Ipoh developed thanks to the exploitation of the tin mines in the Kinta Valley. During our stay, it was mainly the limestone quarries that were eating away at the surrounding cliffs.
Ipoh is located between Penang, where we came from, and Kuala Lumpur . It is also at the foot of the mountains where the Cameron Highlands are located , known for their tea plantations.
Ipoh is surrounded by caves and limestone cliffs, but its charm also lies in its town center. There you'll find Chinese merchant houses and British colonial buildings, a heritage that reminds me in places of the streets of Phuket Town . The murals offer yet another reason to stroll through them.
As in George Town , street art is scattered throughout the old town. Several pieces are by the same artist as in Penang, Ernest Zacharevic . Searching for them provides a guide for exploring this former mining town.
If we also count an atypical local attraction that is Kellie's Castle, 2 days to visit Ipoh are not too much! A quick overview.
Getting to (and from) Ipoh
Before getting to the heart of the matter, we must of course address the transport option. If you plan for example to make a trip from Kuala Lumpur to Penang via the Cameron Highlands or vice versa, consider a stop in Ipoh, it will cut your journey in 2 (even if the overall journey is not excessively long).
The train is an option to consider from Kuala Lumpur or Penang. KTMB's ETS trains serve Ipoh from KL Sentral and Butterworth, the station located on the mainland opposite Penang. Ipoh station is next to the old town, while the bus terminal is further out. You can check departures and fares on the KTMB website.
In our case, we had chosen the bus.
We arrived in Ipoh from Penang. Leaving from Sungai Nibong station, it took us just over two hours to reach the Ipoh bus terminal. We paid 24 RM per person: a price from our time there, not to be taken as a current price.
For buses from Kuala Lumpur or to the Cameron Highlands, check schedules, durations, and fares when booking. For the Cameron Highlands, search for Tanah Rata as your destination.
Another option to continue the journey: reach the island of Langkawi , by combining a journey to a departure port, such as Kuala Perlis, and then the ferry.
For long-distance buses, check the terminal indicated on your ticket. The Amanjaya Terminal is located outside of Ipoh city center, so you will need to arrange a transfer to reach your hotel or the old town.
To get to the city center from Amanjaya, you can take a taxi or use Grab. The app displays the fare before you book.
Car rental available on site
We opted for a rental car. While planning our short trip, we realized that the sites were quite far apart, because in addition to Kellie's Castle, there are also temples located outside the city center. And since I don't really like relying on taxis or public transport, it seemed like the easy and ideal solution.
I booked a small Malaysian car, a Perodua Viva Elite, using a local rental company's website. Its small size reduced the cost but was more than sufficient for our needs.
Price paid during our stay for the day and a half rental: 165 RM (approximately €36 at the time) with pick-up and drop-off from the Amanjaya terminal, convenient.
Heritage Trail, a tour route in Ipoh
As I explained in the introduction, it's possible to follow a route to see the main street art pieces in the city center. To do this, head to the tourist office to pick up the essential maps for this tour: the Ipoh Mural Art Trail and the Ipoh Heritage Trail.
Note that if for our part we wanted to focus mainly on the murals, and that we therefore mainly used the first rather than the Heritage Trail, which passes by colonial buildings such as the train station, the town hall, etc.
If you are interested in this information, I have included the Heritage Trail map here.
Heritage Trail
Day 1: On the trail of street art (old town)
We parked somewhere close to the clock tower and so our first stop was to go to White Coffee located on the corner of the street where the "Old Uncle" painting and the tourist office are.
In addition to the reputation of these Malaysian milk coffees, it should be noted that it is precisely from Ipoh! Its particularity comes from the fact that the coffee beans are roasted in palm oil and the coffee from these beans is served with condensed milk.
This break after our morning bus and picking up the car rental was a way to gain some energy before setting off on the walk.
The route we took was more or less the same as the one I've marked on the map below. Keep in mind that in our case, we wandered around a bit to see attractions other than the paintings, including the little alley called Concubine Lane.
Kong Heng Square and the main murals
So after this coffee break and a few photos of the nearby Padang square, we first take a look at our first street art, paper plane. A kid in a yellow t-shirt flying on a paper plane (hence the title).
Then we return to the main street, passing a corner building, the Chung Thye Phin Building, which can serve as a landmark. A few steps further on, we come across some paintings, including one of Marilyn Monroe and one of a child. It's at this point that we turn into a small alley, heading towards Kong Heng Square.
Kong Heng Square is a small haven of peace nestled within a collection of old colonial-style houses, a mix of renovated and original features. It's a bit of a hipster area with small cafes, trendy clothing boutiques, and souvenir shops.
This is also where we did some shopping and took the opportunity to eat a bite.
After wandering around and using the restrooms (useful information…), we went back outside and visited three important murals. The first, titled Hummingbird, is a beautiful mural that's hard to miss.
The second is Kopi-O, a collection of sachets containing the precious local coffee (black coffee this time). Finally, the third is a very large mural called "Evolution," referencing the city's mining past.
This last fresco is next to a small local museum, Han Chin Pet Soo, which we don't visit but I'll note it here if you're interested. Our last visit for this first part of the walking tour in the old center of Ipoh, ends by crossing the alley called Concubine Lane.
Concubine lane
Concubine Lane, or the alley of the concubines in proper English, is known to Cantonese-speaking locals as Yee Lai Hong (and officially it is Jalan Panglima).
It's an old, century-old alleyway that, until just a few years ago, was in a state of advanced neglect. Most of the buildings lining it were overgrown with vines and had become ruins due to abandonment. But it had been revitalized by the local council before our visit in order to turn it into an attraction and draw tourists.
Bingo!
It works, because indeed, there were quite a few people. From the photos I've seen, it has changed a lot. The walkway has been completely redone with paving stones, the facades have been redone, and the renovated buildings are now converted into restaurants, souvenir shops, and other businesses.
As with most historical places, there are several stories surrounding the origins of the street's unique name. The most popular being that at the time, Concubine Lane was said to have been a meeting place where wealthy Chinese merchants and British officers would meet their mistresses.
Mural Lane
After a busy early afternoon, we wanted to move on and explore another part of the city, located further east. So we got back in the car to park in this new area (to save some time, as it's thankfully easy to find a space) and then set off again for another walking loop.
Which gives this:
As mentioned in the title, it is an entire street called Mural Lane that interests us. We park on the street of the mosque (Jalan Masjid), which you can go and see on the way.
We initially got lost by going in the wrong direction before retracing our steps and taking a small alleyway. This led us straight to Mural Lane, which then took us past a series of brightly coloured walls.
Mural Lane is a collection of murals, particularly colorful and generally quite cheerful. Since it's a bit further east, it's a less visited part of the city, so it's simple, we were completely alone.
After lingering for a good fifteen minutes on this street, we continued our stroll. We passed by a nearby park where there's a covered walkway with a food court, the Medan Selera Dato Tahwil Azar. The advantage of this system is that it offers a wide variety of small dishes at low prices, very common in Asia.
We passed a few buildings that looked old, but everything was very quiet. There were few people on the sidewalks, no cars; it felt so strange compared to Bangkok…
We even started to wonder if it was a public holiday or something… By the time we finished our loop around this neighborhood, it was already 17 PM. We were in a commercial area with a few restaurants, a grocery store, and shops selling local biscuits. The buildings are generally in the Sino-Portuguese style, contrasting quite a bit with the buildings we could see in the distance (hotels, I think).
As night fell, it was time to head back to our hotel.
2nd day: outdoor sites (cave, temples, castle)
For our second day, we left the city center to visit the temples and caves of Gunung Rapat, and then Kellie Castle. This was the part of the trip where our rental car was most useful. If you only have one day in Ipoh, you can still enjoy the old town quite well on foot.
Kek Lok Tong Cave
First visit of the day, the Kek Lok Tong cave. Having become a place of worship in the 1920s, the cave resisted as best it could the destruction wrought by the mining companies in the surrounding area, of which the site was a part in the 60s.
Inside, besides a few visible stalactites and stalagmites, one can see various statues of Buddhas and Chinese deities. The high walls of this cavern are beautifully sculpted by centuries of erosion.
Adjacent to the cave, which can be traversed from one side to the other, is a garden area with a lake in its center. In the background, one can unfortunately see the devastation left by the mines, which are still active in the region, as a completely eroded cliff face is visible.
Most of the people who frequent the place are of Chinese origin, descendants of the workers who exploited the mines at the beginning of Ipoh's development.
Ling Sen Tong Temple
After the cave, we skirted the cliff area, this time heading west of the cliffs, the cave being east of the same group of karst peaks. In this area, there is a series of several Chinese temples.
Sometimes built directly into the rock, with small caves containing Buddha statues, the tour began with the Ling Sen Tong temple. This Taoist temple features a garden filled with colorful statues. Various deities and animals depict motifs from Chinese mythology, particularly the epic of the Monkey King.
From the platform located to the left of the temple, you can see a global view of the temple, nestled in the cliff. Moreover, its English name means Rock of Heavenly Spirits, which can be translated into good French as the "rock of heavenly spirits".
At the other end of the platform is a reclining Buddha statue, nothing transcendent overall so we didn't linger there either.
Nam Thean Tong Temple
Also spelled Nan Tian Tong, this temple seems less interesting to us, so to sum up, a quick photo and then we're off 😉
To give you some background, this is a temple founded over 120 years ago, when a Taoist monk discovered the cavity at the foot of this cliff. The building's facade that you see actually serves only to cover this cavity.
The cave contains various statues of Buddha and deities, as do the previous temple (and the next one, so you can see the repetition). The temple's name, in fact, could simply be translated as " cave" to house the different Buddhist figures of the "southern heaven" (essentially, "paradise").
Sam Poh Tong Temple
Probably the most interesting of the three in my opinion. If only for the stunning garden. With koi carp swimming peacefully in the pond, from which emerge rock formations adorned with plants and small shrubs.
The pagoda, resembling a floating boat, completes the scene, which, even though it dates back to 1993, earned this space the title of best landscaped garden in Malaysia. Before even entering the garden, one is immediately struck by the large Chinese gate leading to the cave section of the temple—yes, just like the other temples.
But there, it is still a cave with a high ceiling whose depth can be admired by climbing via a series of steps to a promontory overlooking the place of prayer.
Kellie's Castle – The Unfinished Castle
This unusual and unfinished castle is the work of William Kellie Smith , a Scottish engineer who went to Malaysia in 1890 to make his fortune. The beginning of his success came thanks to his partnership with Alma Baker, the owner of a company negotiating land development and road construction contracts in the state of Perak.
Making his income grow, Smith acquired a 400-hectare piece of forest south of Ipoh, where he operated a rubber tree plantation and invested in tin mining.
With his business flourishing, he brought his lifelong love, Agnes, from Scotland in 1903. She gave birth to a daughter a year later. In 1909, he built his first home, Kellas House. Already distinctive and renowned for its blend of architectural styles, Smith wanted to celebrate the arrival of his heir in 1915.
He then undertook the construction of a residence in the form of a veritable castle. Having a certain fascination with Hinduism and India, he imported bricks and marble from that country, even employing 70 workers specially chartered from India to work on this project mixing Scottish, Moorish, and Tamil Indian styles.
In the grip of a Spanish flu epidemic, they requested permission to build a place of worship nearby. Smith readily agreed and, in gratitude, received a statue of himself on the building; this is why you will find a small Hindu temple 1,5 km from the castle, dedicated to the deity Mariamman.
During a business trip to Lisbon in 1926, Kellie Smith fell ill and died at the age of 56 from pneumonia. Overwhelmed by grief, her lifelong love returned to Scotland with their two children, leaving the castle unfinished. It was subsequently sold to an English company, Harrisons & Crosfield.
Today used for tourism, it is said to be haunted by members of the family who were never able to enjoy the place, notably William Kellie Smith who is said to haunt the corridors… As a side note, his daughter never returned and his son was killed during the Second World War.
One room has been redesigned in a period style to give an idea of what it would have looked like. The rest consists of empty rooms with explanatory panels indicating the intended function of each space. The layout of corridors and secret rooms is also visible.
In the large 6-story tower, there is a space that was intended for an elevator, which would have been the first in all of Malaysia.
It's not overcrowded, so the visit is quite pleasant. The view from the rooftop is lovely; it was designed and built to offer panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. You can also clearly see the ruins of the original house (Kellas House, mentioned earlier), of which only the exterior yellow facades remain.
Gunung Lang Recreational Park
Originally planned for my itinerary, but time was tight, we just parked and took a look at this area surrounded by karst cliffs. It's a park with a children's playground, picnic areas, and a mini-zoo.
It is a place for families to go out on weekends, enjoying the setting and the lake, covering half of the area of the 30 hectares of the park.
What else to see in Ipoh
Let's be clear, in such a short time, we didn't have time to see everything. While there are certainly well-known sites in this area that don't interest us, we still missed some places we would have liked to see. Several sites mentioned below are located around the village of Gopeng, southeast of Ipoh, which could therefore be a viable base once you've explored the sites in Ipoh itself.
It is also worth noting that in this same region, which borders the sea, you can afterwards relax on the island of Pangkor , without having to go all the way back up to Penang.
Gua Tempurung Cave
Probably the one I would have liked to see the most in this list. This cave contains rooms with ceiling heights reaching 120 m! It is possible to visit it according to 4 different routes, depending on the time you want to spend there, from 40 min for the shortest to a complete tour to cross this cave of more than 3 km long! The return is via the underground river.
Lost World
The Lost World of Tambun is a theme park nestled at the foot of limestone cliffs. It therefore lives up to its name.
It's a theme park divided into several sections, the most "artificial" being the water park. The rest consists of many activities that take advantage of the setting offered by the cliffs. Indeed, you'll find activities such as via ferrata, canoeing, ziplining, and jungle trekking in the section of the park called Adventure Park.
A great outing for the whole family because there is something for everyone.
Perak Cave Temple
Another cave temple, this one is in a different area from the others (north while the others are south of the old center of Ipoh). What does it have more than the others? A beautiful view of the Kinta Valley, which may justify taking a look.
Tibetan Temple (Enlightened Heart Buddhist Temple)
Come on, probably the last temple on this list, but this one is a bit special (otherwise I wouldn't bore you with it). It's a Tibetan temple (marked Tibetan temple – Tambun on Google Maps) founded in 1976.
What sets it apart, among other things, is its 13-story tower, completed in 2009. Near its summit, a Buddha statue is nestled between the floors, in addition to the larger, more "conventional" statue found at the foot of a karst cliff. It is this latter statue that gives the place its unique charm.
Hoga: Gaharu Tea Valley
If you'd like to see a plantation different from those in the Cameron Highlands, Gaharu Tea Valley is worth a look. Despite its name, it doesn't cultivate tea plants: the gaharu is a tree known for its agarwood. Its leaves are used to prepare an infusion sold under the name "gaharu tea."
The estate offers a guided van tour to explore the plantation. You can also sample gaharu-based drinks and enjoy the scenery.
Trek to the Rafflesias
Last info, because I'm not going to put everything either (I sorted it out for you 😉
It is possible to trek in the nearby mountains to see the famous Rafflesia, the largest flower in the world (which can also be found in Thailand, notably in Khao Sok National Park).
Accessible from the village of Ulu Geroh, itself 12 km from Gopeng mentioned above, treks typically start at 9am for a return before 17pm.
Where to sleep in Ipoh
Many will, for obvious reasons, prefer to stay in the heart of the old town in order to stay closer to the main attractions and to benefit from the city's restaurants and transport more easily.
Having a rental car, our reasoning was quite different, leaving us free to sleep in an unexpected area, which would also allow us to test an area of small local restaurants.
Our choice of hotel in Ipoh
Travelland Hotel
Looking on my favorite site (I'm talking about Agoda of course), I came across this hotel. Out of the way, yes, but since we had the car, it didn't bother me.
The idea was to have a nice hotel at a low price, without being limited to the old town (especially since I absolutely wanted a designated parking lot so as not to have a hard time)
Based on these criteria, we booked our only night there at the Travelland Hotel. During our stay, we paid 114 RM (approximately €25 at the time) with breakfast included.
Other hotel choices in Ipoh
Among the hotels that come up in the "usual" choices is the French Hotel , which I'm not choosing just because of the name. It's a budget hotel (from €20), located only 1 km from the old town.
If you're traveling solo, Beds In Garden Hostel should suit you, with bed rates starting at €6, even though it's a bit further out (1,2 km). The hostel is new and very clean. They also have a room with a large mattress for couples.
For our part, I had hesitated between the Merton Hotel , located outside the city , which has a certain style even if that polished concrete wall look has become too common in recent years. And since it was slightly more expensive and breakfast wasn't included, that's why we settled on our choice mentioned above.
Further south, but roughly the same distance from the center (1 km), there's the M Boutique Hotel . More expensive (from €32) but significantly more stylish, and breakfast is included.
A great option if you're traveling with family is The Majestic Condo Ipoh , a 2-bedroom apartment with a pool in the building. However, it's a 20-minute walk to the old town (which isn't too bad).
Book a hotel in Ipoh
If you don't find what you're looking for among the suggestions above, feel free to explore the various options in Ipoh using the search tool. Please note that I receive a commission on every hotel booking made through this site. This commission doesn't affect the price for you, but it helps me keep this blog running. Thank you in advance, and happy searching!
My opinion on Ipoh
For once, it was not completely out of "obligation" that we landed in Ipoh. If indeed this outing in Malaysia was the consequence of one of my frequent "visa" outings, the choice to go through Ipoh was well-intentioned and well-considered. Proof of this is that there were enough attractions to make us come.
It was Jitima who first told me about it. Ipoh is becoming a trendy destination for Thais. The appeal comes partly from the murals and the old-world charm, a hipster mix that makes it all quite photogenic.
And personally, I have no regrets. Between the charm of the old colonial buildings, the rather "clean" aspect of the city (I say this in the sense that compared to the mess of electrical wires in Thai cities, it's a change!) and above all, the street art works that brighten up the visit, Ipoh has many advantages.
My primary reason for choosing Ipoh is that it's located in a mountainous region and is surrounded by several karst cliffs. This aspect unfortunately disappointed me somewhat, as these cliffs struggle to withstand the lure of profit and the destructive frenzy of mining companies. The hills are being steadily leveled on both sides (although local associations are fighting this to preserve their heritage).
For a period of one or two days, which is not too much, this is a step you should consider during your future stay in Malaysia.
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