Wiang Kum Kam: an ancient city at the gates of Chiang Mai

Wiang Kum Kam is an ancient fortified city from the 13th century, founded by King Mangrai , located 4 km south of the historic center of Chiang Mai. It briefly served as an intermediate capital before the founding of Chiang Mai — the “New City”.

The site is located near the Ping River , an important trade route at the time but also the cause of its decline: repeated floods eventually buried the city under mud. Rediscovered in the 1980s, Wiang Kum Kam has become an archaeological site encompassing a dozen or so ruins to explore, as well as two still-active temples that are well worth a visit.

The story of Wiang Kum Kam

After the capture of Hariphunchai (present-day Lamphun), a Mon city-state renowned for its wealth, King Mangrai left his capital Chiang Rai to move closer to the center of his new kingdom, which extended southward.

He remained briefly in the conquered city, but for political and identity reasons, Mangrai wanted a capital "of his own," a political and cultural center of a new Tai kingdom (which would become the kingdom of Lanna), rather than the old Mon capital.

He then established a capital at Wiang Kum Kam , which the chronicles date between 1281 and 1292. The city did not spring from nothing: a community already existed and the location, bordered by the Ping River to the north (as opposed to a crossing to the west today), favored river trade.

But its location proved too low and exposed to flooding . Mangrai then moved to a higher and more suitable site, at the foot of Doi Suthep, and founded Chiang Mai in 1296.

Contrary to popular belief, Wiang Kum Kam was not abandoned all at once. For nearly two and a half centuries , the two cities coexisted, first under Lanna independence and then under Burmese control. The city, however, rapidly lost its influence and became depopulated. While its decline is often attributed to the recurring flooding of the Ping River, the conquest of Lanna by the Burmese king Bayinnaung in 1558 may also have driven some of the population to flee the hostilities.

Nevertheless, between the middle and the end of the 16th century , ^the bed of the Ping River changed its course considerably ; Wiang Kum Kam became even more subject to floods and ended up buried under layers of alluvium and mud.

The buried city gradually fell into oblivion, until a village was re-established on top of it two centuries later . It wasn't until the 1980s that Wiang Kum Kam reappeared — despite a few ancient chedis already visible above ground.

According to accounts, expansion work at a school unearthed ancient tablets and pottery. In 1984 , the Fine Arts Department confirmed the discovery of significant remains around the present-day Wat Kan Thom and launched more extensive excavations.

The excavations , complicated by the numerous plots of land that have become privately owned , have nevertheless unearthed the ruins of more than twenty temples , testifying to the scale of the ancient Lanna city, covering approximately 850 x 600 m . Among them, some sites have been renovated, highlighting the ruins, while scattered remains are still left in their original state.

The two temples still active

I am talking here about temples that are still in use and are of historical interest. There are, of course, other temples in the surrounding area, but, being more recent constructions, they are not of particular interest.

Wat Chedi Liam (Ku Kham Luang)

Wat Chedi Liam is the most important temple within the historical area of ​​Wiang Kum Kam. Its foundation is estimated to date back to 1286–1288 , a time when Buddhism was spreading throughout Southeast Asia, replacing the then-dominant Hinduism . Wishing to achieve great merit, King Mangrai commissioned the construction of this temple in his new capital.

The temple is recognizable by its pyramidal chedi with a square base , adorned with niches each housing statues of Buddha distributed over five levels.

Yet another example of how temple names are not always carefully chosen: "Wat Chedi Liam" simply means "temple of the square chedi". Its nickname, Ku Kham Luang , comes from the old name Wat Ku Kham ( วัดกู่คำ ), "temple with the golden stupa", which King Mangrai is said to have given it after its construction.

This name implies that the chedi was once covered in gold or, failing that, gilding—today, only the small summit point is gilded. Some sources also mention a hollow laterite chedi intended to hold the ashes of the king's mother.

Overall, the building incorporates typical features of Hariphunchai and Mon architecture, drawing inspiration from the chedi of Wat Chamadevi (Wat Kukut) in Lamphun, 30 km further south. Its current appearance dates from 1908 , when a wealthy Burmese teak merchant financed extensive renovations; it thus incorporates features characteristic of the Burmese style . Visible examples include the Buddhas in the niches, painted in golden yellow (rather than left in white stucco), and the profile of the small chedis at the four corners of each terrace.

The remaining buildings consist of the viharn (prayer hall) and the ubosot (ordination hall). The viharn has a red lacquered wooden facade covered with gilded carvings typical of the Lanna style; inside, there are tall red lacquered teak columns and frescoes depicting Buddhist scenes. The ubosot is distinguished by its intricately carved three-sided roof with gables featuring protective nagas.

Note: a popular weekly market is held around the temple on Friday afternoons . Also, since it's one of the available modes of transport for visiting Wiang Kum Kam, you might see a horse-drawn carriage parked in its courtyard, adding an old-world charm to the place (although I don't endorse this mode of transport).

Wat Chang Kham (Wat Kan Thom Kumkam Phirom)

It is best known today as Wat Chang Kham ( วัดช้างค้ำ ), "the temple with supporting elephants" (and no, it's not the same kham as above), in reference to its square-based white chedi , around which are "carrying" elephants.

But its former name, Wat Kan Thom , remains largely associated with the still-active temple of Wiang Kum Kam, whose name is mentioned on a sign marking the temple entrance. Anecdotally, King Mangrai is said to have named it in honor of his favorite carpenter (Wihan Kan Thom). Historical records place its foundation shortly after Wat Chedi Liam, around 1288–1290.

Local tradition tells of the arrival of five Sri Lankan monks at the end of the 13th ^century , who left Sukhothai to practice asceticism under a large banyan tree (the bodhi tree). This episode is said to have motivated the founding of the monastery by Mangrai, who came to hear the sermon of the group's leader. He is also said to have commissioned five bronze Buddha statues , of which only one remains on site, seated at the back of the viharn.

As mentioned above, it was from this area that the excavations began which unearthed the ancient city—its temples and moat—making Wiang Kum Kam the site that visitors see today. The temple combines a living sanctuary (the current buildings are relatively recent) and open-air ruins.

— Ruins : one can be seen within the temple grounds themselves, probably the original viharn ( ^13th century), of which the brick base remains; a second, barely larger, is located at the entrance to Wat Chang Kham and is listed under the name of Wat That Noi.

— Contemporary elements : besides the elephant chedi, with its niches oriented to the four cardinal points housing images of the Buddha, there is a large viharn placed in front of it . It is distinguished by a wide, elegant façade supported by six pillars, this time without gilding, but with red stucco decorations featuring floral motifs. One of the compositions catches the eye: above the door, Erawan , the three-headed elephant, mount of the Hindu god Indra.

I didn't visit the interior, but an interesting feature: the recent murals tell the story of the temple up to the present day. They depict the site's ancient appearance, its renovation, and even the arrival of visitors—"farangs" (foreigners) with cameras in hand.

Next to it stands a beautiful sacred library ( Ho Tham , the Lanna equivalent of the Ho Trai ) housing sermons, ritual texts, and local chronicles. It is recognizable by its raised structure , designed to protect the manuscripts from humidity, termites, and floods: a highly ornate white stucco base and, above it, a finely carved wooden pavilion , typical of Lanna architecture.

On the other side, near the ruins, you can see the pagoda fig tree (bodhi tree), said to be the one under which monks came to preach in the 13th ^century . You can't miss it, as it is symbolically supported by countless wooden poles. Finally, a last all-wooden building is visible next to the complex, resembling a large "spirit house," which, according to legend, houses the spirit of King Mangrai.

The ruins visited

I've listed the two active temples separately to distinguish them from other sites in the form of ruins of varying magnitude. For the sake of clarity, here's a list of my visits in the actual order of the day.

Overall, I saw the main sights, keeping in mind that many of the smaller ruins aren't worth the detour (often, only a brick base remains, not to mention those still lost in unexcavated ground). One of the slightly larger sites I didn't visit was Wat Ku Pa Dom.

Also worth noting is Wat Ku Khao , reduced to half of a large, square-based chedi, its main attraction being its location right next to Route 106 (Chiang Mai–Lamphun). Known as the "royal road," it is very photogenic, lined with centuries-old trees.

1. Wat That Kaow — small site with a seated Buddha statue.
2. Wat Pupia — two-level structure with stupa.
3. Wat E-Khang — ruins of a large temple with its preserved stupa.
4. Wat Nan Chang — enclosure of a vast buried monastery under the city.
5. Wat Chang Kham (Wat Kan Thom) — active monastery alongside ruins.
6. Wat Huanong — the largest site in Wiang Kum Kam, consisting of three temple complexes.
7. Wat Chedi Liam (Ku Kham Luang) — active temple with chedi in the Hariphunchai style.
8. Wat Phaya Mangrai & Wat Phra Chao Ong Dam — two small ruins in the middle of the vegetation.

Wat That Kaow

Also spelled "Wat That Khao," which translates to "temple of the white chedi," Wat That Kaow was the first temple I encountered on my way to Wiang Kum Kam. It owes its name to its brick chedi, now collapsed, which was once covered with a layer of lime giving it a white hue. The temple is later in the Wiang Kum Kam chronology, dating back to the 16th century.

It was excavated and restored in 1985–1986 . Besides the chedi, a viharn remains, of which only the brick base, entrance terrace, and two rows of pillars survive. Next to the chedi, the remains of a pavilion now house a large, recently constructed image of the Buddha in a meditative posture, which serves as a reminder of the earlier brick image unearthed during the excavations.

Wat Pupia

Located not far from the previous one and excavated/restored in the same year, Wat Pupia has a plan similar to that of Wat That Kaow: a viharn , behind which stands a chedi , accompanied by a small pavilion formerly used for Buddhist ceremonies.

The difference lies in the state of preservation of the chedi: it is still standing and retains traces of stucco in places . This was also the only visible part that protruded from the ground, while the rest of the building was covered with vegetation and a mound of earth (approximately 1,50 to 1,80 m ).

Since no document mentions this temple in particular, its name was given by the inhabitants and means " Temple of Grandfather Pia ". Based on its architecture, the construction is estimated to date from the 16th–17th centuries.

Wat E-Khang

The original name of this temple is unknown. As with the previous one, it was the locals who gave it its current name. And while it's difficult to imagine today, like Phra Prang Sam Yod in Lopburi , the site was once occupied by a colony of monkeys — called "khang" in the northern dialect.

Based on the architecture and some objects discovered during the excavations (tablets, fragments of terracotta pottery), the construction of the temple is again estimated to date from the 16th–17th centuries . The remains of the viharn form a common base upon which the very well-preserved chedi also rests.

The surrounding area suggests that it was possible to perform the circumambulation of the chedi there—that is, a ritual walk of three circuits performed clockwise—a practice visible and daily at Wat Phra That Doi Suthep and Wat Phra That Lampang Luang . Among other visible features, a section of the enclosure wall that once surrounded the temple was unearthed in 2003.

Two points of particular interest regarding this temple: the layers of sand that covered Wat E-Khang allowed for the initiation of a study to better understand the flooding phenomena that led to the decline of Wiang Kum Kam; and, in 2013 , the site hosted a state dinner during an Asia-Pacific summit—the remains of the temporary structure (used for only one day…) were still visible during my visit a few years later. The space has since returned to its normal appearance.

Wat Nan Chang

Although it is located next to Wat E-Khang, the site was only excavated later, between 2002 and 2003, while new excavations were being carried out on the neighboring temple. It stands out from the previous sites: while not the largest, it is the first to give a real impression of scale. It is a change from the "small isolated wats" and here we are faced with a complex that is more like a city temple.

Wat Nan Chang is a direct witness to the importance of past floods at Wiang Kum Kam, since layers of sand and sediment covered the site to a thickness of approximately 1,80 m . Moreover, the layout – with the dikes all around – gives the impression of a temple at the bottom of a basin but above all testifies to the original level in relation to the current ground.

The excavations revealed a unique feature: the complex is distinguished by the superimposition of two buildings from two different periods . They also uncovered elements comparable to other temples at Wiang Kum Kam: a viharn with its chedi, and several small secondary structures. The entire complex was surrounded by a perimeter wall; the lower part of an access gate can still be seen, aligned with a brick walkway.

Numerous figures of mythological animals have been found, including a makara (aquatic chimera, often crocodile/elephant/fish) at the end of a staircase banister. Other stuccos represent the Kilen (Qilin/Kirin), a Chinese creature combining a dragon, deer, bovine, and horse; the Haemaraja, a lion–swan hybrid typical of the Lanna/Himmapan bestiary; and the Singha, a guardian lion. Many of these had been deliberately buried in jars; some pieces came from China and date from the Ming dynasty (1368–1644).

Also worth noting: the temple faces north. This isn't unique to Wiang Kum Kam (Wat E-Khang also faces north), although most temples face east. This configuration is thought to be due to the river's former course: temples facing north used to face the Ping River, which has since been diverted. Finally, as a side note, the name, Wat Nan Chang, simply pays homage to the land's former owners.

Wat Huanong

While the river now flows more than a kilometer to the west, it's hard to imagine that at the end of the 13th century, Wat Huanong bordered the Ping River and its now-vanished ramparts. It's not the most visited site in Wiang Kum Kam, yet it's the largest complex in terms of area , roughly the size of a football field.

Its size is somewhat misleading, however: it is not a single temple, but a complex of three temples (5 according to some sources). Among these, two elements stand out: small elephant sculptures visible at the foot of the base of a chedi (a chang kham ), and a passage flanked by two massive brick walls — probably the remains of a monumental gate or arch on the northern access.

The rest, as usual, are brick foundations, some of which still appear half-buried. It's not comparable to the ruins of other historical sites, but being alone in front of these remains has its charm.

Wat Phaya Mangrai and Wat Phra Chao Ong Dam

Since these two temples are side by side, I've grouped them together here. They are ruins, of which only the brick foundations remain . On the side of Wat Phaya Mangrai (left photo), named in honor of the founding king of Wiang Kum Kam, you can see the base of the viharn and a square-based chedi.

Wat Phra Chao Ong Dam (also spelled Ong Dum , photo on the right) owes its name to the locals after excavations revealed the presence of a bronze statue blackened by fire—hence, "Temple of the Black Buddha Image." This small complex comprises four ancient structures: the viharn , its chedi , and probably an ubosot ; beyond that, I know nothing more.

Practical advice

The site offers a pleasant rural atmosphere while being very close to Chiang Mai. The whole of Wiang Kum Kam remains quite compact but: it is not ideal to cover it entirely on foot, less for the distance than because it crosses a lively village, with local traffic (even if it is not necessarily ultra lively, it is the lack of space and the absence of sidewalks to move around on foot that is problematic).

If you do not have your own means of transport, the easiest way is to go to the Wiang Kum Kam Information Center : in addition to the exhibitions and the site map, you will find regular tram departures and bicycles for hire nearby.

When to go?

• Morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat and enjoy better light (nice golden hour near Wat Chedi Liam).
• Friday late afternoon : small local market near Wat Chedi Liam.

How to get there?

• Distance : ~5 km south of the historic center (east side of the Ping), access by the 106 route (Chiang Mai – Lamphun).
• Tuk-tuk / songthaew : the easiest from the old town (negotiate the return trip or agree on a return point/time).
• Scooter : easy parking at the starting temple (often Wat Chedi Liam) or at the information center.
• Cycling : feasible if you are comfortable in the city (favour small roads). Rental possible on site as mentioned above.

Getting around

Below is a list of general information, but first, a quick summary of my experience. I initially parked near Wat That Kaow (taking a few photos while I was there), then near Wat E-Khang . From there, several temples are within walking distance of about 500 meters : the neighboring Wat Nan Chang , then to the west Wat Pupia (-200 meters), Wat That Kaow (~350 meters), and the pair Wat Phya Mangrai and Wat Phra Chao Ong Dum (~500 meters). From there, it's only about 200 meters to reach Wat Chedi Liam.

With this starting point, you'll only need to add Wat Chang Kham and Wat Huanong —on the other side of the site. For scale: the two temples furthest from each other on my list are less than 2 km apart.

• Carriage (2–4 people): approx. 200–300 THB the guided run (~45–60 min).
• Open tram (20 places): package 250–500 THB depending on the number of passengers.
• Cycling : rental possible around the information center (usual landmark ~50 THB).
• Starting points : generally since theInformation Center ; sometimes since the What Chedi Liam.

Wiang Kum Kam Information Center

• Hours : every day, approx. 08:30 a.m. – 16:30 p.m..
• Exhibitions : Several rooms tracing the history, excavations and discoveries.

Tips

• TAGS : correct attire in the watts active (shoulders/knees covered); shoes removed in prayer rooms.
• Remains : do not climb on the ruins, stay on the paths, avoid using drones without authorization.

In a nutshell: why visit Wiang Kum Kam

Obviously, it's neither the grandeur of Ayutthaya nor the prestige and setting of Sukhothai , but it's a small, easily accessible archaeological site that offers a glimpse into "pre-Chiang Mai" times. The site remains relatively untouched by foreign visitors, who tend to favor the activities and natural beauty around Chiang Mai: as a result, you often wander around almost alone, discovering ruins scattered throughout a vibrant village—all just a few kilometers from the city center.

A nice experience if you are interested in history, which takes little more than a morning — or half a day max.