Bang Pa In: Discovering the Royal Summer Palace in Thailand

Bang Pa In Royal Palace is a summer palace, located 60 km north of Bangkok. It is a visit usually combined with that of the old capital and Ayutthaya Historical Park since the site is located only 20km away.

History of Bang Pa In Palace

The origin of the royal domain dates back to 1632, during the time of King Prasat Thong of Ayutthaya. Probably too busy waging war against the Burmese army, the site was abandoned for 2 centuries since it was not until the reign of Rama IV (1851-1868) that there was renewed interest and renovation work.

But it was King Rama V who contributed to giving it its current appearance, building most of the buildings visible today. The result is an astonishing mix of European, Thai and Chinese architecture.

How to get to Bang Pa In

By train

Whether from Ayutthaya or Bangkok, the train is a good option since there is a small station at Bang Pa In. Once at the platform, you can either walk (1,8km) or you should be able to find tuk and/or songthaew that can take you to the palace.

Allow only 15 minutes from Ayutthaya for a cost of 12 Baths / 6 Bahts / 3 Bahts depending on whether you take 1st / 2nd / 3rd class.

For the return to Ayutthaya, there is the choice between n°207 and 145, leaving Bang Pa In at 15:43 and 16:43 respectively for an arrival at 15:57 and 16:56.

From Bangkok, allow 1h30 for a respective amount of 54 / 28 / 12 Bahts

For the return, the best train is probably number 112 which leaves at 16:16 p.m. and arrives in Bangkok at 18 p.m.

Some landmarks, seen from the sky.

By bus

From Bangkok, you have to go to the Mo Chit bus terminal (BTS station of the same name then taxi to the terminal). There are departures every 30min. The cost is normally 43 Baht but I don't have confirmation...

Taxi

A taxi ride from Ayutthaya should cost you no more than 200 Baht (normally around 150 Baht), from Bangkok expect at least 500-600 Baht.

Boat

Being located on the river, it is possible to reach the palace by boat. Most cruises departing from Bangkok stop at Bang Pa-In. It is also normally possible to rent a boat from the docks in Ayutthaya to go to Bang Pa-In but I do not know the cost.

The buildings that make up Bang Pa In Palace

The palace is open to the public because it is rarely used by the royal family today. The late King Rama IX always preferred his residence in Hua Hin (more pleasant to have the sea nearby, that's understandable).

As with any royal palace, proper attire is required, namely covered legs and shoulders. Shoes must also be removed before entering the buildings (including the observation tower). The palace is roughly a little over 600 m long and 250 m wide.

A map to give you an idea of ​​the places.

It takes around 1h30 to 2h to do the tour.

Once you have paid the 100 Baht admission fee, you can rent golf carts, which are handy if you have children or people of a certain age (with the heat in Thailand, walking can quickly become tiring).

Upon arrival, you will walk along a paved road, bordered by an artificial pond. You will first pass by a pagoda, in the Khmer architectural style. This pagoda was built on the site of a sanctuary originally built by the locals in honor of King Prasat Thong.

The lake and the royal pavilion

Then you arrive at a crossroads, with the pond in front, in the middle of which is a "Sala", a royal pavilion, which is ultimately the only structure using the codes of Thai architecture, built by Rama IV, then a statue of Rama V was added later by his son (Rama VI therefore).

In good weather, the reflection on the water is most beautiful!

From the kiosk next to the bridge, you can feed the fish and turtles that inhabit the body of water. On your left, the small bridge leading to the royal residence.

This one is lined with statues in the Greco-Roman style. King Rama V, as a reminder, traveled a lot in Europe and particularly admired the architecture there, having been largely inspired by it when building the buildings of Bang Pa In.

The former residence of King Rama V

This is evidenced by the residence, which used to be on two floors during the time of Rama IV. King Rama V (also known by his real name, Chulalongkorn) redid everything on a single floor in a neoclassical style.

To access the interior, women must wear a sarong, a type of traditional skirt (provided nearby), unless you are already wearing a long skirt.

The sarong of the day.

Photos are forbidden inside, but it feels very opulent and… European. King Rama V made many trips to Europe, bringing back many architectural inspirations but also innovations such as street planning, electricity, the tramway, which were all new technologies and modernizations of the country brought by this king still very respected for this today. In the large main room that we access, we can see a superb golden throne where the king welcomes guests and subjects.

The Gardens and Reception Hall, Uthayan Phumisathian

You can then return to the other side of the pond by walking on the covered wooden bridge next to the royal residence. This leads to a small museum where you will also have something to refresh yourself (drinks and ice creams).

As you continue, you will pass by a beautiful wooden building. "Unfortunately" modern, since it is a reconstruction dating from 1994, ordered by Her Majesty Queen Sirikit, the original having burned in a major fire in 1938 leaving only a ruin...

On the side, you will find a charming little floating wooden residence.

A glimpse of the renovated wooden building.

Uthayan Phumisathian Hall. Under renovation during my last visit.

The Chinese Royal Residence

Further on you will see the observation tower on your right as you arrive at the Chinese royal residence, a gift from the Chinese Chamber of Commerce. The Chinese style is immediately recognizable, with this abundance of red, small touches of gold, the superb tiling of the entrance. The interior can only be visited partially.

The entire building spans 2 floors and contains a throne of King Rama V. When I last visited this year, a structure was being installed around it, probably a major renovation to come…

The observation tower (the lighthouse)

To have a beautiful view of the entire park, the observation tower awaits you not far from there! If you are not afraid of heights or claustrophobic, the spiral staircase will take you up the 3 accessible floors, dominating the entire park.

If you want to complete the visit, you can go to the very end of the park, behind the Chinese mansion. You will then pass in front of a 2-storey building, the residence of the people of the court, in particular the brothers of King Rama V.

Then further on, the personal residences of the concubines (King Rama V had several wives at the same time, before polygamy was stopped by Rama VI).

Bang Pa-In is also a beautiful garden with well-trimmed hedges.

Last monument before going out again, a marble stele in memory of the young queen Sunanda Kumariratana, daughter of Rama IV, and half-sister, but also wife (consort) of Rama V. She drowned in the Chao Phraya when her boat, heading for the palace of Bang Pa In, capsized.

To understand the drowning, you have to know that a law punishable by the death penalty (no less) forbade anyone from touching the queen... Despite many witnesses present, no one took the risk of saving her... She therefore perished with her young daughter, while she was pregnant with a boy... A probable future heir.

Bonus: Wat Niwet, a temple in the shape of a church

I put it as a "bonus" because as such, it is not included in the palace itself, but next to it, in an area outside the enclosure, and for good reason, it is on an island in the middle of the Chao Phraya! There is a unique building there, because from the outside you will see something resembling a church. If it takes up the architectural codes, with a Gothic style and stained glass windows, it is nevertheless a Buddhist temple, the Wat Niwet Thammaprawat.

To get there, you have to take a fairly basic type of cable car, in fact a simple gondola, whose platform is at the parking lot just south of the royal palace (100m). To do before or after having toured the Bang Pa In palace, knowing that access to the temple is free but a donation is welcome because it is the monks who generally operate the gondola, knowing that the temple is still active.

The gondola crossing the Chao Phraya towards Wat Niwet.

So that completes this visit to the royal palace of Bang Pa In! All you have to do is continue to Ayutthaya, or return to Bangkok and you will have spent a good day in the heart of Thai history.

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