—without really knowing if it was there originally, or if it was placed there to reinforce the sacred character of the place.

The 3 ancient temples

Of the three temples visible around the lake, two are regularly submerged.

1. “Underwater temple” (former Wat Wang Wiwekaram)

This is undoubtedly the most emblematic, so it's only natural to start with this one. Although it is simply called the "underwater temple," it is not the only one, but it is normally the one that corresponds to the location of the former Wat Wang Wiwekaram.

In 2010, the lake was so low that people were able to dock and enter the temple grounds. They disembarked near the old prayer tower, next to an arched building, probably administrative, before reaching the massive walls of the roofless ubosot. Inside, niches once decorated with statuettes can still be seen, now worn by time. An improvised altar has been placed in front of the Buddha's pedestal, a sign that the place remains sacred.

More recently, I saw it partially submerged: only the upper part was sticking out. It doesn't have the same effect at all, as much as it's cool to be able to go inside when the level allows it, you have to admit that underwater it gives a photogenic apocalyptic appearance.

A section of wall had collapsed some time ago, weakened by humidity and exposure to the elements. But rather than let the ruin crumble further, it was consolidated. This is the paradox: we maintain an abandoned building precisely because it has become a curiosity that we wish to preserve in its "visitable" ruined state. The restored area is easy to spot: the umbrella-shaped decorations above the windows have disappeared.

2. Wat Somdet: the temple on the hill

The second site is located opposite the previous one. Perched on a small rise, it is still above water but was abandoned due to lack of access road. Today, it is reached on foot via a long, renovated staircase, at the foot of which are vendors selling flowers, snacks, and sometimes cows grazing on the dry grass.

Inside, a Buddha statue protected by a tin roof and new tiles give the impression of a temple that is still active, even though no monks reside there anymore. Outside, however, nature is reclaiming its rights, with banyan trees spreading their roots into the masonry, gradually eating away at the walls.

3. Wat Sri Suwan (วัดศรีสุวรรณ)

We pass it on our way back to the starting point at the bridge, after visiting the Japanese Cliff, which I'll talk about later. Its location is marked by flags, which is fortunate, because on the day of my visit, the lake level was high: almost nothing was sticking out. According to the available photos, it's an entire rectangular structure, without a roof. Given the depth, there must have been at least ten meters of water that day to reach the ground.

This is all we will see of Wat Sri Suwan.

Japanese Cliff

The last point of interest on the lake, this time we head further east, not far from the Rantee Bridge, which runs along the main road to Sangkhlaburi. We reach what the locals call Phā Yipun – the “Japanese cliff”. On site, no explanation is given, but the name dates back to the Second World War: the Japanese army is said to have established a camp there during the construction of the railway between Kanchanaburi and Burma – which became the infamous death railway.

According to local accounts, the Japanese had begun building a bridge and were using this strategic passage to cross the Rantee River, before reaching the Three Pagodas Pass some twenty kilometers further north. The site actually consists of two sections of cliffs that form an angle.

To the right, the "Thai Cliff," with a metal staircase leading to a Buddha statue under an umbrella. At its feet, several statues and creatures linked to Thai mythology. Further left, the "Japanese Cliff" houses a Japanese-inspired Buddha statue. Opposite, another illustrious figure Sujata, the young woman who, according to tradition, offered a bowl of rice pudding to Gautama Siddhartha, ending his six years of asceticism before Enlightenment.

When the water is high, as it was when I visited, they are separated by the river; when it goes down, you can cross from one to the other, and some say you can still see the route of the old railway (an abandoned locomotive used to be there, but it has since disappeared).

Beneath the Japanese wall, a cave accessible only by diving adds to the mystery of the place. Long hidden by vegetation, this site was only discovered in 2015, and has since become a curiosity in its own right for visitors to the lake.

Around Sangkhlaburi

Leaving the center a little and expanding the perimeter of the visit, several interesting stops can be found in the surrounding area, between waterfalls, temples and even a border crossing full of history.

Three Pagoda Pass

Further north, just twenty kilometers from Sangkhlaburi, you arrive at the Three Pagoda Pass. The place has been a border crossing connecting Thailand and Burma for centuries. On the Thai side, it is marked by three small white pagodas, relatively modest in size but full of symbolism.

Historically, this passage has always been strategic, whether in times of war, or, as today, through trade and more friendly relations. Burmese armies crossed it several times during invasions of the Kingdom of Siam in the 1350th and 1767th centuries. These three aligned pagodas, which give their name to the site, are commemorative monuments of the Siamo-Burmese battle during the Ayutthaya period (XNUMX-XNUMX).

During World War II, it was through this pass that the Japanese established part of their logistics for building the Death Railway, linking Bangkok to Burma via Kanchanaburi. A small memorial altar remains next to the parking lot, with a piece of rail recalling this painful episode. In short, these three whitewashed stupas are a concentrated memory of conflicts, but also of the links between the two countries.

Today, the place is much more peaceful, almost too much so... It has an end-of-the-world feel, with the Burmese mountains rising on the other side, giving the place a unique atmosphere. Let's be realistic, it's clearly a more symbolic than visual stopover, attracting those who want to experience this border steeped in history.

For the record : The first time I came here, I had a moment of “bug” when I saw for the first time the new flag of Burma, without knowing that it had been changed only two months earlier! I had known the old one from having been to Rangoon two years before this visit to Sangkhlaburi. From a rather sober style (red and blue), we moved to a much more flashy version, almost “rasta”.

In 2010, with the new Burmese flag recently flying.

Normally, the border is open from 8 a.m. to 18 p.m. It is even possible to travel to Myanmar by obtaining a pass from the Sangkhla Buri immigration office (a fee of USD 10 applies), which allows you to visit Payathonzu, the city on the Burmese side (in Karen State). For example, you can admire the superb view of the surroundings by climbing the golden chedi Dhamma Giri Maha Zedi and visit its main temple, the Suwannagiri Monestary. There was also the possibility of having a drink on a rooftop, the Skybar, which included a duty-free shop.

Unfortunately, the civil war in Burma currently prevents any crossing of the border, which remains closed to ordinary people for the time being.

If you want to complete the visit of the premises, near the pass, there are two small waterfalls to see. The first, Nop Phiboon Waterfall, is barely off the main road, only 7 km from the three pagodas. Nothing exceptional, but a small wild corner, where I met a local woman doing her laundry the old-fashioned way, and it's free.

Just 10 minutes further, you also have the Takhian Thong Waterfall, which is part of a wildlife reserve, Thung Yai Naresuan Wildlife Sanctuary, which is Thailand's largest protected area. I hadn't visited because I didn't want to pay just for a small waterfall and I wanted to get back to Rantee Bridge, which serves as a popular sunset viewpoint, in time.

Stopping points around Vajiralongkorn Lake

Leaving the city behind and driving along Vajiralongkorn Lake, the road already offers beautiful panoramas. But it would be a shame to go straight ahead: several stops punctuate the journey, between waterfalls and viewpoints. Enough to transform a simple return to Kanchanaburi into a pleasant stroll punctuated by a few breaks.

Rantee Bridge

As I mentioned earlier, about fifteen kilometers before Sangkhlaburi (coming from Kanchanaburi), the Rantee Bridge is a popular spot at sunset. But even during the day, it offers a beautiful view of the mountains on one side and the floating houses on the other.

On the road to Kanchanaburi

On the way back, several stops punctuate the road which runs along Lake Vajiralongkorn for several dozen kilometers:

• Wat Ligia, a forest temple 25 km away, with its chedi Phra Borommathat Santitham Chedi which offers a partial view of the lake. There is also a cave, Tham Ligia, although I don't know how easy it is to access.
• Le Pom Pi's point of view, part of Khao Laem National Park (entrance fee 300 baht). The place also serves as a campsite, but you can enjoy a beautiful sunset over the lake. As I passed by quickly at the end of the day, I was able to negotiate to stop without paying the entrance fee.
• Le Khao Laem National Park : the main part of the park, located only 1 km from the viewpoint, houses the Ka Teng Cheng Waterfall.
• A little further on, two waterfalls mark the road. The first, Kroeng Krawia Waterfall, almost bordering the national road, is next to a forest temple (Samnak Pa Sunyataram). On the other side, a little further away, is the Dai Chong Thong Waterfall.

One last chedi for the road

To stay in the “along the water” atmosphere, you can also discover the Phra That Bo Ong Chedi, located in the village of Bo Ong, on the shores of Vajiralongkorn Lake. Its particularity: it is only accessible by boat. The pier, indicated only in Thai (ท่าลงเรือไปหมู่บ้านโบอ่อง, see its location), is located in an area near the dam where several floating hotels (rafts) are grouped together.

This Mon-style chedi is perched on a small limestone hill, surrounded by a water lily pond. Its setting reminds me of the pagoda of Kyauk Ka Lat in Hpa An, which we saw a few years earlier, precisely in the Burmese neighboring country.

How to get to Sangkhlaburi

Reaching Sangkhlaburi is worth it! The city is about 340 km from Bangkok, which isn't excessive, but unlike stops like Sukhothai, which easily fit into an itinerary between the capital and the north of the country, Sangkhlaburi is off the beaten track.

The road leading there is somewhat of a dead end, since beyond that, you are no longer in Thailand: you don't pass by chance, you really have to decide to go there. This is what makes it so charming—those who venture there discover a Thailand apart, far from the crowds and the traditional circuits.

From Bangkok

First you need to get to Kanchanaburi, which is easy since it's a classic destination from Bangkok (bus, minivans from Mo Chit or Sai Tai Mai, or even train). From there, you can take a minivan to the Kanchanaburi Bus Terminal (see its location).

To simplify and avoid juggling schedules, there is a bus + minivan combo departing directly from the Sai Tai Mai bus station. The journey takes approximately 6 hours with a stop in Kanchanaburi to change vehicles before continuing to Sangkhlaburi. There are departures every hour between 30:9 and 00:13 and the combo costs 00 baht. To book, I put the search tool below.

From Kanchanaburi

From Kanchanaburi town, buses and minivans reach Sangkhlaburi in approximately 3 to 30 hours. The journey follows the beautiful Route 4 mentioned in this article, which runs along part of Vajiralongkorn Lake. Buses depart from Kanchanaburi Bus Station, with several departures throughout the day.

By rental car or scooter

The most flexible option remains renting a car. This allows for multiple stops along the way, including those mentioned in this article. It takes about 5 hours to drive from Bangkok, and more like 6 hours by motorbike. From Kanchanaburi, it's 215 km and takes about 3 hours. Add half an hour by scooter or motorbike.

The road is generally in good condition, just a little more winding and mountainous on the last section, after Thong Pha Phum. By car, no problem. On two wheels, however, it's another story: while reaching Erawan from Kanchanaburi remains feasible, going all the way to Sangkhlaburi, with more than 200 km and a few bends at the end, is clearly the kind of long distance that I do not recommend in Thailand, especially without local driving experience. In any case, it is best to avoid driving at night, as the area is poorly lit and frequented by trucks.

If you want to drive in Thailand, I refer you to my dedicated article.

Where to stay in Sangkhlaburi

Sangkhlaburi may be neglected by international tourism, but it has plenty of accommodation options, from simple and inexpensive options to comfortable resorts overlooking the Mon Bridge. Here are some options we've tried and found:

Well-located hotels on the bridge side

• Sam Prasob Resort – A classic, with rooms directly overlooking the lake and a beautiful view of the bridge. Convenient for exploring the immediate surroundings on foot.
• Kingfisher House Sangkhlaburi – More intimate, the rooms are set in a real house with a garden, comfortable and in a quiet location, and all close to the bridge. A good alternative if you prefer a more family atmosphere.

Other good addresses

• Wangka Resort – Good value for money, modern, and partial lake view.
• Love Bridge House Resort – Very close to the bridge, quite simple and family-friendly.

Mon village side

• MonStay Resort – A great option right in the Mon district, perfect for soaking up the local atmosphere. Basic rooms but a unique location.

Where to eat in Sangkhlaburi

The city is not a major gastronomic capital, but there are some pleasant little places to vary between Thai cuisine, Mon cuisine and modern cafes.

• Ah Lay Lay (อาเลเล คาเฟ่ & พูลวิลลา สังขละบุรี) – A friendly café-restaurant, ideal for relaxing after sightseeing. The atmosphere is relaxed, with plenty of outdoor space. The menu offers simple but varied dishes, including the famous Thai barbecue (Mukata).
• Other suggestions – Around the Sangkhlaburi market, you will find many street food stalls, especially in the evening, as well as some simple but good restaurants like the Tum Aroi.

Practical advice

When to come to Sangkhlaburi?

The best season extends from November to February, during the cool season: the sky is clear, the mornings are pleasantly cool with generally a fog which brings a mystical touch and the temperatures remain bearable during the day.

• A quick note about freshness : Nights and mornings can be cooler than you might expect in Thailand (sometimes 15°C or even cooler in this mountainous region). Bring a light sweater or jacket.

From March to May, the heat is more oppressive, and from June to October, the monsoon allows for very green landscapes but the high level of the lake will prevent the submerged temples from being seen.

How long to stay?

It is possible to see the essential in a full day on site (sleeping the night before). But to really enjoy the lake and its surroundings, the special atmosphere of the city, two nights are not too many. This allows time to stroll, cross the bridge at different times of the day and explore the surrounding area (Khmer temples, waterfalls, etc.).

So yes, it's a destination that requires a bit of effort, but once there, you realize that the journey was worth it: Sangkhlaburi is like a break that few travelers take the time to see.