Savannakhet is a tranquil city nestled on the banks of the Mekong, far from the hustle and bustle of Southeast Asian capitals. The atmosphere is simple, a little retro, with a few tired colonial buildings, temples, and a truly calm pace of life.
This city will suit those who enjoy unpretentious destinations where you can stroll at a leisurely pace. And if Savannakhet is already relatively undiscovered, its surroundings are even less so. It's not exactly a must-see destination, but rather a pleasant stop for those traveling through Laos from north to south.
If you enjoy observing local life, strolling around Savannakhet easily fills a day, between That Ing Hang and the villages scattered along the small roads.
What to see in Savannakhet (the city)
The colonial city center
As you probably know (I hope!), Laos was part of French Indochina for a few decades (1893-1949). Savannakhet, like other cities in the country, inherited administrative buildings and private houses in a Western style, which contrasted sharply with the local constructions of the time, which were mainly made of wood.
Today, this contrast is less visible since the old huts have disappeared (at least in the city), but several traces of this past can still be found. Administrative buildings still display their functions in French under their Lao names, which is a little surprising at first.
Most of these buildings date from the 1920s. Some are sadly abandoned, while others have been renovated, particularly since the opening of the Friendship Bridge, which has breathed new life into this once very quiet town. These buildings can only be viewed from the outside, as most are private properties.
A good example is the Mekong Hotel, where I stayed during a previous visit, housed in a former colonial building overlooking the Mekong River. It also features some recently added street art murals that bring a touch of color to the old town center. Another hotel I tried (also now closed) also had a beautiful mansion as its backdrop.
The Church of Saint Therese
According to information found, the Church of St. Theresa was built in 1914 or the 20s, and it is still in use, particularly for the Vietnamese Catholics of Savannakhet. Mass is celebrated every morning except Saturday.
It is not far from this church that most of the points of interest in the city and the old houses are located, especially around the market square (Talat Yen) located just opposite, with small shops, cafes and restaurants all around.
It is also not far from this church that one will find a shop for rent a motorbike. Refer to the map at the bottom of the article.
Wat Saynhaphum: the main temple
There aren't many religious sites in Savannakhet that are truly worth seeing. There's a recently built and very colorful Chinese temple, a Vietnamese temple, and a few classic Buddhist temples.
But apart from that, the main temple of the city is Wat Saynhaphum (also called Wat Yai Xayaphoum). It is the largest and, above all, the oldest temple in Savannakhet (dating from 1542), and one of the best examples of traditional religious architecture in the city.
Wat Saynhaphum is located directly across the Mekong River and houses a school for novice monks. Deceived by its rather "modern" appearance, undoubtedly due to recent renovations, I hadn't paid it much attention at the time. However, inside lies a sacred library (Ho Tay), which preserves manuscripts approximately 200 years old, written on palm leaves.
This makes it the most sacred Buddhist temple in the region. It is at the heart of the Lao New Year celebrations (Mi Lao Bi, in mid-April, as Songkran at their Thai neighbors) as well as the Mekong River boat racing festival (Boun Suang Huea).
During my first visit, I saw a Buddha statue factory within the temple grounds. This was probably related to the site's renovation, as I haven't been able to find any recent photos showing the same setup.
The banks of the Mekong
Originally, several "mukata" restaurants (typical grilled food cooked on a kind of griddle) were located here. Since then, the docks have been widened and completely redesigned. Right in front of Wat Saynhaphum, there is now a large naga sculpture, where Lao families often come to take souvenir photos.
Opposite, you can see the small Thai town of Mukdahan...including a large Buddha statue perched on a hill. The walk along the riverbank remains pleasant, even if it sorely lacks greenery.
And speaking of that, heading north, you'll come across several small public parks that come alive, especially in the evening when the heat subsides. This is when locals go out to exercise, alone or in groups, with the famous "Zumba"-style dances often seen in urban areas of Thailand (but less frequently in Laos).
Markets and local life
Savannakhet doesn't have the frenetic energy of Thai markets, but it does offer some lively spots in the evenings, with stalls, small restaurants, and a glimpse into local life. Here's what you can see in the city.
The LaoChaLeun Night Market (Savan Mixay Night Market)
This is Savannakhet's main night market, located on the banks of the Mekong River. The stalls are mostly dedicated to local street food: skewers, noodles, desserts, smoothies… Nothing “festive” like in more touristy cities, but a calm, family atmosphere where you can eat for almost nothing.
Street markets and small stalls
Depending on the time and day, you'll find vendors selling fruit, vegetables, snacks, dried fish, and street vendors. During the day, there's a simple market (simply called Main Market 2) near the bus station. It's not so much a "must-see," but it gives a true glimpse into daily life.
In the evening, in addition to the one mentioned above, there was a small market with a few stalls in the square near the church of Saint Thérèse.
Savan ITECC: the local shopping center
Apart from this shopping center, we didn't see a single new building (remember, this is the second largest city in Laos). Savan ITECC is therefore somewhat of a "luxury" area of Savannakhet. Since there wasn't much to do one evening, we decided—like good city dwellers—to go check it out. Initially, we were just looking for ice cream (like Swensen's)... which we ended up finding frozen in the supermarket.
Today, if you're looking for ice cream, there's the "La Glacerie Maison" shop, next to the parks mentioned in the article.
The place itself is quite surprising: nothing like the modern shopping malls of Thailand. It's more like a covered market, a mix between a mini Chatuchak and a thrift store, with stalls everywhere. That evening, we even stumbled upon a singing show, a kind of local "American Idol," which was drawing quite a crowd.
Being the only foreigner, I obviously stood out… At one point, while I was taking photos, I noticed a young man behind me discreetly trying to take my picture. So I offered him a proper souvenir photo; might as well do it properly!
The Dinosaur Museum
Yes, yes. Fossils were unearthed by a Frenchman in the 1930s, including a Tyrannosaurus tooth. To date, fossils from four different classes have been identified (ichthyosaurs, iguanos, theropods, and sauropods). These dinosaur skeletons date from the Triassic and Cretaceous periods.
They come from an extraction site (stopped in 2000) near the village of Ban Tang Vay, Xonbouly district. A little anecdote, in Laotian, a dinosaur is "soberly" called "giant lizard".
It is this presence of fossils in the region that explains the roundabout with the dinosaur figurines near the department store (See the map)
What is there to see in the vicinity of Savannakhet?
That Ing Hang
As we approached the temple, we came across a small group of children playing under a tree, with a few cows wandering freely nearby. This perfectly sums up the typical atmosphere of the Laotian countryside.
Le That Ing Hang is considered as one of the most sacred stupas in the Savannakhet region, and is among the National treasures of Laos. So we are still dealing with a fairly important site on a national scale.
The current stupa dates from 1548, built during the reign of King Marukhanakhone, even though the temple is said to be older. According to local tradition, it houses a relic of the Buddha, making it an important pilgrimage site for both Lao and Thai people on the other side of the Mekong.
As for the name “Ing Hang,” it is said to come from the Buddha's visit to the region: he is believed to have preached in the village before resting under a tree called “Hang.” Other versions circulate, sometimes contradictory—particularly because “hang” can also mean “to hang” in Lao—which makes the exact origin of the name somewhat unclear.
The complex as a whole is relatively simple, but the stupa is elegant, very well preserved, and sculpted with mythical figures in a style typical of central Laos. The visit is quick and the atmosphere very peaceful.
Please note: To enter That Ing Hang, it is recommended to wear modest clothing—shoulders and knees covered. Women may be asked to rent a born A traditional sarong (a type of sarong) is worn at the entrance. The site is generally open from 08:00 AM to 16:30 PM.
Paid entry (Indicative price): approximately 5,000 kip (the ticket office is on the other side of the road from the complex)
The villages and small roads around Savannakhet
The goal that day was to find some ruins hidden somewhere in the countryside around Savannakhet. Even though it wasn't the only visit planned, it was also a pretext to get out of the city for a bit, and that's how we ended up passing through several villages with a peaceful atmosphere, where we met laughing locals, not used to seeing tourists around.
The same thing happened when we arrived in the village of Phonsim, a typical Laotian village, calm and simple. The reason I went there was because the old ruins we were looking for were supposed to be the remains of old Phonsim.
Located about 2 km from the present-day village, it's supposedly possible to see the foundations of an ancient pagoda and what remains of the old town wall. In our case, despite our searches and all my good intentions, we couldn't find them. Even asking locals, whom we thought would know, didn't help.
It quickly became clear that not everyone knows about these ruins, and those who have explained that they are difficult to access. In short, unless you are accompanied by a local guide, it is clearly complicated—if not a complete waste of time.
The only clue we got was about a small hill surrounded by a bamboo forest. In our attempt to locate the place, we at least got a lovely walk in the heart of the Laotian countryside, far from everything.
The lakes around Savannakhet
The plain around Savannakhet has several bodies of water. During our route today, we passed by two of them.
Lake Bungva
Our first stop on our day of exploration was Lake Bungva, about 8 km from Savannakhet. Marked on the local "tourist" map provided by our guesthouse, this lake, located just past a village, is the largest in the region. During the dry season, the water level was very low. The area is popular with locals for the small restaurants on stilts clustered along part of the western shore.
With the surrounding rice paddies empty and the landscape very dry, the dry season is really best avoided if possible (in addition to the crushing heat), but in the warmer months, the landscapes are certainly more pleasant.
Phonsim Turtle Lake
There was a time when this lake was home to sacred turtles, which the locals would come to feed. Today, there are no more turtles (or so I think…), but buffalo come to cool off in the heat. I arrived at this lake by taking small roads—more like tracks, really.
Yes, because instead of simply following the main road which would have more or less taken me directly to the edge of the lake, I relied on my sense of direction to arrive on the other side of the lake, with the aim of forming a loop and returning by road afterwards.
To better visualize these short walks around Savannakhet, here is the map with the lakes, ruins and paths I took.
Practical advice
Coming to Savannakhet
Savannakhet is located on the axis that connects central Laos to Thailand and Vietnam. The city is therefore quite easy to reach, whether you are travelling from the north to the south of the country or making a loop through neighbouring countries.
For border crossings, always allow a little extra time: paperwork, visas, checks and possible vehicle changes can lengthen the day's journey.
From Pakse or Thakhek
From Pakse in the south or Thakhek further north, you'll find buses or minivans connecting to Savannakhet. Departures are from the main bus stations, with several departures per day during peak season.
The journey is fairly straightforward: simply follow Route 13, which forms the north-south axis of Laos. Allow a few hours for the drive, including stops and the usual unpredictable nature of local transport.
- Pakse → Savannakhet approximately 230 km, 4 to 5 h road, 40,000 to 80,000 kip depending on the type of vehicle.
- Thakhek → Savannakhet approximately 130 km, 2:30am to 3:30pm, around 40,000 to 80,000 kip.
Trips can be booked at the bus station, at agencies or directly through your accommodation.
From Thailand (Mukdahan)
From Thailand, Savannakhet is easily accessible from the city of Mukdahan. Buses pass through second Friendship Bridge which connects the two banks of the Mekong and drops you off on the Laotian side, near the border post. This is the option I mostly chose in my case.
After completing the formalities (opt for the e-visa if you're planning your entry point into Laos), you can reach the center of Savannakhet by tuk-tuk or songthaew (expect to pay around 100 baht per person). This is a convenient option if you're arriving from Isan, Thailand, or simply crossing the border into Laos.
- Mukdahan → Savannakhet : 20 to 30 minutes bus journey (allow an extra hour for formalities).
- International bus: around 50 to 70 THB.
From Vietnam
For those travelling between Vietnam and Laos, Savannakhet can serve as a stopover when coming from the Lao Bao border crossing. Buses or minivans connect the nearby Vietnamese towns to the border, and then continue on to Savannakhet on the Lao side.
- Lao Bao → Savannakhet : 4 to 5 h according to the correspondences.
- Prices: in general 40,000 to 80,000 kip depending on the season and the operators.
As the schedules vary, it is best to check directly with the guesthouses or local agencies.
other options
In all cases, access to Savannakhet is mainly by bus or minivan, sometimes bookable through guesthouses or small local agencies.
Savannakhet has a civil airport (code ZVK), served in 2025 by Lao Airlines via Vientiane — but flights are infrequent and connections with the capital remain mostly domestic.
To book your transport to/from Savannakhet, I've included the search tool if you prefer to plan ahead.
Getting around the city and surrounding areas
Savannakhet's city center is small and quite pleasant to walk around. To explore That Ing HangHowever, to reach the villages or lakes around the city, you will need a vehicle or a tuk-tuk.
Most points of interest around Savannakhet are close together: expect to pay between 10 and 20 minutes of road to the most visited sites. This is what makes exploring by scooter or tuk-tuk particularly convenient.
Note that as the city borders Thailand, the baht is widely accepted for paying for transportation (and other services). Change will be given in kip.
Generally speaking, expect to pay one for tuk-tuks “tourist price” systematically +20 to +40%.
Walking in the center
The heart of Savannakhet is limited to a few streets around the Mekong: riverside, old colonial houses, church, small markets… Distances are short and everything is easily done on foot.
By tuk-tuk
Tuk-tuks are found almost everywhere, especially near markets, the city center, and the bus station. Fares depend on the distance and whether you negotiate the price.
- city journeys : in general 40,000 to 80,000 kip;
- outskirts (e.g., That Ing Hang): probably around the 200,000 kip round trip.
Rent a scooter
To explore the surrounding area (That Ing Hang, lakes, small villages), renting a scooter is the easiest solution. Rentals are usually available through guesthouses or a few agencies in the town center.
Personally, I found one at the café restaurant "Au Rendez-Vous" but I couldn't say if they still rent... It was a Chinese copy of the Honda Wave, I had no complaints but it's semi-manual, so you need to know how to shift gears with your foot.
- Price : about 150,000 kip - 200,000 kip the day for a (semi-manual) motorcycle.
- Distances That Ing Hang is about 12 km from the centre, Lake Bungva is 8 km away, and Phonsim is slightly further.
road conditions
The main roads around Savannakhet are generally in good condition, but some secondary sections can be rough or dusty, especially during the dry season. Nothing unmanageable, but you should drive slowly and be careful in sandy areas.
Where to stay in Savannakhet
Even though it's a "big" city (by Laotian standards, I mean), Savannakhet's hotel options are quite limited. You'll mostly find simple hotels and a few guesthouses, nothing truly luxurious, although over the years, there have been some more modern options than on my first visits.
Which neighborhood should I choose?
Since I was mainly going there to renew my visa, I stayed in a hotel located near both the bus station and the Thai embassy, slightly outside the city center. Otherwise, the most logical options are as follows:
- The banks of the Mekong : ideal if you want to be close to the night market, walks along the river and the few restaurants in the centre.
- The colonial city center : convenient for walking, close to the church, old houses and small street markets.
Some addresses
Below are some reliable options depending on your budget:
- Mekong Riverbank : Pilgrims Kitchen & Inn remains a benchmark in terms of accommodation in Savannakhet, in addition to having a good, reputable restaurant.
- Old Town : Monkey Guesthouse is the most interesting choice, it's clean, modern, with the added bonus of a small rooftop.
- Ailleurs : a slightly out-of-the-way option but excellent value for money, with a 45 m² loft including a kitchen and mezzanine bedroom – the Kenton House.
Alternatively, near the bus station, which were my usual choices:
Where to eat
Savannakhet isn't known for its culinary scene, but you can still find a few retro cafes and simple restaurants where you can eat well. Most are located between the colonial center and the banks of the Mekong, within a very walkable radius.
→ Retro cafes and small local restaurants The city has several cafes housed in old colonial buildings, offering a tranquil atmosphere. People come here for a Lao coffee, a smoothie, or simply to take a break in the cool shade.
For reference, you have the Lin's Café, Or Hukfilm × Grandpa Coffee. An old address that still exists is next to the old cinema, the Sooksavan Cafe & Bistro. In modern times, you have the Simple Café.
As for meals, local restaurants offer classic dishes: fried rice, noodles, soups and grilled meats, a good place to try being the Dolly's Cafewho does a little bit of everything or the Bistro NoopaBut you can also find modern establishments like the Miss You Bistro.
→ Street food at the night market The night market (Savan Mixay) is the liveliest place to eat in the evening. It mainly offers street food: kebabs, stir-fried noodles, crepes, desserts, and smoothies. It's cheap, unpretentious, and perfect for a quick dinner.
→ To have a drink It's still a city, so if you want to relax with a drink and some music, besides the night market, you have... The Raven bar. If you stay near the bus station, you'll have a local bar/restaurant, the Home Beer.
2 Comments
I think the place you chose is indeed more suitable for tourists looking for simplicity and authenticity. In any case, it is a city to include in my next trips to Thailand. Thanks for your wise advice!
Let's say that the other choice would have been Paksé but that will be for next time! Overall, yes, Laos is an ideal place to escape mass tourism (even if in Thailand it is largely feasible too!), thanks for your message!