Driving in Thailand is a great way to get off the beaten track, but there are a few things you should know before hitting the road. It's a topic that ultimately concerns quite a few people, especially those who enjoy independent travel, of which there are many in Thailand.
I have tried to compile here the rules to know, some reminders of the law (yes, there are some), and above all what you need to know to rent a vehicle and avoid problems.
As Jitima would say, in French in the original text: "Shall we go?"
Some statistics about driving in Thailand
I'll start with the most important question: personal safety. Isn't driving in Thailand a bit suicidal? As a reminder, there are over 20,000 road deaths in Thailand every year on average, which is more than 50 deaths per day. Enough to make anyone think twice! (Sorry for the dark humor.)
To put all this into perspective, Thailand loses an average of 300 to 450 lives per week on the roads, the equivalent of a small rural village disappearing, and a small town every year… A sad fact that regularly places Thailand in the top 10 of the deadliest countries on the roads according to the WHO.
Many accidents, around 75% on average, involve motorcycles. Yet, how many people still ride without a helmet? Tourists included… Fewer than before, but still too many, with poor-quality helmets and, worse, helmets not fastened, therefore useless…
Otherwise, the causes are often the same as in other countries:
- excessive speed (quite striking in Thailand)
- driving under the influence of alcohol or other substances
- the failure to wear a helmet or seatbelt (which is mandatory in Thailand)
- drivers distracted by the use of mobile phones or other
- roads with sometimes dangerous infrastructure (although I think there are significant efforts being made in this area)
- dangerous vehicles, particularly overloaded pickup trucks or lorries
However, all of this could be corrected quite "simply" by simply enforcing the law. The highway code does exist, but daily checks are very inconsistent and compliance is highly uneven.
One day they check for helmet use, the next day the same person walks past the police who aren't there to block the road, and suddenly, nobody cares…
However, the latest statistics seem more encouraging, with an apparent decline, proof that attitudes may be starting to change a little.
What's it like driving in Thailand?
Having made that necessary disclaimer, let's get to the heart of the matter. You've probably already heard about the chaotic streets in Asia, teeming with life, with all those two-wheelers weaving between the cars, and you're thinking: "Whoa, that's not for me..."
I understand. And it's enough to make anyone who's already uncomfortable at home feel uneasy. Here's a first piece of advice: if you're not a fan of driving, it's best to opt for public transport or hire a private driver.
If you've never ridden a scooter in your life, forget it. It's a very bad idea to start in a country whose driving rules you don't know, even if the whole point here is to try and understand them.
The first real change: driving on the left
The first major change in Thailand is quite obvious: driving on the left.
Unless you've already had experience driving in a country that drives on the left, it might seem trivial, but changing sides completely alters our perception and reflexes regarding road use. Typically, this means starting to enter a roundabout the wrong way… even though they are rare in Thailand.
An "organized mess"
The Thai driving style can be summarized as follows: the goal is to get from point A to point B quickly and easily, sometimes with a little bit of fun. Considerations of the law or safety standards are often a distant second.
Driving the wrong way instead of going an extra 500 meters? Easy. Riding four people on a motorcycle instead of taking public transport? No problem. Waiting at a red light? Why bother! I have time to go! This last point is especially true for motorcycles.
Ironically, for a people generally perceived as "cool," Thai drivers are extremely impatient, sometimes even more so than Parisians. Even though traffic lights usually display the waiting time, seeing that you have to wait 20 seconds or even 5 seconds at a red light? No way, too long!
To give you an idea, at an intersection it can look like this: in barely 1 minute, no less than 13 motorcycles run the red light with complete impunity.
Driving in Thailand is what I call "organized chaos". In a way, it's chaotic, since the driving rules are quite vague, priorities are not always obvious, and there are people who tend to come from everywhere, especially motorbikes.
It's not necessarily easy, at first glance, to understand how things work and the "road customs" in Thailand. Yet, it's essential if you want to avoid ending up in the hospital, or worse.
But having gotten my license here, I understand quite well why there's such chaos. The rules are clearly not well learned, there are no proper driving schools like in Europe, and even less so for scooters, where many learn "on the job" on their parents' bikes, sometimes from the age of 10…
There is clearly a lot of work to be done in driver education, as drivers are somewhat left to their own devices on the roads after a rushed and easily obtained driving test…
Typical situations to anticipate
Then there are situations that may seem dangerous, but to which your reaction must remain thoughtful. It is not uncommon, for example, to see a car approaching from the opposite direction while blithely overtaking another vehicle, when you are not far from passing each other.
Above all, don't panic. It's confusing, and in this situation, there's nothing wrong with flashing your headlights if the maneuver is too dangerous or too close to you—a way of saying, "Get out of the way!" But since roads are often wide in Thailand, it's common practice to move to the left and let the driver finish the maneuver.
The important point is to check, in doing so, that you are not going to obstruct a motorcycle traveling in the left lane.
As I mentioned earlier, it's also not uncommon to see two-wheelers going the wrong way, parked on the sides of the road. Although, in that case, you can see them coming.
The worst are those who come barreling in from the side from a street or road perpendicular to the main road, thinking: it's okay, I'm not wide, I have room to pass, even though we are arriving at the intersection in question.
In theory, yes… it will work… most of the time. Except that on the one hand it is surprising, and on the other hand, the reflex is often to move to the right, forgetting to look if someone is coming from the opposite direction or overtaking us if it is a dual carriageway.
In the city, you have to be particularly vigilant about this and really keep your eyes peeled. Another point: turn signals are often "forgotten," so you easily find yourself braking suddenly because the person in front didn't bother to signal that they were going to turn.
And overall, it's a bit of a case of the biggest dog, so beware of trucks, buses and vans: they are the cause of many accidents.
Risk periods and situations
Be aware that certain periods are obviously more risky. I'm thinking particularly of New Year's, whether it's December 31st or Thai New Year , which takes place around April 13th, 14th and 15th.
The festivities naturally lead to the kind of behavior you might expect, including letting loose and alcohol, which necessitates greater caution. Locally, they even call it the "Seven Dangerous Days." Consider yourselves warned.
Also note that, especially in the north, you will regularly come across police checkpoints, marked by cones and a triangle with the police symbol on the side and in the middle of the road, sometimes with a flashing light.
Slow down; you won't have much choice anyway, but if stopped by the police, hand over your vehicle registration and driver's license. If everything is in order, there shouldn't be any problems.
There are good points, though.
The advantage of Thailand, however, is that all of this happens in relative silence. There's very little honking, which is a good thing. If you've ever been to Vietnam or India, you know what I mean… Noise is exhausting.
Furthermore, many vehicles use automatic transmissions, which makes things much easier and allows you to concentrate better on the road. The same goes for two-wheelers: if you're not comfortable with a "pure" motorcycle, most 125cc models are automatic or semi-automatic, so there's no clutch, just gears to shift directly with your foot.
Another advantage: the road conditions are generally quite good. Finally, there are also some appreciated courtesies, such as moving to the left to let a faster vehicle pass from behind, or trucks briefly signaling that you can overtake them when your visibility is limited.
The holiday effect
The main problem remains a certain laxity, which sometimes leads to dangerous situations. Although this largely depends on one's own driving style and especially where one drives.
For example, it is much easier to drive in the central plains and the countryside of Isan (northeast), which often offer good visibility, than on the winding roads of northern Thailand.
But by laxity, I also mean all those people who will use the excuse of—because "that's how Thais do it"—and because it's the holidays, forgetting some essential basic rules. And here, I'm talking especially about two-wheeled vehicles.
I'll overlook those who ride around shirtless on scooters; the biggest problem is helmet use. And there are many in the south, more than anywhere else, who sport the wind-in-the-air look. I still struggle to understand how something that's automatic (admittedly out of necessity) for us is completely ignored as soon as we go elsewhere.
Actually, yes, we'll call it the holiday effect.
Even worse is when I see families, 3 or 4 of them, with their toddlers sandwiched between the adults… without helmets… and yes, there are some!
I want to remind you: helmets are MANDATORY in Thailand! And be aware, there are more and more checks in tourist areas.
Don't go saying that the police are targeting you just because you are a foreigner, even if in the islands or other heavily touristic areas, that can happen, but if you are not in compliance (and many are not) it is normal to give you a ticket.
The worst thing for me is the phenomenon of imitation. We hear so much about the scooter as the ultimate means of transport in Thailand that some people, out of sheer stupidity I have to say, decide to drive a vehicle they don't know how to handle.
It is unfortunately common to see people renting a scooter, 125cc minimum no less, for the first time in their lives here in Thailand… I'll let you imagine the scene.
Avoid possible scams
Without becoming paranoid, we shouldn't ignore the fact that scams do exist in Thailand. Among the most common is the so-called "jet ski scam," which is widespread in tourist areas like Pattaya and Patong.
But this scam can also apply to scooter or motorcycle rentals, and to a lesser extent to other vehicles.
So what does it consist of?
They simply try to make you pay for repairs for scratches or damage that were already there. This scam relies on two fairly simple elements.
First, many people don't check the vehicle before taking it. The solution is therefore quite simple: take two minutes to walk around the vehicle, or better yet, take photos.
A rental company in Chiang Mai was actually the first to ask me to do it, which is proof of their professionalism. This is also why this scam is less common with cars, as inspecting the vehicle before pick-up is normally part of the procedure.
Then there's the pressure exerted on the individual, who is often disoriented when surrounded by several people determined to get what they're owed. This pressure is all the more effective because many leave their passport as a deposit, as this is often required by two-wheeler rental companies.
And without a passport, you quickly find yourself stuck. So, in most cases, people pay. Sometimes exorbitant sums, up to 20,000 baht, or even the price of a new vehicle…
Next, choose well-known places, do some research online to find a reputable shop if needed, and also rely on word of mouth.
→ See my article to learn about all the scams in Thailand and how to avoid them
Rent a car or scooter in Thailand
Obviously, solo travelers and couples often prefer a simple, practical, and inexpensive mode of transport. And for that, the scooter perfectly fulfills these three criteria. Enjoy freedom, easy parking, and the ability to travel as you please. All of this is appealing, which is why this option is so popular in Thailand, especially on the islands.
However, I reiterate what I said earlier: I definitely don't recommend that beginners try riding a two-wheeler upon arriving in Thailand. If you lack the basic skills and the ability to handle such a vehicle, Asia is clearly not the place to hone your skills.
To draw an analogy, it would be like saying to a beginner skier: " Come on, let's do the black run! "
There will always be those who recount their experience, which for many went smoothly, with advice that can be summed up as "go ahead, don't worry, it'll be fine in a few minutes." Except that an accident can happen faster than you think.
How many times have I seen Leetchi or other crowdfunding campaigns to try to pay hospital bills which, without adequate insurance, because you need a motorcycle license (see below), climb very quickly.
See an example here, which teaches us in passing that in Ko Phangan, for example, no less than 500 tourists die each year, or more than one per day.
Renting a car is certainly more expensive and parking will be more complicated, but it's clearly safer. Especially if you're traveling as a family, it's a much more sensible option than trying to recreate the Thai experience with three people on a scooter, the little one in front as a makeshift airbag…
What are the conditions for renting a vehicle in Thailand?
What you need to rent a vehicle in Thailand:
- An international permit. Since March 3, 2026, the application process has been entirely digital via the ANTS / France Titres online service and cost 7,25 € For processing and delivery, you must complete the online form, upload the supporting documents, pay the fees by credit card, and then track the progress of your application through your account. The required documents include: proof of identity, proof of address less than 6 months old, a valid national driver's license, and a digital passport photo less than 6 months old in e-photo format. It is therefore best to submit your application well in advance of your departure.
- A copy of his passport or cash for a deposit, ranging from 3,000 to 10,000 baht depending on the vehicle
- A credit card, or at the very least a deferred debit card, for car rentalbecause it is used for the deposit
Scooter rental
This is where an important point needs to be made: in Thailand, driving a scooter is not covered by a standard car license. Even for a small model, you need the corresponding motorcycle license, in addition to an international driving permit.
If you don't have a motorcycle license, you'll see that only the stamp indicating you're authorized to drive a car will be valid. The A1 license, obtained by equivalence with a B license, is only valid in France. This French exception, allowing you to drive 125cc motorcycles after two years with a B license (provided you complete training), is not recognized in Thailand and therefore has no value here. Many people are still unaware of this, or prefer to ignore it.
As I mentioned earlier, in practice, few rental companies systematically ask to check this point. For them, it's not their problem, as long as they're renting out their equipment. However, for the police, or especially in the event of an accident, it can quickly become a problem.
But be careful : I want to reiterate that if you rent a motorcycle without the proper license, it goes without saying that your insurer is not required to cover you, since you would be at fault.
In any case, carefully check what your travel insurance covers before hitting the road, especially if you plan to rent a two-wheeler in Thailand. It's exactly the kind of detail you discover too late.
Remember to check the exclusions of your travel insurance: coverage for a scooter accident depends in particular on your license and compliance with the conditions stipulated in the contract.
→ I go into detail on this point in my guide on health and insurance in Thailand.
If needed, here is the travel insurance I recommend:
I recommend you Heymondo Travel Insurance (5% discount via my link).
Transparency: if you subscribe via this link, I will receive a small commission — at no extra cost to you.
In this regard, some reputable rental companies are now starting to check and refuse "first-timers" and other beginners.
It would be good if this became systematic, but the obligation for them to check permits BEFORE renting has unfortunately not yet become common practice (I think we will eventually get there).
Regarding the police, while it usually only amounts to a fine, up to 1,000 baht in this case, and also a waste of time, it's still better to anticipate the situation and avoid it altogether. After all, you don't go on vacation to end up at a police station, much less break the law.
I recently read about the case of a tourist who accumulated 8,000 baht in fines in 48 hours!
Assuming you are comfortable on two wheels but do not have a motorcycle license, at a minimum make sure your insurance covers you well in case of an accident.
In theory, some places can do it as long as you have your national license along with an international driving permit, even without a motorcycle stamp. But personally, I advise you to be cautious and wouldn't rely on it too much.
In any case, I know it's hot, and I know the basic helmets provided are often really poor quality, but wear one anyway, even if you end up buying one there. Especially if you plan on seriously exploring the country by motorcycle, you'll find full-face helmets in large supermarkets or specialist shops if the ones provided by the rental company are too low-end.
Not only is it mandatory (even if it's not always obvious), but since when is going abroad an open invitation to flout the law!? Not to mention the basic fact that it can save lives.
I can't help but make this little remark, because I imagine that in France, many wouldn't dream of riding without a helmet, so why allow this freedom elsewhere? If it were legal in itself, I wouldn't say anything, but it isn't!
Regarding the second point, and this relates to the previous paragraph, you should not leave your passport as collateral. Firstly, because it's illegal, but also to avoid finding yourself in the situations mentioned above, such as scams.
So what should you do? Offer a photocopy of your passport, which should also accompany you during your stay, as it is also practical to have one in case of loss or theft, rather than the original.
And if the landlord refuses, change locations, or ask if it is possible to pay the deposit in cash instead.
This is generally the best solution. In the case of a photocopy, it is common for the rental company to also ask for a cash deposit.
Opt for rental companies with a good reputation rather than the first one you come across. Reputable companies generally meet the requirements: no passport confiscation, cash deposit, motorcycles in good condition, etc. Here are a few recommended companies in the country:
- In Ko Samui :
- Tonton Rental, run by a Frenchman, has an established reputation. It offers both motorcycles and cars: https://www.tontonsamuirental.com/
- Jungle Wheels Samui Motorbike Rental is also a shop run by French people. It's newer, like their scooters, so the equipment is impeccable. https://www.facebook.com/JungleWheelsSamuiMotorbikesRental
- In Ko Phangan :
- Phangan Wheels, a reference on the island: https://phanganwheels.com/
- In Surat Thani, on the mainland side, on the Gulf of Thailand:
- Deer Motorbike Rentals : https://www.facebook.com/Deermotorbikerentalssuratthani/
- In PhuketThere is a wide range of choices, many of which are located in Patong:
- Rental Motor Patong : https://rentalmotorpatong.com/
- ET Motorbike Patong: https://etmotorbike.com/
- Cheap as Chips Motorbike, also in Patong: https://motorbikerentalphuket.com/
- Som Motorbike Rental, based in Phuket Town: https://www.facebook.com/Som-motorbike-rental-phuket-324546611825916
- Diamond Phuket Airport Scooter Rental is conveniently located next to the airport if you don't have large luggage: https://phuketairportscooterrental.com/
- In Krabi :
- Krabi Moto Rentals, if you are in Ao Nang: https://krabimotorentals.com/
- Yellow House, if you're staying in town: https://goo.gl/maps/Lj8mBUvtdzmrCLwB7
- In Chiang Mai :
- Cat Motors Motorbike Rental, located in the heart of the old town, which I personally tested, and which does not accept beginners: https://catmotors.net/
- Mango Bikes Rent, very good reputation: https://mangobikesrent.com/
- TBR Toon's Bike Rental & Tours, one of the best options: https://www.toonbikerentalandtour.com/
- In Chiang Rai :
- Nice Rental : https://www.facebook.com/Nice-Rental
- B-rider Motorcycle Rental Chiangrai: https://www.facebook.com/bridermotorcyclerental
- In BangkokLess common, but if ever:
- Fatboy's Motorbike, which I tested once to make a trip to Khao Yai : https://www.fatboysmotorbikes.com/
- Emma Motorbike, which has a branch in Sukhumvit and another north of the city, is convenient for getting out of town: https://www.emmamotorbike.com/
- Happy Bike Day, run by a Korean: https://happykmotors.com/
Car rental
When it comes to car rental, it's much more regulated. In my case, I prefer to use international rental companies, comparing their reputations: Avis, Sixt , Hertz, Budget, etc. Some local rental companies are also very good, so don't hesitate to do your research: Thai Rent A Car for Bangkok, for example, Samui Rent Cars for Ko Samui, or Chiang Mai Wheels , a leading name in the northern region.
An international driving permit is logically required here. Some local rental companies may still accept a national license only, but not the reputable ones. With them, the deposit is usually taken via your credit card, or failing that, a deferred debit card, and everything generally goes smoothly and without any scams.
In any case, ask if it's not already specified whether you need to return the vehicle with a full tank. You'll usually see it on the fuel gauge when you pick it up: if the tank is full, there's a good chance you'll need to return it full. Don't forget to check the fuel type as well, although there's usually little chance of making a mistake (it's marked on the fuel filler flap).
Above all, find out about the insurance: what is covered, the deductibles, and the conditions in case of an accident. You never know.
On the roads of Thailand
The reward for embarking on this adventure is the ability to explore at your own pace and, above all, to truly venture off the beaten path. All you need to do is be curious, patient, and cautious.
See a landscape you like? Quick, stop for a photo. Spotted a charming little village? Why not stop there? A deserted beach? You'll often find small restaurants there. And not just by the sea: in the mountains too, you'll find cafes, often with prime locations to admire a truly breathtaking view.
Traveling through Thailand by road also reveals another side of the country. Along your journey, you're sure to see some unusual scenes. Monkeys in the back of a pickup truck? Trucks loaded like mules, pickups piled high with over 5 meters of junk… it's all part of everyday life.
At the intersection, you'll also constantly encounter vendors offering small snacks—peanuts, doughnuts, or fruit—to motorists stopped at the traffic lights. Even more often, it's flower leis that some people hang from their rearview mirrors to ward off bad luck.
Here's an example of a great road trip you can do from Chiang Rai:
→ Doi Tung and Route 1149: panoramas and Akha coffee in Ban Pha Hi
Before leaving
- Check your vehicle thoroughly, and take photos if necessary.
- Don't hesitate to ask the rental company questions: what to do in case of an incident, who to call, if they have local maps for the attractions in the area… all information is good to have.
- Have all your documents ready: passport, driver's license, and then the vehicle's documents once the rental is finalized.
- Check the fuel level: some scooters are handed over to you with the tank almost empty.
On the road
- Don't forget: we drive on the left.
- Even though it seems obvious, be particularly vigilant.
- Keep your cool. Losing your temper while driving is particularly frowned upon and can quickly end badly for you.
- Assume that the driver in front of you could brake suddenly at any moment because they decide to turn without signaling. This is especially true in the left lane, but it also applies to the right lane if they decide to make a U-turn.
Overall, the roads are in good condition. Many of the main highways are now dual carriageway, at a minimum, or are being widened. Even country roads are generally well maintained. You really have to venture into remote areas to find roads full of potholes or completely unpaved.
Similarly, a large island like Phuket will inevitably benefit from a more extensive road network than a small island like Ko Kood. See below for the notable difference. I could let you guess, but obviously, that's Phuket on the left.
Reminder of the law
These are basic rules, which are also the norm in France:
- An international driving permit is mandatory.
- Wearing a helmet is mandatory.
- The permitted blood alcohol level is 0,25 mg per liter of exhaled air, or 0,5 g of alcohol per liter of blood.
- Speed limits are normally as follows: in town 50 to 80 km/h depending on the road, on highway 80 to 100 km/h, and on motorway 120 km/h, no more!
Note that they don't mess around with alcohol. It's not just a simple fine, which can already reach 20,000 baht, but potentially a court appearance and a criminal record. Don't take any risks, even for short distances. It seems obvious, but with the holidays, how many people forget this kind of reasoning…
If needed, use the Grab app to get a ride. There's also a feature that lets you arrange for someone to drive you instead of leaving your vehicle behind.
In general, I'll conclude with a simple point: you are here as a guest. Don't try to imitate the bad behavior of some locals under the pretext of "blending in" with the locals.
Spoiler alert: you won't be any more appreciated. Because even if the locals themselves can have confusing behavior on the road, they are also often the first to complain when foreigners, supposedly having a certain sense of civility on the handlebars/wheel, think they can do whatever they want elsewhere.
So you're ready to drive in Thailand, I hope! If you've already done it, what's your assessment?
