Travel to Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka in brief:

Capital Colombo (economic capital) and Sri Jayawardenepura Kotte (political capital)
In total area : 65 610 km²
Border countries India (nearby), Maldives (to the south)
Official languages Sinhala and Tamil
Currency Sri Lankan rupee (LKR)
religions ~70% Buddhists, ~12% Hindus, ~10% Muslims, ~7% Christians
Independence : 1948 (from the United Kingdom)
Diet socialist democratic republic
Administration : 9 provinces (25 districts)
Population ~22 million inhabitants
Visa for French citizens : 30-day exemption (ETA required before departure)
Average daily budget ~€33 per person
Time difference : +3:30 (summer time) / +4:30 (winter time)
Best period : all year round depending on the coast (two different monsoons)
Flight duration ~13h (Paris → Colombo, still with a stopover)
Electrical outlets 230 V • Types D, G and M
Telephone code : + 94

Why visit Sri Lanka?

Sri Lanka is a country that surprised me with its rich culture, diverse landscapes, and the kindness of its people. I must say that initially, I hadn't particularly planned a stay on "the resplendent island," one of its nicknames.

But when the opportunity arose, we planned an itinerary from the southern beaches up to the heart of the cultural triangle, formed by the ancient historical cities of Dambulla, Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, not forgetting the famous Lion Rock of Sigiriya.

Separated from India by a strait of approximately 31 km, the island shares certain influences while asserting a strong identity. Throughout the centuries, it has been nicknamed the Emerald Isle, the Pearl of the Orient, Serendib, the Ruby Island… and, more recently, the “Teardrop of India” for its shape. The name Ceylon, in fact, still lingers in people's minds.

Like Indonesia and Malaysia, Sri Lanka has experienced several periods of colonization: Portuguese, Dutch, and then British. The British structured the railway network and developed tea plantations in the central mountains (a historical observation, without value judgment).

The country only truly opened up to tourism after the end of the civil war in 2009, which pitted the government against the Tamil Tigers (LTTE) for nearly thirty years. The island is predominantly Sinhalese, with a significant Tamil minority, still very present in the tea plantations.

fishing boats sri lanka — Sri Lankan fishing boats on Unawatuna beach

central plain from dambulla caves - sri lanka — The central plains as seen from the Dambulla caves

Despite its past, Sri Lanka remains easy to travel around and very compact. For a territory almost ten times smaller than France or Thailand, it boasts long, unspoiled beaches, tea-covered mountains, ancient temples, national parks, and several former royal capitals.

Unawatuna, Dambulla, Sigiriya, Ella, Kandy, Anuradhapura… each region has its own atmosphere. The island lends itself equally well to a cultural trip as to a nature or beach holiday, without endless distances.

WE love

Sri Lankans are generally friendly and welcoming people.
Costs remain rather cheap.
Varied landscapes
Lots of wild animals (safaris in Sri Lanka are famous).

We are less of a fan

Getting around wasn't always easy, finding the right bus, getting a seat… (well, you have to put things in context, it was during Buddhist New Year, so it was very crowded…)
Lack of variation in dishes (rice curry, rice curry or… rice curry?)

Visa: what you need to know

For tourist stays in Sri Lanka, an Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA) is required. The country very often applies a 30-day fee waiver (variable depending on the period and nationality), but The ETA remains mandatory.

Duration and conditions

Standard duration : 30 days (single or multiple entry depending on the period).
On-site renewal : possible up to 90 days (at the Department of Immigration, Colombo).
Passport : minimum validity of 6 months after entry.
Return ticket : sometimes requested.
Hosting An address may be required upon arrival.

How to apply

The ETA is done online at the official website (This is the preferred method to avoid intermediary fees). You will then receive authorization by email within 24 to 72 hours.

Usual delay : fast (usually < 48 h).
At the arrival Immigration scans the passport and checks the ETA in their system.

Visa cost

Frequent exemption : free for 30 days (periods renewed regularly).
Outside the exemption period : fees vary depending on nationality and type of entry.

Please note: Conditions change frequently (temporary offers, extended exemptions). Check the fare and eligibility just before your trip.

Practical advice

– print or save the ETA on your phone;
– check the validity of your passport (minimum 6 months);
– plan for a first night booked (often requested at check-in).

Weather / When to go to Sri Lanka?

Sri Lanka has a tropical climate characterized by two main seasons — dry and wet — and especially by two distinct monsoonsDepending on the time of your trip, different regions will offer different conditions.

The Yala Monsoon (southwest) breath of May to AugustThis is the most intense: it affects especially the west coast, the south coast et the central mountains, with sometimes heavy rain.
Maha's Monsoon (northeast) takes over fromOctober to JanuaryIt brings rain to the North et the east coast.

Temperatures remain high all year round: generally 28 ° C to 34 ° C during the day, with minimum temperatures around 22-26 ° CThe warmest months are between March and Junethe gentlest among November and Januarya bit like in Thailand.

On Highlands They benefit from a much cooler climate thanks to the altitude. In Nuwara Eliya, maximum temperatures rarely exceed 23°C even in April, and we're usually around 18-20 ° C In July. The nights can be very cool: 9°C in January, often around 12-13 ° C mid-year.

overcast weather colombo lake - sri lanka — Overcast weather arrived in Colombo (end of stay).

bodhgaya- india — The rice paddies in the plains are dry in April.

Best time to visit Sri Lanka

Thanks to the two monsoons, this creates opposing seasons depending on the regionSo, good news: there is always an area where you can travel in good conditions.

West Coast & South (Colombo, Galle, Mirissa): best period december to march.
East Coast & Northeast (Trincomalee, Batticaloa, Arugam Bay): best period April to September.
Highlands (Kandy, Ella, Nuwara Eliya): cooler climate january to march are the most pleasant months.

To help you choose the ideal time based on your itinerary, here are the trends region by region.

WEATHER REPORT - West Coast & South

Happy month mixed To avoid

Month	Minimum temperature	Maximum temperature	Rain	Features
Jan.	23°C	31°C	60 mm	Dry season, rather calm sea
Feb.	24°C	31°C	70 mm	Very good by the sea
Mars	25°C	32°C	120 mm	Rising heat
Apr.	25°C	32°C	200 mm	More frequent showers
Mai	26°C	31°C	300 mm	Start of monsoon SW
June	25°C	30°C	350 mm	SW monsoon (rough seas)
Jul.	25°C	30°C	300 mm	Winds + rain
August	25°C	30°C	240 mm	Monsoon still active
Sept.	25°C	30°C	220 mm	The rains are gradually ending.
Oct.	24°C	30°C	250 mm	Between seasons
Nov.	24°C	30°C	150 mm	Back to a good window
Dec.	23°C	30°C	90 mm	Very good period

WEATHER — East Coast & Northeast

Happy month mixed To avoid

Month	Minimum temperature	Maximum temperature	Rain	Features
Jan.	23°C	29°C	220 mm	active NE monsoon
Feb.	24°C	30°C	180 mm	Residual rainfall
Mars	25°C	31°C	90 mm	Supplier
Apr.	26°C	32°C	70 mm	The start of the good season
Mai	27°C	33°C	40 mm	Very good (surfing Arugam Bay)
June	27°C	33°C	20 mm	Sun, favorable sea
Jul.	27°C	33°C	20 mm	Peak season
August	26°C	33°C	30 mm	Very good
Sept.	26°C	33°C	60 mm	Still favorable
Oct.	25°C	32°C	180 mm	Return of the rains
Nov.	24°C	30°C	300 mm	Northeast monsoon (heavy downpours)
Dec.	23°C	29°C	250 mm	Monsoon NE

WEATHER — Highlands

Happy month mixed To avoid

Month	Minimum temperature	Maximum temperature	Rain	Features
Jan.	12°C	22°C	90 mm	Cool in the morning/evening
Feb.	13°C	23°C	70 mm	Good visibility
Mars	14°C	24°C	130 mm	Possible showers
Apr.	15°C	24°C	220 mm	Heavy rainfall
Mai	16°C	23°C	280 mm	Monsoon SW
June	15°C	22°C	260 mm	Rain + fog
Jul.	15°C	21°C	220 mm	Damp, reduced visibility
August	15°C	21°C	210 mm	Watered again
Sept.	15°C	22°C	180 mm	Transition
Oct.	15°C	22°C	230 mm	Inter-monsoon rains
Nov.	14°C	22°C	160 mm	Correct window
Dec.	13°C	21°C	120 mm	Fresh but pleasant

Things to see and do in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka brings together a rather crazy diversity in a relatively compact area: still unspoiled beaches, ancient royal cities listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites, mountains covered with tea plantations, wildlife, Buddhist and Hindu temples… To simplify, visits can be divided into six major regions.

1) Colombo and the West Coast

Colombo, often the gateway to the country, offers some pleasant stops: the temple Gangaramaya, the surroundings of the Lake Beira and the seafront of Galle face greenFurther north, the temple of Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara worth a detour, even if the whole area remains rather unattractive for a long stay.

This is also why many prefer to settle directly in Negombo, very close to the international airport: a beach, peace and quiet, and a good spot to recover from the flight.

There is no shortage of beaches and diving spots on the west coast: Mount Lavinia, bentota, the major fishing port of Beruwela or Kande Viharaya templeFurther north, the region of Kalpitiya seduced by its dunes, its lagoon, an old Dutch fort and its ideal conditions for the kite surfing.

Colombo — worth seeing

Temple of Gangaramaya & a walk around the Lake Beira
Galle face green at sunset
Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara (north of Colombo)
Mount Lavinia (beach, seaside restaurants)
Negombo (Practical activity after the flight: beach and fish market)

Some must-sees on the West Coast

bentota (beach, snorkeling)
Beruwela (large fishing port, fish market)
Temple of Kande Viharaya
Kalpitiya (lagoon, dunes, kite surfing, reefs)
Wreck diving: SS Perseus, Thermophylae Sierra (depending on level)

2) The southern coastline

The most renowned region is located between Galle et MataraGalle is one of the country's must-see attractions with its fortified old town UNESCO World Heritage Site and its iconic lighthouse. Nearby, the beach ofUnawatuna is perfect for a first swim in the sea.

Continuing east: the famous fishermen on stilts in Koggala, the beaches of mid-gama et Coconut Beach, then the large bay of Never, a paradise for beginner surfers. Mirissa is more lively, while Tangalle offers a final, more peaceful stop before heading back up towards the national parks.

From tissamaharama ou Kataragama, we access the Yala National Park, one of the best places in the country to observe wild elephants, crocodiles and leopards.

Galle — worth seeing

fortified old town (UNESCO)
Headlight & ramparts
Maritime Museum (depending on interest)

Between Galle and Matara — beaches & rest stops

Unawatuna (Easy for a first bath)
Koggala (fishermen on stilts)
mid-gama & Coconut Beach (points of view)
Never (beginner surfing)
Mirissa (more lively; whale watching trips depending on the season)
Tangalle (calm, long beaches)

Yala Safari — practical information

base: tissamaharama ou Kataragama
Fauna: leopards, Elephants, crocodilesbirds
Book the veille (or via hosting)

3) The central mountains

The central region is a blend of primeval forests, tea plantations, and ancient temples. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Sinharaja reserve is considered the last great primary rainforest in the country.

Ella is an excellent starting point for the famous train journey to Nuwara Eliya, one of the most beautiful in Asia, nestled between mountains and tea plantations. Nearby: Ravana Falls, Little Adam's Peak and several waterfalls visible from the road.

The region of Central Highlands concentrates many sites: the country's highest point, the Pidurutalagala, the national park of Horton Plains (World's End, Baker's Falls), the area of Devil's Stair, or even the falls of Bambarakanda Falls et Lanka Ella.

train journey ella - nuwara eliya - sri lanka

Further west, the adam peak (Sri Pada) has been attracting pilgrims from the four major religions present in the country for a millennium. The ascent mainly takes place between December and May.

Heading north, Kandy stands out as a major stop: its lake, the Temple of the Tooth, the forest sanctuary ofUdawatta Kele and the verdant surroundings. Nearby, the Knuckles reserve completes the mountainous area.

Ella — key points

Ella train → Nuwara Eliya (scenic route)
Little Adam's Peak, Ravana Falls
Views and easy short hikes

Nuwara Eliya — tea & surroundings

Plantations & factory tours
"Climate resort" atmosphere
Summit : Pidurutalagala (highest point, restricted access)

Horton Plains — practical information

Hike to World's End & Baker's Falls
Start date early (fog after 9-10am)
Warm clothing (altitude, wind)

Adam's Peak (Sri Pada)

Main period: December → May
Nighttime ascent for sunrise
Lots of steps; bring water and a windbreaker

Kandy — essential

Temple of the Tooth & walk around the lake
Sanctuary ofUdawatta Kele
Access to the Knuckles reserve (hiking)

4) The cultural triangle

This area connects Kandy, Polonnaruwa et Anuradhapura, the historical heart of Sri Lanka. It contains the caves of Dambulla, Lion Rock de Sigiriya and several former capitals.

À PolonnaruwaWe explore the ruins of the ancient city (122 hectares), including major sites such as the Vatadage, Lankatilaka and the statues of Gal Vihara. The Minneriya National Park is a good alternative for observing elephants if you are not going down to the southern parks.

Anuradhapura was a capital for 1,300 years: vast, thousand-year-old stupas, temples still active, and above all the Sri Maha Bodhi, a cutting from the tree under which Buddha attained Enlightenment. The great stupa of Ruwanwelisaya is one of the most imposing religious monuments in the world.

Sigiriya

Lion Rock (UNESCO) — early morning ascent
A calmer alternative: Pidurangala (view of Sigiriya)

Dambulla

Complex of cave-temples (paintings & statues)
Arrive in late afternoon (light, fewer people)

Polonnaruwa

Vatadage, Lankatilaka, Gal Vihara
Bike rental available for visiting the site (122 ha)

Anuradhapura

Ruwanwelisaya, Jethawanaramaya (giant stupas)
Sri Maha Bodhi (sacred tree)

5) The East Coast

Wilder and less frequented, the east coast comprises three main areas. In the south, the bay ofArugam attracts surfers and long-distance travelers. Nearby: the Kudumbigala Shrine and Kumana National Park.

Further north, Beat it et Kalkudah/Pasikudah They offer quiet beaches, kayaking in the lagoon, a market, a lighthouse and several diving sites.

Trincomalee (Trincomalee) blends Hindu temples (including the spectacular Koneswaram), Dutch fort (Fort Frederick), hot springs of Kanniya and beaches Nilaveli et UppuveliIt also provides access to the marine park of Pigeon Island.

lagoon view from batticaloa lighthouse - sri lanka — View of the lagoon from the Batticaloa lighthouse. (Photo credit: Kondephy)

Arugam Bay

Surf & backpacker vibe
Kudumbigala (hermitage), Kumana Park

Batticaloa / Pasikudah

Beaches Kalkudah & Pasikudah
Kayaking on the lagoon, Lighthouse, market

Trincomalee

Fort Frederick, Koneswaram temple
Hot springs of Kanniya
Beaches: Nilaveli & Uppuveli
Snorkeling: Pigeon Island (marine park)

6) The Northern Provinces

The main city is Jaffna, former Tamil cultural capital: Jaffna FortHindu temples (in particular) Nallur kandaswamy), port, markets and neighborhoods marked by the civil war. Jaffna's unique feature is that it is located on a peninsula, cut off from the rest of Sri Lanka by the Indian Ocean which crosses the country from one side to the other.

Offshore, several islands are worth a visit: in particular Nainativu and its temple Nagapooshani Amman, with the added bonus of Buddhist temples and a mosque.

Finally, the island of MannarFurther south, it straddles Palk Bay and the Gulf of Mannar. With its line of small islands and sandbanks extending from it, named Adam's Bridge, it separates the Palk Strait of the Gulf of Mannar, separating the Indian state of Tamil Nadu from the Jaffna peninsula.

nagapooshani amman hindu temple — Nagapooshani Amman Hindu temple on Nainativu island.

Jaffna

Jaffna Fort & old town
Temple Nallur kandaswamy
Markets & library (city symbol)

Islands off the coast of Jaffna

Nainativu : temple Nagapooshani Amman
Small Buddhist temples & mosques

Mannar

Strong, long wild beaches
Adam's Bridge (alignment of sandbanks)

Sri Lanka in brief

Colombo: Gangaramaya temple, Galle Face Green, diving spots, Mount Lavinia.
Galle: old fort, lighthouse, Unawatuna and Koggala beaches.
Tissamaharama: Raja Maha Vihara Stupa, Kirinda Vihara Maha Devi Temple, Yala National Park.
Highlands: tea plantations (Nuwara Eliya), Horton Plains National Park, Adam's Peak.
Kandy: Temple of the Tooth, lake, Udawatta Kele Sanctuary, Dunumadalawa Reserve.
Cultural Triangle: Dambulla, Sigiriya, Polonnaruwa, Anuradhapura.
East Coast: Trinquemalay (Hindu temples, Nilaveli beach), Batticaloa (Kallady beach, markets).
Jaffna: Peninsula and its islands, old fort, Hindu temples.

Sri Lanka landmarks on a map

Here is a personal map to locate and summarize all the important destinations and main places of interest in Sri Lanka:

Sri Lanka itinerary ideas

Sri Lanka is ideal for road trips, allowing you to travel reasonable distances, with diverse landscapes and a good balance between nature, culture, and beaches. Before suggesting itineraries based on the length of your stay, let me share our 12-day itinerary.

Our 12-day Itinerary

It was a journey that placed great emphasis on culture, particularly by visiting the major sites for any self-respecting Buddhist. It's not an itinerary that would suit everyone, partly because we were moving every day—a habit for us, as we have a thirst for discovery.

Ultimately, with only 12 days, we had to make choices, so we missed some "must-see" sites due to lack of time. Despite this, this itinerary gave us a good overview of the country.

Day 1 : arrival in Colombo → transfer to Galle
Day 2 Galle and surrounding area
Day 3 : bus → Ella
Day 4 Nuwara Eliya
Days 5–6 Kandy
Day 7 Dambulla
Day 8 : Polonnaruwa
Day 9 Anuradhapura
Day 10 Sigiriya
Day 11 : return to Colombo
Day 12 : Columbus

Trick To easily travel between Dambulla, Polonnaruwa, and Anuradhapura, we chose Dambulla because it's a city, so we had quick access to buses. If we were to do it again, we would have preferred to stay in Dambulla. Habarana as a base, the small locality being ideally located at a crossroads between these destinations, in addition to being close to the Minneriya reserve.

See my article for details of our itinerary

Other ideas depending on the duration

In short, I would say that to discover the country at a reasonable pace, you need to allow 15 days to see the essentials, and even then, you will obviously miss some destinations, but two weeks being a "standard" duration for stays abroad, it is a good starting point.

However, I offer you some "short" itineraries, for those who still want to get away from it all but don't have much time, and conversely, the long version to explore the country as a whole.

plantations the central highlands sri lanka

1 week – North Central (heritage)

In a nutshell Ancient cities and UNESCO sites, perfect for a first cultural experience.

Day 1 Colombo (arrival)
Days 2–3 Kandy (Temple of the Tooth, walk around the lake)
Day 4 Dambulla (caves)
Days 5–6 : Sigiriya (Lion Rock + Pidurangala)
Day 7 : safari at Minneriya or beach in Negombo → Colombo

1 week – Southern Loop & mountains

In a nutshell A combination of the historic coastline, the plantation train, and the holy city. This is the express version of our itinerary, without the cultural triangle.

Day 1 Colombo → Galle
Day 2 : Galle + beaches (Unawatuna / Koggala)
Days 3–4 Nuwara Eliya (scenic train from Ella if possible)
Days 5–6 Kandy
Day 7 Colombo's return

2 weeks – Classic loop (culture + nature)

In a nutshell : allows for the inclusion of a national park and more flexible stages.

Columbo (1 night)
Galle (2 nights)
Kataragama (2 nights) – Yala National Park (1 day)
Nuwara Eliya (2 nights)
Kandy (2 nights)
Dambulla (1 night)
Polonnaruwa (1 night)
Sigiriya (2 nights)
Anuradhapura (1 night)
Columbo (1 night)

Variant : visit Anuradhapura on a day trip from Sigiriya and add a night in Sigiriya.

1 month – Grand tour (beaches, highlands, cultural triangle, North & East)

In a nutshell : a complete overview with room to breathe.

Colombo (1 night)
Galle (2 nights)
mid-gama ou Mirissa (2 nights)
Kataragama (2 nights) – Yala (1 day)
Arugam Bay (2 nights) – Kudumbigala/Kumana (1 day)
Aralutalawa (2 nights) – Horton Plains / World's End
Nuwara Eliya (2 nights)
Maskeliya (2 nights) – Adam's Peak
Kandy (2 nights)
Batticaloa (2 nights)
Polonnaruwa (1 night)
Sigiriya (2 nights) – Dambulla (1 day)
Trincomalee (2 nights)
Jaffna (2 nights)
Anuradhapura (1 night)
Colombo (2 nights)

Indicative total : ~29 nights (1–2 nights margin for travel or extended rest).

Transportation: Getting there & getting around

Coming to Sri Lanka

Arrival is usually at the international airport Bandaranaike, located 30 km north of Colombo and right next to NegomboThat is why many travellers prefer to settle first on the beach in Negombo rather than starting with a direct visit to Colombo.

To date, there is no no direct flights between France and Sri Lanka. All journeys include at least one stopover.

Most convenient airlines from France

Three Gulf carriers generally offer the best compromise in terms of travel time and fares:

Etihad Airways – stopover in Abu Dhabi
Emirates – stopover in Dubai
Qatar Airways – stopover in Doha

These are three very good airlines. A stopover could even be an opportunity to briefly visit Abu Dhabi. Dubai or Doha (some offers sometimes include a free night stopover).

The best rates are generally around 450–500 € A/R.

stopover in Doha Qatar Airways — Stopover in Doha with Qatar Airways.

National Company

The national company SriLankan Airlines It operates primarily from Asia and the Middle East. It does not currently offer no direct flights from France, but provides convenient connections via:

Doha
Abu Dhabi
Kuala Lumpur
Singapore
Bangkok

It can therefore be used for a "regional" connection if you combine Sri Lanka with another Asian country.

Other possible companies

Oman Air – good value for money, stopover in Muscat
Turkish Airlines – via Istanbul, often competitive
Finnair – via Helsinki (depending on season)
Saudi Arabian Airlines – attractive fares but long layovers

In summary: for a first stay, the three Gulf companies remain the most convenient and fastest.

Search for a flight to Sri Lanka

Getting around in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka's road network is generally decent, but driving can be quite chaotic: frequent high-speed overtaking, quick honking, and buses that drive very fast. Nothing insurmountable, but it's good to be aware of it (to put things in perspective, the road fatality rate in Thailand is worse...).

The train remains an excellent alternative on certain sections, even if the network isn't as extensive as India's. For the rest, buses, taxis, tuk-tuks, and private transfers round out the options.

Road transport

The bus is the most common mode of transport in Sri Lanka. Local buses are very cheap, sometimes crowded, and the driving experience can be surprising at first. Air conditioning isn't always available, and comfort varies depending on the route. This is based on our experience, which was limited to local buses because our journeys generally didn't exceed three hours, but things may have changed somewhat since then…

For long journeys, there are more comfortable "intercity" buses, sometimes with online booking.

Useful platform (online booking): busseat.lk

Note: the cities displayed on these platforms are often the final destinations. You may need to take a long-distance bus (e.g., Colombo → Kataragama) to get off at an intermediate city (Galle, Matara, etc.).

Intercity bus (long distance)

In addition to regular public buses, Sri Lanka offers more comfortable "intercity" lines operated by private or semi-public companies. These are often air-conditioned, with numbered seats and more direct routes. This is the easiest option if you want to avoid the erratic driving of local buses.

Main companies:

NTC / SLTB Intercity — long distance public service (AC / Non-AC)
NEX Express — private, fairly reliable, air-conditioned buses
Superline — tourist buses, newer
Senura Express — several long-distance routes (South & East)

Examples of routes (indicative):

Colombo → Galle / Matara — 2.5 to 3 hours • 300–600 Rs depending on service
Colombo → Kandy — 3:30 to 4:30 AM • 300–500 Rs (AC slightly more expensive)
Colombo → Trincomalee — 6am to 7am • 600–1,000 Rs
Colombo → Jaffna — 8am to 9am • 800–1,000 Rs
Kandy → Batticaloa — 5:30 a.m. • approx. 600–900 Rs

Good to know:

Intercity buses are much more stable and less "sporty" than local buses.
The schedules are more reliable, but not down to the minute.
The air conditioning can be strong: bring a sweater.
Intermediate stops are limited → perfect for long journeys.

Taxis and tuk-tuks (trishaws)

In cities, the trishaw (tuk-tuk) reigns supreme. For short distances, it's the most practical option. For a day trip (Polonnaruwa, Anuradhapura, etc.), drivers often offer a reasonable flat rate.

Indicative prices : an urban journey often costs between 300 and 600 Rs depending on the distance.

For Colombo, two apps are really useful:

Uber — taxis and tuk-tuks
PickMe — main local application (tuk-tuks + taxis)

For longer journeys, private transfers are convenient and safer than buses:
Useful comparison : Sri Lanka Taxi Share

tuk tuk traffic colombo sri lanka — A tuk tuk in traffic in Colombo upon arriving in Sri Lanka.

Motorcycle & car rental

Scooter rental is possible in tourist areas like Galle, Ella, or Mirissa. However, it is not recommended if you are not used to driving in Asia or do not have the appropriate international driving permit.

Renting a car without a driver is not recommended: driving can be difficult, road signs are inconsistent, and overtaking is frequent. Hiring a driver is more sensible, especially for mountainous routes.

Rail transport

The railway network spans approximately 1,500 km and provides good service to the main tourist areas. If I had to summarize the Sri Lankan railway, I would define it in three points:

Modest network, superb scenery, modest speeds.

The Sri Lankan rail network is proportionally much smaller than that of its neighbor, India, and often single-track: expect some average speeds of 35–55 km/h according to the lines. The journeys in the Hill country (teas, viaducts) are slow but among the most
beautiful people from Asia.

Sri Lanka train network map — The railway network in Sri Lanka.

There are no subways or trams in Sri Lanka. Urban transport relies solely on buses, suburban trains (around Colombo), and tuk-tuks. The Colombo light rail (LRT) project was abandoned in 2021.

Main lines

Colombo → Kandy → Nuwara Eliya (Nanu Oya) → Ella → Badulla
A legendary route through the tea plantations.
Colombo → Anuradhapura → Jaffna
Ideal for reaching the north and the former capitals.
Colombo → Polonnaruwa → Trincomalee / Batticaloa
Very busy during the summer, the high season on the East Coast.
Colombo → Galle → Matara
Coastal line with sea views for several tens of kilometers.

train journey nuwara eliya - kandy - sri lanka

scenic landscape train mountains sri lanka

Classes & comfort on board

1st Class Reserved seats, air conditioning (depending on the train)
2nd Class reserved or unreserved seats
3rd class unreserved, very local seating

Examples of travel times (order of magnitude)

Colombo ⇄ Kandy : ~2h30–3h30 (express), longer by local bus.
Kandy ⇄ Ella (via Nanu Oya/Badulla): ~6–7h, very scenic.
Colombo ⇄ Ella (via Kandy/Badulla): ~8–10 hours in total.
Colombo ⇄ Galle/Matara (south coast): ~2–3h / ~3–4h.
Colombo ⇄ Jaffna : ~5:30–7:00 depending on stops.
Colombo ⇄ Trincomalee : ~5:30–7:30.
Colombo ⇄ Anuradhapura : ~3:30–5:00.
Colombo ⇄ Nanu Oya (Nuwara Eliya) : ~4:30–6:00.

What to expect at the station

Medium-sized stations, sometimes basic ticket counters and variable displays. Arrive early for unreserved seats (2^e/3^e) and locate
your car if you have a numbered reservation.

Convenient : book scenic and InterCity trains in advance (High season, weekends). To optimize time on major flat routes (e.g. Colombo ⇄ Jaffna), the express bus may be faster, but the train remains more comfortable and scenic.

Reservations & tickets

The official website still does not offer online booking. Several private options exist:

Shipping

With its 1,340 km of coastline, the island includes 6 main ports:

Columbo
Galle
Hambantota
Kankesanthurai (Jaffna)
PointPedro
Trincomalee

One might assume that, given Sri Lanka is an island, there would be ferry connections somewhere, if only to reach its Indian neighbor. While a Sri Lanka-India ferry (Tuticorin) did exist for a time, it was discontinued over 30 years ago. Several discussions are underway to revive the service, but nothing is operational to date.

So in summary, in Sri Lanka, there is currently no no regular ferry service between coastal cities.

fishing boat unawatuna beach south sri lanka — Except for fishing, this boat is going nowhere...

Air transport

The country has several airports, but only a few are of real tourist interest. However, given the country's size (less than 400 km long), this mode of transport is unlikely to be used during a typical stay in Sri Lanka.

But I like to be thorough, so here is the essential information you need to know.

Companies operating domestic flights:

Most domestic flights are operated with small aircraft or seaplanes.

Cinnamon Air — Main domestic airline, scheduled and charter flights (Sigiriya, Koggala, Kandy, etc.). Magnificent aerial views, but high prices.
FitsAir — a few domestic flights (Ratmalana ↔ Batticaloa), light fleet.
Helitours — helicopters and small planes operated by the army, occasional flights depending on availability.

SriLankan Airlines is not currently operating no regular domestic connectionIts flights are exclusively international.

cinnamonair-route-map — Map of destinations served by the Cinnamon Air company.

Major international airports

Colombo – Bandaranaike (CMB)
Colombo – Ratmalana (RML)
Hambantota – Mattala (HRI)
Jaffna – JAF
Batticaloa – BTC

Main airports for domestic flights

Sigiriya (GIU)
Anuradhapura (ACJ)
Koggala (KCT) – for Galle
China Bay (TRR) – Trincomalee

Book a hotel in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka offers a wide enough range of hotels to suit every taste. There are quite a few good options in the 400-800 ฿ (12-24 €) range, which is very reasonable. In our case, we treated ourselves towards the end of our trip.

First, a €50 hotel in Sirigiya, which has changed its name since our visit to become the Kumbukgaha VillaIt certainly had a "luxury" feel, but it was a bit isolated. We then stayed in a €45 hotel in Colombo, but it seems to have since closed down…

Which neighborhood should I choose in Colombo?

Colombo 03 (Kollupitiya) — Central location, quick access to the seafront, shopping centers, easy transport. Convenient for a first night.
Colombo 01 (Fort / Pettah) — near Fort station, useful if you're taking an early morning train. Lively area, markets, old colonial architecture.
Colombo 05 (Havelock Town) — more residential and quiet, good places to eat, well located for exploring by tuk-tuk.
Mount Lavinia — by the sea, more relaxed. A good option if you want to avoid the hustle and bustle of the city center while still being close to Colombo.
Negombo (outside Colombo) — next to the international airport. Ideal for a late arrival or an early morning departure.

Tip: To limit traffic jams, aim for accommodation close to your activities or near a train station if you plan to use the train.

After that, in the budget options, we had some nice places like Unawatuna (near Galle), and some not so great ones like Dambulla where the place clearly lacked cleanliness… In Kandy, I wanted to be away from the center for some peace and quiet. We were at the far end of the lake, at Settle Inn Tourist Lodge, a reference at the time for Kandy. It was indeed in a quiet corner and surrounded by nature.

If I had to choose today, I'd go for a slightly cozier option: the Kandy City Oasis Hotel.

Getting back to our best option for the stay, which remains the top choice if you don't need to stay in Galle, I've put all the information in the dedicated box below:

Below is a summary of the best accommodation tips I learned from this trip:

Sam's Guest House

Note: 9,1 / 10

Budget: from 18€

The hotel is not far from Unawatuna Beach. Galle is 7 km away. The welcome and the room were excellent for the price; even better, the hotel, in addition to maintaining its reputation, had recently given the rooms a welcome refresh! As a bonus, we were able to rent a scooter, which allowed us to easily access Galle Fort and explore the surrounding area.

Learn more and book Sam's Guest House

terrace-sam-guesthouse-unawatuna — I didn't think to book the room; I didn't have that reflex back then, so I only have the terrace…

To book a hotel in Sri Lanka, please use the search tool:

Budget & cost of living

Change : The Sri Lankan rupee (LKR, symbol Rs). Banknotes range from Rs 20 to Rs 5,000. The most commonly used denominations are 50 / 100 / 500 / 1000The exchange rate, which for a long time remained below 200 Sri Lankan Rupees for 1 €, has exploded in recent years and is on average around 1 € = 350 Rs.

Conversion reference (indicative) : for quick mental calculation, divide the price by 30, e.g. “100 Rs ≈ €0,30”.

Quick examples – 500 Rs ≈ €1,50 • 1,000 Rs ≈ €3 • 3,000 Rs ≈ €9

Cards (Visa/Mastercard) : well accepted in mid-range and high-end hotels and restaurants; small commissions possible.
Local species : indispensable in buses, small restaurants, guesthouses, markets.
ATM : very frequent; fees may vary depending on local bank (often Rs 200–400).
QR/mobile payment : local system (LankaQR) → reserved for Sri Lankan accounts.
Change : avoid damaged bills; keep some small change for tuk-tuks and snacks.

Trick : keep an envelope with the 50/100/500 Rs one for current expenses, and another with large bills for accommodation.

Price benchmarks

Accommodation

Small budget (single guesthouses / local rooms): €10–25 (≈ Rs 3,200–8,000)
Medium (2–3★, boutique hotels): €30–60 (≈ Rs 9,500–19,000)
Comfort/Luxury (4–5★, resorts): €80 and + (≈ Rs 25,000 +)

Meals & drinks

Local rice and curry : €1,5–3 (≈ Rs 500–1,000)
Small air-conditioned restaurant : €4–8 (≈ Rs 1,200–2,500)
International Restaurant : €10–20 (≈ Rs 1,200–2,500)
Café : 1,2–2,5 € (≈ Rs 400–800) • Water 1 L : 0,3–0,5 € (≈ Rs 100–160)
Alcohol Local beer €2–3,5 (≈ Rs 600–1200), expensive wine (high taxes)

Transport

Local buses €0,10–0,40 (≈ Rs 40–150) depending on distance
Tuk-tuk 1,5–4 € (≈ Rs 500–1,200) per standard trip
Trains €1–5 (≈ Rs 300–1,600) depending on class and route
Car + driver (8 hours) : €35–55 (≈ Rs 1,200–2,500)
Domestic flight : 40–100 €

Key activities (orders of magnitude)

Sigiriya : ≈ €30 (≈ Rs 9,000)
Polonnaruwa : ≈ €25 (≈ Rs 9,000)
Dambulla : ≈ €8 (≈ Rs 9,000)
Safari Minneriya / Kaudulla €25–40 depending on Jeep/shared rental
Train Ella → Kandy €1,5–10 depending on class
Whale watching Mirissa : 25–45 €

Note: Prices vary depending on the season, tourist area, and availability (especially on the South Coast Dec.–Feb.). Book scenic trains (Kandy–Ella) and safaris in advance.

For data updated by city (rent, restaurants, groceries…), check out Numbeo, e.g. for Columbo.

Typical budgets (Sri Lanka)

/ day 15 days 1 months

Small budget

20–30 €(Rs 6,000–10,000)

Guesthouse/dormitory, rice & curry, local buses / 2nd class trains.

Hosting8–12 €

Meals6–9 €

Transport2–4 €

Extras2–5 €

Simple comfort, slow journeys, good for lowering daily costs.

Recommended

Average budget

30–55 €(Rs 6,000–10,000)

Clean double room, local restaurants and cafes, punctual tuk-tuks

Hosting15–28 €

Meals8–15 €

Transport4–7 €

Extras3–5 €

Good comfort/price ratio in the Cultural Triangle, South and East during the season.

Comfortable

60–120 €(Rs 6,000–10,000)

4-5 star hotels / boutique hotels, private transfers, guided activities

Hosting35–80 €

Meals12–25 €

Transport8–15 €

Extras5–10 €

To save time, reduce fatigue and have fun.

Small budget

300–450 €(Rs 6,000–10,000)

Recommended

Average budget

450–825 €(Rs 6,000–10,000)

Comfortable

€900–1,800(Rs 6,000–10,000)

Small budget

600–900 €(Rs 6,000–10,000)

Recommended

Average budget

€900–1,800(Rs 6,000–10,000)

Comfortable

1–800 €(Rs 600 000–1 200 000)

Health and safety

Sri Lanka remains a generally safe and welcoming destination, but as everywhere in South Asia, some health precautions and common sense are necessary for a worry-free trip.

Travel insurance — is it really necessary?

Travel insurance can clearly make a difference in case of a problem. If you're going to Asia for several weeks or months, dedicated insurance is highly recommended: bank card insurance coverage is limited.

Medical expenses via standard credit card: often limited to ~€10,000
Dedicated travel insurance: up to ~€10,000 + civil liability

I recommend you Heymondo Travel Insurance (5% discount via my link).

Transparency: if you subscribe via this link, I will receive a small commission — at no extra cost to you.

Vaccines and health recommendations

No vaccinations are mandatory to enter Sri Lanka, but several are recommended depending on the length of your stay and your travel style. In all cases, make sure you are up-to-date on your routine vaccinations (DTP, MMR).

Recommended vaccines:

Hepatitis A
Hepatitis B
Rage
Typhoid
Antituberculosis
Japanese encephalitis (prolonged rural stay, wet season)

Mosquitoes and other small insects

A good insect repellent is essential. Dengue fever remains present, particularly in the districts of Colombo, Gampaha, Kalutara, Galle, Matara, Ratnapura, and Kegalle. Cases of chikungunya have also been reported.

Opt for trousers rather than shorts in the evening.
Use repellents on skin and clothing
Install a mosquito net when possible.

Good news: Malaria has been officially eradicated since 2016 (WHO).

Another local risk: the cutaneous leishmaniasisTransmitted by midges in the evening/night. Rare, but present.

In Sigiriya, a sign warns of the possible presence of hornetsThey can sometimes become aggressive if the noise is too loud. Respect them!

Hygiene in Sri Lanka

Hygiene standards are comparable to other South Asian countries. Digestive problems are common if you are sensitive. Here are some basic precautions:

Wash your hands regularly (effective antibacterial solution)
Don't drink never Tap water: bottled or boiled/filtered water
Eat meat, fish and seafood that is thoroughly cooked.
Avoid swimming in stagnant water
Avoid touching stray animals
Helmet on two-wheelers, seatbelt in cars: universal rules

To put in your kit: antiseptics, digestive treatments, mosquito repellent, sunscreen, burn cream.

Security in Sri Lanka

Since the end of the civil war, the situation has been generally stable. The 2019 attacks were an isolated incident. As everywhere, avoid unplanned political or religious gatherings.

In our experience, we have never felt unsafe.

Common scams and frauds

Most of the reported incidents involve petty crime in tourist areas:

Flights in buses, trains or seaside guesthouses
Motorcycle snatch thefts in some cities
There have been some cases of sexual assault, as in India: be careful at night, especially when alone.