Sri Lanka Anuradhapura: Budget Visit and Homestay Meals Anuradhapura, Travel to Sri Lanka 5 (2)Anuradhapura was the capital of Sri Lanka for around 1 years before being abandoned by numerous invasions by South Indians and hidden by the jungle for centuries until the 000th century with the arrival of the British.For this 9th day in Sri Lanka, we had planned this day in this important historical site, in the heart of the cultural triangle. Except that we felt a certain weariness for the old stones… To be more exact, many of the monuments to visit in Anuradhapura are ultimately stupas, similar structures without much visual variety (which, moreover, we also find in Thailand, what we call “chedis”). We left without much conviction with the feeling that we were going to get bored…The other important point being for budgetary reasons, we decided to make sure to visit the city without having to pay the $30 package (i.e. $60 savings) to see the main sites of the historical park. But then, how to do it? Find the right tuk tuk that understands our request, namely “Can we only visit free temples?” Summary hide Visit Anuradhapura (almost) for free! The Bodhi Tree: The True Tree of Buddha Isurumuniya Vihara Ruwanwelisaya and other Stupas Thuparamaya and Mirisawetiya stupas Rice fields and meals at the locals' house Meal at a Sri Lankan family, act I Meal at a Sri Lankan family, act II Visit Anuradhapura (almost) for free!And we can say that we were really lucky. We met our driver by chance on the spot at the exit of the bus. At first, out of "habit", he started to take us to the place to pay for the tickets, but when we explained to him what we were looking for, he was hesitant at first but he ended up taking us to the places he knew were free.Arrived at Anuradhapura station after almost 2 hours by bus.And the first stop was an important Buddhist pilgrimage site since it is the Bodhi tree or pagoda fig tree, also called the Buddha tree because of its connection with the history and founding of Buddhism.In fact, it is under a pipal (its common name or Religious ficus for his Latin name) that Siddartha Gautama aka the Buddha, would have attained enlightenment in Bodh Gaya in India (where we will go a few weeks later, read the article here).On the square in front of the temple where the Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi is located, the sacred tree, called in good French the pagoda tree or Bodhi tree (or simply Bodhi tree in English).Many faithful people come every day.The Bodhi Tree: The True Tree of BuddhaThe particularity of this specimen is that it would come from a branch of the original tree brought back to Sri Lanka by the daughter of King Ashoka, a king whose wife was at the origin of the destruction of the original tree under which the Buddha remained in Bodh Gaya, destruction, because she was jealous of the importance that he gave to the tree by holding a ceremony in its honor each year and also quite simply of the time he spent there.For the record, the tree in Bodh Gaya was destroyed at least 3 times for various reasons, and each time it was replanted from a cutting of the tree present here in Anuradhapura, the one in Bodh Gaya is therefore always a descendant of the original tree.Planted in the 3rd century BC, this makes it the tree planted by the oldest man in the world (and not just the oldest as I have read elsewhere, a record that has been largely beaten by others), respect old tree!The above-mentioned King Ashoka is responsible for the expansion of Buddhism in Sri Lanka and throughout Southeast Asia.The visit is therefore, in fact, free here... For Buddhists... In any case, that's what I think since when Jitima arrived announcing that she was coming from Thailand and then me, as her husband, we were told that making a donation was enough, we would be left with 200 rupees, not sure that this is the case for all ordinary tourists... The tree is surrounded by barriers and the trunk remains inaccessible to the public.The summit and therefore the tree is inaccessible to the public but men are here to take and place the offerings of the faithful around the trunk.Among the things to see around the tree, there is also a temple and you can also see the original stone wall that surrounded the tree. Several other bodhi trees are arranged around the main site, these are intended among other things to protect the sacred tree in case of storms (this one lost branches during big storms in 1907 and 1911, for the anecdote another was cut by an unbalanced person in 1929 ...)Here we can come across bhikkhunis (nuns), that is to say women who have received full ordination following a novitiate of at least two years. This is a movement that was created at the same time as the Buddha (although he was reluctant to do so, considering women to be inferior religiously and civilly speaking, well yes even Buddhism is macho…), his own aunt having been the first, but it disappeared in the 11th century at least for the Buddhist movement called Theravada.The bhikkhunis having survived within the Mahayana tradition as in China (notably in Taiwan), in Korea or in Vietnam, they reappeared in Sri Lanka from 1996 and in Thailand only since 2007, but remain marginal in number and subject to even stricter rules than men.Isurumuniya ViharaFor the rest of the day's program, our driver took us to the Isurumuniya Vihara, we had seen that this temple was not included in the $30 ticket anyway and had to be paid separately, as it was not expensive, we said ok for this temple (let's not forget that we are on the basis of a "free" visit)The entry fee to Isurumuniya Raja Maha Viharaya (full name given on the ticket) is Rs 200 per person. This is a very ancient temple whose foundation is said to date back to the XNUMXnd century BC.The temple is known for its sculptures, including one depicting two lovers, Isurumuni “Pem-Yuwala” (lovers in English as indicated in the description next to the stone, located in the small museum newly affixed next to the temple, although the stone was not originally on the premises).As the whole thing is built around this piece of rock (which also includes a sort of cave, which was developed by adding a building in its extension, this one contains as always Buddhas, swallows have also taken up residence there…) this earned this temple the nickname of “rock temple” hence the mention Isurumuniya Rock temple that you might see in the guides or on the signs.On the way to the next temple.As in every temple, you have to take off your shoes at the entrance and believe me when it's this hot you don't really walk, you jump or even run... Apart from that, the place is nice.The temple consists of a pool, a Buddha placed in a notch cut into the stone (now surrounded by walls), sculptures in the rock itself, others are now exhibited in a mini museum right next to the building housing a reclining Buddha, the latter being recent additions as well as the stupa.The monastery was founded by King Devanampiya Tissa more than 2000 years ago. This temple has the particularity of having housed the tooth relic for a time when it arrived in Sri Lanka.Sculpture of a man of royal stature with his horse's head beside him.The interior of the recent building is colorful. Here, the history of the temple is summarized in the form of tables.At the end of the building a cavity with other statues of Buddha and his disciples (except the one standing on the far left).The space between 2 rocks serves as a base for these bats.A stone seat (unbreakable if you want furniture that lasts!)Ruwanwelisaya and other StupasAfter the Isurumuniya Vihara temple, we went to one of the most imposing stupas of Anuradhapura and yes, apparently, it's free !So here we are at Ruwanwelisaya, 290m wide and 103m high (some sites say 92m), it is one of the largest in the world (the largest brick structure in the world being the Jetavanarama stupa also in Anuradhapura but which we will not see... You can't have everything for free either...).The magnificent trees in front of the great stupa.Hot hot in Anuradhapura!As it is an important place, we were surprised that it was free and that in fact no one came to check if we had tickets, proof that our driver knew what he was doing, and we thank him for that!Near the temple, we saw magnificent large trees, then the driver parked in the parking lot, we walked to the entrance where, as usual, we had to take off our shoes. And there ouch ouch ouch, because it was, but really very very hot, at least the ground was downright burning.Besides, everyone stayed in the shade. To cover the distance between the entrance and the foot of the stupa, we sprinted. I took photos on my heels (the least sensitive part...) quickly before finding a shady spot.The anecdote about this stupa is that its construction was not completed before the death of King Dutugemunu. His brother, Saddha Tissa, knowing that he was sick and dying, had the upper part of the stupa covered with white cloths in order to make it appear that it had been completed.So the king looked at the stupa daily with satisfaction during the whole period he was ill and died in peace, thinking he had seen his work completed…The original stupa was ordered by King Dutugemunu who reigned for 24 years between 161 and 137 BC. But after various renovations and customizations by other kings it now measures double that at 103 m in height and 290 m in circumference.Thuparamaya and Mirisawetiya stupasThe other stupas we saw were the Thuparamaya which was destroyed several times and whose current version is the result of the last reconstruction which took place no later than 1862, so we just took a few photos without even getting off our tuk tuk and continued on our way to the next stupa, the Mirisawetiya.This stupa is also the work of King Dutugemunu (to place this king reigned between 161 – 137 BC) 2 hypotheses or rather legends circulate as an explanation for the creation of this stupa.The first being that after defeating King Elara who reigned until then (he was a Tamil, considered unworthy to reign in Sri Lanka), he put a relic of Buddha in the scepter of the fallen king then went to take a bath, on returning, it was impossible to move the scepter so he had the stupa built.The other version is that he had it built to make up for not sharing a curry with the local Buddhist community.This stupa (I keep thinking it's a stupa and not a stupa, but hey apparently it's definitely masculine...) is also the result of a major renovation.Before our next temple, we stopped in a kind of square where these little girls were opening lotus flower buds which are used for offerings.Thuparama, another example of a structure called "Vatadage" (literally circular sanctuary) like the one in Polonnaruwa, typical of Sri Lanka. Vatadage dating back to the 1st century BC of which only the posts and the stupa in its center remain today. A structure that previously covered the stupa, it was the first to be built after the introduction of Buddhism in Sri Lanka. The structure is very similar to that of Lankaramaya also in Anuradhapura.Monkeys were in the shade. Gray langurs.Next we come to the Mirisavatiya Dagaba. In an attempt to restore it in the 80s, the structure collapsed, destroying in particular the top of the Vahalkada (known as a frontispiece in French and which designates the elements that frame and decorate the main facade of a large building, here, they are blocks normally arranged at the four cardinal corners in order to embellish, but also with the addition of a stone slab allowing to place flowers and other offerings, but I already said that, I think?).The stupa as it stands today dates from 1993, covering the rest of the original one which measured 51 m by 61 in diameter (according to the measurements of a British student in the 59th century) against 43 m high by XNUMX in diameter today.Rice fields and meals at the locals' houseTo end this day of sightseeing, while our driver suggested that we come and eat at his place, he took us to see the royal garden, or Ranmasu Uyana, located on the edge of the Tissa Wewa water reserve which was used for irrigation.Known as the Royal Goldfish Park or Royal Pleasure Garden, located just north of the Isurumuniya Rock Temple (on the edge of the Tissa wewa reservoir), the garden features ponds, a cave, carvings including one nicknamed the "stargate" (locally Sakwala Chakraya) because of its strange character with its circular shape reminiscent of a world map. There is also what would have served as a "dressing room" for the royal family which is in excellent condition today, see some pictures of the places here.Starting to get a little tired of the ruins, the heat overwhelming us and thinking that it was just a "simple" garden, we contented ourselves with taking a few photos of a rice field with 2 guys at work before leaving... with regret for my part when I saw the photos, a word of advice: go and have a look!At the entrance to Ranmasu Uyana.We pass in front of the Dakkhina stupa which remained unfinished, but would have, a priori, been the largest Stupa in Sri Lanka if finished, it's stupid…Meal at a Sri Lankan family, act IAfter this little session of observing local life, our driver who was obviously hungry had already started the tuk tuk and was ready to go. We arrive at his house, well, he seems to earn a pretty good living, because the house although lacking decoration inside is rather well made.We wash our hands and then we are presented with all the dishes that are brought to us on the table, all prepared by our driver's wife. Curry of course and beef dishes in sauce, potatoes. The rice used was special because of its smell, very strong, a bit like a sewer smell that left a strange impression...But apart from that, it was pretty good but quite a strange atmosphere, because if our driver nibbled a little, we ate mostly alone.We chatted a bit about life here, and after taking the souvenir photo, he took us back to the bus, because we were heading back to our hotel in Dambulla. We paid for per day, meals included, 2000 rupees, a good deal for a good day at a reduced price!In front of our tuk tuk driver's house.The family who offered us this meal. On the left, the mother, the driver with 3 of her little ones, the mother of the children and the eldest. It turns out that the family was Muslim and not Buddhist so no pork on the menu, but beef, so much the better it was a bit of a change for me.His wife and the youngest.The bus cost us 360 rupees, different from the outward journey where we first took a bus at 180 rupees then a van at 40 rupees and finally a local bus at 20 rupees…Once back, after a little rest and especially a good shower, it was already evening.Meal at a Sri Lankan family, act IISo here we are again at a local's house, we understand that in fact, her living room serves as a "restaurant" while she shows us a sign in front of the road (Disni Village! Great name!).And unsurprisingly, since we had just eaten one at lunchtime, "but what's the meal for tonight?" we asked ourselves, laughing, obviously knowing the answer... Curry.It cost us 670 Rupees, but it wasn't great since we could easily compare it to our lunch in Anuradhapura which was much better. But hey, it was a local meal so always a fun experience... Did you like the article? Vote on the article Note globale 5 / 5. Number of votes: 2 No votes yet. Be the first to rate this article! Did you like the article? Follow me on social media Culture and traditions Unesco World Heritage Local meetings Historic site 0 2 Roman 19/10/2013
