Why visit Japan?

Somewhere, when you look at "generic" photos illustrating Japan (Take the test by typing “japan photos”), we have the impression that apart from spring and the famous flowering of sakuras (a real custom in Japan, called “hanami”, literally, “looking at flowers”), or in autumn with the magnificent colours of the trees, Japan would be insipid… And while it is undeniable that these two seasons enhance the country and attract, it also means that many people go to the same spots and forget all the cultural and historical richness of this long-secluded country.

If theon put aside for a moment la Japanese cuisine and manga culture, we realize that Japan is fortunately much more than that. And that with a mixture of the sea, mountain and volcano, from giant urban centers like Tokyo to small villages like that of miyama, Japan offers a variety of landscapes and discoveries, certainly making it an attractive Asian country in more ways than one. Japan is an island country, an archipelago made up of more than 3 islands, which leaves plenty to explore.

The opportunity to try a unique stay in a ryokan, enjoying a good "onsen", a hot bath typical of the country. Experience one of the many festivals ("matsuri"), become a spectator of a sumo fight, hike in the Japanese Alps, marvel at the vibrant and frenetic Tokyo and empty your mind in the many temples and shrines of the archipelago and this gives you an idea of ​​the possibilities offered by Japan.

If I have to mention one of its main drawbacks right away, it is obvious that traveling in Japan is more expensive than in many other Asian countries on average. However, this is the price to pay to immerse yourself in a country with a unique character, between strong traditions and modernity and with a touch of "madness" of its own.

It's a country that has always made me "fantasize", growing up with Japanese series and animations, it marked a whole generation. Having tasted it, I immersed myself in other Japanese adventures, devouring the animated films of the Ghibli studio (among others), which sublimate and transcend their creative country in many examples. This attraction to Asia which has brought me to Thailand today is largely due to this attraction to Japan.

Its eventful history has left its mark on memories (not just that of a Geisha if you have the reference), and while many ancient temples and buildings have had to be rebuilt, many remain centuries old. Japan is particularly famous for its castles that always dominate the cities, like Himeji, one of the most beautiful, or that of Osaka, known worldwide. In Japan, the sobriety of the places contrasts with the beauty that can emerge from them. Japanese gardens, a true art in themselves, are a perfect illustration of this.

It is a country that we readily describe as Zen, a bit like its inhabitants, often discreet and respectful of traditions. Codes that are sometimes complex, making them an almost mysterious and misunderstood country in our eyes. In short, a lot of "fine words" and little concrete, but because I still have a lot to discover and if to date, my experience is limited to the areas around Kyoto and Osaka, I have no doubt about a future return to the land of the rising sun, even if it means paying the price.

Here is a summary of some essential information to know before any trip to Japan.

No. Passport holders French, Swiss, Canadian or even Tunisian - valid (valid on return date) – can stay without visa au Japan up to 90 days. Small difference for holders of a Belgian passport (lucky you), since you can stay on the archipelago without a visa for a period of less than or equal to 180 days. The only conditions for all, quite obvious, are to commit to not to carry out ANY paid activity on Japanese territory for the entire duration of the stay and provide proof ofa return flight in his country of origin.

Although cases may be rarer today, Japan accepts thenon-biometric passports to travel (if they are valid of course)

If, on the other hand, you are Algerian or Moroccan, it is necessary to obtain a visa in advance from the Japanese embassy in your country. See the information and documents required on their respective sites:

• For Algerians
• For Moroccans

And for a stay of more than 90 days in Japan?

For stay longer than 90 days, a visa is required and to request in advance. Depending on the approach, it is obvious that different types of visas will have to be requested. But since here, the blog is primarily focused on travel in the sense of leisure, I will not dwell on work visas.

In France, you will have to go to four cities where there is a Japanese embassy or consulate (I'll give you their respective websites, but be careful, it's a bit of a pain in the eyes, design worthy of the 90s...):

• Embassy of Japan in Paris
• Consulate General of Japan in Marseille
• Consulate General of Japan in Strasbourg
• Japanese Consular Office in Lyon

For general information, the following visas are distinguished outside of tourism:

• student visa for university exchanges or language stays of more than 3 months
• Work visa for foreigners exercising a profession on Japanese soil
• Cultural visa for people wishing to learn a traditional art
• Working holiday visa valid for young people under 30 who want to visit the country for a year while doing odd jobs

Since this last type of visa has a direct relation with "leisure" travel, I can detail a little the conditions of this popular visa (for the others, go to the visa section of the Japanese Embassy in France).

© MathieuMD / Wikimedia Commons

The working holiday visa, how does it work?

This is what is more commonly called the Working Holiday Visa (the famous PVT, also popular in countries like Canada or Australia). This type of visa allows you to stay in Japan for a maximum period ofyearThe main objective of the trip should remain touristic (that's why I'm talking about it), but its interest lies in the possibility of finance your trip having the right to to work. It is therefore an ideal solution to combine traveling across the country while earning pocket money.

Be careful though, because there are some rules and limits to know:

• OYou cannot accumulate more than 28 hours per week.
• There is a whole list of prohibited activities so-called "violating public morals" (according to criteria defined by Japanese immigration), for example small jobs in gaming rooms, bars, nightclubs, where alcohol flows freely (well, not gaming rooms but you get the idea)
• Finally, as the visa is quite a lot requested, there is a quota, set at 1 participants each year

With all this, there are of course special conditions to be completed in order to benefit from it. Starting with being an adult but also age less than 30 years on the date of filing of the application. You cannot make a request if you already have previously benefited from this type of visa for Japan (It is only possible to obtain a working holiday visa once for the same country). Assuming that you are a parent, under 30 years old, you will not be able to travel as a family with this visa because one of the conditions is not to have a dependent minor during the duration of the stay.

It is also necessary own a return flight to France, and havea minimum deposit of 3 100 euros on his bank account. One exception, however, if you do not plan a return flight to France (in the sense, do not want to take it on a specific date in advance), it is still possible to apply for a PVT but you must then provide proof of 5 euros in an account.

Finally, last thing, you have to get a medical certificate justifying his good health, and check that you are in possession of a passport valid for the coming year.

Coming to Japan

There are four international airports in Japan, two of which are in Tokyo with the airports of Narita et Haneda, one in Nagoya and finally Osaka airport. So basically everything is concentrated in the central part of Japan and its largest island, Honshu. The main gateway to Japan being Tokyo's Narita Airport, it is about sixty kilometers from the center of the megalopolis so it must be taken into account.

Flight Paris – Tokyo and Paris – Osaka

To carry out these flights, the most likely, given the attractiveness of their respective region (Osaka being close to Kyoto and Tokyo, the megacity and capital of the country, is close to a symbol of the country like Mount Fuji), you have at least three companies allowing direct flights.

All of them leave Paris from Charles de Gaulle airport (CDG) and take at least 12 hours on the outward journey (12 hours 45 minutes on the return journey):

• Air France, with flights starting from €640, the French national airline is often good for direct flights
• Japan Airlines, the Japanese national airline offers similar rates
• All Nippon Airways (ANA), an interesting alternative, from €675

If I go into a little more detail, with Air France, you will find up to 4 daily flights, 2 connecting CDG (Paris) – Haneda (Tokyo), one from / to Narita (still Tokyo) and a direct flight also between Paris and Osaka. With a stopover via Paris, you will also find flights from Bordeaux, Lille, Lyon, Marseille, Montpellier, Nantes, Nice, Strasbourg and Toulouse. Still with a stopover, it is possible to fly to Fukuoka.

With the national company, Japan Airlines, it is a daily direct ground flight between Paris-CDG and Tokyo Haneda. For other cities, there will necessarily be a stopover in Tokyo but you will have a wide choice of other destinations.

Same with All Nippon Airways, the largest airline in Japan in terms of revenue and number of passengers, which offers direct flights from Paris but also Brussels (to Tokyo Haneda).

If we are interested in flights with stopovers, from my test, we find interesting rates below €600. Two companies in particular stand out for their short stopover time and an attractive rate:

• Finnair, the national airline of Finland, which offers flights (with a stopover in Helsinki) from €560 (excluding baggage).
• Swiss International Air Lines, the Swiss national airline, with similar fares (and a stopover in Zurich).

Among other companies that I can mention, there are the Gulf companies, namely Qatar Airways, with a stopover in Doha, always a safe bet, Emirates (and his stop in Dubai), or even Etihad Airways (stopover in Abu Dhabi). Another good company, Cathay Pacific (stopover in Hong Kong).

If we are really looking for the cheapest, a priori, it is on the side ofAlitalia that you have to watch, with tickets ranging from €500 to €600 (and a stopover in Rome) or even Turkish Airlines (stopover in Istanbul), with prices below €500. But layover times can sometimes be long (either on the way there or on the way back).

To summarize, your best options for a Paris – Tokyo flight, in alphabetical order, are as follows:

• Air France (French company), direct flight around €640.
• Alitalia (Italian company), best price, below €500.
• ANA (Japanese company), direct flight around €675.
• Finnair (Finnish company), price around €560.
• Japan Airlines (Japanese company), direct flight around €640.
• Qatar Airways (Qatari company), excellent value for money.
• Emirates (United Arab Emirates Company), recognized quality of the company.
• Etihad (United Arab Emirates airline), very good company with prices around €550.
• Swiss (Swiss company), price around €560 with the possibility of two checked bags per person.
• Turkish Airlines (Turkish company), good value for money, price less than €500.

I mentioned it for Alitalia and Turkish Airlines, but indeed, in addition to the price itself, don't forget to look at the journey times. As a reminder, a direct flight is around 12 hours, with a stopover, we consider that a "short" stopover is around 2-3 hours, which leaves time to get to the next flight without rushing too much. So if you see 20 hours and more, it is that the stopover is quite long and must be taken into consideration in the choice.

Finally, another point: luggage. Direct flights include 23 kg per passenger in the hold as standard. But some companies charge for baggage separately, this is the case for Finnair, which charges €90 per luggage (so the rate in my example is actually 560 + 90 = 650 €)

With this additional information, my conclusion from my test is thatAlitalia et Turkish Airlines come out on top in terms of price and stopover time, but I would like to point out that this is a test of a given time and that it is therefore preferable to look at other alternatives.

Getting around in Japan

The king of transportation in Japan is the train. With a network of more than 23 km, it is the most practical way to travel between cities. In addition, Japan is equipped with the Shinkansen, a high-speed train that contributes to the overall reputation of the Japanese railway network, namely, being modern, quality and well-maintained, with punctual service to boot. On the other hand, it must be admitted that it takes some time to get used to it at first.

Without necessarily taking the train, as Japan is dense from an urbanization point of view, it is easy to travel by subway as well. However, we tried other forms of transport, whether it be the bus, in a more local setting, and often useful to reach areas not covered by rails (it happens anyway).

You will have taxis like everywhere, and archipelago obliges, boats connecting the different islands. Finally, let's not forget the trip by yourself with the car rental, which we tested and allowed us to visit Japan a little differently and to test the Japanese road network. I can even test the bicycle, because it is with this means of locomotion (by electric bike   precisely)WhatWe visited the tea plantations of wazuka, north of Nara).

And overall, it's not the transport that's expensive for a trip to Japan, because everything remains very affordable. BOf course, it is more expensive than in South East Asia, but the transport conditions there are not as comfortable either.. And to give an idea of ​​the scale, the transport budget for our stay came to 19% of our total budget (compared to 41% for accommodation!).

Road transport

The buses

The bus remains an excellent means of inter-city transport, and even within the walls of certain cities. This is the case in Kyoto in particular, where it is rather easy to use with bus stops providing all the information in English, around the tourist sites.

This is unfortunately not always the case, outside of tourist areas, where taking the bus can quickly become a challenge. One of the reasons that can be confusing is that ticket sales systems will vary from one company to another. But a trend is emerging, payment is generally made on board via a machine that takes cash. It is therefore necessary to have the exact change, which can quickly become restrictive.

Another type of payment, when the fare depends on the distance traveled. The principle is that you will have to take a ticket issued at the entrance. This ticket indicates your pick-up station.

On the bus, the next stops are displayed above the driver's seat at the front, along with the fare in question. So it is when you get off, depending on the distance, that you will pay this or that amount.

The Suica or Pasmo card

To overcome this problem, there is a system in Japan of prepaid card widely used, especially by tourists, maps Suica or Pasmo. The operation of these cards is classic, you have an initial fund (normally 1 yen), which is debited as you travel and you can then recharge the card in terminals for this purpose, generally located in train stations and metro stations.

Among these advantages, besides not having to manage cash constantly (even if you have to use those coins that you accumulate after a while…), is that the card is so widespread that it can also be used as an alternative means of payment. In general, a logo will indicate the possibility of paying with your Suica or Pasmo cards. This will be the case for drinks machines (absolutely omnipresent in Japan!), convenience stores or even parking spaces.

With all that, the card is valid for 10 years, so if you plan to return to Japan, you can keep it. Otherwise, you just have to return it to get the card deposit back (500 yen).

Wei-Te Wong from Taipei City, Taiwan, Republic of China / CC BY-SA

Long distance buses

Trains are a thing in Japan, but depending on your destinations (and the cost of the JR Pass attests to this) it can quickly become expensive. And for that the bus offers an interesting affordable alternative. With the only “constraint” being that this means of transport is slower than express trains, of course.

There is even a dedicated bus network for this type of journey, the "Highway Bus" circulating day and night. A trip between Tokyo and Mount Fuji, for example, costs 3 yen., possible to book on the dedicated website (created by one of the companies operating this type of bus, it is not as such an official site, but it is one of the only ones allowing advance booking, in English).

Note a particularity with the Japan Railways bus, the railway company that also runs bus routes, to complete the segments not covered. In addition to being able to buy tickets directly at JR line stations, some local JR bus lines allow you to use the famous Japan Rail Pass (which I will discuss below since it primarily concerns the train).

JR West (including the popular Kansai region) has its own website to book these bus tickets: https://www.nishinihonjrbus.co.jp/en/

Taxis

They are found in all major cities, but they are the means of transport that you will need to use the least. The bus and metro are more than sufficient for most journeys. It seems to me that we has took a taxi only once to save time. Because that's still the advantage of a taxi: it's more direct, with the possibility of taking luggage, which is practical if you miss the last metro. But at what price!

Even though the fares vary from one city to another, you should expect to pay around 660 yen (for Osaka for example) for the first two kilometers, then a fare of around 300-400 yen per kilometer (that's precisely 80 yen every 296 meters in my example with Osaka). If you do the math, a trip between an airport and the city center can quickly come to around 15-20 yen (or more than €000!). This can s'add a 20% surcharge at night (enter 22h et 5h generally).

Taxis in Kyoto.

For some reason, many of the taxis will have Toyotas as their vehicles. Comfort (also known as Toyota Crown), with its 90s look, you can don't miss them. To borrow them, just wave from the side of the road. To know if they are free, it is the same principle as in Thailand if you know, namely an LED panel in the corner of the windshield on the right. It will be red if it is a free taxi (“空車” – kûsha) and will turn green (“賃走”, chinsô, or “実車”, jussha) when it is running.

Don't be surprised if the door opens by itself, they have a button to open it, and therefore to close it too, so don't slam the door when leaving to avoid damaging the mechanism 😉

In “bulk”, I can add the following information concerning taxis in Japan:

• You can borrow them for up to 4 passengers.
• You can find out an estimate of the prices via this site: Taxi Auto Fare
• Few drivers will speak English, better to have a map or better, the information written in Japanese (you can ask your hotel in advance if you are planning a specific route in taxi).
• Cash payments remain the majority to this day, even though some taxis are equipped with card readers.
• Forget “Asian” habits, in Japan, you don’t negotiate your taxi fare.
• Tipping is simply forbidden (yes yes!)

Finally, I will mention an app for your smartphone to book taxis (besides Uber, which also works), it is Japan Taxi. You can download from the Google Store on Android here.

Car, bike and rickshaw rental

Renting a car is not necessarily what comes to mind at first when visiting Japan. But spontaneously, it is the perfect way to escape a bit in rural Japan and above all have independence and complete freedom of movement.

A small advantage in my case, I am used to driving on the left, and that's good, it's the same here. And there, on Forget the Thai chaos, the discipline is such that it's close to grandpa's driving in Japan. Maximum speed 60 km/h in built-up areas (but including on roads outside urban areas), also common on motorways with separated carriageways (as was the case when we went out to Ine). Maximum speed on the highway: 100 km/h.

On a Japanese highway in the middle of the mountains.

At the administrative level, the international driving license alone is not enough. For drive legally in japan (I am speaking here for holders of a French passport and driving license since that is my case), it is imperative have your license translated by the JAF (Japan Automobile Federation).

Personally, I did it on site in Kyoto, the process as such is not complex, but it can waste a day of sightseeing, in this case you can have it done in advance via agencies (for example here), but this obviously requires additional costs.

If you want to know the details of the operation, I wrote an article on what it takes know how to drive in japan.

I had rented from Toyota Rent a Car, you can also use a comparator like Rentalcars to find what you are looking for.

Our rental car in Japan.

It will also be common to find bikes for rent, and what's more, often electric, which limits the effort required and can be a real plus (according to our exploration of Wazuka, which is not flat...)

During our visit to the tea plantations, we paid 1 yen (a little less than €9) by electric bike for half a day.

In cities and tourist areas, it will be possible to use rickshaws (especially in the summer, I can't imagine them doing that in the middle of winter). It's obviously a bit of a "tourist thing", even if we mostly saw locals doing it. But for fun, it's possible. On the other hand, since I haven't tried it, I don't know the prices.

A rickshaw on the streets of Kyoto.

Rail transport

As I mentioned in the introduction to this chapter, the efficiency of the Japanese railway network is no longer in doubt. The train remains the most efficient way to get around Japan quickly., notably thanks to the local TGV, le Shinkansen. This high-speed train allows you to cover long distances in short times, saving a significant amount of time to make the most of your on-site visits.

It is the preferred means of transport, and even local lines, if they do not benefit from the same speed, remain modern and punctual. It is also this type of transport that we used mainly when traveling between cities.

Waiting for our train to Kyoto at Osaka Station.

If you plan to see much of Japan by train, it is worth considering take a JR Pass, these unlimited packages set up for tourists by the local equivalent of the SNCF, Japan Railways. There are two types, the JR National Pass, allowing privileged access to the entire archipelago or a package JR Regional Pass if you focus on one region.

Train categories in Japan

There are several categories of train, depending on the number of stops and their speed:

• Location (kakueki-teisha or futsu-densha): These local trains stop at every station.
• fast (kaisoku): Rapid trains skip some stations. There is no difference in price between local and rapid trains, just a matter of timing.
• Express (kyuko): Express trains stop at even fewer stations than fast trains. There is usually no difference in fare between local and express trains.
• Limited Express (tokkyu): "Limited Express" trains stop only at major stations. Depending on the railway company, a fee must be paid in addition to the basic fare to ride a Limited Express. It is usually between 500 and 4 yen depending on the distance traveled. JR is one of the companies that charges a fee for this type of train.
• Super Express (the famous shinkansen): The Shinkansen is operated only by Japan Railways (JR) and uses separate lines and platforms. Fares are generally between 8 and 000 yen depending on the distance traveled.

The different classes

On long-distance trains, the JR offers a choice between two classes: THE regular seats and first class (called "Green Class"). Most local trains consist of only ordinary cars. Like all first classes in general, "Green" cars are generally less crowded and offer more spacious seats, but are obviously 30% to 50% more expensive than ordinary cars.

Most Shinkansen and "Limited Express" trains contain so-called " unreserved » (jiyū-seki or unreserved) and “ reserved » (shitei-seki or reserved), while some only have “reserved” seats. First class seats are often only “reserved” seats. On most local, rapid and express trains, not all seats are “reserved.” Seat reservations cost around 300 to 700 yen, but are free with the Japan Rail Pass.

Well-ventilated smoking rooms separated from the seats are provided on trains along the Tokaido/Sanyo Shinkansen. Smoking is prohibited on all other trains.

A ninja train, no doubt, we are definitely in Japan.

To buy a train ticket

Two possibilities, either via an automatic machine, for short distances:

1. Find your destination and the corresponding fare on the map above the vending machine. This task can be daunting as everything seems quite confusing at first. This takes some time to get used to.
2. The map shows the train lines and stations in the region. Ticket prices are listed next to each station.
3. Insert the money into the vending machine. Most machines accept 10, 50, 100, and 500 yen coins and 1000 yen bills. Many machines also accept larger denominations if needed.
4. Select the number of tickets you want to purchase. The default is one, so if you are traveling alone you can skip this step.
5. Press the button that indicates the amount of your ticket.
6. Collect the ticket(s) and change.

Local train map for the Kansai region.

For long distances, you will need to go to a train station ticket office. You will then need the following information:

• Number of Guests
• Date of travel
• Departure and arrival station
• Class type (ordinary or green)
• Reserved or unreserved seat preference

If you want to reserve a seat, you must provide additional information, namely the name (type) of the train, its number OR the departure time.

The JR Pass

Passes are easily available online and should be ordered before you go anyway. In fact, you must order the equivalent of a voucher from an authorized seller outside Japan. The latter being valid for 3 months, you must therefore buy it within 90 days prior to your arrival. Once there, simply give your voucher at one of the approved stations, for the Kansai region, which we visited, you have the choice here:

• Kyoto Station, JR-WEST (central exit) ticket office, daily from 5:30 a.m. to 23 p.m.
• Shin-Osaka Station, JR WEST (East Exit) ticket office, daily from 5:30 a.m. to 23:30 p.m.
• Osaka Station, ticket office, every day from 5:30 a.m. to 23 p.m.
• Kansai Airport, ticket office, every day from 5:30 a.m. to 23 p.m.
• Sannomiya Station, central exit, ticket office, every day from 5 a.m. to 23 p.m.
• Nara Station Office ticket, every day from 9 a.m. to 20 p.m.
• Wakayama Station ticket office, every day from 4:50 a.m. to midnight.

Map of the JR network in Japan. Credit Hisagi / CC BY-SA

For the JRP national, there are three packages depending on the length of your stay, namely, one week, two weeks or three weeks. Knowing that the base rate is officially 29 yen, the packages are therefore sold respectively at:

• €250 for a 7-day package
• €398 for a 14-day package
• €509 for a 21-day package

Seen like this, the prices seem quite high, but considering the price of a "normal" journey in Shinkansen, you will quickly understand the profitability of the latter. For example, a full-fare ticket (which is what the Japanese pay, who are not entitled to JR PASS) for a Tokyo – Osaka trip and €250, the price of the package for a single trip!

For the Regional JRP, The Packages are divided into shorter durations, ranging from one day to five days. And from our experience, it is then more difficult to make profitable for two reasons. The first is the local private train offer, leaving sufficient transport possibilities without necessarily using a JR, and this, for a much lower cost. The other reason being the constraint of the package, namely a given number of CONTINUOUS days.

To give a concrete example, our stay took place between Osaka, Kyoto and Nara, it is perfect in the idea since it corresponds to the JR Kansai Region Regional Pass, which covers these destinations. If we look at the prices, we see that it is €19 per day and €56 for four days. However, if we add up all the train costs for the period where we had 4 days in a row, it comes to only… €50, for two! That is just €25 per person when the Kansai JR Pass would have cost us double!

Basically, you can buy tickets online on the sites of the Japan Railways, and I mean that THE sites. Because strangely, everything is not centralized within the same general site, but rather independent sites depending on the region. What is confusing is that there is no harmony, each site being independent, they are also in terms of presentation and design…

Map of the railway network in the Kansai region.

On the following sites, you will have all the information on timetables, prices and possible connections, one for each region of the Japan Railways and, for areas where possible, online booking.

• JR Kyushu for the most southwestern island of the main islands of the archipelago forming Japan. This is where Fukuoka and Nagasaki are located.
• JR Shikoku for the smallest of Japan's main islands located next to the West Region and Kansai.
• JR West for the Kansai region (including Kyoto, Osaka) and the west of Honshu Island (Himeji, Okayama, Hiroshima). It is also possible to book the JR West Pass, the regional JR Pass for this part of Japan (up to 7 days).
• JR Central for the central region of Mount Fuji, near Tokyo to Nagoya.
• JR East for the Eastern region, including Tokyo, Nagano etc.
• JR Hokkaido for the northernmost island of Japan

Online reservations are possible for the following lines:

Book with 12GB

It is certainly possible to book train tickets for Japan on this site, which is efficient for Asia, but even if it would suit me since it is a booking tool with which I am affiliated, I doubt the usefulness if you plan to use a JR Pass. The site 12Go only offering full-price tickets. 

Note however thatIt is also possible to buy the famous JR Pass on 12GB 😉

Taking the subway in Japan

To complete the rail section, Japan also has a substantial metro network. Most major cities (Osaka and Kyoto to name just those we took) have them and it is a fast and efficient way to get from one point to another in the city. I can also mention Tokyo, recognized as one of the best-connected cities in the world.

Normally (and fortunately), you will have explanatory signs in English to help you find your way, the same goes for the display of the next stations once you are in the cars. If you want to simplify the use of the latter, don't forget to get a Suica or Pasmo prepaid card.

The principle remains similar to many metros around the world. If you don't have a card, there are automatic terminals to buy tickets in " one shot ». Follow the signs to get there and validate the ticket in the machine, keep it good, because it is still used for exit.

Once on the platform, don't "play" the Parisian. Let people out first and don't wait in front of the doors but on the sides.

A good thing, the price of the ticket being based on the distance, is that if you ever go too far, because you change plans during the journey (it happened to us), you will see machines at the exit of the platforms (before the exit of the paying zone) marked "Fare Adjustment", which therefore serve precisely to adjust ticket price et pay the missing balance to avoid being blocked at the exit.

Machines for metro tickets.

Shipping

In case you missed the first lines, I remind you that Japan is an archipelago made up of several thousand islands. Around say that maritime transport is more than present to ensure connections between the different groups of islands. The boat is not necessary to move on the four main islands of Japan (in geographical order, from south to north, Kyushu, Shikoku, Honshu and Hokkaido), the latter being connected by bridges and tunnels (except Hokkaido which is only accessible by train but not by road).

Ferries are essential to access the many more isolated islands and most of the time, can carry both passengers and vehicles if you are on a road trip. Long-distance ferries are downright mini cruise ships, with a relaxation lounge, restaurant, and even public baths (onsen style), which can accommodate hundreds of vehicles and as many passengers.

Vehicle transport vessel.

On these long distance ferries and that includes at least one night, there is the choice between three types of classes (second, first and special) distributed as follows:

• 2nd class without bed : lThe cheapest option since you have access to the common area and a space with a mat or tatami on the floor to rest on, but no proper bed.
• 2nd class with bed : for to benefit from a bed, expect to pay 20 to 40% more than the previous class. In this case, the rooms are dormitories with between 4 and 12 places.
• 1st class : for double the price of the “without bed” class, you will have a room with 2 to 4 beds.
• Special class : for a supplement over 1st class (roughly 2.5 times the price 2nd class without beds), you will have a room with two beds, perfect for couples without children on a budget.

These large ships operate particularly internationally, with connections to China and South Korea.

With the company China Japan International Ferry for example, operating between Shanghai and the port of Kobe, you can make the connection for a fare (for the outward journey only) varying from 20 yen (000 € in 170nd Class Cabin) to 2 yen (40 € in Special Cabin) and even 000 yen (340 € in Royal Cabin).

To get to South Korea from Japan, you have at least two companies, PanStar Cruise and Kampu Ferry (which is also part of the SHK Line group that I talk about later).

Whatever the journey and its length; if ferry departures are frequent, it is not necessarily necessary to book in advance, including if you have a vehicle. Otherwise it is preferable. The fare of a vehicle depends on its length and includes the ticket for the driver but there remains to pay the fare for the other passengers.

If you are boarding by bike, the cost is based on an hourly rate, usually 100 yen per hour. So if your ferry ride takes 8 hours, then you will have to pay 800 yen to take your bike on board.

Note the upcoming implementation of a pass similar to that offered by the railway company in Japan, which would be the Japan Ferry Pass.

For reservations, some companies have their own website in English, but as there are about twenty companies, I will not list them all here. On the other hand, I can mention the main companies that operate inter-regionally:

For example, we can cite the MOL group, which is divided into three separate ferry companies depending on the routes they manage:

• MOL Ferry, operating between Oarai (north of Tokyo) and Tomakomai (on the island of Hokkaido)
• Meimon Taiyo Ferry (City Line), operating between Osaka and Kita Kyushu, a port in the north of the eponymous island. The "Tourist" cabins are interesting with a price starting at €47 in low season (€64 in high season, end of April, beginning of May and August). The advantage is that they sail at night (departure at 17 p.m. and 19 p.m.) and therefore save a night in a hotel.
• Sunflower Ferry, operating between Kyushu Island and Honshū. Specifically between Osaka (Kansai region) and Shibushi (Kagoshima) or Beppu and between Kobe (on the main island of Honshū) and Oita (on Kyushu Island)

Another important group, SHK Line Group, which allows you to book connections on English-language sites via three of their subsidiaries (the group is divided into 9 companies in total, 7 of which operate ferries):

• Hankyu Ferry, for connections between Kobe or Izumiotsu (south of Osaka) and Shinmoji (north of Kyūshū Island)
• Shin Nihonkai Ferry, operating between the north coast of the main island Honshū and the island of Hokkaido
• Ocean Trans, running between Tokyo and Tokushima (on the island of Shikoku) and Kita Kyushu, a port in the north of the island of Kyūshū

As an independent company, you have Taiheiyo Ferry, operating between Nagoya, in the heart of Honshū Island, Sendai, north of Tokyo and Tomakomai, on the island of Hokkaidō.

I also give you two sites that can support reservations on popular ferry lines in Japan.

The first, whose search tool you have below, allows you to book connections mainly for Okinawa, the islands south of Kogashima (on the island of Kyushu) and the Izu Islands, south of Tokyo Bay. You will also find ferries for international connections such as Panstar Cruise connecting Osaka, in Kansai, and Busan, in the south of South Korea.

• Direct Ferries*

Air transport

As mentioned above, there are 4 international airports in Japan, which can serve as a landing point in the country, in order of importance in terms of traffic:

1. Tokyo (Haneda International Airport – HND)
2. Tokyo (Narita International Airport – NRT)
3. Osaka (Kansai International Airport – KIX)
4. Nagoya (Chubu Centrair International Airport – NGO)

Osaka has a second airport, also known asOsaka International Airport (ITM), but since the opening of Kansai Airport, it is only used for internal flights and is therefore renamed Itami Airport after the name of the town where the airport is located, 20 km north of Osaka.

Fukuoka Airport (to the code IATA funny for English speakers, since it is FUCK), although important in terms of attendance and also international, mainly serves countries around Japan. (in Asia therefore), including Thailand. 

Nagasaki also has an airport of international dimensions, but above all in the name… Nagasaki International Airport (NGS) only serves China with Shanghai, Hong Kong and South Korea, as it is located much closer to Seoul than the airport Haneda ou Narita from Tokyo.

Apart from these airports, there are no less than 50 domestic airports and aerodromes, 28 of which reach one million passengers per year. I will therefore not list them all here, but the most used, apart from those mentioned in the lines above, are the following:

1. Sapporo (Shin-Chitose Airport – CTS) — main airport on the island of Hokkaido
2. Naha (Okinawa-Naha Airport – OKA) — main airport on the island of Okinawa
3. Kogashima (Kogashima Airport – KOJ) — in the south of the island of Kyushu
4. Kumamoto (Kumamoto Airport – KMJ) — in the middle of Kyushu Island
5. Sendai (Sendai Airport – SDJ) — north of Tokyo, in the Tōhoku region
6. Miyazaki (Miyazaki Airport – KMI) — also on Kyushu Island, east side
7. Matsuyama (Matsuyama Airport – MYJ) — main airport on Shikoku Island
8. Hiroshima (Hiroshima Airport – HIJ) — in the Chūgoku region, at the western end of the island of Honshū
9. Kobe (Kobe Airport – UKB) — another airport in the Kansai region
10. Ishigaki (Ishigaki-Painushima Airport – ISG) — serving the Ishigaki island group (off the coast of Taiwan), just south of Okinawa

As long as you stay within the four main islands, you're unlikely to need to take an internal flight, as the train remains largely efficient and cost-effective thanks to the JR Pass. However, if you're heading to more remote islands (Okinawa for example), flying will be the quickest option.

If you have time, there is obviously the ferry, but it is not said that it will be cheaper with the offer of low-cost companies that now allow flights at competitive prices. To give an example, a Tokyo – Sapporo flight can be found for around €50.

ANA airline plane at Osaka airport. Photo credit mackwo7 (pixabay.com)

In addition to the big companies already mentioned such as Japan Airlines (JAL) or All Nippon Airways (ANA) which obviously operate local flights, there are, as everywhere, a series of local companies, which are sometimes local branches of regional companies (from Asia Pacific). Among these companies, there are two, already mentioned several times on this blog:

• Jetstar Japan, Japanese branch of la Australian low cost airline. Jetstar Japan operates the largest domestic network among low-cost carriers. From Tokyo's Narita Airport, Osaka's Kansai Airport and Nagoya's central airport in Japan, it serves many domestic destinations and a small number of international destinations.
• Air Asia Japan, a branch of the famous Malaysian company (famous since popular in Thailand). Restarted in 2017, it currently only operates one route between Nagoya and Sapporo.

In both cases, note that theThe baggage policy is strict and services are limited, although paid drinks and snacks are available on board. Beware of hidden fees.

Other local companies in Japan include the following:

• Skymark Airlines, which has one of the most extensive route networks among low-cost airlines in Japan. It operates low-cost flights from its main bases in Tokyo-Haneda and Kobe to destinations nationwide. The airline maintains a certain level of airport services and a fairly moderate baggage policy, but keeps its onboard service to a minimum.
• Peach Aviation, Japan's first true low-cost airline (since 2012), introducing fares never before seen in Japan. The airline is based at Osaka's Kansai Airport, Tokyo's Narita Airport and Okinawa's Naha Airport and operates several domestic and international routes to nearby Asian destinations.
• Spring Airlines Japan, is a small company that connects Narita Airport to Hiroshima, Sapporo, Saga and several cities in China.
• Air Do offers cheap flights from Tokyo's Haneda Airport to various destinations in Hokkaido, and from Sapporo to Osaka and several secondary airports across Honshu. A relatively generous baggage allowance and a certain level of service are maintained, including complementary drinks.
• Starflyer Starflyer also offers cheap flights on its route network, centered around Kita Kyushu and nearby Fukuoka and Yamaguchi. Starflyer not only offers cheap fares, but also a level of comfort that exceeds that of conventional airlines by offering spacious seats, complementary drinks and a video system for each passenger.
• Solaseed Air, operates cheap flights from Tokyo's Haneda Airport to various cities in Kyushu, as well as from Nagoya and Kobe to Okinawa.
• Fuji Dream Airlines, a company that began operations with the opening of Shizuoka Airport in 2009. In addition to Shizuoka Airport, the airline also serves a number of other airports across the country, including Matsumoto and Nagoya.
• IBEX Airlines operates a small domestic route network based in Sendai. It includes flights from Tokyo's Narita Airport, Osaka's Itami Airport and Nagoya's Central Japan Airport.

Of these companies, at least two stand out for a lesser side. cheap » and more comfortable, offering in particular a franchise relatively generous luggage and a certain level of service maintained, including complementary drinks, Starflyer and Solaseed Air. However, they will not be the cheapest, obviously. Ibex being in this same range, but even a little more expensive.

Starflyer plane approaching Osaka. Photo credit: Flick: ken H.

With more than 30 million tourists in 2019, Japan is attracting more and more people, multiplying the number of tourists by 8 in just 10 years. However, it is not a country known for its cheap offers and the tourist must have a substantial average budget to really enjoy the country.

When it comes to hotels, this is no exception. However, there is a wide range of establishments that can satisfy just about any style of traveler. Little ones guesthouses offering single rooms in the form of a “capsule” bed (usually from €20), to the individual rooms of a “classic” hotel and to the experience of ryokan (over €300), there is choice.

Note if you are a smoker, there are rooms in Japan specified as non-smoking in some hotels, which makes me think that others must accept smokers. (either because there is a terrace or something else).

Below I have listed the best hotels we tested during our stay in Japan, knowing that each time they were small individual rooms, except at the ryokan, a unique experience:

Do I need travel insurance?

Even though Japan is a particularly safe country, it remains subject to natural disasters, and zero risk in general does not exist. As a result, travel insurance is always a plus to cover hospitalization costs and health expenses that can quickly become high without an assistance contract, especially if you are going to Asia for several months, this can be more than welcome in the event of a problem, as credit card insurance is limited (it only covers 0 months).

The maximum amount for healthcare costs covered by traditional credit cards may prove insufficient (around €10 compared to €000 for dedicated travel insurance) and does not cover civil liability.

I advise you ACS Travel & Expatriation Insurance Solutions*.

I would like to point out that if you subscribe to the insurance via the link, I would receive a small commission. This is a simple way to help keep the site running, as insurance is preferable anyway and will therefore be beneficial to both you and me.

What vaccines and what do I need to know for my health?

This section will be quite different from the other countries mentioned on this blog, Japan being clean in terms of hygiene and there are fewer mosquito-related diseases, there is no compulsory vaccination as such.

Be up to date with your standard vaccinations (DTP for adults, MMR for children). The only requirement is that if you are coming from a country at risk, for example yellow fever, you would have to respect the health measures required by the country.

Recommended vaccines:

• HEPATITIS A
• HEPATITIS B
• JAPANESE ENCEPHALITIS

This series of vaccines is often recommended in Asia depending on local travel conditions. A term that remains rather "vague" but implies a rather rural stay. The vaccine against Japanese encephalitis may be necessary in the event of a prolonged stay in a rural area for example. The latter being transmitted by mosquitoes, protection against them is particularly important.

Hygiene in Japan

Hygiene conditions are good in Japan, so no particular concerns from that point of view. I would just mention that if you want to try the famous fugu, for example, a fish that is extremely toxic if not properly prepared (you are dead in less than 4 hours if applicable), it is better to go to a reputable establishment where the chef will have followed the long training to be qualified.

Apart from that, the conditions are similar to Europe. Everything is well washed, packaged, it is unlikely that you will experience stomach problems in Japan (even if the risk 0 does not exist once again). The general hygiene rules therefore remain in force!

• Wash your hands frequently before each meal (possibly with an antimicrobial solution since it is used without water).
• Meat and fish/shellfish must be thoroughly cooked before consumption.

For your safety

Japan is particularly renowned for its safety. Very unlikely to encounter theft, assault or even scams. Leave with peace of mind, without necessarily letting your guard down completely, but in general, a wallet forgotten in Japan will remain in its place at the time unless it is kept carefully until your return.

Risk areas

Several risks specific to Japan can be distinguished:

• Natural hazards. Japan experiences typhoons every year, possibly from June to October but more widely between August and September. This results in violent winds that can reach 300 km/hour and heavy rains (20 mm per hour!). In addition, Japan is frequently subject to earthquakes, and to a lesser extent, volcanic activity (depending on the islands).
• Wild animals.It can happen de have bad encounters during a walk in the forest. Sometimes fatal attacks involving bears are recorded every year. Avoid approaching wild monkeys and trying to feed them.
• The area around Fukushima : unless you are into urbex, explorer delirium, it is unlikely that you will go to the area affected by the Fukushima disaster. There is still a prohibited zone and restricted areas around the plant.

Practical information

– Emergency numbers –

• Police: 110
• Police with possible response in French: +81 3 35 03 84 84
• Firefighters / Ambulance: 119

Hospitals in Tokyo

• Red Cross Hospital: Nisseki Byoin
  Tel. : +81 3 34 00 13 11
• Keio University Hospital: 
  Tel. : +81 3 33 53 12 08
• Tokyo Clinic (English and even French speaking doctors): 
  Phone. : +81 3 34 36 30 28 or +81 3 34 36 30 25

French Embassy in Japan:

• Ministry of Foreign Affairs website on Japan

Here is a map to locate and summarize all the destinations and places of interest in Japan:

Banknotes used in Japan: despite all the modernity that can be attributed to Japan, the milestone of the digital transition concerning payments is not yet there…. Japan remains firmly in the use of cash essentially, despite the use of popular prepaid cards, which can be recharged with cash only anyway...

The Yen, the name of the official currency in Japan, includes a series of 4 notes only and 6 coins according to the following values:

• Notes: 1, 000, 2 and 000 ￥
• coins: 1, 5, 10, 50, 100 and 500 ￥

To round it off, tell yourself that a 1 ￥ coin corresponds to 1/100th of a euro cent... Suffice to say that when you accumulate them, it's hard to know what to do with them... The values ​​of the other coins range up to a little over €4 for 500 ￥ (a new version of which will be put into circulation by 2024)

For the banknotes, issued by the central bank of Japan, Nippon Ginko, the values ​​range from €8,5 for the 1 ￥ note to €000 for a 85,4 ￥ note. To simplify the mental calculation, remove two zeros from the numbers you see to get an idea of ​​the price in euros, possibly subtract 10% to this figure to get closer to the exact value.

Among these, the 10 note ￥ is quite common despite being a "large" note, because this is the one you will mostly get in exchange offices and ATMs. Try to spend it in a supermarket rather than at a small shopkeeper, who even if he will not refuse you, generally does not appreciate large changes. Conversely, the 2 000 ￥ is rarer since it has not been produced since 2004. If you come across it, keep it in your collection, otherwise try to sell it in a supermarket or somewhere else, because it will not normally pass through the machines. As for the other notes, a renewal of the range is also planned by 2024.

As mentioned in the section about hotels tested, Japan is not the most affordable when it comes to accommodation. However, it is not insurmountable and even remains below the prices sometimes practiced in Europe in tourist areas.

Below, I summarize the price range found in Japan:

SOME POINTS OF REFERENCE:

• • • For hostels and dormitories, expect to pay around 1 to 000 yen (2-000 euros)
    • For hotels with single room AND bathroom, expect to pay at least ¥3-500 (€5-000)
    • For a more cosy range, expect at least ¥6 to ¥000 (€8-000), which corresponds to our stay
    • For more space in the rooms and to try out ryokans, it's from 10-15 yen (000-90 €)

Japanese food is very varied and it is entirely possible to eat without breaking the bank. For light meals, eaten quickly between two visits, it is possible to fill your belly for 5-6 €. In the evening, if you want to faire pleasure, it is also possible without necessarily blowing the budget. As such, eating in Japan is certainly not the most expensive thing.

SOME POINTS OF REFERENCE:

• • • A bottle of water (0.5 L) costs on average 120 ¥ (1 €)
    • A basic meal costs an average of ¥900 (€7) per person.
    • For a slightly more elaborate meal, expect to pay double ¥1 (€800) per person.
    • Coffee: ¥200 (1,7 €) minimum in a 7-11
    • A 0,5 liter local beer – ¥425 (€3,6)

Transport is not as cheap as in Southeast Asia, that's for sure, but it's not unaffordable either, far from it. While trains reign supreme in Japan, being present everywhere, renting a car, if you need freedom, remains largely possible. 

Taxis are the means of transport to avoid in Japan if you are on a tighter budget. There will normally be alternatives in cities, between the subway and buses, which makes taking a taxi only necessary for a time saving issue.

SOME POINTS OF REFERENCE:

• • • Car rental: expect 7 yen/day (€000)
    • Gasoline: around 140 ¥/liter (1,2 €)
    • Bus: for intermediate journeys, expect to pay ¥1 (€500) per person
    • For city buses and subway (local routes), on average 210 yen per trip (1,8 €)
    • Taxi: depending on distance and city, ¥4 to ¥000 (€8 to €000 for around 33 to 66 km)
    • Train ride (short trip), example Kyoto – Nara, ¥640 (€5,5) per person
    • JR Pass: €250 for 7 days

Any opinions, suggestions? Leave me a comment!