Cambodia was once a powerful kingdom, dominated by the Khmer, a civilization that was first Hindu and then Buddhist. Builders of the ancient city of Angkor and controlling a large part of the Southeast Asian region, they left an important legacy in the form of many majestic temples.
It is also a country with history particularly recent tragic, whose population is still struggling to heal the wound inflicted by the madness of the Khmer Rouge. Overall poorer than its Thai and Vietnamese neighbours, Cambodia is booming and its capital, Phnom Penh, is showing signs of being a dynamic and future-oriented city.
Obviously when When we think of Cambodia, we especially have in mind this image of majestic stone temples, surrounded by forest and whose tree roots have become embedded in what was once an imposing city.
I have to admit that Cambodia, although it is a neighbor of Thailand, is the country I know the least about... And apart from Siem Reap and the ruins of Angkor, Tonlé Sap Lake and its capital, Phom Penh, I have, almost shamefully, seen nothing else...
However, I could name a whole list of destinations in Cambodia that are also worth a visit. Starting with the seaside aspect, so popular in Thailand, but whose beaches in Cambodia have nothing to envy its neighbor.
“The monks have to move!”
“Children amused by my presence.”
When we think of the beach, we automatically think Sihanoukville which comes to mind, however, I have in my mind the image of the island of Rohan rong, which is on my “list” of things to see.
In the classic destinations, we find Battambang, a way to discover the Cambodian countryside in an original way using the old chemin iron, built during the time of French Indochina. Cambodians use bamboo slats with a small motor and wheels on rails and hop, That's it.
If we find traces of Indochina everywhere, even if only in the architecture of buildings, we can cite the city of Kampot, known for its pepper plantations and salt marshes, because yes, it is by the sea. Not far from there is the unusual Phnom Penh cave Chhngok Cave Temple, which contains, as its name suggests, an old building from the pre- Angkorian. This Hindu cave temple (dedicated to Shiva) was built in the 7th century.
If I come back to the old stones precisely, Angkor is certainly not the only wonder that Cambodia shelters. We can cite the city of Sambor Price Hip bone, before Angkor Wat (6th century) and its multitude of brick temples scattered throughout the surrounding woods.
In terms of nature, Cambodia is not left behind. In the remote regions of the east of the country, bordering Vietnam and Laos, we find the superb national park of Virachey. More in the center and bordering Vietnam, the region of Mondolkiri just waiting to be explored.
What has held me back from coming back so far? Cambodia is a country marked by poverty, and marked by the massacre committed by the Khmer Rouge just over 40 years ago. And I have this feeling that it is felt in their character. Like a sad look, a relationship with people where money is never far away, I am caricaturing but it is because my feeling is precisely difficult to write.
A girl in front of a temple selling postcards and other souvenirs, an image unfortunately still common in Cambodia.
By comparison, Laos, their northern neighbor, is just as poor but with a much more normalized and warm welcome. And while things have improved since my first visit, I have always struggled with the sometimes depressing aspect of coming across many children working on the Angkor sites for sale postcards, books and other trinkets in all languages to be able to pay for their studies (in the best case scenario).
We always feel guilty about not buying anything, because it's giving them a bad habit and at the same time, sometimes it's hard to resist giving a helping hand, even if it seems futile.
Here is a summary of some essential information to know before any stay in Cambodia.
Yes, unless you hold a passport from one of the following countries:
Un tourist visa costs $30 and allows a 30-day stay, extendable by going to the immigration office. As it is basic to obtain, basically just the passport and filling out the documents + identity photo, many people simply do it on site upon arrival (Visa on arrival).
Be careful though, if you are Algerian, the visa must be obtained in advance, and for that, fortunately, there is an e-visa.
The e-visa is a bit more expensive than the "one" arrival "On 36$. Just like a classic visa, you are issued with a residence permit valid for a defined period. (here, 30 days by default for a visa tourism). The only difference is that you will have this authorization beforehand, so it can avoid some inconvenience. bound at the land border crossing (see below the paragraph concerning scams)If you arrive by plane, it doesn't have much of an impact, but it's still a guarantee that you'll leave with a little more peace of mind.
The process remains quite simple, here are roughly the few steps to obtain the sesame, and first, connect to the official website of the Cambodian government. First, you can switch the site to French by clicking on the drop-down menu at the top.
Then there are a series of steps that you already know if you have ever had to do an e-visa:
Once finished, you should receive an email summarizing your request and, most importantly, a reference number, to see where your request is at. To do this, when returning to the site, look in the menu for the option "Check and change".
Once the e-visa is ready, you will receive another email inviting you to download it. Knowing that it can be very quick since if a request is made in the morning, you can have confirmation the same day.
As is often the case with e-visas, hence the need to know your point of arrival beforehand, it can only be used via certain accesses:
We come to the touchy subject. Border scams. Arriving in Cambodia is unfortunately known for being particularly prone to ways of getting a few extra bucks out of you.
Mind you, I'm not complaining about the amounts involved, which are quite small, but a scam, whatever the amount, remains immoral and unacceptable, even in a poor country.
And it's even worse when it's the officials who are directly involved in it.
In order not to overload this time, I wrote a dedicated article about crossing this border.
So here we enter the corruption category level +2000. This border is terrible in the sense that it concerns both the Laotian side and the Cambodian side. Although, from experience of most passages, it is easier on the Laos side (because you come out of it) than on the Cambodian side.
And this corruption is organized at several levels since even the buses crossing the border are in cahoots. Drivers offering to take your passports and arrange visas for a fee 40$...
Is 10$ just to be able to sit on a bus… A bit expensive for a few minutes of service, even if I have no doubt that it suits a good number of tourists who are resistant to it.Directors (is not Cahuzac who wants).
To summarize, as explained so far, the Cambodian visa is normally 30$ point. But here, we're going to add a whole bunch of fees that come out of nowhere and have no official validity. To cite an example, you will typically be asked 35$ for the visa, as if the latter had mysteriously increased since the previous day when you had checked the information on the net.
The first step is to reach the border. Many tourists do this in transit, taking a bus to their final destination, usually Siem Reap or Phnom Penh.
If you want to do everything independently, you will have to be patient. You can take a tuk tuk from Naka Sang, the village where the main pier for the 4 islands is located. It will take you the 000 km journey for 17 Kips (€100) and will drop you off 000 m from the Laotian border post, if you share it with several people, it's still reasonable.
And here the trouble begins. To leave Laos, you are asked 2$. The stamp is expensive…. If you refuse, you will be ignored and told that you are stuck in Laos.
In fact, if you stay patiently and regularly hand your passport to the customs officer with a smile, it usually ends up going through. You might first see one of those busloads of tourists pass by who will happily pay without asking any questions and with luck, you will pass right by, without paying.
On the Laos side, the advantage is that they remain relatively calm if you refuse to play their little game. It's just a psychological "war". The most important thing is not to lose your cool.
Crossing the border between Laos and Cambodia. Photo credit Google Maps
Then you cross the No Man's Land and arrive Cambodia side. There, we will pretend to have a medical check-up and you will be asked 2$ Moreover. Depending on the case, this step is easy to avoid. (if you have an international health record for example) or failing that, to negotiate (1$).
Next comes the visa stage itself. If you already have your e-visa in your pocket, you may be asked for 2 more$ just to stamp (the ink is expensive…) but it should make the transition much easier without too much “damage”. On the other hand, if you do the visa on arrival, things get worse.
Cambodians take their cinema very seriously and are directly aggressive.
If you ever arrive via the bus I mentioned just before and refuse the driver's "offer", it will be you who will have to face the customs officers with the pressure of the driver who will not fail to tell you that he will leave without you if it takes too long... Hence the option of coming to the border yourself, taking your time and then taking a leisurely bus after the border to reach your destination.
You must fill out the form and provide an identity photo and then provide the 30$, which as mentioned above, often turns into 35$ direct. If you don't want to take part in this organised racket, the customs officers won't give you any gifts, they'll yell at you, threaten you with not being allowed to enter and will even tear up your form, good atmosphere...
Some might be tempted to ask this question and give up by taking the all-inclusive option of 40$ with the bus. Certainly. Obviously it can be unnerving to be barked at by a sworn government officer… But it's still bullying and overall they're not patient, so if you stay polite and patient, it usually ends up passing.
In the end, it's up to you to decide whether, beyond the savings it can make, you want to participate in this lucrative business or not.
If you want to go directly to Cambodia from France, you will need to arrive in its capital, Phnom Penh (PNH).
Depending on your itinerary and if your priority target is to visit the temples of Angkor, it may be a good option to come via Bangkok and cross the land border at aranyaprathet to join You reap. It is not necessarily shorter as such, but the prices for flights from Paris to Bangkok will certainly be more interesting than a Paris to Phnom Penh flight, which, moreover, simply does not exist as a direct flight (unless the national airline Cambodia Angkor Air starts offering it).
However, there are some interesting options, including via Thai Airways, the Thai national airline, first passing through Bangkok and then making the Bangkok – Phnom Penh flight via its subsidiary Thai Smile (from €470 for the Paris – Phnom Penh flight in this case).
The same is possible for a Paris – Siem Reap with Thai Airways but it is more expensive (at least from €590) but with a generally long return stopover. Same with other companies like China Eastern, a Paris – Siem Reap can be found for €500 but with a long stopover in Shanghai between 8 and 12 hours.
Other interesting options include: Singapore Airlines, with a stopover in Singapore for €600 or even Cathay Pacific with a stopover in Hong Kong, which are two excellent companies.
My first visit was in 2007. It was the first country I visited in Asia outside of Thailand, at a time when I was not yet living there. At that time, a good part of the road between the border with Thailand and You reap was not even tarmacked… This shows that the country has come a long way.
Because in recent years, growth sometimes reaching 10% has helped to improve things. Getting around Cambodia in 2019 is less epic than it was over 10 years ago.
Because it was cheap and convenient for us, my first local transport in Cambodia was a taxi… an old car gathering dust along the 150 km separating Siem Reap from Poipet, the town on the border. Negotiated at $40, knowing that there were 2 of us and given the distance, we found it reasonable and especially not a headache. But that was more than 10 years ago. Things change.
The bus transport system, whether regional or national, is still quite haphazard compared to other countries in Southeast Asia. However, it is starting to get organized and you can find serious companies like Phnom Penh Sorya, which offers a service with modern bus from the capital. Similarly, there is the Mekong Express Company, which also offer some ferry connections and scooter rentals.
There are even international connections (such as Phnom Penh – Bangkok or to reach Ho Chi Minh in Vietnam) and each of these companies also offers an app so you can book from your mobile.
Between Phnom Penh and You reap, it is also in bus that I was riding with the Giant Ibis Company, which offers modern, comfortable buses (with WiFi, please), small snacks and comfortable seats. Quite long, because the road is in poor condition and there are stops, it takes 6 hours to cover the 320 km (an average of just over 50 km/h). But it is very good value for money ($ 15), therefore preferable to a Phnom Penh flight – You reap, much more expensive considering the distance (see below).
Note that they also have a Bangkok – Siem Reap connection.
Outside the capital, there will generally be a bus terminal but I am less well-versed in talking about it since I ultimately had few opportunities to take one. Beware, however, of the border with Thailand at Poipet, to reach Siem Reap. And I am talking about it in my post, it is a border particularly prone to scams.
Because while there is an "official" bus terminal, it is out of the way. You are "kindly" taken there by a free shuttle. But it is a somewhat fanciful terminal, because the buses wait until they are full to leave, which almost never happens, especially because the taxis that hang around there are pushing to offer their service for a fee and there are rarely enough people to get...
Otherwise, there are private minibuses, which, if they will possibly be more expensive than these ghost buses that you are promised at this bus station, will at least be efficient and direct. I also mentioned it at the end of the article cited above, it is a local company:
There is still a lot of work to be done in improving the roads when I visited in 2014 with the Giant Ibis bus, the roads were still unpaved for miles.
I am not talking about the city bus, because these are simply non-existent in Cambodia, including in the capital Phnom Penh!
Locally in cities, tuk-tuks are kings, after all we are in Asia. After that, they generally differ from their Thai cousin and are locally called moto-dop. In Cambodia, these machines are actually carts attached to the back of a small motorbike. They are the preferred means of transport for tourists, whether to visit the sites of Angkor or to go from one point of visit to another in Phnom Penh for example. The locals also use them, I just want to point out that they are more popular, to this day, than the "car" taxis, which are simply rarer. It is also and above all the means which remains cheap (and faster than the bike).
Not everyone can afford to do the tours by bike (as is possible in Angkor) and renting a motorbike yourself is not possible from Angkor. It is common to rent them for the day, especially if you are happy with them, so as to not have to worry about finding one (even if in Phnom Penh there is really no shortage), you do all the visits in Angkor (typically over 3 days) with the same driver.
On a basic day, 6-8 hours, count $15 per day. For an extended day, expect double that, $30. Which is often the case since getting up early allows you to better appreciate the temples in the morning and Avoid the crowds when visiting Angkor, in addition to seeing the superb sunrises over the region and the same at sunset.
Otherwise, the one-off races generally come down to $1 per kilometer.
As such, it is rare to find car rental companies WITHOUT driver in Cambodia. The fault lies in chaotic driving which cools international companies to the idea of letting foreigners drive. This remains my interpretation, given the problem that this could cause with repeated accidents, even non-serious ones, and the consequences with insurers.
But the reality is that driving in Cambodia would require some experience of Asian driving. Because if you drive on the right, it comes from everywhere and you can forget about priorities. And in addition to motor vehicles, it is everything that hangs around that can turn out to be dangerous. The many pedestrians on the sides of the roads, the animals, the generally poor state of the roads and all these parameters must be taken into account.
I found only one rental company "risking" the exercise, based in Phnom Penh, with rates starting from $ 50 per day normally. He has a set of vehicles, rather well maintained even if some cars are almost 20 years old. You can contact Mr Henry on his Facebook page:
And he also has a profile on the Cambodian equivalent of Le Bon Coin, the Khmer 24 site (the prices displayed there are for a monthly rental):
Remember to get your international license (to be requested from your prefecture via an online procedure, this can take several months). You can even apply for a Cambodian driving license on site, this avoids misunderstandings with the police who are not aware of the validity (officially recognized) of the international license in Cambodia. You will find all the information here.
Obviously, the same remark about road chaos applies to scooter rental. It is for this same reason that you will not find rentals of this type in Siem Reap. Well, yes, you could find some, but at quite high rates since it is officially forbidden. For example, I saw a recent Honda Click (2019) for rent at $18 per day (on the site: Eco Adventure Electric BikeTour)
Outside of Siem Reap it's different. For example, you can find motorcycles for rent in Phnom Penh on the site below, from Only $6 per day.
There remains the possibility of renting bikes "wisely". You will normally find them, easily, almost everywhere and for prices around $2-3 per day (maybe less, depending on the condition of the bikes). The fashion lately being electric bikes, combining reduced effort and increased speed to visit sites freely.
A leader in Siem Reap being Green Bike (at the time of writing, the company is listed as being for sale, so beware of possible repercussions). A serious competitor being Bayon Electric Bike Rental.
Let's not forget, but Cambodia is a coastal country. In addition, it is crossed by a major river, the Mekong, and has a large central lake. As you will have understood, it is possible to sail in Cambodia.
The country has 1 km of navigable waterways, although the state of the roads is improving, added to the return of the train, the boat is becoming more obsolete in the interior of the country. The majority of the connections are mainly to connect Sihanoukville to the islands of Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem. To do this, there is a site that offers ferries:
To sail on the Tonle Sap Lake, known for its famous floating villages, you can take a boat between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, although the scenery will be monotonous on the 5-hour journey. More interestingly, you can sail on the lake between Siem Reap and Battambang instead, but avoid doing so in the dry season.
There is also a route between Phnom Penh and the border town of Chau Doc in Vietnam, via the Mekong. To book, you can use the Direct Ferries website, which is also a partner of Buva Sea.
While a new line linking the Thai border from Poipet to Sihanoukville is in the pipeline, Cambodia's rail network is one of the poorest and most dilapidated in Asia... Despite a pre-existing network, due to the Indochina period, it has not been maintained due to lack of resources and a complicated history. The old Phnom Penh station, opened in 1932, only resumed service a few years ago and most of the trains running there are very slow.
With the Western line which was built in the 30s-40s while the Southern line dates from the 60s, without ever having been really renovated, plus the damage linked to the civil war (Khmer Rouge), the railway network in Cambodia is tired in addition to being limited. Suffice to say that this mode of transport is primarily reserved for fans of train travel.
Until 2009, there was only one train service left in Cambodia, from Battambang to Phnom Penh. It ran every other day until 2006, when it was reduced to once a week, and in 2009 it stopped running altogether. From 2009 to 2016, there were no regular passenger trains in Cambodia, only buses.
Current railway network in Cambodia (image RailTravel Station).
While the network has since come back to life, the map is pretty self-explanatory, and currently only includes the following lines:
The Phnom Penh – Sihanoukville section, which passes through Takeo and Kampot, has only been operational since 2016 and the section between Phnom Penh and Poipet only went as far as Battambang until very recently. But there is a desire to extend and improve this network, driven by the famous Chinese “new silk road” project (the Pan Asian Railway Network, connecting Kunming to Singapore). Thus, lines are planned to pass over the northern part of the Tonlé Sap lake, connecting Phnom Penh and Siem Reap by train. There is also a Northern line, planned to reach both the border with Vietnam and the border with Laos (at the level of the 4 islands).
Image from the site Cambodian trains (site only in English though)
I was talking about slow trains and patience, you have to know that to this day, doing a Phnom Penh – Sihanoukville will take more than 7h30 when a bus journey does it in “only” 5 hours (in the best case, in general, it is more of the order of 6:30, which is still shorter than by train).
But it remains a cheap option, appreciated even by locals, since this journey costs $ 7 against almost double at $ 13 by bus (With Giant Ibis in any case, there are certainly fewer expensive by bus more local).
For information on timetables and fares, you have the official website of the company which was granted a 30-year concession to operate the railways in Cambodia:
There is also some information (maybe even more up to date) on their Facebook page, as well as photos to give you an idea of the trains running in the country. Some seem to have air-conditioned and rather modern interiors while others are similar to a 3rd class with seats lined up like in some metros.
Air transport can be useful to save time, given the journey times by bus or train when possible. Today, there are low-cost companies (often managed by foreign investors) offering fares ranging from €55 to €80 return for flights Phnom Penh – Siem Reap for example. The advantage is that they are recent and therefore of a good standard compared to the general means available in Cambodia in terms of transport and infrastructure.
Cambodia currently has 3 international airports, which are also the only airports in the country:
After that, with 3 possible drop-off points, this greatly limits the interest, especially if we take into account the "ecological" aspect and the distances to be covered given the size of the country. But this remark is especially valid for domestic flights, except, it can be interesting in the context of a trip to Asia, if you have to reach a next destination which is not necessarily the neighboring or nearby country.
Plane of the national airline Cambodia Angkor Air. Photo credit: aeroprints.com / CC BY-SA
That is why I am presenting below the different companies that allow internal and international connections from these airports. All are based in Phnom Penh except the last one, Sky Angkor Airlines, based in Siem Reap.
With low-cost airlines, the service is clearly optional and certainly does not reach the level of other regional airlines in Asia, and in particular Thailand, which is a rather good student in this area. (it is not perfect either nor the same standard of living and experience either is All right !).
As it is the country I know the least, I will not go into too much detail about the types of accommodation, but from what I have seen, it is like everywhere, you find as many small cheap guesthouses as large hotel complexes, at least in tourist areas.
Outside of that, I couldn't say, but on the other hand, I think that the standards are improving overall because between the choice that there was in Siem Reap in 2007 and that in 2016, it was very different, and better. Better trained staff, more welcoming and above all clean rooms with air conditioning, at reasonable prices.
Here are some examples of hotels I recommend:
A hotel that, between 2014 and 2016, was extended with a brand new building just opposite the "old" one. The room rate is €16 compared to €10 previously. But even at this rate, it remains an excellent reference with very clean and modern rooms (for the new building, the old one being a little more sad, at least in 2014). The location remains close to the old market of Siem Reap and next to several restaurants without being in a noisy area.
In Phnom Penh, I stayed at The Artist Residence (which was then called Guesthouse and not Residence). Very well located, right in front of the national museum, the room was really cool with the bed on the mezzanine, air-conditioned and I had paid only €24 (single room, cheaper if in a dormitory obviously). I saw recent photos, it has already undergone a little facelift and keeps its good reputation.
From what I can see, there is now a fairly large range of hotels similar to those found in Thailand, for varying prices. between fifteen euros and around thirty euros if we move upmarket.
Since the health conditions are not particularly high standard, a stay in Cambodia is never really without risk. The same goes for the risk of a road accident, which is always possible in Asia, knowing that renting a two-wheeler is often a preferred way to get around independently. In addition, travel insurance, especially if you are going to Asia for several months, can be more than welcome in the event of a problem, because credit card insurance is limited.
The maximum amount for healthcare costs covered by traditional credit cards may prove insufficient (around €10 compared to €000 for dedicated travel insurance) and does not cover civil liability.
I advise you ACS Travel & Expatriation Insurance Solutions.
I would like to point out that if you subscribe to the insurance via the link, I will receive a small commission. This is a simple way to help keep the site running, because insurance is preferable anyway and it will therefore be beneficial for both you and me.
Much like its neighbor Thailand, there are no mandatory vaccinations as such, however, several are recommended (and may be even more so depending on your destination points).
Recommended Vaccines
According to the recommendations of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs regarding Cambodia, in addition to the always desirable diphtheria-tetanus-polio (DTP) vaccination update, a measles-mumps-rubella (MMR) vaccine if you have children and an anti-tuberculosis vaccination should also be considered.
The most important thing is to protect yourself with a good anti-mmosquito, because besides malaria, it is mainly diseases like Dengue or the virus Zika that must be feared.
I don't know the quality of care in Cambodia since I haven't had to test it... What is certain is that the hospital structures in Cambodia are of unequal level and do not always correspond to international standards, I am talking at least about public hospitals.
Hygiene conditions are generally quite good. rustic So even if it may seem obvious, there are some precautions to take:
Some addresses to remember in case of problems:
Bag snatchings are reported in places like Siem Reap. Even our tuk tuk driver was telling us to be careful not to show off the handbag/backpack too much.
Personally, I have never had any problems, but it's like everywhere, a few precautions are in order: don't pick fights with locals, don't take part in gatherings.
If you drive, especially a 2-wheeler, be particularly vigilant given the state of the roads and please, don't play the adventurer of freedom, wear a helmet! Don't leave your passport as a deposit.
– Emergency numbers –
Police : 117 or 118
Samu : 119
Let's try to summarize the attractions of Cambodia. Having a lot to discover myself, much of what I share here are simply destinations that are part of my “must see” list. The country has 24 provinces plus the capital; Phnom Penh, which has a status all its own.
For reasons of "readability", I will divide the regions into four. This is more or less like drawing a cross-shaped division with a North-West, North-East, South-West and South-East quarter. If I summarize, the North-West quarter corresponds to all the regions around Tonlé Sap Lake. The North-East quarter corresponds to a rural and mountainous area, it is probably the least visited part of the kingdom. The South-East quarter corresponds to Phnom Penh and its surroundings. Finally, the South-West quarter, encompasses the entire coastline, with the main islands that make Cambodia a country as appreciated for its heavenly beaches as for its mythical ruins.
Tonle Sap Lake, it is the nerve center of the country. If unscrupulous businessmen take over the business of showing these Vietnamese refugees who live on floating houses in Chong Kneas, the lake offers much more than that, with plenty of fishing communities, many having houses on stilts rather than floating, but the charm is there.
An example being one I had visited more recently, Kampong Phluk, further east of Siem Reap. Further on, you have the village of Kampong Khleang, while to the south of the lake, closer to Phnom Penh, there is the Kampong chhnang Floating Village.
Afterwards, it is above all a large region which includes many historic sites of the first order. Starting of course with the temples of Angkor, located next to Siem Reap. This world-renowned site and Unesco World Heritage was once a glorious city of the Khmer Empire, which stretched all the way to the west of present-day Thailand. It has obviously become a must-see and the country's premier attraction. Whether it's the imposing Angkor Wat, popular for sunrises (more than sunsets), the mystical bayon temple with enigmatic faces or the Your Prohm where nature has reclaimed its rights, you will have something to marvel at for a few days.
However, we should not overlook all the other important Khmer sites. If Angkor is the oldest (and the largest) in the world heritage list, we can mention the Preah Vihear Temple, also registered in the UNESCO heritage (since 2008). The complex is located on the border with Thailand, which has led to regular clashes between the two armies, due to a dispute over the legitimacy of the said border (settled to date at the international tribunal in The Hague).
Last site added in 2017, the area of Sambor Prei Kuk temples, completes this list of sites currently registered as UNESCO World Heritage Site in Cambodia. This archaeological site meaning in Khmer, "the temple in the lush forest" is recognized as being the ancient capital Ishanapura, which prospered between the end of the 6th century, until the beginning of the 7th century (i.e. before Angkor). Moreover, along this border with Thailand, bordered by a mountain range, one can find a whole bunch of small ruins, some of which are also accessible on the Thai side (I will talk about it in an article).
Moving away a little, it is possible to visit some gems, some of which are on the indicative list, with a view to applying for registration with UNESCO. First, to the northwest of Siem Reap, not far from the Thai border, there is the Banteay Chhmar temple, a perfect example of the complexes of the Angkorian golden age.
Gate to Banteay Chhmar Temple. Photo credit User: (WT-shared) Andrewjmarino at wts wikivoyage / CC BY-SA
To the east, there are two sites that you can visit on your way to Preah Vihear. First, 60 km from Siem Reap, there are the remains of the Beng Malea Temple, an imposing 12th century complex. Heading north, you can take a tour of the archaeological site of Koh Ker, also called Chok Gargyar. The main temple bears a striking resemblance to the Mayan pyramids of Central America, but the site contains no fewer than 76 temple ruins dating back to the XNUMXth century. The Pram Temple neighbor is a good example of an old temple that has become nicely engulfed by tree roots.
North of Angkor, you can complete your visit with the Phnom Kulen National Park, which combines a protected natural area and ancient temples scattered throughout its forest. The most famous site being Kbal Spean, which includes rock carvings along a stream. On the western side of this mountain, head to the Phnom Kulen fall, which is divided into two floors, the 2nd being the most beautiful. Next to it, you will see two temples, the more recent Preah Ang Thom and its reclining Buddha, while you have the Kraol Romeas nearby if you are already lacking ruins.
South of the mountain, closer to Beng Mealea, you can see some sculptures in the middle of the forest, including that of an elephant at the site called "Elephant Pond". Finally, to complete, you have several ruins around the village of Anlong Thum, including the temple of Bram or Aur Pha On, and also sculptures on the rock at the site of Peung Tbal.
Not far from the Beng Per wildlife sanctuary, there is finally the complex of Preah Khan Kompong Svay, another site on the indicative list which completes this already long list of archaeological sites in Cambodia.
Let's talk a little about the South of Tonlé Sap Lake. The "classic" stage being the Battambang city. If we find of course some temples like the Phnom Banan, 20 km to the south or the Wat Ek Phnom or north, it is above all for its rural atmosphere that the city is appreciated. Another attraction, the Phnom Sampov, a hill overlooked by a temple and where there is also a cave with bats that come out en masse in the evening.
Until recently, the main attraction was actually the ride along the rails on " bamboo train", improvised "trains" with a bamboo platform under which two axles are placed and the whole thing pulled by a motorcycle or lawnmower engine. The idea was originally to use the old abandoned rails to transport goods and people, becoming a tourist attraction in its own right. This activity obviously had to stop in October 2017, with the rehabilitation and restart of the train service between Phnom Penh and Poipet, via Battambang.
Faced with the loss of income of those who lived from this activity, a home train service was set up around Phnom Banan (also called Vat Banon) and consequently renamed "Banon Bamboo Train". But I want to clarify that from what I saw as a photo, it is just "Disneyland" and has nothing more to do with the "resourceful" side of the original bamboo trains.
This is where the country's two main nature reserves are located, Virachey National Park, bordering Laos, and Mondulkiri region, which borders Vietnam. Nature lovers, this is where you need to go. In addition to being superb, it is not very touristy.
The first, Virachey National Park is located in a remote region of Cambodia. It is covered by thick forests perfect for trekking enthusiasts (I recommend Green Jungle Trekking Tours which has an excellent reputation), but also have vast open meadows such as Veal Thom, contrasting greatly with the idea that one has of Cambodia. The small town of Krong Ban Lung serves as the starting point for visiting the park and associated treks. Around, you can visit several waterfalls : Kachanh Waterfall, Katieng Waterfall or even the 7 steps Waterfall, further away to the South.
The second, the Mondolkiri, whose name means " meet hills”, encompasses an entire province. It is also a little visited region, because it is less easy to access. There are waterfalls to visit, such as the fall of Bousra or even the little one Dak Dam Falls, close to the village of the same name, home to the Bunong community, an ethnic minority in Cambodia. Mondulkiri is also a popular region for observing elephants. To do this, there are two possible places: Mondulkiri Project et The Elephant Valley Project, both located in the town of Sen Monorom (also spelled Saen Monourom), where there is also a waterfall nearby.
Veal Thom Meadow in Virachey National Park. Photo credit Mangoholic2 / Public domain
The other provinces forming this North-Eastern quarter are also interesting. I can mention Stoeng Treng, crossed by the Mekong and of which you have, 30 km south of the 4 islands in Laos, the flooded forest of Koh Han island. Its characteristic being its particular roots, capable of resisting the strong current of the rainy season. Go further south to Kampi, in Kratie province, if you want a chance to spot the rarest dolphin on this planet, the Mekong dolphin, more commonly known as Irrawaddy dolphin (named after the main river running through Burma).
Finally further south, returning to Phnom Penh, you can stop by Kampong cham. Near this town on the Mekong is a beautiful ruin which is part of a still active temple, the Wat Nokor.
Tree roots in Koh Han, along the Mekong River. Photo credit @GeerawatN (twitter)
As with any country, the capital, Phnom Penh is still well worth a visit. Among the main attractions, we find of course its royal palace, its museums, notably that of the former Khmer Rouge prison, Tuol Sleng or Wat Phnom, a small temple overlooking a small hill, surrounded by a park. A quick tour of the Phnom Penh Central Market will complete your visit to the capital.
But besides the city itself and its old colonial buildings and temples, there is also the small Koh Dach Island. Located in the middle of the Mekong River, which crosses Phnom Penh, it is nicknamed the Silk Island. Going further north, you can take a look at the Oudong temple, at the top of the hill of Phreah Reach Traop.
As with Thailand, southern Cambodia is favored for its coasts, beaches and islands. This is where it is located Sihanoukville, kind of Pattaya local, casinos in addition. Next to the city in full metamorphosis, there are the peaceful islands of Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem. On Koh Rong, the largest, we lounge on Sok San Beach ou Kaoh Touch Beach while on Koh Rong Sanloem, closer to Sihanoukville, we appreciate the tranquility of Lazy Beach or his neighbor Sunset Beach, although the main and largest beach on the island, Saracen Bay Beach, is also very good.
The "Rong" islands are not to be confused with the similarly named one of Koh kong, further north as you get closer to the Thai border. Koh Kong is also wilder. Be careful with the spelling of names, however, because the name Koh Kong also refers to the entire province as well as its main city. It is perhaps to distinguish all of this that the island is always spelled "Koh Kong" when the city and the province are generally distinguished by the term Kaoh Kong (the city is also called Krong Khemara Phoumin). BUT, the problem is that the beach listed as Koh Kong Beach on Google Maps corresponds to the one close to the city (and of no interest), when the one marked Koh Kong Beach corresponds to the main beach of the island!
This is the moment to point out that when I talk about "peaceful" islands, it might unfortunately not last because of Chinese investments in Sihanoukville harshly transforming the area. When I see the changes that have happened in such a short time on the island of Koh Rong Sanloem or that of Koh Russey a An island south of Sihanoukville that was still wild just 5 years ago, and now has two large hotel complexes, which does not bode well.
Paradoxically, it is in this same region that the country's main mountain range is located, the Cardamom chain, where the highest point in Cambodia is located, the Phnum Aoral (1 m). It is one of the best preserved regions in the country. It is not for nothing that it includes three national parks, the Kirirom National Park in the East, the Boutum Sakor National Park, to the South-West and finally the Preah Monivong National Park, in the south-east corner and with sea view.
The latter is best known for its famous Bokor hill station (1 m), abandoned several times, the last time in the early 064s and until recently, in the early 70s.
Built with ambition in the 20s during the period of French Indochina, what was to become a health resort (similar to Dalat in Vietnam, in style and atmosphere) turned out to be a bitter failure. The result was the church, which can still be visited, the post office (destroyed in 2012), the Five Junks Pagoda (Sampov Pram Pagoda), still in operation and above all the legendary Bokor Palace. Other buildings would arrive later, in the 60s, when a second wind would come to the site, with the appearance of a town hall, in fact, the former residence of King Monivong, a casino and a police station. If these mountains sheltered the last rebel strongholds of the Khmer Rouge until the 90s, they have since experienced a resurgence of interest and an ambitious project to make it a real small town is underway. The Bokor Palace has since been beautifully restored to welcome guests once again, while another oversized luxury hotel and casino has sprung up on the mountain, the Thansur Sokha Hotel.
Sea view from Bokor. Photo credit Adam Jones from Kelowna, BC, Canada / CC BY-SA
Coming back to the islands, if you go to see the wild coasts of the Boutum Sakor National Park, then go to the small port of Kiki Sakor. You will have in its bay a group of islands, including King Island ou Koh Totung (also spelled Kaoh Totung), a little lost paradise. The area is apparently a well-known spot for divers.
If you go back up towards the border with Thailand, besides Koh Kong already mentioned, you can take a trip to Peam Krasaop Sanctuary If you are not already familiar with mangroves, then go to Tatai Falls not far away (Tatai Waterfall).
If you are staying closer to Vietnam, then a stopover in Kampot is essential. It is a quiet little town, not far from Bokor, whose local pride, besides its roundabout displaying a giant durian sculpture (a mythical Asian fruit due to its strong smell) is its production of pepper, considered one of the best in the world. For the record, although located in Vietnam, it is off the coast of Kampot that the island of Phu Quoc is located, less than 20 km from the Cambodian coast (the journey is longer to reach the island from Vietnam, then 45 km from the coast of Ha Tien, but it is the only way because it is not possible to go there directly from Cambodia).
Nearby you can see salt marshes and an old sanctuary in a cave, Phnom Chhngok Cave Temple. And if you like rock formations and cavities, you can visit along the way Phnom Kbal Romeas, a group of karst caves and archaeological excavation sites dating back to prehistoric times (earning it the nickname of the cradle of Cambodia).
Finally last step, Kep, a coastal area appreciated for its beach and which you can admire from the heights of the Kep National Park, or from the small temple Wat Samathi Pagoda. Off the coast of Kep is a small island where you can enjoy a deserted beach, Koh tonsay.
As a bonus, if you return to Phnom Penh, you can pass through Takeo, capital of the province of the same name. To the west of the city you have the little-known site of Angkor Borei and Phnom Da. Going back up towards Phnom Penh, 60 km south of the capital, you have the Phnom Chisor, a temple located on a hill overlooking the Takeo countryside.
Kep Beach. Photo credit Mx. Granger / CC0
Here is a map to locate and summarize all the destinations and places of interest in Cambodia:
To help you, here are some suggestions for quick routes:
Siem Reap (4 nights) – Battambang (1 night) – Phnom Penh (2 nights)
To be a little more specific, in one week, it is strongly assuming a combined excursion from a neighboring country, like Thailand. Given the duration, the idea is to focus on the essentials and I imagine that is what interests you in this case, the temples of Angkor. In this case, in my opinion, you need a minimum of 3 days to see the essentials of the site, which is quite spread out (we are talking about an ancient city, so it was vast).
Taking into account the transport time on the day of your arrival, a night before starting the visits is not too much, hence 4 nights in Siem Reap. To reach Phnom Penh, a short stop in Battambang is possible but not obligatory.
Phnom Penh (2 nights) – Mondolkiri (2 nights) – Kampot (2 nights) – Koh Rong (2 nights) – Sihanoukville (1 night) – Battambang (2 nights) – Siem Reap (4 nights)
A tour like this should allow you to see a bit of every aspect of Cambodia. Taking into account transport times, it is perhaps a bit ambitious, but remains adaptable in idea.
In Cambodia, the climate remains similar to its neighbors, it is a tropical climate. Even if we do not make too much distinction with the hot season from March to May which is called summer in Thailand.
Here, we just cut the seasons in 2.
If you want to enjoy the beaches of Cambodia, the sea temperature is very warm all year round, ranging from 28°C in January to 30°C in June.
The best time to discover Cambodia is therefore between the months of November and March during the dry season. The ideal being January and February to have more pleasant temperatures and less humidity.
Afterwards, I put a flat note on it all the same, for having been to Cambodia in different seasons (December, August and March respectively), each season offers its advantages and disadvantages. Many people hate the idea that it might rain, but let's see what it brings!
It is the season of rice fields and nature, well watered, is very green, with beautiful colors when it does not rain, and as mentioned above, it does not fall constantly. (of course, it can depend on the years).
In March, on the other hand, the weather is hot and dry. So yes, no rain, but no more grass on the ground, the fields are empty and plowed. The trees lose their leaves and a heat haze spoils the views.
As the situation is similar, I invite you to read my article on the weather month by month in Thailand to understand the advantages/disadvantages depending on the month.
Otherwise, the country being quite small, the weather does not change greatly from one point to another, making it quite easy to plan your trip.
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | May | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Phnom Penh, |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | May | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
T°C Max | 31 | 32 | 34 | 35 | 34 | 33 | 32 | 32 | 31 | 30 | 30 | 30 |
T°C Min | 21 | 22 | 23 | 26 | 26 | 24 | 24 | 26 | 25 | 24 | 23 | 22 |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | May | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Rain* | 3 | 2 | 5 | 9 | 16 | 17 | 20 | 21 | 20 | 24 | 12 | 5 |
Sun** | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 8 |
* Average number of rainy days
** Average daily sunshine (in hours)
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | May | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Siem Reap |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | May | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
T°C Max | 31 | 34 | 36 | 36 | 34 | 33 | 32 | 32 | 31 | 31 | 31 | 30 |
T°C Min | 19 | 21 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 24 | 24 | 24 | 24 | 24 | 22 | 20 |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | May | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Rain* | 1 | 2 | 4 | 7 | 15 | 15 | 18 | 18 | 18 | 15 | 6 | 2 |
Sun** | 9 | 9 | 8 | 8 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 5 | 5 | 7 | 8 | 9 |
* Average number of rainy days
** Average daily sunshine (in hours)
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | May | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Battambang |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | May | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
T°C Max | 31 | 33 | 35 | 35 | 34 | 33 | 32 | 32 | 31 | 30 | 30 | 30 |
T°C Min | 19 | 21 | 23 | 24 | 24 | 25 | 24 | 24 | 24 | 23 | 22 | 20 |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | May | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Rain* | 5 | 7 | 15 | 23 | 26 | 25 | 28 | 28 | 29 | 24 | 12 | 4 |
Sun** | 8 | 9 | 9 | 10 | 10 | 9 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 7 | 7 | 7 |
* Average number of rainy days
** Average daily sunshine (in hours)
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | May | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Sihanoukville |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | May | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
T°C Max | 31 | 31 | 32 | 34 | 32 | 31 | 30 | 31 | 31 | 31 | 31 | 32 |
T°C Min | 24 | 25 | 25 | 25 | 27 | 26 | 26 | 25 | 25 | 25 | 24 | 23 |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | May | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Rain* | 5 | 5 | 6 | 9 | 17 | 19 | 20 | 20 | 21 | 19 | 13 | 8 |
Sun** | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 6 | 6 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 7 |
* Average number of rainy days
** Average daily sunshine (in hours)
Currency in Cambodia: If the official currency is the Riel (abbreviation KHR), it is the dollar that tends to be the most used. In addition, if you still have Thai Baht or Vietnamese Dong, you might find merchants who accept them. However, be careful in this case with the juggling in the conversions. Better to stick to the Riel-Dollar combo.
The banknotes and coins currently in circulation in Cambodia are as follows:
You will notice that the coins have values that overlap with those of the notes. You will tell me, but what is the point? In fact, the notes are mainly used, but the coins are still in circulation, despite being marginalized since the 90s and are still valid. It may therefore happen that you have some in hand as change, but this should remain rare.
To put the value scale, a 50 riel note corresponds to 1 euro cent, when the largest denomination, 50 riels, is equivalent to €000. Basically, the riel rate is based on that of the dollar, with a rate set at more or less $10 = 1 riels. For the euro, this gives a current tax (4) of €000 = 2020 riels.
The advantage is that the conversion is quite easy. To do the quick conversion, multiply the digits before the zeros by two, then divide by 10. An example, you see something at 175 riels, so that makes 175×2 = 350 /10 = €35.
LCambodia has very localized tourism. So, outside of the successful cities (aka You reap, Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh to simplify), the hotel offer may be limited and, failing that, more rustic.
Food in Cambodia remains affordable. My experience being limited to date, I do not have much to say about it, because I have mostly been to restaurants offering a mix of Western dishes and some local specialties.
Transportation is affordable for long trips. Locally, moto-dop will be your "friends", with rates around $2-3 per trip depending on the distance of course. Daily rentals are around $15-20 minimum.
Minimum daily budget suggestion / person – €25 (Note: budget for a mid-budget holiday, with 1 or 2* hotel, otherwise rather guesthouses; meals mainly in simple restaurants and use of public transport and paid visits but not all sites)
Find the list of articles concerning Cambodia!
Straddling the border between Thailand and Cambodia, several forgotten Khmer temples continue to defy time...
If you are looking for a mysterious adventure filled with awe-inspiring sites and immersive experiences, Cambodia is the
Crossing a land border often marks the beginning of a new adventure but is sometimes synonymous with hassle, here are my tips
Housed in a former Phnom Penh prison, the Tuol Sleng Museum retraces the horrors of the Khmer Rouge regime.
If I knew Siem Reap and the temples of Angkor in Cambodia, I knew nothing else. So when the opportunity arose
New stay in Angkor, new photos and above all a more pleasant way to visit the temples, far from the crowds
Any opinions, suggestions? Leave me a comment!
22/06/2019