The Jim Thompson House is a museum , but first and foremost, it was originally a real home—the former residence of the American businessman after whom the house is named. If you're planning a trip to Bangkok soon, you've probably heard of it. Its unique feature is that it offers a veritable oasis of greenery in the heart of Bangkok, showcasing an example of traditional Thai houses, all complemented by a collection of art and antiques, as Jim Thompson was a passionate collector.
1- The crazy story of Jim Thompson and the origin of his house
In fact, "crazy" is above all a rather atypical journey and destiny. This will be summarized for you on the booklet that you will be given as a ticket. Considered to be the one who revived the silk industry in Thailand, Jim Thompson ended up there somewhat by chance...
A volunteer from the start of America's entry into World War II, Jim Thompson was quickly taken under the wing of the OSS, a nascent intelligence agency that would later become the CIA.
While he was supposed to parachute over Cambodia on the day of Japan's surrender in August 1945, his plane ended up turning around and landing in Bangkok. Charmed by the city and its inhabitants, he thought about staying there. His first project was to restore an old hotel on the banks of the Chao Phraya, the Oriental. Founded in 1876, it was the very first hotel in Thailand and at that time it was falling into disrepair.
As an interesting side note, it still exists and is now the very famous luxury hotel Mandarin Oriental.
In partnership with a German photographer, the project was abandoned, but he still used the establishment as his main residence until 1950. Jim Thompson came from a wealthy family ; his father worked in the textile industry. Having noticed a boom in the silk industry during his time in Syria during the war, combined with the post-war textile shortage, Jim Thompson, the shrewd entrepreneur that he was, came to Thailand with the idea of undertaking a similar project.
At that time, the inhabitants produced mainly for personal use, but Jim Thompson intended to develop this industry for export. Knowing well the tastes of Westerners, Thompson introduced modern methods of weaving silk, which increased production, while maintaining the family base of the industrial structure.
They then created collections that sold well and made a name for themselves, particularly by making silk costumes for feature films.
Having an interest in architecture and interior design, just like his father (he studied in the field but did not obtain his degree…), he embarked on creating his own home. Composed of several teakwood houses, he established his “nest” on the canal bank, directly opposite the neighborhood where the weavers with whom he began to work were located.
The house is a clever mix of several traditional teak wood stilt houses, assembled in a Western-style arrangement while preserving the very Asian character of these beautiful residences.
Completed in 1959, Jim Thompson lived there until his death in 1967. While on holiday in the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia, he reportedly never returned from a post-meal stroll…
Added to this, Jim Thompson is a keen art lover, he has accumulated several antique objects and statues which are displayed in the garden and the house.
2- How does the house visit take place – what to expect?
Once you have your tickets in hand, head to the other courtyard at the back, you will be asked for your tickets and will be accompanied to the counter where your visit schedule will be defined. Generally, there is a 5-10 min delay before the visit (sometimes a little more depending on the number of people).
This weather allows you to stroll through the garden and appreciate this green oasis, you can possibly have a refreshment at the restaurant next door. By the way, if you want to have lunch, it's also an excellent address (even if it has unfortunately become expensive since the last renovation).
The tour begins outside, where photography is permitted. You will be shown some of the masterpieces collected by Jim Thompson: ancient Buddha statues, Chinese basins, and carved wooden panels, also of Chinese origin, which inspired his fabric designs. It's an open space intended for receptions, but traditionally, Thai houses are built on stilts to protect animals and tools from the rain, as well as to ventilate the house from below.
Once you have finished your walk outside, you must leave your shoes and bags in the designated lockers. There's no need to bring your cameras or mobile phones; photography is prohibited inside.
You then enter through the entrance hall, contrasting with the style of use in Thailand, with in particular its floor in black and white marble slabs from Italy. A touch for the blow taking up the more European style, since traditional houses did not have this kind of configuration, the stairs of the entrance being then located outside the house.
The windows of the original house were bricked up to create niches for Buddha statues. As you ascend to the upper floor, you'll notice the walls covered with large painted tapestries from various temples. Next, you'll enter the former kitchen, where beautifully decorated benjarongs—traditional Thai tea sets—are displayed. It's a welcome opportunity to cool off, as this is the only room with air conditioning (modern, of course; there was no air conditioning back then).
The guide (all women, to my knowledge) will regularly ask questions about the usefulness of certain objects, etc. In general, they have rather fun personalities, making the visit enjoyable without feeling too formal.
In the grand living room, which you may have glimpsed during your walk around the outside, you will be told that practically nothing has been moved. For although it is now a museum, it was first and foremost a home, and it has remained virtually unchanged since Jim Thompson's death.
Practical information
Getting to Jim Thompson's house
To get there, it's very simple, head towards the terminal of the Silom line of the BTS, I named the National Stadium station. From there, take exit 1 (Exit 1) and at the bottom of the stairs head to the left until you cross the small street of Kasem San 2, the museum is indicated and is at the end of this street.
Since the canal is nearby, you can also get there by boat from Sukhumvit, for example. You need to get off at the Hua Chang stop (if you're coming from Sukhumvit, you'll have to change boats at the stop next to Central World; Hua Chang will then be the next stop).
Once you arrive at the courtyard, you can take your tickets and request a tour in French (in any case, you will be asked "English or French" by default), then you can take the time to observe the silk cocoons on display to show the process carried out to obtain the raw silk thread.
3- To complete the visit: go to Ban Krua, the weavers' district
To complete the visit to the museum, I suggest you go to the neighborhood mentioned, which is opposite my house. To do this, go back to the street and head left towards the canal and follow it on your left.
You will pass Jim Thompson's house again and see wooden houses opposite. Continue until you come to a bridge over the San Saep Canal, where public boats run between the old town and the centre.
Crossing over, you will arrive at Ban Khrua, a Muslim community whose history with Bangkok dates back more than 200 years (an interesting history, well summarized here on the Ban Khrua community page ). It was there that Mr. Thompson went to recruit the community's weavers.
And there are still at least 2 houses producing silk fabrics by hand, using complex wooden machines. After crossing the bridge, turn left down the stairs and continue for about 50m, you should see a small sign for Aood Bankrua Thaisilk on your right, then turn into an alley and you will see a small sign a few meters further indicating the house.
Eventually, you will hear the typical clicking sound of the weavers working. For those who find it difficult to find, here is a map in addition to the explanations above:
Don't be shy despite the language barrier, take off your shoes and don't hesitate to enter the old man's house.
This one worked with Mr. Thompson when he was younger (a photo attests to this, see above where Jim Thompson inspects silk threads at the edge of the canal, the old gentleman in question is the one seated on the right and you will see this same photo in the house).
Inside the house (also made of wood, but not teak), you can see a weaving machine, which an elderly woman might be operating. It also allows you to "admire" the typical clutter of a Thai home, and on the other side of the living room, there's a machine for winding threads and some examples of fabrics made here, in the form of scarves and tablecloths that he sells (they cost half as much as in the Jim Thompson shop, but the patterns and colors aren't always appealing, although sometimes there are some beautiful examples, so don't hesitate to take a look!).
In the space next to the house you might smell a strong odor emanating from the large buckets used to dye the silk threads, which are then dried in the attic above.
4- Other old houses in Bangkok
While old wooden houses are rare, fortunately some still exist. Some have been converted into guesthouses/hotels, while others are still used for personal use (you can see them along the canals of Bangkok) and others, like the Jim Thompson Museum, have opened to visitors.
Here are 2 examples.
Suan Pakkad Palace
Located less than 2km from Jim Thompson's house is an interesting royal palace. Indeed, Suan Pakkad Palace is the first private residence in Thailand to be converted into a museum. Its owners, including Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga, are directly linked to the main house of the ruling dynasty of the Kingdom of Thailand, as she was one of the granddaughters of the illustrious monarch Rama V.
Built in traditional Thai style and opened in 1952, Suan Pakkad Palace is a combination of fine arts and ancient artifacts from the era of His Royal Highness Prince Paribatra Sukhumbandhu, son of His Majesty King Chulalongkorn, Rama V and Her Majesty Queen Sukhumala Marasri.
Don't be put off by the modern building through which you enter to pay for your tickets, the rest is well worth a look. The museum has a large collection of antiques, collected and passed down from generation to generation.
There you will find some of the oldest pottery dating back 4 years, bronze tools and of course its share of statues and images of Buddha of various styles and periods, the oldest of which are close to a thousand years old.
The rest of the visit is nonetheless uninteresting. In particular, we enter a garden, which contrasts with the overhead train line from the airport that passes just behind. At the back, there is a beautiful lacquer pavilion on stilts, added in 1959. Dismantled from its original location and with beautiful gold and black reliefs telling passages from the Ramayana and the life of Buddha; this small building is no less than 450 years old.
This information is partially translated from the official website ( Suan Pakkad Palace ), which contains the entire history of the place, but is only available in English…
Practical information
MR Kukrit Heritage Home
For once, no royal residence, but rather that of a private individual, well, almost… Not just any person either, since Mom Rachawongse (MR) Kukrit Pramoj was a man educated at Oxford and still possesses royal blood since he is said to be the great-grandson of King Rama II (whose acronym MR indicates this rank in the royal hierarchy in Thailand).
Founder of the Siam Rath newspaper upon his return from England, he was also an artist at heart with an interest in dramatic art, writing (he wrote several novels and short stories, plays, and poems) and even politics, which led him to briefly lead the country in the mid-70s (Prime Minister between 1974 and 1975).
Above all, he was a staunch defender of Thai traditions and culture. His home is another excellent example of the preservation of these beautiful traditional teak houses, here comprised of five buildings. It is the culmination of over 20 years of work and passion.
The particularity of Thai houses, as you may have noticed so far, is that they are precisely made to be easily moved (they did not use nails!), which means that we find several houses of this type whose original location was elsewhere.
The various buildings were therefore purchased separately from different locations around central Thailand, dismantled, and reassembled at the current site. Some of these structures are over 100 years old. The whole complex sits in the middle of a garden featuring exotic plants, a small pond, and bonsai trees, making this visit certainly as interesting as a tour of Jim Thompson's house.
Practical information
5- The dangers of modernization
So here are some good examples of preserving what tends to disappear overall in a Bangkok in constant metamorphosis, where modernity too easily replaces wooden houses (a concrete example being the entire neighborhood behind Mahakan Fort , which was razed…) Often simply judged “obsolete”, we often forget the duty to remember and the preservation of a heritage far more important than this single frantic race towards modernity.
Because being modern does not necessarily mean just having beautiful, high-tech, state-of-the-art buildings, but it also means knowing how to integrate the old, without denigrating or denying it, but on the contrary, by preserving it and giving it the place of a past that does not need to be hidden.
Would you like a little dose of museum? Which house did you visit?
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