Wat Phra That Lampang Luang: the unmissable temple near Lampang

The main buildings making up the temple

Already upon arriving at the main car park, you will be immersed in the typical atmosphere of an important temple like this one, where a whole economy is formed around it. Several street vendors set up shop in the parking space, around a tree, the only source of shade. The others spread out in shops around the large car park, leaving enough to buy souvenirs and find something to eat, a small coffee and other small pleasures so characteristic of Thailand. You will even have several ATMs if you ever run out of cash.

Before even heading to the main entrance, if you are curious, you can take a look at the secondary building which is located just opposite the parking lot, where several carriages are parked lined up along the wall. You will have there a typical example of a northern temple facade, loaded with decoration and color (gilding on a red background).

If you turn back to the side, you will see a staircase on the left, which leads to the back part of the temple, where the museums are located (I will talk about them later). Here you have the statue of the local hero, mentioned above, as well as a sarong rental service. As with many temples in Thailand, it is necessary to cover your legs and shoulders (for ladies) before entering the complex. If you don't have anything to do, you can rent a sarong here for only 20 baht.

Across from the complex is a pond, the history of which I don't really know, but I think is original, and not far to the left you see a roof protecting what was either the old local market. We are then in front of the steps leading up to the large elaborate entrance gate that gives access to the complex. The staircase is "classically" lined with Nagas, who are guarded by two lion statues on either side.

Viharn Luang

Once at the top, you find yourself facing this imposing teak wood viharn, built in 1476, making it one of the oldest in Thailand.

It has the particularity of being open on all sides. Except for the wooden panels under the roof, which can be called "walls" and which therefore contain magnificent murals representing the stories of the Buddha's past lives, but also some historical references. If you look closely, you will see figures wearing costumes of foreign powers. The reason being that these paintings are more recent and date from the 19th century, when Thailand already had several diplomatic relations with Europe and the US.

Beneath the imposing three-tiered roof of the Viharn Luang, everything adheres to the Lanna style, beginning with the pillars, decorated with lai kham , gilded motifs on black lacquer. In the central space, there is an open area with prayer rugs on the floor, in front of a gilded structure with elaborate reliefs. This is what is called a Ku , a kind of niche where important Buddha images are enshrined. Here, it is Phra Chao Lan Thong.

This structure was not built at the same time as the viharn, but in 1563. It mixes the art styles of Chiang Saen and Sukhothai, which reveals the connection between the Lampang and Sukhothai kingdoms in the past.

The great chedi

Located behind the viharn is the imposing chedi, covered in bronze and copper sheets. These have withstood the test of time, changing color to their current black hue. This chedi is likely the oldest structure in the temple complex , although its exact construction date is unknown. However, it is established that a structure existed on this site before the addition of the current buildings. The date of its enlargement and reconstruction is also known: 1449. It was enlarged again at the end of the 15th century, reaching its present height of approximately 45 meters.

This stupa, according to legend, houses a hair of the Buddha. This particularly important relic makes Wat Phra That Lampang Luang one of the most revered temples in the kingdom . Many devotees come here every day to circle it three times while praying (but rest assured, it's not overcrowded every day).

If you also go around, you will see a sign with an indication in English of what is supposed to be a bullet mark, evoking the "warlike" past of the place at the time of the Burmese invasion in the 17th century.

A special feature of the temple is the possibility of making a donation to bless the chedi. You must then hang your ticket on a thread, itself connected to the chedi. Then you can raise a small basket under which there will be a bucket filled with holy water, which, once hoisted to the top of the chedi, will pour the holy water in question by pulley system.

Otherwise, as is commonly found in temples in Thailand, you can write your wishes on a piece of fabric, or simply your first and last names, date, etc. This long orange-colored ribbon will then later be wrapped around the chedi.

Viharn Phra Put

Next to the chedi is the Viharn Phra Put, a smaller wooden viharn on a stone base with a two-tiered roof. This viharn was built more recently in 1802 , replacing a much older structure. It is still supported by its original teakwood pillars. Its beautifully carved wooden facade is inlaid with colorful glass mosaics.

On each side, you'll see two small ox statues, as this temple was built in the Year of the Ox. It is therefore considered more auspicious for those born under this sign and is considered THE Ox Temple in Thailand . Elsewhere in the country, you'll find important chedis and temples corresponding to each of the 12 signs of the Chinese zodiac.

Inside, you'll be greeted by the main Buddha image, in its classic seated pose of "calling the earth to witness." This 5-meter-high statue, placed on a tall pedestal opposite the viharn entrance, is located to the right. There are several very realistic wax figures of monks. And in the corner, you'll see something quite unusual : a small opening allows light to filter through, and the chedi is reflected onto a white surface, much like a photograph on a negative (especially in full sunlight; it's less effective on overcast days).

Ubosot and Ho Phra Phutthabat

As you walk around the courtyard, and therefore the chedi, you will encounter a number of other chapels. The first is the most visible, as it sits on a stone base and is accessible by a few steps. The Ho Phra Phutthabat Chapel houses a small sculpture depicting the footprint of Buddha . It is also believed to be the oldest structure in the temple complex, dating back to the 13th century.

If you read the small signs, you'll notice that women are not allowed inside the chapel … After that, you don't miss much, except that a gap above the old wooden door lets in light. This creates a phenomenon similar to that at Viharn Phra Put . A white sheet covers the entire crossbar of the small interior and projects a beautiful inverted image of the chedi.

Next to Viharn Phra Put, to the left of Ho Phra Phutthabat, is a small ubosot, also called an ordination hall. Also built towards the end of the 1924th century, the structure was completely renovated in XNUMX. It has a two-tiered roof and a beautifully gilded front façade.

Viharn Phra Sao Sila, Viharn Nam Tam and Viharn Ton Kaeo

Continuing your tour of the chedi, you will first pass the Phra Sao Sila viharn , with its three-tiered roof. This viharn is also "open" on the sides, showcasing an architectural style that foreshadows what would later characterize the Lanna style. It was probably built in the 14th or 15th century. The front façade features a Thewada figure (a type of celestial being) and is finely decorated with a predominance of gold and blue.

At the back, there is a group of Buddha statues, some of which must be valuable since they are behind a closed gate.

The museum and secondary buildings of the complex

Outside the main temple compound, to the left of the Viharn Phra Put, you can visit a whole other part of the temple. You will first come across a beautiful Bodhi tree, the sacred tree of Buddhism, right next to the fortification. You will not be able to miss it, because you will see a series of sticks placed at the foot of the latter and supporting its old branches.

This is also where the monks' dwellings and the buildings for the temple administration are located. You also have three small museums, one of which requires a small snack.

There are Buddhist ceremonial objects, coins and banknotes from different periods, different Buddha statues, art objects, but also ceramics and various manuscripts.