Phuket Town: Urban Escape in the Colorful Old Town

Discover a little-known side of Phuket: Phuket town, the largest city on the island, with its 50 inhabitants. While most travelers focus on the coconut trees, white sand beaches and turquoise waters, which can certainly characterize Phuket, far fewer imagine taking an urban break and daring to venture into the lively alleys of the old town. However, I have already shown you that Phuket is often overlooked and that few will really be interested in all these facets. But Phuket Town is a real gem that deserves to be explored.

With its historic streets, unique architecture and local vibe, the island's main town offers an interesting cultural experience. Let yourself be surprised by the charm of Phuket Town and discover why it is much more than just a stopover on the way to paradise beaches.

Understanding the history of Phuket

Phuket truly has a unique culture and an interesting history. Ever since the discovery of large tin deposits on the island in the 16th century, Phuket attracted the attention of colonial powers, as the mineral was in high demand. While Ayutthaya, the capital, was a cosmopolitan and international city, Phuket was mainly exploited by the Portuguese and then the Dutch, before being controlled by the French in the late 17th century.

Exasperated by what he saw as a plundering of resources, the king, combined with other internal events, expelled most of the foreigners and stopped the exploitation of the island for more than a century. At the end of the 18th century, the British Empire, dominating the Malay peninsula, took over the exploitations in Phuket.

In 1809, tin minerals were found at Baan Ket-ho, now known as Kathu, just north of what would become Phuket Town. The growing number of tin mines led to more and more Hokkien Chinese migrating to Phuket to work, like a gold rush.

View of a tin mine in Phuket in the early 20th century.

The government of the day found it convenient to set up a tax collection system. By the 1930s, Phuket had become unrecognizable. Nearly 300 lakes and huge craters riddled the island, while thousands of men plundered the beautiful countryside in search of as much tin as possible.

In 1963, the Thai Sarco Company was founded and set up the first tin smelting plant in Phuket. In 1967, another company, the Temco Company, applied for government permission to mine offshore, but Phuket residents protested. In 1973, the nascent Tourism Authority of Thailand announced its intention to develop Phuket into a major tourism center.

In 1975, the government cancelled all mining concessions for Temco and authorized the formation of the Phuket Tourism Business Club. As mining became less profitable and tourism in Thailand and Phuket in particular increased, the industry was eventually wiped out and by the 80s, all mining companies had closed down to make way for the tourism industry. Around this time, Bang Tao Bay was being rehabilitated and became what is now known as Laguna Phuket (see the before and after below to see how far we had come).

To learn more about the history of the island's mining past, there is a great museum a little way out of town towards Kathu, the Phuket Mining Museum, created in 2009 in a building inspired by the architecture of the Sino-Portuguese mansions that once dominated the island.

Why visit Phuket Old Town?

If you are wondering if Phuket Town is worth visiting, the answer is an absolute yes! When I first discovered it, while Phuket Town had already made efforts to showcase its architecture by getting rid of the cables, I really enjoyed the atmosphere and appreciated the charm of the old town. Phuket Town is worth visiting, if only to admire the colorful buildings or stop in an original cafe and take a breather, sheltered from the stifling heat of the day.

It has an appreciable relaxed side, the local traders are friendly and it is interesting to walk through the sometimes narrow streets to discover the vestiges of this past and the street art which perfectly adorns this rich cultural heritage of the city.

It was mainly the Chinese communities that mainly developed the part of the island now designated as the old town of Phuket. This is why Sino-Portuguese architecture predominates in its streets. Also known as Chinese Baroque, this eclectic style of architecture took off along the Malaysian coast and in Singapore, due in particular to the influence of the old Portuguese trading post of Malacca. Sino-Portuguese architecture encompasses a hybrid style incorporating elements of Chinese and Portuguese architectural styles giving these typical shops called "shophouses", these famous Chinese stalls where typically the store is located downstairs while the owners live upstairs.

As you will have understood, the main attraction of Phuket Town for me lies in its architecture. Unlike many provincial towns that have often lost their historic houses and thereby their charm, not to say a part of their soul... Below you have the comparison between Phuket in 1908 and today.

But Phuket Town is not just about its architecture. It is also a cultural hub where different traditions and influences come together. The town is home to a vibrant Chinese community that celebrates the annual Vegetarian Festival, a nine-day period marked by processions, rituals and vegetarian dishes. It is a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in local culture and customs, sample delicious food and watch traditional performances.

By exploring Phuket Town, you will discover a lesser-known side of the island, far from the hustle and bustle of the tourist beaches. It is a small town so it is far from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. The opportunity to immerse yourself in the history, culture and daily life of the inhabitants. Enjoy a gray afternoon (or not) and take the time to visit Phuket Town and let yourself be seduced by its unique charm and warm atmosphere. Well, said like that, it sounds like a text from a tourist brochure but it is still my impression and I really enjoyed exploring the old town.

Exploring the iconic streets of Phuket Town

The old town is compact enough to explore on foot. You can come across shops, museums, picturesque cafes and of course restaurants and something to recharge your batteries between 2 streets. If we have to remember the streets to see, we can summarize like this:

Zone 1 (in red): Yaowarat Road
Zone 2 (in pale blue): Dibuk Road
Zone 3 (in green): Krabi Road, Thalang Road and Soi Rommanee
Zone 4 (yellow): Phang Nga Road
Zone 5 (gray): Ranong Road and Ratsada Road

Here is a map of old Phuket Town to help you understand:

Yaowarat Road: The main north-south axis divides the old city into two areas, west and east. It is near the roundabout separating Ranong and Ratsada streets that there is an old mansion, the Limpanon House. I did not see it and for good reason, it is hidden behind the facades of the shops along Yaorawat. You can get there if the gate crossing the building in front is open.

It was along this artery that we stopped one evening to have a dessert (which did not survive the covid…). It was also there, at the corner of Thalang Road that we tested the coffee at “The Old Phuket Coffee station” with its retro atmosphere.

Dibuk Road: There are some visually interesting buildings there, you have the old Luang Amnart Nararak Mansion, a bit abandoned unfortunately. Another notable building, the one at the corner of Dibuk Road and Yaowarad Road (indicated on Google Maps by "Ancient buildings in Sino-European style"), this is the former headquarters of the mining company Kian Nguan. Just opposite, there is a food court, this time at the corner of the street with Yaowarat, the Lock Tien – Phuket Local Food Center, active for no less than 50 years!

On the other side of the road, still following Dibuk, you will come across the fresco dedicated to the late King Rama 9. Not far away, you will come across the main Buddhist temple of Phuket Town, the Wat Mongkol Nimit.

In addition to the facades lining this street, two notable restaurants attract attention. First, there is “The Charm Phuket”, a restaurant established in a century-old shophouse. Its unique setting and traditional ambiance make it an interesting place to discover. Then, there is Raya House, housed in a two-story wooden house. If you are looking for an authentic atmosphere, surrounded by wooden walls and period tiles, Raya House will seduce you. However, we can’t say that we were really enthusiastic about the dishes despite this picturesque setting.

Soi Rommanee (also spelled Romani or Romanee): This small street connects Thalang Road to the south and Dibuk Road to the north. It is THE most famous street in Phuket Town, already because it is one of the oldest but also because it is clearly photogenic and therefore a privileged spot for Instagram lovers. However, we find the same colorful facades as elsewhere but the narrowness of the street adds a little something, like a more intimate corner.

In the background, you can see Wat Mongkol Nimit on the Dibuk Road side, and on the other side you have a small square on the corner of the street with Thalang Road where there are several murals. It is not for nothing that several small guesthouses have been established in this area and also several cafes and even ice cream parlors.

Thalang Road: After Soi Rommanee, this is probably the most charming street in old Phuket. It is also the main artery and we will spend the most time there during our two visits. We came across by chance a kind of shopping arcade "The Oasis Thalang", established in a long Chinese house. Otherwise, there is a beautiful continuous line of colorful Sino-Portuguese style shops, with many fabric and clothing stores, souvenirs, local crafts and of course, a choice of small cafes and restaurants (the best known being the China Inn Café & Restaurant, established in a superbly renovated shop).

All this makes Thalang Road the liveliest street in Phuket Town. And there's even more entertainment on Sunday nights. The street is then closed to traffic from 16pm to 22pm to make way for the night market, the Phuket walking street (Lard Yai in Thai) where you can find the "traditional" stands of local products and street food to nibble on. It is also in this corner, almost at the corner of Thalang Street and Phuket Road that we tested the famous "roti" from the south at Roti Taew Nam.

Krabi Road: Following Thalang Road is Krabi Road. On this street you will find several small cafes one of which we tried, Campus Coffee Roasters. There are also several mansions further away, each of which can be visited in a different way. The first one is a museum, the Phuket Thai Hua Museum, which traces the history of Phuket. Housed in a British-colonial style building dating from 1934 (which was once the oldest Chinese language school in Phuket), it was renovated a few years ago.

Initially little used, it is today a fairly complete museum on the history of the Chinese people in Phuket and its festivals, like this room explaining the reason for the famous Phuket vegetarian festival which started in 1825. We did not visit it due to lack of time, but be aware that the entrance fee is 200 Baht, it is a bit expensive, but the worst is to also charge the right to take photos for an additional 200 Baht...

Further you find the imposing mansion “Blue Elephant Mansion”, now serving as a restaurant and a great place to learn Thai cooking. It used to be the home of the governor of Phuket, whoever that is. If you walk past it you will only see the driveway leading to it and the large garden in front, to really enjoy it you would have to go there for dinner.

Finally, the last interesting residence, the Chin Pracha House. Also paying 150 Bahts for entry, this old house dates from 1903. You can only visit the first floor, and for good reason, the Chinpracha family, originally from the Fujian region of China, still lives there and therefore has their quarters on the second floor.

View of the back of the Phuket Thai Hua Museum

Phang Nga Road: This was our starting point since it was on this very street that we stayed the first time. And not just anywhere… If I say “The Beach”, the film, Leo in his shabby room at the beginning of the film? Well, it was in On On Hotel (in Chinese “On On”, which could also be written as “Un Un” means “joy for all visitors), in the heart of Phuket Town.

It was in 1929 that a tin merchant had the idea of ​​establishing a hotel for new arrivals. Built by an architect arriving from Penang (we can easily understand why the architecture is similar to Georgetown). There were only 5 rooms at the beginning, and through extensions, it had up to 49 at its peak! Completely renovated from 2012, it reopened in 2013 under the name of The memory at on on hotel, and needless to say, it has nothing to do with the filthy hotel in the film. On the contrary, it's superb, retro atmosphere, well-preserved building, top location, and even the price is very reasonable (starting at €32)

Just opposite our hotel, you can also notice an imposing building, which turns out to be a Kasikorn bank. It is modern but superbly made in a style that takes up the codes of colonial architecture so as not to distort the area.

The Kasikorn Bank building on Phang Nga Road.

The other notable place is a rather discreet Chinese shrine, located a few meters from the hotel, the Shrine of Serene Light (it sounds very strange in English…). Behind a beautiful Chinese gate that you can't miss (not far from the intersection with Yaowarat Road), guarded by 2 Chinese lions, you will see a paved path leading to a courtyard where the shrine is located, wedged between the buildings around it.

Finally, it is at the crossroads of Phang Nga Road and Phuket Road that you will find the famous Museum Phuket. The museum is composed of two buildings facing each other. On one side, you have the Phuket Nagara (formerly the local police station), recognizable by its clock, it is truly an iconic structure of the city that has become a bit of its emblem. In its latest, we tell you via photos and exhibitions, the history of the founding of the city of Phuket through 4 eras of development of the city (era of the forest, era of the mine, era of the city, era of tourism).

Opposite is the Peranakannitat (identified by the term Phuket Baba Museum on Google Maps), a former bank, where the history of the life and cultures of the inhabitants of Phuket, the Hokkiens, but also the Peranakans, another Chinese ethnic group to have participated in the development of the island's economy, is exhibited.

Ranong Road and Ratsada Road: These are two streets in the south of Phuket Town, which meet at the Suriyadej Circle roundabout, which also connects with Yaowarad Road. I will spend less time on these two streets, because we did not really go through them. Among other things, because they are less interesting in terms of architecture. This is still where the bus terminal is located, so you might have to go through it. Among other things, you will find the Phuket Town Central Market (a covered market), further on you can see the offices of the Thai Airways company, which are located in a superb renovated Sino-Portuguese residence (Thai Airways Heritage house). Finally, it is along Ranong Road that you can visit the most important Chinese sanctuary on the island, Jui Tui Shrine, at the heart of the festivities during the famous vegetarian festival (see below).

There was also an unusual museum, the Thavorn Museum, which allowed you to see a whole collection of toys, tools, photos and various objects collected by the owner of the hotel of the same name, the Thavorn Hotel, a hotel which unfortunately did not survive the covid years...

The Suriyadej Circle roundabout.

Phuket Town at night

If you don't want to miss a minute of sun at the beach during the day, don't discover Phuket Town at night! In addition to enjoying more pleasant temperatures, you will see the illuminations highlighting the colorful facades of old Phuket.

You can kill two birds with one stone by going there on Sunday to see the Thalang Road night market as mentioned above.

Phuket Town Street Art

In Phuket Town, there are at least a dozen of them that you can see, they are of different sizes and styles. They range from abstract to funny little scenes. They also evolve. On this map listing the main paintings (we notice that they are mainly concentrated around Phang Nga Road), I have updated the painting on Dibuk (upper left corner), which now represents a fresco in homage to the late King Rama IX.

If you are curious, it encourages you to wander around a bit randomly through the different arteries in order to find different murals, a principle that I loved in Penang where you can come across a good number of Street Art in George Town, the main city of the Malaysian island.

This is a principle that is becoming fashionable since I have also been able to see some Ipoh in Malaysia but also in Thailand, I was able to see some of them in the Lampang old town for example as well as to Page in the south of the country.

You will find several at the corner of Thalang and Rommanee streets, a little hidden now, because a building was built where there used to be a kind of square (fortunately, the construction respects the local architecture so it does not detract from the nature). The most famous of them feature the famous character that has become the trademark of a street artist known here, Alex Face.

Phuket Town Vegetarian Festival

The final argument to convince you to visit Phuket Town is that it is here that the famous Vegetarian Festival takes place every year. For nine days and nine nights, Chinese communities in Thailand and throughout Southeast Asia adopt a vegetarian diet as part of the 9 Emperor Gods Festival. This deeply spiritual festival is known for its impressive processions where participants engage in intense rituals to demonstrate their faith.

People in a trance state can be seen stabbing themselves in the body and mouth with picks, swords, and other objects, or even walking on hot coals. It's a fascinating spectacle that I've never had the opportunity to witness, but it's important to note that this show can be quite intense and may not be recommended for children or the faint-hearted.

Phuket Vegetarian Festival (wikimedia image)

The Vegetarian Festival also takes place all over Phuket Island as there are several Chinese shrines spread across the island, but it is in Phuket Town that the excitement reaches its peak. The spectacular processions are organized from the various Chinese temples in the city including the main one mentioned above, Jui Tui Shine, located off Ranong Road.

This colorful and spiritual festival takes place around October, although the exact date varies each year depending on the lunar calendar. Before planning your visit, it is recommended to find out the exact date of the festival. This will give you the opportunity to experience the vibrant celebrations and fascinating rituals that mark this special time.

Practical guide to Phuket Town

To summarize a little, here is what you need to remember:

How to get to Phuket Town

• By local bus: there are local buses that run between the different main beaches on the island, allow a journey time of around 30 minutes to 1 hour depending on your starting point.
• By Taxi: Taxis are also available to take you to Phuket Town. Make sure to agree on a price with the driver before departure.
• By scooter or rental car: If you prefer to explore the island independently, renting a scooter or car is a convenient option. The city is pretty well signposted, otherwise there's always your good friend the GPS. However, keep in mind that traffic can be heavy and busy in Phuket Town, so it's important to be vigilant on the road.

Where to eat in Phuket Town

• Raya: traditional cuisine in an old house, it doesn't look like much but it's a famous restaurant, you might find better dishes than us. Don't hesitate to try it and let me know about your experience!
• Roti Taew Nam: "Rotis" are a kind of pancake, which can be had more generally as a dessert in Thailand, but which is also served as a dish in its own right with vegetables and meat inside and it is very good too.
• China Inn Café & Restaurant: cozy retro atmosphere for classic Thai dishes.
• Kopitiam by Wilai: a restaurant with a very nice setting on Thalang Road with a very good reputation.

Where to sleep in Phuket Town

The question may arise whether to sleep there if the next day you plan to take a bus to another destination or plan to take a ferry from the main port of Chalong. Phuket Town is also well located to reach each of the main beaches on the island. Tested by me:

- The memory at on on hotel : as mentioned in the article, this is the latest hotel tested to date, the one featured in the film The Beach. Budget: €50/night (€30 in low season and up to €90 in high season!)

- Sino House Hotel : it was a long time ago, but not only is it still there, which is already a good sign, it also has a good reputation and has recently undergone a nice renovation. It is not far from the corner of Suthat Street, where it is located, and Dibuk Road, mentioned in this article. Budget: €35 / night

My opinion on Phuket Town

In short, Phuket Town offers a unique perspective on the island, revealing a historical legacy that shaped its beginnings as a major tourist destination in Thailand. If you are interested in history and architecture, a day spent here is a great opportunity to discover this side of Phuket.

The city is full of cute cafes (often good ones too), restaurants with excellent food and a local or stylish atmosphere, your choice. The city offers a calmer atmosphere compared to some of the island's beach resorts (e.g. Patong). Its bright colors add an undeniable charm. In conclusion, in my opinion, skipping Phuket Town during a stay on the island would be as regrettable as not visiting the country's capital, Bangkok.

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