Taiwan Taipei between tradition and modernity: from Taipei 101 to Ximending Taipei, Travel to Taiwan 4.5 (2)Taipei, the dynamic capital of Taiwan, turns out to be an interesting city, mixing tradition and modernity. Even if we didn't really plan our days by theme, it turns out that this first day of exploration was a perfect mix between a direct dive into the most contemporary part of the city and an exploration taking us into the picturesque alleys and neighborhoods testifying to Taipei's past.This journey between past and present was a perfect introduction to get an overview of the metropolis. From Taipei 101 to trendy Ximending, it is this exploration of the multiple facets of Taipei that I invite you to (re)live through this story, to better understand the complexity and richness of this destination which is still so little visited. Summary hide Taipei 101: the iconic tower 44 South Military Village: in the footsteps of the past Dihua Street, the oldest street in Taipei Yuanshan Park Area: a family park Wanhua District and Ximending: between history and modernity Taipei 101: the iconic towerThe day after our arrival, we tackled one of the city's modern districts by going to Taipei 101 Tower. Our hotel was located along Rahoe Street, known for its night market which we were able to enjoy the day before (and discover at the same time, because we didn't know there was one).Given the distance and the journey, it was easier to go there directly by taxi, we were there in just 10 minutes. As we hadn't had breakfast yet, we looked for a restaurant directly in the area of the shopping centers facing us. We tested The Diner, a rather trendy restaurant, very close to the iconic tower.The wait was a bit long (there were a lot of people) but this brunch did us good to finally start the heart of the visits, a little after 11am. First, we gravitated around Taipei 101, just to have several points of view on this skyscraper with its unique architecture.508 m high, Taipei 101 features, as its name suggests, 101 floors. Apart from the first 5 floors which are a shopping mall, the rest is mainly offices, with also an indoor observatory on the 88th and an outdoor observatory on the 91st floor.It has accumulated several records for quite a few years, starting with the first structure in the world to exceed half a kilometer, and becoming the tallest tower at that time. If all these records will be surpassed at the inauguration of the Burj Khalifa in Dubai (which I was able to see during a stopover extended), Taipei nevertheless remains to this day the 4th tallest tower in the world.It is also a technical feat because the building must be able to withstand the difficult conditions of Taiwan, subject to typhoons and earthquakes. One of its secrets is the use of a giant 660-ton steel ball, placed between the 87th and 91st floors.This ball, called a "harmonic damper", is an effective system for reducing oscillations and therefore stabilizing the building in strong winds. Taipei 101 successfully completed a full-scale test in 2015, withstanding winds of over 200 km/h.Coming back to our walk, discovering this central district gives me a positive impression of Taipei at the moment. In my opinion, it is always enjoyable to visit a city center because even if it is only a part of what represents and defines a city, it usually reflects the state of development and the general organization of it, or even of the country as a whole, especially when it is a capital.While this logic of thought would find its exceptions and contradictions, a well-maintained, orderly and welcoming city centre contributes to giving a positive image of the city and the entire country. And here, even if it is not what characterises the entire city, it is in any case the reflection that I am making at that moment.It's clean, harmonious, and green.We come across a bike rental stand (YouBike) and it seems super accessible, because the traffic is fluid (it should be noted that it was a Sunday, that helps), and there are lanes reserved for two-wheelers. The arteries and sidewalks are wide, and public spaces with green spaces dot the area, like the small Taipei Civic Plaza Park which we were going to take a look at.I can't help but draw a parallel with Bangkok, which even in the city center, which is a symbol of modernity and the spearhead of the country, still gives off a chaotic image. The concentration of buildings is dense, the traffic is intense, there are no cycle paths, and the sidewalks are often cluttered, creating a much more stifling atmosphere (I am often told this).The difference is stark. Taipei has a radically different vibe.While it may be common for city centers to be synonymous with historic areas, this is less the case in Taipei. Among the only sites of historical value close to the center, you have the Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall (although it was built in 1972). Otherwise, it is mainly home to financial and commercial centres, but also to some government buildings.We pass the city hall, then buildings with ambiguous names, such as the Taipei World Trade Center or the Taipei International Convention Center (TICC). We stopped in the latter to have a coffee, coming across a familiar name: Louisa Coffee", a branch of cafe that we frequented regularly at Central World in Bangkok.44 South Military Village: in the footsteps of the pastA historical exception nevertheless presents itself with the " 44 South Military Village" , a former military district where we were heading after our coffee break. Its name refers directly to the garrison stationed there, the 44th Arsenal of the Logistics Command.Following their defeat in the Chinese Civil War, the armed forces of the Republic of China (the official name of Taiwan) retreated to the island. In the emergency, housing had to be built to house the military and their families.These constructions were modest, assembling rudimentary materials such as wood, bamboo and reinforced with a little concrete. The dwellings were small, with a shared bathroom for several families and initially without access to running water.Part of the village was ravaged by fire in 1999, and total demolition was therefore considered in 2001. However, residents and heritage specialists managed to convince the government to preserve part of this village as a cultural site.This small district, dating from 1948, has thus been transformed into a cultural and artistic space in recent years, now constituting an important historical site, located near the iconic Taipei 101.Today, the village is home to a few houses converted into art galleries, craft shops and a small museum, which we of course went to see. The colourful doors and windows give a certain character to the remaining houses, although their number is limited.The old streets whose houses have since disappeared are symbolized by a curved lawn in the shape of a roof. Concretely, my attraction to this village was due to two reasons.The first being that every weekend, what can be described as the main square of the village is transformed into a flea market, offering local craft objects and snacks (and I remind you that it was a Sunday 😉 Even if we didn't buy anything there, it's always enjoyable to walk around with this kind of atmosphere that is both relaxed and creative.The second reason is the kind of photo spot that interests me because of the visual contrast between this village and Bygone past and the futuristic modernity of Taipei 101, perfectly visible in the background.Fortunately this site is very close to the skyscraper, it is certainly photogenic and nice, but making a big detour just to see this village would not be necessary in my eyes, especially outside of weekends. In addition, it remains small so a half hour is enough to go around it.Dihua Street, the oldest street in TaipeiContinuing our visit to the “44 South” village, we took the nearest metro, located at Taipei 101/World Trade Center station, to get off at Taipei Main station via the red line (R for Red or Tamsui-Xinyi).In doing so, we didn't have to change subways, but it wasn't next door either. We had to walk 600 meters through the underground maze of the subway of this enormous station, before arriving at the exit closest to Dihua Street.There was then a little more than 600 m on the surface to reach this historic shopping street. A short walk that took us a good 20 minutes and allowed us to get a totally different view of the city, with a rendering closer to what I have seen in other Chinese-sounding neighborhoods (I am thinking in particular of George Town on Penang Island, Malaysia).It's the kind of city that I find great for photos, there are always street corners to observe, with lights, changing atmospheres, everyday life in full swing. We even come across by chance a bronze statue of a man on the phone, with a kid on a tricycle next to him, the kind of totally random scene...What I didn't know at the time was that Dihua Street is part of Dadaocheng District, one of the oldest districts in Taipei. Dihua Street is therefore often considered as the oldest street in Taipei.Originally, the economic heart of Taiwan was just 2 km further south, an area formerly called Bangka (in Taiwanese, Wanhua being the current name in modern Mandarin), which at the time was the most important city in the north of the island. Its trade was prosperous thanks to its port built along the Tamsui River.Dadaocheng, originally developed as a separate entity, then known as Twatutia. Its small port was much more modest in its early days than Bangka, but it grew thanks to the export of tea, which became important in northern Taiwan in the mid-19th century.But it is above all the Dingxiajiao conflict, which broke out in 1853, which would create upheaval and change the situation. This conflict arose from a disagreement between different groups of immigrants from Fujian (the coastal province of mainland China, located opposite the island of Taiwan), and it was at the origin of a large relocation of the inhabitants of Bangka to Dadaocheng.At that time, Dadaocheng remained essentially an agricultural area, but with the combination of the influx of population from the Dingxiajiao conflict, then the opening of the port of Tamsui (the one on the seaside) to international trade from the 1860s, its development accelerated rapidly.A view of Dihua Street in the last century.The final blow came with the silting up of the river around the Bangka region, and Dadaocheng eventually overtook Bangka as the main access point to the Taipei Basin from the coast.By 1898, Dadaocheng's population had surpassed that of Bangka, becoming the second largest city on the entire island, behind the former capital, Tainan, in southern Taiwan. It was also the opening up to international trade that gave Dihua Street its current appearance, including Most of the houses date from the mid-19th to early 20th century..At the south entrance of Dihua Street.The street, which runs about a kilometer from north to south, has a architectural crossbreeding mixing Fujianese, Baroque and classical European styles, but also Japanese colonial. Today, Dihua Street has remained a shopping street since it offers traditional shops offering a variety of local products (Chinese herbs, fabrics, tea, snacks) but also souvenir shops and other handicrafts.Coming back to our walk, we came across our first interesting facade at the very entrance of Dihua, with a building with a gray facade, currently a pastry shop. Looking at Google Street View, I could see that the corner of the building had been seriously altered for a while with an addition of 2 floors and an architecture that did not respect the rest... Having become for a time an "exhibition center of Taiwan's national treasures", the latter had regained its original appearance.It soon becomes apparent that Dihua Street is not just about shopping. The main street and the whole area is appreciated for its many small cafes, patisseries and restaurants, offering visitors plenty of choice for a well-deserved break from the hustle and bustle.A few meters further, we plunged into a small perpendicular alley. And just then, we were in for a dessert, in addition to our daily coffee, while we came across a line of small cafes and shops offering gifts and souvenirs.Shortly after returning along the main street, one passes the large covered market of Yong Le, which had its heyday thanks to the wholesale sale of imported fabrics. While the textile industry declined over time, Yong Le Market remains the largest fabric wholesale and retail center in Taiwan.The 2nd and 3rd floors are still dedicated to this trade while the first floor has become a traditional market, with all kinds of goods, fresh fruits and vegetables, groceries etc. The original building was founded at the beginning of the last century but its current version dates from 1982.The facade of Yong Le Market.Another notable building, located just across from Yong Le Market, is AS Watson & Co. It was built in 1919 by members of the Lee family, to house the first Western-style pharmacy (known today as Watsons) and now houses a few craft and souvenir shops, a cafe and, at least until the time of our visit, a bookstore (according to a Google Street view, this has already changed since then).Upstairs, you'll find the ArtYard1 boutique (listed as Small Arts Courtyard on Google Maps), which is part of a project to breathe new life into many of the buildings in the Dihua Street area.AS Watson & Co.I linger on some facades where we can see sculptures that embellish the whole. Some stores seem very popular given the queue we see in front. Our next stop is at the local temple, Xiahai City God Temple, built in 1859. As its name suggests, it is dedicated to Chenghuang, considered in Chinese mythology as a protective deity of the inhabitants of towns and villages.Besides a statue of the " god of the city"This temple houses his two lieutenants, his wife, a Chinese Buddha (with a big belly), who are among the more than six hundred divinities on an area of 152 square meters, which makes it Taiwan's highest density of statues.In total, we stayed just 1 hour hanging out on a part of Dihua Street, before moving away to join the metro at Shuanglian station, still on the red line. From where we were, it was a good kilometer of walking but it was still faster and more direct than retracing our steps to Taipei Main (and it saved us a line change).Yuanshan Park Area: a family parkFrom Shuanglian, we got off at the next station, Yuanshan. The goal was then to get to " Lin An Tai Historical House and Museum » historic house and traditional Chinese residence preserved and transformed into a museum.We then have to cross the park through which we arrive directly at the bottom of the station,e Yuanshan Park Area. On Google Maps, "Taipei Expo Park" is added because there is in fact a former stadium right next to it, since transformed into a convention center and expo center.There were a lot of people and we came on a day when there was a market and activities that made us hang around a bit. The fact is that from the park, you still have to walk a good kilometer to reach the famous house.Checking the schedule (you remember the importance of looking beforehand), I realize that it closes at 17 p.m., and it is then… 17 p.m.! So, we made this little detour for nothing… or almost. We were still able to take advantage of this hiccup by enjoying the good-natured atmosphere that reigned in this park, much frequented by families.We are also pleased to see that dogs are allowed (a rare thing in Bangkok). On our way back to the metro station, we pass the entrance to a temple, the Linji Huguo Temple, whose main hall is made entirely of wood. I would later learn that it is one of the oldest and best-preserved buildings of its type from the Japanese colonial era in Taipei.Entrance to Linji Huguo Temple.Wanhua District and Ximending: between history and modernityAs I mentioned above, the Wanhua district used to be the small town of Bangka, a trading port that eventually ran out of steam. And while Dadaocheng has managed to keep many traces of its past, this is less the case in Wanhua, which has instead chosen the path of evolution and modernity. Among the traces of its past, we note however the " The Red House » (also called Ximen Red House), or red house, in good French.Although the style takes up Western codes, this is the work of a Japanese architect Kondo Juro. This building resembling a church (it forms a cross when seen from the sky), was built in 1908, and owes its current name to the red bricks (obviously) that compose it.Although it originally served as a market, after the period of Japanese domination (which lasted from 1895 to 1945), the site was used as a theatre for performances of traditional opera and then converted into a cinema in the 60s.This artistic use has continued since today, the Red House, since registered as a historic and protected site, is managed by the Department of Cultural Affairs, which uses the Red House as a platform to promote the cultural and creative industry.It is then 18pm and night falls. We decide to sit on the terrace of one of the bars on the square next to the red house. It is an opportunity for me to taste a local beer (Tawain Beer) and also to eat. I only realize now in the writing, that it is in fact an area mainly comprising Gay bars, if you are interested. After our meal, we continued our exploration of the area, heading towards Ximending. Ximending Walking Street is one of Taipei's iconic destinations. It is a bustling pedestrian street located in the heart of Wanhua District. It is famous for its young and dynamic atmosphere, its many shops, restaurants, cafes, cinemas, fashion boutiques, arcades and entertainment venues.Opposite the red house you have a staircase to reach the upper floor of the bars adjoining the area.Just up these steps you will have a nice view of the Red House and the entrance to the Ximending district.View of the Red House.View of the crossroads at the entrance to Ximending.Its popularity among young people is due to its urban fashion scene. As you walk around Ximending, you will surely come across street performances (we stopped for a few minutes to watch one of them), music shows and other cultural events throughout the year.Ximending is often compared to Shibuya in Tokyo, personally, I find similar characteristics in Myeongdong in Seoul (which I also compare to Siam Square in Bangkok).While it can be a great place to window shop, possibly sample some Taiwanese street food, and most importantly, experience Taipei's vibrant nightlife, it felt like we'd seen it all before.So we didn't linger there any longer and headed back to our hotel. I'll talk about it in the general article summarizing our 3 days (and some) in Taipei, but for the first part of our stay in Taipei, we stayed in the Songshan district.Having to iron from along the Rahoe market, Jitima will not be able to resist stopping to eat one last local specialty for the day, a soup made with tofu. Did you like the article? Vote on the article Note globale 4.5 / 5. Number of votes: 2 No votes yet. Be the first to rate this article! Did you like the article? Follow me on social media Capital Urban exploration Historic Districts Suggestions for visits 0 0 Roman 19/04/2024
