Ko Chang: 7 waterfalls to discover the whole island

Ko Chang is a large island on the east coast. I previously detailed the different beaches making up the island, in order to guide you in your choice of where to sleep in Ko Chang. This time, I want to address one aspect of the possible visits on the island, focusing on the different waterfalls, spread all around Ko Chang.

Ko Chang being mountainous, we find in fact several falls distributed around the island. A way to immerse yourself in the generous and dense nature of this multifaceted island. The best known of the waterfalls and in fact, the most visited is that of Khlong Phlu, located practically in the middle of the island, at the height of the beach of Klong Prao.

Its popularity is due to three main reasons. The first is that it is well laid out and therefore easy to access. Secondly, it is a large waterfall with natural pools. perfect for swimming. And finally, the waterfall flows almost all year round, unlike the smaller ones which will be dry during the Thailand summer (around February, March and April).

Which brings me to this question: When to visit the waterfalls to get the most out of them. And to that, as with all waterfalls in Thailand, I answer that the best time of year is the end of the rainy season, from October to the end of December. The waterfalls will then flow freely, without the inconvenience of finding yourself in a downpour.

Main beach of Ko Chang: White Sand Beach.

The photos in this article were mostly taken in late February during my first visit (meaning I've since been back, this time in early January). In other words, in the middle of the dry season. You'll quickly notice that this isn't ideal. The smaller falls will generally dry up starting in February, which is why most of them were dry when I was there. In addition, the natural pools at the foot of the falls are becoming shallower and the water is becoming cloudy because it's stagnant.

When the rainy season starts again in May, the falls come back to life. But the downside of this season is not just getting wet if it rains. This mainly concerns the smaller waterfalls, which have more limited facilities and therefore muddy and slippery paths. Not to mention possible flash floods and rivers that prevent any progress.

Despite the fact that the season was not ideal to illustrate these waterfalls, I wanted to see each one to show you here what it is. Clearly, some are better than others visually. It is also important to mention that many waterfalls depend on the Mu Ko Chang National Park (on which the island and part of the Trat region depend).

So if you want to save money and avoid the 200 Baht national park entrance fee, you can do so because not all of them are free. You will have the option to explore some of the falls for free and add a bit of adventure to your trip. your visit to Ko Chang.

Summarized on a map, here are the seven main waterfalls of Koh Chang. Three are free. Two have private access requiring a small payment to the owner where you park your scooter. And for the other two you have to pay the Mu Ko National Park entrance fee Chang.

Kai Bae Waterfall

I'll start with the one that was closest to my hotel and the one I visited first. This waterfall is relatively unknown, as it is not even listed on the maps you will find in hotels. As the name suggests, this waterfall is located near Kai Bae Beach.

To get there, take the path next to the 7-11, passing the Kaibae Meechai Elephant Camp that you can see from the road. At the end of the path, turn left and then the next right. You will then have to take a dirt road for 400 meters leading to a small unnamed resort offering bungalows for long-term rentals.

The waterfall is located in the jungle behind the land belonging to this property. You will see a sign anyway indicating that you cannot pass unless you pay a snack of 40฿, which includes the right to park if you arrive by scooter.

I appreciated the honesty of the lady managing the property, who had posted on the day of my visit that there was no water. So I went there knowingly and paid the 40 ฿. Note that when I went back here in early January to take more photos, another lady directly told me that there was no point in going there because there was already no water…

The waterfall is indicated by a small sign, making you pass in front of some of the bungalows and after 50 m, you enter the jungle. And there you are bathed in the direct atmosphere.

The path is narrow, but you can't get lost. Just walk along it, be careful not to slip. You will also see blue pipes along it leading to the waterfall. The rivers on the islands are often exploited (roughly) to collect running water in this way. Don't try to catch hold of one of these pipes in case of a slip, it is not fixed at all.

After 15 minutes in the jungle, the path seems to end abruptly, while you will not yet be able to see the waterfall. At this point, you must enter the riverbed – which is usually quite dry – and then join the path on the opposite side or continue along the watercourse until you reach your goal. As usual, you will find a natural pool at the foot of the waterfall, where you can swim.

The path before arriving at the parking lot.

The message is clear.

Follow the signs.

In the thick of it, the jungle is yours to explore.

When I went there, the "pool" was reduced to a muddy pool where I would not have put a toe especially since with the ambient heat, it would not have refreshed. The waterfall itself is a wall of 10 m at a glance, but its main interest lies in its setting. The Kai Bae waterfall is surrounded by a lush jungle. You can come across beautiful specimens of birds and listen to the atmosphere of nature in peace. Most of the time, the waterfall should be relatively deserted.

The day of my visit, I was alone (well, of course, there was no water, that takes away from the interest) and only came across a gentleman repairing connections between the pipes. On the other hand, who jungle says the inconveniences that can come with it…

I won't even mention mosquitoes, but you should know that snakes are often spotted here. This will be more generally the case in the rainy season, but among these charming creatures, we can mention the king cobra. It is the largest venomous snake that easily reaches 4 or even 5 meters for the most beautiful specimens. The venom is not very powerful in itself, but what makes it deadly is the dose in question that it injects in the event of a bite. This causes asphyxiation in a few minutes or a few hours depending on the location of the bite and the quantity of venom.

So ideally, pick up a piece of wood and tap on the rocks in front and around it while walking. The vibrations will alert all the snakes and they will stay hidden. Because fortunately, they are basically fearful and avoid people.

If you want to play Bear Grylls, the trail at the base of the waterfall continues for a few hundred meters. You can go a little deeper into the jungle, up and around the waterfall until you are about 10 meters from the top of the falls.

Khlong Phlu Waterfall

Khlong Phlu is therefore, as I mentioned above, the most visited waterfall on the island. And rightly so. It is located in a beautiful setting, away from Klong Prao beach, surrounded by jungle. Access is easy and the space is clear at the foot of the waterfall where you have several natural pools.

Khlong Phlu is managed by the national park, so you have to pay an entrance fee to get there. You can do this at the car park at the entrance to the path leading to the falls. From there, you have a 15-20 minute walk to the waterfall itself. It's accessed via a well-maintained 600-metre trail, with concrete steps to help and guide ropes in places. The whole way is done by following the river that feeds the waterfall. The waterfall tumbles down a 20-metre slope, forming a narrow ravine in the rock face surrounding it.

At the Khlong Phlu waterfall parking lot.

Along the river.

The path leading to the waterfall.

Khlong Phlu is one of the only waterfalls that is supplied with water almost all year round. If there is a drought here, so less water than usual, I still had a small trickle of water. And even with just that, I found the place very charming, I let you imagine the scene with water flowing freely. It is therefore not surprising that the waterfall attracts most of the island's visitors.

[EDIT 2023: as I wanted to come back earlier in the season, first week of January to be exact, and have better conditions, I was able to see the waterfall with a little more water, the difference in atmosphere is still quite obvious, I put the comparison with the original photo first and the most recent one next to it.]

Another positive point, at least reassuring if you are with children for example, is that once at the falls, you have Park Rangers who watch and can provide assistance in case someone encounters a problem.

The large pool at the foot of the falls is deep, you can swim in it as well as the other smaller natural pools a little further downstream. Normally, you can jump into the water from the adjacent rocks. In the past, it was possible to access the top of the falls via a path, allowing you to have a view of the sea but apparently this is closed until further notice.

Due to its popularity, the facilities are maintained and improved. But it is therefore a place where it is more difficult to be alone in the world, because guided tours often pass by, it is better to go there very early in the morning to be more peaceful (like around the opening at 8:00). Groups generally arrive in the middle of the morning.

The advantage of going out of season is that at least the day I went there weren't many people. A minibus of Russian tourists plus a few other people were finishing up their swim, but it wasn't a shambles.

Finally, always useful, note that at the entrance to the falls, you have some shops and restaurants where you can have lunch or a snack.

Khlong Chao Lueam Waterfall

The last waterfall on the West Coast to be presented. It is sometimes spelled Jao Lueam or simply called Klong Son Falls, after the valley and the village located nearby.

To get there, you have to go 4 km inland from the 7-11 in Klong Son village, where the main road passes. This means having your own transport, as there are normally no songthaews going to this valley. Knowing that the only other attraction in the area, which ends in a dead end, is the Baan Kwan Chang elephant camp, which is not far from the waterfall.

The road becomes a path at the end and you have to cross the river by the lookout to reach the property from where you can follow the path to the small waterfall. Because it is the same principle as for the small waterfall of Kai Bae. You will see some signs for the waterfall and a sign displaying that you have to pay 40 Baht.

When I arrived, there was no one around so I first went to see the waterfall, or rather, the area because I didn't expect to find water there given the circumstances.

It's not a spectacular waterfall, as much as I can tell you right away. But then again, you won't be bothered by the crowd, and the forest surrounding you allows for some surprises. Indeed, as I was setting off on the path near the starting house, I heard noise in the trees. It took me a few seconds of attention to lay my eyes on a small group of wild monkeys, who were jumping from branch to branch. The jungle, I tell you.

The valley to get to the waterfall.

It's right there.

The lookout where the river crosses when there is water.

Arrival at the parking lot, deserted.

The garden at the start of the trail leading to the waterfall.

Seen! A monkey going about his business.

Afterwards, I quickly arrived at the waterfall in question. The path is sometimes narrow, with a few roots that require you to watch where you put your feet. The main fall is a small cascade of barely 2 m. But if you have the soul of an explorer, there again, you can go further into the jungle even if the latter seemed thick to me. I read that the area is divided into several levels even if most of them are small.

You have to follow the watercourse by taking a path on the side if possible, otherwise go up the watercourse by climbing a few rocks. The different levels are normally annotated to help you find your way. You will normally find a small dam at level 2 with a pool where you can swim. If still accessible, level 4 turns out to be the best place to take a dip (if the season allows). It has the largest pool and this is where most people will end their adventure.

Again, you will be able to follow the water pipes with blue pipes, which were laid to bring water to the farms and houses in the valley.

It feels like the place used to attract more visitors, or at least hoped for better business. Because around the starting point, there are facilities like a small restaurant, but also bungalows, which were available for long-term rental.

And I use the past tense, because I think the isolation of the waterfall got the better of this place, it all looked abandoned… Like the guy who finally woke up from his nap a little lost. Coming back from my little walk, I planned to leave the 40 Baht somewhere before seeing a guy slumped on a hammock in the kitchen of the old restaurant. It remains private property, it was the least I could do to pay my passage.

Khlong Nonsi Waterfall

Khlong Nonsi is a small free waterfall near the village of Dan Mai, the main town on the island where the hospital is located.

Since 2015, a road has been built to access the foot of the trail leading to the waterfall, making access much shorter and easier. Previously, it was the same system as for other waterfalls mentioned above, you had to park at a private home, pay a few bahts and walk through life annuities to reach the river.

To reach this stretch of road, head towards the East coast. It will be necessary to have your own transport for this, the white songthaews do not go to this coast. You will pass by the Koh Chang hospital on your right (if you are coming from the West coast). Shortly after, you will have a police station and finally, you will see a government office complex with an empty field in front (similar to a football field.

And there, fortunately, a blue sign in English indicates the waterfall, because otherwise it would just be the entrance leading to the government complex in question. Which, in fact, was the case before, but to allow public access to the waterfall, the small road that I mentioned above starts from here.

On the sign, the waterfall is indicated with the spelling Klong nonsee, specifying that there are 800 m left to go. You will then pass orchards and more precisely, durians (the famous stinky fruit).

The parking lot is just a slightly wider stretch of road, indicating a low attendance of the place. This is also why access is free. This is a secondary waterfall visually. But it is once again isolated and surrounded by thick jungle. As with the other free falls, bring water and a snack if you plan on exploring and enjoying it at least a little while there, because there is nothing on site.

The durian plantation can before arriving at the Khlong Nonsi waterfall parking lot.

Follow the pipes.

The river was also dry…

The path is sometimes very narrow.

A first level of the Khlong Nonsi waterfall.

On the other hand, the river feeding this waterfall is essential for this area of ​​the island when I see the number of blue pipes installed to supply water... I always regret the lack of attachment to a minimum of "aesthetics" and beyond that, to the more practical aspect of burying these pipes to prevent them from being torn out by storms and the violent rains that can result.

Because suddenly, it's a real mess of blue pipes that you can follow to go up the river to the main waterfall in the area. Khlong Nonsi can be visited on several levels.

As soon as you go down to the river, you will see the first level of the waterfall. Climb the concrete steps on the left side of the river and you will reach the second level where there is a larger pool, formed by a small concrete dam. Since it is landscaped and easy to access up to this point, most people stop at this level before leaving the waterfall.

But the path continues and climbs steeply, hence the presence of guide ropes, essential to help you. One section in particular, admittedly short, but a little tricky, requires you to walk along a sloping rock face, and luckily there is a rope there. You will soon reach the next level, where you can watch the people below you in the pool on level 2.

The last level is reached by walking along the riverbed, staying on the left and climbing rocks. Nothing too difficult. Then you see another small artificial dam and finally the falls corresponding to the 4th level. I stopped there for my part but it is also possible to continue higher along a path going off to the right to reach yet another level, which apparently has a beautiful pool at the foot of a waterfall surrounded by two fairly high cliffs.

It's climbing.

Delicate passage.

The main waterfall at Khlong Nonsi.

Than Mayom Waterfall

This is the main waterfall on the West Coast. And by "main" I mean that it is properly managed and maintained by the national park, thus incurring an entrance fee.

Than Mayom is popular with Thais because the falls were visited by two kings, Rama V and Rama VII, who carved their signatures into the rock to mark their passage. The falls themselves are made up of 4 levels. However, the upper levels can only be reached with a qualified guide. This is the gateway to the trek linking the East and West coasts, from Khlong Phlu. A strenuous trek in the heart of Ko Chang, which for 8 hours with a peak at 500 m above sea level, will show you waterfalls and nature that is otherwise inaccessible.

If you have already paid to go to Khlong Phlu, there is no need to pay again, the ticket is valid for the whole park all day. The ideal is therefore to visit both waterfalls of the national park on the same day, otherwise you will have to pay again, and in this case, Than Mayom could seem a bit disappointing.

The view from the bridge next to the parking lot entrance towards Than Mayom Waterfall.

The start of the trail is well marked.

The river flows into the sea a few meters further.

On the way back up, it's all dry.

A rope to help cross when there is water.

From the car park, which you will find on the right just before a bridge, you will access a path leading to the waterfall. A little further on you will see a concrete footbridge crossing the river. To reach the main waterfall, you will have to cross the river several times, which will involve getting your feet wet if the water level is at all high (in my case, it was completely dry so I didn't have to deal with it). You will notably have a rope at one point that crosses the river from one side to the other, useful if the level is quite high.

As you get to the main waterfall area, where the Park Ranger is on watch, you have several pools to swim in. One on the lower level, and one on the upper level. As you go there, you can see a rock on the side with a rope around it. This is where the signatures left by the visiting kings are located.

Khlong Neung Waterfall

Khlong Neung is the highest waterfall on the island. It sounds all the more tempting since it's free! You might say it sounds like a scam? Not quite... But it's worth it! And it's the least visited on this list.

There is an effort that has been made to encourage people to stop by. A tarmac road passes through a pretty coconut grove and rubber plantations, which are numerous on the island. Before arriving there, you have to head towards Salak Phet, the main village in the south of the island. Shortly after the crossroads with the road leading to the fishing village of Salak Kok, you will come across two shops (like a local supermarket) facing each other and just after, a road on the right.

Take the first right right after. And this will take you to the mini parking lot near the waterfall. From there, you see a path that goes into the jungle and goes down to the riverbed just a few meters further. There, there is a small concrete dam. Looking around, I looked hard, but I didn't see any other paths...

At first, I started to try to go up the river bed, but seeing that it was getting complicated, I turned back. I hadn't said my last word yet... While I was looking online, I saw many people giving the waterfall a bad rating on TripAdvisor because, in fact, they couldn't find a path leading to it.

A rubber plantation can be seen before the car park

At first, everything seems easy...

As you go down to the river bed, things will quickly get complicated.

And there, you have to continue straight on...

But a few comments indicating that they managed to go there, saying that it was worth it, encouraged me to try again. From there, I realized the obvious. The path no longer exists, so you have to go back up the river. And it's not as easy as it seems. The river bed is not flat and if in my case, it was relatively dry (which is also to say how stubborn I am, since without water, I suspected that the waterfall would look bad).

Many large rocks prevent rapid progress, not to mention the dead trees that have fallen. But overall, by carefully analyzing the possible paths, you can manage to climb up the rocks and continue to climb. This requires some trial and error. You can't define a specific route so you have to decide on the spot. The good news is that it's not that far, count on 15-20 minutes of climbing to reach the foot of the wall from where the waterfall falls (when there is water).

You know you're getting close to the waterfall when you see a huge rock and discover that the only way around is to the left of it where you'll have to get a little wet if the water is flowing. Once you reach the waterfall, there's usually a small, narrow pool where you can swim as a reward. You'll probably be alone to enjoy it, too, as few venture that far.

While I was checking the information on the net, I saw a scooter arrive and immediately turn around. Otherwise, I only met a French couple there (why wasn't I surprised...) who did indeed climb up to the fall, after I confirmed to them that it was possible, since I was on the descent.

Given the conditions for getting there, bring a waterproof bag for your fragile papers, phone or other items if the water is likely to flow in torrents.

Yes, it's still straight.

This is a milestone.

The reward!

Khiri Phet Waterfall

Not far from Khlong Neung, you will find another waterfall, near the village of the same name, Khiri Phet. This last waterfall on the list is also free, but this time, no "trap", it is very easy to access.

No problem to get there with children if they are not too clumsy with their feet. First, you have a tarmac road ending in a small parking lot, which brings you considerably closer from the main road. The only "flaw" of this waterfall is that nothing is indicated... And when you are in the parking lot, you will notice two paths leading towards the forest.

Actually, both lead to the waterfall, but the left path is the easier one. And of course, I only found out afterwards so I went right…

After that, there is nothing insurmountable. The path on the right first takes you through the forest and then a rubber plantation, before having to scramble a bit through the jungle. A few branches will be across your path, but the path remains fairly clear and open. On the other hand, there are a few slopes so be careful if it is wet.

A beautiful coconut grove before arriving at the small waterfall car park.

I went to the right.

On the day of my visit I was with a guy from Wales I had met earlier as I stopped at one of the viewpoints at Salak Phet Bay.

The left path, meanwhile, crosses the river and you pass an area of ​​tall grass. You have to follow a narrow path through the grass, parallel to the river. Afterwards, it becomes a much wider path through a rubber plantation and remains flat until you reach the river. An easy walk…

The last few meters are in any case on the river bed. You will reach the main waterfall by going along to the right. Climb the sloping rocks, which are not slippery, and you will arrive at the upper natural pool where you can also swim and a third mini pool at the foot of the waterfall. The latter is partly artificial since it is held back by a small dam made of cemented pebbles.

This is a place that is normally more visited, because it is indicated on the maps and also easily accessible. In my case, probably because the season was not suitable that year, I did not meet anyone else there. The setting is not particularly impressive, but it is still a nice little walk with swimming in a quiet corner of the island.

If you want to try to climb higher, which is apparently possible, you will have to look for the trail on the right side of the waterfall. But it is now overgrown so good luck for the rest… It is better to hire a guide to venture beyond the main areas of the waterfalls.

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