Lost in the mountains of Phetchabun at an altitude of 800 m, Wat Phra That Pha Sorn Kaew is one of those temples that surprises you upon arrival, with its five white Buddhas and its large chedi decorated with mosaics.
The site is recent, created as a meditation center, but it's not just another temple like so many others in Thailand: its truly unique aesthetic and location, perched amidst the mountain ridges, give it a distinct atmosphere. The view and surroundings alone are worth the visit, and it's clearly a place unlike anything else you'll typically see in Thailand.
1. Brief history and origin
As I just mentioned, Wat Pha Sorn Kaew is a recent templeThe construction of which began in 2004 is a classic example of the birth of a religious site in Thailand. It was initiated by a private couple who acquired 25 rai (equivalent to 4 hectares) on the ridge of this mountain, an area which was quickly quadrupled when other faithful joined their donations.
Driven by great devotion, the aim was to create a center for meditation and spiritual retreat for Buddhist monks and laypeople. Following the stay of two monks who came to practice the Dhamma here, when the site only included two thatched huts to accommodate them, relatives and friends came to help them financially to build a Buddhist temple, starting with the chedi.
As is often the case in Thailand, the site began its activities modestly, without the formal status of a temple. It only became an official “Wat” after its recognition by the National Office of Buddhism (NOB) in 2013, adopting its full name of Wat Phra That Pha Kaew.
This “Wat” status is important because it means the temple can organize official monastic ordinations and has a ubosot (ordination hall) consecrated. Finally, it is now recognized not only by the Buddhist administration, but also by the King, following the reception of his royal charter of ordination in 2016.
It is a very prestigious status Not all temples possess these qualities, which, along with its privileged setting, quickly made it a popular destination for Thai tourists. In fact, one generally encounters few foreign tourists there, as the temple is relatively far from Thailand's main tourist attractions.
Today, the temple complex includes dozens of “kuti” (monks' houses), a multi-purpose hall, a four-story meditation hall, and a nine-story chedi. It has several parking lots and even a 7-Eleven in the back.
It continues to grow thanks to the influx of numerous donations and is constantly evolving. Just between two of my visits, I saw a new chedi appear right behind the "original," and the ongoing construction visible on either side of the temple testifies to its future development.
2. Site Architecture and Composition
In practical terms, Wat Pha Sorn Kaew is a temple divided into two distinct areas, simply separated by the road, which continues slightly higher up the mountainside.
On one side, there is the large nine-story chedi, decorated with mosaics; on the other, the famous five aligned Buddha statues, which offer a view of Khao Kho from their large open terrace.
2.1 The Five Buddhas in Alignment
I deliberately start with this part of the temple, because every time I come here, it's towards the five Buddhas that I'll head to first. God knows I've seen a lot of temples and statues in Thailand, but a complex like this isn't something you come across every day. And with this backdrop, it's hard not to be drawn to this perspective first, especially since the view is one of the most beautiful from this side of the complex.
Completed in 2014 and officially called Prasat SatchaparamiThis structure is easily spotted from afar as you wind your way through the mountains. And as soon as you come into view of the site, you understand why: the five white figures, perfectly interlocked, literally steal the show from the rest of the complex. Yes, a Buddha in a Thai temple, nothing could be more normal… but five, of increasing size, aligned in this way? Now, We are clearly dealing with something unique.
And as is often the case, Everything has a meaningAnd here, this row arrangement symbolically represents the five major stages of the path to Enlightenment, from the birth of the Buddha to the teaching of the Dhamma. This is not a common tradition in Thai statuary, which explains the spectacular and unique nature of this composition.
To elaborate a little, the five statues symbolize:
- The Buddha at birth
- The Buddha in his youth / Prince Siddhartha
- The Buddha in Asceticism
- The Buddha at the time of his enlightenment
- The Buddha teaching/transmitting the Dhamma
This also explains why the headdress (often symbolized by a point in the shape of a “flame”) is only present on the largest statue, the one for which the Buddha had already attained enlightenment.
To push the symbolism to its logical conclusion, I would like to emphasize the importance of the number five in Theravada Buddhism:
→ it also corresponds to the five precepts (do not kill, do not steal, do not commit sexual misconduct, do not lie and do not consume intoxicating substances)
→ It can also be associated with the five aggregates (or skandhas), which are the psychophysical components constituting the individual according to Buddhism: form (physical body), sensation (feelings), perception (recognition of objects), mental formations (habits) and consciousness (reflecting perception and mental activity).
The base supporting the five Buddhas houses two rooms spread over two floors, which are open to visitors. The first, at the level of the main terrace, is a large, rather empty room, with a prayer area covered by carpets.
Upstairs, a room paneled in wood, including the superb gleaming parquet floor, with a richly decorated ceiling. Thais come here to pray before a large reclining Buddha, also white like the exterior (a symbol of purity, which is also the white of the Thai flag).
There are also beautiful sculptures with finely executed details, as well as display cases exhibiting religious objects and several Buddha statues of various sizes and appearances. A stall allows visitors to make donations, either directly or through the purchase of souvenirs.
Higher up, a smaller room houses other statues, in a setting this time covered with small mirrors and ornaments that give the whole thing a silvery and shiny appearance.
From the terrace surrounding the statue, there is this breathtaking view of the mountains north of Phetchabun, which, depending on the season, can be covered with a morning mist, adding a mystical touch to this exceptional place.
Among the other structures on this side of the temple, there is a small adjoining room housing a stone statue (judging by its green color, I would say it is made of jade, a reference to the Emerald Buddha of Bangkok) and probably used for meditation sessions.
It is surrounded by a terraced tropical garden, adorned with pine trees — common at this altitude in Thailand — and pools, some of which were filled with lotus flowers.
2.2 The large mosaic stupa
Like a lighthouse in the middle of the mountains, it is the central building of the temple because it was the first structure to be built there. It was this building that gave impetus to the project and established the visual identity of the site.
Its architecture certainly contrasts with classic Thai bell-shaped chedis. Yet, it initially appealed to me less: in its broad outlines, it remains a chedi like any other. It particularly reminds me of the Wat Thaton, in Chiang Mai province, or — to a lesser extent — the two royal chedis of Doi inthanon — also in Chiang Mai.
A less "striking" style than the five Buddhas, even if the whole remains very beautiful. It is really upon closer inspection that one realizes how distinctive this stupa is: very large surfaces are covered with mosaics of glass, mirrors and colored ceramics, creating a very unique effect, somewhere between Thai aesthetics and contemporary touches reminiscent of Gaudí's modernism in Barcelona.
The main pagoda has nine stories, with a gilded upper section reminiscent of the petals of a closed lotus bud. Once you observe the details and richness of its decoration, even this seemingly "ordinary" chedi suddenly becomes quite interesting.
Among the materials used, we find Benjarong porcelain, literally "five colors" (although some pieces may have more), a renowned Thai ceramic.
Remember, we're in Thailand, so before entering the porch leading to the circular courtyard, you must remove your shoes on the right (next to the restrooms). Depending on the season, the paving stones can get very hot under the Thai sun, so even though it might seem counterintuitive in a hot country, wearing socks can definitely help.
The esplanade surrounding the pagoda is just as remarkable as the building itself. The same is true of the monumental staircase leading to the upper level platform of the chedi, which is colorful and visually stunning.
Each exterior level offers different viewpoints of the surrounding mountains, with the hotels that have gradually sprung up in the distance. Above all, one can admire up close the decorative compositions that extend onto the columns, balustrades, and arches surrounding the building.
Inside, the overall effect is less impressive than the exterior, but it's still full of surprises. It's a reflection of the temple itself: extremely visually rich. Each floor has its own distinct atmosphere, but the same aesthetic is present throughout: shimmering mosaics, vibrant colors, detailed frescoes, and plays of light that create the impression of being in an almost dreamlike setting rather than a typical Thai temple.
We enter a vast circular room decorated with frescoes depicting scenes from the life of the Buddha, with walls and floors covered in colorful patterns, and a ceiling painted like a cosmic sky. In another space, an unexpected installation features a tree with white leaves resting on a mound covered with pearls and glittering objects, representations of the Buddha surrounded by celestial beings, and stained-glass windows that reflect light in all directions.
Higher up, the decor changes again: one floor is dedicated to prayer and offerings, with numerous gilded statues and worshippers making their donations. To move between the levels, one can use a staircase housed in a large central column entirely covered in silver mosaics, from the center of which a huge chandelier descends over several floors.
The whole thing remains difficult to compare: a mix of religious art, local craftsmanship, deliberate kitsch, and omnipresent Buddhist symbolism.
In the latest developments, a second chedi has been built just behind the main one. More understated in its decor, it nevertheless stands out immediately: its style is clearly Burmese. I don't know the exact reason, but it's hard not to see it as a smaller version of the Shwedagon of Yangon.
This is all the more unexpected given that Phetchabun is a province located more on the Laotian side than the Burmese side. But this addition reinforces the impression of a temple in perpetual expansion, where architectural influences accumulate according to donations and projects. And things can change quickly, as only a little over a year passed between my two visits.
3. Practical information
Things to know before the visit
- 🕒 Schedule The temple complex is open every day from 8:00 am to 17:00 pm on weekdays. On weekends, the hours are extended and it is open from 6:00 am to 18:00 pm.
- Price Free. Donations welcome.
- Dress code : shoulders and legs must be covered.
- Parking There are several parking lots around the temple; the main one is directly on the left as you arrive. It gets very crowded on weekends. Cost: 30 baht.
- Visit time Allow a good hour to tour both areas and visit the different floors and terraces.
4. When to come: light, season, crowds
Better light
The temple faces due east and due west depending on the area, which means that:
- In the morning (8am–10am), the five Buddhas are perfectly lit, without harsh shadows.
- In the late afternoon, the pagoda benefits from the most beautiful light.
During the central hours (11am–15pm), the light is stronger, the mosaics shine “flat” and the floor can get extremely hot.
Best season
The usual simple answer would be "dry season," but the reality is more nuanced than that; as I always say, each season has its advantages and disadvantages:
Dry season (Nov. → Feb.)
It's good, but not perfect either:
- Blue skies almost guaranteed.
- Clear visibility,
- Higher attendance, especially on weekends.
Distant views of the Khao Kho mountains are most possible between November and December.
A damper : besides the larger crowds, from mid-January onwards, the heat and burning can make the atmosphere hazy and the vegetation dull.
Wet season (May → Oct.)
It's a completely different atmosphere:
- frequent morning mist,
- clouds clinging to the mountains,
- A more mystical atmosphere.
The white Buddhas stand out particularly well under these conditions.
Only problem : landscape sometimes "obscured" by clouds, short but sometimes intense showers (more generally in the late afternoon). September and October are, like much of the country, the months to avoid.
And as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words, here is a comparison between two seasons, which perfectly illustrates the change in colorimetry and overall rendering.
February
July
February
JulyCrowded
- Week: fairly calm, traffic flowing smoothly.
- Weekends and Thai public holidays: very busy, especially the Five Buddhas area (9:30–11am).
- Thai summer holidays (March–April): a combination of crowds and intense heat.
Generally, for a quieter temple: arrive before 8:30 am or after 16 pm.
5. What you can see around
The panoramic cafes and roads of Khao Kho
Where there are mountains, there are views. In a tourist area like Khao Kho, you will find many cafes and restaurants offering terraces with an unobstructed view of the mountains or even of the temple if you stay in the immediate vicinity.
In this concept, I had tested the Liangshan Coffee KhaokhoPerched on a hill about ten kilometers from the temple. A cafe-restaurant with panoramic terraces (yes, with an s), with a theme clearly inspired by China, with arches, lanterns and a somewhat “Instagrammable viewpoint” aesthetic.
Access is via an entrance ticket (approximately 100 baht), which includes a drink. The area is designed to maximize the view: several platforms on the hillside, designated photo spots, and a sweeping panorama of the surrounding mountains. It's very popular with Thais, who come as much for the drinks as for the photo opportunities.
Another example: the Ratchamangkla Keelapisek Wayside Park View Point, a small viewpoint built along the main road leading to Wat Pha Sorn Kaew. Besides the view of the mountains, there are a few shops like those often found along the roadside in Thailand, selling local specialties such as biscuits, snacks and fruit.
Going back up, you will also find a small cafe with a beautiful view of the temple (accessible from the downhill side, since we drive on the left, as a reminder).
Phu Thap Book
About an hour's drive away, it's the other major site of Phetchabun : the highest mountain in the region (1,768 m) and one of the most popular viewpoints in the country.
Primarily, it's an agricultural area cultivated for its cabbages and other vegetables that require a more temperate climate to grow. And because its slope is particularly open to the valley, offering superb views of the surrounding hills on a clear day, Phu Thap Boek has become a resort destination for Thais, especially in winter, when the famous “sea of clouds” frequently appears.
Thung Salaeng Luang National Park
About fifty kilometers from Phetchabun, and almost as many from the temple, the Thung Salaeng Luang National Park offers a very different setting: large grassy plains like a savannah, pine forests, a few waterfalls and open panoramas of the hills.
It's a fairly large park, particularly appreciated for its misty sunrises, wildlife viewing, and easy hiking trails. A great nature option if you're spending several days in the area and want to alternate between temples and wild landscapes.
Si Thep Historical Park (UNESCO)
Much further away (about a 2.5-hour drive), but still in the province of Phetchabun, the Si Thep Historical Park This is the last Thai site to be inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List. The complex is quite compact and can easily be visited in about an hour. It's a worthwhile stop if you plan to head back towards Phetchabun or continue south towards Bangkok.
6. How to get to Phetchabun
You will find regular connections from the main surrounding towns, including Phitsanulok (near Sukhothai), which also has an airport if you want to save time. Depending on your origin, you can stop over beforehand in Loei, Khon Kaen, Nakhon Sawan, or even Lopburi.
From Bangkok
The most convenient option is to take a bus from Mo Chit towards Lom Sak. The journey takes approximately 8 to 10 hours, depending on the bus company and departure time.
Upon arrival, there are indeed songthaews operating in the Khao Kho area, but their exact routes and schedules vary. Since there is no direct transport to Wat Pha Sorn Kaew, the easiest option is to use a private vehicle (rental or taxi for the day from Phetchabun).
A private taxi from Bangkok usually takes 5 to 6 hours to reach Phetchabun.
From Khao Kho
If you're already staying near Khao Kho, the journey is quick: 30 to 40 minutes along a scenic road with several viewpoints along the way. This is the most natural route: accommodations → temple → continue to Phu Thap Boek.
By car (or motorcycle/scooter)
This is the easiest option for being self-sufficient. The road is good and well-signposted, and the final climb presents no particular difficulty in dry weather. However, the region can be very foggy in the morning or during the cooler seasons: visibility can drop sharply on the ridges, and the roads can be slippery in wet conditions.
7. Where to stay nearby
Most visitors come to Wat Pha Sorn Kaew as a day trip from Khao Kho or while traveling along the road between Phitsanulok and Phetchabun. However, if you wish to stay in the area, be aware that accommodations are mostly scattered along the coast. the Khao Kho hills, between the national park and the temple, more so than in the valley.
The two nearest small towns are Khek Noi (16 km past the temple, on the mountain side) and Lomsak (about thirty kilometers down the valley), but that's not necessarily where you'll find the best accommodations: the majority of resorts and guesthouses are spread out a bit at altitude, often with beautiful mountain views.
You can look at hotels like Pino Latte Khaokho ou The Imperial Phukaew Hill Resort, two classic options in the region.
Overall, Khao Kho has many guesthouses and small resorts, but depending on the season, it can be useful to book in advance, as Thais flock there on weekends, especially in winter. Many accommodations are also geared towards local clientele, with quite a few "luxury tent" concepts, such as at Sunset Resort Khaokho or the family Stratus Resort.
Finally, Phetchabun, the province's main city, can obviously serve as a base. It's about 60 km from the temple (allow 1 hour). I stayed at the same hotel each time, which I appreciate for its rooftop terrace and overall feeling of "luxury," while still costing less than €30.
8. Conclusion: A temple in full expansion
Before concluding, it's impossible not to mention what immediately catches the eye when walking around the grounds: the calls for donations to finance new constructions. On one side, a huge planned parking lot, topped by a giant reclining Buddha; on the other, the foundations of an even more "pharaonic" building.
This brings us back to a typically Thai tendency: some temples, buoyed by a massive influx of donations, feel compelled to continue building again and again, even if it means gradually disfiguring their surroundings.
It's paradoxical: a place meant to embody Buddhist simplicity can become a a real money-making machineBut conversely, we cannot ignore the real economy that is developing around it.
A successful temple also means jobs: craftsmen, workers, gardeners, maintenance staff… plus all the local tourism, from hotels to restaurants, which sustains a large part of the sector.
Therefore, we need to put the sometimes “Disneyland” aspect into perspective and keep the essentials in mind: the architecture of Wat Pha Sorn KaewIts unique aesthetics and spectacular location make it one of the most impressive modern temples in the country.
