Why visit India?

I think we could write a novel on this question, or, failing that, an entire thesis on the particularity of a trip to this country. multiethnic, which fascinates as much as it can repel.

India is a jumble of flavors, colors, smells. It is an ode to life, to death. It is joy alongside sadness, a land full of age-old treasures, breathtaking nature.

Second most populous country in the world (behind China), a people who are generally very welcoming (see too much), smiling. The Republic of India gained independence from the United Kingdom in 1947, gradually becoming a rapidly growing industrialized country, but with great disparities. It is a country rich in culture, populated by many ethnic groups, languages ​​and religions including the majority, Hinduism.

India is also the country of Bollywood, the largest film industry in the world. India is the birthplace of Buddhism and a spiritual land par excellence. 

It is a large country in South Asia, and we have only just scratched the surface of all the splendor it has to offer. It can be heard being described as "difficult" for the traveler, as one is confronted with a kind of raw poverty/dirt. At least, this is particularly true in the northern part of the country. But how vast and very reductive it is to limit oneself to this image.

Here is a summary of some essential information to know before any trip to India.

Whatever your case, it's a big YES. But since 2015, the Indian authorities have set up a visa-on-arrival system, called "e-Tourist visa". The latter greatly simplifies the process, although in the process, the price of the visa has also increased significantly.

How to get your e-visa for India

This “e-visa” must be requested online using the official website: https://indianvisaonline.gov.in/visa/tvoa.html

You must fill in the requested information and pay the application fee, which is currently $ 80. You will then need to upload your identity documents to complete this formality. Namely:

Make sure you have at least three blank pages, two of which are facing each other. It is also important to specify that you must have a return ticket proving that you left the country within the allotted time.

Obtaining the e-visa limits your entry into India to the relevant immigration points., namely 28 airports (see list below) and 5 ports (Mumbai, Mormugao, Cochin, Goa and New Mangalore). This implies that you cannot arrive by land with an e-visa. If you want to enter India from a neighbouring country (allowing an international immigration pass), you will have to apply for a regular visa (Ex. if you are arriving from Nepal via Sonauli).

On the other hand, there are obviously no restrictions on exiting by land with an e-visa.

Another piece of good news is that you can apply up to 120 days (4 months) before your arrival (compared to only 30 days previously). Finally, since March 2019, it allows you to stay for a maximum of 90 days (compared to 60 before). The e-visa is valid for one year.

There are now no limits on the number of entries and the number of e-visa applications per year. Also, there is no minimum time limit to be respected between two e-visas, which allows an extended visit to the country quite easily.

When should you apply for a “classic” visa?

As mentioned above, the e-visa has some constraints that sometimes make it necessary to apply for a proper "old-fashioned" visa. There are 3 cases where the traditional visa will have to be applied for. If you are not in any of these three cases, opt for the e-visa which is cheaper and easier to obtain. The cases being:

• If you enter by land
• If you are staying in India for more than three months at a time
• If you enter the country more than three times

Le visa can be valid for 3 months, 6 months or 1 year. It can be single, double or multiple entry. Regardless of the type, each stay cannot exceed 90 days.

In all cases, the price is 105 € (ouch). There is also a multiple entry version valid for 5 years, as its issuance remains exceptional, it must be confirmed by the Embassy before you can submit your application. Its price is also higher since this visa will then be €200.

Obtain the “ordinary” visa before your departure to India

If you start heading to your nearest Indian consulate or embassy, ​​forget it. For several years now, visa applications have been managed by a private organization, VFS Global.

The request can be made through one of its offices. In France, you have them in Paris, Marseille, Lyon, Strasbourg and Bordeaux.

The required documents are as follows:

• Original passport valid for a minimum of 6 months (or for the desired duration if longer) with at least 3 blank pages (including two side by side)
• A photocopy of the passport data page
• Two photographs conforming to the standards of the Government of India as mentioned on the website (photographic standards section)
  • Please note: photos taken in automatic machines deployed on French territory are not compatible
  • Your photos must be stuck on your form: the first in the frame provided on page 1, the second at the bottom right of page 2
  • Please note that Indian standard compatible machines are available at VFS Global offices in Paris and Marseille.
• A copy of the Government of India's online visa application form (To download here)
• Your form must be signed on page 1 under the photograph. This signature will be scanned and must match the signature of your
  passport.
• You must validate your data as well as the declaration on page 2 by affixing your signature at the bottom of page 2
• Declaration form duly completed and signed by each applicant and available in the “Download forms” section. (One parent for a minor child)
• Additional documents depending on your case

To see all the information and download the forms

If you cannot physically go to one of the offices, it is possible to apply by mail. In this case, you will have to add €25 to the visa fee.

If you are not in France because you are already traveling, you can also find centers in some countries. This is particularly the case in Thailand with an office in Bangkok here:

Indian Visa and Consular Application Center

36/28, PS Tower, 10 Floor,Soi 21, Sukhumvit,
Klong Toey Nua, Dist., Wattana, Bangkok 10110

The submission of documents is made between 08:30 a.m. and 14:00 p.m. (Monday to Friday excluding public holidays).

The passport collection is then carried out between 16:30 p.m. and 17:30 p.m. only (also Monday to Friday except public holidays).

There is also an office in Chiang Mai (see info to get Indian visa in Thailand).

The demand differs slightly compared to to if you do it from your home country. In this case, you will need to provide the following documents:

• Original passport valid for a minimum of 6 months (or for the desired duration if longer) with at least 2 blank pages (side by side)
• Not one but TWO photocopies of the passport data page + page of your current Thai visa
• Two colour photographs conforming to Indian Government standards (2 inches x 2 inches) less than 3 months old.
• A copy of the Government of India's online visa application form (To download here)
• A copy of the Bangkok specific reference form (To download here)
• If applicable: a photocopy of your previous visa for India, copy of your Work Permit if you are working in Thailand
• Your planned itinerary and name of the agency if you have one
• Photocopy of your flight (arrival and exit from Indian territory)
• Photocopy of your hotel reservations for at least the first 2 weeks of your stay (yes, that’s annoying…)

If you want to simplify the process, there are independent organizations that can help you, but this obviously requires a supplement. You can look at action-visas or with ivisa.

Delivery time

It takes an average of 6 working days to obtain your visa (this is the case from Bangkok). In the centre of Paris, outside peak periods (January, February, May, June and October), the time may be shorter (4 or 5 days) but generally speaking, allow up to 10 days to obtain the precious sesame.

If you make your request by mail, please add an additional 10 days. It is possible to obtain an emergency visa for the next day, but this can only be obtained with supporting documents. (medical emergency, death, etc.) and only from the center VFS of Paris. In addition, this exceptional procedure costs €60 in addition to the price of the normal visa.

Coming to India

Depending on your area of ​​visit, you will be spoiled for choice regarding your landing point. From France, you will have the most choice by direct flight with the national airline, Air India.

A flight from Paris to New Delhi is normally less than €600 in this case. If you don't mind a stopover before arriving in India, you have flights from €360 with Oman Air.

From the cafe/lounge at Mumbai airport, waiting for my flight to Calcutta.

Note that depending on your final destination in India, you may have to stopover in Delhi or Mumbai before continuing. This is the case, for example, if you are going to Goa or Kolkata.

To help you, here is an interactive map to locate the different international airports allowing arrival with an e-visa:

Getting around in India

With its impressive network of more than 67 kilometers, India is undoubtedly the country of the train. It's quite simple, throughout our stay, all the long journeys were made by train. But let's still see in detail the different means of transport available across the country.

To give you an idea of ​​the extent of the railway network in India, and again, it is old, so it has still evolved.

Road transport

I can't speak from experience too much, but this is the fruit of my research in writing this page. First of all, on site, the roads and streets, you should know that it is often anarchy. So the idea of ​​renting a car is really at your own risk… Even as an experienced driver in Thailand, I did not dare to drive in India.

It's messy, it's chaotic, there's honking everywhere, there's overtaking in all directions. In short, it's India. Afterwards, I remain convinced that it is not the same everywhere. Things surely change over time too.

Yet there is plenty to do, with more than 5 million kilometers of roads, making India the 2nd largest road network in the world!

A good overview of the different vehicles you encounter on the roads in India.

The buses

Assuming that your destination is not covered by the train or that the train's timetable is not compatible with your travel schedule, the bus remains a solution.

From what I've seen, the routes are limited to a few cities and from the booking sites I've tested, it's hard to find the routes I wanted. When testing a Kolkata – Varanasi route, the only apparently reliable site that allows this is Red Bus: https://www.redbus.in/

In this case, the journey takes 16 hours by bus for a cost of 750 ₹ (around €10), so it's not the best example since it's more expensive and longer than the train...

A well-loaded local bus passed in Bodhgaya.

If you are traveling in the state of Uttar Pradesh, a reliable company is UPSRTC (Uttar Pradesh State Road Transport Corporation). For example, there are Varanasi – Agra buses starting from 800 ₹ (double if VIP bus).

You can make reservations online via their website: https://www.upsrtconline.co.in/

Taxis

We naively thought that English was quite widespread in India and that taking a taxi would therefore be quite easy. This was not the case in Calcutta… We had a hard time making the taxi driver understand where he was going. (a hotel booked in advance) and the latter, while initially he wanted to take us to a spot of his, had to stop and ask people where it was. He ended up dropping us off nearby without dropping us off in front.

In short, it was a bit of a struggle. The only positive point was the fact of having experienced the legendary cars. Ambassador, the city's yellow taxis.

Inside a famous yellow taxi leaving Calcutta airport.

Taxis waiting outside Howrah railway station in Kolkata.

The daily catch to date is 30 ₹, officially. Then count ₹15 per kilometer. Note that there is an additional airport pick-up charge, normally ₹100.

If you want a reliable taxi service in Kolkata, you have this site. Alternatively, you can use Uber, and the local version, Ola which you can download the app here.

Tuk tuk, rickshaw etc.

If we take the most local version, it is by rickshaw (kind of bicycle rickshaw) that you will move, or else with the unspeakable tuk tuk. For example, we took the latter between the station of Style et Bodhgaya, , 10 km away. It only cost us 150 ₹. At that price, it's actually a tuk tuk sharing. So other people were hailing him on the road and they were piling up next to the driver especially, because with the two of us behind, that doesn't leave much extra space.

In a shared tuk tuk.

The advantage also of tuk tuk, is that it can be rented for the day or half-day, allowing you to see several sites without worrying about negotiating a price individually. We did that at Varanasi  to combine visits to the fort Ramnagar and the Hindu University of Benares (Banaras Hindu University), we had 800 ₹ for 4 hours of services (it remains expensive I think, but we are not very good negotiators, given the average salary in India, we say to ourselves that we give a boost shoot).

It was possible to rent a tuk tuk before covid to get around Kerala but the company offering this has unfortunately stopped (knowing that it is based in Sri Lanka, this service is still available for this country, see here if ever)

On a rickshaw in Varanasi.

The rickshaw finally, it is the non-motorized version of the tuk tuk. The prices are rough and it varies greatly. Wanting to please, we took a rickshaw just to go 700 m between our place of accommodation in Bodhagaya and the temple of the mahabodhi, it was 40 ₹. For another 1 km journey between our hotel in Varanasi  and  Ghat the closest (Assi Ghat), we only paid 20 ₹.

To get from our hotel, set back south to the city centre, we paid 110 ₹ for less than 4 km. With all this, it gives you an idea of ​​the prices.

To rent a taxi for the day, we did it in Bodhgaya to do the visits to Rajgir and the ruins of Nalanda University, it cost us 3 ₹ (a little less than €40). This seemed reasonable to us since it is more than 160 km round trip (and a full day).

Rail transport

I mentioned it in intro, it is the transport par excellence in India. Finally, par excellence in the sense of choice. After that it remains similar to the train service in Thailand. Namely, fairly slow trains, not uncomfortable, but still quite rustic.

It remains the ideal means of transport to cover long distances. On a night train, you will benefit from couchettes (4 per compartment), allowing you to rest and arrive relatively fresh the next day.

You can book through the official website of Indian Railways: https://www.irctc.co.in/nget/

However, check the name of the stations carefully beforehand, because if you type the city, you may not find it in the drop-down list. For example, look for howrah for Calcutta and not the city Kolkata, for Goa it is Vasco Da Gama, etc.

The prices remain reasonable, with for example a Howrah (Kolkata) – Gaya at 1 ₹ (around €080) for a 14 hour journey.

I was, I must say, pleasantly surprised, because I was expecting crowded, noisy, hot trains. Nothing of that. Everyone is in their bunk, people, having arrived at bedtime, were reasonable and there was air conditioning (almost too cold, thanks to the blanket provided for the night). I am of course talking about the class we took, 2nd class.

Basically the classes of trains are divided as follows:

• • • 1A – AC First Class: The most expensive tickets, air conditioning, 4 berths per cabin, and even 2 berths possible for couples. You have a reading lamp, a closed, carpeted cabin with a basin for rinsing your hands. Blankets, sheets, towels and cushions provided.
    • 2A – AC 2 Tier: This is the class we used. The bunks are 4 plus 2 in the corridor. The 4-bunk area is separated from the corridor by a curtain. There is air conditioning and a reading lamp. The blankets, sheets, towels and cushions provided. in the evening before going to bed.
    • 3A – AC 3 Tier: dIn this case, there are 6 berths distributed per compartment. So no more people and no lamp, no curtain separating the corridor, but there's even though the air conditioning and openings, sheets, towels and cushions provided.
    • SL – Sleeper: The most popular class. Apart from taking the seats for the night (which are not even offered by default when booking online), this is the cheapest option to sleep on a train in India. But in this case, it's no air conditioning, no curtains, 6 berths and no sheets etc provided.

On the other hand, the management of stations is specific to India, namely chaotic. If at howrah, the main railway station in Calcutta was fine (you will have the possibility of calling on porters ready to serve you to carry your bag from the arrival of the taxis to your quai), this was less the case elsewhere.

À Style for example, when we were then leaving for Varanasi , we were stressed about missing our train. Because the display was manual, we had to wait for the paper to arrive with our names marked to confirm that we were on a particular train and, above all, on which platform it would arrive. And usually it happens at the last moment...

Snot to mention that moving from one platform to another can be an obstacle course as there are so many people (people pile up on the ground waiting for their train, due to lack of place). The stop at the station was quite short, so it was important not to miss it.

Metro level:

There is currently only one operational line in Kolkata, serving the city on a north-south axis via 24 stations. Several other lines are currently in construction corridors, but I have not found any dates for their possible openings.

Depending on the distance, fares range from just ₹5 to ₹25 per trip (to consult the prices and information). There is also a card system to avoid having to take out cash every time. On the other hand, avoid rush hours because it's hell. No one will let you out if you are stuck in the middle of the carriage, you literally have to swim in the crowd, stop the door from closing because the driver doesn't care to wait, I lost my temper and after getting out, while blocking the door, I had to pull Jitima by the arms to get her out...

In Calcutta, there is also a old rustic tram (operational since 1880!) which still runs in the center. If you haven't tried it, it can be an original way to get around the city. The fare is given in addition, 6 Rs if less than 4 km, 7 Rs if more. It is also the only tramway in all of India.

For metro, there are also some in Hyderabad, Delhi and Jaipur.

Air transport

Given the distances to be covered, taking the plane can quickly turn out to be a good idea, even if it will inevitably be less expensive than the train, but oh so beneficial. For example, it takes no less than 39 hours by train to travel from Delhi to Goa. So yes, it will only cost you €40 but what a hassle…

Sunrise during my visit to Mumbai.

By plane, you will find flights in this case from just €60 for only 2h40 of travel. Among the local companies, you have these:

• Air India, the national airline, giving the right to 20 kg of baggage by default on internal flights
• Air India Express, low cost subsidiary of the national airline, more for regional flights (not much choice)
• Spicy Jet, local low-cost company but with 15 kg of checked baggage possible by default
• Go Air, another low-cost Indian airline
• IndiGo, also a low-cost Indian airline, with 15 kg baggage allowance for internal flights
• Vistara, latest born companies, the result of a partnership between the TATA group and Singapore Airlines, it is a more company expensive because of higher standards.

Note that Jet Airways, the Indian subsidiary of Etihad Airways, eventually went bankrupt, which is why, despite being the largest private airline in the country, it is not on this list. However, it was the only one tested during my stay, between Mumbai and Calcutta…

India is probably the country where we have slept in places with the most extreme differences. From the remaining decent eatery to Kolkata passing through a temple without a blanket, sleeping on a board and ending up in a beautiful 3* hotel... You will have understood, you can find everything.

You just have to put the right price and you can find perfectly decent rooms. The best value for money we had was the Rahul Guest House in Varanasi with 21€ per room.

The best room we got was on the way back to Kolkata at €66 per night. Fortune House. When I speak of a "boui-boui" for the first hotel in Calcutta, it was The Esplanade Chambers Hotel. The latter remained correct overall, but remained expensive given the service. The elevator leading there was scary and only one seat was available… The room was slightly damp and not exactly clean, although, considering India, we thought it was OK.

For Bodhgaya, if you are interested, you can sleep at Beauty Guest House which has a good reputation (and guards it). If you are not demanding and are accompanied by Thais, it is possible to stay for free at the main Thai temple if there are places available.

Basically, to have a decent single room, you need to at least count on the 20-25 €. Below that, you shouldn't be too careful. For big budgets, however, there are some legendary hotels in India. I am thinking in particular au Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai.

Do I need travel insurance?

We often try to go away to have fun, without spending too much. Insurance therefore tends to be skipped, due to lack of budget but also lack of knowledge. Because travel insurance, especially if you are going to Asia for several months, can be more than welcome in the event of a problem, as the default insurance on credit cards is limited.

The maximum amount for healthcare costs covered by traditional credit cards may prove insufficient (around €10 compared to €000 for dedicated travel insurance) and does not cover civil liability.

I advise you ACS Travel & Expatriation Insurance Solutions.

I would like to point out that if you subscribe to the insurance via the link, I will receive a small commission. This is a simple way to help keep the site running, because insurance is preferable anyway and it will therefore be beneficial for both you and me.

What vaccines and what do I need to know for my health?

Like many Asian countries, a series of vaccines, although not mandatory, are still recommended.

Recommended vaccine:

• HEPATITIS A

Depending on the conditions of the stay:

• HEPATITIS B
• RAGE
• JAPANESE ENCEPHALITIS
• TYPHOID

If you are staying on the side of Mumbai,  (Bombay) and Pune, cases of sometimes resistant tuberculosis are reported. A tuberculosis vaccine is not too much, but think Above all, for your hygiene, wash your hands frequently.

Against mosquitoes

The most important thing is to protect yourself with a good mosquito repellent, in India you would have to suffer from Dengue fever or the virus Zika. There is also a risk with the Chikungunya virus but it does not apply to all regions (Delhi, Kerala, Goa, Andhra Pradesh, Gujarat, Karnataka, Maharashtra, Orissa, Pondicherry).

And that's without counting malaria. The risks are lower in cities, but during the monsoon period from June to September, especially in the countryside, the increase in mosquitoes increases the risk. Preferably wear light-colored clothing.

If you are pregnant, it is better to postpone your stay, or failing that, discuss it with your doctor to avoid possible unfortunate consequences.

Hygiene conditions are generally quite good. rustic So even if it may seem obvious, there are some precautions to take, from a dietary point of view first:

• Wash your hands frequently before each meal (possibly with an antimicrobial solution since it is used without water).
• Tap water is not drinkable. Drink only capped bottled water or, if this is not possible, water boiled for 30 minutes and then filtered (Lifestraw straws can be an alternative).
• Avoid drinking fruit juices squeezed in the street. Avoid eating food from street stalls (well, this is an official recommendation, but if you are used to traveling, it is not necessarily worse than elsewhere).
• Meat and fish/shellfish must be well cooked before consumption (fish and shellfish should be avoided in the Delhi region between the end of March and the beginning of October due to the high heat and the risk of breaking the cold chain).

And general hygiene rules:

• Avoid swimming in stagnant water (risk of parasitic infection).
• Avoid walking barefoot on sand and wet ground.
• Do not pet animals you meet on the street, even if they do not seem aggressive.
• Remember to wear a seat belt (if possible), wear a helmet on two wheels, this is valid everywhere in the world.

Against pollution

India's major cities are unfortunately known to be among the most polluted in the world. As I write this, the air quality index in New Delhi, for example, exceeds 150 in all parts of the city.

In short, there are high concentrations of fine particles PM2.5 which are harmful to health if exposed for a long time, especially if you have sensitive respiratory tracts. This can cause inflammation of the respiratory tract, a reduction in breathing capacity leading to irritation, difficulty or even pain in breathing. Polluted air can also cause eye irritation and weaken the immune system.

To watch the daily rates in India, you will get everything on the AQICN website

To reduce the risks, in the event of prolonged pollution peaks, purchase N95 or FFP2 type filter masks.

High mountain hikes

If you plan to travel to mountainous areas, such as the Ladakh for example, it is recommended to exercise great caution if respiratory problems appear.

If you are not used to high altitude, your body needs to adjust. If you arrive directly by plane at Leh for example, which is at 3m, give yourself two/three days of acclamation and rest before going higher. Otherwise, go up by steps if you are arriving from the plain by car for example.

If you are planning a hike, do not go without a minimum of physical preparation. In case of breathing problems, it is advisable to descend to lower altitude areas and in any case not to continue the ascent.

For your safety

India is, overall, a relatively safe country, in which one can travel without great difficulty. But as everywhere, it is advisable to respect a certain number of rules and to be vigilant. In general, it is advisable:

• to keep your passport with you
• not to accept any packages from strangers (this goes without saying)
• to have a list of emergency numbers (see below).
• to notify the hotel and your families of planned trips

Well, here I am kindly transcribing the directives of the mother country. On the ground in the areas visited, we never really thought about doing all that... On the other hand, I must point out the visiting conditions if you are a woman.

Specific risks for women

You must unfortunately know that India is a country with the biggest problems with rape and violence against women, including foreigners, sometimes raped in front of their traveling companions.

Cases of sexual assault or harassment (including touching, inappropriate behavior, exhibitionism) are reported regularly. As a precaution, therefore, if you are a woman and what is more, if you are travelling alone in India, there are some precautions to take:

• prefer long, loose clothing with covered shoulders
• avoid walking alone in quiet areas, especially after dark (silent streets, including in big cities like Delhi; village alleys; beaches, etc.). Similarly, avoid finding yourself alone, as soon as night falls, with a taxi driver, hotel employee, guide, casual encounter if you do not have complete confidence in this person…

Here again, I am transcribing what the authorities say about it, they even talk about adopting a "restrained" behavior but it seems obvious to me not to play the pushy ones...

Many women who have travelled alone in India have had very good experiences. Others will have felt the insistent looks, etc. I think it depends on the region and everyone will have their own experience.

As I am a man, I had no problems, but having been with my wife on this trip, to my knowledge, she had no no worries in terms of interaction with the male gender.

Risks in transport

If we consider the ratio of number of vehicles to number of inhabitants, India is not that dangerous. (Thailand is doing much worse, currently being in the top 5, if not first outright). But the statistics are still alarming. Roughly, one fatal accident every four minutes. Every day, there are more than 1 accidents that cost the lives of 300 people across the country.

If available, put on your seat belts, even on a bus.

On the train, you have to be careful with your personal belongings (especially in a bunk) because thefts are quite frequent on the lines Benares-Delhi, Agra-Delhi, Calcutta-Benares et Calcutta-Puri. Having taken the Calcutta – Benares line (Varanasi ), I had put all my important things in a small bag, itself stuffed into my main backpack which was closed with a padlock.

To avoid being robbed, avoid drinking a drink offered by a stranger on public transport or elsewhere (particularly in Goa where this seems to be common in bars).

Scams, fraud and crime 

There are reports of gemstone scams in the regions of Rajasthan, Goa et Dharamshala. Also on the northern train line between Agra, Varanasi and Calcutta, pickpocketing, especially at stations, is regularly reported.

Keep your personal documents and money with you, preferably in an inside pocket. To book, prefer a station at the official train ticket office rather than an agency, some inflate the prices. Some touts might also mention a train cancellation to take you in a private taxi instead.

Overall it was an excellent reception for us.

Having taken our first tickets through our hotel in Calcutta, they still charged us 500 Rs of fees, which is 50% of the price of a ticket, I'm not saying it's a scam, but it's still a high commission.

À Delhi in particular, be wary of taxi drivers who start telling you that your hotel is actually closed or inaccessible.

I will ignore the advice related to the risks of natural disasters, because it is valid everywhere, note just that there is a seismic risk in the north of the country, that the monsoon can be violent, that certain coastal areas can be affected by cyclones (generally between April and December and more particularly from May to November).

Risk areas

Due to the instability of the borders in some areas of the country, it is not recommended to go there. This is particularly the case in the state of Jammu and Kashmir (Srinagar being its capital in winter, when in summer it is Jammu), bordering Pakistan.

It is an unstable area with occasional attacks and riots due to the demands for independence from part of the population. Here again, I am giving you the "Ministry of Foreign Affairs" version. In practice, tourists, especially Indians, go there in large numbers each season and are rarely targeted, and the military, numerous in the city. Concretely, the main attraction being the lake and its floating "houses", this visit is normally not very risky.

After the state's recommendation to avoid any risk to its citizens, if we look at the map, the whole of India is considered to be in a "heightened vigilance" zone.

I will end this chapter by mentioning New Delhi one last time, the capital. Avoid hotels in neighborhoods of paharganj et Nabi Karim, apparently become fearsome.

Practical information

– Emergency numbers –

• NATIONAL EMERGENCY NUMBER: 112
• POLICE: 100
• FIREFIGHTERS: 101
• AMBULANCE: 102
• Tourist line: 1363 or 1800111363
• Specific helpline for women: 1091

• Ministry of External Affairs website on India

If we can summarize all this succinctly, it looks like this on a map:

Any opinions, suggestions? Leave me a comment!