Sri Lanka is a country that has surprised me with its cultural richness, its varied landscapes and the kindness of its people. It must be said that originally, I had not particularly planned a stay on the "resplendent island", one of its nicknames.
But when the opportunity presented itself, it was done with a route from the southern beaches up to the cultural triangle, formed by the ancient historic cities of Dambulla, Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa (and this includes the famous lion rock of Sigiriya).
Sri Lanka is separated from India by only a 31 km strait, so it is not surprising that cultural similarities are found on this small stretch of the Indian Ocean. (well not that small either, the island is roughly 435 km long and 225 km at its widest).
Over the centuries, it has been given a variety of equally eloquent names: the emerald island, the pearl of the Orient, Serendib or ruby island. Its other current nickname is the Tear of India, due to its ambiguous shape, like a tear lost at the foot of the Indian giant.
But it is above all the name of the island of Ceylon that Sri Lanka is still known by today, due to its history and its repeated colonization.
In fact, it has also experienced the same historical procession as Indonesia and Malaysia in terms of colonies, becoming in turn under Portuguese, Dutch and then British domination. (yes them again…). These are also the British who will develop what today makes the island famous in the central mountains, the tea plantations, and it is incidentally to them that we owe the railway network (I specify that I do not say this in the form of "thanks" but simply that they are the initiators of these projects, still visible today).
The country has only very recently opened up to tourism (less than 10 years especially) due to a long civil war which tore apart the northern part of the country, dominated by the Tamils, but the latter being a minority compared to the overall population of the island, which is mainly Sinhalese.
Some historians indicate that the English applied the principle of " divide and rule " by opposing these two ethnic groups, through the policy of " representation by committee", introduced at the beginning of the 20th century. True or not, the conflict between the government and the armed movement of the Tamil Tigers was very real.
This civil war lasted for almost 30 years between 1972 and 2009, when the leader of the movement was killed after a vast military operation which cornered the Tamil resistance. (The LTTE for Liberation Tigers of Tamil Ealam in English) in the north of the country. Since then, the country is in full reconstruction. Composed of three-quarters Sinhalese (sometimes spelled Cinhalais) and the remaining quarter Tamils, the latter were already despised before the war and are still as much so now. (they are the ones who harvest the tea).
"Sri Lankan fishing boats on Unawatuna beach"
“The Central Plains as seen from the Dambulla Caves”
Sri Lanka remains nonetheless a welcoming country and has the advantage of concentrating different types of landscapes in a fairly restricted area. (almost 10 times more small than France or Thailand).
It is an island, so there are many beaches, most of which are still untouched by mass tourism and therefore lined with beautiful coconut trees rather than luxury hotels.
In the center, there are mountains, dotted with tea plantations, while further north, you can visit the area known as the cultural triangle, bringing together several ancient capitals and cities of former importance.
Here is a summary of some essential information to know before any stay in Sri Lanka.
No but… Things have changed. Since August 1, 2019, Nationals of 48 countries are exempt from visas if the stay does not does not exceed 30 days.
This includes the 28 countries of the European Union, including, of course, France, Belgium or Luxembourg, but this also includes 20 other countries, including Canada and Switzerland (and Thailand too). However, there remains necessary to obtain a prior ETA (Electronic Travel Authorization), which has become chargeable again since the non-extension of its free service which operated until February 1, 2020. It is therefore necessary to pay the $35 fee, which is practically the same as getting a visa in short...
If you are Algerian, Moroccan or Tunisian, you can get a visa on arrival, but it is still necessary to obtain ETA (also paid and same rate).
To apply for an ETA, there is only one site, the official one, all the others are intermediaries likely to ask for unnecessary additional fees: https://eta.gov.lk/etaslvisa/etaNavServ
If you want to stay for more than 30 days (and up to 90 days), you will need to enter the country with a paid ETA. This is requested like a regular visa, namely by going to the Sri Lankan embassy in your country of residence.
Alternatively, it is still possible to leave with the visa exemption + free ETA and apply for an extension once there. You must then go to the immigration office (see official website) in Colombo.
Finally, like any country I know of, you must have a passport with a validity period of at least 6 months after the date of entry. It may be required to have proof of a return ticket (or failing that, outgoing to another country) as well as having to prove sufficient resources for the duration of the stay (but I do not know the amount required in this case).
If your visit is for other than tourist purposes, you should inquire and apply for the appropriate visa.
It is advisable to know the rules regarding import/export and the quantities that can be brought into Sri Lanka in terms of cash, liquor, etc.
To summarize, tourists can import duty free (duty-free) up to $125 for goods purchased abroad and up to $187,5 specifically for goods purchased at the airport duty-free upon arrival in Sri Lanka.
You are limited to two bottles of wine, one and a half liters of spirits, ¼ L of eau de toilette and perfumes and souvenirs in small quantities, all with a value less than or equal to $250.
The import/export of the following items is regulated : gold, jewelry, precious stones and metals, alcohol (spirits and wines), cosmetics, medicines, telecommunications equipment, foreign currency over $15 or equivalent (if you plan to re-export an amount equal to or greater than $000, the entire amount must be declared). Restrictions also apply to animals and plants (including parts), certain wooden objects, firearms, ammunition, air pistols, explosives (including fireworks), all items whose importation is subject to obtaining a permit.
The importation of the following items is prohibited : narcotics, psychotropic drugs, medicines or chemical precursors, pornographic materials, religious literature, cigarettes.
The export of the following items is prohibited : antiques, statues, national treasures, old books, animals, birds and reptiles (living or dead), tea plants (yes!), rubber and coconut trees.
Your arrival will normally be via the international airport Bandaranaike. The latter is located 30 km north of Colombo, but right next to the small seaside town of Negombo. Hence the fact that many travellers prefer to stop there first on the beach upon arrival rather than visiting the capital.
For this destination, we have selected 3 Gulf companies, offering the best time/cost compromises but with minimum one stopover (as far as I know, there is no direct flight from Paris to Colombo).
These three companies are:
These are all excellent companies with in order a stopover in Abu Dhabi for Etihad, Dubai for Emirates and Doha for Qatar. This is possibly an opportunity to stop there (that's what I did in visiting Dubai once with Emirates, note that there are sometimes promotions with free nights if you stay at least 48 hours).
Normally, the rates are around 450-500 € for the best rates.
There are of course other companies that might be of interest. I can cite the excellent Singapore Airlines, but also Cathay Pacific or even Thai Airways, but tell yourself that the stopovers will be in their respective countries of origin, so a big detour... More interesting, there is Oman Air, Turkish Airlines, Finnair and possibly Saudi Arabian Airlines (even if the latter offers fairly long stopovers and not the most comfortable despite sometimes very advantageous prices).
The road network is not the best but that is not really the problem in Sri Lanka (the roads are tarmacked and generally not broken up), the problem comes from the driving, which has a strong tendency to be erratic... And yet, I am used to a certain chaos with Thailand… The bus drivers are in a sort of permanent race, overtaking at all costs, they honk their horns like Indians, in short, it's not always a joy. Fortunately, on certain routes, there is the train which allows you to admire the landscapes without jolts, but the network does not extend to the whole country, the bus remains the essential cheap alternative.
On site, you will generally have tuk tuk and taxis to make your trips. Personally, true to my habit, I even tried renting a scooter in Galle, but I don't particularly recommend it if you are neither used to two-wheelers nor to driving in other countries.
Our experience is limited to small local buses. Hence my impression of being a “madman” behind the wheel. As an aside, shortly after we left Colombo, I found myself with an urgent need like never before. So much so that I wanted to jump off the bus for one stop. (train passing, fire, other) but I didn't dare, being afraid that the latter would leave without me!
Fortunately, the distances to be covered are not too great, the journeys do not exceed on average 3 hours. Fortunately, since each time we didn't have air conditioning, the seats, without being uncomfortable either, were not luxury, and sometimes the buses were crowded. (when you didn't have to stand).
I suspect that for longer journeys, buses have a certain comfort and a driver, I imagine more reasonable. This is what I get from looking at local online booking sites, including one that works below:
Using this site can be restrictive, as you need to know at least a little bit about how it works. By this I mean that generally you will only find the main cities in the destination lists, without any indication of possible stages/stops, while I think that the journeys are not necessarily direct.
And if I take a concrete example, to make a trip Colombo – Galle by bus, typically, you will have to take a bus to Kataragama, the latter normally running along the coast with stops in certain towns which could include Galle, but this needs to be checked! The small local buses are more intended for making journeys between intermediate towns.
Taxis are mostly found in big cities, otherwise the Tuk tuk is king. Well tuk tuk, that's the name I'm used to, because locally they are rather called trishaw. In our case, we only used a taxi to get there de airport to Colombo bus terminal upon arrival. Normally the fare starts at 60 Rs then 50 Rs per km. Suffice to say that it is a given since a quick calculation tells you that a 10 km journey should not cost you more than 600 Rs or 3 €…
I am writing this, but I don't remember having paid so little, after checking, I confirm... Between the airport of Bandaranaike and the bus terminal where we were going (to take us straight to Galle), it was about 30 km, so we would have had to pay around 1 Rs while we paid 2 Rs... Of course, we are talking about a difference of €4, but that represents 50% more than the normal rate, so be careful. Furthermore, I don't remember seeing a counter there, hence the random number.
For Colombo, you also have the option of using Uber (at download on android here et from the Apple Store here) but also a local application PickMe, which also works for tuk-tuks! (available on Android)
For long journeys, it is also possible to take a taxi if you want a slightly safer transport than the bus, you can calculate the cost of a route via this site: Sri Lanka Taxi Share
We come to the Tuk tuk, which you will find everywhere, which remains very practical even if given their comfort, it goes without saying that they are to be preferred for short distances.
It remains possible to doing also call on them to visit a site for the day (what we had done to Polonnaruwa et Anuradhapura where we got away with Rs 1 and Rs 700 respectively)From our account book, I remember that we paid an average of Rs 400 per trip, but the distances varied between 2 km and up to 8 km.
The only city where I tried a scooter (knowing that I am already used to the Asian driving style), it's in Galle. The reason being that our hotel was away from the old town (beach side)Unawatuna) and rather than calling on a Tuk tuk, it seemed cheaper to me to rent a two-wheeler to be able to explore the area as well. In this case, it cost us 900 Rs the machine plus 600 Rs of gasoline, so a chouïa cheaper than renting a Tuk tuk at the day (yes, I'm nitpicking).
If it was okay because we weren't doing long distances (the furthest we have gone is between Galle and Koggala, it's 15 km), I don't particularly recommend renting a car. It seems to me more reasonable in this case to call a driver.
Besides probably being more safe, this is a plus, saving time, freedom of movement and new places depending on the driver's knowledge, after all, it's a service, so it's more expensive than managing by public transport. For this last option, I can only recommend the Caroline's info page, the Sri Lanka specialist.
Sri Lanka has 1 km of railway network, which is pretty good considering its size. (it is proportionally much better than the Thailand). After the train is not particularly renowned for its comfort, but for the landscapes it offers. The journey between Ella and Kandy is considered one of the most scenic train journeys in the world. The problem is that in high season, it can be difficult to find even a seat given the popularity of this means of transport.
There are essentially two types of diesel locomotives (no electrified line to date) for intercity journeys, the red ones, the classic Sri Lankan trains and the blue ones (Chinese-built). If the official website divides its network into 3 large regions, we can define the following lines:
It should also be noted that there is a suburban train in the northern part of Colombo, connecting Negombo - Mount Avalanche and Puttalam. It is a fairly slow train, as it makes many stops, but it can still be convenient for getting to towns near Colombo.
It is unfortunately not possible to book tickets in advance directly through the official Sri Lanka website at this time. Railways (which hasn't been updated in years). There are, however, alternatives.
As is often the case, several classes are distinguished (First, Second et Third ), the first being by compulsory reservation, the second includes both seats reserved and unreserved. Finally, 3rd class only has seats without advance reservation. That's what we had taken since we had bought our tickets the day before to travel between Ella and Nanu Oya (Nuwara Eliya) for an unbeatable price of 800 Rs per person (4 €).
Sri Lanka being an island, one could easily imagine a ferry network serving various destinations. In reality, it is quite different…
There are at least 6 major ports:
But there is no boat connection via these cities. And if there was previously a ferry service connecting Sri Lanka to India, it is notis no longer the case since the civil war (so more than 30 years). This service had been revived around 2010/2011, when the war was not yet over, and it was interrupted again after a few months of operations.
As I write these lines, with peace apparently stable, there are talks between the two countries to put this ferry back into service.
There are about twenty airports in the country but many have a primarily military role even if domestic flights are also carried out there. There are 5 international airports, including two in Colombo alone, in alphabetical order with city - airport name and IATA code:
Beat it is a small seaside town in the south of Trincomalee in the east of the country, Hambantota is a small town that was badly hit by the 2004 tsunami, now becoming a major new port in the region and the opening of the new airport in 2013 demonstrates the ambitions to transform this region into a new attraction. Finally Jaffna is the main city in the north of the country, with a Tamil majority.
Among the interesting domestic airports from a point of view view tourism, we can cite Anuradhapura Airport (ACJ), Sigiriya Airport (DOWN), Koggala Airport (KCT, service Gall), Kandy (a new airport is under construction, because to date, the journey is made by seaplane since it lands in the reservoir of Polgolla or the dam lake Victoria), China Bay Airport (TRR, serving Trincomalee).
There are also a large number of " waterdrome", meaning lakes and reservoirs of water suitable for landing with small seaplanes.
The country being quite small, domestic flights are more than limited and will be of little interest to the average traveler. I understand that there are mainly companies offering charter planes and secondary airports with fairly short runways. (less than 2 m for the most part), flights are operated with small planes (kind Cessna).
For internal flights we can mention these two companies:
The range of hotels in Sri Lanka is wide enough to find what you are looking for. There are quite a few interesting hotels in the 400-800 Learn More (€12-24), which is, all in all, very reasonable. In our case, we treated ourselves at the end of the trip with a hotel for €50 for Sirigiya and €45 for Colombo.
After in the cheap ones, we had some nice ones like at Unawatuna (next to Galle) and at least as good as at Dambulla where the place clearly lacks cleaning (and yet, we stayed 3 nights!). The best plan was that of Kandy, not too far from the lake and in a quiet corner surrounded by nature. Below I summarize the good tips I got from this stay in terms of accommodation:
Travel insurance can often make a difference in the outcome of an unexpected mishap while traveling abroad. And especially if you are going on a trip of several months in Asia, good insurance can be more than welcome, because credit card insurance is limited.
The maximum amount for healthcare costs covered by traditional credit cards may prove insufficient (around €10 compared to €000 for dedicated travel insurance) and does not cover civil liability.
I advise you ACS Travel & Expatriation Insurance Solutions.
I would like to point out that if you subscribe to the insurance via the link, I would receive a small commission. This is a simple way to help keep the site running, as insurance is preferable anyway and will therefore be beneficial to both you and me.
We find practically the same recommendations as for many other Asian countries, namely basically, no compulsory vaccinations, but several are recommended.
As a matter of principle, be up to date with your standard vaccinations (DTP for adults, MMR for children). Then, depending on local travel conditions (extended stay in the countryside for example) :
The Japanese encephalitis vaccine is especially necessary in the event of a prolonged stay in rural areas. The latter being transmitted by mosquitoes, especially at the start of the rainy season, protection against them is particularly important.
A good mosquito repellent will not be too much in Sri Lanka, it is the best protection to avoid possible viruses transmitted by them.
These viruses include dengue fever, which is most commonly found in the districts of Colombo, Gampaha, Kalutara, Galle, Matara, Ratnapura and Kegalle. Chikungunya has also been reported in Colombo and Kandy, among others.
Prevention against mosquito bites remains your best asset, so protect your skin, but also your clothes, by smearing yourself with repellent. Favor pants over shorts, long sleeves in the forests or at nightfall.
One piece of good news in all this is that malaria has been considered eradicated from Sri Lanka since 2016 according to the WHO.
If you develop a fever during your trip, do not hesitate to contact medical services.
A local peculiarity is a risk of cutaneous leishmaniasis, a parasitic disease transmitted by a sand fly or midge which bites especially in the evening and at night. This infection results in skin lesions that can develop on the face and body (especially the arms).
A risk specific to Sigiriya, and also indicated by signs, is the possible presence of hornets, which can be particularly aggressive when there is too much noise.
Hygiene conditions are average for South Asia. That is to say, below European standards. This could cause stomach upset if you are not used to changing your diet and have rather sensitive intestines. There is always have hygiene precautions to take to avoid any problems.
And general hygiene rules:
Useful in your kit:
– antiseptics
– treatments for intestinal disorders
- mosquito repellent
– sun creams
– creams for burns
While the country has experienced a deadly attack targeting mainly churches in Colombo, Negombo et Beat it, in April 2019, the risk is no higher than elsewhere. Since the end of the civil war, the country has experienced a certain stability and possible tensions. intercommunity remain possible, the main thing is to stay away from possible gatherings (except public celebrations or ceremonies).
As soon as you are in a tourist area, there is always a risk of petty crime, especially theft. Be careful with your belongings on long journeys by train, bus and in some seaside guest houses. Cases of snatching by people riding motorcycles have also been reported.
Similar to In India, although the cases are less, cases of sexual assault and even rape are sometimes reported. As a matter of principle, avoid walking alone at night in places where there are few people.
From our personal experience, we felt no danger nor encountered any problems.
Several risks specific to Sri Lanka can be distinguished:
– Emergency numbers –
Hospitals in Colombo
Other hospitals:
French Embassy in Sri Lanka (and Maldives):
Let us summarize here the main attractions of sri lanka, which can be cut into six regions.
If we start with the city of your arrival, Colombo, we can mention the unmissable places which are the Buddhist temple Gangaramaya, the surroundings of the lake Beira and Galle Face Green, the square along the seafront.
Further west of the city, north of the capital (Cone), you have the pretty temple of Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara, but it must be generally admitted that the area lacks the appeal to linger there for longer.
This is also why people largely prefer to go directly to Negombo, north of Colombo. This small seaside town has the advantage of being located right next to the international airport (Bandaranaike), this makes it a destination of choice for arrivals, preferring to settle on the beach rather than in town.
Outside the city, precisely, Cote oblige, there is no shortage of seaside resorts. Already, from Colombo even, we can access several diving spots (Gorgonian Gardens for experienced divers, the wreck of the British steamer SS Perseus or the atypical wreck of the Thermophylae Sierra to name but a few).
Still close to Colombo, we can mention Mount Lavinia and its beach. Moving a little further away, I can mention bentota and its wild coast, an area also suitable for diving. Just before arriving there, you can stop at the imposing fishing port and its fish market of Beruwela, then take a tour of the local temple of Kande Viharaya.
Going much further north, Puttalam is the most interesting destination. Not the city as such, but the region, because in addition to the historical aspect present with in particular the presence of an old Dutch fort (strong Kalpitiya), it is a peninsula housing a lagoon, bordered by sand dunes and beaches. It is a good area for kite surfing enthusiasts and there are also diving spots renowned for its coral reef.
Again, there is no shortage of beaches, but if there is one area to remember, it is between Galle and Matara. Well already Galle is definitely one of the must-see places in Sri Lanka. The old town delimited by the fort is full of charm, the seaside with its lighthouse also keeps watch. And it's all part of the Unesco World Heritage, it's not for nothing.
You can relax on the nearby Unawatuna beach, and going further, see traditional fishermen on their poles around Koggala. Before reaching Matara, the main town in the area, I can mention the beautiful Midigama beach, but also that of Coconut Beach, also known for seeing fishermen (the latter “officiating” mainly early in the morning and sometimes in the evening).
Finally, there is also the large bay of Never who make as many beach stops along this coast forming the southern tip of the country. More lively, you have Mirissa beach. Before joining tissamaharama ou Kataragama, you can always make a last seaside stop at Tangalle for example. tissamaharama et Kataragama being two small towns that can serve as a base for to go to the popular national park of Yala. This park is one of the most important in terms of concentration of fauna in Sri Lanka, wild elephants, leopards, crocodiles, you name it.
I will start with un other site UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Forest Reserve of Sinharaja (meaning the “kingdom of the lion”). This forest located not far from the border with the southeastern province is considered the last viable area of primary rainforest of the country, making it a refuge for several endemic animal species and rich in biodiversity.
Then, if in our case on was passing through Ella, it was for take the train to Nuwara Eliya, a route renowned for its mountain scenery between tea plantations. But with more time, we could have also explored the surrounding area, like going to the waterfall of ravana If (which we could see, because the latter is located directly on the edge of the main road going towards the town) but also little Adam's peak (referring to the "real" peak, further west from here).
In the central mountains area, a circle of about 20 km in diameter could be defined starting from the small town of Hatton, where a good number of points of interest are concentrated and whose region defined as the Central Highlands (Central Highlands) are integrated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Starting with Nuwara Eliya and its tea plantations, where we had stopped. North of the city is the summit of the country, the Pidurutalagala (or Mount Pedro for English speakers), culminating at more than 2 m. In the south-east corner, there is the Horton Plains National Park, renowned for its nature hikes and numerous waterfalls.
One of these hikes passes through Chimmney Pool, a natural pool in the middle of the plains, and joins the Baker's Falls waterfall before climbing the Great World's End Drop, a cliff overlooking Horton Plains. If you take a little detour, you can walk around the area called "Devil's Stair" (the "devil's stairs"). Besides the tea plantations, there are several waterfalls like that of Bambarakanda Falls and Lanka Ella Waterfall. You also have the atypical rock of Galapita Gala and while walking along the mountainside, you can see the Nagadowa Falls and Uduwara Falls on these steep slopes.
To the southwest this time of Hatton, we find the site of adam peak (also called Peak Wilderness Sanctuary), other UNESCO World Heritage Site. Adam's Peak or Sri Pada, (meaning " sacred imprint”), has been an important place of pilgrimage for a millennium. At the top of the mountain (culminating at 2 m) There is a monastery that houses what Buddhists believe to be the footprint of Buddha, while Christians and Muslims revere it as that of Adam when he was sent to earth. The Hindus, for their part, la nicknamed “Shiva’s Peak”. In short, no less than 4 of the most important religions make the journey to Sri Lanka to climb the sacred mountain, mainly from December to May.
I note in passing that from the Sinharaja reserve to Horton Plains, you can make an interesting stop to see the Maduwanwela Walawwa Palace.
Going further north, you arrive at Kandy, famous for its lake, but especially its temple of the tooth, the latter housing a sacred relic which is said to be a tooth of Buddha himself. If we add the Udawatta Kele Sanctuary, and Dunumadalawa Forest Reserve, Kandy is also a must-see in Sri Lanka and also classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Last point forming part of the Central Highlands, the forest reserve of Knuckles, located around thirty kilometers northeast of Kandy, would be the last visit before moving into the so-called cultural triangle area.
The cultural triangle, precisely, encompasses an area defined between the cities of Kandy in the South, Polonnaruwa in the East and Anuradhapura in the West, thus forming a triangle where, in addition to its three important cities, other historic sites of the first order are located. To know Dambulla, where the Golden Temple is located (a nickname) and its caves containing thousands of Buddha statues as well as Sigiriya. This site is famous for its ancient fortress on top of a rock, then dominating the region. The latter is nicknamed the Lion Rock because of the imposing lion statue which once stood at the foot of this improbable palace.
But here I am "cheating" a little, because these last two destinations are normally considered to be part of the Central Province, which also includes Kandy moreover, while this section is rather dedicated to the North-Central province. And I come from there then to the other two “points” of the triangle.
First of all Polonnaruwa (also spelled “French” Polonnaruwa), in the West, the former capital of a kingdom that lasted nearly two centuries, between the 11th century and the 13th century. There are ruins spread over 122 hectares with some well-preserved and highlighted temples (the site is also classified Unesco World Heritage, it starts doing that in the list).
Among these ruins, the most iconic are the Vatadage as well as the Lankatilaka Vihara (not to be confused with the still active temple of the same name, dating from the 14th century and located in Kovilakanda, a town 15 km south-east of Kandy). Another major attraction of the ancient city, the Buddha statue sculptures in the rock; Gal Vihara. If you are not planning to see the national park area in the south of the country, then you can head back to the national park of Minneriya, which offers a great alternative in the heart of the cultural triangle.
Finally, you have the ancient city ofAnuradhapura, which was just preceding Polonnaruwa. The city was the political and religious capital of Ceylon for no less than 1 years before being suddenly abandoned after a series of invasions. Although not much remains of the city itself, many temples have survived. Anuradhapura is therefore dotted with stupas giants, some of which are thousands of years old.
The most famous monument being the large Ruwanwelisaya stupa, which, with a height of 103 m and a circumference of 290 m makes it one of the tallest religious monuments in the world. Another temple of importance, or at least, of undeniable charm, the smallest Isurumuniya temple and its Buddha cave. Anuradahpura is also an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists, as it contains a cutting of the Bodhi tree (under which Buddha attained enlightenment more than 2 years ago). Sri Maha Bodhi, the sacred tree is therefore the oldest bodhi tree.
Exceptional places which, as you can imagine, makeAnuradhapura is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We come to the East coast, whose two main cities, Trincomalee et Beat it can be added to your list of destinations. But before that, I must mention the region of the bay ofArugam, further south. From the latter, you can visit the sanctuary of Kudumbigala and national park of Cumana, a less crowded alternative to the park Yala. Cumana was also previously called Yala East, since it is located to the east of the other national park.
Batticaloa is a big city from where you can explore cool reefs and diving spots, but also lounge on its beach or the neighboring one of Kallady. This is also where you will find a popular destination on this coast, Pasikudah. But overall, Batticaloa remains a relatively unvisited region. We visit its market, its lighthouse and a kayak ride on the lagoon is among the activities to do on this coast.
View of the lagoon from Batticaloa Lighthouse. (Photo credit: Condephy)
Trincomalee (often spelled Trincomalee) is a port city located 110 km west of Kandy. Built on a peninsula, you can visit its old fort (Fort Frederick) and its colorful Hindu temples like the Pathirakali Amman Temple and especially that, on the cliff side, of Koneswaram (also referred to as Shaktipeeth Shri Shankari Devi). Note that you have a hot water spring in this area (Kanniya Hot Water Springs). Going up 17 km, you will come across the Nilaveli big beach, quieter than its sister Uppuveli. Another advantage of this beach is that you can go snorkeling at Pigeon Island National Park.
We come to the province in the far north, with Jaffna, its main city, the ancient cultural capital of the Tamils, which is probably the most interesting in this part of the country. In addition to the activity on the harbor, you can take a look at the Jaffna Fort, built in the 17th centurye century by Portuguese merchants. There are also other ruins specific to the collateral damage of the civil war that ravaged the country for 30 years (I can mention the old palace and "old district").
There is also a notable Hindu temple, that of Nallur kandaswamy. The other attraction of this northern tip is the group of islands located to the East. Among these, there is the small Nainativu Island, where several places of worship are concentrated. The most famous being the Nagapooshani Amman Hindu temple. But there are also small Buddhist temples, a mosque and at least one church.
Nallur Kandaswamy Hindu Temple in Jaffna (Photo Credit: Samantha Weerasinghe)
The peculiarity of Jaffna is that it is located on a peninsula, cut off from the rest of Sri Lanka by the Indian Ocean crossing the country from one side to the other. In the north-eastern corner, you will have a strip of sand, not far from Point Pedro.
I will end this chapter by quoting Mannar Island, 2 hours south of Jaffna. Its particularity is to be between Palk Bay and the Gulf of Mannar. With the alignment of small islands and sandbanks in its extension, called Adam's Bridge, it separates the Palk Strait of the Gulf of Mannar, separating the Indian state of Tamil Nadu from the Jaffna peninsula.
Here is a map to locate and summarize all the destinations and places of interest in Sri Lanka:
Before explaining the possible itineraries in more detail, I will tell you about our experience. I want to make it clear in advance that this is a route that will not please everyone, firstly because we missed some "unmissable" sites due to lack of time, but also because we were on the move every day.
Not really a vacation to relax, but we were thirsty for discovery. As we were limited in time, we had to make a choice. In 12 days, it allowed us to have a good overview of the country but I am the first to think that a second stay would not be too much.
The idea during this stay was mainly to focus on the cultural aspect, which is why we mainly focused on the sites of the UNESCO cultural and heritage triangle. We didn't really have a day dedicated to nature, going to see waterfalls or going on safari in one of the recognized parks.
One of the reasons for our visit is that Sri Lanka is a predominantly Buddhist country, with sites of historical importance (The Bodhi Tree of Anuradhapura), who is therefore speaking to Jitima. This is also why the stay was only 12 days, because we had also divided 8 days in India to go and see, among other things, another important Buddhist site, the Bodhgaya temple (place where Gautama Sidartha Buddha attained Enlightenment).
Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
Day 4
Day 5 and 6
Day 7
Day 8
Day 9
Day 10
Day 11
Day 12
Where we went wrong was that given the distances, we said to ourselves on the part Dambulla - Polonnaruwa et Anuradhapura, we could stay at Dambulla as a base point (so there we have slept 3 nights). However, the fact is that there is not much to Dambulla outside the caves. Afterwards, we ended our stay at Sigiriya, it would have been, in the limit, more judicious to simply stay there as a starting point in this case. The goal is ultimately to avoid having to change hotels every day.
On the other hand, what you need to remember is that to make the most of it and add at least one visit to a national park, 15 days is not too much in Sri Lanka.
Over a week, I would say that you should focus on the North-Central part OR do a part of the South and in the mountains. Which would give the idea this:
With an arrival in Colombo, head into the mountains of Kandy, see the Temple of the Tooth, stroll around the lake and join Dambulla see the caves of the Golden Temple. À Sigiriya, take the day to see the Lion Rock and Pidurangala. From here you can spend a day at the national park of Minneriya before finishing a day at the beach at Negombo.
This option is more or less the same as doing the first half of our route. First reach Galle and visit its old town and fort and spend a day to see the surrounding beaches (Unawatuna, Koggala). Go see the tea plantations of Nuwara Eliya from where you can take the legendary train in the mountains to reach Kandy, last stop before returning to Colombo.
This duration allows us to extend what we have been able to do by adding at least one national park and making everything a little less of a challenge.
Columbo (1 night) – Galle (2 nights) – Kataragama (2 nights) – Yala National Park (1 day) – Nuwara Eliya (2 nights) – Kandy (2 nights) – Dambulla (1 night) – Polonnaruwa (1 night) – Sigiriya (2 nights) – Anuradhapura (1 night) – Colombo
I would like to point out that this is not necessarily a "model", and that the length of the nights remains a suggestion of time to spend at each stage, but to be adapted according to your wishes. In order to understand the "logic", and as an example, I spent one night in Anuradhpura, but it is still possible to do the visit in a day from Sigiriya, and therefore spend 3 nights there instead of two. For Kataragama, I indicate two nights, because the first would follow a rest after the travel time from Galle while the second would follow the visit after the day at the park of Yala.
In a month, you should have enough time to get around the country relatively well.
If you add it up, we arrive at 29 nights, so that leaves one or two nights of margin to take into account transport times and/or to stay longer somewhere.
If I have to detail this program a little, after Galle, continue along the beaches, stopping for example at the Midigama beach. Mirissa is also interesting especially if you want to see whales, because yes, you can see whales in Sri Lanka and not just any whales since they are blue whales, the largest mammal on the planet!
Aralutalawa is a base for getting to the Horton Plains, but also many waterfalls and the peak of " World's End ». And speaking of peak, if the climb to the site of Sri Pilgrimage On (Adam's peak) is not an option for you, there may still be the alternative, the Little Adam's Peak from Ella, easier to access.
Sri Lanka has a tropical climate, which is characterized by two distinct seasons, a dry season and a rainy season. We can also distinguish there two monsoon periods, which will water different parts of the country depending on the time of year.
Temperatures are high all year round with variations between 28°C et 34°C on average and minimums between 22°C et 26°C. With peak temperatures between March and June and mildest temperatures between November and January, similar to Thailand.
Of course, the central highlands benefit from milder temperatures due to the altitude. À Nuwara Eliya for example, temperatures generally do not exceed 23°C even in April, one of the hottest months. In July, expect not to even reach the 20°C. The nights are also cool with minimum temperatures at 9°C in January and not much better in June with 13°C.
Due to the presence of two monsoons at two very distinct periods, it will be necessary to target the regions to visit. Best Time to Travel to Sri Lanka will therefore be at the following periods:
Conversely, It is better to avoid the months of October and November which are generally unfavorable for a visit to the island of Ceylon. December as well as January also depending on the location. April / May remains correct in terms of rain but these are months that can be very hot. Finally March and September are also less good because they are a transition period between two seasons.
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Columbo |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
T°C Max | 31 | 31 | 32 | 32 | 31 | 30 | 30 | 30 | 30 | 30 | 30 | 30 |
T°C Min | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 26 | 25 | 25 | 25 | 24 | 23 | 23 |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Rain* | 5 | 5 | 9 | 14 | 16 | 16 | 12 | 11 | 15 | 17 | 15 | 10 |
Sun** | 8 | 9 | 9 | 8 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 7 | 7 |
* Average number of rainy days
** Average daily sunshine (in hours)
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Galle |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
T°C Max | 29 | 30 | 31 | 31 | 30 | 29 | 29 | 29 | 29 | 29 | 29 | 29 |
T°C Min | 22 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 24 | 24 | 24 | 24 | 23 | 22 | 22 |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Rain* | 5 | 5 | 7 | 11 | 12 | 12 | 10 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 14 | 10 |
Sun** | 7 | 8 | 8 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 7 |
* Average number of rainy days
** Average daily sunshine (in hours)
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Nuwara Eliya |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
T°C Max | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 21 | 19 | 18 | 19 | 19 | 20 | 20 | 19 |
T°C Min | 9 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 13 | 13 | 13 | 13 | 12 | 12 | 11 | 11 |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Rain* | 8 | 7 | 8 | 13 | 13 | 16 | 17 | 16 | 15 | 18 | 17 | 15 |
Sun** | 6 | 6 | 7 | 6 | 5 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 5 | 5 |
* Average number of rainy days
** Average daily sunshine (in hours)
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Kandy |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
T°C Max | 27 | 28 | 30 | 30 | 29 | 28 | 27 | 28 | 28 | 28 | 27 | 27 |
T°C Min | 18 | 18 | 18 | 20 | 20 | 20 | 20 | 19 | 19 | 19 | 19 | 18 |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Rain* | 6 | 5 | 8 | 14 | 11 | 15 | 14 | 13 | 13 | 17 | 16 | 14 |
Sun** | 7 | 8 | 8 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 |
* Average number of rainy days
** Average daily sunshine (in hours)
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Polonnaruwa |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
T°C Max | 29 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 33 | 33 | 32 | 32 | 32 | 31 | 30 | 29 |
T°C Min | 23 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 25 | 25 | 25 | 25 | 24 | 24 | 23 | 23 |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Rain* | 6 | 5 | 6 | 9 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 8 | 14 | 15 | 14 |
Sun** | 7 | 8 | 9 | 8 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 |
* Average number of rainy days
** Average daily sunshine (in hours)
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Sigiriya |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
T°C Max | 28 | 30 | 32 | 32 | 32 | 31 | 31 | 31 | 31 | 30 | 29 | 28 |
T°C Min | 21 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 24 | 23 | 23 | 23 | 22 | 22 | 21 |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Rain* | 5 | 5 | 6 | 11 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 9 | 14 | 15 | 13 |
Sun** | 7 | 8 | 9 | 8 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 |
* Average number of rainy days
** Average daily sunshine (in hours)
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Anuradhapura |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
T°C Max | 29 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 33 | 32 | 32 | 32 | 32 | 31 | 30 | 29 |
T°C Min | 22 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 25 | 25 | 25 | 24 | 24 | 23 | 22 |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Rain* | 5 | 4 | 5 | 9 | 7 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 7 | 13 | 15 | 13 |
Sun** | 7 | 8 | 9 | 8 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 |
* Average number of rainy days
** Average daily sunshine (in hours)
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Arugam Bay |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
T°C Max | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 32 | 32 | 32 | 31 | 31 | 31 | 30 | 29 |
T°C Min | 23 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 25 | 25 | 25 | 25 | 24 | 24 | 24 | 23 |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Rain* | 6 | 5 | 5 | 9 | 8 | 7 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 13 | 15 | 12 |
Sun** | 7 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 |
* Average number of rainy days
** Average daily sunshine (in hours)
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Beat it |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
T°C Max | 28 | 29 | 30 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 33 | 33 | 32 | 31 | 29 | 28 |
T°C Min | 24 | 25 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 26 | 25 | 25 | 25 | 24 | 25 | 24 |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Rain* | 13 | 7 | 5 | 8 | 7 | 2 | 4 | 8 | 7 | 16 | 19 | 18 |
Sun** | 7 | 8 | 9 | 9 | 8 | 8 | 7 | 8 | 8 | 7 | 6 | 6 |
* Average number of rainy days
** Average daily sunshine (in hours)
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Trincomalee |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
T°C Max | 28 | 29 | 31 | 33 | 35 | 35 | 34 | 34 | 34 | 32 | 29 | 28 |
T°C Min | 24 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 26 | 26 | 26 | 26 | 25 | 25 | 24 | 24 |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Rain* | 7 | 5 | 4 | 6 | 4 | 2 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 12 | 16 | 16 |
Sun** | 7 | 8 | 9 | 8 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 6 | 6 |
* Average number of rainy days
** Average daily sunshine (in hours)
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Jaffna |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
T°C Max | 28 | 29 | 31 | 33 | 34 | 33 | 33 | 33 | 32 | 31 | 29 | 28 |
T°C Min | 23 | 24 | 25 | 27 | 26 | 26 | 25 | 25 | 25 | 25 | 24 | 24 |
Jan. | Feb. | Mars | Apr. | Mai | June | Jul. | August | Sep. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | |
Rain* | 4 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 1 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 10 | 12 | 10 |
Sun** | 8 | 8 | 9 | 8 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 7 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 6 |
* Average number of rainy days
** Average daily sunshine (in hours)
Banknotes used in Sri Lanka: 20, 50, 100, 500, 1, 000 and finally 2 rupees will be the different denominations that you are likely to come across. The currency is also divided into cents, 25s and 50s cents in piece. You can also find 1, 2 or 5 rupee coins and, since 2010, a 10 rupee coin, which replaced the green note of the same value.
Visa or Mastercard credit cards are generally accepted in cities, but cash is still very often used.
With a current rate of around €1 = 200 Rs The conversion is pretty easy, basically you have to multiply the prices Sri Lankan by 5 to get an idea of the price in euros, ignoring the 3 zeros (For example something at 10 Rs is therefore worth 10 x 5 = €50.
Tourism is booming. So we find a bit of everything there. At the time of our stay, it was still in its infancy and guesthouses lacked “cachet” but I think things are changing.
In hostels, you should be able to find beds for €5 per night (around 1 rupees), so expect to pay €000 per night if there are two of you. If you want more comfort, expect to pay around €10 (from 30 rupees) for a double room.
Below, I summarize the price range for you:
If the meals were not varied enough for our tastes, it was certainly not eating that ruined us in Sri Lanka. On average, we spent around 600 rupees per meal for two (3 €). Even our biggest meals when we had a few nice, more copious dinners cost us barely 10 € for two (1 rupees then).
SOME POINTS OF REFERENCE:
Transport is quite rustic but really not expensive. Ultimately, what costs the most are the multiple uses of the tuk tuk which remain the most practical for getting from one point to another quickly.
Since I am talking about this means of transport, note that there is a tuk tuk rental service, which you can drive yourself (necessary to have a national + international license of course), an original alternative to the classic car rental, to visit the country independently, see on their site here.
Buses are ridiculously cheap even if the comfort is quite basic. The train is also cheap as long as you have 3rd class seats.
Minimum daily budget suggestion / person - 33 € (Note: budget for a mid-budget holiday, with 1* or 2* hotel, otherwise clean guesthouses; meals mainly in simple restaurants and use of public transport for the most part. Some paid visits but not too many).
My articles about my stay in Sri Lanka.
Sri Lanka was not particularly on my list of countries to visit and yet, the opportunity arose
Last stop on our trip to Sri Lanka: a one-day visit to Colombo, between temples, lakes and
To conclude this visit to the cultural triangle, we still had to visit Sigiriya, especially known for its "lion rock",
Anuradhapura was the capital of Sri Lanka for around 1 years before being abandoned following numerous invasions by the
A day exploring Polonnaruwa, the ancient capital of Sri Lanka, to discover its royal remains, temples and remarkable Buddhist statues.
Heading to Kandy bus station on this morning of our 7th day in Sri Lanka. After a ride in
Any opinions, suggestions? Leave me a comment!
16/11/2019