Thailand-Cambodia border: the forgotten temples of Prasat Ta Muan and Ta Kwai

Straddling the border between Thailand and Cambodia, several forgotten Khmer temples continue to defy time... and diplomacy. Once mere stops on an ancient Angkorian route, these sanctuaries lost in the jungle, perched high in the Dangrek Mountains, are not just archaeological curiosities: they embody a shared, disputed, and sometimes sensitive history.

Among them, the Prasat Ta Muan Thom and Prasat Ta Kwai, temples that almost no one visits, still guarded by the army - as if to remind us that we are walking on a sensitive line. It is precisely this "unattainable" side and the impression of visiting Cambodia, without really being there, that made me want to take a closer look at these little-known sites, which are rich in symbols.

Accessed from Surin Province, on the Thai side, in an area still marked by border tensions. And while their isolation has long hampered their tourist development, current events are now giving them an unexpected place in the spotlight.

So, forgotten heritage or reclaimed remains? A quick look at these border temples unlike any other—a heritage under strain.

Historical context

Before becoming sites of contention, these temples were primarily religious and logistical stops on the ancient road that connected Angkor to Phimai. An important route, punctuated by sanctuaries, hospitals, and royal rest stops. Both Prasat Ta Muan Thom and Prasat Ta Kwai were part of this web of sacred infrastructure, characteristic of the Khmer empire at its height, between the 11th and 13th centuries.

Area of influence of the Khmer Empire at its height.

At the time, there was no border between Thailand and Cambodia: the influence of the Khmer kingdom extended widely across the entire region. But with the decline of Angkor, the rise of the Ayutthaya kingdom—which became powerful Siam—and then French colonization of Indochina, the maps were gradually redrawn. As a result, several Khmer temples are now found on the Thai side (or at least, are considered as such), particularly along the Dangrek Mountains—a steep, wooded, and therefore little-visited area.

A contested border

The current border line is largely based on the Franco-Siamese agreements of 1907. This division notably served as a reference during the judgment of the International Court of Justice in 1962, which attributed the site of Preah Vihear to Cambodia (see official ICJ file) — a decision that was never fully accepted by the Thai side.

En 2008, the ranking of Preah Vihear in Unesco World Heritage, with the active support of Cambodia, rekindled tensions. Many in Thailand saw it as a form of symbolic appropriation of the site, and a series of armed tensions erupted in 2011, leaving several dead on both sides. And even if the temples of Surin province are more discreet, their position on the edge of the line remains just as symbolic, particularly for the nationalists of both countries.

In recent years, calm seemed to have returned. But in 2025, several incidents revived the dispute, including a clash between Thai and Cambodian soldiers in a disputed area of the border (source: Libération, June 6 2025). This was followed by official reactions from the Cambodian side and the temporary closure of border posts. Nothing definitive yet, but enough to remind us that these temples are not just old stones lost in the jungle.

Despite this context, there are currently no problems getting there from the Thai side. Access is open, the areas are calm, and the military presence at certain sites remains purely deterrent. This is more of a political symbolism than a concrete risk for visitors.

Prasat Ta Muan: a trio of Khmer temples

Before arriving at the main sanctuary of Ta Muan Thom, you should know that this site is not limited to a single temple: it is in reality a set of three Khmer sanctuaries, distributed along the road leading to the border. We therefore find successively:

• Prasat Ta Muan (shortly)
• Prasat Ta Muan Tot
• Prasat Ta Muan Thom (the most important of the three)

Ta Muan and Ta Muan Thom are only 1,3 km apart, but each site has its own unique atmosphere.

Prasat Ta Muan: the most discreet of the trio

The first temple, visible directly from the roadside, is also the most discreet of the three. The dark stone building is quite well preserved, with its tower at the western entrance still retaining its roof. The whole complex is surrounded by massive trees, providing welcome shade for this small, forgotten shrine. No guardian, no information sign, not a single cat.

A frozen place, removed from time. It's not a temple that would justify a detour on its own, but since it's part of the trio, ignoring it would be a bit of a shame.

Prasat Ta Muan Tot: the second temple, on the edge of the forest

Returning to the road towards Ta Muan Thom, barely 200 meters further, we come across a second sanctuary, visible on the edge of the forest, Prasat Ta Muan Tot (not even indicated on Google Maps...). Here, there are no military checkpoints yet: the temple is clearly in Thai territory. You can park right next to it and access the site in a few seconds.

Small but charming, the sanctuary blends perfectly into its surroundings. It is a typical Khmer temple, made of sandstone, centered around a well-preserved main tower (prang). At the entrance, a few stones on the ground mark the ancient terrace demarcating the sacred access.

The cross-shaped entrance hall remains clearly visible, as does a secondary building within the enclosure—perhaps a library or prayer room—which still retains its original roof. On the side outside the enclosure, a basin, still lined with stones, must have provided a source of ritual water at the time.

The site is well-maintained and poses no danger. I appreciate being able to wander around freely, observe the ruins, and soak up the surroundings in peace. Obviously, it's nothing spectacular, and taken in isolation, it might not warrant a detour. But since it's an integral part of the trio of Khmer temples, it's worth stopping for a few minutes—it complements the whole, and the peaceful atmosphere is worth it.

This kind of small, forgotten site, unspoiled by the show and undeveloped by infrastructure, contributes to the charm of this border region, still largely ignored by tourists. With a little imagination, it's easy to imagine a time when these sanctuaries formed a sacred network between the great Khmer cities.

Prasat Ta Muan Thom: the sanctuary between two worlds

Driving along a small country road in southern Surin Province, I finally reach a small military post on the edge of the jungle. There, in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by forest, stands Prasat Ta Muan Thom (sometimes spelled Ta Muen Thom), a thousand-year-old Khmer temple literally placed on the border line between Thailand and Cambodia. The heart of the sanctuary is considered Thai territory, and as such, is guarded by Thai soldiers.

The parking lot is almost deserted, with no facilities. The atmosphere on site is difficult to describe: peaceful, silent, almost suspended... but also controlled. The soldiers are visible from the moment you enter the site. Well, at least one: simply sitting on a small chair, with his register ready for you to sign, just to check who's coming and going.

Passage to Prasat Ta Muan Thom.

Otherwise, you'll be let in without any hassle. There's no ticket or crowd: you'll probably be alone or in small groups there, walking among the stones, with the jungle on one side and the invisible border on the other.

From the parking lot, you pass through a sort of corridor, simply demarcated by a green net as a "border," or failing that, a no-access zone. As this is a border zone, signs urge you to follow the passage carefully: a detour through the nearby forest would be at your own risk (in short, don't even think about it).

The atmosphere is obviously nothing like the more famous Khmer sites in Thailand (Phanom Rung comes to mind). There are no vendors or organized groups here: just a forgotten temple, and the constant thought that one more step could transport you to another country.

Built of sandstone on a classic rectangular plan, the site is surrounded by a perimeter wall that has now partially collapsed. The sanctuary is composed of a group of buildings, some of which are partially collapsed but still clearly visible. There are door frames in excellent condition, sculpted lintels, and even bas-reliefs—including one, partially eroded, depicting a standing figure with crossed legs.

One of the soldiers on site pointed out to me the location of an old Khmer engraving, still legible under a discreet doorframe toward the back of the temple. I don't know the extent of the renovations this site has undergone, but what I can see is that it is generally well preserved. A good portion is cleared, but some buildings at the back are still bathed in their original state, with vegetation replacing the original stone roof.

It is noteworthy that the temple faces south, which is quite rare in Khmer architecture—probably a constraint due to the precise relief at this location. At the center of the sanctuary, in a hollow tower that still stands, the interior of which resembles a chimney, a prayer space is still used by locals: the place remains sacred.

At present (2025), the temple is open every day, and the entrance is for free. No official schedule is posted, but the visit generally takes place between 8 p.m. and 16:30 p.m., depending on the light and the presence of guards. It is advisable to avoid public holidays or sensitive periods (higher border tensions), as a simple precaution.

Prasat Ta Kwai

Last stop for this series of temples a little out of time, the Prasat Ta Kwai — also known as Prasat Ta Kadey Cambodian side — is about thirty kilometers from Ta Muan Thom, although it is only about twelve kilometers away as the crow flies. To reach it, you have to go back down through the plain, pass through Ta Mieng, and then go back down towards the border by a secondary road.

Even more isolated than the other two, the temple is nestled in the middle of the forest, in a remote corner where no one happens to pass by. However, the site is a little better laid out than the previous one. Arriving at the parking lot—this time paved—there are even restrooms, which is saying something.

At the Prasat Ta Kwia parking lot.

The entrance is preceded by a small landscaped area with a few steps, a statue of a soldier, and a commemorative plaque. I imagine it pays tribute to the soldiers stationed in the area—perhaps killed in action during a clash with the neighbors.

Here too, there are no crowds, no ticket office: just a simple entrance, a few sentry boxes, and a green metal fence marking the path. There's a certain intimidating quality to it, let's not kid ourselves... The impression of entering a sort of "active" frontline zone.

While the site is accessible from Thailand without any border controls, it is under Cambodian supervision. This means it is technically within territory claimed (and administered) by Cambodia, even though there are no border posts to speak of.

Access to the temple.

But to say if the atmosphere is atypical, the two times I went there, I was entitled to a souvenir photo with the soldiers in charge of the site - I think it's both because there are few foreigners... and because it replaces the paper register a little.

The temple itself is modest: an imposing central prang sits proudly in the middle of the forest. What is most striking is the atmosphere of the place: calm, a little out of time. It clearly resembles the atmosphere typical of Angkorian temples, with the mixture of stones scattered around the structure and the vegetation that frames it all. Minus the crowds.

Aside from a few guards—armed, by the way—I only encountered two or three visitors during my visits. But the context remains sensitive: the simple fact that you pass through here without a stamp in your passport, even though you are technically “on the other side,” speaks volumes about the complexity of the border crossing.

In short, Prasat Ta Kwai doesn't shine with its splendor, but it coherently closes this loop of Khmer border temples. It reminds us that these remains are not just ancient stones: they are also identity markers, stuck between a glorious past and a very current geopolitical reality.

Visiting Khmer border temples from Thailand: practical information

The temples of Prasat Ta Muen Tot, Prasat Ta Muan Thom et Prasat Ta Kwai are located in the district of Phanom Dong Rak, in the far south of Surin province, on the edge of the Cambodian border.

Access from Surin

• Around 1:20am to 1:30pm drive from the city
• Follow the 214 route to Prasat, then turn onto the 2407 direction Ban Ta Miang
• Paved road all the way, doable by scooter or car

Access from Buriram

• Around 2 hours journey from the city center or the train station
• Follow the 218 route to Nang Rong, then the 24 route towards Prasat, then 2407 to the temples
• Depending on your program and itinerary, these temples can be combined with a visit to the Phanom rung and Prasat Muang Tam (both being only 5 km apart)

Practical advice

• Free admission on all three sites, rare enough to be noted!
• Informal hours : basically, remember that it is accessible between 8h and 16h30
• Military presence : Thai soldiers at Ta Muan Thom, Cambodian soldiers at Ta Kwai, each ensuring surveillance on “their” side.
• No tourist service on site: bring water, snacks, hat, charged battery

Location of temples

There are two routes to connect these three temples: one route further east (in yellow on the map) and another through the south (in blue). Both are generally the same in terms of time and distance, so you can choose according to your starting point or direction of the loop.

Here is a personalized map to visualize all this more easily: